So in order to warranty this unit, Senville states the following on their warranty website: **Pressure test and Evacuation of the line sets must be handled by a licensed HVAC professional**(Copy/pasted directly here). That gives you two issues here: 1) Pressure test and evacuation. While you did the Evac, you did not do a pressure test (nitrogen fill and decay test). 2) licensed HVAC professional. I hope Senville did tell you all this before having you push the products onto your viewers? Love your channel. Just letting you know....
That’s true of all of these cheaper units. For better or worse, these units are so cheap that you would just buy a new one if you had problems you couldn’t fix yourself. The cost of having a professional do the install plus even one service call will probably cost more than just buying a new unit.
Hey im a hvac technician I’ve so many vacuums and they way we do things is when doing a system installation after running are lineset we pressurize and système with 500 psig of nitrogen for 15 minutes If the pressure does not go down more then 1 psig after 15 then we are ok. During that time it’s good to check with soap on your flare joints for leaks For the vaccum itself you had a vaccum pump great but what would have been excellent would have been a micron gauge that is connected before the manifold the dial on the manifold set is not accurate at all it’s just there to show if your vaccum is pulling after that it’s all on the vaccum gauge. On a system your size going through the manifold through 1/4 hoses with valve core depressors you should get 300-400 microns without 30 minutes but the lower the better. Once satisfied with the micron value you close your manifold and close the pump and this is were your decay test comes in. Here we want to see if your vaccum can hold its value for 7 minutes without going above 1000 microns. If that’s good then you can go ahead with opening your service valves. Hope this helps if you have any questions please feel free to comment here
I typically do nitrogen at 400 psi maybe I should move to 500psi The daiken units I installed wanted 500microns or less so I typically take it to 200-300 depends how long the lineset is and how patient I am… Also pretty sure you are not supposed to put nylog on the threads only on the flares…
@@anthonysalazar6647Qualified HVAC guy here. Don't follow this clowns approach to testing/ commissioning. This whole vid is a mess. Massive risk of environmental damage (leak testing with onboard refrigerant is insane) and problems down the line (not pulling repeated vacuums before filling).
@@fiberartistsupplycoQualified HVAC guy here. Don't follow this clowns approach to testing/ commissioning. This whole vid is a mess. Massive risk of environmental damage (leak testing with onboard refrigerant, not pressure testint) and problems down the line (not pulling repeated vacuums before filling).
enjoyed your video & very impressed with the workshop cleanliness & organization. I have a unique application whereby I can only use floor air handlers into two above the garage bedrooms. I need to feed the line-sets through an uninsulated 20inch garage ceiling to upper floor cavity without hitiing any of the plumbing, wiring & sprinkler system feeds randomly scattered across the ceiling.
Hope you’re doing ok and your family was not severely impacted by the storm. Seeing a lot of devastation in Asheville. Hopefully the shop survived the storm as well.
Mostly solid work, but you can’t use Romex in conduit in wet locations, aka outdoors. You should use individual conductors like THHN or just rip the coat and paper off the Romex installing it naked throughout the conduit.
The NEC does say you cannot use Romex in wet locations unless UF rated. Check 334.12 (b) (4). He used liquid tight conduit, so he is not outdoors, and he is not below grade.
Awesome video man, just one critique to guarantee better success in the future. You really need to use a micron gauge and pull that vacuum down below 500 microns at a minimum. That gauge manifold isn’t telling you anything useful at -30psig. 410a systems use Poe oil which is hygroscopic and the moisture remaining in the lines will inevitably cause issues down the line from acidity. Everything else you did seemed solid. Better than some fellow hvac technicians I know tbh. Just make sure to pull that vacuum down as deep as humanly possible next time using a micron gauge!🤘🏼
I'm thinking done, this channel has stopped making things, I don't get it. Every video is shop tour, tool review, mini split install. The shop and mini house builds were interesting construction playlists, but just make some stuff.
Love your videos! Just a heads up, pulling a vacuum isn’t a test in itself. It’s for removing air and moisture. To test the pipework, you need to pressurise with oxygen free nitrogen to around 36bar.
Nope. The vaccum is enough to test for leaks, but it has to be left at - 30 for several hours. It's actually normal for the pressure to increase slightly in the first few minutes. The nitrogen at 36 bar is used in conjunction with a control solution to find out where the leak is.
@@luciflash Sorry but that is not correct. Vacuum is to remove air and moisture. Yes, you carry out a decay test but a soundness / tightness test is done with oxygen free nitrogen. Depending on the system refrigerant type, this can be anywhere from 250 to 450psi. 450psi is far higher than 30" of vacuum
Nylog on the threads of the line set and service valves will not prevent leaks you have to put the nylog on the face of the flare that’s where the seal happens, if it’s leaks it will leak where the line goes through the flare nut not the treads
The tool you need that will save you really is a adjustable torque wrench. Vacuum pumps can be rented at auto parts stores. Seen HVAC gauges at yard sales. Get the right one for intended refrigeratant. But when the question is ask. Did you torque to spec? And NO is answered. Warranty void or you just lost the lawsuit.
Gonna call it before you show but yes, it will. The only step missed her was not pressure testing with nitrogen and those leak bubbles before pulling a vacuum. If you're using the bubbles when after you put the gas in, you're still gonna need to call a technician to replace the gas that is leaking. A step in the right direction.
You should pressurize your system with nitrogen prior to vacuuming to 350 psi then vacuum when vacuuming you should be using a micron vacuum gauge and pulling down to less than 500 microns and then perform a decay test
I enjoyed and followed the installation..... I saw how you used the vacuum pump to check for LEAKS (but when did you FILL the empty flex lines with REFRIGERANT ? ) thank you
Some info: - Vacuum pump is to remove air and moisture from the lines and prevent early failure in years, often its a warranty requirement. - Vacuum is not to find leaks, -0.8 bar or so vs 20 bar of nitrogen pressure is not the same, slow leaks that empty the system in a year can be only found with high pressure and foaming agent. - As far as I know even in US a license is required, so legal issues might happen ... You can diy this, but then use proper procedures, they are not only to rip off customers
@@n9wox In the US, EPA Section 608 type II certification is mandatory for technicians including homeowners maintaining, servicing, or repairing mini split ac systems
Okay hold the phone... no difference on your electricity bill? My MrCool ceiling cassette RAPES my electric bill for my 400 sqft florida garage and I just had a brand new insulated garage door on too. I was monitoring and seeing a 30% uptick on my electric usage.
I do believe you need to check your code for wiring installed through a conduit?? I was told that you should not use Romex in conduit?? Just an FYI…. That came to me from a licensed electrical contractor friend here in Florida.
NM cable (Romex) in a conduit is OK, but only when the conduit is in a dry location. NM cable is prohibited in wet locations (NEC 334.12(B)(4)), and the interior of a conduit in a wet location is considered a wet location (NEC 300.9). So the use of NM cable in the outdoor conduit shown in the video is an NEC violation. Individual wet location rated conductors should have been used, just like he did on the load side of the disconnect.
Omg. You're checking for leaks by using the on-board, likely environmentally damaging refrigerant... This after messing up the vac test because you didn't manage the simple task of fixing the pipes properly. What about the moisture in the air in the lines? What, pray tell, were you going to do it you found a leak on the refrigerant? If you can't be bothered getting trained and tested to handle this kit properly don't put out videos encouraging others to do so.
So in order to warranty this unit, Senville states the following on their warranty website: **Pressure test and Evacuation of the line sets must be handled by a licensed HVAC professional**(Copy/pasted directly here). That gives you two issues here:
1) Pressure test and evacuation. While you did the Evac, you did not do a pressure test (nitrogen fill and decay test).
2) licensed HVAC professional.
I hope Senville did tell you all this before having you push the products onto your viewers?
Love your channel. Just letting you know....
That’s true of all of these cheaper units. For better or worse, these units are so cheap that you would just buy a new one if you had problems you couldn’t fix yourself. The cost of having a professional do the install plus even one service call will probably cost more than just buying a new unit.
I noticed that he didn't pressure test either. And really should have pulled down to microns, not just a spot on the gauges...
And it looked like he left lineset still rolled up!! He could have gotten a cleaner install...
Nothing related to this video but following the news coming out of Asheville. Hoping you and your friends and family are safe. ❤
Hey im a hvac technician I’ve so many vacuums and they way we do things is when doing a system installation after running are lineset we pressurize and système with 500 psig of nitrogen for 15 minutes
If the pressure does not go down more then 1 psig after 15 then we are ok. During that time it’s good to check with soap on your flare joints for leaks
For the vaccum itself you had a vaccum pump great but what would have been excellent would have been a micron gauge that is connected before the manifold the dial on the manifold set is not accurate at all it’s just there to show if your vaccum is pulling after that it’s all on the vaccum gauge.
On a system your size going through the manifold through 1/4 hoses with valve core depressors you should get 300-400 microns without 30 minutes but the lower the better.
Once satisfied with the micron value you close your manifold and close the pump and this is were your decay test comes in.
Here we want to see if your vaccum can hold its value for 7 minutes without going above 1000 microns. If that’s good then you can go ahead with opening your service valves.
Hope this helps if you have any questions please feel free to comment here
I typically do nitrogen at 400 psi maybe I should move to 500psi
The daiken units I installed wanted 500microns or less so I typically take it to 200-300 depends how long the lineset is and how patient I am…
Also pretty sure you are not supposed to put nylog on the threads only on the flares…
I've been very happy with mine. I also bought an eccentric tube flaring tool to change the length of the line set which wasn't too difficult to do.
Good to see you mount the outdoor condenser off the ground and cover your line set many do not do that and they have several problems because of it
Yay I literally just bought this and had install questions! Thank you!!!!
@@anthonysalazar6647Qualified HVAC guy here. Don't follow this clowns approach to testing/ commissioning. This whole vid is a mess. Massive risk of environmental damage (leak testing with onboard refrigerant is insane) and problems down the line (not pulling repeated vacuums before filling).
@@anthonysalazar6647 oh. And he didn't bother pressure testing anything.... Lol.
Checking on you man! Praying y'all are safe!
So glad this isn’t another Mr cool ad!
Perfect timing! Installing my 1st soon. Thanks!
@@fiberartistsupplycoQualified HVAC guy here. Don't follow this clowns approach to testing/ commissioning. This whole vid is a mess. Massive risk of environmental damage (leak testing with onboard refrigerant, not pressure testint) and problems down the line (not pulling repeated vacuums before filling).
Great work, Johnny! 😊
But yeah, it's not fun to work with all the heat!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Oh brother, it's a bloodbath in the comments
Right. People are so rude.
enjoyed your video & very impressed with the workshop cleanliness & organization.
I have a unique application whereby I can only use floor air handlers into two above the garage bedrooms. I need to feed the line-sets through an uninsulated 20inch garage ceiling to upper floor cavity without hitiing any of the plumbing, wiring & sprinkler system feeds randomly scattered across the ceiling.
Great work
Hey just making sure you’re ok with the storm
Hope you’re doing ok and your family was not severely impacted by the storm. Seeing a lot of devastation in Asheville. Hopefully the shop survived the storm as well.
Mostly solid work, but you can’t use Romex in conduit in wet locations, aka outdoors. You should use individual conductors like THHN or just rip the coat and paper off the Romex installing it naked throughout the conduit.
The NEC does say you cannot use Romex in wet locations unless UF rated. Check 334.12 (b) (4). He used liquid tight conduit, so he is not outdoors, and he is not below grade.
These mini split videos must be pretty lucrative because they are all over the place. How does Mr Cool feel about this? Haha
Awesome video man, just one critique to guarantee better success in the future. You really need to use a micron gauge and pull that vacuum down below 500 microns at a minimum. That gauge manifold isn’t telling you anything useful at -30psig. 410a systems use Poe oil which is hygroscopic and the moisture remaining in the lines will inevitably cause issues down the line from acidity. Everything else you did seemed solid. Better than some fellow hvac technicians I know tbh. Just make sure to pull that vacuum down as deep as humanly possible next time using a micron gauge!🤘🏼
Finally a 11th mini split vid
How many more mini split is he gonna do?
I'm thinking done, this channel has stopped making things, I don't get it.
Every video is shop tour, tool review, mini split install. The shop and mini house builds were interesting construction playlists, but just make some stuff.
@@jcdrake01man, these free content vids are so difficult, huh?
@@jcdrake01 I like this channel but the last shop tour was insane, basically one solid ad
Hope you're doing ok after Helene. My wife always makes us get our bike helmets on when storms come through.
Love your videos! Just a heads up, pulling a vacuum isn’t a test in itself. It’s for removing air and moisture. To test the pipework, you need to pressurise with oxygen free nitrogen to around 36bar.
Nope. The vaccum is enough to test for leaks, but it has to be left at - 30 for several hours. It's actually normal for the pressure to increase slightly in the first few minutes.
The nitrogen at 36 bar is used in conjunction with a control solution to find out where the leak is.
@@luciflash Sorry but that is not correct. Vacuum is to remove air and moisture. Yes, you carry out a decay test but a soundness / tightness test is done with oxygen free nitrogen. Depending on the system refrigerant type, this can be anywhere from 250 to 450psi. 450psi is far higher than 30" of vacuum
Vacuum is a must when soldering/brazing the lineset. Pressure testing is a must to keep the warranty.
Never seen a disconnect so high! Also for future reference you can run Romex through conduit
Do I really need a adjustable torque wrench?
I didn’t saw you using it.
Thanks in advanced for your reply.
Nice video mate! Keep up the awesome work 👍
Is there a possibility you’d look at insulating your garage door?
Looking at doing that myself.
How about surge protection to protect the units main boards which are expensive. I found out the hard way
Nylog on the threads of the line set and service valves will not prevent leaks you have to put the nylog on the face of the flare that’s where the seal happens, if it’s leaks it will leak where the line goes through the flare nut not the treads
it is also easy to over tighten with nylog on the threads
@@itsokay2923 good point that’s why you should use a torque wrench
I love your videos.💯
The tool you need that will save you really is a adjustable torque wrench.
Vacuum pumps can be rented at auto parts stores. Seen HVAC gauges at yard sales. Get the right one for intended refrigeratant.
But when the question is ask.
Did you torque to spec?
And NO is answered. Warranty void or you just lost the lawsuit.
Gonna call it before you show but yes, it will. The only step missed her was not pressure testing with nitrogen and those leak bubbles before pulling a vacuum. If you're using the bubbles when after you put the gas in, you're still gonna need to call a technician to replace the gas that is leaking. A step in the right direction.
How do you know?
At 8:13 did you say “Which IS what’s supposed to happen” or did you way “Which ISN’T what’s supposed to happen”? I just can’t tell.
You should pressurize your system with nitrogen prior to vacuuming to 350 psi then vacuum when vacuuming you should be using a micron vacuum gauge and pulling down to less than 500 microns and then perform a decay test
Anyone know if Johnny and his family are safe?
Damn these split is so expensive in USA. Here is South East Asia prices start from $200-250 for LG, Samsung, Sharp if another brand unit.
I enjoyed and followed the installation..... I saw how you used the vacuum pump to check for LEAKS (but when did you FILL the empty flex lines with REFRIGERANT ? ) thank you
Condenser comes pre charged with refrigerant. He released it when using the hex keys.
Hopefully your workshop survived Hurricane Helene
What a handsome man!
Jhonny what are your eyes colour?
Some info:
- Vacuum pump is to remove air and moisture from the lines and prevent early failure in years, often its a warranty requirement.
- Vacuum is not to find leaks, -0.8 bar or so vs 20 bar of nitrogen pressure is not the same, slow leaks that empty the system in a year can be only found with high pressure and foaming agent.
- As far as I know even in US a license is required, so legal issues might happen ...
You can diy this, but then use proper procedures, they are not only to rip off customers
A license for what?
@@n9wox In the US, EPA Section 608 type II certification is mandatory for technicians including homeowners maintaining, servicing, or repairing mini split ac systems
@@Gaborkik Section 608 says "maintain, service, repair, or dispose", but nothing about installing.
@@Gaborkik similar in UK. Handling of/access to refrigerant is restricted to those that have been properly qualified.
Cries in English house
Okay hold the phone... no difference on your electricity bill? My MrCool ceiling cassette RAPES my electric bill for my 400 sqft florida garage and I just had a brand new insulated garage door on too. I was monitoring and seeing a 30% uptick on my electric usage.
I do believe you need to check your code for wiring installed through a conduit?? I was told that you should not use Romex in conduit?? Just an FYI…. That came to me from a licensed electrical contractor friend here in Florida.
NM cable (Romex) in a conduit is OK, but only when the conduit is in a dry location. NM cable is prohibited in wet locations (NEC 334.12(B)(4)), and the interior of a conduit in a wet location is considered a wet location (NEC 300.9). So the use of NM cable in the outdoor conduit shown in the video is an NEC violation. Individual wet location rated conductors should have been used, just like he did on the load side of the disconnect.
I’ll stick with Mr. Cool.
Omg. You're checking for leaks by using the on-board, likely environmentally damaging refrigerant... This after messing up the vac test because you didn't manage the simple task of fixing the pipes properly. What about the moisture in the air in the lines? What, pray tell, were you going to do it you found a leak on the refrigerant? If you can't be bothered getting trained and tested to handle this kit properly don't put out videos encouraging others to do so.
And now for the question on everyone's lips, (well, mine at least), can you use the vacuum as a veneer press vacuum?