That was an excellent video! I'm about to install my MaxJax but here on the west coast, new homes have post tension cables running 4ft in both directions in the slab. They are similar to rebar but must be avoided when drilling. I will be doing an xray of the concrete to locate these cables. Also, great idea to use the MaxJax crate sides for wall deco, well done!
Use a larger footing if you anchor a 3'x3' 1/2" steel plate to the concrete first then weld your lift platform to that , from an engineering point of view you don't need thicker concrete. Worked for me. Work smarter first, then work harder!
is it just me or would cutting out a square like that only a few inches deep make the issue worse? There is now very little holding that reinforced square in place and the concrete around it could just as easily give?
Hello, The concrete was cut about 1x1 foot. The concrete that was in place was only 4 inches deep. The new poor was about 12 inches deep. In addition the new poor was grade 5,000 lbs psi with fiber mesh and on top of that reinforced with wire. The new poor went well under the old concrete and was cured has not given an inch. I explained all this on the video.
You are correct, and also the instructions mentions not to use the lift in hand mixed concrete which seems what his contractor did and then it was not even and he shimmed over 1/8 of inch to compensate which instructions say also not to do, but he did a good job with all the extras and it came really nice, if he feels good about it that is what matters, if he only lift cars occasionally should be fine, but even with the epoxy on those square edges the posts are sitting on only 3x3 heavy PSI concrete, in time that force may show a surprise, while if he just installed in the 4" slab he would have had more structural hold as he got more square inches of tightly reinforced concrete, only time will tell
Great video with very useful tips and information but there is always something as nothing is perfect, did you know that Max Jax recommends NOT to use hand mixed concrete? The concrete contractor and the whole planning was a very good job and I guess it is holding up to this day and you are happy but doing all that and mixing by hand if you did negates the reinforcement, may as well not do it and install just in the 4" slab and Max Jax specifically points that you should not shim more that 1/8 of an inch, all this is in the instructions that you just did not read or completely ignored but then again, to each their own and nothing can be completely perfect and as long as you are happy with all that extra expense and makes you feel good then that is what matters the location you chose is awesome after moving the garage opener. I thought to do the same but there is no too much point as my garage is 20x20x8, may as well use half and make sure the car does not hit the garage opener light on the way up, the side closest to the wall will be tight to work on but to use the center of the garage as you show here moving the opener for me requires to free garage from cluttering and I do not have space where to put stuff; you do not have that problem in yours, all stuff in my garage are in dollies and I move it around as needed; after the lift installation I will have only 1/4 of free garage space with a car inside, very hard to work in such space but we use what we got and make the best of it
I bought a cheap elec jackhammer and removed 10x13 feet pad, added rebar and has $700 of 40k psi with fibermesh poured, we bull floated it in 30 minutes and it was done, the hardest part was removing the broken up old concrete, I paid a kid to throw it all in a trailer for my neighbor who wanted it for something. Removed it all in 4 hours. All in all it cost $1K. I'll sell the jackhammer for $100. (vevo). i will be Ordering the lift from Lowes, they deliver it to the driveway for $80, the store is 100 miles from me. Lowes has the best price I can find at $3600 plus tax. Everyone else has it over $4K. If I had 1/2 inch difference side to side height I'd get a 1/2 inch plate.
Can you tell me a rough estimate of what it cost you to have someone fix the concrete like this? I was thinking of doing something similar, but was thinking that the area to replace would have to be larger but it appears as long as it's done right it should be enough to do the size you did here.
When you leveled the lift on both sides they where true you said then leveled the two lifts together to get the lift go up the same time did it throw you level off on the left and right lift polls separately I am running into same thing with my max Jax any tips
Yes, one side was a bit lower than the other. I have to use shims to bring it up a bit to find the proper level. On the Manual specifies the maximum tolerance when using shims ( I was good). If I have to do it all over gain I would it build one leveled pad from side to side to avoid this
@@DIY.11.11 One levelled pad from side to side with embedded rebar across the width would definitely be a stronger option for sure and would accommodate a lift with even much more capacity. Guess the only problem there would be if the new full width pad created a step/bump for your rolling creeper or stool. What you have done is surely enough for the 6000lb capacity of the Maxjax though. The one thing I am very surprised that I don't see anyone doing on any of these garage mods with the two squares cut out is to just get a post hole digger to make a quick easy hole that one can easily pound a few vertical pieces of rebar into and then tie into the horizontal rebar. That would add an exponential amount of strength and security to the lift. Like putting a "cheater bar" in the ground under the lift to keep the legs from being able to "tip".
This is the M6K, I have the M7K and the width of the post is 14 inches, the depth is 13, not sure if dimensions are same for both models, so the posts or columns are not 1 square foot if they are as mine.
Great job on both the install and video!
Some great tips in this video. I appreciate you sharing all the research you did. Definitely gave me some things to think about that I hadn't before!
Good luck with your projects !
That was an excellent video! I'm about to install my MaxJax but here on the west coast, new homes have post tension cables running 4ft in both directions in the slab. They are similar to rebar but must be avoided when drilling. I will be doing an xray of the concrete to locate these cables. Also, great idea to use the MaxJax crate sides for wall deco, well done!
Well done, good luck with your project.
Good work..in video..I did in my home shop.. installed a inground lift..no above ground posts..open floor ..
Thanks !
Awesome! Detailed video. Thank you.
😃👍
Thanks
Very detailed approach and great result!
Thanks !
Very informative thank you for the video
excellent video! thanks!
Use a larger footing if you anchor a 3'x3' 1/2" steel plate to the concrete first then weld your lift platform to that , from an engineering point of view you don't need thicker concrete. Worked for me. Work smarter first, then work harder!
Great video remake it without the music . Blew my ears out
I will keep that in mind for future videos.
is it just me or would cutting out a square like that only a few inches deep make the issue worse? There is now very little holding that reinforced square in place and the concrete around it could just as easily give?
Hello,
The concrete was cut about 1x1 foot. The concrete that was in place was only 4 inches deep. The new poor was about 12 inches deep. In addition the new poor was grade 5,000 lbs psi with fiber mesh and on top of that reinforced with wire. The new poor went well under the old concrete and was cured has not given an inch. I explained all this on the video.
You are correct, and also the instructions mentions not to use the lift in hand mixed concrete which seems what his contractor did and then it was not even and he shimmed over 1/8 of inch to compensate which instructions say also not to do, but he did a good job with all the extras and it came really nice, if he feels good about it that is what matters, if he only lift cars occasionally should be fine, but even with the epoxy on those square edges the posts are sitting on only 3x3 heavy PSI concrete, in time that force may show a surprise, while if he just installed in the 4" slab he would have had more structural hold as he got more square inches of tightly reinforced concrete, only time will tell
Great video with very useful tips and information but there is always something as nothing is perfect, did you know that Max Jax recommends NOT to use hand mixed concrete? The concrete contractor and the whole planning was a very good job and I guess it is holding up to this day and you are happy but doing all that and mixing by hand if you did negates the reinforcement, may as well not do it and install just in the 4" slab and Max Jax specifically points that you should not shim more that 1/8 of an inch, all this is in the instructions that you just did not read or completely ignored but then again, to each their own and nothing can be completely perfect and as long as you are happy with all that extra expense and makes you feel good then that is what matters the location you chose is awesome after moving the garage opener. I thought to do the same but there is no too much point as my garage is 20x20x8, may as well use half and make sure the car does not hit the garage opener light on the way up, the side closest to the wall will be tight to work on but to use the center of the garage as you show here moving the opener for me requires to free garage from cluttering and I do not have space where to put stuff; you do not have that problem in yours, all stuff in my garage are in dollies and I move it around as needed; after the lift installation I will have only 1/4 of free garage space with a car inside, very hard to work in such space but we use what we got and make the best of it
I bought a cheap elec jackhammer and removed 10x13 feet pad, added rebar and has $700 of 40k psi with fibermesh poured, we bull floated it in 30 minutes and it was done, the hardest part was removing the broken up old concrete, I paid a kid to throw it all in a trailer for my neighbor who wanted it for something. Removed it all in 4 hours.
All in all it cost $1K. I'll sell the jackhammer for $100. (vevo).
i will be Ordering the lift from Lowes, they deliver it to the driveway for $80, the store is 100 miles from me.
Lowes has the best price I can find at $3600 plus tax. Everyone else has it over $4K.
If I had 1/2 inch difference side to side height I'd get a 1/2 inch plate.
Can you tell me a rough estimate of what it cost you to have someone fix the concrete like this? I was thinking of doing something similar, but was thinking that the area to replace would have to be larger but it appears as long as it's done right it should be enough to do the size you did here.
I payed around 1k for the 2 concert pads. 1ftx1ft about 12 inches deep, concrete 5k psi reinforced with fiber mesh and rebar.
Did you use bag concrete
@@reyrisonrosales5101I did with a giant rented power mixer, 5000psi concrete
What's the distance from garage door to the edge of the post foot plate??
About 81/2 feet
When you leveled the lift on both sides they where true you said then leveled the two lifts together to get the lift go up the same time did it throw you level off on the left and right lift polls separately I am running into same thing with my max Jax any tips
Yes, one side was a bit lower than the other. I have to use shims to bring it up a bit to find the proper level. On the Manual specifies the maximum tolerance when using shims ( I was good). If I have to do it all over gain I would it build one leveled pad from side to side to avoid this
@@DIY.11.11 One levelled pad from side to side with embedded rebar across the width would definitely be a stronger option for sure and would accommodate a lift with even much more capacity. Guess the only problem there would be if the new full width pad created a step/bump for your rolling creeper or stool. What you have done is surely enough for the 6000lb capacity of the Maxjax though. The one thing I am very surprised that I don't see anyone doing on any of these garage mods with the two squares cut out is to just get a post hole digger to make a quick easy hole that one can easily pound a few vertical pieces of rebar into and then tie into the horizontal rebar. That would add an exponential amount of strength and security to the lift. Like putting a "cheater bar" in the ground under the lift to keep the legs from being able to "tip".
If the front edge to front edge distance is 9ft. and the post is 1sqft. then rear edge to rear edge distance must be 120"
Yes!
This is the M6K, I have the M7K and the width of the post is 14 inches, the depth is 13, not sure if dimensions are same for both models, so the posts or columns are not 1 square foot if they are as mine.
A wall mount garage door opener would be better
Yes, I quoted that idea but was to expensive. Maybe in the future. If this hanging unit last for a few more years that works for me.
that music SUCKS. Blew my ears out.
I will make sure keep that in mind