What I like? The true life! You share all, successes and mistakes. It shows how a simple drain installation can bring complications and difficulties. The good news is: You always find a good solutions. Thanks to share.
Welcome Aboard Daniel😁 I’m so happy you get something out of the videos. It’s great to know that people appreciate the way I try do things differently in the Boat Werks 👍😁 thanks again
I've remodeled a few bathrooms in houses. The caulk is the weak point. I'd try to recreate what you cut off like a z flashing so water has no path down between that edge. Unless you're using an epoxy. Great work!
When we had our bathroom redone, the new tub was a little short (or the space was a little big), so they cut off the lip on one end of the tub. They butted the tiles on the wall to the edge of the tub, but there was no lip behind the tiles. Bad idea. Water got through that crack and damaged the ceiling below. I discovered what they had done after investigating the water source. I put generous caulk in there, and that stopped the leaking. I've kept up with caulking since then, and it's held up OK. But I can't take my eye off the caulking.
The problem with epoxying the pan in place is that then it cant be removed if there’s ever an issue. So the solution will be mounting with PL Marine and then PVc trim pieces mounted same to finish off.
To enlarge a hole that’s been drilled with a hole saw use the same size hole saw, same as the hole that’s there, and cut a disc from a piece of plywood put the disc in the existing hole and then use it to center the larger hole saw. Once the larger saw starts cutting it will be even all the way around the smaller hole. I use it all the time when installing new larger diameter gauges into existing console holes
Just for future reference, if you put the drill in reverse it is a lot less likely to tear the plastic. The same way carpenters turn their saw blades backwards when cutting plastic.
oooo…not sure how your caulk joint is going to adequately keep water out , even though it’s raised from the floor, without that lip, and tucked behind the shower wall…i think i’ve just been snake bit when it comes to water proofing shower stalls…perhaps a bit hyper vigilant ? …hope she works for you!…
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What I like? The true life! You share all, successes and mistakes. It shows how a simple drain installation can bring complications and difficulties. The good news is: You always find a good solutions. Thanks to share.
Great to hear from you Jefferson! Thanks so much😁 I’m glad you enjoy the videos 👍😁
I agree, your channel has more practical solutions and thoughts than most. I really enjoy watching you work through a problem.
Welcome Aboard Daniel😁 I’m so happy you get something out of the videos. It’s great to know that people appreciate the way I try do things differently in the Boat Werks 👍😁 thanks again
Good god this channel rules
Welcome Aboard👍😁 and thanks for the comment
Nice work and great explanation!
Thank you Russell😎👍
Some hole saw arbors have long enough threads that you can screw inside the hole saw you want with one that fits the hole you have.
Brilliant! That’s what I need 😁👍Thanks Dave
OK, we're making progress. Finally, some hardware - not just sanding! I'm looking forward to seeing where you get access to the plumbing below.
I feel the same way Charles !😁👍
Well done Joe. I'll be interested to see if you get away without a sump.
It’s coming up in the next episode Joe 😁
Great channel Joe!
Thank you Doug!👍😁
I've remodeled a few bathrooms in houses. The caulk is the weak point. I'd try to recreate what you cut off like a z flashing so water has no path down between that edge. Unless you're using an epoxy. Great work!
Thanks Sebastian! Be sure to subscribe 😁
When we had our bathroom redone, the new tub was a little short (or the space was a little big), so they cut off the lip on one end of the tub. They butted the tiles on the wall to the edge of the tub, but there was no lip behind the tiles. Bad idea. Water got through that crack and damaged the ceiling below. I discovered what they had done after investigating the water source. I put generous caulk in there, and that stopped the leaking. I've kept up with caulking since then, and it's held up OK. But I can't take my eye off the caulking.
Luckily the entire head area is made of coosa board and fiberglass so I think we’ll be ok
That was my only worry. As a home improvement contractor. But like Joe said since there is nothing to rot ……. And I’m with the epoxy instead of caulk
The problem with epoxying the pan in place is that then it cant be removed if there’s ever an issue. So the solution will be mounting with PL Marine and then PVc trim pieces mounted same to finish off.
To enlarge a hole that’s been drilled with a hole saw use the same size hole saw, same as the hole that’s there, and cut a disc from a piece of plywood put the disc in the existing hole and then use it to center the larger hole saw. Once the larger saw starts cutting it will be even all the way around the smaller hole. I use it all the time when installing new larger diameter gauges into existing console holes
Thanks James 👍😁 this is an interesting idea. But from experience not as successful as you would think. And not applicable in many situations.
Just for future reference, if you put the drill in reverse it is a lot less likely to tear the plastic. The same way carpenters turn their saw blades backwards when cutting plastic.
🐙 ok 👌 Do you know where they sell the backwards saw blades at the hardware store?
Thanks for the comment Charles 🤓
oooo…not sure how your caulk joint is going to adequately keep water out , even though it’s raised from the floor, without that lip, and tucked behind the shower wall…i think i’ve just been snake bit when it comes to water proofing shower stalls…perhaps a bit hyper vigilant ? …hope she works for you!…
😏
Measure twice caulk once........🙃
Exactly 😁