Video on installing Gold Valve Emulators and drilling out damping rods. Check out my video of my off road test of these emulators! • Vstrom 650 Off Road Te...
I like the way the suspension handles now, it's way better than stock. I did a little offroad riding and some jumping too and it's very smooth and I have not bottomed out the forks yet. I also did a rear spring swap on the stock monoshock. I'm glad you liked the video! I should have more videos soon. Thanks for watching
So you think the emulators alone do the job? In other words, the stock springs are good enough? At 165 lbs + 15 lbs gear + 30 lbs luggage/accessories it was recommended by suspension tuner that I add these emulators, 10 wt oil, and keep the stock springs (aftermarket springs being too stiff for my weight).
+Michael B The emulators do their job quite well. I'm 190 lbs so that's why I upgraded my springs. Remember when you load up gear most of that weight will be over the rear wheel. I have overloaded my vstrom to the point that it was extremely hard to keep the front wheel on the ground when accelerating so the forks weren't even loaded except for braking. (It was an interesting 600 mile journey).
Michael B I used RT springs and calculated the spring weight off their website. I used their website for my yz250 and strom for springs and revalving recommendations also and have been satisfied so far with the results on both bikes. As I said before I only calculated my rider weight. Remember 80 Percent is the rider and 20 percent is the bike. Use your judgement for what you need. If you feel your bike is underperforming make the changes. If you feel your technique is inadequate you should practice more. Don't spend more then you need to
+pedrodkuhn I'm not positive on why they use the spacers and I wondered that question myself. My thought was it spaces the emulator up to allow the correct amount of fluid to be underneath the emulator or maybe it's just to protect the brass emulator from rubbing in on the steel damper.
FYI svriders.com has an argument between whether or not you should drill out additional holes in the damper rods and weld close the rebound holes. I'm no expert, but if anyone else is doing this mod make sure you've read all the info.
I think the adapter is for the valve not to leave the place when we are pumping the forks to get the air out. But a good professional like me knows how to do this without the valve leaving the place :P
+pedrodkuhn I just read from racetech that the adapter is used if the ID of the damping rod cup doesn't have a minimum of .020 clearance to the OD of the bottom of the valve. I'm pretty sure there is adequate clearance without the spacer but I didn't measure it to be positive. I'm probably going to replace the fork seals soon since they have 30k miles on them now so I'll measure the clearance so I can add that information on here.
how you set rebound? with 7,5 w oil, there is no rebound there. if front wheel hit the uneven surfice in the corner at high speed on tarmac, alah u akbar.
Fork oil weight is only part of the equation for tuning your forks. Different types of forks/valving will require different weights. 7.5 was recommended to me and it's worked perfect. 40k miles on it now without a problem.
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I like the way the suspension handles now, it's way better than stock. I did a little offroad riding and some jumping too and it's very smooth and I have not bottomed out the forks yet. I also did a rear spring swap on the stock monoshock. I'm glad you liked the video! I should have more videos soon. Thanks for watching
So you think the emulators alone do the job? In other words, the stock springs are good enough? At 165 lbs + 15 lbs gear + 30 lbs luggage/accessories it was recommended by suspension tuner that I add these emulators, 10 wt oil, and keep the stock springs (aftermarket springs being too stiff for my weight).
+Michael B The emulators do their job quite well. I'm 190 lbs so that's why I upgraded my springs. Remember when you load up gear most of that weight will be over the rear wheel. I have overloaded my vstrom to the point that it was extremely hard to keep the front wheel on the ground when accelerating so the forks weren't even loaded except for braking. (It was an interesting 600 mile journey).
What springs did you use?
Michael B I used RT springs and calculated the spring weight off their website. I used their website for my yz250 and strom for springs and revalving recommendations also and have been satisfied so far with the results on both bikes. As I said before I only calculated my rider weight. Remember 80 Percent is the rider and 20 percent is the bike. Use your judgement for what you need. If you feel your bike is underperforming make the changes. If you feel your technique is inadequate you should practice more. Don't spend more then you need to
Thanks for showing that. I'm about to do the same to my vstrom 650. How did you like the upgrade?
I do not understand why you need the spacer.
The gold valve does not fit on the Damper Rod?
+pedrodkuhn I'm not positive on why they use the spacers and I wondered that question myself. My thought was it spaces the emulator up to allow the correct amount of fluid to be underneath the emulator or maybe it's just to protect the brass emulator from rubbing in on the steel damper.
@@coffeeandcarbide98Hi, the spacers are part of the set, or were bout separately?
FYI svriders.com has an argument between whether or not you should drill out additional holes in the damper rods and weld close the rebound holes. I'm no expert, but if anyone else is doing this mod make sure you've read all the info.
Hi great video. How did you know the size and quantity of extra holes to drill?
It was part of the instructions that came with the emulators. If I remember correctly it had a drawing with the dimensions.
thanks for the very good video
+frozen no problem!
I use ohlins springs 0.8N/mm, 2.5turns on RT valve, 10W Oil, and i dont put/use spacers betwin RT valve and dumping rod :)
My suspension are superb :D
+pedrodkuhn that's great!
I think the adapter is for the valve not to leave the place when we are pumping the forks to get the air out. But a good professional like me knows how to do this without the valve leaving the place :P
+pedrodkuhn I just read from racetech that the adapter is used if the ID of the damping rod cup doesn't have a minimum of .020 clearance to the OD of the bottom of the valve. I'm pretty sure there is adequate clearance without the spacer but I didn't measure it to be positive. I'm probably going to replace the fork seals soon since they have 30k miles on them now so I'll measure the clearance so I can add that information on here.
How many turns you did on gold valve screw?
pedrodkuhn I set mine at 1.5 turns with the 40 lb blue spring
2:59 headphone warning!
how you set rebound? with 7,5 w oil, there is no rebound there. if front wheel hit the uneven surfice in the corner at high speed on tarmac, alah u akbar.
Fork oil weight is only part of the equation for tuning your forks. Different types of forks/valving will require different weights. 7.5 was recommended to me and it's worked perfect. 40k miles on it now without a problem.