Steps to Honda Civic Alternator Removal. (Actual removal got cut out)
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- WARNING......THIS VIDEO DOES NOT CONTAIN THE FULL EXTRACTION OF THE ALTERNATOR
Alternator can be found here using this link. Double check your exact model
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This was intended to be a full start to finish video of my 2000 Honda civic alternator removal.
Half way through I found out the square head bolt that held it to the engine block was seized.
I needed the car quick so I couldn't record the rest of the process
What i had to do was use a drill and physically remove material around the bolt so it slide out.
After extracting the old alternator, installation is just the reverse process
Thanks for watching
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It's always fun to see a mechanic that's not used to Honda's lift the bonnet and see that the timing belt and accessory drive are opposite to almost any other car.
JACK UP THE LEFT FRONT SIDE AND THE ALTERNATOR WILL COME OUT UNDERNEATH. I have been searching all day on how to get it out with not one video actually saying it. Hope my comment helps someone save some time.
Thanks for the info. I am having the same issue with seized alternator too. I guess tomorrow I will have to drill it and break it as you did too, to save me money having to bring it to the shop. Thanks!
This is a hellish job. We couldn't pull it through the top without removing the master cylinder and I wasn't going to do that. It goes easier with a helper. Jack the car up and rest it on Jack stands. Tap the pivot bolt out with a hammer, protect the threads with a thin nut. Then wiggle the alternator out of the mounting bracket. (Easier said then done.) Once the alternator is free have your helper hold it up out of the way while you remove the bolts that hold the mounting bracket from underneath the car. With the mounting bracket out of the way there is room to get the alternator out by the driver's side wheel. Then put the new alternator in through the same route and have your helper hold it while you reinstall the mounting bracket from below. Then helper aligns new alternator from above while you tap it into bracket from below. Put the pivot bolt through and take a well deserved break. The positioning of this alternator is beyond idiotic considering that they tend to fail every 100,000 miles and Hondas last for 300,000.
On other cars, alternators are a breeze to replace. I couldn't believe how much of a hassle this is on a Civic LOL.
You are spot on about the long square headed bolt on the lower bracket. I have spent hours trying to unsieze it. I also use a torch and WD40. Rather that drill thru the aluminum altenator I think I will continue to torch it.
Ron Aye i had to drill it. the alternator was no good anyways. i tried for 2 days and the torch just started melting the alternator and still no results. Sucks but it had to be done
I have a 98 honda as well and couple days ago my battery light came on on my dashboard and the car lost all its power couldn't accelerate at all and lights every thing worked they turned on just fine but when i would try to turn on the car it was completely dead even tho the battery had full power
For the bolt removal part get a long enough extension or two to come out of the wheel well passed your brakes. Then put an impact socket (i think it was a 10 or 11mm socket that I used) that is just big enough to catch the bolt so it doesn't slip off, but not big enough to get stuck on the bolt. Even after getting many full swings in with a 28oz hammer, i still had to use my mapp torch to heat it up. That did the trick for me though. was completely seized
Did you remove the alternator from the top, side (by the wheel), or from the bottom? I have a 1998 4-door Civic LX. Thanks.
Watch the video
he actually starts removal at 3:30
Hey bro i got a honda civic 96 and is uncharge the battery to dead u think the problem is de alternator??? Tks for ur help
There are few things to check before you condemn the alternator. If you have a multimeter you need to put the black lead to the (-) negative black post on the battery and the red lead on the (+) positive red post, and switch the meter to check volts. While the car is running and its does not say at least 14 volts the alternator is not charging the battery. If you dont have a meter generally a battery will last 3 to 6 years. If everything check out that you have a good battery and alternator then you may have some drawing current or eating your battery while off. After market radio/lights/ etc. Also check all your ground cables. Make sure they car connected and not corroded. I hope this helps
@@DirtydogMech tks buddy the battery is new but the Next day is dead i try to do that ok tks buddy greating to my country Guatemala dude 🇬🇹🇬🇹🇬🇹🇬🇹🇬🇹👈👈👈
@@elmisionerodelsexo6731 No problem man glad I could help!
@@DirtydogMech ill find the fucking problem bro is the ground cable need to replace tks buddy i save a lot of money!!!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏✌✌✌✌✌👍👍👍👍👍
I would recommend anyone doing this to invest in a bottle of Kano Aerokroil. It is the best creeping/penetrating oil you can buy. WD 40 is a waste of time believe me I know. I have a repair business in the Northeast where we have snow and salt. I have removed broken spark plugs and completely rusted fuel line fittings after soaking them with this stuff. I would soak that bolt, wait about 30 minutes and then tap it out with a hammer and punch. I rarely endorse a product, but this stuff is like nothing else.
Good Video Job! Mate 🫡🫡🫡
Fix my Honda
What a pain in the butt. Your very informative video will definitely help. Thanks man.
Did just put the screw power steering hose back and no need to bleed or rejust anything with that
Always use penetrating oil a day before removing bolts, if possible. Apply anti-seize to bolts before replacing them.
I just got done removing a alternator on a 2000 Honda civic lx 1.3L and I had the same problem but I was lucky to have a air hammer I put a nut with a couple threads and hammer it out
Miguel Rivera i wish i had a air hammer would of made my life easier.
Oh yeah
This may be a dumb question but can you still get the core money back if you bring it back to them that damaged?
I cant remember but i believe they did take it back. Maybe some else can let us know
Once you 'break' the pivot bolt -- likely with a 5%/95% combination of spray penetrant and flame -- it should just be a matter of 'alternating' yanking and cranking on both the alternator and the bolt -- with vise grips on the head -- to get it to travel through. The channel it's in is hollowed in the middle, between the mounting ears on the alternator.
My Civic is older, so we could be talking about two different animals, but I believe it's common practice for those square nuts to be either cast or welded in place to help reduce the fucking around in this tight spot by limiting the concentration of your laborious efforts to the head of the bolt. If it's loose, it will come out with persuasion. Yours didn't even look that bad, so I'd have expected it to release with far less of an ordeal. Still, hard tellin', not knowin'. I wasn't there. ; ]
Anyone who's spent sufficient time on or under a car like this has or will come to have an appreciation for what pro mechanics go through. Do a couple of projects like this and suddenly $80/hr. shop rates don't seem so extortionate. Ha!
+theoriginalbillholt To quell anyone who might chime in to bash me for my input, I'll say that perhaps I just have a differently configured Civic. Mine also happens to be absent a bleeder screw for 'burping' the cooling system. There are clearly intended locations for them in the castings for the upper hose mount and the thermostat housing, but no ports were ever tapped. Just sayin'. ; ] I haven't looked in a while, but I'm quite sure that the pivot bolt for my alternator is a flange bolt that inserts from the right and has about an inch of threads which run into the square fixed nut on the passenger side of the bracket.
+theoriginalbillholt Yeah I get what your saying after hours of messing with it I was pretty fed up with it. What I thought would a few hours turned into a full day of wresting with it and coming with different ways to tackle the job
Super helpful thank you!
Did replacing the alternator fix the problem?
sure did
What kind of what did drilled it with??
My head lights and the lights on my dashboard dimm at night you think is the alternator?? 99 honda civic
Joaquin Murrieta quite possibly. Also check your battery status, all connections and ground cables for corrosion and if they might be loose
Is there any way u could have just taken the mount off while still on the alt ? Then deal with the bolt holding the mount to the alt once its out ??
I can't remember to well but I think there wasn't enough space to remove it with all in 1 piece
Thanks my dude u have no idea how helpful ur vid is compared to others im subbed
@@acecaldwell4701 I'm glad it helped. I know the video wasn't completed but that bolt gave me such a hard time that I had to stop recording
@@DirtydogMech yea but still gave me all the info I needed to do mine an im pretty sure mine isnt so difficult.i checked out about five other vids on the same thing an they tell me to remove the power steering pump an loosen one of the motor mounts an jack the motor up but the oil pan an I had a feeling none of that was needed an ur vid just assured my suspicion much more simple an direct ur the effin man
Oh OK yeah I can't remember where I wiggled out from. Either underneath the car or on top. Then again I don't have sway bar links or bushing so I wonder if that gave me more room
Very informative
For anybode else trying this, take a dremel tool with a cut wheel long enough to cut the bolt between the alternator and the vehicle bracket on both ends and the alternator should drop out. then you only have two small pieces of bolt to remove and the alternator will not be damaged and the recycler can deal with the seized steel bolt in a aluminum housing.
Patrick newman Yeah your right. wish i had that tool but i only had hands tools at the moment. Breaking it up was my last resort
This is the exact same issue I have with my Honda civic right now. I could not take out the stupid Square Head out I was so frustrated. A quick easy alternator replacement turns out to be a pain in the ass. I don't know what to do next, can some please help?
ChueShee Vang yeah i can help. There a few things you can do. 1) get a small torch and CAREFULLY heat up the bolt get a long chisel/pry bar with the nut on the bolt, smack the side where the nut threads on out. if that doesn't work 2) get a whizz wheel/dremel cutting wheel and try and get in between the alternator and the bracket to cut the bolt 3) assuming since the alternator is no good, get a drill with a medium sized drill bit and drill through the soft aluminum body of the alternator until you fully expose the bolt and then you could slide that stupid bolt out. and make sure you put some anti-seize on the new bolt . hope this helps sorry for the late response
DirtyDogMech oh thanks alot brother, thanks for everything I did exactly what you said and it work perfectly. That square head came off nicely this time. Thanks again man
no problem! Im glad I was able to help
DirtyDogMech thanks again bro
Lmao,,,,Ijust got to the last part,,,and I sure as hell hope I don't have that issue. Still driving my 98 daily
Yeah just start spraying up your bolts every oil change just to make sure 👌
Man the bolt on the bracket holding the alternator that attached the bracket to the motor is the one thats locked up and vice grips made it worse, idk what to do from here
On index 14:19 you never touched the other end of the bolt. It is welded permanently on that square end.
I'm fighting with that long altinator bracket right this minute. I live in New England which = snow and salt. I might just take a disc grinder to the whole thing and replace it - with stainless boots this time.
Glenn Colassi I had break the bracket and I bought a new one. Good luck hope it works out
I hacked away at it and even used an air hammer to eat away at the altinator shroud to make room for a box wrench. I finally got both mounting bolts off. Getting the whole assembly out from behind there was like giving birth to twins. I'll be replacing all the bolts with stainless steel as well as replacing the altinator belt. In doing the timing belt and water pump as well. Thanks for the info.
I think you could have got that bolt through the wheel well by just removing the splash guard and then pull it from above. No creeper needed. I avoid getting under my car at all cost... too icky lol.
what brand you use to replace
Dooney Bedgus honestly I can't remember. I bought it off of advanced Auto parts. It wasn't the cheapest or the most expensive. So far I can't complain. It has been a good part so far, no issues
Video was good right up until you did not show removing or installing the alternator between the intake and strut tower. Not helpfull
i apologize it got difficult to film and pull it out, i had to snake it through the top, moving and turning every which way until it came out
that's what I assumed but that did not work for me. I unbolted the alternator and removed the bracket it bolts too and removed it through the bottom. Did not have to removed axle. Try it next time u do a civic with the alternator in the back like that.
james bixby thanks for this comment. I’m at that crossroads right now.
@@notans1krr46 so it's way easier to go through the bottom of the car instead? That's actually good to know.
That was useless how does it come out the hole
how about you add captions to show what you're doing instead of just hand was over Mic ?
Hammering the but on the lower alternator bolt will round off the nut. Not recommended.
I know but at that point i just wanted to get the bolt out
Use a punch tool next time. You mushroomed the bolt base and that’s what caused it to not come out. Tolerances are very tight on that bolt. Harbor freight sells a punch tool set for $8.99. Would have saved you a massive headache lol
You didnt say if you pull it out through the top or from underneath....... I wasted my time watching this
pulled it through the top sorry
This is a hellish job. We couldn't pull it through the top without removing the master cylinder and I wasn't going to do that. It goes easier with a helper. Jack the car up and rest it on Jack stands. Tap the pivot bolt out with a hammer, protect the threads with a thin nut. Then wiggle the alternator out of the mounting bracket. (Easier said then done.) Once the alternator is free have your helper hold it up out of the way while you remove the bolts that hold the mounting bracket from underneath the car. With the mounting bracket out of the way there is room to get the alternator out by the driver's side wheel. Then put the new alternator in through the same route and have your helper hold it while you reinstall the mounting bracket from below. Then helper aligns new alternator from above while you tap it into bracket from below. Put the pivot bolt through and take a well deserved break. The positioning of this alternator is beyond idiotic considering that they tend to fail every 100,000 miles and Hondas last for 300,000.
Please God don't let me have to go through that in the morning SMH. I already had my sunroof glass fly up on me in the pouring torrential rain yesterday I had to completely reseal the glass to the mount and then reseal the sunroof to the car just last night! Now my alternator goes out tonight
The best thing I can say now is start spraying some lube on the bolt. If it fights you just get a chisel and hammer and break the alternator mount or drill it out. Please wear eye protection But I hope it does not get to that point
@@DirtydogMech no doubt brother. Preperation is always key. Already sprayed it lol
Same problem im having with my alternator bolt
yeah big pain in the a$$
If you're getting 16 volts to battery you are over charging bad regulator.
You never showed us how you took it out from the top
Wow no HOW TO ON GETTING THE ALTERNATOR OUT AFTER YOU GET THAT BOLT UNDONE huh
you didn't show , how Alternator subtract , that's the hardest thing
I apologize. I had to stop recording because it did get very difficult to remove
Wow. I didn't need to watch this. Smh. Hope mine isn't seized
Stupid Honda engineer make that alternator down below plain stupidity.
Definitely tough spot. That's why I had to stop filming to focus on getting it out
@@DirtydogMech I totally agree with you. I have to replaced that alternator on 2000 Honda Civic LX today. It was a killer but lucky that bolt at the bottom wasnt seized at all but still Honda engineer got their head screw loose or something. I got the alternator out from the bottom but you can get the alternator from top too. You dont need to removed from front axle at all. Only nob do that, IMAO.
@@imports4lifetoyotalexus98 What was easier for you? Pulling it out from the top or bottom? Did you have to remove the axle?
Next time take your ring off hate to see that thing melt on your skin
Kenapa pecah y kaki dri alternator ny? Lucu banget
Video was a waste of time. How do you remove the bloody thing
@Chazz Mancini did you have to remove anything ? i.e. motor mounts
You removed to many things.
dont make videos if you live in an airport
Another genius trying to remove the alternator hopefully he doesn't burn he's finger always have the right tools before wearing a mechanics uniform is a disgrace man
Thanks for the pointless and unproductive criticism. Were to help each other in our issues with our vehicles. Instead you could of commented on how I or someone else could done things better to help get the job done but anyways thanks for watching
LMAO rip lhd all that shit in the way. rhd for the win
r u sure ure a mechanic? u move like a gay boy!
+Agnus Dei and you spell like an illiterate dumb ass!
😘