I built a working Hotend out of a CPU cooler!
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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In this video I try to modify a CPU cooler made for a Raspberry Pi into a hotend for a 3D printer. If this works it has some interesting possibilities because of the heat pipes. These heat pipes move the heat elsewhere, so the filament path could possibly be a lot shorter than usual.
This is the heater block I used for this project geni.us/w7VIYZ Be aware that, unlike what I shown in the video, the pipes can break! I tried it a second time, also successfully, but I might have been lucky!
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That's one of the most gamer hot end extruder setup ever
Not only looks the cut parts very good...the clockwork looks equally impressive!
Thanks!
Dude, your projects are next level!! 🤘😎🤘
Can't wait to see what's coming.. 👀
Thanks Adrian!
Having an existential crisis when you realize the engineering challenge you set out for yourself was actually easy is a crazy problem to have lol.
I've been there it's the weirdest feeling.
It's like cheating yourself
The heat pipes are most likely filled with water (and sometimes with methanol). Definitely not ammonia, as it is used for lower temperatures and, most importantly, it's incompatible with copper, it will eat through the metal (I've tried that, but not with a heat pipe). What you bought is a solution of ammonia in water, which is of no use in a heat pipe (pure ammonia is required). You can put a piece of copper in that ammonia solution, it will turn a beautiful blue colour and the metal will dissolve after a couple of days. Both, pure and dissolved ammonia are corrosive towards copper.
If you broke the heat pipe, you wouldn't be able to repair it easily. They contain a very small amount of liquid, and the remaining volume is filled with the liquid's vapour. There is no air inside, and that makes the repair process difficult. Due to the lack of air "ballast", the pressure inside a heat pipe at room temperature is close to vacuum (actually equal to the vapour pressure of the liquid).
If you could keep one end of the tube at low enough temperature, you should be able to anneal the another part of the tube safely, provided that you will not damage anything else by the application of heat. However, keeping one end of a such short tube cool may prove difficult, first - due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, and second - due to the heat pipe action, as it will still work, albeit to a much lesser degree than in its intended operating conditions.
Thanks for the info! Shame that I never got to that point of finding that out by trial and error.
As if this is the only one you're gonna build lol@@properprinting
@shogoonn I need to repair my fridge in the Winnie that lost the containment, it is ammonia and hydrogen gas. Do you have any resources that can help me find a diy for this?
It seems to be a state secret. :)
Does it mean that the liquid in the tubes can be replaced with liquid with higher boiling temperature? And high stability and safety over 200C liquid? Like white spirit solvent or ethylene glycol
@@ИванЮрченко-ф2з
Water will do fine at 200°C, the heat pipe will run at a pressure higher than atmospheric. That's not a problem for small diameter tubes. I have some water filled heat pipes from Quick-Cool with working range from 5°C to 250°C.
Otherwise, yes, you can have heat pipes with other liquids, including liquid metals.
Filling a heat pipe is a complicated operation. It requires a filling station with a vacuum pump, liquid metering equipment, some valves and the ability to close to heat pipe after filling.
First you have to pump out everything from the heat pipe, and heat it to a higher temperature to remove any residues adsorbed on the surface, and then you close the vacuum and open the metering vessel, (a small one) which transfers the precise amount of liquid to the tube, and then you close the tube (pinch and weld). There are other methods of filling, but this one is AFAIK the most common one at the factories.
You could fill a heat pipe at home, which I've done successfully, by partially filling it with the working liquid, heating it until the liquid boils, and then pinching at the top, when enough liquid was removed (that's the difficult part - knowing how much is left), and then welding. The vapours of the boiling liquid will displace the air from the heat pipe. Instead, if you have a vacuum pump, you can add a slight excess of a liquid to the heat pipe and then vacuum it and seal it.
The very idea that you can make that extruder with so many parts, make it look so easy and make it without any instructions too is absolutely insanely ridiculous dude!
That whole assembly looks like it was designed by an extraterrestrial civilization 1000 years ahead of us, or an extremely capable Dutchman.
I wonder if Delrin sheet might work better due to the built in lubricity? Always love the ideas you bring, keep it coming!
I already bought Delrin sheets because of that! I want to combine it with carbon fiber parts for stiffness. I reckon that this will look very techy!
I cannot wait to see how that looks! @@properprinting
@@properprinting mmmmmh carbon fiiiiibreeeeeee
@@properprinting Laser cutting Delrin seems like a fun way to make some nasty fumes so be careful.
Going to laser cut already cured carbon fiber sheets? That would be siiick. Such a good visual effect and so sturdy.
Just FYI the amount of fluid in a heat pipe is tiny. Very little in there, and its usually under a low atmospheric pressure. It is almost always water as well.
Good to know! I was hoping to get that on camera that nothing was coming out, but it just worked xD
brother, I know I always repeat myself, but i am a proper fan big time !! Sick video again. Your movie making skill always impresses me. Keep being awesome and making stuff.
Thank you Simon!
It's always a good day if a Proper Printing video comes out. Enjoyed it, thanks!
yes this
Add an active cooler using a fairly large wattage thermoelectric device with a cold finger to cool the incoming TPU to stiffen it prior to it entering your extruder. It's mandatory to add more RGB LEDs on the TEC hot side fan though 😉
Clicked for the craziness, stayed for the insanely good production quality.
Have to say, that flexible filament is super extreme for any extruder. Great stuff!
I had this idea two years back, I even purchased cooling tubes! ready-to-use cooler..... respect on this!!!!
You deserve a lot more subscribers. Thanks for the work four years ago on improving the ender with belt driven dual lead screw. Very educational.
i love seeing the components scaled back up into something more mechanical looking.
I love this kind of engineering development. Great work and keep us up to date with your progress.
10/10 drilling a hole B roll. You got yourself a new subscriber.
You are one of the most AWESOME creators! I love your innovations and we need MORE of this in 3dprinting. Keep doing what you do!
A few things. Heat pipes require a certain heat load to reach their max efficiency, You can also buy them online so you don’t have to worry about work hardening as much as a pre-bent pipe.
Regardless, amazing work like always.
You're right and I want to design my own heat block and use individual heat pipes. The temperature range depends on the fluid that's being used. Methanol, ethanol or water is within the temperature range of this use case and I assumed that it must have been one of these fluids. No idea how efficient they are at which temperature though.
@@properprinting i love it =D you might try some thermalpaste in the thread its messy but should improve thermal cunduction
Yeah I think I saw Conrad Elektronik here in Germany (active EU wide) sell individual unbent heat pipes not at all too expensively in any number of sizes, already 20 years ago. I had some thoughts and plans but never got around to make a custom heatsink.
@@properprintingCould it work with peltier?
@@mtmtrx I haven't tested it, but from what I've heard this is too much hassle with almost no benefit. I was thinking about doing that, but ditched the plan.
That acrylic extruder looks soooooo good. I need one
Simple and effective, I wonder how this concept will develop. I'm really liking the direction you're going with this design. This new iteration of the extruder looks good, happy to see those flanged nuts worked out :)
These flanged nuts are a life saver! I'm also using them now in 3D printed parts. Thanks!
Man, you are doing brilliant. Its realy inspiring to see the progress on turning a cool and realistic idea into a real product. Thanks for your great contents.
Dit is echt supervet, blijf alsjeblieft zo doorgaan met zulke geweldige ideeën vezinnen en er goede video’s over maken!
That black light was a nice touch.
Sick as usual! Very cool concept to take a CPU cooler for a HE cooler! I'm surprised it didn't break when you bent it! Eager to see your next progress video!!
The editing on your videos is perfect.
Awesome video production you have cool cinematic shots and cool vibe music its pleasant to watch.
I have never seen such a beautiful hotend!
I really like this extruder and what you are doing.
I cant wait to purchase the exteuder kit, receive it, assemble it and mount it on my DIY 3D printer. 😊
Brilliant idea again! Soon it'll become industrial. Adding heatpipes even spares some metall mass on hotend radiator because it cools much stronger on the place needed instead of cooling a 5-7cm radiator pipe. Besides getting the radiator out of the main heating zone gets it cooler and simplifies the setup.
That extruder is a brilliant mechanical thing of complex *beauty.
*NOW with extra RGB 🙂 !
Congrats! 🎉 I love the extruder. Also your face expression when things actually work the first time... 😂
Fantastic stuff, Jon. I really love watching you tinker and develop; you think of stuff no one else does!
1:58.. annoyed that it didn’t break😂..That’s just One Of Many Folks.
The Subtext..The Symbolism…The Dark(and bright) comedy.. The Washing Machine commercial..
The subtle genius of this channel Never Fails to Bring a Smile!… A pretty big one.
I pulled out the piped/Copper Heatsink and Fans from my old laptop and thought of doing the the same!.. (6months Later, still in my box)😂
RAD🤙🏻
This is a really awesome video. I'm always excited to see your latest work pop up. Few issues means you might even be getting good at this. ;)
GZ on this working Extruder!
Cool idea with CPU Fan!
That is one insanely beautiful extruder/hotend! 😍
My Man, you have a great channel! I watch all these "channels" but this one I get excited for! With you, I see completely original concepts and ideas executed. That extruder assembly literally got me excited. I don't mean like that, lol. I want to build one like right now!!!
Frickin' awesome, as always! I love seeing the iterations you are going through and am quite impressed.
THIS is what I call functional art. Love all of it!
Man, I love watching each and every video you make. This project was so fun to see!
I love seeing what new crazy ideas come out of your head. Your videos are always entertaining.
Yay cool printer things!!
Interesting idea. You could also get heat pipes that are by themselves and attach them directly to the heat break. I suspect that might cause more clogs though.
Looks absolutely stunning.
Another amazing creation! I love your content, and your filming format is the best I've seen in the 3d printing content world. As always, I can't wait for the next video!!
Another great video! I always enjoy watching you try ideas that are different than anything else out there. Keep them coming!!
8:07 "This is a weird video." LMAO! Nice when something actually works. I hope you find a new challenge soon. Love the videos.
Very cool! Love the design, great job - looking forward to seeing the final product!
You are a breathe of fresh air. Always really cool seeing your vids
That assembled acrylic sure looks sexy. One easy thing to tweak; those free hanging copper pipes look cool but unless that heat sink is bolted onto something they are going to result in some low-ass resonant frequencies ringing all over your part.
Love the videos and good ideas. You should try one with flexible hose for the water cooler and a really bit heat sink and fan mounted to the printer frame. Less weight on the extruder and even better cooling. As long as you don't crimp the hose at least
I love that you were dumfounded that the project went too well🤣 it seemed like you were on the verge of an existential crisis
beautiful design, and excellent videos. By the way, drilling and tapping a hole in a badass edit is always fun to watch lol
This is a work of art! It looks beautiful
I know that TPU loves to be printed way slower than you would think... That's all it could be. It doesn't melt as fast as other materials, so that's why the slowness is needed. It's not about the extruder not pushing it hard enough. It's about the hotend turning it into liquid fast enough. If you go hotter, it might burn. But you can do testing in both ways.
The failure of the flex attempt may be related to the upper filament path. Since the friction of the flex material is very low, it should not get stuck anywhere, so even the positioning of the filament above might be good improvement.
Great ideas and exploration as always! If I can offer some constructive feedback, there were some moments in the video where the music was a bit too loud in the mix and made it harder to follow what you were saying.
Wait I love it. Really good and cheap DIY heat sink. Revo hotends go for like $100+ and you made one for less then half that
And it's also not that hard to make one!
I love how the one thing that went badly wasn't even part of your project
Outside the box engineering! I love it🤘
"It's turning in the right direction, this is a weird video" 😂😂🤣
Thank you for producing a great video. Open box ideas.
I see that block becoming quite popular 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Insanely awesome stuff - that content is art !
Thanks Albert!
Hoi buurman!, looks great! only thing i would look out for is the acrylic getting over 50c as it's going to get flexible and deform.
Wat een idee om het op deze manier te doen, gaaf ook dat het gewoon werkt , mooi project en leuke video
without watching the video i know its epic already 😊
Keep thinking outside of the box just the way you do. Great video!
I had talked with my coworkers about this concept, glad to see it tried out. I'm thinking that if you punctured the heat pipes when tapping the M4 hole, that their effectiveness would be greatly reduced. Would also be cool to have a thermocouple on the heat break to see the exact temp it was reaching and compare it to the stock setup.
Amazing projects every time 🎉 I hope to see you do more testing with it. Looks great 👍
That hot end is work of art! One might even as its a cool end. Iykyk😂
Looks very pretty!
Though you should look up the gamers Nexus factory tour about heatpipes...
Heatpipes literally contain at most a few drops of liquid which usually evaporate even in normal atmosphere, so even if you punctured 1 of the heatpipes you wouldn't notice it through any liquid spills...
Simple but novel idea. Your videos are always amazing. By far the best 3D printing channel.
A Proper Printing video where the main goal didn't go completely off the fucking rails?!? What universe is this?
No clue, this was weird!
Oh this looks cool
2023 RUclips is becoming good again. The fact that this video was recommended to me is awesome Finding lots of cool channels recently. Great video!
Nice to know that it showed in your recommended feed. Thanks!
My most stylish 3D printer will relocate onto the coffee table in the living room.
*Damn is this good looking*
The only thing that is missing to make this the fastest 3D printer besides the RGB is to paint the whole thing red and add some racing stripes 🤣
Hallo Jon, dit is weer een knap staaltje werk! Wat een geluk dat de koper pijpjes niet gescheurd zijn.
Ik ben wel benieuwd of er een beetje tempo in zit. De printer zelf kan aardig wat sneller met de originele hotend, met deze Revo moet het toch ook vlot kunnen. Mooi testje voor een volgende video? Hoe snel kan de Bambu met jouw constructie een benchy eruit persen?? En lukt aan de andere kant van het spectrum nylon of carbon? Je verzint vast wel iets leuks...
Ter afsluiting wil ik zeggen dat ik telkens geniet van de technische inhoud van je videos, maar zeker ook van die droge humormomentjes. Keep them coming!
There is a red copper in the middle of an athlon 64 cpu heatsink. The size is ideal for a hotend, you only need to drill and tap here and there with a bench drill.
Pymp mah Printer!
Sweet! And it printed 1st try without all the problems! Great job!
Keep em coming!!!!
It did and I definitely didn't expect that, thanks!
The extruder is a work of art :)
Great job. Its a masterpeace in technical aspect and it is art. Maybe for your next video, you have the chance to make a flir picture or video scene?
Thanks! Funny thing is that I am using a Flir camera for the upcoming video, but it will not be about this extruder. I made a short clip with the Flir of this extruder and it was indeed around 30 degrees, but decided not to use it because it didn't fit this video well enough.
@@properprinting cool. Thanks for this info. 30 degree means that this thing will work perfectly. Nice work
Nou godverdomme dat is hartstikke gaaf. Gefeliciteerd kerel met deze unieke hotend😍📶💪
These Heatpipes are filled with a really REALLY tiny amount of water (less then half a drop in each tube), and it's kept at a low pressure. Probably you wouldn't had notice if the tubes where ruptured at any point. Basically, the way it works is water boil at the hot side, and condenses at the cool side, condensed water stick to the walls and go back to the hot side by capillary action or something like that (I'm not an engineer or physicist, just a computer guy that knows a little about heatpipes).
I'm not sure, but the amount of heat that heatsink has to deal with in this project is really small, maybe just the copper tube itself may be enough to dissipate the heat. Also that cooler has a lot more heat mass too, compared to V6's heatsink, and that means it will take a lot longer to reach the cooler's max temperature (not the nozzle temperature, that is unrelated).
Should try having the filament under some light tension I've found that effective with soft tpu I also prime it first make sure it's got a good shot
Looks stunning!
You're a genius man... That thing is a work of art and it works pretty damn well! Brilliant video too, as in quality. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
A few well placed LEDs would make that thing shine! 🔆 👍👍
Even when failure occurs, you can be really proud of yourself ! The way it's coming all together is sick and the idea of using a computer heatsink is hilariously cool!
Do you think the hotend has to fight against the heat pipes and thus needs to work much harder than usual (and thereby use more energy) ?
Dat heb je weer mooi gemaakt, en ja 1,75 met afwijkingen door een precies 1,75 gat krijgen is een uitdaging. Kijk er naar uit dat die de TPU gaat printen :) en dan komt de proper printing hotend stuf op de markt? Zou hoop clogs schelen bij veel gebruikers. Liefst met een revo kit ;)
Very revealing. Very honest. Thank you.
what is in it is a miniscule amount of water in a near vacuum to aid in evaporation
I feel like this should become a real aftermarket product soon
This is work of art 🎇
wow this is a work of art!!!!!
I think the skipping was because the tpu is too grippy and it's sticking somewhere above the extruder belts causing it to pull and stretch the filament then skip. It should help to reduce friction above the extruder belts
It was buckling and I think that this was due to the square hole. Once the filament starts buckling, and with 60A this will happen fast, you're done.
10:45 For a second there I thought the purple ports was your fingers.