Köszi szépen! Azóta rengeteg újabb (és jobb) modell van erre a célra, de büszkén mondhatom, hogy az enyém volt az első és az összes többi ezen az elven lett kifejlesztve.
Much better with the gear set for side to side inside that box/bracket you have. But it still needs some tensioner on the original sppol for a more consistent wind, and no runaway on the starter spool, just a small pad with tension screw to apply a little tension to the feeder spool will help a fair amount
EXCELENTE!!! FELICITACIONES!!! QUISIERA LOS STL Y LOS PLANOS PARA CONSTRUIR TODO; DESDE LA CAJA DE ENGRANAJES HASTA LA GUÍA PARA ENROLLAR... MARAVILLOSO...
I have no problems with. Is it possible that you feeding the donor spool from the top and not from the bottom? Normally the filament should not lift the guide.
@@mikloskiszely514 i sorted it by gluing the washer beneath it to the sled. Using an M8 carriage screw for the axle with the worm screw on is a nice upgrade. i might have a tinker and see if can create a frame where the bearing slot from the tops so they are encased
@@Nonprofessional_Tinkerer of course you can do that. but I'm already working on version 2.0 with interchangeable tools for various widths, etc... but that will take a while
@@mikloskiszely514 cool, look forward to it. This one works and very well, now the hive mind has hold of it im sure will see lots of modifications not even thought of
It is looking good. The first three layers looked perfect, but when the fourth layer started it looked like there was a gap. I am guessing that is why the winding was not perfect from then on out. It was certainly usable and better than some of the filament I have purchased. I am trying to make a winder that produces spools as good as Hatchbox filament.
yes I have. sensational idea, professional execution, but you have to disassemble the original AMS. if you are not afraid of it, it is (the Hydra) the better solution. Hats off, very-very good model, highly recommended. This is the cheaper, simpler solution. I personally don't see the two models in competition, the two things play in different leagues. The hydra and his creator is way beyond me 👍
Hi everyone! Can you help me please? As mentioned, I'm working on the V2, which should eliminate the teething problems of the first model and add some functions. One feature will be that you can use modules to optimize the winding on various spools - plug&play - with various widths (V1 was only planned on the winder side with a spool width of 60mm - for BBL)... All this with a more torsion-resistant construction. (main frame & filament guide also) The winder should easily handle spooling from very small (05.kg?) up to 3kg spools. Now my question: I only have 1 kg spools. BBL chose the size 200mm diameter and 68mm outside and 60mm inside width. (with 53 or 55mm hole) Other spools of mine also have a diameter of almost 200mm, but 77-78mm outside width and 72mm inside width. Which common spool sizes still exist? Please give me a few sizes: "diameter", "outer width", "inner width", possibly the size of the "central hole" (for centering discs) as an answer to this question here. Thank you and greetings, Miklos
I found this one, but the sizes are in many cases wrong (for spectrum filaments for example): richrap.blogspot.com/2014/03/universal-3d-printing-filament-spool.html
Could you please tell me if there will be many differences in V2? I have a strong will to print your awesome project, but in comments you mentioned working on next version for several spools dimensions. It would be much more suitable for me. So, that's my question: should I start printing some parts from existing version or they won't be interchangeable with the next one?
Yes, I'm still working on the V2. I have already developed at least 3 new drives and filament guides... all work great, but all have disadvantages in certain respects, especially if the device is rotated / operated in the wrong direction. (jams) I would like to eradicate that, make it almost foolproof. The publication takes at least 1 week. It will not be compatible with the V1, or only a few parts.
@@mikloskiszely514 Thank you. You are doing really great work. I'm sure you'll cope with all problems and next version will be perfect Looking forward to testing it :)
Amazing work,and design. Question.. that bowden tubing, may not last long at that winding speeds, if i am not mistaken, wouldn't a metal tube do the job for long term use ?
Automatic filament change during printing can be realized in different ways. Bambulab pursues - in my opinion - a simple, inexpensive and good method. But this method has certain stumbling blocks... the important thing is simple: In order for the filament rolls to behave as desired and designed with this method, the rolls must be 200 mm in diameter, approx. 68 mm wide (so that 4 fit into the AMS) and even more importantly each have 4 mm flat treads / side walls so that the rubber wheels have a good grip. (feed & rewind) If the roles do not meet these requirements, then problems with the AMS are inevitable. And in my opinion, the roles should be changed, not the AMS inner tub, because we can change the AMS so that more spools fit in, but then we also cause more problems: cardboard spools are still rubbed off and clog the mechanics, wrong diameters spools cause wrong feed and rewind speeds, if the side walls of the spools are rounded (not 4mm flat), they will constantly slip through, etc... Therefore you should rewind on bambulab compatible spools.
I should be getting my first Bambu Lab printer in 2 days. Is this just because the spool has to be the precise size for the AMS? Also, I bought like 300 bucks of filament from Bambu Lab's site. Is their filament not worth purchasing, as I am assuming there is no respooling that needs to be done with their filament.
excellent design, the only thing I notice is that the axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation is too free in my opinion. in the video, you can see the white part moving so much on that axis, if you make it more rigid I think it becomes perfect.
Hello. This has been one of the best respooling device design I have seen. I have a bambulab and would like to respool some of my filament. Can you give us some hint on how should we place the piece on a 3d printer so they can print correctly. Bambulab almost say everything need support even when it doesn't need it. I would greatly appreciated if you can give us an image of the layout. Thank you
What happens if you slide the ptfe tube up to the spool on the right? Does it snag or will it help align each layer? Overall this is an awesome project!
In the beginning when the spool is still empty, it might help a little (but PTFE is flexible) but as the "filling level" increases it will get in the way, can even pinch slightly (a bit with being wound up and then jamming(?)). Just test it and find your best setting... or watch the "how it works" video: there (with 300gr PLA filament) the PTFE tube is mounted further forward.
Cool! I've been watching most/all of the videos, this one looked like the resulting spool is tighter and neater, but you also don't appear to be going as fast maybe. Its still an awesome design keep up the good work!
It’s way more difficult to perfectly wind something stiff like PLA. The filament here looks very flexible which makes winding perfectly relatively easy.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
This represents a genuine boon to the 3D printing community, you deserve an award for this. Stellar work.
It's impressive just how close to a perfect winding the rewound spool gets. Great job on the mechanics/design.
The assembly clips are amazing, the design is also amazing, the worm drive being the best bit.
Then you give it away free, thank you.
Cool! And this is the first practical use of the reciprocating half-gear mechanism I've seen!
Gratulálok! Szuper terv és gyakorlati megvalósítás!
Köszi szépen! Azóta rengeteg újabb (és jobb) modell van erre a célra, de büszkén mondhatom, hogy az enyém volt az első és az összes többi ezen az elven lett kifejlesztve.
Much better with the gear set for side to side inside that box/bracket you have. But it still needs some tensioner on the original sppol for a more consistent wind, and no runaway on the starter spool, just a small pad with tension screw to apply a little tension to the feeder spool will help a fair amount
Beautiful work, hypnotic to watch! ❤❤❤
EXCELENTE!!! FELICITACIONES!!! QUISIERA LOS STL Y LOS PLANOS PARA CONSTRUIR TODO; DESDE LA CAJA DE ENGRANAJES HASTA LA GUÍA PARA ENROLLAR... MARAVILLOSO...
That was really cool. Looks well done. I need one. Time to fire up the printer.
So clean. I love it. I started printing this out and hope to finish by this weekend. Well done!
Please print and use the heavy load parts
@@mikloskiszely514 Will do!
Thank you very nice design can't wait to try it out.
Excellent work. I look forward to printing this.
Its a great design ive had to make some personal mods but works, latest mod was to stop the sled part from coming off during spooling
I have no problems with.
Is it possible that you feeding the donor spool from the top and not from the bottom?
Normally the filament should not lift the guide.
@@mikloskiszely514 i sorted it by gluing the washer beneath it to the sled. Using an M8 carriage screw for the axle with the worm screw on is a nice upgrade. i might have a tinker and see if can create a frame where the bearing slot from the tops so they are encased
@@Nonprofessional_Tinkerer of course you can do that.
but I'm already working on version 2.0 with interchangeable tools for various widths, etc... but that will take a while
@@mikloskiszely514 cool, look forward to it. This one works and very well, now the hive mind has hold of it im sure will see lots of modifications not even thought of
Very good job! / Gratulálok.. szuper :))
Woaw just what I needed!
Amazing work! :D
Wow! You are a genius! Thank you.
It is looking good. The first three layers looked perfect, but when the fourth layer started it looked like there was a gap. I am guessing that is why the winding was not perfect from then on out. It was certainly usable and better than some of the filament I have purchased. I am trying to make a winder that produces spools as good as Hatchbox filament.
Prusament comes perfectly wound, its very satisfying.
Very nice. Thank you for sharing.
Have you seen the AMS hydra? I can run atomic/prusa etc without respooling now
yes I have. sensational idea, professional execution, but you have to disassemble the original AMS. if you are not afraid of it, it is (the Hydra) the better solution.
Hats off, very-very good model, highly recommended.
This is the cheaper, simpler solution.
I personally don't see the two models in competition, the two things play in different leagues.
The hydra and his creator is way beyond me 👍
Hi everyone!
Can you help me please?
As mentioned, I'm working on the V2, which should eliminate the teething problems of the first model and add some functions.
One feature will be that you can use modules to optimize the winding on various spools - plug&play - with various widths
(V1 was only planned on the winder side with a spool width of 60mm - for BBL)...
All this with a more torsion-resistant construction. (main frame & filament guide also)
The winder should easily handle spooling from very small (05.kg?) up to 3kg spools.
Now my question:
I only have 1 kg spools.
BBL chose the size 200mm diameter and 68mm outside and 60mm inside width. (with 53 or 55mm hole)
Other spools of mine also have a diameter of almost 200mm, but 77-78mm outside width and 72mm inside width.
Which common spool sizes still exist?
Please give me a few sizes: "diameter", "outer width", "inner width", possibly the size of the "central hole" (for centering discs) as an answer to this question here.
Thank you and greetings, Miklos
I found this one, but the sizes are in many cases wrong (for spectrum filaments for example):
richrap.blogspot.com/2014/03/universal-3d-printing-filament-spool.html
Don't know if they're common, but I have such 1kg spools:
D: diameter
OW: outer width
IW: inner width
C: central hole
1.
D: 188
OW: 83
IW: 70
C: 52
2.
D: 200
OW: 69
IW: 58.5
C: 83
3.
D: 198
OW: 75
IW: 64.5
C: 52
Greetings. Two main spool sizes from Paramount3D:
1)
D: 204mm
C: 56mm
IW: 67mm
OW: 71mm
2)
D: 204mm
C: 56mm
IW: 60mm
OW: 66mm
Wie kann man dich erreichen? eMail oder Telefon?
Currently printing V1 - awesome design! Can any of the V1 parts be used on V2?
Could you please tell me if there will be many differences in V2?
I have a strong will to print your awesome project, but in comments you mentioned working on next version for several spools dimensions. It would be much more suitable for me. So, that's my question: should I start printing some parts from existing version or they won't be interchangeable with the next one?
Yes, I'm still working on the V2.
I have already developed at least 3 new drives and filament guides... all work great, but all have disadvantages in certain respects, especially if the device is rotated / operated in the wrong direction. (jams)
I would like to eradicate that, make it almost foolproof.
The publication takes at least 1 week.
It will not be compatible with the V1, or only a few parts.
@@mikloskiszely514 Thank you. You are doing really great work.
I'm sure you'll cope with all problems and next version will be perfect
Looking forward to testing it :)
Amazing work,and design. Question.. that bowden tubing, may not last long at that winding speeds, if i am not mistaken, wouldn't a metal tube do the job for long term use ?
Nice way to use a Scotch Yoke
Where can this be downloaded from? Amazing work!
www.printables.com/model/407688
obviously im a beginner, but what is the reason to switch spools?
Automatic filament change during printing can be realized in different ways.
Bambulab pursues - in my opinion - a simple, inexpensive and good method.
But this method has certain stumbling blocks... the important thing is simple: In order for the filament rolls to behave as desired and designed with this method, the rolls must be 200 mm in diameter, approx. 68 mm wide (so that 4 fit into the AMS) and even more importantly each have 4 mm flat treads / side walls so that the rubber wheels have a good grip. (feed & rewind)
If the roles do not meet these requirements, then problems with the AMS are inevitable.
And in my opinion, the roles should be changed, not the AMS inner tub, because we can change the AMS so that more spools fit in, but then we also cause more problems: cardboard spools are still rubbed off and clog the mechanics, wrong diameters spools cause wrong feed and rewind speeds, if the side walls of the spools are rounded (not 4mm flat), they will constantly slip through, etc...
Therefore you should rewind on bambulab compatible spools.
I should be getting my first Bambu Lab printer in 2 days. Is this just because the spool has to be the precise size for the AMS? Also, I bought like 300 bucks of filament from Bambu Lab's site. Is their filament not worth purchasing, as I am assuming there is no respooling that needs to be done with their filament.
excellent design, the only thing I notice is that the axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation is too free in my opinion. in the video, you can see the white part moving so much on that axis, if you make it more rigid I think it becomes perfect.
Can this be used for any spools
wow man that is amazing!
Hello. This has been one of the best respooling device design I have seen. I have a bambulab and would like to respool some of my filament. Can you give us some hint on how should we place the piece on a 3d printer so they can print correctly. Bambulab almost say everything need support even when it doesn't need it. I would greatly appreciated if you can give us an image of the layout. Thank you
Disregard I noticed that you created a 3mf file. Thank you
Épp nyomtatás alatt vannak az alkatrészek hozzá. Nem vagyok egészen biztos mit kell nyomtatni, de majd kitalálom
What happens if you slide the ptfe tube up to the spool on the right? Does it snag or will it help align each layer? Overall this is an awesome project!
In the beginning when the spool is still empty, it might help a little (but PTFE is flexible) but as the "filling level" increases it will get in the way, can even pinch slightly (a bit with being wound up and then jamming(?)).
Just test it and find your best setting... or watch the "how it works" video: there (with 300gr PLA filament) the PTFE tube is mounted further forward.
Cool! I've been watching most/all of the videos, this one looked like the resulting spool is tighter and neater, but you also don't appear to be going as fast maybe. Its still an awesome design keep up the good work!
the wire guide should be close to the spool hub and move out
Wouldn't it be way easier to just print the spool covers so it fits in the AMS? There are a ton on printables
Nice design, but i need to change something for adapt other work, please how i can get your design 3D i can contact to you?
Wow. This is great
Okay…where do I find the files to print or where do I purchase one?
www.printables.com/de/model/407688
it‘s free. plz.read the description, have fun!
To je super, kde se dá koupit?
Das Modell kann kostenlos heruntergeladen werden unter printables.com
Awsome work :o
What brand and color is that filament?
"Spectrum Filaments" Premium PLA, colors:
"Lime green" & "light gray" & matt black.
Colors like Festool
@@mikloskiszely514 no the color you had on the roll winding… not the rig
@@JasonHartsoe Ach, :)
Also Spectrum Premium PETG, Color "
Transparent Red".
hol érhetőek el hozzá az STL-ek ?
www.printables.com/model/407688
GENIUS!!!
Why would you need this?
To wind non-Bambu filament onto Bambu-spools, so they work with the Bambu AMS.
where can i download this model?
www.printables.com/de/model/407688-bambu-lab-p1-x1-x1c-x1cc-filament-spool-switcher-w
thanks ALOT!@@mikloskiszely514
that would work great on fishing reels if modded a little
шикарно, спасибо
It’s way more difficult to perfectly wind something stiff like PLA. The filament here looks very flexible which makes winding perfectly relatively easy.
😲🤘🤘
10/10
not suitable for my pet bottle filament