Another excellent video, you are clear and well-spoken and NO you do not talk too much. You digress a bit, but it is all valuable and appreciated. Carry on. Thank you.
Never say you're talking too much. Trust me everything you say has value. I'm subscribed to some long winded youtubers and you are not one of them. All your info is very appreciated and I can tell you were most likely a beloved shop teacher! Thanks for the video! Sorry I dont have the extra money to buy your videos or I would!
I did some looking and the logo on the gear box was used from 1930-1950, the one on the lathe was used from 1950-1964. The twin to this lathe is sitting in my shop, and has date stamps from 1957 & 1958. Thank you for doing this series, I have learned a lot.
Mr. Pete, I just discovered that my new to me Craftsman 12 in. lathe has the same model number as yours. You had asked if anyone knew what year it is. If you look in the center of the Webbing of the bed, between the ways, the date code is cast in the side of the bed. Mine is 948, September of 1948. I enjoy all the helpful things you post. It has been so helpful to have a refresher on the lathe operation since shop class in 1969!
Time marches on. Over fifteen years since I cleaned my lathe. Since I inherited it and no book. I couldn't get the quick change to work. Thank the good Lord for your video on installing the quick change installation. How to move the handles was perfect.
That was very interesting. I never realised that you would have so many more thread cutting options with change wheels than a dedicated gearbox. Again your knowledge and experience as been very enlightening .Very much appreciated,thank you.
+Nodrog Awson There are many other combos with a QCGB, you just have to change the stud gear or gears in the banjo. For example, metric threading on an imperial lathe
Mr. Pete, love your videos!I recently restored a Craftsman 101.07383 with QCGB, and found your videos quite helpful. You remind me of my high school shop teacher. Thanks for your help an instruction!
Excellent series mrpete. Very concise and informative. Although I have a Boxford AUD 9" lathe 1964 vintage (Southbend clone) I still find these tutorials very entertaining. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Mr Pete - I got a quick change gear box from Ebay, and I'm doing this conversion on my Craftsman 12 lathe now. I was having trouble figuring out a couple of things that just didn't make sense. Now I see that the pivot pin for my counter shaft bracket needs to be longer so it can double as a rear support for the gearbox. (The pin on mine looks more like a bolt and may not be original.) If so, I will need to put the standard gears back on and make a new pin. That's something I can do thanks to your many excellent instructional videos. I also see that I may need a new gearbox cover. I guess it's back to Ebay on that. Please know that your older videos are still invaluable to us home shop machinists. Many many thanks to you!
I am replacing missing gears in my Atlas 12" quick change gearbox and noticing a few of the chart tag screws line up with some of the gears so that a person could oil gears from those points. The different shifter lever index holes also lineup so that you can squirt through the holes to the individual gears. I'm getting up there in years and this is way easier on my joints than getting down on the floor to oil my gears. I hope this tip helps. Keep up the awesome videos. I am retraining on the lathe and you sure help to refresh my memory! Thank you!
I just went to the shop and double checked on that tip and you have to put the shifter on each index and squirt a little bit then engage the lever and run for a second and so on for each gear. The top right chart screw hole oils the gear for the lead screw. Thanks again!
Another good, one I really enjoy your you-tube videos, especially ones directed to home lathe owners. I really like that you released the second video no more than a day after the first. Keep them coming Mr Pete!!!
Hi Pete l have 2 12 x 36 atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes was happy to realize during restoration the both gear boxes have all steel gears and not zmak like the lathe gears,,,guess that's why the gear boxes cost as much as the lathe itself. I did spray mine with Lucas red and tacky and built a chip deflector on lead screw side,,,it's such a pain to keep oil on the gears, not to mention the mess from the oil being slung off as fast as you can put it on,,,l couldn't believe how much it quieted the gears dowm.
When tightening the screws holding the bearing on the far right end of the lead screw, I usually run the carriage down to that end before tightening and close the half nut to put the lead screw in the best position first. If there is any play in the mounting bolts, this ensures the lead screw isn't bending as the carriage runs to the far end. Perhaps not always needed, but I can see some difference on my cheap lathe. Love your videos!
Your lathe looks similar to mine, and it is a 1948 model #101.07403 (other plate, #12L 037221). My guess the 037 represents the year of the design, ‘37, and that my lathe is 221st one built. Just ordered a quick change gear box for this one, so your video was most helpful, even though it is five years old.
And I also removed one of the top cover pins and replaced it with a brass bolt and it really stiffened it and quiet down and makes it easy to remove,,, l love my lathe only weak link was the top cover,,,someone had already brazed it twice and I can see how easy it would be to break the mounting brackets,,,but the gussets really took care of it,,,I just drilled and put in brass screws.
Norm Griffin I have enjoyed your videos so much, I have always wanted to work with a mill & lathe and after retiring I bought some used machinery, including a atlas101-074033 that had sat up for near 20 years , later i hope to buy your videos for help . Thank you for your info and instructions,
I just went out and checked my 1017403 (12X36) and it has the same two logos as your lathe. My QCGB does not have the model tag on it and the levers are cast iron, not alloy. Yeah, things do change. I'm told that Atlas/Clausing can supply manufacture date(approx) from serial numbers, I've never tried though. Mine is 30383 or very close, I've just guessed early sixties, but really have no solid info. Great video, your "school teacher experience" shines through!
On my 12 x 36 they had the t handle on bottom and nut on top and t handle sleeve was riding in slot,,,and was no spacer on bottom to tighten against,,,I switched them like yours shows and made a 3/8 inch space between to tighten bottom nut against,,, seemed like it could brake bracket before it became tight enough,,,,hope I did right
I love all the old catalogs. They actually have useful information. I was trying to find some information on the Sears website and its amazing how little they manage to tell you in so much marketing jargon. It would be great if you could scan these and upload them as PDF tiles.
Another great video Tubalcain. My Atlas 12 is the same as yours with a QC gearbox. I also have a Myford clone. I like the atlas because of the powered crossed and the larger hole in the headstock. I just wish the Atlas had fine feeds like the Myford :-)
Thanks so much for this. I really enjoyed it especially because someday I hope to have a quick change gearbox for my Atlas TH42, 10” lathe. I am sure there will be many similarities between my 10” Atlas and your 12” Atlas lathe.
Your Craftsman lathe has quite a few differences from mine. My lathe was sold in the 1973 time frame and the gear cover and the lead screw bearing and the apron are all different. I see that their was no spacer behind the sliding gear. I was sort of thinking my lathe should have a spacer there as the gear can wobble around a little. Thanks for the video.
Ever the teacher; thanks for making "dull" information come to life. I'll probably never use this or part 1 info, but I watched the whole 25+ mins. anyway.
Just purchased a Atlas QC 54 and could not figure out what the tag meant by slip gear in or out! This video cleared that question right up! Thank you for your great vids! Do you know what size the two groove pulleys were on the motor of my model?
Info on logo plates. This is from an unverified source, but word has it the long C logo on the quick change was used from 1930-1950. Although the graphic associated with the timeline is slightly different from what you showed. The bar extending from the C was interrupted rather than solid like yours. I imagine the logo evolved during that time so it is probably from the latter portion of the time period. The lathe logo was reportedly used from 1950-1964, but another contributor indicated the logo was used from 1947, so speculate, if you choose. Hope you find this helpful!
Sadly I'll never get to put these gems to practical use - but still a fascinating watch. A question please - I know this one is a real chestnut - What's your "rule" for grease or oil?
Hi Mr. Pete, Enjoy watching your videos as I have recently acquired Craftsman 101.28940 recently and so much to learn from your videos. I have question in regards to the oil being used, manufactured specified SAE 20Wt oil is hard to come by and so is gear libe Keystone 120No. I believe, do you have any recommendation on the alternatives? Thanks you.
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the suggestion. I bought 30WT non-detergent oil from NAPA. they do not carry 20WT anymore. but was able to find light spindle oil and way oil from local tool shop.
I have an atlas 10F lathe that has standard gear change setup, with the leadscrew reversing clutch down in front. I have all the parts (I think) to change to the quick change setup. But I worry that if I make the change, I will have to use the reverser mechanism that I see on your lathe and will have to stop the spindle every time I want to reverse the leadscrew. With the "down in front" clutch, I never have stopped the spindle to change leadscrew direction. So: DO you have to stop the spindle to reverse direction? Pete Stanaitis
MrPete did they make a quick change gear box for the 8 inch Junior South Bend or can you use a 9 inch quick change on a 8 inch Junior SB lathe and do you need to change the lead screw also Thanks Greg
You were wondering about the date of your Atlas lathe, I don’t know if this information is helpful or not but I have the exact model number as yours, a 12x36 101.07403 and the date inscribed on the front bearing race is 12-30-43. The craftsman logo on mine is blue.
Mr Pete, I replaced the head stock in my Atlas 10" lathe. (I wanted the Timken bearings, the babbit bearings in my old headstock were shot). Anywho, now for some reason when I put it in back gears it pops out. I have to hold the lever for it to stay. Do you have any idea as to why this is happening and what I can do to fix it? Thanks!
Mr. Pete, I just got a quick change gear box for my 101.07403 lathe. The one thing that I didn't get was the compound gear with the special shield guard to keep the sliding gear from moving when it was running which brings me to this question is, do both compound gears the one with the guard and the one on the lathe without have the same tooth count and if they do, do you see a problem making a spacer to keep it in the outer position being as how it is used in that position most of the time, I could then move the spacer to the other side if I needed to cut the course threads listed in the top row of the chart?? Of course even if this is an option I am still going to look for the right gear. Thanks, Ed C.
The top cover is really flimpcy so I added aluminum gussets to 90 degree bends and really stiffened it up and will prevent them from breaking,, and really cuts down on noise from vibration also.
Question sir,,,how much free play should i have side to side on treaded rod?,,, and should the attached bushing go right against tightening mount are should there be a washer be inbetween?,,,I had 3/8 inch side to side movement so I added 2 washers to eliminate the play. Is that ok are should i have some free play?,,
Mr Pete, could I bother you for the part number(s) of the two piece gear guard? wait NM went to your first vid in this series, got it :) L61004u and L61004L
Another excellent video, you are clear and well-spoken and NO you do not talk too much. You digress a bit, but it is all valuable and appreciated. Carry on. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Took me 70 years to find you and you nailed it perfectly, john
Thanks
Never say you're talking too much. Trust me everything you say has value. I'm subscribed to some long winded youtubers and you are not one of them. All your info is very appreciated and I can tell you were most likely a beloved shop teacher! Thanks for the video! Sorry I dont have the extra money to buy your videos or I would!
+Jay Walt Thanks for watching-I appreciate it
I’m with jay. I enjoy being a sponge of your valuable lessons!
Soy de Venezuela so esos videos fueran en español fuera perfecto porqué no se que dice pero medio entiendo
Tengo uno igual a ese pero hay que acomodarlo
Thanks, Mr.Pete … I learn something every time I watch your videos. Thanks too you I’m a little smarter than when I got up this morning…
👍
I did some looking and the logo on the gear box was used from 1930-1950, the one on the lathe was used from 1950-1964. The twin to this lathe is sitting in my shop, and has date stamps from 1957 & 1958. Thank you for doing this series, I have learned a lot.
Thanks--we have nice machines
Mr. Pete, I just discovered that my new to me Craftsman 12 in. lathe has the same model number as yours. You had asked if anyone knew what year it is. If you look in the center of the Webbing of the bed, between the ways, the date code is cast in the side of the bed. Mine is 948, September of 1948. I enjoy all the helpful things you post. It has been so helpful to have a refresher on the lathe operation since shop class in 1969!
Thanks
Time marches on. Over fifteen years since I cleaned my lathe. Since I inherited it and no book. I couldn't get the quick change to work. Thank the good Lord for your video on installing the quick change installation. How to move the handles was perfect.
That was very interesting. I never realised that you would have so many more thread cutting options with change wheels than a dedicated gearbox.
Again your knowledge and experience as been very enlightening .Very much appreciated,thank you.
+Nodrog Awson Thanks for watching--it is amazing
+Nodrog Awson There are many other combos with a QCGB, you just have to change the stud gear or gears in the banjo. For example, metric threading on an imperial lathe
thank you mr.pete am in process of cleaning old craftsman 12" and adding qc gearbox your videos are very informative 👍
Mr. Pete, love your videos!I recently restored a Craftsman 101.07383 with QCGB, and found your videos quite helpful. You remind me of my high school shop teacher. Thanks for your help an instruction!
+Dave Carberry Thanks for watching
Excellent series mrpete. Very concise and informative. Although I have a Boxford AUD 9" lathe 1964 vintage (Southbend clone) I still find these tutorials very entertaining. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
+Gary C Thanks for watching
Mr Pete - I got a quick change gear box from Ebay, and I'm doing this conversion on my Craftsman 12 lathe now. I was having trouble figuring out a couple of things that just didn't make sense. Now I see that the pivot pin for my counter shaft bracket needs to be longer so it can double as a rear support for the gearbox. (The pin on mine looks more like a bolt and may not be original.) If so, I will need to put the standard gears back on and make a new pin. That's something I can do thanks to your many excellent instructional videos. I also see that I may need a new gearbox cover. I guess it's back to Ebay on that. Please know that your older videos are still invaluable to us home shop machinists. Many many thanks to you!
Thank you for watching, and I'm glad I helped you
I am replacing missing gears in my Atlas 12" quick change gearbox and noticing a few of the chart tag screws line up with some of the gears so that a person could oil gears from those points. The different shifter lever index holes also lineup so that you can squirt through the holes to the individual gears. I'm getting up there in years and this is way easier on my joints than getting down on the floor to oil my gears. I hope this tip helps. Keep up the awesome videos. I am retraining on the lathe and you sure help to refresh my memory! Thank you!
Thank you for the tips. I do not like getting down on my knees either.
I just went to the shop and double checked on that tip and you have to put the shifter on each index and squirt a little bit then engage the lever and run for a second and so on for each gear. The top right chart screw hole oils the gear for the lead screw. Thanks again!
I think the craftsman logo changes are interesting. it would be fun to see all the craftsman logos over the years
Yes
Another good, one I really enjoy your you-tube videos, especially ones directed to home lathe owners. I really like that you released the second video no more than a day after the first. Keep them coming Mr Pete!!!
+Jim Doan Thanks for watching--more to come
Thanks again Tubalcain!! Sure makes maintenence more enjoyable with these detailed videos!!
Good lord, you must have the patience of a saint. Those kids, jamming and forcing gears among other things.
It was pretty hard to take sometimes-they could really tear things up.
Hi Pete l have 2 12 x 36 atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes was happy to realize during restoration the both gear boxes have all steel gears and not zmak like the lathe gears,,,guess that's why the gear boxes cost as much as the lathe itself. I did spray mine with Lucas red and tacky and built a chip deflector on lead screw side,,,it's such a pain to keep oil on the gears, not to mention the mess from the oil being slung off as fast as you can put it on,,,l couldn't believe how much it quieted the gears dowm.
When tightening the screws holding the bearing on the far right end of the lead screw, I usually run the carriage down to that end before tightening and close the half nut to put the lead screw in the best position first. If there is any play in the mounting bolts, this ensures the lead screw isn't bending as the carriage runs to the far end. Perhaps not always needed, but I can see some difference on my cheap lathe.
Love your videos!
+Bill Strahan Thanks for watching--thats a very good idea
Your lathe looks similar to mine, and it is a 1948 model #101.07403 (other plate, #12L 037221). My guess the 037 represents the year of the design, ‘37, and that my lathe is 221st one built.
Just ordered a quick change gear box for this one, so your video was most helpful, even though it is five years old.
👍
That was exceptionaly useful. Thank you for posting.
Avery good series. I have a South Bend 16" that I got just about a year ago that I am slowly cleaning up and trying to get into running order.
+Robert Hayden Great-you will love it
And I also removed one of the top cover pins and replaced it with a brass bolt and it really stiffened it and quiet down and makes it easy to remove,,, l love my lathe only weak link was the top cover,,,someone had already brazed it twice and I can see how easy it would be to break the mounting brackets,,,but the gussets really took care of it,,,I just drilled and put in brass screws.
👍👍
Enjoying, enjoying, enjoying! I have a 9 inch (I think) and this is such good info for when I clean and spruce it up for use again.
Thanks
thank you very much,never put anything harder then wood asross the ways of a lathe
+Natty Bumppo true
Norm Griffin
I have enjoyed your videos so much, I have always wanted to work with a mill & lathe and after retiring I bought some used machinery, including a atlas101-074033 that had sat up for near 20 years , later i hope to buy your videos for help . Thank you for your info and instructions,
Nice quick & to the point keep them coming!
+Mike Nixon thank for watching
I just went out and checked my 1017403 (12X36) and it has the same two logos as your lathe. My QCGB does not have the model tag on it and the levers are cast iron, not alloy. Yeah, things do change.
I'm told that Atlas/Clausing can supply manufacture date(approx) from serial numbers, I've never tried though. Mine is 30383 or very close, I've just guessed early sixties, but really have no solid info.
Great video, your "school teacher experience" shines through!
+Don Murray Thanks for watching--yes, not worth ythe bother
On my 12 x 36 they had the t handle on bottom and nut on top and t handle sleeve was riding in slot,,,and was no spacer on bottom to tighten against,,,I switched them like yours shows and made a 3/8 inch space between to tighten bottom nut against,,, seemed like it could brake bracket before it became tight enough,,,,hope I did right
Looks like those gears could be oiled from the rear before the end cover is closed. Great video Mr. Pete. Thanks
+dale pratt They could
I used this video to help me disassemble and clean my QC54 that was just given to me. Thanks
I love all the old catalogs. They actually have useful information. I was trying to find some information on the Sears website and its amazing how little they manage to tell you in so much marketing jargon.
It would be great if you could scan these and upload them as PDF tiles.
Yes
Another great video Tubalcain. My Atlas 12 is the same as yours with a QC gearbox. I also have a Myford clone. I like the atlas because of the powered crossed and the larger hole in the headstock. I just wish the Atlas had fine feeds like the Myford :-)
+Gord Taylor I've never seen a myford clone
mrpete222 I'll send you a picture of it.
Thanks so much for this. I really enjoyed it especially because someday I hope to have a quick change gearbox for my Atlas TH42, 10” lathe. I am sure there will be many similarities between my 10” Atlas and your 12” Atlas lathe.
+Keith G. Ball Thanks for watching
Your Craftsman lathe has quite a few differences from mine. My lathe was sold in the 1973 time frame and the gear cover and the lead screw bearing and the apron are all different. I see that their was no spacer behind the sliding gear. I was sort of thinking my lathe should have a spacer there as the gear can wobble around a little. Thanks for the video.
+cerberus Thanks for watching-yes, differences & my newer craftsman is from 1976
Thanks for the videos Mr. Pete.
+acklan3 Thanks for watching-
These videos are a great help! Thanks mrpete222.
+William Holland Thanks for watching
Ever the teacher; thanks for making "dull" information come to life. I'll probably never use this or part 1 info, but I watched the whole 25+ mins. anyway.
+Ronald Gilleland Thanks for watching
Just purchased a Atlas QC 54 and could not figure out what the tag meant by slip gear in or out! This video cleared that question right up! Thank you for your great vids! Do you know what size the two groove pulleys were on the motor of my model?
Thanks for watching. No I do not know the size.
Info on logo plates. This is from an unverified source, but word has it the long C logo on the quick change was used from 1930-1950. Although the graphic associated with the timeline is slightly different from what you showed. The bar extending from the C was interrupted rather than solid like yours. I imagine the logo evolved during that time so it is probably from the latter portion of the time period.
The lathe logo was reportedly used from 1950-1964, but another contributor indicated the logo was used from 1947, so speculate, if you choose. Hope you find this helpful!
+drcobol2000 Thanks for watching- that is great info. I'm thinking the lathe is from early 50s
Sadly I'll never get to put these gems to practical use - but still a fascinating watch.
A question please - I know this one is a real chestnut - What's your "rule" for grease or oil?
Great job !! 🤗
Thanks for this video. Wish I had a Atlas!
+Dennis Schoessow Thanks for watching
The two piece end cover might be to allow the gears to be accessible when a collet attachment was in place.
+disgruntledscientist Thanks for watching--I bet you are right--never ocurred to me
My Dad taught me how to use a lathe on a machine exactly like yours.
👍👍
Hi Mr. Pete, Enjoy watching your videos as I have recently acquired Craftsman 101.28940 recently and so much to learn from your videos. I have question in regards to the oil being used, manufactured specified SAE 20Wt oil is hard to come by and so is gear libe Keystone 120No. I believe, do you have any recommendation on the alternatives? Thanks you.
Buy the 20 weight oil at Napa. Non-detergent
Just use 30 weight on the gears
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the suggestion. I bought 30WT non-detergent oil from NAPA. they do not carry 20WT anymore. but was able to find light spindle oil and way oil from local tool shop.
I have an atlas 10F lathe that has standard gear change setup, with the leadscrew reversing clutch down in front. I have all the parts (I think) to change to the quick change setup. But I worry that if I make the change, I will have to use the reverser mechanism that I see on your lathe and will have to stop the spindle every time I want to reverse the leadscrew. With the "down in front" clutch, I never have stopped the spindle to change leadscrew direction.
So: DO you have to stop the spindle to reverse direction?
Pete Stanaitis
I would love to see a video installing a quick change gearbox to the model c southbend lathe.
Do you not have one
mrpete222 I have a hercus lathe it’s made in Australia It is a clone of the southbend. All the parts are the same
mrpete222 model c didn’t have one so I have to change gears manually takes about 30 min then another 30 min to change back again. Such a pain.
Enjoyed the video. Just out of curiosity I checked what $75 dollars in 1950 would be in 2015 dollars. It is $740.16 !
+MrGoosePit WOW
MrPete did they make a quick change gear box for the 8 inch Junior South Bend or can you use a 9 inch quick change on a 8 inch Junior SB lathe and do you need to change the lead screw also Thanks Greg
I really cannot answer that. I am on familiar with the 8 inch model
You were wondering about the date of your Atlas lathe, I don’t know if this information is helpful or not but I have the exact model number as yours, a 12x36 101.07403 and the date inscribed on the front bearing race is 12-30-43. The craftsman logo on mine is blue.
+William Holland Thanks--good to know
Mr Pete,
I replaced the head stock in my Atlas 10" lathe. (I wanted the Timken bearings, the babbit bearings in my old headstock were shot). Anywho, now for some reason when I put it in back gears it pops out. I have to hold the lever for it to stay. Do you have any idea as to why this is happening and what I can do to fix it? Thanks!
+MattsMotorz That happens to mine sometimes. See if theres an adjustment On that eccentric to get it over center
Thanks for the reply!
Mr. Pete, I just got a quick change gear box for my 101.07403 lathe. The one thing that I didn't get was the compound gear with the special shield guard to keep the sliding gear from moving when it was running which brings me to this question is, do both compound gears the one with the guard and the one on the lathe without have the same tooth count and if they do, do you see a problem making a spacer to keep it in the outer position being as how it is used in that position most of the time, I could then move the spacer to the other side if I needed to cut the course threads listed in the top row of the chart?? Of course even if this is an option I am still going to look for the right gear.
Thanks, Ed C.
+Mrflashlite I forgot-you will need to check the chart & use the exact correct gear
The top cover is really flimpcy so I added aluminum gussets to 90 degree bends and really stiffened it up and will prevent them from breaking,, and really cuts down on noise from vibration also.
Good idea
Pete, I have a gearbox for a 10 inch atlas and it is made out of cast iron with the heavy duty shift levers. Do you know what years they made them?
Do not
Question sir,,,how much free play should i have side to side on treaded rod?,,, and should the attached bushing go right against tightening mount are should there be a washer be inbetween?,,,I had 3/8 inch side to side movement so I added 2 washers to eliminate the play. Is that ok are should i have some free play?,,
No free play on the lead screw
What hp are these lathes running normally Also what do you oil the gears (change gears with)?
I've seen a few 12" Craftsman lathes that appear to be from the 20-30's; do you know who made them?
+componenx Thanks for watching-I do not
GOOD JOB!!
awesome job
Do you use moly grease on those gears ?
+Steve Smith No-but that would work fine
thumbs up from me.. thanks for sharing sir..
+Kevin Willis Thanks for watching-
Do You Have A Video On The UnderCutter
Mr Pete, could I bother you for the part number(s) of the two piece gear guard? wait NM went to your first vid in this series, got it :) L61004u and L61004L
Good
enjoyed. thank ~M~ and i hit liked.
mas um escrito!👍👍👍👍👍
+artes em ferro Thanks for watching
Si alguien me puede orientar como escucho estos videos en español este señor se ve que sabe quejode y yo tengo un torno igual a ese
Mr pete 2020
My name is Gerry, not Diana.