Searching For The Best Tudor & Rolex Submariner + My Grail Leather Jacket: Belstaff V Racer
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- It doesn't get more Urban Gentry than this! Today we return to the quintessential roots of the channel's first topics-a mix of classic British sartorial, watch, and lifestyle content, with some classic New York City backdrops along the way. In this video I share my current predicament in terms of trying to decide on my next Submariner, while looking at watches from both Tudor and Rolex. I discuss what to look for in the absolute best, most revered models from both brands, and how my parallel journey towards my grail watch, the Breguet Tradition, factors in. And speaking of highly sought-after pieces, I also discuss the best leather racing jacket-my outerwear grail from Belstaff. Join me for some cultural essentials as well, including current books I'm enjoying, and music I'm rediscovering. And if you missed it, I share a sneak peek of the Rangemaster II-the latest Islander x The Urban Gentry collaboration, and the third watch in the Rangemaster collection, landing soon! What do you think about the watches in this video? Please share in the comments.
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#watchcollector #watchcollecting #rolex #tudor #belstaff #nivadagrenchen #breguet
With this jacket, I believe you have finally reached your goal of becoming a Bond villain.
🤣🤣🤣👏👏👏 Come, come, Mr. Motaman, you derive as much pleasure from a nice Jacket as I do.
Thank you.
Best regards
TGV
Big fan of your channel! as a motorcyclist of 43 years i have extensively researched motorcycle clothing. just wanted to point out that steve Mcqueen never wore Belstaff! The photo you show is often credited as a trialmaster but it was actually a Barbour International jacket, the construction of the map pocket gives it away. The International was derived from WW2 navy uniform made by Barbour and they introduced it as a bike jacket in i think 1948. following its great success Belstaff copied it and named it the Trialmaster for the 1949 season. Belstaff jackets were popular because as they were just lower spec copies of Barbour they were much cheaper and so more affordable to cash strapped bikers. I think they went out of business in the late 1980s and the rights were taken over initially by an Italian fashion brand in the early 2000s, I believe its back in British ownership now though. Mcqueen would always stop off in London at the Barbour shop and buy new International jackets for himself and his team mates whenever he competed in the ISDT. Neither brand really bothered with external branding back then so it is easy to mix them both up as one is an almost carbon copy of the other.
Didn’t want to say it! 😂
Umm..."I like Turtles."
Clearly a man who knows his onions!
@@squirelova1815 ??
@@denis888red ??
Love the mixed-up lifestyle content, well done, hello from cape town!
I have to thank you for this video. I wasn't very familiar with Belstaff, but based on this video, took a look and bought their Roberts jacket. It's a biker jacket, but waxed. I wanted an alternative to my leather jacket, and I'm very happy with it! I haven't been this satisfied with a new jacket for some twelve years. It looks rugged, yet suitable to wear to work on a Friday (basically because it's the kind of jacket 007 would wear!). It's perfect. The cuffs are a little tight (they're too loose if I adjust them) for a bulky watch, but just about OK with a B01 41mm Navitimer. So thanks...Your channel is doing exactly what it's meant to do!
Hey TGV! I'm a big fan of your style videos with a wider aperture beyond just the watches. Keep 'em coming!
There are three types of watch collectors. The type that own vintage speedy and submariner, the type that want to own them, and the type that are in denial about wanting them. Admiration from a distance is just prolonging the inevitable. 😂
16:43 “…the pulled muscles in my face from so many yawns” CLASSIC! : )
Just so entertaining. I am in no position to make sartorial comments but I do like when you vids offer a change of pace from a straight up watch review. Great stuff.
For some reason I had 4 dreams about your new watch last night. One that your new watch was selling at O'Reilly's auto parts, second you invited me over to see you put one together' third I saw a video you putting it together with different people in a video, fourth I was on a fantastic adventure vacation wearing it. I think it happened because it was the last video before I went to bed. 😅
🤣🤣🤣👏👏👏 That is awesome and crazy at the same time, thank you for sharing that.
Best regards,
TGV
Bang on jacket. I got to learn about Belstaff! I own a Hein Gericke 2-piece moto suit from 1990. A very similar cut and style. More purpose crafted of course. But love the V-Racer's daily wearability.
The noise you made when you saw the pointed crownguards says it all, haha!
Back when I rode, one of my riding pals wore Belstaff - quality riding gear. The pizza from Italy is truly amazing. But I still love genuine NYC pizza - harder to find now than it was when I was growing up in the Bronx in the 1960s. Back then, you got it by the slice at pizzerias found on almost every block in the city. Sprinkle on oregano, fold in half and taste a slice of heaven. The hot oil burned the roof of your mouth. You either know what I'm talking about or you don't have a clue...And get that 5513 - it is beyond iconic and one of the best Subs of all time. Cheers!
14:57 Ahhh Susumu Yokota's "Sakura" utterly class choice. His album "Symbol" will be on rotation for me the rest of my life.
That 5513 you have is absolutely perfect. The perfect amount of patina with the slight ghost bezel. That’s my dream
Great timing! I have recently been shopping for a cafe racer with a cut that isn’t for a pregnant woman. (Even the designer brand COACH, with an otherwise great execution, was cut for the rotund! 😞)
I completely forgot about Belstaff! Thanks for reminding me about the iconic brand. I might go with a Langlitz for a bespoke cut, since I live in driving distance from their shop. Enjoy your leathers!
Very interesting, informative and enjoyable video as usual, TGV . . . your channel is head and shoulders above any other watch channel out there. To be honest, the jacket segment passed me by as clothing has never been remotely of interest to me but, whatever, would you ever consider putting out an episode devoted to watch straps . . . leather vs bracelet vs NATO vs silicone etc. I only ask as straps can not only make or break the look of a watch but they can also help you to fall in love with a watch all over again. Thanks again!
2:11 your styling here is immaculate 👌🏿
I really enjoy the lifestyle and sartorial content. Thank you for giving it a whirl again. What a sport you are
thank you for another fun informative and stylish video for me i love my barbour steve mcqueen 1964 jacket perfect with my hanhart 😊
ive just returned from a month in switzerland, i made my way south into bellinzona where i grabbed some italian made boots. highly recommend that city 👌 (in fact highly considering moving near there) i did not buy a watch as i spent too much on a couple new suits... enjoyed the video btw, pure class as usual.
Same!! Got my 126603 & Trialmaster. They just work so well together for me.
Bill Evans’ treatment of Nardis over the years, especially after his diagnosis, is an incredible episode of creative genius. There’s an article with live performances linked, it’s pretty mind blowing what he wanted to get on vinyl before his death.
Thank you so much, I am certainly going to look into that!
I adore gems like that,
Best regards,
TGV
Always a fan of the Harrington jacket I purchased a private white one 5 years ago after watching your video. It’s my favourite jacket.
Pure class my friend. It is timeless, enjoy and thank you for sharing that. I always finding it inspiring to read comments like this. Onwards, upwards and best regards!
TGV
Belstaff are great jackets, well done. Your Tudor is nothing short of amazing, I really think your a Tudor guy. One thing to remember "comparison is the thief of joy" Be well
Excellent video. I really appreciate your work. It’s very clear that you enjoy making this content. I know something of this quality doesn’t come at the snap of a finger. Thanks for sharing! ✌🏼
TGV drops another banger vid! The patina on those older Tudors is absolutely superb. Makes the steel feel warmer with that softer tone on the lume. You have that grail in the cross hairs ...one target at a time...i can sense its not far off and entirely worthy of the discipline and effort. Killer Belstaff...love it and the brand (also worn by Mr Pitt in the Curious Case of Benjamin Buttons.....which you owe it to yourself to finally watch). Belstaff waxed cotton and moto jackets just do it perfectly and have just as much history as anyone might want - personally own the Crosby and Fieldmaster. Private White VC is also a supremely excellent company - love their Harringtons (Brit racing green and Navy Blue are my go-to choices). Gotta say the new Speedy FOIS has caught my eye but have yet to see it in the steel... As always fratello pure class! O&U
I have Bellstaff Panther, an Explorer and recently acquired a PAM510. I’m from London so with all that I’m thinking of starting my own tribute act! 😂
Command & conquer!
Love your videos and your style. Refined, classy, a bit capricious but always charming.
Excellent vid - gotta love a Belstaff and a Sub - the quintessence of man! My Trialmaster comes from a previous relaunch, the pre- Jim Radcliffe/Ineos days and was made in Italy - they're now made in Romania. Similarly, only a couple of Barbours are made in the UK, the rest are made in Bulgaria. Sad day, sad days. And, just a pedantic detail - in Italia, it would only ever be Mozzarella di bufala - certo! La mucca? No no no! Mi mi mi..!!
You look really sharp in that Jacket ! Great Vids as always. Bill Evans is great. Get the Lp's of his stuff - Village Vanguard and more.
That jacket is pure class indeed!
Cheers,
Loving the jacket TGV. Top video! 🦖
Style guide, lol, your content is much appreciated. I will attain the Seamaster one day 🎉
I like Belstaff but haven't found one that's perfect for me, yet... But, about 15 years ago my grandfather died and my gran said I could look through his golf collection to see if there's anything I could use. There was a Belstaff golf jacket... Closer to the overshirts they do today. I'd guess it was late 80s era.
Have a look at Goldtop Leathers. The best supple but heavy bike jacket I have had. British brand, used to make equestrian leathers for the Household Cavalry. A lot less expensive than Belstaff.
Thank you for the tip, I certainly will!!! Sounds like GHW's cup of tea.
Best regards,
TGV
Goldtop leather jackets are excellent! 😊
Happy for your beautiful jacket matey! Suits you mega.👍
Congrats on the new jacket. It’s a dapper look with the Persol 😎
Ah, Perfect time to drop a new video and also i guess the search for the perfect watch never really ends, nice jacket too!
You are absolutely right, the hunt is on, and thank you for the jacket compliment 🙏🙏🙏
Best regards,
TGV
I too regard the Belstaff brand as “grail’ worthy. Sadly, the provided content of the Hollywood A listers sporting their jackets makes me rethink my opinion. Fantastic video, as usual.
The kipper's knickers, the dog's doo-dahs, the cat's pyjamas, los cojones del perro, the mutt's nuts. All these superlatives are applicable to you, Tristano. Thank you for the information and entertainment. Keep on keeping on.
I got a Barbour steve mcqueen replica wax racing jacket 10 yrs ago and it's developed no damage at all, despite developing a rather musty smell. But that's part of the allure!
Nice Belstaff. I'm a sucker for good British outerwear. Ive got 2 Barbour Northumbrias for my ranchwork out here in oregon, wrangling sheep, dogs, and Christmas trees.
When it doubt stick with what you have. Sounds like you really enjoy Tudor for a whole host of reasons. Vintage Tudors are indeed a unicorn within the brand and really vintage watch collection. For vintage Submariner vibes that won’t break the bank consider a 1990s 14060. Very cool Belstaff too😎
“I have to return some videotapes” - Molto bene reference 🫶 such a class video you have made, again. Ciao until next time 🙏
Love all the physical media in here. I've been stalking that jacket already but thankfully bought a similar one from Boss last year so can't justify it.
Great video as always! Love the new jacket! I love vintage Subs, Rolex and Tudor. I’m a huge Speedy fan and will always have mine as my hero piece. But I hope to add a BB58 to the collection soon! I love vintage-inspired watches, I have the Lorier Astra as well. But I too need to heed the advice of Jeff McMahon’s psycho-analysis and perhaps get off the hamster wheel of crazy! Hahaha
The Rangemaster 2 tease❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤. I can not wait to buy this.
I had a Belstaff Rebel when I was a kid. Loved it so much I slept in it. Ours tastes are uncannily similar, I even have a similar bloody dressing gown!
That Rangemaster ll is dope. A buddy of mine sent me a picture from Windup NY
You have operatives everywhere eh!?!? 😉 Ha, nice, thank you my friend.
Best as always,
T.
I have to say, as a watch guy I agree with a grail watch, but as a motorcyclist the word I would choose for my jacket is functional. Is it triple stitched? Armour level? And so on, however that is a lovely jacket!
Great jacket. Just pulled the trigger on a grey V Racer 👍
Crazy that you made this video. I just got my birthday watch, 1991 Tudor Sub date faded blue bezel like 3 weeks ago. The best everyday watch I've owned. Yes, the most expensive watch but I think I'll keep this until my son is 18....
I don’t wanna sound like I’m correcting you, but I was certain that the wax cotton jacket Steve McQueen wore was a Barbour International jacket. I’m probably very wrong but I thought this due to Barbour jacket keeping the slanted left chest pocket and Belstaff’s have a slant but it’s subtle. Again I maybe wrong I’ve mostly been looking at their moto gear and am considering their stealth Crosby.
Yep spot on! I’ve go the wax model Barbour International jacket. Quite old, bought second hand but in really good nick! Works well with the Hanhart 417 ES 1954 Reissue on the Steve McQueen Triumph Great Escape model btw.🤪😎👍🏼
My first thought was Barbour as well.
I have the Barbour International and it’s been a great jacket, but recently got the Barbour Steve McQueen workers jacket and that’s also awesome. You can both for the price of a Belstaff.
You are correct. From Iconic Alternatives, "Barbour was the team sponsor for the International 6 Day Trials in East Germany in 1964. And so, as a U.S. team member, McQueen wore their A7 jacket." He also had a Belstaff, but most of the famous pics of him are from that East German race, where he can be seen in the Barbour waxed jacket and his Hanhart 417 original.
Purchasing back the love can definitely work! I recently came back to a Leica M after selling a previous body for home renovation funds. The love lives on!
I recently sold a Noctilux to fund a Canon 400/2.8. One day I’ll be back to Leica. Though the Q3 43mm is very interesting.
Great video, and it was terrific to see you at the Wind-Up Watch Fair this past weekend (Belstaff jacket and all). Your bringing up the Panerai here brings me back to my mentioning my "accidental grail" to you; I'll be interested to hear how that watch suits you after having put it aside for a while. (Meanwhile, those vintage Tudor prices...woof!)
Just picked up a Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Bronze to take snorkeling in January (Don't want it shiny to attract unwelcome sea creatures, so I'm hoping it will patina over the next few months). Great watches these Nivada's!
I congratulate you on your new jacket. Although I have to say that the Ventile jacket suits you even better. An excellent piece of clothing. Greetings!
Great taste my friend, private white can’t be beaten for hand made British clothing
I think you are spot on in brining back your Panerai. Your rotation is stunted so you spend too much time with one watch so you feel bored and want to sell, just to probably go back spending more money. Keep a few more around is my recommendation.
REALLY looking forward to the Rangemaster 2. I just hope that I'm around and have enough time to order one if this is a limited run. I got really lucky with the OG Rangemaster, I hope it remains with this next release!
Thanks for showing all those vintage Tudor Submariners. They do look so enticing! Especially the ones with the Tudor Rose logo. Best of luck on making your decision.
50's book is a good one. I enjoyed it as an audible book as he narrates it himself.
Staying until the very end has never been more satisfying :D
Great feature on the Belstaff. I fell for a Peregrine jacket last year and the Britishness factor is a huge part. Thrilled to see the Susumu Yokota record on the channel - "Tobiume" is one of my favorite songs of all time. Check out Yoshi Ojima's "Une Collection Des Chainons" volumes 1 and 2. There are just so many great records from this era of music in Japan, I'll stop there or I'll write you a book!
Talking about music.... I saw an album by Bohren & Der Club Of Gore in your collection! I got to see them live early this year and absolutely loved it! If you ever get the chance to go, do it! That is, if you already haven't...
👏👏👏👏 You are a man of great culture and taste! I love it. They must have been amazing.
I will certainly add that to my bucket list.
Thank you,
Best regards,
TGV
I’ve stolen your mantra, “I’ve got two lungs, so I run”. Loved that inspiration, would be great to hear a bit more about that side of your life as well.. take care!
I acquired my grail trousers, they are a real belt monster.
👏👏👏👏😅😅🤣🤣🤣 Genius, thank you.
Best regards,
TGV
Hey Tristano! It was nice meeting you and shake your hand last Saturday at the watch fair in NYC. The jacket,... I'm not a fan. But being so thin, I guess you can make it work. What's up with the Clark Gable mustache? Being Italian, I think you'd be better off with a Super Mario mustache. It's my humble opinion,... Cheers!
I was over the Speedy from the jump, but that’s just me. Anyway, brilliant vid as usual. Been a while since I’ve worn a leather jacket. Think I might have a look around and see what’s what. Cheers! 😎👍🏼
Came for the watch, stayed for the jacket. Now time for a new belstaff favoured rabbit hole of research to get lost in.
Pure class!!!! As always....
Well, now we know who actually stays for the end of your videos… haha I’m HYPED!!!
OMG! That Jason Statham impersonation was hilarious 😂 😂😂
ciao Tristano, ho trovato un tudor 79090 a 3,8€ e dopo il tuo video credo che lo prenderò😁 molto figo!!!
I love the editing in your videos.
Tudor Sub is the more unique looking; especially the blue dial. Anyway, great video my friend! Cheers!
Go for the 5512. Bill Evans and Oscar Peterson are two of my favorite piano players - there work is just really satisfying.
YESSSSSSSSS OSCAR IS 🔥🔥 You my friend, have excellent taste.
Thank you THX, always great to see you in the comments,
Best regards as always,
T.
New York style beats that soggy pita Italian style any day 😂
🤣🤣🤣 As Davide Cecchini says when he sees a watch he does not like: "contento tu contenti tutti".
Thank you and best regards,
TGV
@@theurbangentry 😅it’s not so bad haha, but the video of the uptight Italians trashing it so hard made my inner New Yorker clap back 🤣
I can hear the Ja Rule hook now!! 🤣🤣😅
Great video as always I’ve got a “real” Belstaff wax cotton bike jacket I say real not in a condescending way but it’s a proper motorcycle jacket with armour haha anyway I’ve had it well over a decade and it’s been on lots of motorcycle adventures and I’ve taken it round the world with me. I will add as a few other people have already mentioned that was a barber jacket Steve McQueen was wearing I’ve got one of them too they are still made in the uk just up the road from me in Gateshead north east of England. A lot cheaper than the belstaff to haha £250 at the factory shop
Jacket's a bit overkill for the scooter imho👍🏻 oh and defo 7298.
Cuando te vi la chaqueta me encantó, me la voy a comprar
I'm selling my 2009 Sub ref 14060m. It's too dainty for my taste unfortunately. So I'm on the lookout for the current gen Sub, either date or no date, depends on what I can get my hands on. I tried it several times at the AD and I need to be done with it.
Do it. So worth it. I love mine.
@@mema4922 Just bought a month old, "preowned" Date from a non-Rolex AD I have a relationship with. They took my 2009 in for a trade. Now the wait is on for that FedEx truck.
Hi, I really loved your video about bulova super seville. Have you alternatives to the Cartier Santos? It could be a nice video. Thanks
bro keep saving for the Breguet, not because it's right for you but because you already made a video on the Rolex and I already watched it
and I'm bored of Tudor
You're doing a great public service here my friend! This is a quandary I have often faced. Big hugs from Blighty x
AHAAAAA!!!! There he is!!! Un grande abbraccio right back at you.
Thank you bother.
T.
Nice jacket! What’s that rectangular patch under the leather on your left shoulder at 14:07???
Who is still doubting with the fact that Urban Gentry is the best Watch Channel ?
@theurbangentry
Hey TGV, long time fan. Have a question for you, in between an omega chronoscope white silver dial or new moonwatch….whats your vote?
The 9411 with the blue dial and grey bezel really reminds me of the Seiko Prospex SBDN069. I know they're apples and oranges but that particular Seiko I have always loved because of the colour and it's versatility with different kinds of straps. Also the pizza at 4:12 looks so good
I think the Tudor sub is the cooler of the two, and I think it’s definitely more you. Also, I love the jacket. Makes me wanna pull my Harley leather out of the closet now that fall is here in the northeast! Unrelated to that, I’m hosting a screening of Goldfinger here in Boston on December 14 and it would be great to have you in attendance! I know how big a fan of Bond, Fleming, and Connery you are and I know you’d certainly enjoy it! Let me know if you’re interested! It’s open to anyone, tickets are only $30 and limited to 60 seats. Cheers! P.S. I can’t wait for the RMII to launch! I’m very excited to see the final product! -Taylor
Bonus points for Bill Evans! Portrait In Jazz is on constant rotation in my house.
I also love and collect jackets. Military flight jackets are my thing. Navy G-1s to be specific. My favorite/grail jacket is a Gordon & Ferguson M422a. I don't own an original but I do own a reproduction which I like very much.
great word Pulchridtude, nice one., what year is the vintage Roley Sub? gorgeous piece> love the posh dino, cracks me up every single time. i work with a Brommy chap and he laughs at it as well.
U most get that sub! You never replaced your suby and this one fits you more then the ceramic one
Happy to report that I have happily eaten American pizza in Naples (yes - the Italian city of Naples) during the two years I lived there.
I'm still gunning for a 75090 in blue with a ghosted bezel for a good deal. And while i'd take a 75190 in a pinch, the longer i wait, it seems like it becomes more of a dream...
Great video as usual!
Ma che catzo- ora sto pensando di ritornare in Italia per mangiare. Couldn’t stop laughing. There’s an excellent channel on YT that always recommends buying well made classic outerwear as it will last forever. Grande video T!
Thanks for the vid. Deliberating which version of a Submariner you want is an awesome luxury I hope to have one day. Until then, I'm forced to consider cheaper alternatives until I can afford one. The question is, do I go for a 4hz movement and a lower power reserve? Or do I take the Seiko route and go for a 3hz movement with a much higher power reserve?