as a fellow 3d printer user and designer i applaud this, one small consideration: i'd use the safety position when the body and the fuse are aligned, Arming it will make the cap offcentered and more visually and sensory (handling awareness) easier without looking at it. I don't know if this can be implemented in the future versions. Buying this. thumbs up! pew pew!
I don't know if there's enough clearance but from my paper craft days I've learned to wrap sandpaper around an external thread with the grit facing out, then starting to thread it into an internal thread. The sandpaper conforms to the groove and will sand off a hard to reach internal thread. Obviously if there's not enough clearance it just binds.
Epic video, after assembling 3 of these and having 1 fail, this video showed me what I was missing during assembly. Have ordered a tap set and gonna get the printer running again. Going to buy the MOLLE clip to support you further. Have tossed them 3 time in game but yet to get a kill, gonna make it happen this Sunday! Cheers dude
Thanks mate, really appreciate it. If It means anything, I've only got 1 kill out of a lot of throws. I'm crap at throwing and often completely miss the target.
Thanks for the video, I noticed I was doing a couple of things wrong... will start testing as soon as I have some spare time. I just need to add that this video should have been made and released with the first grenade or at least with the twist version of it =)
I have printed and assembled this and it works amazing though im wondering youve said you can blow 2 toy caps at once, how does it work do you need two cap cartridges stacked on top of eachother?
Brilliant, although if I did say that I don't know why. Using 2 loaded carriages at once can be a little patchy, so I recommend using one loaded carriage at a time. Maybe I meant individual caps rather than the whole ring. Long story short use only 1 ring at a time for the best results. Need to test if 2 rings would be louder at some point but I suspect diminishing returns.
Where did you get the pack of springs from ? Only ones i can get sre from over seas. Also would it be best to order them at 35mm then they already to size
The issue with ordering them to 35mm is you need the cut end to rest on the step of the fuze. So if you cut the end off the 35mm spring it may be too short to reliably fire. The springs I use are also from abroad, but they're the best ones and I order loads. I'll get a link for you when I'm back home.
@@FulcrumAirsoft i do understand why it is done, but its just a eye sore in my opinion, and since where i live a spoon version isnt allowed the twist is only way to go about it
as a fellow 3d printer user and designer i applaud this, one small consideration: i'd use the safety position when the body and the fuse are aligned, Arming it will make the cap offcentered and more visually and sensory (handling awareness) easier without looking at it. I don't know if this can be implemented in the future versions. Buying this. thumbs up! pew pew!
i just realized that's the way is designed :) my bad sorry
I don't know if there's enough clearance but from my paper craft days I've learned to wrap sandpaper around an external thread with the grit facing out, then starting to thread it into an internal thread. The sandpaper conforms to the groove and will sand off a hard to reach internal thread. Obviously if there's not enough clearance it just binds.
Epic video, after assembling 3 of these and having 1 fail, this video showed me what I was missing during assembly. Have ordered a tap set and gonna get the printer running again. Going to buy the MOLLE clip to support you further. Have tossed them 3 time in game but yet to get a kill, gonna make it happen this Sunday! Cheers dude
Thanks mate, really appreciate it. If It means anything, I've only got 1 kill out of a lot of throws. I'm crap at throwing and often completely miss the target.
What size bolt have you used? M5x100mm or 150mm?
@bryeif M5x50 roofing bolt
Thanks for the video, I noticed I was doing a couple of things wrong... will start testing as soon as I have some spare time. I just need to add that this video should have been made and released with the first grenade or at least with the twist version of it =)
I have printed and assembled this and it works amazing though im wondering youve said you can blow 2 toy caps at once, how does it work do you need two cap cartridges stacked on top of eachother?
Brilliant, although if I did say that I don't know why. Using 2 loaded carriages at once can be a little patchy, so I recommend using one loaded carriage at a time. Maybe I meant individual caps rather than the whole ring. Long story short use only 1 ring at a time for the best results. Need to test if 2 rings would be louder at some point but I suspect diminishing returns.
@@FulcrumAirsoft Nevermind, i confused the "minimum of 2 caps recommended" in the description of the grenade as using 2 whole toy caps lol
Brilliant will check out the website
Good guide!
80% in Cura isn't putting supports on the threads. Whats the best support settings for the threads? :) awesome print btw
Try 60 degrees. 80 may be too much. Just had a look on Cura.
Il give it a go thanks :D I only got my 3D printer last week so I'm still learning ahah
Where did you get the pack of springs from ?
Only ones i can get sre from over seas.
Also would it be best to order them at 35mm then they already to size
The issue with ordering them to 35mm is you need the cut end to rest on the step of the fuze. So if you cut the end off the 35mm spring it may be too short to reliably fire.
The springs I use are also from abroad, but they're the best ones and I order loads.
I'll get a link for you when I'm back home.
@@FulcrumAirsoft yeah that's true. Tbh I ordered some springs from china that are 40mm so I'll be able to cut to size.
i love the design and idea, but i really dislike the offset in the twist head, is there any chance there is a model that doesnt have that?
I can look at making a twist head version which isn't offset. I deliberately offset it to minimise the components needed.
@@FulcrumAirsoft i do understand why it is done, but its just a eye sore in my opinion, and since where i live a spoon version isnt allowed the twist is only way to go about it
@@FulcrumAirsoft dont want to sound impatient, but have you taken a loot at it😅
printed on an BambuLab, the twist ring is very loose. it arms with gentle shaking.
Might be worth downsizing the ring ever so slightly in your slicer
I also have a bambu, have you tried making it smaller yet. If so what size did you go with ?
@@jamieprice3016 yes, only ring -2%. No part needs support on the bambu
Any chance to modify this to fit snaps/mega snaps firecrackers?
People have told me that Mandarin snaps can be wedged in without the carriage and Will fire.
@@FulcrumAirsoft just bought the files. TY my man.
@AlvarezAdrian1 Thank you very much mate. Let me know how you get on!
My m110 spring is segmented, will it still work?
As in a non-linear spring? Yes, cut to the same length. The linear springs do seem better though.
What screw size for lid?
Also would like to know what screw size you used 🙈 m2 ?
@serimar @nielsclement5671 M2.5x8mm Phillips self tappers.