Aqui no Brasil tenho um aspirado 2.0 forester 2010 e o carro está sem potência e consumindo muito combustível, além de marcha lenta oscilando . Troquei o óleo e filtro, apaguei o código da falha p0011 e não voltou mais a acender, só que o carro continua ruim. Vou fazer esses procedimentos de retirada do filtro do banjo e limpeza dos solenóides para ver como fica. voltarei para informar o resultado . parabéns pelo vídeo que foi o mais explicativo da internet .
The clamps at 13:10 are not OEM and past repair/replacement of the vvts is detected! The clamps are stainless by the look of it so it's better in the long run but hard plastic pipe tends to leak without a crimp style clamps. Make sure those hose clamps are tight.
45 degree bent long nose pliers get those breather hoses off nice and easy after a wiggle. Same pressure both sides, the clamps are aftermarket on the passenger side (US passenger side) and the other side are factory wire clamps...they are rubbish though, hence someone changed out the passenger side ones. I had this P0011 code today on my UK 2007 STi....hoping it's just the UK drivers side solenoid. Well filmed and useful video, good talk through etc, thank you very much.
Thank you so much for your video. Likewise I received the PO0011/12 codes. Very educational. Auto zone read the code and wanted me to replace the wrong part(s). Your video make a lot more sense about what is actually going on. Thank you again
Thanks for the video! I just had the P0011 code pop up on my 09 wrx. So far I learned that my oil was very low due to the valve cover gasket having a slow leak on the passenger side. It is due for an oil change so I'll do that right after I fix the leak. I'm also having trouble of a huge cut out once I boost over 10-12 psi so I'm hoping if I have to change the solenoids then maybe that will fix that problem too. It currently has 312k miles on it so I knew problems were eventually going to start happening soon.
Warning I bought a pair of the non-OEM ocvs for my 2010 forester XT and they did not work at all. Not a big hassle to return through amazon but I have to wait a week for the OEM parts from Subaru. The way to check this yourself is to get a ~$12 vagcom cable and hook up a laptop with RomRaider logger. Then log intake OCV duty cycle along with the actual variable valve timing advance. When you go above 2000 rpm you should see the timing advance increase proportionally with the OCV duty cycle. With my old (160k mile original) ocvs there appeared to be some sticking on the passenger side where duty cycle would drop but timing advance would hang at the high point for a second or two before falling back to 0 while the driver side responded as normal. With the non-OEM ocvs it looked like duty cycle increased but there was never any change in timing advance at all through my entire test drive and I wound up throwing both p011 and p021 instead of just the intermittent “pending” p021s I’d seen before replacement.
J Robling seems like the item description on amazon may be messed up: “It will fit the following makes and models: 2005-2013 Subaru Forester 2.5L Ej255 Turbocharged” and it also showed the “Fits this vehicle” verification. Anyway it’ll only take 10 mins to swap in the OEM ones now that I’ve used this video as a starting point. Passenger side is identical layout on the 2010 and driver side only difference is you have to pop the oil fill tube out (3 bolts, no gaskets) and you’re good to go
Just found this. Have 2006 sti with 130,000 miles. Spt add ons. Question should I remove the turbo banjo bolt screen or not? Terrible subaru engineering. You just answered my question. Thanks. Saab has a much better design.
I blew the turbo on my 2005 FXT came up with P0011 and P0021 codes had no filters in these banjo bolts but did remove the filter out of the turbo feed line which was clogged and the cause of my issues
Any advice for if the problem remains? New turbo, both solenoids replaced, all screbs from banjo bolts removed. 2 oil changes after all that to flush it. Ran beautiful for 2 days and then threw the p0011 code again
How are the Amazon solenoids working for you so far? Have you monitored the OCV duty L & R since installing? I replaced both and the numbers are now matching but they seem to be higher then before.
Pat Doogan FYI I just got a pair of the amazon ones for my 2010 forester XT and they didn’t work at all. The reviews mention a couple other people having the same problem but basically the OCV duty cycle looked the same as before but did not result in any change in variable valve timing advance as you’d expect if the solenoids were actually opening and closing so VVT advance just stayed stuck at 0. OCV duty cycle is really just a measure of what the ECU is commanding but you also need to look at the result which is that the increased oil flow would advance the timing.
I've been having this code with my 12 WRX, I just changed my oil and replaced the sylenoid from auto zone, but I haven't touched my banjo bolts. should I take those out completely? I saw you still had yours in was a bit confused. I appreciate any advice!
You need to have the banjo bolts in place, it is the filter within the bolts that needs to be removed. For your year WRX i think the filter is in a different banjo bolt.
at 11:40 you advise that you may need to remove two hoses from the passenger side (we're talking North American roads), in order to remove the AVCS solenoid. What are those hoses for? do they contain fluid, liquid, coolant, etc...? I'm hoping that my EJ255 WRX engine (with turbo) is as easy as what you've shown here, because I'd prefer to save myself the $600 the garage quoted me for my P0011 code that has been the bane of my existence.
Those two banjo bolts you removed. Did you actually fish a filter out of the hole. I’m only asking because those supposedly have no filter. Only the bolts with a nipple have a filter. I checked both of those in my car. Check the bolt and the hole and no filter.
Neither of the bolts in my 2010 forester XT had a filter but I did have my turbo replaced at the dealership ~2 years ago and they supposedly resolved the oil flow issues which may have removed the screens. I would have never known I had to look so hard into the holes after pulling the bolts without this video since my impression was that the screens were supposed to come out when you pulled the bolts
Aqui no Brasil tenho um aspirado 2.0 forester 2010 e o carro está sem potência e consumindo muito combustível, além de marcha lenta oscilando . Troquei o óleo e filtro, apaguei o código da falha p0011 e não voltou mais a acender, só que o carro continua ruim. Vou fazer esses procedimentos de retirada do filtro do banjo e limpeza dos solenóides para ver como fica. voltarei para informar o resultado . parabéns pelo vídeo que foi o mais explicativo da internet .
The clamps at 13:10 are not OEM and past repair/replacement of the vvts is detected! The clamps are stainless by the look of it so it's better in the long run but hard plastic pipe tends to leak without a crimp style clamps. Make sure those hose clamps are tight.
45 degree bent long nose pliers get those breather hoses off nice and easy after a wiggle. Same pressure both sides, the clamps are aftermarket on the passenger side (US passenger side) and the other side are factory wire clamps...they are rubbish though, hence someone changed out the passenger side ones. I had this P0011 code today on my UK 2007 STi....hoping it's just the UK drivers side solenoid. Well filmed and useful video, good talk through etc, thank you very much.
Thank you so much for your video. Likewise I received the PO0011/12 codes. Very educational. Auto zone read the code and wanted me to replace the wrong part(s). Your video make a lot more sense about what is actually going on. Thank you again
Thanks for the video! I just had the P0011 code pop up on my 09 wrx. So far I learned that my oil was very low due to the valve cover gasket having a slow leak on the passenger side. It is due for an oil change so I'll do that right after I fix the leak. I'm also having trouble of a huge cut out once I boost over 10-12 psi so I'm hoping if I have to change the solenoids then maybe that will fix that problem too. It currently has 312k miles on it so I knew problems were eventually going to start happening soon.
Just got the code, gonna do the same steps. Ill keep you posted 📫
Did it work? I've got the p0011 on my 2011 sti 😭
I have p0011 I Will buy the oil control valve today trank you
Warning I bought a pair of the non-OEM ocvs for my 2010 forester XT and they did not work at all. Not a big hassle to return through amazon but I have to wait a week for the OEM parts from Subaru. The way to check this yourself is to get a ~$12 vagcom cable and hook up a laptop with RomRaider logger. Then log intake OCV duty cycle along with the actual variable valve timing advance. When you go above 2000 rpm you should see the timing advance increase proportionally with the OCV duty cycle. With my old (160k mile original) ocvs there appeared to be some sticking on the passenger side where duty cycle would drop but timing advance would hang at the high point for a second or two before falling back to 0 while the driver side responded as normal. With the non-OEM ocvs it looked like duty cycle increased but there was never any change in timing advance at all through my entire test drive and I wound up throwing both p011 and p021 instead of just the intermittent “pending” p021s I’d seen before replacement.
These parts are for the wrx sti and forester up to 06
J Robling seems like the item description on amazon may be messed up: “It will fit the following makes and models:
2005-2013 Subaru Forester 2.5L Ej255 Turbocharged” and it also showed the “Fits this vehicle” verification.
Anyway it’ll only take 10 mins to swap in the OEM ones now that I’ve used this video as a starting point. Passenger side is identical layout on the 2010 and driver side only difference is you have to pop the oil fill tube out (3 bolts, no gaskets) and you’re good to go
Can you remember if the original valve had the part number written on it?
Great video man!!
Thanks
Just found this. Have 2006 sti with 130,000 miles. Spt add ons. Question should I remove the turbo banjo bolt screen or not? Terrible subaru engineering. You just answered my question. Thanks. Saab has a much better design.
P0011 is driver side correct (North America)?
I blew the turbo on my 2005 FXT came up with P0011 and P0021 codes had no filters in these banjo bolts but did remove the filter out of the turbo feed line which was clogged and the cause of my issues
How did you remove it from the hose how far in was it?
My 04 forester xt has this code did everything I could to fix it but it just seized today😔
😥
It's not cam position sensor. It's timing is over advanced. You replaced the solenoid not the sensor
You genius you!
Any advice for if the problem remains?
New turbo, both solenoids replaced, all screbs from banjo bolts removed. 2 oil changes after all that to flush it.
Ran beautiful for 2 days and then threw the p0011 code again
Did you figure it out?
Timing belt messed with recently. I did mine, same issue you’re having
I also have a noise, but just started happening. Driving me nuts. So far unable to locate.
How was the Cobb stage one after you did this ?
How are the Amazon solenoids working for you so far? Have you monitored the OCV duty L & R since installing? I replaced both and the numbers are now matching but they seem to be higher then before.
Since replacing them I still have zero issues
Pat Doogan FYI I just got a pair of the amazon ones for my 2010 forester XT and they didn’t work at all. The reviews mention a couple other people having the same problem but basically the OCV duty cycle looked the same as before but did not result in any change in variable valve timing advance as you’d expect if the solenoids were actually opening and closing so VVT advance just stayed stuck at 0. OCV duty cycle is really just a measure of what the ECU is commanding but you also need to look at the result which is that the increased oil flow would advance the timing.
I've been having this code with my 12 WRX, I just changed my oil and replaced the sylenoid from auto zone, but I haven't touched my banjo bolts. should I take those out completely? I saw you still had yours in was a bit confused. I appreciate any advice!
You need to have the banjo bolts in place, it is the filter within the bolts that needs to be removed. For your year WRX i think the filter is in a different banjo bolt.
J Robling got it thanks I’ll let you know when I take it out and keep you updated! Thank you for all the advice in this video!
@@michaelbarreiro2282 Was that it? I have an '07.
What if you replaced both of these and still have the p0011 and p0021 code ?
Exact question I had and I replaced my turbo. Probably timing is off slightly, because I just just did all my pullies, WP, and tensioner and Tbelt.
What about the third one
at 11:40 you advise that you may need to remove two hoses from the passenger side (we're talking North American roads), in order to remove the AVCS solenoid. What are those hoses for? do they contain fluid, liquid, coolant, etc...? I'm hoping that my EJ255 WRX engine (with turbo) is as easy as what you've shown here, because I'd prefer to save myself the $600 the garage quoted me for my P0011 code that has been the bane of my existence.
Was it? I have an '07 ej255.
I have a 2011 wrx hatch and also got the P0011 can you tell me the parts I need. It’s actually both codes for both sides
Same here but my car is knocking now
I got a p0011 bank 1 so my question is what side is bank 1 lol
Passenger side I believe
Can find it ? Where was ? Bank 1 2005 wrx
I have p0011 VW touareg If u have any information let me know
Those two banjo bolts you removed. Did you actually fish a filter out of the hole. I’m only asking because those supposedly have no filter. Only the bolts with a nipple have a filter. I checked both of those in my car. Check the bolt and the hole and no filter.
Neither of the bolts in my 2010 forester XT had a filter but I did have my turbo replaced at the dealership ~2 years ago and they supposedly resolved the oil flow issues which may have removed the screens. I would have never known I had to look so hard into the holes after pulling the bolts without this video since my impression was that the screens were supposed to come out when you pulled the bolts
Mist have been removed already.
I would not buy amazon solenoids. They will not last if they work at all. Oem is best.
P0011 is driver side correct (North America)?