I've been missing my drill press so much lately. Using the drill adapter in the mill takes forever to setup. So I'm motivated to get it done. Started modifying the spindle last night. Video may be up earlier than expected.
Ha! Thanks. I'm nothing if not persistent (and stubborn). Excited to see if it did me any good, when I get this back together. My round-column mill really benefited from the epoxy fill. I'm hoping it'll help overcome some of the inherent design flaws in a drill-press conversion.
I was looking into buying a mini mill to use for a couple of my hobbies I am into. You have given me a better solution than buying a mini mill. I especially like the use of the square tubing and filling with epoxy mix. The linear rails and bearings are also a better solution to having ways that would last longer but the rails and bearings are easy to replace. Thank you and cannot wait for part 2.
That's fantastic, thank you. I am going to do my best to have part 2 out before end of July. I need to build the head and film it which is what will hold me up. I'm looking forward to trying this out and seeing how it does.
I intend to use laminated thick yellow birch and 1/4" (6.3mm) AL 5052-H32 for mine, but one can also get laser cut plates (± .005" Typ) , CRS Flat Bars (much better tolerances as is vs HRS) probably between ± .001" to ± .009", often dead on. Or use aluminium extrusions, HSS and plates. 6061-T6 Rectangular tubes, plates, angles, channels, will likely be stiffer than chinesium cast iron anyway. Square corners for bolted and round for welded connections. Geometry (the shape, design and fastening of the frame) is often more important than material strength when it comes to stiffness. Almost all common tools for woodwork will machine aluminium, but not steel. A thin layer of epoxy, clear coat/paint or superglue will protect the aluminium from the ferrous metal connection.
I found your channel because of the original conversion. It was excellent then and it's even more excellenter (it's a word) now. Absurdity? Is there any better descriptor to use for doing something awesome? I think not. Keep up the great work.
when tramming the head... take a tip from setting up multi axis machines. youre referencing to the surface of the table, not to the slideways. proper method is use a ball on the table, a single point. by moving the table and clocking to the ball you are referencing the actual slideways as that point will always be the same relative height. tramming the tabletop makes the assumption that the slides are actually parallel... clock to a ball and then tram the table and you know if the table needs surfacing.
Many thanks to @metalmusings for doing the legwork and providing the recipe for the epoxy granite. If you haven't seen his channel, check it out.
Speaking as someone who has a drill press and wishes it was a mill, I'm impressed.
Really enjoyed your video
So the answer is “more steel and granite epoxy”. Seems reasonably overkill 💪🏼
Looking forward to part 2 and seeing it in use! Love your content.
I've been missing my drill press so much lately. Using the drill adapter in the mill takes forever to setup. So I'm motivated to get it done. Started modifying the spindle last night. Video may be up earlier than expected.
Kudos for your persistence!
Ha! Thanks. I'm nothing if not persistent (and stubborn). Excited to see if it did me any good, when I get this back together. My round-column mill really benefited from the epoxy fill. I'm hoping it'll help overcome some of the inherent design flaws in a drill-press conversion.
Excellent and interesting as usual RA
Dude you are really going deep on that mod, i gave up on modding my drill press and bought a Sieg Mini mill hehe. Nice video!
Right on
Noice
I was looking into buying a mini mill to use for a couple of my hobbies I am into. You have given me a better solution than buying a mini mill. I especially like the use of the square tubing and filling with epoxy mix. The linear rails and bearings are also a better solution to having ways that would last longer but the rails and bearings are easy to replace. Thank you and cannot wait for part 2.
That's fantastic, thank you. I am going to do my best to have part 2 out before end of July. I need to build the head and film it which is what will hold me up. I'm looking forward to trying this out and seeing how it does.
Very nice work sir
I've watched Blondiehacks' 40 part (so-far) series on model steam trains that isn't even half-way finished. 2 parts is **NOTHING**
A fellow person of culture, I see
At least Blondiehacks video is progressing forward nicely. Been waiting 7 years for Clickspring to finish the Antikythera build.
I intend to use laminated thick yellow birch and 1/4" (6.3mm) AL 5052-H32 for mine, but one can also get laser cut plates (± .005" Typ) , CRS Flat Bars (much better tolerances as is vs HRS) probably between ± .001" to ± .009", often dead on.
Or use aluminium extrusions, HSS and plates. 6061-T6 Rectangular tubes, plates, angles, channels, will likely be stiffer than chinesium cast iron anyway. Square corners for bolted and round for welded connections.
Geometry (the shape, design and fastening of the frame) is often more important than material strength when it comes to stiffness. Almost all common tools for woodwork will machine aluminium, but not steel.
A thin layer of epoxy, clear coat/paint or superglue will protect the aluminium from the ferrous metal connection.
This all sounds like a really good plan.
I found your channel because of the original conversion. It was excellent then and it's even more excellenter (it's a word) now. Absurdity? Is there any better descriptor to use for doing something awesome? I think not. Keep up the great work.
Wow, thank you!
when tramming the head... take a tip from setting up multi axis machines.
youre referencing to the surface of the table, not to the slideways.
proper method is use a ball on the table, a single point.
by moving the table and clocking to the ball you are referencing the actual slideways as that point will always be the same relative height.
tramming the tabletop makes the assumption that the slides are actually parallel...
clock to a ball and then tram the table and you know if the table needs surfacing.
This is really good advice. I'll give it a go. Thank you.