One trick I have learned is something that future owners/plumbers will thank you for is with any underground installation, I backfill a few inches then run a length of caution tape above the line. This way, when (not if) someone comes around digging in that area either looking for the line or doing something else, at least there will be some indication that they are approaching an underground utility. If you want to be really fancy you can add the detector tape with metal in it to make finding the line easy from the surface, but regular caution tape is plenty to get the point across.
@@dominicm2175 Yeah, it's hungary that is in the standard. 60cm fill, tape of what is under, electrical, gas, water, telecom, sewage etc, then the rest of the fill. Also if you burry utilities together it also tells you how to separate and space them from each other.
You're do good at what you do and I find this so interesting. My well is over 700 feet down unfortunately. I've got 20 foot sections of PVC. They had to remove my fence and drive the crane into my back yard. . Our well only puts out 2gpm which sucks. And that was re-drilled by the prior homeowner. We went from a 3 wire that was tripping to a variable speed constant pressure setup. It's so much better. But hope it lasts. We've got a ton of manganese unfortunately . Wish you were around here. We need more honest experts. Love your videos. Jealous of these 70' wells!
Great information and explanations. I live in a rural area with well a municipal water but getting info on wells is difficult beyond reason. Thank you for the education.
Quality work and a quality video It's no wonder your work diary is full thru 2024 Building a business with a reputation for high standards of customer service - a pleasure to watch you working
What about putting the line in corrugated 4inch line so its not stuck in the dirt and could always be pulled again later. Also keeps weight directly off the line could help with rocks and such?
19:55 The company who installed the sewer pipes in my old neighborhood did a lazy job by laying PVC over uneven ground. I had my main line cameras and there wefe a few significant low spots in it (I kept it clear by flushing 5 gallon buckets through the toilet every once in a while) And as I was moving the neighbors house (also built 25 years ago, same as mine) had their main line snap and cause a blockage. Takes a while for these issues to show u sometimes,
Just watching you putting in water pipe and pump I'm surprised to see the final enspection and you don't have to put sand round pipe we here in Ireland have to put sand round pipe 6 inches under and over and minumen 2f 6in deep we go 3ft for frost pertection your doing great work every country has different specifications I also worked in England for 30 years higher specifications over there 👍 👍👍
Now for THE question: Mr. H20 Mechanic - I'm a cheapskate and want a well for a heat pump. The soil where I come from is clay and the static water level is at about 4 meters (between 2 rivers - 46.384425117958884, 16.442514462512733). The water bearing layer is made up of sand and gravel. Should I even try boring my own well (I want a 5 Inch casing, 2 meters filter pipe length, need about 4,4 gpm)? And yes, the cheapskate has built his heat pump himself, if you're wondering. Great channel, I learned so much, thank you for sharing your knowledge and know-how.
To see down a well on a sunny day use a mirror to shi e the sun in the hole. I had a neighbor that drilled wells. He taught me how to find water with a L shaped wire.
How did you do the electrical and have it sit at the top of the well seal like that? Looks really professional. I'm a plumber and would love to do my installs that way.
At 12:10 you're using that well seal. If you have a deep well with a system that weights over 400 pounds... is it going to hold it? what if it slips and drops in the well?
@@h2omechanic thank you! Is there any way to reduce the water hammer when the pump stops? My pipes makes a lot of noise and i am afraid it will damage the power wires over time
Hi there!! Very good videos, your explanations are awesome. I spent the whole weekend seeing your videos. Thanks a lot for your information. Have you got a link for buying black roll pipe? Thanks again!!!
Are you using Liquid-Tight flexible conduit for wire out of trench to junction box? I thought I had to use schedule 80 because this would be considered "subject to physical damage"???
When I watch electrical & plumbing videos on RUclips, I am always rather amazed by how easy the work is being done. PLC pipe carrying drinking water buried in the ground, electrical wiring just running loosely here and there, etc. In my neck of the woods, all wiring inside a house must be in metal conduit, all drinking water pipe must be copper, buried water pipe, from well or B-Box (in the case of municipal water) must be thick wall copper, uninterrupted from one end to the other & no fittings except at the end and no buried elbows. But I gather that most parts of the country have looser rules in regard these things. Also, it must be nice doing the work in Virginia (BTW, I have friends living out in the country in the rural Petersburg area, where water pipe can be only a couple feet below the surface (although friends of mine in the rural Tucson AZ area have THEIR water lines running on the surface or just a couple inches below), whereas where I live in the upper midwest, water must be at least 5 feet down. I also wonder if deeper wells in Virginia have the radon issues like they do in my neck of the woods. Around here, in most places wells less than a couple hundred feet are usually OK, but a lot of deeper wells have radon coming up and expensive mitigation systems must be installed to prevent that radioactive gas from ending up inside the house, venting it out to the atmosphere instead.
What kind of wire were you using to go down the well? The wire I’ve found has no outer sheath. It’s just three individual wires twisted around each other.
35:00 With you already having the trench so closely dug out right next to the well, I'm surprised you didn't go the extra mile and use a pitless adapter to keep the pipe at the same level as it is in the trench, so it doesn't have to come out of the ground exposed to cold air. Guessing it must not freeze there?
In germany we generally use black PE (not pvc) as waterlines and bed them in sand/very fine gravel to protect them. So its not overkill to at least remove rocks
The US is vast country with different regulations or norms depending on jurisdiction/ county. In my side of the country we use PEX (rated for burial) which is also polyethylene for main waterline.
I. Don't know what happened to the black water pipe they out in the beginning and taped the electric line to it. All of a sudden there was white pvc pipe in the ditch??
Is there a way to set up a well just for water faucets and a pond? Without using a pressure tank? If we used something like a Rain Bird irrigation system, without the tank, I would still have to go by pass the System if I wanted to use a faucet?
Nice work, hard work. You must be in the south as we have to be 4 feet deep and have to backfill with 6 inches of sand below and above the pipe to stop stone pressure from putting holes in the pipe as the ground here is extremely rockey. I have a question on the joining of the wire at the pump. We need to use special heat shrink fittings on the electric wire that when heated also seals at the ends of the fitting to the wire? Not the code there? We also have to use couplings 4 feet below the ground on the well casing (pitless adapter) so the pipes are never exposed to the cold. Does the builder ever leave a sleeve for your pipe and wire saving you from digging thru or under the foundation? Thanks for a great video.
hello i been watching your videos becuase i am trying to figure out what is wrong with mine, my well is at 75 feet and i have water but it is slow like it is only 30 psi it still runs but the pressure thing has me stumped. i have blown out the all the lines checking for sand and black sand and there was a little but got it all cleaned out, and if i shut the pump off for like a hour and turn it back on i have full pressure and i have a 30-50 switch on it and it does a pump and shuts off like it supposed to do and then the next morning i loose my pressure, that is what wierd and i dont understand why, my pump is only 6 years old and i still runs good, i just looking for little lidea what is going on, i live in ND. i am just asking to see what kind of anwer i get
Most likely, you have a leak somewhere that you haven't found. Most likely a toilet that's constantly running or leaking. See, by turning off the breaker it allows the well to recover & then the pump can build full pressure again (so we know the pumps good!) After its on for multiple hours, it leaks down to the pump intake and it runs constantly, so I believe that there's a pretty good leak happening somewhere. Check the toilets for leaking flappers and if any are hitting the overflow tube in the toilet tank. On very unlikely occasions I've had Waterline leaking underground near a drain field or a gutter drain & it is very hard to find the leak. But typically a water leak will surface & youll see it in the yard. Q- if you turn off the pump breaker, does the pressure gauge drop to 0psi? It's also possible for a leak to be in the well (on the drop pipe) but typically the switch would never go above 50 & cut off ever. I'd say your well is a slow production well, maybe 4-5gpm & you've got something wasting water when the system is on. So keep it off til u find it.
Don’t use metal staples, use plastic saddle back staples… and good job on the loop!!! and that electric cable you found may be for street lights…. DE N2JYG
Fixing to have a local company out here in fort worth drill a well for me. I was wondering why I couldn't have them drill up next to my metal building, and have only the well head outside, and put the pressure tank assembly and water softener inside my shop. Every well vid I see, the well is pretty far from house. Including the video from 11 months ago where you abandoned the customers old well, drilled a new well pretty far from home by the street. Any suggestions before I commit to where the well head goes?
Termite treatment is a big factor. They want 50-100 ft away from any structure that may have future treatment. There's also rules about septic & drain lines & water runoff, power lines, property lines ect. They look at the Lot Plans as a Blueprint and pick out the ideal well location, they also look at future septic repair areas & possible building additions. It's just alot they factor in. Not every site is the same conditions, but they treat it as such.
@@h2omechanic great info!! Will definitely discuss options with digger when they come out to see lay of the land. Good work on your channel, I know what it takes, and your sacrifice in time videoing and editing dont go unnoticed!
Can you help me with the pipe please. I can't find a 500 ft roll of pipe anywhere around. Can you put a joint in the well. Just doesn't seem like the best idea
500ft rolls are special order. You could pieces together 2 300ft rolls with a XL brass inline. But Do Not hang a pump at 500ft on poly pipe! It cannot handle the depth, or head pressure. At 500ft, it could see 300psi & the pipes only rated to 200 psi
Hi there. I love your videos. I installed my pump system myself a few months ago and now the system is not working. Would love your advice. My well is 131’ deep, static at 97, capacity 20gpm. I installed a Goulds 1.5hp 18gmp pump with a 1.5hp control panel and 40-60 psi pressure switch. Discovered no water and no pressure yesterday. When flicked the pressure switch sometimes sparks and sometimes doesn’t. You mentioned that could mean a faulty switch or a wire problem. I took the wires from the electrical box and connected it directly to the control panel (bypassing the switch) to see if the pump would fire up and it is not. Next I would test the wire connections from the ground wire to the submersible wire and pull up the pump to check other connections. What else should I consider?
Three phase equipment or pumps are easy to diagnose. No special equipment needed just a simple multimeter. Also capacitors can and do go bad from heat.
I remember another video of you where you admonished the use of electrical tape (which you seem to do here) rather than use fibre reinforced tape (which you’d have to cut and couldn’t tare as you did)
Hi am currently drawing “clean” lake water for my home and made it through the winter with heated tubing. I am wondering, since i am tight on money, do you know anything about filtration systems/water treatment? If so can you recommend a reliable and repairable model i could put in line with my bladder tank and shallow pump?
Is there any real reason they dont have the well drilled when the foundation is the only thing there, so that its easier for the well driller to get the pipe ran into the building?
Is it necessary to replace my pump wire if replacing the pump if wire looks ok or should I dig in my emergency fund and buy a 100 foot? Thank you sincerely jeff
I currently have a 3/4hp well, open well is 50-80ft deep, I am currently getting 7gpm, what can I do to increase my gpm to run a irrigation system? Can I just increase the size of my well pump?
You can try a new pump ,like a 15gpm pump. But its more complex than that . Typically I would test the well during heavy use to make sure its keeping up with the demand your using. It may be that the well only makes 7gpm at 80ft, not really a pump issue. Just understand installing a bigger pump, my not fix the issue...although it should if the well produces alot of water
Please respond to this 19:35 Are you telling me you charged 2800 for an entire well install plus pump setup? I was recently changed 6900 for jet pump, tank, and sediment filter to be installed.
Just a thought, why not have someone add about 10-15” to that auger? The idea is good, however I would make that one improvement. That way you can def get to the other side of a footer and hit it on the other side.
I feel the install of the PVC pipe on top of the crawl space wasn’t what I would have done. Couldn’t you attach the PVC to the bottom of the floor joists?
Hi Guy. We are having an issue with our well at the moment. The water pressure at our sink tap looses pressure. The pressure in the vessel seems fine maintaining steady PSI. Any ideas. Could it be the pressure switch. Thanks.
@@glasseyelid Thanks, that was the first thing we checked. We were thinking it might be the Faucet itself, you know when you turn your tap on and off it wasn't opening fully. In saying that we have an out door tap and the same thing is happening there. Water fly's out of the tap then pressure drops. Thanks.
Second question why not blue clear core. That's all we use in Montana. Major freeze thaw cycles. No fittings and unbelievable impact strength and flex.
One trick I have learned is something that future owners/plumbers will thank you for is with any underground installation, I backfill a few inches then run a length of caution tape above the line. This way, when (not if) someone comes around digging in that area either looking for the line or doing something else, at least there will be some indication that they are approaching an underground utility. If you want to be really fancy you can add the detector tape with metal in it to make finding the line easy from the surface, but regular caution tape is plenty to get the point across.
Not really a ‘trick’…pretty sure it’s code, at least it is in my neck of the woods ( Maine)
@@dominicm2175 It is for certain installations, but for something low voltage like communication lines it is not.
@@dominicm2175 Yeah, it's hungary that is in the standard. 60cm fill, tape of what is under, electrical, gas, water, telecom, sewage etc, then the rest of the fill. Also if you burry utilities together it also tells you how to separate and space them from each other.
The explanations, quality of work, and pride are amazing. Keep up the great work.
You're do good at what you do and I find this so interesting. My well is over 700 feet down unfortunately. I've got 20 foot sections of PVC. They had to remove my fence and drive the crane into my back yard. . Our well only puts out 2gpm which sucks. And that was re-drilled by the prior homeowner.
We went from a 3 wire that was tripping to a variable speed constant pressure setup. It's so much better. But hope it lasts. We've got a ton of manganese unfortunately . Wish you were around here. We need more honest experts.
Love your videos. Jealous of these 70' wells!
Great information and explanations. I live in a rural area with well a municipal water but getting info on wells is difficult beyond reason. Thank you for the education.
You folks are amazing tradesmen. Hard working and quality and attention to detail. Keep up the great work.
That door opened itself!... That's a Red flag 🚩... definitely haunted! 🐴
It was bowing to a master. 😆
It's not overkill, it's attention to detail.
I am a plumbing Contractor and I love the way H2O works,he don’t take chances he knows what is doing and does what he knows.
Your my second best show on utube/ alberta canada
Solid video, thank you. I'd like to hear more about what pipes can be used where and how much psi they manage.
Why are these videos so addictive?🤷♂️
Amazing work and attention to detail! Great job!
Another outstanding informative video. God Bless!
Quality work and a quality video
It's no wonder your work diary is full thru 2024
Building a business with a reputation for high standards of customer service - a pleasure to watch you working
Do it right the first time and you will not have to do it again!
Beautiful work. Good job.
Very nice job. You did a great job explaining each step in the process. Did you remember to get your shovel back?
What about putting the line in corrugated 4inch line so its not stuck in the dirt and could always be pulled again later. Also keeps weight directly off the line could help with rocks and such?
19:55
The company who installed the sewer pipes in my old neighborhood did a lazy job by laying PVC over uneven ground.
I had my main line cameras and there wefe a few significant low spots in it (I kept it clear by flushing 5 gallon buckets through the toilet every once in a while)
And as I was moving the neighbors house (also built 25 years ago, same as mine) had their main line snap and cause a blockage.
Takes a while for these issues to show u sometimes,
Outstanding work !!!
Nice work !! And love the attention to DETAIL !! U hardly see that anymore these days with Contractors and Vendors !! I'm a new Subscriber 😊
Just watching you putting in water pipe and pump I'm surprised to see the final enspection and you don't have to put sand round pipe we here in Ireland have to put sand round pipe 6 inches under and over and minumen 2f 6in deep we go 3ft for frost pertection your doing great work every country has different specifications I also worked in England for 30 years higher specifications over there 👍 👍👍
Now for THE question:
Mr. H20 Mechanic - I'm a cheapskate and want a well for a heat pump. The soil where I come from is clay and the static water level is at about 4 meters (between 2 rivers - 46.384425117958884, 16.442514462512733). The water bearing layer is made up of sand and gravel. Should I even try boring my own well (I want a 5 Inch casing, 2 meters filter pipe length, need about 4,4 gpm)?
And yes, the cheapskate has built his heat pump himself, if you're wondering.
Great channel, I learned so much, thank you for sharing your knowledge and know-how.
Good job you guys!
Nice work!
To see down a well on a sunny day use a mirror to shi e the sun in the hole. I had a neighbor that drilled wells. He taught me how to find water with a L shaped wire.
Nice work Brother.
Great work!
Great work. Why no pressure relief valve on your tank tees?
I like your work good job
Killing it bro but pls use the staples with the plastic insulation
How can a subdivision with that many houses each have their own well. Where I live, they would have to have a community well. It's weird to me.
Community well means community problems. Was on one and never again.
Heck no best to have your own well.
trickles of the trade
Love your shows , right on.
Very interesting !
What a pro, im going to attempt the same job diy
Another house without a basement. Where in tarnation do they store their Christmas decorations?
LOL the attic
For the residential area, how do you cover the well as it sticks out and is in the front yard??
what a professional, your video was entertaining and very informative. Thank You
Did you get your shovel back?
How did you do the electrical and have it sit at the top of the well seal like that? Looks really professional. I'm a plumber and would love to do my installs that way.
At 12:10 you're using that well seal. If you have a deep well with a system that weights over 400 pounds... is it going to hold it? what if it slips and drops in the well?
We switch over to a HD Steel 1 piece well seal past 300ft deep.
If people drop it, we fish it out!
@@h2omechanic thank you! Is there any way to reduce the water hammer when the pump stops? My pipes makes a lot of noise and i am afraid it will damage the power wires over time
For the ditch, would it be beneficial to put a layer of sand down below the pipe to help mitigate the risks you described?
Like the way you explain what you do any you do it that way.
Great video. Love the new audio.
Can you show the bit going into the ground at start up
Great video, thanks. By the way, what's the specification and type electrical cable you used for the connection to the house?
can i know what tipe wire are you used under the ground?
Great work... 🙂
Crawl space door just opens at the perfect time lmao
Clean job brother ❤
why do so many houses in our area only have a crowl space rather than a basement?
What if you're in an area with tons of rocks? Like more rocks than soil...
What material did you back fill with?
Do you put the supply electrical line in conduit before burying it or can you just bury it & use conduit only where it comes up out of the ground
Hi there!! Very good videos, your explanations are awesome. I spent the whole weekend seeing your videos. Thanks a lot for your information. Have you got a link for buying black roll pipe? Thanks again!!!
Unfortunately I don't sell pipe due to the cost of shipping. I only sell pumps & fittings since I don't get commercial shipping rates.
I would like to see when you drill the well and see what screens you use
ruclips.net/video/esicq4AcOls/видео.html
Drilling content ^
Did you ever find out what the stray wire was from during the trench dig?
What is the best heat to use at the well head.
Are you using Liquid-Tight flexible conduit for wire out of trench to junction box? I thought I had to use schedule 80 because this would be considered "subject to physical damage"???
It passes our states regulations for our inspectors.
Is it a good idea to check for leaks before close the ditch
Most new homes don't have power to test the system.
Hell yes nice!
You cleaning the trench is ok with when you your well is close but what about when you are 3 or 4 hundred feet away
When I watch electrical & plumbing videos on RUclips, I am always rather amazed by how easy the work is being done. PLC pipe carrying drinking water buried in the ground, electrical wiring just running loosely here and there, etc. In my neck of the woods, all wiring inside a house must be in metal conduit, all drinking water pipe must be copper, buried water pipe, from well or B-Box (in the case of municipal water) must be thick wall copper, uninterrupted from one end to the other & no fittings except at the end and no buried elbows. But I gather that most parts of the country have looser rules in regard these things.
Also, it must be nice doing the work in Virginia (BTW, I have friends living out in the country in the rural Petersburg area, where water pipe can be only a couple feet below the surface (although friends of mine in the rural Tucson AZ area have THEIR water lines running on the surface or just a couple inches below), whereas where I live in the upper midwest, water must be at least 5 feet down.
I also wonder if deeper wells in Virginia have the radon issues like they do in my neck of the woods. Around here, in most places wells less than a couple hundred feet are usually OK, but a lot of deeper wells have radon coming up and expensive mitigation systems must be installed to prevent that radioactive gas from ending up inside the house, venting it out to the atmosphere instead.
What kind of wire were you using to go down the well? The wire I’ve found has no outer sheath. It’s just three individual wires twisted around each other.
Kalas flat yellow 12-2 wire
@@h2omechanic
Thank you. 👍🏻
Why you no melt coupling connection in this time electrical?
35:00 With you already having the trench so closely dug out right next to the well, I'm surprised you didn't go the extra mile and use a pitless adapter to keep the pipe at the same level as it is in the trench, so it doesn't have to come out of the ground exposed to cold air. Guessing it must not freeze there?
Our state law requires a water sample port directly from the well head.
I lived in Wisconsin with wells. 2 questions….. pitiless adapter and on/off switch at tank? Thanks for an informative video.
Why do some well seals use a vent and sometimes just the blue plug?
Code per each area
I just watched one of your videos and you used black pipe in the trench
In germany we generally use black PE (not pvc) as waterlines and bed them in sand/very fine gravel to protect them. So its not overkill to at least remove rocks
The US is vast country with different regulations or norms depending on jurisdiction/ county. In my side of the country we use PEX (rated for burial) which is also polyethylene for main waterline.
I. Don't know what happened to the black water pipe they out in the beginning and taped the electric line to it. All of a sudden there was white pvc pipe in the ditch??
Is there a way to set up a well just for water faucets and a pond? Without using a pressure tank? If we used something like a Rain Bird irrigation system, without the tank, I would still have to go by pass the System if I wanted to use a faucet?
You always need a tank even if it's a small 2-4 gal one. It softens the water hammer that occurs in the system
Nice work, hard work. You must be in the south as we have to be 4 feet deep and have to backfill with 6 inches of sand below and above the pipe to stop stone pressure from putting holes in the pipe as the ground here is extremely rockey. I have a question on the joining of the wire at the pump. We need to use special heat shrink fittings on the electric wire that when heated also seals at the ends of the fitting to the wire? Not the code there? We also have to use couplings 4 feet below the ground on the well casing (pitless adapter) so the pipes are never exposed to the cold. Does the builder ever leave a sleeve for your pipe and wire saving you from digging thru or under the foundation? Thanks for a great video.
Share is your hot
Wire from the electric panel.?
So a 2-wire system is just a standard 220v with a ground,or 120v with a hot,neutral,and a ground?
It can be either if you buy a 115v pump. But typically most are 240v with 2 hot legs
Okay,thank you.@@h2omechanic
Can this setup with that type of pump be set up a a state like Maine?
Awesome video loved watching you work, true pros!
As a fellow Mainer, yes, we can. We are supposed to be at least 3 feet deep on the trench due to the frost line.
hello i been watching your videos becuase i am trying to figure out what is wrong with mine, my well is at 75 feet and i have water but it is slow like it is only 30 psi it still runs but the pressure thing has me stumped. i have blown out the all the lines checking for sand and black sand and there was a little but got it all cleaned out, and if i shut the pump off for like a hour and turn it back on i have full pressure and i have a 30-50 switch on it and it does a pump and shuts off like it supposed to do and then the next morning i loose my pressure, that is what wierd and i dont understand why, my pump is only 6 years old and i still runs good, i just looking for little lidea what is going on, i live in ND. i am just asking to see what kind of anwer i get
Most likely, you have a leak somewhere that you haven't found. Most likely a toilet that's constantly running or leaking.
See, by turning off the breaker it allows the well to recover & then the pump can build full pressure again (so we know the pumps good!)
After its on for multiple hours, it leaks down to the pump intake and it runs constantly, so I believe that there's a pretty good leak happening somewhere.
Check the toilets for leaking flappers and if any are hitting the overflow tube in the toilet tank.
On very unlikely occasions I've had Waterline leaking underground near a drain field or a gutter drain & it is very hard to find the leak.
But typically a water leak will surface & youll see it in the yard.
Q- if you turn off the pump breaker, does the pressure gauge drop to 0psi?
It's also possible for a leak to be in the well (on the drop pipe) but typically the switch would never go above 50 & cut off ever.
I'd say your well is a slow production well, maybe 4-5gpm & you've got something wasting water when the system is on. So keep it off til u find it.
Don’t use metal staples, use plastic saddle back staples… and good job on the loop!!! and that electric cable you found may be for street lights….
DE N2JYG
Fixing to have a local company out here in fort worth drill a well for me. I was wondering why I couldn't have them drill up next to my metal building, and have only the well head outside, and put the pressure tank assembly and water softener inside my shop. Every well vid I see, the well is pretty far from house. Including the video from 11 months ago where you abandoned the customers old well, drilled a new well pretty far from home by the street. Any suggestions before I commit to where the well head goes?
Termite treatment is a big factor. They want 50-100 ft away from any structure that may have future treatment. There's also rules about septic & drain lines & water runoff, power lines, property lines ect. They look at the Lot Plans as a Blueprint and pick out the ideal well location, they also look at future septic repair areas & possible building additions. It's just alot they factor in. Not every site is the same conditions, but they treat it as such.
@@h2omechanic great info!! Will definitely discuss options with digger when they come out to see lay of the land. Good work on your channel, I know what it takes, and your sacrifice in time videoing and editing dont go unnoticed!
Why don't you use pitless adapters?
Climate. Not necessary down south.
Most his work is in non frost areas
Would you recommend pex piping for well pipe?
Can you help me with the pipe please. I can't find a 500 ft roll of pipe anywhere around. Can you put a joint in the well. Just doesn't seem like the best idea
500ft rolls are special order. You could pieces together 2 300ft rolls with a XL brass inline. But Do Not hang a pump at 500ft on poly pipe! It cannot handle the depth, or head pressure. At 500ft, it could see 300psi & the pipes only rated to 200 psi
Hi there. I love your videos. I installed my pump system myself a few months ago and now the system is not working. Would love your advice. My well is 131’ deep, static at 97, capacity 20gpm. I installed a Goulds 1.5hp 18gmp pump with a 1.5hp control panel and 40-60 psi pressure switch. Discovered no water and no pressure yesterday. When flicked the pressure switch sometimes sparks and sometimes doesn’t. You mentioned that could mean a faulty switch or a wire problem. I took the wires from the electrical box and connected it directly to the control panel (bypassing the switch) to see if the pump would fire up and it is not. Next I would test the wire connections from the ground wire to the submersible wire and pull up the pump to check other connections. What else should I consider?
Three phase equipment or pumps are easy to diagnose. No special equipment needed just a simple multimeter. Also capacitors can and do go bad from heat.
Beautiful work! Question: how come your elbow is different color as the pipe? Is schedule 80 for the elbow schedule 40 for the pipe?
Dark 90⁰s are Sch80 yes.
I use them when the joint is buried underground. Just adding strength to the area that'll be under stress.
I remember another video of you where you admonished the use of electrical tape (which you seem to do here) rather than use fibre reinforced tape (which you’d have to cut and couldn’t tare as you did)
Are all the houses drawing off the same water source? Won't be pumping that much for long!
Hi am currently drawing “clean” lake water for my home and made it through the winter with heated tubing. I am wondering, since i am tight on money, do you know anything about filtration systems/water treatment? If so can you recommend a reliable and repairable model i could put in line with my bladder tank and shallow pump?
Google Big Blue inline filter. Those are great.
Since it's lake water, you may want to think about a UV light kit (I have 2 in stock on my site)
@@h2omechanic i really appreciate the response and will look into it as soon as i get the chance tonight
Is there any real reason they dont have the well drilled when the foundation is the only thing there, so that its easier for the well driller to get the pipe ran into the building?
Is it necessary to replace my pump wire if replacing the pump if wire looks ok or should I dig in my emergency fund and buy a 100 foot? Thank you sincerely jeff
I thought you would put an insulative sleeve on the pipe under the house so it wouldn’t freeze in the cold of the winter!
Why is there no vapor barrier under that new construction home?
I currently have a 3/4hp well, open well is 50-80ft deep, I am currently getting 7gpm, what can I do to increase my gpm to run a irrigation system? Can I just increase the size of my well pump?
You can try a new pump ,like a 15gpm pump. But its more complex than that .
Typically I would test the well during heavy use to make sure its keeping up with the demand your using. It may be that the well only makes 7gpm at 80ft, not really a pump issue.
Just understand installing a bigger pump, my not fix the issue...although it should if the well produces alot of water
cpvc or even copper underground
Please respond to this 19:35 Are you telling me you charged 2800 for an entire well install plus pump setup? I was recently changed 6900 for jet pump, tank, and sediment filter to be installed.
I put some dirt under me....but I'm still stressed day to day....any suggestions?
🍄 🍄 & 🌳 🌲 seems to be mother nature's natural stress relief 😅
What kind of tape do you use that doesn’t contaminate the water?
it's electrical tape. It doesn't degrade in water like duct tape does because it's entirely plastic.
Just a thought, why not have someone add about 10-15” to that auger? The idea is good, however I would make that one improvement. That way you can def get to the other side of a footer and hit it on the other side.
I feel the install of the PVC pipe on top of the crawl space wasn’t what I would have done. Couldn’t you attach the PVC to the bottom of the floor joists?
Are there 3 Phase well pumps? have you ever worked on one?
Yes. I have a video where I worked on a Koi fish farm. 3hp 3phase.
Hi Guy. We are having an issue with our well at the moment. The water pressure at our sink tap looses pressure. The pressure in the vessel seems fine maintaining steady PSI. Any ideas. Could it be the pressure switch. Thanks.
Normally that's a tank issue. Watch my tank videos on how to test it
@@h2omechanic Thanks I will check take care
Clean your faucet screen
@@glasseyelid Thanks, that was the first thing we checked. We were thinking it might be the Faucet itself, you know when you turn your tap on and off it wasn't opening fully. In saying that we have an out door tap and the same thing is happening there. Water fly's out of the tap then pressure drops. Thanks.
Second question why not blue clear core. That's all we use in Montana. Major freeze thaw cycles. No fittings and unbelievable impact strength and flex.