How to fix rough idle and engine stalling on KEJetronic I6 and V8 Benz W124 W126 R107
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This video is about how to fix rough idle and engine stalling on KEJetronic I6 and V8 Benz W124 W126 R107. Please also see MBCA's video with Pierre explaining in great detail how to fix engine not starting, stalling, running rough, high idle, erratic idle, sudden power loss, running well one day and not the other. • MBCA & Pierre Hedary P...
KE Jetronic is a really cool fuel injection system - if it works right.
My name is MoeRalee. I have a 1990 300SL Convertible Roadster and I'm going to start following you so that I can educate myself with the knowledge that you are making known throughout your videos. Thanks you so much
That is a nice car and cool engine. Good luck!
Thanks for all of your videos. A daily driver W126 has been kept on the road because of you.
Glad it helped and that you like it.
Give it a try here first please for the benefit of others.
Yeah same here until now. W126 300sel. Parked it for a few weeks to replace the tie rods and then I took it out again and the car has rough idle, jerks when its picking up speed, only starts in neutral and loss of power. Also whenever I put it in drive it takes like 7 Seconds to click in and start driving. Love the car til death and I don't want to kill it. It's still In pretty good shape...
@@poisondaddy did you find out what fixed yours? I’m having this issue too - only start in neutral and dies out immediately. Rpm’s don’t move
I AGREES
Wow. The first test worked perfectly for me. 81' 380sl that had an idle too low and would die. Especially in higher heat. This allowed me to adjust perfectly about 800rpm for a smooth purr. Thanks for the vid.
Yeah, most techs have mistaken this screw for an idle control one and it is only for adjusting the idle mix.
Stray, great video, well done, no sugar coating, easy to understand.
Maybe you can lead me into the right direction here. Car, 1985 MB 500sel (w126/cal. car), I have replaced most every piece of engine rubber and tubing, idle control unit, Overload Relay, plugs, distributor cap, coil, fuel pump filter, etc.
Car starts hard (have to give just little pedal or it takes much longer), idles rough BUT when you hit the gas it runs smooth as silk. Take your foot of pedal and it idles at around 600 rough. Sometimes it will die after taking the foot off, but usually it will drop idle down to below 500 then come back up to 600+.
This has been going on for some time now, love the car, but this issue is very puzzling to say the least. What do you think. Oh, I also adjusted the screw.
You have a K Jetronic car and one the CA emission version. My MBCA colleague Pierre Hedary did cover this version in a video where he went over the function as well as most common issues with that system. ruclips.net/video/_G5qLK5qlXc/видео.html I can only offer an opinion from remote. My hunch is that this could be the idle control unit (should be mounted to the firewall) or it could also be uneven fuel delivery from the fuel distributor. I am however unfamiliar with the CA based emission control system. I would watch Pierre's video first to see if there is anything worth investigating on top of what you have already done. The best of luck!
Hi stray benzes I got some good news. I wrote you some months ago about a mercedes 380 sec with a surging high idle,squats between drive modes...well the cause was a sensor n°0055457324,that manages the idle based on the temperature I guess but nobody really talks about his importance,I thought my car was fried. I went back with my old icv by tuning it because the new one was unstable. Now with a lower idle the gearbox works 10 times better
That is a nice result!
@@straybenzes hell yeah,nobody really talks about that sensor but,if it doesn't work your car is a complete mess.
@@straybenzes btw,I love your videos,keep going brother,regards from italy🤙🤙
@@mattiazarrillo63 Thank you!!
@@mattiazarrillo63 Yup, and that is not the only one that can make your life very interesting.
Congratulations on the 1000 mark !
Thanks, I just noticed that too.
I am trying to sort out my D-Jet idle. ‘75 W116 450SEL. ***I have the CD service manual ***
It has VERY bad gas mileage probably 5 -9 miles per gallon. It’s terrible. It’s a beast on the highway it loves to go fast and has great power. But when it’s warm and stop and start around town the idle drops very low.
I emailed Pierre (he’s in FL) and he suggested to turn the idle adjustment on the ‘ECM’. Not many people know about that knob. (Benzworld) I had to work out which way to turn it myself. I did a quarter turn towards the rear of the vehicle so that’s clockwise from looking at the ECM while it’s installed.
The idle is much higher and stalling was halted for a while then it started up again. I checked out all the other engine controls and they are at spec (the MAP sensor gets the required 15 inches of vacuum and across the pins have the required resistance.
I still have one intake hose to change as I’ve changed all the others, new rubber fuel lines, fuel pump and filter. The pressure reg. at the engine is older. I have yet to check fuel pressure but when I opened the lines to change the hoses it had good residual pressure.
The three vacuum modulators at the firewall that control vacuum advance on the distributor all have sufficient vacuum and the electric side of it appears to work. I don’t know if more tests for that. The distributor vacuum advance relatively holds pressure from what I remember. I have yet to clean up the points. I’m working on doing that when it’s cooler.
I work on this car and drive it mainly in winter. I drive my ‘80 450SL in summer. Which is 20mpg!!
If that is Pierre Hedari and you are anywhere close to him that is where I would take your car.
What ended up fixing up problem?
@@straybenzes thanks! I have emailed him.
@@whitemike3795 Sorry for the late reply. i just now saw your question. Correcting the fuel injection differential pressure solved the issue.
Thank you that helped me immensely.
Cool! Thx
Great. Thanks man
Glad you liked it.
My name is Dren. I have a 1975 Mercedes 450sel, and its currently not running well, I checked the spark plug cables and everything, there was a cable that was cut, I changed it and it worked okay for 2mins, then I shut it down and came back after 10 and it still does the same problem although the cable is fine.
Hmm. For an engine to run it needs fuel, ignition, and air. You seem focused on something electrical. If that is the case I would take a look what the cable you are referring to is connected to and if that is an ignition related part.
Do you have a spark at the spark plugs? Test it with a removed plug that is touching the metal part of the engine and have someone crank the engine. Do not hold it as this can give you a severe electrical shock. There should be a strong spark visible at the spark plug.
If it does have a spark focus on fuel delivery next. This model should have the K Jetronic fuel injection system. Trouble with this one is that the distributor is made from cast iron and that makes it prone to corrosion over time and this can cause it to not deliver enough or no fuel. Jump the fuel pump relay and turn the ignition on. Crack open a fuel delivery line at the distirbutor and push down on the mass flow plate. Fuel should flow freely. Be super careful as fuel is super flammable. Do this outside so you don't set your house on fire. Good luck!
You said its primarily with cold starts. I was under the impression that there is an auxiliary fuel-injection jet which responds to the engine temperature on KE-jetronic systems. Some sort of plunger mechanism under the fulcrum point for the air-flow plate. This in turn signals additional fuel into the plenum for a short duration via a bi-metallic strip which disengaged the bypass as the engine warms. Thought that's what I read at least, but know that many of the jetronic systems were sensitive to any air leaks at many of the junction points along the intake passages. I won't tamper with the screw for certain, as I know my W126 has passed thru a great many amateur mechanics over the years. Fuel pressure & fuel pressure relay checks 1st. I follow what your saying my friend.
Cold starts, rough idle, and stalls when hitting the gas is usually due to the CO2 idle mix is too lean. This would be the fix for that particular problem set.
@@straybenzes just inquiring my friend. These Benz injection systems wound up on a lot of German Autos. Thanks for the confirmation of your idle solution.
@@murraykriner9425 Oh yes and in typical German fashion every system component needs to be in 100% good shape - then they work like a charm. All the best.
@@straybenzes after I read your comments I read again the section on the KE-Jetronic system, focused on cold-starting. Cold-start valves and warm-up regulators, along with the necessity to test fuel delivery in general; control pressure, primary pressure, and rest pressure, along with the EHA that governs the fuel enrichment at cold-start thru the engine warm-up process, while my notice went to the micro-switch for WOT operation. Involved to say the very least, but not too much to get.
@@murraykriner9425 Well said.
1986 300SE I6 EU model, car will start right up, then idles rough and stalls, have to crank for a while to get it started, once I rev it runs uneven and after warming up, all fine! Engine pulls very hard for 188ps. Strange thing is, if the car is in heated garage, for a long time, the car starts and idles perfect from start. I suspect fuel pressure or adjustment of the screw in the filterhouse. Maybe needs bit more fuel during cold start. Moist can also do weird things to 40 year electronics.
That sounds like the EHA needs adjusting and / or the start fuel injector system is not working properly.
Thank you
Glade you liked it.
Hello, how is the way to change the Mercedes 560 engine seats? We want an explanation or a practical video
Certainly. Please let me know what you mean by engine seats.
Hi, i thought fixing my high idle problem by turning that screw. Now my idle is really low, but also the engine is working irregularly when idle. Should i just turn it up again and check/replace the leerlaufsteller to fix my idle problem? I hope i was clear enough.
Hi there. This is only for setting the CO2 during idle and it will not do anything to control the idle rpm. Turning this without it being the root cause will make your issues worse as at higher rpm the engine control will try compensate for a too lean or rich a fuel mixture. Best thing is to make sure that you do not have a vac leak at the intake, make sure that the intake flap gap and fuel flow start is properly set, the fuel pressure is correct, and then that the fuel distributor is in proper working order. The video link to Pierre Hedary's is worth clicking on and he covers this topic very well.
@@straybenzes thank you for your reply. Great help, wish you all the best!
@@Picklerick20 Ditto!
Hello, I have a 84 500SEL with serious engine shake from idle up to about 2000K RPM, the mechanic said it had the wrong spark plugs and has changed them but is now saying it is still doing it and thinks it is the injector pump? I've never heard of an injector pump...any thoughts and Danke ahead of time.
Yeah, you may want to look for another mechanic. If it is spark plugs it is usually one or two to cause a shake but you can pull the plug connector and that flushes out the bad one.
There is not injection pump on that engine. He may mean the fuel distributor. I would start with the easy stuff: fuel delivery and pressure. Then the idle mix, and only then would I tackle the fuel distributor and air mass flow flap adjustment etc. Good luck!
Thank you for uploading all these videos! I have a 88' 300SE with the M103 I6 engine and it has a rough idle and stall problem. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and the ignition coil. The car starts and idles rough at 500 rpm (normally it use to idle at 700 to 800 rpm), when it revs to 1500 rpm+ it seems to smooth out but when left to idle again it returns to rough idling. When driving around town at low rpm with start/stop driving it would stall and not restart until it sits for an hour or two. Do you have any suggestions on what I should check?
I think that there are a few issues here. Hot start issues are very often caused by a leaky fuel pressure accumulator. It is located right next to the fuel distributor block. The rough idle can have a whole myriad of causes. Two issues can relate back to the OVP relay and / or the fuel pump relay being bad. Assuming you have no vacuum leak one issue can be the idle air flow control valve. I think this gets falsely changed out as the main culprit, but this part is not too expensive.
This is very difficult to diagnose from afar, but one recommendation I have for you is to just change / repair one thing at a time. This way you can actually see cause and effect.
same issue on my w124 90'... in this very channel there is a video about low power on acceleration (ruclips.net/video/Hs8w5zBxHvY/видео.html)... try this and response. after that EHA modification my m103 runs like a tiger!!!!
I have the 100% same symptoms!! Exactly the same! Driving 200 miles on interstate is like a dream, hot weather, city, stop and go..stall and needs time to start again. I have a 1990 420 SEL US
I have a issue when connect my potentiometer in to the side of the fuel distutor my car doesn’t go over 60km
Are you talking about the throttle position poti?
i noticed onmy 420 sel 1989 pcv breather hose should i put one on THANKYOU
A hose or a PCV valve? Hose yes. PCV no. These engines did not have such valves attached.
I'm missing the rubber plug on the air cleaner cover. I wonder if that affects my idle?
That will not affect idle. You should replace that plug soon though as unfiltered air will get through to your engine. It is not much, but dirty air is allowed through that hole.
Hey stray, I have an issue with my 85 500 sec 134k miles gas engine v8. When I start my car the engine is rough and it stalls over a few seconds of having it on. It gets worse if I put it in drive or reverse and tries to turn itself off even more. Also the engine runs rich and I notice it has a lot of carbon that comes out of the exhaust and creates a lot of smoke when your first turn it on. Another thing is the economy gauge is kinda near halfway on idle for some reason, not where it’s supposed to be. Other than the carbon build up and smoke from the exhaust, the car drove fine. I went to install a new ac compressor since my old one broke. I also changed a leaky hose of engine coolant. That’s all the work I’ve done at the moment.After that this has been happening.Any idea what it could be and how to fix it and what I should do?
This may be a vacuum leak. Assuming that your engine does not consume more than a quart of oil per 1k miles I would focus on seeing if you have a vac leak. Has anyone messed with the idle CO2 adjustment screw? Quite a few techs unfamiliar with the old KJetronic mistaken that for an idle RPM set screw, which this system does not have. Other than that it is very difficult to assess what may be going on from the distance. Good luck!
@@straybenzes I have a few videos that I can show you if it’s possible so you could see how the car reacts. Is there a way I could send you it?
@@julianvillalobos2228 You could possibly use something like Dropbox etc.
@@straybenzes what’s your Dropbox or email then?
Welcome
What is the reason for the engine shaking and shaking, even though the fuel distributor has been rebuilt, as well as the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and spark plug wire distributor, as well as sanding the valves or valves?
Replacing components is a good thing and a great start, but what was the problem to begin with? Throwing parts at any problem can cause more issues. One thing you have to do now is make sure that the idle air mix is set correctly, the fuel pressure is set correctly, and that the idle air and throttle control system is set up correctly. Also, make sure that ignition timing is not an issue.
@@straybenzes Write me your WhatsApp number so I can contact you
Hello! Have you encountered a sputter on m103 when you press the throttle “fast/blip”. But goes ok when you do it really slow?. Im having issues with my 201. I really couldnt think of whats causing it
If this model is equipped with the KE Jetronic then I would say that the fuel pressure differential is off. There is a video about how to measure the pressure and how to adjust it. Sounds like that your engine is not getting enough fuel. It should choke and sputter when it is cold outside and only get slightly better with a hot engine.
Hi straybenzes,i have my 380 with surging idle only in park or n,once i put her in drive it become stable. Furthermore,changing from park to drive the car "squats" a bit,and needs more time to really engage drive mode or reverse. What should i check?
Btw I changed everything related to the idle,from the module to a brand new icv. Checked vacuum leaks,timing. I think she needs a good calibration of the k jet,because it also smells a lot. Now she idles to like 900/1000 but only in park it's like a mustang.
The only thing I didn't checked yet,is if the injector leaks
There is a lot going on here. Putting it into drive puts load on the engine and the idle control lets more air into the throttle which in turn opens the air flow meter and the engine gets more fuel that way. This could be a few things. It could be the air flow metering plate adjustment. Pierre Hedari made a great video about the older K Jetronic and how to diagnose it. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D_G5qLK5qlXc&ved=2ahUKEwjVjNSVtauGAxU8lIkEHaj7DQMQtwJ6BAgQEAI&usg=AOvVaw0kggdi09hcqctmXR58HFVL
The rear "squat" is a frequent occurrencece and some of it you can improve with replacing all the rubber components of the rear suspecion. That is a job and a half though. The lagging in the gear engagement is typically clogged shift block passages and the two little screens in it. See how much junk you have in the tranny oil pan. If you see a lot of black flakes then that stuff can over time plug up the passages and screens. That also means the friction surfaces may be worn. That can be fixed by replacing those parts but it is expensive and shops who work on these trannys are not easy to find anymore. Good luck!
Hi, does anyone have any tips on what could be causing the slow acceleration after engine warm up on the W124 - 300-24V ? If I give it more throttle, the engine shuts off, I have to throttle with feeling to get it going and it takes maybe 10-15 seconds, which is pretty bad in a junction. I replaced the spark plugs, cables, coil, OVP relay, distributor cap and rotors, temperature sensors, fuel filter and still same problem + I have bad cold starts. I bought the car half a year ago, everything worked, the car was not driven and now on the first drive and several starts the following symptoms appear. If I had to turn the Allen wrench on my EHA, would that be only if this problem was also when the engine was cold or? Thanks
I would invest in a fuel differential pressure gauge set and measure the main fuel pressure and the differential pressure. That way you prevent throwing money at solutions that usually throw more unknown variables into the mix.
Hey man I have 1990 560sel the M117 engine and my cars been stuttering almost like misfiring when I drive it
That symptom unfortunately can be caused by a whole variety of issues. This could be an idle mix issue as well as lack of or incorrect fuel pressure. This could even be caused by the main fuel or pre filters. Since when did this issue exist?
Hello, my car won't idle so I unplugged the ICV and it idled high like right above the 1. Does this mean I have a bad ICV? Also my plugs had black soot on them does that mean I have a too heavy fuel too lean air mix?
The KE Jetronic is a fairly complex system making remote diagnosis very difficult. What is wrong with the idle and how long has that been an issue? I would first make sure that the CO mix screw is adjusted to the highest engine RPM with the ICV connected?
hey im having a really hard time figuring out why my 560sec sounds like its pinging, or pre igniting when i rev it up. just replaced my spark plugs cause i thought that was the problem, if i could send you a video of the noise i would really appreciate it.
Hmm. Noise diagnosis va film clips is pretty difficult. For how long has this been a problem? Did this just now start happening? Do you have a Google drive you could save it to and share the link to?
My name is Divaan ,I got a w123 230E it got a rough idle and wants to cut off, not to sure what's the problem , need some feedback
How long has this issue been a problem?
@@straybenzes for some time actually but now it doesn't want to start... I filled R300 gas but the fuel pump is spraying fuel non stop to the injectors which are wetting the plugs. I checked around and saw it's bridged and before I start it I would unplug it and turn on the ignition then for a couple seconds connect it for alittle bit for fuel to spray and it started but it's over fueling like really really bad, you can smell it in the smoke. So currently now if I had to start it , it won't start and I have been trying everything
@@divaanisrael3258 That sounds like the air mass flow meter plate is not adjusted correctly. There should be less than a mm air gap between that flap and the main mass flow meter body with the enginee off.
Hello, I have a Mercedes 190e 2.0 gasoline from the year 1992. I would like to know how to adjust the probe plate because my spark plugs turn black
I have a question for you. What is the item that you are referring to as the probe plate? Where does this sit?
I also have a question why when I start the car and it starts hard, the abs light stays on and the engine revs at 1000 rpm, I changed the brake pads relay and it's still the same, the abs stays on, maybe you can help me solve it this problem thanks.
@@tiberiuferencz That actually should be the over voltage protection relay that needs replacing.
thanks I had a split weld
@@tiberiuferencz Ok. Glad you have this problem fixed.
Can you please tell me what do you think about my problem with my 380sel starts just for a little bit then die and I start again and do the same thing
I would work my way up from the tank, fuel pumps, throttle body, check fuel pressure, fuel filters including the one at the fuel distributor, proper CO2 at idle adjustment, vacuum leaks, ignition system, etc. I know it is a more generic reply, but there are many symptoms that are the same for multiple root causes. I am hoping that you will find your issue. All the best.
I have a 86’ 420SEL it idles at 600 rpm but the engine shakes a little back and forth. It also does it on acceleration for a little bit at low rpm’s. Any idea if this is CO related? Thanks
It can be the idle mixture. Most average techs will mistake the idle mixture screw for the idle RPM adjustment. That screw should be set such that you get the max RPM at idle. If it does not idle well below 1000 rpm then there are other issues that need addressing. Good luck!
So I played around with the screw turn it clockwise and counterclockwise but didn’t really notice a big difference. Now it doesn’t start on a cold start.
@@georgesand4629 Did you put the screw back into the position you started from?
Is this possible on an r129 300SL (M 103)? Not sure where such a port would be.
It's is there. Most likely there is a little ball obstructing the access to the little allen head screw so as to prevent untrained folks not to mess with that. Go ahead and take another look.
HI MATE I'M WORKING ON MY 560 SEL BUT HAS MISS FIRE AND LOSE POWER MOST OF THE TIME AND ALSO I HAVE TO CLEAN PLUGS ALL THE TIME AS ITS GETTING FUEL IN THE PLUGS...CAN YOU HELP ME WITH IDEAS
What's your oil consumption? Fouled plugs can stem from worn valve guide seals. Has anyone adjusted your idle fuel mix ratio in the recent past? This needs to be adjusted to the max RPM at idle. High idle is due to other issues. If that checks out you are coming down to the baciscs of checking fuel delivery, pressure and dirreential pressue. Fun stuff, huh?
@@straybenzes yes we did adjust the idle I will try to put it in max and see
@@ismailismail1248 Yeah that is not an idle adjustment. Good luck.
@@straybenzes do you think it's has to do with gadgets?
@@ismailismail1248 Gadgets? Not sure what you mean by that.
I have a W126 with a high idle
(almost 2k rpm) only when in park or neutral. Any idea what I can look for to solve the problem?
I would start with the OVP relay. Have you replaced that one already? This is a frequent issue with these relays. How long has this been a problem? Did this just start happening?
It could also be the ICV Idle Control Valve but this is a little less likely. The warm up fuel injection valve could be leaky, but this would also mean that your fuel consumption is dramatically worse than usual. How is your fuel economy been?
@@straybenzes Thank you for the responding, I appreciate the help! I just got the car from a family member. It was parked for a while. The gas is not to bad.
In drive/reverse the rpm is normal 800/900rpm. But in park/neutral it jumps up to 2000rpm and stays there.
@@Big_HomieTX I would start with the OVP relay and take it from there. Getting the old gas out is a really good idea too.
I have a 1991 560 sel and I’m currently trying to figure out what the knocking in my engine could be.
Oof. There is the bad kind and the really bad kind of engine knock. If it is a light tapping upon starting with a cold engine and it only lasts for a minute or two, then I would say that this is due to collapsed lifter(s).
The worst kind is related to timing chain guides that are on the way out, or main / connecting rod bearing failure knocks.
I would first check the condition of the chain guides. You are lucky if the chain has not jumped timing because the engine will lock up and the chain typically will knock a hole into the valve cover(s). The best of luck to you.
@@straybenzes I actually think it’s my camshaft!! I was doing research and found a video that was identical to the sound my car was making, I’m taking it to my mechanic and seeing if that’s what it is.
@@straybenzes thank you so much you are like a RUclips uncle I need
@@destinyburchett5538 Ha, that one I have not heard yet. Thx!
@@destinyburchett5538 Please let me know what you find out and perhaps share the video link you found.
I see tht u usually reply t people!pls I have a w 124 petrol it mix petrol and engine oil !it was fixed by a mech and he always says it is the sensor plate udjustment like u where doing there thn after few months the problem cme back pls help me reply t me pls just hear .thnk you
Hi Muunda. Fuel in the engine lubricant is usually related to lots of cold starts and not running the car/ engine for a longer period of time to allow proper warm up of the engine. Do you have a lot of 5 to 10 minute car rides? Then that would explain extra gas getting into the engine.
I am not sure that this is the issue though. Please confirm this for me.
The whole fuel delivery system is otherwise pretty rock solid and the settings will typically not "drift" as your mechanic appears to imply. Good luck!
Hi, by turning the Allen key does this cause the manifold in the center to open and close? Mine is shut does that mean I would need to open it a bit?
This is the idle mixture adjustment screw and it does affect the mass flow flap that is part of the fuel distributor system. The screw therefor adjusts when the fuel system starts the fuel to start flowing through the distributor.
I am assuming that the engine is running right now. If so, let the engine come up to operating temp. Only then start making an adjustment - no more than a quarter turn at the time. Watch your engine rpm so that it reaches max rpm without any misses. I am hoping that this will help you a little.
I notice your flap is open?
And my problem is it does if you don't hold the pedal, whick way do I turn for more air?
Update, I was hot on the engine after lots of adjusting and I still have a low idle (500-600) now the engine idles smoother but on startup it makes a small noise before catching, I cleaned the icv and it works but I still think 600 is too low in park. In drive it goes to 500 but it feels smoother than before. I turned it the screw counter clockwise about a half turn even though you said quarter. My guesses the idle control relay has gone bad. Thanks for all your help. If there's anything I'm doing wrong please let me know.
@@yiannitrakas5582 Great job!
So I have this issue. What you don’t make clear at all is which way you are turning the screw to either make lean/richer the fuel.
CW appears to making it richer and CCW leaner. BUT consider that this is really going to improve a rough idle if the cause is rich or lean running only AT idle. Make adjustments very carefully by turning the screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn max. Your engine may start to stall at traffic lights etc. Good luck.
@@straybenzes but with E, of KE-jet there is another "player" that adjusting mixture.
This is the (electro hydraulic valve) witch "rotate lean-rich" based on CO2 sensor signals.
If you not disable this system, you will mess with it, the system will try to correct you, and you will be lost
@@Uc9uE3pKsS6uQ It is not for the faint of heart for sure and one had better remember the exact position you started from. This is not a cure all like some folks think it is. There are many "players" in this system that have got to be just right as well.
@@Uc9uE3pKsS6uQ the o-rings and diaphragm in electromechanical and fuel distributor on old engines get hard and I want to work the dismounted fuel system flooded with rubber rejuvenation fluid.
A mixture of xylene, wintermint oil and coconut oil is going to be the 1st witch's brew I try.
How can I contact you outside of youtube for ur help🤔🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
For the benefit of the other subscribers it would be better for you to post your questions here;
SeaFoam..
That can sometimes work - totally depends on what the root cause issue is.
PLEASE DON'T DO THIS..I AM NOT A MECHANIC...BUT I DO HAVE A 1991 MERCEDES 300E..AND I TRY ADJUSTING THE CO MIXTURE AND ALL OF THE SUDDEN THE CAR WENT DEAD...YES DEAD...IT WOULDN'T START..IT WOULD CRANK AND CRANK AND NOTHING...I HAD TO BUY THE WHOLE BUTTERFLY ASSEMBLY...(IF FOR SOME REASON YOU FEEL YOU HAVE TO MESS WITH THE CO ADJUSTMENT DO NOT GIVE THE THING WHOLE TURNS LET ME REPEAT..DO NOT GIVE IT WHOLE TURNS..ONLY 1/4 TURNS EITHER TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT..)
At 3.25min into my video I have covered this important note about not turning that screw more than quarter turn at a time. CO adjustment was not the problem if the engine would not start after turning the screw back into original position.
I don’t think you knew what you were doing I’ve personally probably turned that screw more than anybody, and it’s definitely a great fact to know what that screw does ….. I suggest you to rewatch the video…..
@@unclepeanut8066 Thanks!
trouble maker.. Do not touch this bolt this way
;)
so does turning clockwise raise the idle?
That totally depends on prior history of the maintenance meaning that the best way to go about it is to turn the screw a max of a 1/4 turn in or out at a time to get the highest engine idle out of it. Make a mental note of the position where the idle seems to go down again first turning CCW and then CW. Divide the left vs right turn position in half and that is where you position the screw.
Actual engine idle is controlled by the EHA, throttle position sensor, idle control valve and a few other items. Good luck!
@@straybenzes thanks for the thorough response
@@lazylewislewis4944 :)
Thank you
Glad you like it. All the best.