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You're so smart. Never thought I'd come across someone so intelligent. Oh rear brake master, teach me your infinite wisdom on this excruciatingly complex job. My brakes must have not been working the last 50k miles

No problem! I haven't made videos in years after youtube screwed me over. Thought about getting back into it

Thanks! I'm 200lbs but I did replace the stock rear spring for my weight.

Fork oil weight is only part of the equation for tuning your forks. Different types of forks/valving will require different weights. 7.5 was recommended to me and it's worked perfect. 40k miles on it now without a problem.

I would disassemble everything and look over it again. Check your threads to make sure the bolts didn't cross thread which could make it feel tight but the bolts aren't all the way home.

It was part of the instructions that came with the emulators. If I remember correctly it had a drawing with the dimensions.

Sure am! Hopefully I'll be able to head back down there this year for a ride. Might load the Strom and the new GasGas up in the truck.

You should. Just don't get it on the pads or rotors

@@coffeeandcarbide98 with the heat at the brake pads that copper grease could end up anywhere

+Michael B I upgraded to the recommended springs for my weight. I didn't bother accounting for gear as I mentioned in my other comment. The emulators definitely helped with nose dive and gives you a more firm, planted feel in corners on the road.

+Michael B The emulators do their job quite well. I'm 190 lbs so that's why I upgraded my springs. Remember when you load up gear most of that weight will be over the rear wheel. I have overloaded my vstrom to the point that it was extremely hard to keep the front wheel on the ground when accelerating so the forks weren't even loaded except for braking. (It was an interesting 600 mile journey).

What springs did you use?

Michael B I used RT springs and calculated the spring weight off their website. I used their website for my yz250 and strom for springs and revalving recommendations also and have been satisfied so far with the results on both bikes. As I said before I only calculated my rider weight. Remember 80 Percent is the rider and 20 percent is the bike. Use your judgement for what you need. If you feel your bike is underperforming make the changes. If you feel your technique is inadequate you should practice more. Don't spend more then you need to

+Lucian M I only threw this video together for the basics. That's why I stated follow all procedures and the video is just a visual reference. If it was someone else's bike other than my own I would have done a thorough job. I actually use an ultrasonic cleaner to do everything. Brake cleaner will destroy anything rubber and I've seen alot of people have premature brake failure from spraying brake cleaner everywhere to clean. I go through rear brakes alot riding offroad and I've already done them again since this video. I will admit I didn't do a great job on this video since I was rushing. I ride in harsh conditions all year in even in the salt,snow, mud, sand and through rivers. When you do that kind of riding you eventually get lazy cleaning shit all the time and just fix it when it goes(which takes alot of abuse and neglect and it's usually mud that packs in on the seals that kills them while riding). Seals are cheap and they don't usually just fail all of a sudden they will leak first. That's just me though and I appreciate your concern. Also front brakes are a different story. I always disassemble and clean them in my ultrasonic cleaner when the time comes since those are your life line on the road. Have fun and stay safe out there!

That's more like it! But the sealings are not cheap (in my country, Romania), about 40-50 USD for the caliper. I don't like riding in harsh conditions, but when the rain catches me, spent about 2 hours to clean the bike. Not really a pleasure :D. Ride safe! Best regards!

+frozen no problem!

+floss fly Glad I could help! I'll have more vstrom service videos up soon. If you need anything specific let me know. Thanks for watching.

+Taran Sanun No problem! If you have any requests on any maintenance videos let me know and I'll try to get them on here asap. Thanks for watching

+pedrodkuhn that's great!

I think the adapter is for the valve not to leave the place when we are pumping the forks to get the air out. But a good professional like me knows how to do this without the valve leaving the place :P

+pedrodkuhn I just read from racetech that the adapter is used if the ID of the damping rod cup doesn't have a minimum of .020 clearance to the OD of the bottom of the valve. I'm pretty sure there is adequate clearance without the spacer but I didn't measure it to be positive. I'm probably going to replace the fork seals soon since they have 30k miles on them now so I'll measure the clearance so I can add that information on here.

+pedrodkuhn I'm not positive on why they use the spacers and I wondered that question myself. My thought was it spaces the emulator up to allow the correct amount of fluid to be underneath the emulator or maybe it's just to protect the brass emulator from rubbing in on the steel damper.

@@coffeeandcarbide98Hi, the spacers are part of the set, or were bout separately?

pedrodkuhn I set mine at 1.5 turns with the 40 lb blue spring