Hi there. Found you via Tinmans Saws. Ummm, not sure exactly how this will come across, but... Hg means Mercury, not Hydrogen. Other than that, I enjoy your videos. You are DOING, and I'm only watching. So you're doing WAY more than I'm doing. :-)
Hey there! Thanks for taking the time to comment, you're totally correct it's inches of mercury!! Thanks for pointing it out, brain went to mush when I was filming this I think!
Nice! Yea vac is definitely the only real way of testing your seals but pressure will tell you about everything else. Someone told me you coild set your air compressor mega mega low and just put a bit of pressure in that way but im not sure about that myself. Try putting the plastic air horn that goes from the filter to the carb on to pack it out abit to be able to get the carb bolts to fit properly. Also if your not sure about your spark plug thingy leaking. Put a normal spark plug in and use the impulse line to test it. Make sure you rotate the crank while its under pressure/vac as well because if the seals arent quite seated correctly the leak might show worse as it turns. In terms of the leak itself there is some tolerance for it. I totally agree if that case is under vacuum for a slit second how much can it really pull in? Sorry for the long comment! More waffle from Al.
Hey James, before you go hunting for lil vacuum leak boogers you'd be time ahead to pressure test the saw 1st to see if your block-off rubber pieces & spark plug inlet are ok - easier to see a pressure leak vs a vacuum leak...
So, if it was my saw I’d tear apart the oiler and look at the O-Ring and X-Ring on and behind it, I’d replace those and they are still available as an oem part if you need the part number I can get it for you. Also, if that fails I’d seal the crank seal carriers with moto seal or other fuel resistant sealant and try again, this is the one thing that pressure test are better at they can help show where leaks are with soapy water. Either way good luck and best wishes
I’d run that. But it could be leaking from behind the oil pump, where it seals to the case with a thin o-ring. Have you taken the oil pump out to change the crank seal in it? And pressure testing has its advantages that the leaky bits show more easy. You can also just use a bicycle pump for pressure testing. And when changing seals, I always change both at the same time just to be sure.
It should hold vacuum all day long ideally. Did you replace the oring around the oiler? That's a must and HAS to be the oem seal for exact size. I pressure and vac test every saw I rebuild and I'm not happy until theirs no movement on either. Sometimes it's just the set up, blanks etc. But without pressure your never find a leak any sense because you can't blow bubbles 😅
@@walkerscountrylife you could try the old brake cleaner whilst running trick and if it's around oiler then you could just silicon it around the ring for the mean time if it is. It's very easy to roll the spring on the PTO side especially if you don't sleeve the crank with beer can or film to get it over the step. 👍💪 I also pack the spring with grease on every seal to hold it in place that's another good trick
Good morning! Hope you're good🤙🤙
Hi there. Found you via Tinmans Saws. Ummm, not sure exactly how this will come across, but... Hg means Mercury, not Hydrogen. Other than that, I enjoy your videos.
You are DOING, and I'm only watching. So you're doing WAY more than I'm doing. :-)
Hey there! Thanks for taking the time to comment, you're totally correct it's inches of mercury!! Thanks for pointing it out, brain went to mush when I was filming this I think!
Nice! Yea vac is definitely the only real way of testing your seals but pressure will tell you about everything else. Someone told me you coild set your air compressor mega mega low and just put a bit of pressure in that way but im not sure about that myself.
Try putting the plastic air horn that goes from the filter to the carb on to pack it out abit to be able to get the carb bolts to fit properly.
Also if your not sure about your spark plug thingy leaking. Put a normal spark plug in and use the impulse line to test it.
Make sure you rotate the crank while its under pressure/vac as well because if the seals arent quite seated correctly the leak might show worse as it turns.
In terms of the leak itself there is some tolerance for it. I totally agree if that case is under vacuum for a slit second how much can it really pull in?
Sorry for the long comment! More waffle from Al.
Thanks for taking the time to write all that Al! Totally agree 👍 I'll get it in the end!
Hey James, before you go hunting for lil vacuum leak boogers you'd be time ahead to pressure test the saw 1st to see if your block-off rubber pieces & spark plug inlet are ok - easier to see a pressure leak vs a vacuum leak...
Thanks man, yeah I'll be firing some pressure in there for sure. Hope you're good.
So, if it was my saw I’d tear apart the oiler and look at the O-Ring and X-Ring on and behind it, I’d replace those and they are still available as an oem part if you need the part number I can get it for you. Also, if that fails I’d seal the crank seal carriers with moto seal or other fuel resistant sealant and try again, this is the one thing that pressure test are better at they can help show where leaks are with soapy water. Either way good luck and best wishes
Yeah I fitted the crank seals with a smidge of Moto seal. I didn't look at that O ring though.. I'll get back into her this week. I'll get there!
I coated the O ring behind the oil pump with motoseal on the one I rebuilt.
It sealed up even with the old as hell O ring lol.
I might have to do the same buddy. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I’d run that. But it could be leaking from behind the oil pump, where it seals to the case with a thin o-ring. Have you taken the oil pump out to change the crank seal in it?
And pressure testing has its advantages that the leaky bits show more easy. You can also just use a bicycle pump for pressure testing.
And when changing seals, I always change both at the same time just to be sure.
Thanks man, yeah did all that apart from the O ring.. I'll keep at it and get her in the end!
It should hold vacuum all day long ideally. Did you replace the oring around the oiler? That's a must and HAS to be the oem seal for exact size.
I pressure and vac test every saw I rebuild and I'm not happy until theirs no movement on either. Sometimes it's just the set up, blanks etc. But without pressure your never find a leak any sense because you can't blow bubbles 😅
Thanks for your help 👍 I didn't even look at that O ring. I'm not happy to run it like this.. will get some pressure in it!
@@walkerscountrylife you could try the old brake cleaner whilst running trick and if it's around oiler then you could just silicon it around the ring for the mean time if it is. It's very easy to roll the spring on the PTO side especially if you don't sleeve the crank with beer can or film to get it over the step. 👍💪
I also pack the spring with grease on every seal to hold it in place that's another good trick
Morning James, Vintage Engine Repairs the guy with an English accent who lives in Australia? He is helpful if you speak to him.
Morning Patrick! Yes that's the guy
8500. No question.
Thanks mate. Might be a bike pump for now.. but an 8500 is due for sure.
Check o ring around oil pump.
Thankyou, I will, I didn't even look at that.