Thunder Shark LOL...Adam LZ didn't swap anything. He PAID Alberto to do it for him. There's a big difference between doing it yourself and paying someone else to do it for you.
There's one tiny little difference: I'm making this series as a tool for people to actually do it themselves. If I wasn't making videos the car would have been running months ago. But what good would that do the Miata community?
Adamlz is serving a specific side of the automotive RUclips community, the kind that wants super exciting high cost builds and click bait. Greg is building an engine from bare block, doing it informationally for REAL automotive RUclips enthusiasts. Keep doing what you're doing Greg, you're turning out a sick build even if these 13 year old wannabe drift kids say lz is doing anything better
A short hard line from the back of the exhaust side cilinder head oil port is my favourite oil feed. Simple and durable, no winding braided oil lines or breaking tee offs of the oem oil pressure sonsor port.
Haahaha And it's still not 100% running today in April of 2019. I think Greg slightly underestimated the job of building a high power miata. Sometimes it's just like that with cars though.
Thread sealer is absolutely required with NPT fittings. They will leak without. Also the heat shield material that you put over the oil feed is most likely fiberglass. There aren't many plastics that can handle high heat.
Most 1.8 heads have a feed just below the back of the exhaust cam, easy to use and you don't need a monster long line to reach it. Either way works well!
You are running the lines like I thought it would be the safest way, although so many people keep hooking up the line in the VVT-magic-mechanism on top or at the back of the head. Now seeing it, the oil line coming from the pressure sensor doesn't even look as long as I thought i would, so I think I'll go for that as well. I know it will be mentioned in your video series later on, but what FPR do you use? :D Do I really need the one with the return line from my NA or can I use the one that came with my VICS manifold? People on miataturbo are rude when it comes to asking questions like this :(
Never run a oil feed from the side you don't get accurate reading that way. Run yo oil feed from the port the oil sensor was at and put the sensor on the side hole!!
I have an nb (currently on 6ul 15x9s gen4). I wamt to run a autokonexion 10mm flare (my car is mostly track oriented but i want some good looks too ;)) but i dont know what lightweight wheel options to go w. The te37v is too expensive. Should i stick w what i have and a spacer or go maybe to 6ul 15x10s w a 245 instead of 225? Need halp pls
I'm new to this, so don't be too harsh... Doesn't the VVT system work based on oil pressure? If you tap into the VVT feed line for the turbo, won't that drop the pressure on the VVT feed line, i.e. defeat the VVT?
+rd400guy1 Even when tapped for turbo the VVT line should maintain consistent pressure and follow RPM just like without the turbo line. As long as your pressure is always the same at each RPM you should be able to have a consistent VVT tune. But, I've never tuned VVT before so I'll find out!
Still loving the content but just not sure I'm liking how short the vids are now. Just as I'm getting into it and wanting it to carry on it finishes and I'm like owww :( lol.
Why don't you use fuel hose clamp style hose clamps? They are like T-bolt clamps, much easier to use than the worm clamps! More even pressure too, or so I hear
The ECU on Miatas never knows the oil pressure. With my standalone I'm adding a 2nd oil pressure gauge so it will actually know what the pressure is and I can setup safeguards.
Hey G, so the 1.6 oil pressure sensor is a real sensor not just a there's pressure but can't tell you the exact pressure like the NB. If thats the case that should work on the NB VVT right?
mgamma5001 Do NB's have a fully functional gauge? I've never owned one haha. I just know my 1.6 cluster will understand my 1.6 sensor. I'm running a 2nd oil pressure sensor for MS to actually get numbers, I just don't want a dead oil pressure gauge in my cluster 😁
Unfortunately the NA - NB starting with the 95 went to a gauge that simply indicates the presence of oil pressure. Up to 94 they actually indicate real pressure, I just wanted to figure out if the 94 gauge and sender would work on the NB. Even if it isn't a great fit having a real pressure gauge is a must for a modified or track machine. Keep up the great work and detail!
+Jonathan Ramirez *Esteban* Getting to 2.0 with just boring alone leaves the cylinder walls too thin to safely run big boost; and a stroker kit is just too expensive to be worth it.
those aluminium T's with the heavy pressure sender fatigue and fail really quickly. mine failed within a couple of thousand miles at my first trackday. its far too much weight on such a small fitting. Ive t'd off my oil cooler sandwhich plate.
TheCarPassionChannel wow! I did not know this thanks, I purchased a turbo kit and I’m trying to learn everything I can about them your channel has showed me a lot !
Would add restriction which is bad in the drain. An oil cooler anywhere prior to the turbo would bring overall temps down but very few people have found it a requirement for street builds and usually it's just because you can. Bearing in mind that you want your engine working properly and not taking forever to come up to temp.
AdamLZ took 2 days to swap an engine , you took months and didn't even finish
Thunder Shark ya but he also has a good budget and a lot of help...the vvti build is pretty special and is not just a common 1j
Thunder Shark LOL...Adam LZ didn't swap anything. He PAID Alberto to do it for him. There's a big difference between doing it yourself and paying someone else to do it for you.
Adam was swaping the engines, Greg is building one ;)
There's one tiny little difference: I'm making this series as a tool for people to actually do it themselves. If I wasn't making videos the car would have been running months ago. But what good would that do the Miata community?
Adamlz is serving a specific side of the automotive RUclips community, the kind that wants super exciting high cost builds and click bait. Greg is building an engine from bare block, doing it informationally for REAL automotive RUclips enthusiasts. Keep doing what you're doing Greg, you're turning out a sick build even if these 13 year old wannabe drift kids say lz is doing anything better
I'm glad these short videos are just as jammed packed with information, tips, and warnings as your longer ones were. These videos are so awesome dude!
Since you are already running all these custom oil lines, why not take this opportunity to add a small oil cooler with a thermostat?
Best series on youtube. Keep up the good work man
loving this series
Great info. Looking forward to seeing this project in action
Can't wait to hear it start!
A short hard line from the back of the exhaust side cilinder head oil port is my favourite oil feed.
Simple and durable, no winding braided oil lines or breaking tee offs of the oem oil pressure sonsor port.
thanks for your input and opinion
Misselikke pin!
What I run in my car as well.
man this engine is soo clean.
How much longer would you say the build is going to take? I'm excited to see the beast up and running again, it feels like it's been forever.
Haahaha And it's still not 100% running today in April of 2019. I think Greg slightly underestimated the job of building a high power miata. Sometimes it's just like that with cars though.
No lie you're my favorite car youtuber
Great job Greg, you do great quality work and your video quality is at top quality level now!
Thread sealer is absolutely required with NPT fittings. They will leak without. Also the heat shield material that you put over the oil feed is most likely fiberglass. There aren't many plastics that can handle high heat.
Dan Jennings you're right. The heat shield he put on is fiberglass
Good solid info. I always look forward to these videos.
Most 1.8 heads have a feed just below the back of the exhaust cam, easy to use and you don't need a monster long line to reach it.
Either way works well!
This video title is gonna get me in trouble at work...
That red hydraulic hose is the shit for oil drains 🤘
I cant wait to hear this thing spool. 🙈
great work and very nicely edited!
You are running the lines like I thought it would be the safest way, although so many people keep hooking up the line in the VVT-magic-mechanism on top or at the back of the head. Now seeing it, the oil line coming from the pressure sensor doesn't even look as long as I thought i would, so I think I'll go for that as well.
I know it will be mentioned in your video series later on, but what FPR do you use? :D Do I really need the one with the return line from my NA or can I use the one that came with my VICS manifold? People on miataturbo are rude when it comes to asking questions like this :(
I'll be using a 90-93 FPR mounted upside down on a 99-00 rail
TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for your confirmation, me too 😀 Getting more and more confident in this.
@@TheCarPassionChannel Liar! lol
Mustang owners beware.....
Sweet looking turbo manifold! What brand is it? Or did you have it made?
Oh! You did paint the block! :D thumbsup!!
And that oil drain fitting I would have beveled that the top edge to promote oil flow.
That's the best way to do the drain. A regular line and hose clamps
Never run a oil feed from the side you don't get accurate reading that way. Run yo oil feed from the port the oil sensor was at and put the sensor on the side hole!!
Ronald Jenkees is the man!
What are the thread sizes on the adapter? 1/8npt? or metric M?
Awesome video dude keep it up
Hi Greg, can you remember roughly how long your oil feed line was. I can't currently get to my car to measure it but want to order some more parts.
yoo jenkees is a badass!
How much HP do you want this block to push, and how much do you think its gonna push?
had been discussed in a previous video.
I have an nb (currently on 6ul 15x9s gen4). I wamt to run a autokonexion 10mm flare (my car is mostly track oriented but i want some good looks too ;)) but i dont know what lightweight wheel options to go w. The te37v is too expensive. Should i stick w what i have and a spacer or go maybe to 6ul 15x10s w a 245 instead of 225? Need halp pls
I'm new to this, so don't be too harsh... Doesn't the VVT system work based on oil pressure? If you tap into the VVT feed line for the turbo, won't that drop the pressure on the VVT feed line, i.e. defeat the VVT?
+rd400guy1 Even when tapped for turbo the VVT line should maintain consistent pressure and follow RPM just like without the turbo line. As long as your pressure is always the same at each RPM you should be able to have a consistent VVT tune. But, I've never tuned VVT before so I'll find out!
What type of hose are you using for the return? I'm having a hard time finding something to deal with the hot oil.
Are you doing an oil cooler with this build?
do you use any sealant on the turbo oil drain fitting or just a gasket
Why didn't you ceramic coat your turbo manifold and the hot side to your turbo charger.
Ive got an oil leak out of my oil pressure VVT intersection. Any tips on what size tiny hardware I need to do a reseal? Thanks.
Get some stainless steel zip ties to hold the heat wrap on you can get them at the parts store I use them on everything they are AWESOME
What type of torque wrench do you have?
I like this mod I can apply this to my FBODY
Still loving the content but just not sure I'm liking how short the vids are now. Just as I'm getting into it and wanting it to carry on it finishes and I'm like owww :( lol.
What thread sealer are you using?
Thank you so much for the video! Keep it up. I was going to ask just to confirm, is this the same way you can do on a 1.6 1991?
MultiAna96 The feed is even easier on a 1.6, check out my video "broke & boosted ep12" :)
TheCarPassionChannel thank you!
Didn't you buy another car i wanna know what it is
I spent about 5mins trying to work out how I had managed to scratch my monitor before realising it was your profile picture...
Why don't you use fuel hose clamp style hose clamps? They are like T-bolt clamps, much easier to use than the worm clamps! More even pressure too, or so I hear
Cramer Ward-Collings Just didn't think of it really, good idea though 👍
2:26 so for example you ecu won't know your oil pressure? I thought it was useful to trigger alarms or protection mode and so on?
The ECU on Miatas never knows the oil pressure. With my standalone I'm adding a 2nd oil pressure gauge so it will actually know what the pressure is and I can setup safeguards.
TheCarPassionChannel yeah of course I was talking about a standalone ;)
All good then ^^
Shoutout Ronald Jenkees!
Is that jenkees shirt in refrence ronald jenkees ? And if so where did you get it?
Jacob Kite From Ronald Jenkees' site my dude :) I've got all 5 albums signed #fanboi
If that's heater hose that you're using, the oil will sweat through it and make a mess. Heater hose is for coolant only.
Negative - specifically rated for oil. That's why it's annoyingly red, lol. Was the only color I could find with the right rating
Hey G, so the 1.6 oil pressure sensor is a real sensor not just a there's pressure but can't tell you the exact pressure like the NB. If thats the case that should work on the NB VVT right?
mgamma5001 Do NB's have a fully functional gauge? I've never owned one haha. I just know my 1.6 cluster will understand my 1.6 sensor. I'm running a 2nd oil pressure sensor for MS to actually get numbers, I just don't want a dead oil pressure gauge in my cluster 😁
Unfortunately the NA - NB starting with the 95 went to a gauge that simply indicates the presence of oil pressure. Up to 94 they actually indicate real pressure, I just wanted to figure out if the 94 gauge and sender would work on the NB. Even if it isn't a great fit having a real pressure gauge is a must for a modified or track machine.
Keep up the great work and detail!
Here is the link for the Moss motors conversion www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/instructions/904-431.pdf
What will you hook the second one up to?
Backyard Gearhead To Megasquirt for data logging and safeguards
so wait... the 1.8 doesn't have the high pressure oil point on the block like the 1.6 does?
nytovaok516 '94 1.8 does but the 95-05 do not. (Early 95's may have had one?)
We need more vids
What kind of hose do you use for the oil drain?
Jake Backman 5/8" ID and something oil compatible. Link in the description for all parts used in the video
Why didnt you go for the 2.0?
+Jonathan Ramirez *Esteban* Getting to 2.0 with just boring alone leaves the cylinder walls too thin to safely run big boost; and a stroker kit is just too expensive to be worth it.
those aluminium T's with the heavy pressure sender fatigue and fail really quickly. mine failed within a couple of thousand miles at my first trackday. its far too much weight on such a small fitting. Ive t'd off my oil cooler sandwhich plate.
Laurence Matthews It's actually steel, the one sold by Trackspeed Engineering. I trust anything they run on their cars 🙂
Do oil cooler with JDM bumper mount
After you did the work of painting the valve cover, are you going to paint the vvt system aswell?
Is this optional or do we have to do this?
The turbo 100% needs oil
TheCarPassionChannel wow! I did not know this thanks, I purchased a turbo kit and I’m trying to learn everything I can about them your channel has showed me a lot !
Does anyone make or has anyone put a small oil cooler in line with the turbo drain?
+andre surles I doubt enough oil passes through that line to make a difference
Would add restriction which is bad in the drain. An oil cooler anywhere prior to the turbo would bring overall temps down but very few people have found it a requirement for street builds and usually it's just because you can. Bearing in mind that you want your engine working properly and not taking forever to come up to temp.
So it *is* an efr turbo...
we knew that for some weeks now?
hey Greg I'm a really nice person you can use my miata to test fit it and then give it back because I'm such a nice person you're welcome
Yea 3rd boi
Dont want to be a dick or anything but don't you think it isn't optimal that the hole you drilled is not smooth?
+22letis22 I'm not worried about it
First!
*_Jeenkees_*
you need a hair cut brah hehehe too busy on the vvti huh ? loll