Buying a used boat
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2018
- In this video Paul and I head out to look at a second hand boat he is thinking of buying. It focuses on the things to check on the outboard and the hull as well as the on water test. It also talks a bit about things to think of when choosing the boat you want to buy.
Receipt template: docs.google.com/document/d/1r...
Inspection checklist:
docs.google.com/document/d/1o...
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ADDED TIP - Put the trailer price in the receipt separately (a low $ amount) otherwise you will end up paying Stamp Duty on the full purchase price when you transfer ownership ( April 2021) RTA Tip
Tips for aluminium boats, check for old hooks, swivels and sinkers jammed up against the hull, usually under seats or bracing points. They will induce electrolysis and corrode the hull out very quickly. Also check for longitudinal cracks along the hull, especially near rivets or either side of the keel. Thanks again for a great video Stu!
Thanks Matt. I'll add looking for stray metal to the checklist. :)
Great tip Matthew. It's something I've run into every time I'm in the market for a used aluminum fishing boat.
Even after you buy the boat. I did this *several* times using a hose and probe. The first few times I got some swivels and sinkers. Noticing water didn't flow smoothly past all ribs, some digging with a cable tie (plastic so no scratching) I found a rusty traler hub bearing cap wedged under one rib and a half penny wedged under another.
Great tips and advise Stu. Paul has himself a nice setup. Looks like a great boat. Sorry to hear you haven’t been feeling well. Hopefully the worst is behind you and your feeling better now.
Hey Stu great video as always in the UK we call that receipt a “Bill of Sale” you may or may not have the same thing. theoretically there could be Bills of sale going back to the original sales document when the boat was new. It states the Hull id number the cost and engine serial number/s for a cross check. Love Dangar Marine it’s so informative and down to earth for a regular guy to follow. Keep up the great work Stu....
thanks again all info details evrything !!!!
Glad to see you on the water again! Take your time to get 100% better.
Thanks mate. :)
Love your videos Stu. I have learnt so much from you, its helped me do everything myself on my old 4.5m alloy centre console project boat. The boat was sitting in my shed for years with a buggered motor and i never had the money to do it up. Your channel motivated me to drag it out and start working on it. New floors and carpet, new wiring, new lights, new bilge pump, second hand 50hp four stroke Yamaha to replace the old motor, fix up the trailer all learned from your channel thanks so much for the help. It will be finished soon (as funds allow) and back in the waters off Brisbane just in time for summer can,t wait. Hope you get well soon cheers Peter
Thanks Peter. Glad the vids helped you get your boat fixed up. Only one week till spring! :)
A bit late to comment, however, how did you go with your "renovation"?
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Welcome. :)
Great Video thank you for all of the helpful tips!
Excellent as always. If I ever think of buying a boat I'll refer to this! Sorry to hear you're not too good at the moment. All the best.
Thanks mate.
Thanks for the Video - Good Advice!
Thanks Jack.
Great vid ,, and great advice ,
Great video!
Good Info like always Mate great day..
Thanks Manny! :)
Hi there. I’m a first time boat owner. I’m reaching out to you from Pratt, KS, USA.
Now to the meat and potatoes. I bought a nice 1989 Ranger bass boat recently. The owner started the boat for me prior to purchase. It was a little bit of a bugger for him to get it started and also for him to get a steady stream of water out of the tell-tale. Nadia and I took the boat out to a small lake to familiarize ourselves with our new purchase. I noticed the temperature gauge climbing rather steadily as we slowly traveled out of the no wake zone. I also noticed the no water was coming out of the tell-tale. At idle rpm. The temp got up around 3/4 of the way hot on the gauge. We trailered the boat and took it home. I checked for airflow on the lines on the top side and there were no obstructions. I pulled the leg off last night and when I did so the water uptake tube stayed attached to the pump in the leg. It didn’t stay secured up in the engine. I will add that the leg slid right out without any added persuasion. All the videos I’ve seen where the leg is dropped for impeller replacements, the uptake tube stays secured up in the mid. I’m guessing that I was losing considerable water and pressure because of this lack of tight fit at the top of my uptake tube. My plan is the remove the uptake tube from the pump and reinsert it into the mid. Is there an easy way to do this properly where I’ll get a secure fit and seal or is this a major repair? This may sound dumb, but if my rubber seal or grommet...... whatever was originally used up in the mid is gone or damaged can I use a 1 inch piece of heater hose or fuel hose on the end of the uptake tube that seats into the mid if I find the proper ID and OD?
Thanks!!!
You are a genius, great videos.
Thanks mate.
Wow We Stu; very complete and thorough How to Video. You, in my opinion are D Man on this Boat stuff. I liked that check list. Everything you need to not forget when going looking. I'm waving a hand to Eddie :-) Cheers !!***.
Thanks Angelo, glad you liked it. :)
Awesome video man.
Glad you liked it
Good vid Stu, thanks.
Very welcome
Stu, you're my go-to boat guy, mate. Hope all is well!
great inf thank you
Great video as always. One thing I've found on smaller boats is people putting on any prop they have that fits because they broke one etc. and it's the wrong diameter and/or pitch and then the boat doesn't respond well either rev-ing too high or not enough.
For sure. I it good to get the story from the owner so if it only hits 4000 RPM you can figure out if it is prop or a motor problem.
Hooray !! been waiting for this vid for a while Stu since you and Paul told us about his new beast at the meet up. Great to see you up and about too mate. I actually saw him ripping along in the bowrider 2 weeks ago. He looked happy as Larry.. now his Mrs can enjoy a glass of chardonnay up in the bow with her friends :) Get well soon champion P.S Love the Yammie 2 stroke - quality outfit there
Oh great... now my wife wants me to upgrade mine for a 5.0m Freedom Sport :) haha as they say in the classics...we're gonna need a bigger boat !
Your bill of sale should also read , “ I name, certify that this boat rego an vin # is free of all debts and incumbency “
Fair point.
Good checklist. I haven’t thought of asking to do a full compression check in the past. Might as well ask.
MrCalifornia1234 compression checks should be the 1st operation to test. If you find a low cylinder, you’d be best to move on. Unless he’s throwing it in for free. Then, look for an identical motor that is in good service and use the low compression one for parts.
I'm a bit like you in that I'm shy about asking to really inspect something. I figure if they won't let you do it they are probably hiding something about the motor and you are best to just move on.
Dangar Marine Hey Stu, I used to be hesitant also, but there’s nothing wrong with calling people out if they’re advertising their product. Few of us are millionaires that work on our own engines. So MONEY & MY TIME I take seriously. If I’m on the phone asking for a serial number and get put off, then I take it as a blessing and move on. I’ve known about as many dishonest boat-motor mechanics as I’ve known honest ones. Hence, I do as much work personally as I feel comfortable with. But I give the honest ones as much business as I can send them, whether from myself or felllow boaters.
Something I do that you didn't mention. During the on the water test is to check the alignment. Center the tiller and check that it dose not track to the right or left
Sorry to hear you have been under the weather, Stu. I hope you're feeling better now.
Thanks mate, slowly on the mend.
welcom back man
Thanks!
The good old 800000 rpm idle, had to chuckle even though I understood him perfectly well.
11:40
800 1000 RPM right? LOL I caught that too ;-)
BrianRDub yes, it still sounded funny to the ear haha
Great tips and advise and for anybody buying a newer rig in hopes of getting a 'transferable warranty', be careful and do your homework. Not all but many boat manufacturers offer Transferable warranties that may include the second owner. Just keep in mind that these transferable warranties are written by lawyers!! The biggest back door escape for a boat manufacturer on a second owner transferred warranty claim is if the first owner performed any upgrade work or in some cases routine maintenance themselves rather than paying the manufacturer or dealership for even minor upgrade installs as simple as a rod holder and/or simple maintenance work.
Some boat manufacturers are pretty honorable when it comes to warranties and others not so much. If a warranty is something you'd like in your purchase of a second hand or new boat read that warranty especially the release of liability section and the guarantee section.
Wow sorry to hear about the kidney stones Stu. I've had my gallbladder removed after a painful blockage and I understand the kidney stones are just as painful. Good on ya for a complete recovery mate.
Good point about warranties if you are buying a second hand boat that isn't too old. Well worth reading the fine print first!
Good tips and advice another point to make note is if boat is equipped with EPIRB or GPS is to ask for registration papers so can change ownership details etc keep up good work 😀😀🤗
Great point Mark, I'll add that to the document too.
Paul got the Dangar Stu warranty. :)
One thing I might add if I may, is more times than not you can purchase a boat, motor, and trailer for very close to the same price as you could buying a used outboard. Then you would have to either install it yourself, (mount, controls, etc) and you would have to have it installed (which most of us would have to do if it is a larger motor with steering and controls). I know in my case , I just recently had the lower part of the driveshaft break in my old 1987 nissan. Only parts you could possibly hope to find there are used at someone's boat/motor salvage yard or extremely rare in my case someone still has one they are parting out. The part /parts journey was unsuccessful for me and I opted to strip down everything of value that I possibly may use later on the next boat, after looking hard for a reasonably priced used outboard of comparable size. No luck there, so I stripped my old rig down of anything I thought I might use at some time on the next boat , and I found a boat , motor, and trailer that I thought was in really good condition(1998 seaark bass boat with 115hp johnson) and was priced what I thought was a very reasonable price. The difference here is you can still get parts for my motor for the most part if needed.
And I know that is not always the case if you are someone that works on outboards. Often times someone may come in want to upsize their horsepower or go to a more modern fuel injection, or a 4 stroke motor, and you may be able to buy their old outboard which may be in good condition cheap.
So just a perspective from the non outboard mechanic or non outboard or non boat dealer side of things.
Again you have an excellent video here on things to look for , but just wanted to put it how it may be for guys like me.
Thanks Stu, and stay well!!!
Hey mate. It's definitely important to know the new price of anything you are thinking about buying. Without that information you don't know whether it is a good deal or not. I find a similar thing with auctions. People often presume something must be cheap because it is an auction but bidding can climb over new price if you aren't careful.
Your videos are great and helpful and your english is easily to understand. Thank you👍cheers from Germany
Thanks Jürgen! :)
Video came at a good time. I purchased my first boat last weekend. 5.1m Savage with 75hp Merc 2 stroke. Good things to test. Unfortunately I didn't have a compression test tool. I hope to get ti the once over at mechanic just for my piece of mind.
Congrats on the new boat. :)
Nidz, it's been two years now - how's your experience been?
Stu, as usual, excellent video. I can't tell you how much your videos have helped with my second hand boat. I bought a boat with that same exact engine as in this video and found a 2 cycle oil leak later on. Any ideas where to start to fix it? The only good thing about it is that currently, the motor will NEVER corrode 😉 but I would like to fix it...
Hi Erik. With a problem like that I would give the motor a good degrease and then run it for a brief amount of time so you can see where the oil is coming from. Once you know you the source of the leak you can think about what you need to do to fix it.
Your page is great. Do you have a video on 2 strike oil pumps. I see some say oil pump but was unsure if hey are for 2 stroke or 4. Currently I have a Suzuki dt150 and am unsure if my boat is getting oil or if the pump is bad.
Thanks Stu - looking for a 4.5m half cabin (anyone?) so useful episode. Hope you are feeling better soon mate and wondering if you ever found that Renko's anchor?
Great video Stu! IF the boat has a trolling motor that's something to check out, especially if it's a newer unit. The new ones are EXPENSIVE! The new models with anchor lock cost more that my whole boat!
Good point Jim. Well worth making sure it is working properly while you are out on the water.
sorry mate.. not at all, I didn't mean anything negative..my apologies :)
@@markolav7017 I apologize if I jumped the gun. At times Its hard to tell if someone is being serious or just playing around (sarcastic) by reading comments without talking in person to get the vibe of the conversation. What you said was funny😁, but I thought you were being serious. Us dumb Americans take things too serious sometimes! I didn't know you were friends with Stu. If I did, I should have seen the joke coming and laughed!
All good my friend..I just thought I would throw in the old "cup holder" gag as Stu mentioned these great features during the Green Machine restoration. I should have explained myself. Yes, trolling motors are ridiculously expensive and well worth checking that they actually work during the test run. If not, may be another good bargaining tool to get the overall boat price down :)
Quinnies of certain vintage had an issue with electrolysis between the the stringers and hull. A mate had perforations after 2 years! I believe the alloy used wasn't great but was needed to be ductile enough for stretch forming the millenium hulls. Corrosion resistance wasn't great.
Excellent tips Stu. Hope your feeling better!!! A friend of mine who had kidney stones for years swears by Chanca Piedra. You might look at the reviews on it.
Interesting, I'd never heard of it. I'll have to grab some!
@@DangarMarine another thing you can do, Stu, is drink plenty of lemonade. The citric acid will dissolve stones. Add whiskey to offset the lemon flavor!
Cherry juice and dried cherries and plenty of water. I love my brews but actually don't help! I moved to hard seltzer which is zero sugar and zero yeast and it helped. Used to get horrendous gout but figured out from yeasty beers and of all things mussels which I flicking love but having a foot twice it's normal size and a breath of air feeling like a knife ain't worth it. Kidney stones similiar. Haven't had those yet but heard it's a near death experience. Best from Hawaii. Love your channel. Ran a 19 ft Glasspro 30 miles offshore for years with an 88 Johnson and then twin 60 yammys. Caught loads of pelagics. At 60 I don't think I could do what I did at 35. Boat owners of smaller vessels need to understand the physicality of offshore fishing if not a commercial old salt. You may be better off chartering once a month with friends.
Always told my fish recipients probably the most expensive tuna Mahi and wahoo they ever ate!
But if a good calm lagoon like I had in the RMI you could load an Esxi in a few hrs with minimal expense albeit grouper snapper trigger and such. But nothing like offshore and a big ahi or marlin peeling line. Wish I was 35 again.
Hello Dangar studios! I’ve watched all your vids and as an avid fisherman up here in Canada I’ve always found them super informative. I wonder could you do a video on your thoughts regarding aluminum vs fiberglass hulls.
Kindly
Buck
Hi Buck. Aluminium hulls have good abrasion resistance and can take knocks against rocks, other boats etc better. Fibreglass hulls are very strong in the water though and are generally heavier and therefore more comfortable in choppy waters. Aluminium hulls tend to slap against the waves because they are so light which can make them uncomfortable.
Dangar Marine - I liked your video. One of the last things you touched on at the end of your video was documentation. Being from the USA, Specifically Texas. It is very important to first check to see if the person trying to sale the boat actually is the owner of the boat. Texas is one of the toughest and strictest states of all 50 states when it comes to buying a used boat and being able to legally document and then being able to transfer the ownership from the old owner to the new owner. All boat registered in the USA have registration numbers assigned to them, First 2 letters of the registration are for the abbreviation of the state the boat was last titled in example TX for Texas. The next 4 numbers are followed by a series of 2 alpha letters. An example would be ( TX 1234 AA ) This is an example only. All to many times since Texas is a Gulf Coast State. You can find a lot of used boats for sale. Unfortunately all to many times the person selling the used boat, has obtained the boat in such a way which does not all them to properly title the boat in there name. Especially when it comes to Texas. So when in Texas looking for a used boat. The first thing to do is get the registration numbers I talked about, and reach out to the Texas Parks and Wildlife. You can call them or go on there web site and with the title numbers off the boat you are looking to purchase. This site will tell you whom is the legal owner of the Boat and Motor. Does the Boat and Motor have a lien holder? When was the Boat and Motor last titled. Note: both the Boat and the Motor (Outboard Only) required Titled. The Titling of Outboard Motors was included because of the high incident of Outboard Motors being stolen off the back of a boat while being trailered Since the registration is good for only 1 year this can tell you how long ago the boat may have been last used. Note: Titling just shows proof of ownership. Registration gives the person holding the Title of the Boat and Motor the right to Register the boat to be able to use it in the water of the state you are registering the boat in. Also if the boat comes with a trailer as it did in your video. This trailer will also have to be registered and issued plates, so as to be able to tow the boat and trailer on the road ways.
All to many times while looking for a used boat for sale. I have run across the person trying to sell the boat thinks they own the boat and has the right to sell it. When after checking with the state, I find out that the person I have been dealing with is not the person registered as the owner. This then makes for a very uncomfortable next call to the person trying to sale the boat.
I once was looking at a boat for sale and after following up with the State. I realized the person selling the boat was not the titled owner of the boat. The State gave me the name of the titled owner and I was able to track this person down. I confirmed they were the owner of this boat. It turned out the both the person try to sell the boat and the real owner both lived within 15 miles of my location. I gave true owner the information on how to get in contact with the person trying to sell the boat he did not own. The actual owner of the Boat was able to reclaim his boat after having been lost for over 11 years.
Yup, kinda the same in Ohio. Boat needs a clear Ohio title if outboard it also needs a clear Ohio title the trailers just need to be weighed and a slip issued for registration. More than a few time iv come into people not having titles in there names to avoid paying the taxes I always pass in them. Ohio is very very difficult to get a title for something. They also won't release the current owners name without getting an attorney to file paperwork to try and track them down. It's crazy. A lot of people sell outboards without titles because they don't need registered in Ohio for any type of numbering on the motor, but it is a felony to buy something that has a title without getting the said title with it. No thank you to a felony for a boat motor lol
Also check strapping on boat I had one I bought for the motor and trailer that had dry rotted straps in back an it slid off on the way home. Luckily a bunch of people helped pick it up and got it back on the trailer. Now I bring my own and strap with them 😂 It was a crazy thing at the time but all I could do was laugh when it happened 😂
Yep, definitely a good thing to check! No safety chain to the stem?
Nope ripped the hook right out of the bow spun the winch so fast it broke the crank handle off. Was so crazy 😂 happened on a major highway. Thank goodness for good people who helped me. It's a. Good story now lol
Good vid stu.. I would of bought it just for the briggs winch setup!! Can you PLEASE do a vid on the winch?? So friggin cool...
One day!
@@DangarMarine stellar! Cant wait!!
Again how do you change the 2 stroke engine oil?
How should one consider engine hours?
Yeah I laughed when you said about the wheel falling off because that’s exactly what happened to me 🥴what good came of it was the seller was towing it for me so he gave me my money back and got the wheel back on got it to mine and apologised and left as you can imagine I was in shock so I forgot to get a receipt 🥴😬😢 it all happened in the uk.
Ah, it can happen. :)
hi Dangar Marine...would you mind doing a video about changing anode zinc on Johnson outboard?
Will definitely be doing an anode video before too much longer.
Hi Stu, alls good with my stuff now but have a console switch question? To the Rh side there is 4 switches and can read 3 of them being an older boat. One is the bilge, one is the fishwell, and one is the curtousy light. Last one dont have a clue? One guy asked if it's the nav lights but it's on the Lh side of the console by the horn. Got any ideas. Its stock not a add on. Thanks
Not sure what it on the stock boat, but given there is a fishwell installed it could have been a sounder, seems like a logical grouping. If it was me I would stick my head under the dash and see which way the wires head.
Over 20 years ago I sold my 4.1mt tinny , was a great spearing / fishing boat but was starting to get too many stress cracks , you'd get the cracks TIG welded and it would crack somewhere else , I'd point out the hull has professionally welded and water tight but how long til another crack occurs for the new owner ? Not sure I'd buy an aluminium boat over 15yrs old again .
That 90hp 4 stroke Mercury sounded great.
Just regarding compression tests , not every seller that wouldn't agree to it may not be hiding anything , he / she might be uncomfortable with a stranger stuffing it up , eg stripping sparkplug threads in the cylinder head. Internal corrosion would be my biggest concern with buying a used outboard but thats not something you can easily check ....
I would hope that a potential buyer has done their homework as far as knowing about the expected ride of the boat before calling the seller. You should already know how a particular boat rides and if it is too tender on the roll for you without wasting the sellers time. I would be hesitant to give any seatrials without an offer and deposit for purchase.
In the US, most recreational boats are fiberglass composite. Also most of these boats spend more than 50% their life on a trailer and stored in the open. Frequently, they are not covered properly and rain/snow gets in and rots the floor/stringer/transom from the inside out. This is difficult to detect without multiple core samples or a good moisture meter.
Yes, checking a fibreglass hull probably deserves a whole video on its own right.
You should also check the gearcase oil
Yes, it's on the list but I forgot to mention we didn't check it on this outboard because it had been changed the day before during a major service so it wouldn't have told us much.
Hey Stu I have an older Suzuki 2 stroke and I have a slight bend in the shaft, is it possible to straighten it? Have you got any videos on doing it. Motor still has high compression and runs fine.
I've very had a go at straightening a bent shaft, but you aren't the first person to ask. I think it would make a great video so I might find an old prop shaft, bend it and then do a vid on straightening it. It can be a bit hit and miss though so you may be better off replacing yours with a spare part.
I don't like bank cheques as being foolproof. Since colour printers plenty been caught high and dry
Good one mate! Nice to see Paul in that one, he’s looking well. Did his checklist include adequate comfy seating for girls in bikinis? Gotta be fit for purpose after all..
Hey Dayne. Unfortunately there were only two seats so the bikini girls are going to have to sit on our laps. Damn! ;)
I'd call that "very well researched" :)
When will we see the engine alignment and setup on the shock mounts ????
In a week or so.
Don't know about in Australia, or even other states, but here in California, you're taxed on the price of the boat (and trailer) when purchased. I get separate receipts for the boat, motor, and trailer so am only paying the taxes on the actual purchase price. Some states have a property tax that includes boats (and motorhomes, I think) so this may not be beneficial, even if feasible.
RichE
It looks like we have a flat rate for registration transfer on boats ($32) but when you do pay stamp duty it is a good idea to get separate receipts keep the cost down. I like that idea.
Lol... "what's left of Dangar Stu..." I don't follow Instabook or Facegram, so I'm that guy who doesn't seem to be up to speed on whatever it may be... But hopefully it's nothing serious ! Some excellent pointers and things to consider when buying a boat and/or motor.
Stu was in the hospital for kidney stones. I dont have facebook or any other social media(only RUclips). But I was able to see it on Instagram. Facebook wont allow you to see unless you join up. Well wishes to Stu and I'm sure he will be A-OK!
Nothing serious Stan, just painful. I'll live. :)
Then Yamahas have horrible corrosion issues around the exhaust side plate and head into cylinder... Alka Seltzer motors in salt
23 ft. pro line walk around pretty heavy boat.
Welcome back ! What happen to the boat build?
I need to wait until I get a stent removed again before I am able to lift a sheet of plywood.
We could organise a working bee Stu to help with all that marine ply :)
Outboard check: Check the condition of the gear oil, check for discoloration of the cylinders/heads as a sign she got hot. Make sure the engine is cold for your compression test. Love the videos! Makes me much more confident in working on my own boats
Why would you want the engine cold, other than you won't burn your hands? Coming from an automotive/4 stroke world, you always wanted to do the compression test at operating or near. Also all plugs out for testing, and throttle/carb(?) full open.
RichE
Ah, I actually forgot to mention that the reason we didn't check the gearbox oil is that it had been changed the day before during a full service.
Hey Stu quick question for you, I bought a 87 30 hp Nissan forom a guy and he sent me a video of it running and it started up good , so I bought it put it on my boat and it wouldn't idle or stall when I try to put it in gear in the water. once I got it in gear it wouldn't get over 1500 rpm at wot so I cleaned the carb and made sure the fuel pump was working,no difference ,did a compression test and top cyl. Has 135 psi and bottom has like 15. Do you think it could have a stuck ring from sitting for a year any input would be great really disappointed it doesn't run the way the guy said it did, thanks
Hunter lauzon If the compression is that low on the one cylinder, I’m surprised it idles at all. You might have a gummed up ring( or too much ash ). There are various cleaners that you can spray or let soak in that cylinder and eventually slowly hand turn the flywheel in the proper direction(usually clockwise). I hope you get lucky. Can you get a gun barrel light to feed into that cylinder and get a look at the piston dome? That might show something?? Really hope the best for you.👍
Thanks for helping out Reid, always appreciated. :)
Figured out it was a blown head gasket
Is there any suggestions about what kind of (mpg) should this 200 hp. yamaha 1992 new plugs, all 3 carbs rebuilt. compression is good for all 6 cylinders. idle is set at 1000 rpm. throttle goes to 4500 to 5000 and planes up about 30 knots,..I need some idea of how many miles offshore can 20 gallons do.?
Not sure unfortunately. Because the hull can make a huge difference I would take it for some test runs under the sea conditions and you expect to be boating in and then stick to the rule of thirds - one third out, one third back and one third reserve.
Mr. Dangar what brand of outboard do you recommend say in the fifty HP category?? Thanks so much for the outstanding videos!!!
Hi Stu, I am thinking of buying a late 1970s fletcher speed boat with an Evinrude V4 engine of the same vintage. The boat and engine appear to have very well looked after and are in good condition and running order. But, I was wondering what your opinion would be on running something like that - is it likely to be very unreliable? - parts for the engine difficult to get? etc. Thanks as always for your videos and help.
If it has been looked after those old Evinrudes can run for a long time.
@@DangarMarine Thanks, what would you say about parts availability? I'm concerned that it's going to be very difficult to get parts for it?
MarineEngine.com should be able to supply parts for you.
People do not tell the truth for sure at times.Not all sellers will let you do checks I'm sure.I bought my older outboard and I should of known the guy was not being honest.Nicest BS'er I ever met.I really did not do any checks.It ran good on muffs.Asked about lower gear oil and he said it was changed "at some Point".Bought motor for top dollar (think he made a lot of money off me)and went home and no lower gear oil other than two tablespoons of sludge.After three changes it went from black to clean looking oil and luckily so far have not had shifting or other issues with it in the two years I have had it..
not only a reciept or bill of sale check for titles registrations and tranferability. my boy bought a boat in another state (20 miles away) with a trailer. was able to transfer the boat over but in that state the boat registration covered the trailer but our state doesnt. they need to be titled seperately. since the trailer was never titled and was more than a year old the manufacturer would not supply a certificate of origin to get a title.(original lost) so in order to get one from the state you must go through hoops to get one. it would be easier and cheaper to buy a used one with good title IF you can find one. lesson learned.
Ah, interesting scenario. In Australia all trailers are registered separately but I can see how you would get caught out with that.
yes trailers with dmv and boat with fish and boat commision crazy and now they've implemented titles for outboard motors cuz so many are being stolen
Stu didn't mention that if you keep a record of the title checks you do on the government website (it is only a registered loan/encumbered item check) and you keep a copy, even if the item is later found to be encumbered, you are covered from any action from lawyers/police. Not doing that 10 minute/$15 check is a stupid thing not to do. Australia is also working towards a common set of road rules for the whole country. There are still some differences, J turns in Victoria for example, and a LOT of police officers who's knowledge is way out of date or a misinterpretation of the new road rules, but we are getting there. But it also means fines and demerit points incurred in one sate will come off your home state license.One thing Stu didn't cover is trailer brakes, when required, how to check them. And if they are electric, make sure you have compatible brake controller fitted to your car before moving the trailer/boat anywhere.
Need some help fix the key switch on a Johnson boat I do not know were the wires go on the key switch is there a diagrams on were to the wires on the key switch what color go were on the switch
www.criboats.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Outboard-Wire-Colors.pdf
I wish you lived in the us near me lol I have a Johnson 70 that no one can figure out I’m very mechanically inclined but this thing has me completely lost lol
Two Landie nuts or was the Series 1 Paul’s too?
Paul is a Landcruiser man, the Defender was borrowed from Dave.
What vehicle is Paul driving?
vw bug or ford escort clearly
I may be missing something ... but, why so many aluminum hulls in a salt water environment? Why not more fiberglass hulls?
Aluminium tends to be more rugged for beaching etc, and usually cheaper. Aluminium is self oxidising.
And where Stu is, there are a lot of rocks. Rocks and fiberglass don't mix well at all, aluminum is more likely to deform.
RichE
easier to weld aluminum and get a good sturdy lasting repair. not so with fiberglass. and over time fiberglass gets brittle.
As RichE said, for us is all about the way the boats are used. They are run up on beaches, banged against rocks, tied up overnight against wharf piles and other boats. Fibreglass just doesn't last under those conditions.
Hum? So he went with the Mercury rather than the Yamaha. I own a similar 3cyl (85hp) Yammy it's a 1993 model. I have owned it for 14yrs, it had a total of 161 hrs when I acquired. Other than replacing the the props shaft seals, and the occasional impeller, the motor has been 100% at performing. It has been mounted on a dual console 17' Key West from the original owner. I've been a Mercury fella since 1977, owned a couple johnsons & Evinrudes. Currently my arsenal consists of 3, 25hp mercs(tillers), 2, 115hp 4 cyl merc's, 1, 115hp merc 6cyl (tower of power), a pair of 200hp, 2.5 cyl ( carbed Merc's), a 4hp Johnson & a 15hp Yamaha. But by far & away, both the yamahas ( 85hp ,15hp ) are the most reliable, HANDS DOWN! Merc's switch boxes are a sore spot in their makeup, along with the oil-mix system MAINLY ON THE V6's. All three of my certified mechanic friends agree to disconnect that system & pre mix by hand. It's a stupid design with the nylon gear driven by a steel worm gear. I just don't see that much advantage with the 4 stroke merc over the 2stroke Yamaha. Plus added weight with the 4stroke. Yeah, it maybe a bit newer, but as my mechanics advised me, I'll be paying them a whole lot more to do repair work to the 4 stoke when compared to the two stroke Yamaha. But hey, why listen to me when I'm talking 'UP' about yamahas when I mostly own mercs!!☺️☺️☺️ Great channel Stu👍
Hi,I also own Yamaha 85hp,what were your compresion readings,regards from Serbia
No, he mentioned this was a different, but similar boat and different engine.
RichE
120PSI on each cylinder.
Switch boxes? Its not 1960 anymore! Mercury is shit though, especially their mid size 2-strokes. Yamaha 70-90 is the best two stroke ever built in that size category. Mercs 4-strokes 40hp and up is also made by Yamaha, its not until they started their verado series that they have a own head developed, and..... its shit aswell! The only good engine that mercury ever built is the 2-stroke 2.5L EFI engine. Same goes with yamahas best 2-stroke, the 3.1L EFI engine. 4-strokes is also much cheaper to maintain if your not retarded and need to send it away for a service. You can run 3000-5000 hours without any problem with more or less just basic maintanence. In this time you have to rebuild your 2-stroke about 5-10 times.
Obsoletefreedom It May not be the 60’s, but they are still called switchboxes according to Marine Engines website. The diagram shown for a 1999 200hp describes it as a switchbox.
As an added note, their added Idle Speed control module is yet another headache if it goes haywire. It caused one of my 94’, 2.5l 200hp carbed to burn up two pistons and a breakdown to remedy & get it back in proper order. So the twin to it was removed before it had the chance to call up the gremlins..
What boat do I need to drink heavily on?👍👊🤯❤️😷😀👍
What do you mean "what's left"?
Been sick, I'll live.
I'm sorry I missed that. I hope you are feeling better by now. If not, then soon.
How about inspecting for an internally or visible cracked block? Are pro mechanics allowed to test drive boats under repair or for sale without all licenses and safety gear in place? Do you carry a boat mechanic ID card for the cops? (It's a big deal in Chicago.)
Bruce Wagenberg you don’t need much, Chicago seems strict, in Maine you need fire extinguisher And life jackets depending on the length, and anybody over 12 can drive any non commercial boat
You wouldn't be exempt from life jacket laws so you would definitely need to check they were onboard before heading off. You may get away without the boat being registered given it is a test drive but you'll probably need to be convincing. ;)
Misread title as 'buying a second boat'
Fixed it now, second hand should be one word!
Reckon you may need to change your brand of beer.
Just sent an inquiry to Marineengine.com , added that I got their info from you.
That "Coopers causes kidney stones" headline was fake news. ;)
Thanks for the mention!
If you're not to suffer illness or injury on your boat, you should always drink the beer recommended by the manufacturers of your hull/outboard.
Acceptable beverages will be listed in the user manual under "Recommended lubricants".
Ignore this specification by using cheap, inferior alternatives and your essential operating systems could experience accelerated wear and tear, and may incur catastrophic damage.
You have been warned!
Bank cheques aren't worth the paper they are written on, there is nothing stopping a buyer handing over a bank cheque as payment for a boat, or anything else for that matter, taking possession of the boat, driving straight to the bank & saying He has lost that bank cheque, please cancel it & can I have my money back which the bank will gladly do. Meanwhile, the seller deposits the bank cheque into His or Her's bank account none the wiser & 48 hours later its dishonoured as a cancelled cheque by the issuing bank & the boat is long gone, it's a scam that's going around, one scammer even brought His kids to the boat buy. Direct deposit into your bank account or cash only, direct deposit is best even if the seller has to open a bank account the same as the buyers bank, then it's cleared instantly.
compression tests are useless, use a boroscope
Great video!
Caution with bank cheques when selling. They can be cancelled. Go to the bank and do a funds transfer.
David Love absolutely right, either cash or “cleared funds” as an ex broker/new boat sales guy this is rule number one.... also if it seems too good (cheap) to be true it probably is....
Bank cheques can't be cancelled in australia
Yes, in Australia you either need to return the cheque or jump through many hoops to prove it has been lost or stolen.
Bank cheques can be cancelled in Australia, ANZ will cancel a bank cheque on some ones word I found out from staff at a branch when I was opening an account in 2017.