💬COMMENT Any advice to get this to repairing these blades SUCCESSFULLY? ⭐SUBSCRIBE - Don't miss a thing! youtube.com/@CobbleCreekCabins?si=FOGAVQDl_KY62Bz4" 👍LIKE & SHARE ruclips.net/channel/UChnMH7OUSvCHxHISYKMyXNg 📽If you liked this video, CHECK out our PLAYLIST ruclips.net/p/PLtR3zUjTkE8-40hfom6fwlM5SYGLEfAg2
Interesting challenge. To start.... I'll say that I don't have "all the answers" but there has to be a way to make this work- You definitely need smaller filler wire. I would suggest slightly more heat; but moving faster (to reduce the heat-affected-zone). Along those lines; it makes me wonder if MIG, or pulsed TIG might give better results (fast penetration with low overall heat input). On filler selection: I'm not familiar with the inconel filler you tried, but ER70S2 is a good choice.... unless it is somehow becoming brittle after combining with the blade steel. I would be tempted to try 309L; or Aluminum Bronze, or silicon bronze (TIG brazing the last two) as flexibility/ductility may be a higher priority requirement for this application- Welding broken bandsaw blades may not really be a cost effective solution.....but I'd like to figure it out anyway. Keep us posted
I have welded a blade in the past that worked for a short while before failing. So I thought "what the heck" let's try it again. I worked in a small metal shop about 25 years ago and they had a metal band saw that had a welder on it. It used induction to heat and weld in one fail swoop no filler metal, very small heat affected weld zone. I bet accurate heat treatment would help. A agree that's it's probably not cost effective but challenging none the less. Good luck and thank you for the comment.
If the break is due to metal fatigue caused by bending then the whole length of the blade is brittle. So even if you do manage to successfully join it it's just going to snap somewhere else fairly quickly. What I've done to put bandsaw blades together is braze them. But there's a method to doing that to get it to work. Which is involved to describe but it's fairly easy to do. Works a heck of a lot better than I thought it would too. Braze is pretty strong. What you have to do is called a double scarf joint. That's done to maximize the surface area of the joint. Gives the braze a lot to grab onto. First you overlap the two ends of the blade and snip them at a shallow angle. About 35° or so. Then you feather each mating face on a grinder. About 15° Like they're skew chisels. Now you assemble everything with overlap and braze away. Smooth the mess you've made and you're done. I've always just used plain old brazing rod. Nothing special. But I'm fairly OK at brazing. You do have to get a good flow. Popcorn won't do. I use an oxy acetylene torch. Maybe another torch would work? I can't vouch for that.
I have welded blades back together and used them. Not sure if I’m just lucky, but I used a wire feed and kept the heat pretty low while I was welding. Burns through almost immediately, so you have to move pretty quick. Keeping them square is a whole other thing because they get pulled all over the place as you weld and then often develop a bit of a shudder when they get back on the mill. I have several hundred or maybe a thousand blades if anyone wants to try.
Same as with braising, I believe it would be difficult to get a good joint geometry with only .045" thickness. Having said that my experience with soldering is limited to knife work and plumbing. Thanks for the comment
Like maybe a 309 like dude said earlier. Probably throw some insulation on it after the annealing. We had to do that with P-91 welds to get the correct cooling rate after post weld heat treat.
Good advice on the flap/hard Rock heat input.. looks like ur using walter abrasives. I love the grinding discs and cut wheels but I haven't used their flaps.. you like?
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💬COMMENT
Any advice to get this to repairing these blades SUCCESSFULLY?
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youtube.com/@CobbleCreekCabins?si=FOGAVQDl_KY62Bz4"
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ruclips.net/channel/UChnMH7OUSvCHxHISYKMyXNg
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ruclips.net/p/PLtR3zUjTkE8-40hfom6fwlM5SYGLEfAg2
Anneal the welded area. Nice video! 👍🏻
Annealing! High carbon steel has embrittlement issues. So simple, thanks
Interesting challenge. To start.... I'll say that I don't have "all the answers" but there has to be a way to make this work- You definitely need smaller filler wire. I would suggest slightly more heat; but moving faster (to reduce the heat-affected-zone). Along those lines; it makes me wonder if MIG, or pulsed TIG might give better results (fast penetration with low overall heat input). On filler selection: I'm not familiar with the inconel filler you tried, but ER70S2 is a good choice.... unless it is somehow becoming brittle after combining with the blade steel. I would be tempted to try 309L; or Aluminum Bronze, or silicon bronze (TIG brazing the last two) as flexibility/ductility may be a higher priority requirement for this application-
Welding broken bandsaw blades may not really be a cost effective solution.....but I'd like to figure it out anyway. Keep us posted
I have welded a blade in the past that worked for a short while before failing. So I thought "what the heck" let's try it again. I worked in a small metal shop about 25 years ago and they had a metal band saw that had a welder on it. It used induction to heat and weld in one fail swoop no filler metal, very small heat affected weld zone. I bet accurate heat treatment would help. A agree that's it's probably not cost effective but challenging none the less. Good luck and thank you for the comment.
If the break is due to metal fatigue caused by bending then the whole length of the blade is brittle. So even if you do manage to successfully join it it's just going to snap somewhere else fairly quickly. What I've done to put bandsaw blades together is braze them. But there's a method to doing that to get it to work. Which is involved to describe but it's fairly easy to do. Works a heck of a lot better than I thought it would too. Braze is pretty strong. What you have to do is called a double scarf joint. That's done to maximize the surface area of the joint. Gives the braze a lot to grab onto. First you overlap the two ends of the blade and snip them at a shallow angle. About 35° or so. Then you feather each mating face on a grinder. About 15° Like they're skew chisels. Now you assemble everything with overlap and braze away. Smooth the mess you've made and you're done. I've always just used plain old brazing rod. Nothing special. But I'm fairly OK at brazing. You do have to get a good flow. Popcorn won't do. I use an oxy acetylene torch. Maybe another torch would work? I can't vouch for that.
A propane/oxy torch works nicely to braze steel with conventional brazing rod. Get the surfaces clean, then paste flux, and the joint will be good.
I have welded blades back together and used them. Not sure if I’m just lucky, but I used a wire feed and kept the heat pretty low while I was welding. Burns through almost immediately, so you have to move pretty quick. Keeping them square is a whole other thing because they get pulled all over the place as you weld and then often develop a bit of a shudder when they get back on the mill. I have several hundred or maybe a thousand blades if anyone wants to try.
I could see how drawing would be an issue with a mig gun
Scarf and silver solder
Same as with braising, I believe it would be difficult to get a good joint geometry with only .045" thickness. Having said that my experience with soldering is limited to knife work and plumbing. Thanks for the comment
Such a great work😊😊
Snap! What a great compliment. Thank you
You Have Guts!
Ya more guts than sense apparently 😁
Due to welding the carbon gets burned out of the material, anneal the weld after grinding for about 30 seconds on 5 to 600°.
Excellent, I'm going to give it a try when I get back to the shop. Thanks
Exactly. And let it cool down slowly. I've TIG velded smaller bands with succes. I might have used stainless filler, but I can't remember.
Like maybe a 309 like dude said earlier. Probably throw some insulation on it after the annealing. We had to do that with P-91 welds to get the correct cooling rate after post weld heat treat.
Best filler for welding is a piece of blade. 😂
Yeah, good luck with that!
Good advice on the flap/hard Rock heat input.. looks like ur using walter abrasives. I love the grinding discs and cut wheels but I haven't used their flaps.. you like?
Very much so, aggressive with minimal clogging.
I weld them with Mig,then anneal it with propane torch/70% success rate