Monster Power HTS 1000 MKII buzzing noise
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Monster Power HTS 1000 MKII surge protector is making buzzing noise. Find out what's causing it as I troubleshoot and fix the problem.
SUBSCRIBE / @watdahel
Buy @ Amazon
Soldering Station amzn.to/3PzdSzu
Heat Gun amzn.to/3xTc24i
Solder amzn.to/3OAGcji
Solder Sucker amzn.to/3OEgD0N
Solder Wick amzn.to/3yjZ4hl
Loupe amzn.to/493RMOu
Multimeter amzn.to/3niAAPm
Tweezer amzn.to/3yhMpLY
Checkout my website @ www.watdahel.com
#surgeprotector #surgeprotection 
Хобби
Thanks watdahel. This actually fixed my problem. I bought this power strip from a local thrift store and was dealing with the annoying buzz noise. I did notice that one of the old caps on my unit, the solder contact was loose. But I decided to order two new cap. I less than 30 minutes, I took the unit apart. Got stuck in the middle of disassembly and had to see this video again just to understand where all the hidden screws were. All is good now.
SAME issue and model I have! Its great to see someone explain in GREAT detail of what is wrong. Thank you very much!
same here
That was excellent. Appreciate detail. Mines about 15 years old and humming has just started. Excellent repair as well.
EXACT issue im having with mine (about 12yrs old) , this video is EXACTLY what i was looking for!!!
great attention to detail and quite methodical in your approach. I learned a lot.
Very well done video. I recently got a HTS 1000 MKIII and am having an issue with it periodically shutting down, although it still shows output voltage and ground/protection OK. If I come up with a solution, I will attempt to make a video as good as this one. You explained and demonstrated you method of disassembly, analysis and troubleshooting in a clear and concise manner. Good Job!
I had a Monster HDP 1800 that momentarily cuts power when I plug in an equipment. The main relay turns off due to unstable power. Perhaps it was being robbed of power. Check a capacitor inline with the main relay or the bridge rectifier.
Same buzzing issue here. Thanks for posting the video! I was about to venture back to my EE days by repairing the surge protector but I have a new SP on the way. This one outlived my expectations and will be given a proper eulogy.
what did you get?
Thanks for posting this - I did the same and the buzzing is gone! Unbelievable. The amps and stuff still flickers though, but I fixed that with electrical tape over the numbers. 😎 Thanks for the video!
Dude thank you so much!
This was a well put together video and it is saving me a bunch of money while allowing me to expand my PCB building skills. Well done sir!
thanks
Thanks for the video; the same repair worked on my unit. I ordered part 493-13116-1-ND from Digi-Key. The original caps were rated for 85C; new ones are rated for 125C.
Thanks for posting that part #. I ordered the same and the buzzing is gone. Crazy! I wish I knew what caused the LED readouts to flicker zeros but that's not a big deal.
Thanks Kevin Cernekee. I also ordered part 493-13116-1-ND from Digi-Key. This fixed my buzz sound and also somehow fixed my power switch. Now I can switch to the off. It used to not shut off.
Good job! Others made videos and just yelled junk with no effort to fix!!
Thanks! 👍
Great vid!
At first I thought you were just some guy taking a what-have-I-got-to-lose chance at fixing it.
Then I hear the way you describe the capacitor.
You know what you're doing.
we all do our best
@@watdahel BTW, I also picked up one of these at Goodwill for $5 bucks. Fortunately, no buzzing.
AND another good score was a Monster Power HTS-5100 for $10. Again no buzzing, as apparently these are subject to also.
Thanks for the vid, it was a great help. I replaced the cap closest to the hot resistor and it solved my buzzing issue. For those who are interested, that hot resistor in my unit was in better shape with the colour bands still visible... it's a 3.4k (orange, yellow, red, gold). Mine was measuring at ~3.8k so I swapped it out. Judging by size alone, I think it's 2w
I'm guessing you mean 3.4K Ohm resistor. That's pretty close to what I measured. It probably is a 2 watt resistor.
Yep thanks
Any advice on where to find the replacement 3.4kOhm, 2 Watt resistor? Mine's pretty charred and google hasn't been as fruitfiul as usual for me. Thanks! -K
You can try digikey or mouse. They are big online electronic component distributors. I used a local distributor with a brick and mortar store so I didnt have to pay shipping. If you're in the GTA it's called Sayal electronics. Good luck
Mouser*
Replaced the caps fixed my buzz. The traces were broken at the resistor on mine and the resistors got very very hot before I caught that. Might want to check the traces on yours. I scraped down to the copper fluxed and tinned the trace then added the extra length from the cap to bridge to the resistor. I had to do that to both areas on the board. Once I fixed the traces the resistors did not get hot any longer. Also my resistor was in very good shape color band appears to be red white red gold. Thanks for the repair tips.
That would make yours 2.9K ohm resistor. What's the date of manufacture?
Date code is 04/10.
Electrolytic capacitors are known to make a buzzing sound when they go bad. Sometimes the buzzing gets higher and higher in frequency, until it goes "pop" and released the "magic smoke"...
Same exact thing happened to mine. Exactly the same thing with that same resistor.
Good job...
Thanks
Use to make pretty good stuff, square turquoise light only 1 I would own, have 2.
For $1.00 I would too try to fix it - And i -know- knew nothing.^ I think this stuff is Cool too. ^ know more Now ~ Good job - Thanks!
The same resister in yours that needed to be replaced is very loose in mine. I can’t see a copper connection on the board for it though. Is there any way of contacting you with a photo?
Same here.
Mine came with strange screws. It’s the French/European version. Does anyone know how those screws are called?
I just had the same issue with mine two weeks ago. I was considering doing the same repair, but I was curious:
Does it still seem to be functioning well after the repair?
Is the 105 C temperature for that style of power resistor typical?
My unit still functioning just as well since repair. Noise is gone. The noise was pretty much all that was wrong with it. The outlets were not affected. That capacitor is a smoothing, filter capacitor as part of a bridge rectifier.That one resistor reached near 120° C. I don't know if that is typical. Considering the age and minimal physical wear I think its still good so I didn't replace it. Measure your resistor and let me know the resistance for reference. It should've been lifted off the board on both ends to begin with like they do with their higher priced power conditioners.
I had the same thought. I never heard whether the resistance of the resistor was confirmed or if it had burned open. Great video though, well done😀
I have a similar issue but no buzzing sound, my unit just seems to shut down periodically. I've tried a different outlets I just need to observe it may put a scope on it and see if I if it's affected by something turning on and off in the house or if there's something heating up like what it looked. like you had. Again, well done video.
Has anyone ever replaced the MOVs within one of these or a similar monster power center? Goal would be to ensure the old strip actually has protection against surge. Any suggestions of steps & feasibility to do so?
Look at the MOVs and they should have a label printed on them you can search for. If you are replacing them replace them all at the same time with the same kind and specs. If the MOVs aren't the same then one MOV may wear out faster than the others. If you can't find exact model look for MOVs of at least the same size and clamping voltage. This becomes a balance: if you pick a MOV with lower clamping voltage then they will shunt every little surges and wear out faster. If you pick a MOV with higher clamping voltage they will pass the little surges which may be harmless and they will last longer. Do your research.
@@watdahel Thank you so much! Opening the unit I see a number of varistors model CNR-14D201K & CNR-20D201K. One last question if you happen to know: do you know if varistor parts starting with MOV or MVR (instead of CNR) are the same product? On digikey and mouser I don't see any parts starting with CNR, but instead see MOV & MVR versions. Thank you for any other feedback with this!
@@kleekum I believe MOV, MVR, CNR signify the model for their respective brands. You need to look at the data sheets of each one and make the comparisons.
how many watt for the resistance 3.5k Ohm...?
I'm not sure. I'm guessing 2 watts. If you're looking to replace you should measure the dimensions of your existing resistor and find a similarly sized resistor with as a high a wattage rating as possible and still fit. I compared a 3 watt resistor and it's dimensionally larger than what's on the Monster.
Mine went bad about a year later..Never purchased a Monster Power since nor will I in the future...I recycled it thru Best Buy
that was the exact same problem with mine and the same fix worked it is silent like a dread body except now the switch does not work anymore, it stays on the on position all the time.
One side is constantly on. The other is controlled by the switch.
agreed but when you push the switch to the off position it should turn off, mine stays lit all the time now.
When you plug the unit in do you hear the relays click? If the power switch red light is on regardless of it's position then you may have a faulty switch.
I have the same issues. I hear the relay when it's plugged in and the switch light turns on and off but power remains in both positions. Should I heard the relay when the switch is in the off position? Great video by the way.
Correction, power remains constant to only one side of the strip (vcr, cable, DVD, and tv) no matter the switch position. The other side of the strip functions properly.
Mines doing the same.
I know this is an older vid. but maybe somebody can help me. The switched outlet rocker switch 'stuck' in the middle. I cannot turn the switched outlets on on my HTS-1000. Is this due to some failure withing the strip? Thanks in advance.
Oh, great video, too :-)
The rocker switch is supposed to rock. If it doesn't move then it has failed. It can be replaced.
Do you know if that 3.5k resistor ok. Mine measured 5.7k.
Is there something wrong with your unit? Keep in mind I'm not sure whether mine was originally 3.5 KOhms as the color bands have faded off.
Great video, thank you. Mine was buzzing also, same burnt spots on the circuit board. The resistor has what looks like a black band on one end and a brown on the other end, nothing in between. That does not seem correct. It measures 5.7k. I tried looking for a schematic but no luck. Is your unit working now?
Mine works. I wouldn't worry about that resistor if you have no problem with your unit after replacing those capacitors. I would raise the resistors off the board just to keep them from burning the PCB further. The color bands tend to fade and change color when they are exposed to extreme heat for a long time. You really can't trust those bands at that point. If the ceramic coating starts flaking off, exposing the carbon strip then I would replace it. Resistors can also increase in resistance when they age. I'm still trying to get a consensus on the rating of that resistor. So far we got two values.
Thanks again, I will let you know if mine works when I receive the capacitors.
I did disconnect one end. Do you have any input as to the correct value of that resistor. Thank you
You may was well of changed that last smaller capacitor rather than leaving it in there.
over 5 years old, mine shows ON but no access to power. Pure junk
Time to call FTC.
Am I crazy for looking at that PCB and gasping in horror at shitty soldering blotches? I mean everyone was taking a shit on Monster for being overpriced and I can see why . This is ridiculous - pure garbage and shitty craftsmanship. My crappy one is doing same thing - but I ain't fixing that.Not risking burning my house down. What a waste
I fell asleep watching this
I'm glad you enjoyed it so much. Watch it a second time and it gets better.
Monster is the most disgusting company. Even $20 Sony headphones outperform their $500 headphones. The only company that doesn't even post their frequency response on their headphones. They can't even handle 20 Hz audio. They will rip you off and laugh at your gullible purchase!
The most overpriced greedy company I know of!
resistance 3.5k ,.there is no such thing ! just 3.4k or 3.6k
Monster Power Power filter design is poor, manufacturing is poor, a lot of flying lines, heard that the boss is Chinese, according to the circuit design level judgment, the designer is Chinese, the 1980 design level, manufacturing in China. The whole is a very backward product.
Stop playing with junk and get a real surge protector.
Sorry to be troll guy, that's not let me repeat NOT well build and infact it's so shite that it shouldn't be sold to anyone.
It actually looks like a monkey designed the PCB layout and a blind folded pig 🐷 soldered everything on 😂