You still need a battery for stored starting amperage. The alternator with DC/DC converter would recharge the battery and run the ignition circuit and fan.
Maybe not with the lipo battery. It'd need a balance charger and lipos can take hours to charge at sane charging rates and generally don't like discharge while doing so, so maybe not entirely practical yet.
@@Maurice_Of_Wisdom why would that be? First, you can't really "charge while being used". You can only switch between charge and discharge. Lipos don't have a memory effect, like the old NiCd's you're probably thinking of, and don't care about partial charge cycles. A quality pack with good health also requires little to no balancing. Did you know, that in an RC Car, lipos see huge charging currents of multiple C each time you apply the brakes at high speeds? Many other devices like phones, laptops, off-grid Solar Battery systems, etc can also switch between charging and discharging, depending on load. It would probably be a good idea to fit a small BMS board to the battery to add safety against overcharging from the DIY Alternator and take care of any balancing needs, should some arise. Other than that, I don't see the problem.
@@fabianrudzewski9027 what i mean is in a rc car you can't really make a self sufficient system that doesn't need charging with just adding a alternator like real cars do How does a real car work? The battery has enough power to give to the starter motor and ignition before the engine is running after the engine is started and spinning the alternator takes over then alternator has enough power to make sure the battery is topped off and can start the motor again later when the car is turned off aka a self sufficient system because you don't need to charge the battery every time you come home from work for example and your done with the car. A car will run till it has gas and that's that. Now the reason why i say li-po don't work like that like you said there is only charge and discharge there is no inbetween a lipo cannot work as a self sufficient system in a petrol or nitro rc car with starter motors ignition system and all that But imma be honest: (the reason why i say this is because i have not seen this done ever and i would love to know if it's possible with a lipo or actually possible at all andif so i would like to know how you would go about it)
@@Maurice_Of_Wisdom there's no reason why you can't correctly size a generator for an RC Car. A BLDC Motor (which is what the cison alternator is) of this size can easily exceed 100w of power draw and you can expect similar output when operating as a generator. The cison one might be too weak for the average current draw of johnys car. It's only rated at 12V 1A. Where did you get the idea, that a Lithium Battery can't do anything between charging and discharging? A lithium battery can absolutely sit connected to a power supply at constant voltage and have no current flowing, that's literally part of their charging procedure. Constant current until their final charge voltage, then final charge voltage until current declines to a trickle or to zero. In short: CC/CV charging. Lithium batteries have a relation between the state of charge and voltage. If you connect a battery to a PSU that's set between it's upper and lower voltage limits, the battery charges/discharges until it's voltage matches the PSU's voltage and current stops flowing. From then on, the battery can sit connected to the PSU indefinitely. Use a Generator as the PSU and you've got your onboard electrical system. If you want to see some applications of Lithium starter batteries, look at MHEV Cars or light weight Motorcycle batteries (both my bikes have lithium batteries). In case of the latter, you can simply toss your lead battery and fit a lighter lithium one. No changes to the electrical system required
I made an alternator/charging circuit for a scale engine a few years ago. I used a brushless motor feeding a rectifier, dc/dc converter set to 14V and the smallest lead acid battery i could get (50cc moped). I never finished building the engine but the circuit worked, I ended up fitting it to a fan and using it as a wind powered trickle charger
Exactely, using a capacitor is going the right direction, but the capacitor needs to be charged and only acts as a power-extension. In theory, it would work, but the issue is with the starte the alternator doesnt produce enough power to make these 12V...maybe with a smaller capacitor it would work, it only needs to provide 12V for a second or two, but this big one takes a minute to charge...
Disregarding voltage spikes causing issues you can full run a car without a battery, you just cant start it without one (or some other stored potential like a super cap bank). The fact that the alternator charges a battery means it's putting out enough power to run the car, and charge the battery. Voltage regulation can be an issue which could cause voltages spikes that things won't like, but a well designed charging system should be able to cope with it.
@@Pitstopcomponents You still need that battery to start your car without pushing it every morning just to jump start it. Driving without battery is completely doable, i managed to drive my ex car 160km back to home without any battery on it 😅 My old battery exploded so i had no other option at the time, remove that melted battery and push start my car alone on tiny hill 😐 Was it the best idea, hell no! I bet my alternator was not happy about that trip 😵
I have small advice for you. I understand it’s to late, but at least, you can put cylinder lines much easier. Before assembly the engine, just keep them in freezer for few hours, and it will go inside mach easy without damaging o-rings 😉
Time to play with the distributor timing. Sounds like it needs to be advanced ! Also sounds like it might be leaning out but difficult to tell from the video. Could always put a wideband o2 on the exhaust to see the afr. Unsure of the jetting system on these. Great work man! Love the videos !
Could definitely tell on the thermal cam, one bank of the engine is running lean, also agree with the timing being slightly retarded, sounds like its detonating.
I think the copper head gasket was great, the heads didn't look the smoothest TBH so I reckon that is helping the compression. Also, with the alternator, use that to charge a small 12v battery and then have a couple of dc-dc converters to run the fan and the ignition. Great video as always ;)
Use the alternator to charge the battery and let everything run off the battery. It wouldn't start because the starter can't crank fast enough to spin up the alternator enough.
Man, you have saved me so much money and you don't even know it. I was absolutely going to buy one of these engines until I saw how much you've had to put into them to make them anything halfway decent and I don't have any of the resources that you have to make it work
You are perfect ! It would be nice to see this v8 with independent coil ignition system as @warpedperception channel did in their mini v12 ! The sound of the engine changes from the night to day ! Congrats
Yeah but wouldn't the ECU be to big or am I just dumb🤔 or are there tiny after market ECU for RC or bikes that would fit in this Cassie idk I just got into rc stuff 😅
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk That could also potentially work, but I don't see any used here. The better option is to just not mix a large flat surface of copper with a large flat surface of aluminium.
@@leightonparker3855apparently you know little to nothing about race cars. Copper head gaskets are used on all of them. It’s not like this thing is going to see 200k miles lol. These stupid little scaled engines don’t make it off the bench before they implode.
Once again JohnnyQ90..........BRILLIANT work on figuring out ways to connect everything together so it's "functional"! I love watching all your videos when it comes to smaller engines!
Maybe use 1 big battery to power the ignition and fan and use the alternator to continuously charge the battery!! Just like a car alternator uses the battery to power the ignition system and electronics. I think the voltage is correct but the current at start js far to low and likely needs to be at higher revs for a useful current so its better to run everything off 1 battery big enough to run all electronics and charge the battery off that tiny alternator
Wouldn't you be hardening the copper instead of annealing it when you quenched it in the water? Everything I know about annealing is to heat up the material and let it cool gradually by keeping it warm rather than rapid cooling by quenching, but alas I've never worked with copper sheets so I may be wrong.
@mrandy1995 Wrong. It's you that doesn't know. It makes no difference to the annealing process - quench or cool slowly. Further, heating and rapid cooling DOES NOT harden copper as the "never worked with copper" @jake8714 suggests.
Having worked copper for over 45 years I tell you and the other ignorants here that copper never hardens by rapid cooling after reaching annealing temps. NEVER
Great job JQ90! These are really great engines with a lot of power compared to others. I've got a 1/7th scale drag car I'm working on, and seeing your improvements are definitely nice. I have a few others I've been suggesting to the manufacturer as well (Lifters, plug wiring/terminals, etc). Few other minor items. Otherwise these engines are really nice, IMO. My biggest hurdle right now is getting the power to the pavement in such a light car (11.5 lbs). Right now it just smokes the tires.
This is looking awesome! Also, the alternator doesn't spin fast enough during starting to make enough power to run the ignition directly, so a large capacitor to store up energy until it reaches enough voltage to run the ignition and get the engine idling might work. In a full-size vehicle with none of the advanced electrical modern comforts beyond a basic ECU, it takes a constant 4 to 5 amps at 12.6 to 14.4 volts to maintain an idle, that is to say fuel pump, ECU, ignition and fuel injection. An amp can probably be subtracted for a carbureted engine, and another amp for a mechanical fuel pump, though perhaps another half amp for mechanical ignition, so a tiny alternator on a tiny engine likely needs to build up enough voltage to get the ignition started before it can run under its own power. Its kind of like a magneto system, it has to reach a certain RPM before the magneto is getting enough voltage to create a spark, and once that happens the engine starts to generate power until its self-sufficient. I'm kinda spitballing my thoughts here, I'm tired and the coffee hasn't kicked in yet XD
You are right and wrong. A big capacitor is not goign to work. A old car... a really old car without a ECU only uses a battery for starting and for the Ignition coil. The starter is the main reason for a big battery... but the Ignition is a constant user... once the engine runs, the battery becomes useless since the alternator provides all the power required. But we talk about a battery, not a capacitor. A battery stores power for long times and can give the power off for a while, while a capacitor is something that cannot "hold" a charge, it needs power to get charged, and as soon as that power is gone, it will give its stored power away again... this means that for starting, you need a full capacitor charge, and if you are only providing a small amount of electricity, this means it will take ages to get that charge. His contraption works, but he needs to spin the engine for 1-2 minutes straight.... a battery on the other hand will provide that charge from the start... imagine your car battery being dead, and you need to charge it.... imagine charging your car battery by letting the engine crank with a second battery hooked to the starter... doesnt make sense right???
Oh and by the way, mechanical Ignition needs less Volts, because it is just as simple as a electronical distributor ignition... instead of a hall-sensor, you get a small cam that opens and closes contacts that then transmit power to the distributor arm and then to the currently active cylinder.
@@bluebird8004 Oddly enough, I write less, since my thoughts are more scattered. The coffee kicks in and though my brain speeds up I basically go from grip to drift if that makes any sense. When I'm slow pre-coffee I can't discern well if I'm making any sense, but when I'm amped on caffeine I have little coherence. Now its late enough that the caffeine has mostly worn off XD
With the rectifier and cap in place, all you need is a regulator. A DC 2 DC (technically DC to AC to DC) convertor works on a slightly different principle that doesn't guarantee that you will get enough usable current, especially on startup. Regulators on the other hand usually offer better current flow capabilities, especially on startup. There are many to meet almost every need in terms of input/output voltage regulation as well as current handling capabilities. In electronics terms, it a basic regulated power supply. 🖖😎👍
¡Qué sonido tan espectacular!, Después de haber corregido los detalles que nos mostraste en este video, el motor suena increíble y muy estable, ¡Ademas de potente!, me encantara verlo montado con una gran carrocería de mucha estetica y donde se permita lucir todo el esplendor de su rugir, saludos!
You could use the output from the alternator to charge one of the onboard batteries by utilizing a battery management system and A 12v battery (maybe a small 12v Lithium pack to save weight) then use DC/DC buck boost converters to breakoff all the voltages you need. keep in mind you MUST use some sort battery management system with lithium batteries and LiPo batteries alike.
JohnnyQ90’s builds are next-level inspiration! At Mantaray Motors, we’re pushing the boundaries to, developing a 3D-printed RC car powered by any mini engine that will soon be available for purchase. Stay tuned, RC enthusiasts you won’t want to miss what’s coming next!
It looks and sounds great, I wonder how reliable it is though? I’m curious at if it’d over heat, not perform and bog down under load etc etc. the water in the oil is concerning, yes skimming the block and heads is an easy job, but if that’s not the issue, it’d leave the head gasket failing. Do they do upgraded ones with copper inserts?
Restriction in the cooling system is not necessarily a bad thing. Coolant needs time to absorb heat. Why mechanics say to run a thermostat, even if it's gutted.
@ ok why?......it's not a misconception its thermodynamic law. Because there is a 100 percent chance that at some point the flow will be too fast for the water to have enough time in the radiator to shed enough heat or in block absorbing heat. Most engines it's never going to be a problem because of the design characteristics.
@@royb.1441 It's hard to explain for me in English, but I'll try. The coolant is just acts as a medium and is in constant motion. If you slow down this movement with lower flow rates you reduce the thermal flow, the efficiency of cooling. If given part of the coolant has more time to heat up the heat stays in engine and does not reach the radiator. More delta T -> better heat flow.
You should add a BMS that lets you draw power from the battery, while there is nothing coming from the alternator, and when the motor is running, the BMS switches power sources to the alternator, leaving the battery isolated and charging
Those dc to dc coverter don't have enough current to start the engine at low rpm. But good enough to recharge the battery, but when it up to idling speed, it should be able to sustain it even if you unplug the battery. Probably need batter DC regulator and higher power, you can try an actual car alternator regulator.
i cant hep to think that carb is restrictive...intake and exhaust ports as well, I wish they made a dual carb intake. did you lap the valves when you assembled it?
I'm sure your new head gaskets will work great, but I have a question about annealing. I thought heating with a quick plunge to cool hardened the metal. I thought annealing was heating metal and giving it as long as possible to cool down?
It's 3.25 nm based on their claimed hp rating. I've got the same engine, in a 1/7th scale car that weighs 11.5 lbs, and without even having it fully tuned yet, it's just a donut machine at this point, so I'm inclined to believe the rating is somewhat accurate. It's vastly more powerful than my big block nitro or any 2/3s cars I've seen.
You need a battery since that alternator has a field generator instead of permanent magnets you need the battery to excite the coils to start charging.
You still need a battery for stored starting amperage. The alternator with DC/DC converter would recharge the battery and run the ignition circuit and fan.
why do you think he switched to the fan instead?
You are damn right I would have done this way too . Alternator to recharge the battery
@@muffinvapes Like a real engine.
a sealed lead acid battery... :D
Maybe not with the lipo battery. It'd need a balance charger and lipos can take hours to charge at sane charging rates and generally don't like discharge while doing so, so maybe not entirely practical yet.
you should use the alternator to power a charging module for the 3S, so that it is always charged in addition to the fan power supply.
Li-po batteries do NOT like being used while being charged
I wish it was possible but that is completely out of the question
@@Maurice_Of_Wisdom DIODE.
@@Maurice_Of_Wisdom why would that be?
First, you can't really "charge while being used". You can only switch between charge and discharge. Lipos don't have a memory effect, like the old NiCd's you're probably thinking of, and don't care about partial charge cycles. A quality pack with good health also requires little to no balancing.
Did you know, that in an RC Car, lipos see huge charging currents of multiple C each time you apply the brakes at high speeds? Many other devices like phones, laptops, off-grid Solar Battery systems, etc can also switch between charging and discharging, depending on load.
It would probably be a good idea to fit a small BMS board to the battery to add safety against overcharging from the DIY Alternator and take care of any balancing needs, should some arise. Other than that, I don't see the problem.
@@fabianrudzewski9027 what i mean is in a rc car you can't really make a self sufficient system that doesn't need charging with just adding a alternator like real cars do
How does a real car work? The battery has enough power to give to the starter motor and ignition before the engine is running after the engine is started and spinning the alternator takes over then alternator has enough power to make sure the battery is topped off and can start the motor again later when the car is turned off aka a self sufficient system because you don't need to charge the battery every time you come home from work for example and your done with the car. A car will run till it has gas and that's that.
Now the reason why i say li-po don't work like that like you said there is only charge and discharge there is no inbetween a lipo cannot work as a self sufficient system in a petrol or nitro rc car with starter motors ignition system and all that
But imma be honest: (the reason why i say this is because i have not seen this done ever and i would love to know if it's possible with a lipo or actually possible at all andif so i would like to know how you would go about it)
@@Maurice_Of_Wisdom there's no reason why you can't correctly size a generator for an RC Car. A BLDC Motor (which is what the cison alternator is) of this size can easily exceed 100w of power draw and you can expect similar output when operating as a generator. The cison one might be too weak for the average current draw of johnys car. It's only rated at 12V 1A.
Where did you get the idea, that a Lithium Battery can't do anything between charging and discharging? A lithium battery can absolutely sit connected to a power supply at constant voltage and have no current flowing, that's literally part of their charging procedure. Constant current until their final charge voltage, then final charge voltage until current declines to a trickle or to zero. In short: CC/CV charging.
Lithium batteries have a relation between the state of charge and voltage. If you connect a battery to a PSU that's set between it's upper and lower voltage limits, the battery charges/discharges until it's voltage matches the PSU's voltage and current stops flowing. From then on, the battery can sit connected to the PSU indefinitely. Use a Generator as the PSU and you've got your onboard electrical system.
If you want to see some applications of Lithium starter batteries, look at MHEV Cars or light weight Motorcycle batteries (both my bikes have lithium batteries). In case of the latter, you can simply toss your lead battery and fit a lighter lithium one. No changes to the electrical system required
I love these miniature engines!
It also be nice to have enough money to buy them.
Yeah youre right@@TheManLab7
@@TheManLab7 I have enough to buy them, but I could find and build a real v8
I made an alternator/charging circuit for a scale engine a few years ago. I used a brushless motor feeding a rectifier, dc/dc converter set to 14V and the smallest lead acid battery i could get (50cc moped). I never finished building the engine but the circuit worked, I ended up fitting it to a fan and using it as a wind powered trickle charger
Full size engines still need a battery to run the ignition not just the starter motor. The alternator takes over after the engine is started.
Exactely, using a capacitor is going the right direction, but the capacitor needs to be charged and only acts as a power-extension. In theory, it would work, but the issue is with the starte the alternator doesnt produce enough power to make these 12V...maybe with a smaller capacitor it would work, it only needs to provide 12V for a second or two, but this big one takes a minute to charge...
@@Pitstopcomponents Wrong, and you can easily build a capacitor battery for starting the engine and save half a pound of net weight.
Disregarding voltage spikes causing issues you can full run a car without a battery, you just cant start it without one (or some other stored potential like a super cap bank). The fact that the alternator charges a battery means it's putting out enough power to run the car, and charge the battery. Voltage regulation can be an issue which could cause voltages spikes that things won't like, but a well designed charging system should be able to cope with it.
@ Them tell me why every single car on this planet drives around with a heavy 12V battery!!!
@@Pitstopcomponents You still need that battery to start your car without pushing it every morning just to jump start it.
Driving without battery is completely doable, i managed to drive my ex car 160km back to home without any battery on it 😅
My old battery exploded so i had no other option at the time, remove that melted battery and push start my car alone on tiny hill 😐
Was it the best idea, hell no!
I bet my alternator was not happy about that trip 😵
I have small advice for you. I understand it’s to late, but at least, you can put cylinder lines much easier. Before assembly the engine, just keep them in freezer for few hours, and it will go inside mach easy without damaging o-rings 😉
Time to play with the distributor timing. Sounds like it needs to be advanced ! Also sounds like it might be leaning out but difficult to tell from the video. Could always put a wideband o2 on the exhaust to see the afr. Unsure of the jetting system on these. Great work man! Love the videos !
Sounded like it was wanting to chop lol
@ hahaha right! My car does the same thing when you retard the timing too much. Sounds like it has a fat cam in it 😂
@@john79lewis5 haha right! My car sounds the exact same when time timing is retarded too much. Sounds like it has a fat cam in it!
Could definitely tell on the thermal cam, one bank of the engine is running lean, also agree with the timing being slightly retarded, sounds like its detonating.
I think the copper head gasket was great, the heads didn't look the smoothest TBH so I reckon that is helping the compression. Also, with the alternator, use that to charge a small 12v battery and then have a couple of dc-dc converters to run the fan and the ignition. Great video as always ;)
Wpuld have been cool to run single battery for the whole car + the alternator can charge the battery so you only need to put gas for it work 😊
Use the alternator to charge the battery and let everything run off the battery. It wouldn't start because the starter can't crank fast enough to spin up the alternator enough.
better still, use a relay to switch from bat to alt once the alt puts out enough juice then unplug bat.
Man, you have saved me so much money and you don't even know it. I was absolutely going to buy one of these engines until I saw how much you've had to put into them to make them anything halfway decent and I don't have any of the resources that you have to make it work
Finally a engine with alternator❤.
Now we need reverse , brake and amber turn signal for rear and front and head lights and horn.
hes done all that besides lights
Who needs a horn when you have a v8
@@floork24 it is a car so need.
@@Mostafa-vs8bd it was a joke
I was going to say air conditioning.
You are perfect ! It would be nice to see this v8 with independent coil ignition system as @warpedperception channel did in their mini v12 ! The sound of the engine changes from the night to day ! Congrats
I thought of this too. Seem like the ignition systems of these engines just arent made very well. Maybe its also tricky to make it at this scale.
Yeah but wouldn't the ECU be to big or am I just dumb🤔 or are there tiny after market ECU for RC or bikes that would fit in this Cassie idk I just got into rc stuff 😅
and then destroy the engine just like @warpedperception did. dude's headers couldn't stay attached, lol.
This needs to be in a 1/6th scale tropy truck like the Super Baja Rey! SO COOL!
The engine is all show, no go. It could only power a Super Baja rig to like 10 mph.
@@toolbaggers false. I have one in a 1/7th scale drag car. It's got a LOT of go.
Future project idea: maybe make a scale Top Fuel Dragster with the OVH V8 (or a different V8 model) as its engine? That would be awesome to see!
Before mending it's working like a latte machine, good job Johnny my friend
Your fabrication with hand tools is on point!
You always get things figured out… it’s quite awesome to watch you work 👍
The headgasket was brilliant!
I've made copper gaskets by taping one side of copper then super glue to aluminum then using a cnc mill to mill the gasket worked really well
If the block or head is made of aluminium, please be careful of galvanic corrosion with the copper head gasket
Or use the Toyota Long Life Coolant (the pink one) as that doesn't seem to have that problem...oh wait...
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk That's like saying to stop a bomb from detonating, you can use a longer fuse.
@@leightonparker3855
Or sacrificial anodes? (for an engine...e.g outboard motors operating in salt water)
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk That could also potentially work, but I don't see any used here. The better option is to just not mix a large flat surface of copper with a large flat surface of aluminium.
@@leightonparker3855apparently you know little to nothing about race cars. Copper head gaskets are used on all of them. It’s not like this thing is going to see 200k miles lol. These stupid little scaled engines don’t make it off the bench before they implode.
Once again JohnnyQ90..........BRILLIANT work on figuring out ways to connect everything together so it's "functional"! I love watching all your videos when it comes to smaller engines!
I immediately thought of forced induction when i seen you making copper head gaskets 😊
have you thought about using an on board battery to stabilize the start and then it would charge and buffer the system?
Maybe use 1 big battery to power the ignition and fan and use the alternator to continuously charge the battery!! Just like a car alternator uses the battery to power the ignition system and electronics. I think the voltage is correct but the current at start js far to low and likely needs to be at higher revs for a useful current so its better to run everything off 1 battery big enough to run all electronics and charge the battery off that tiny alternator
I absolutely love this channel. I’ve been a subscriber for a few years I believe, but this is my first comment. We need more creators like you!
Wouldn't you be hardening the copper instead of annealing it when you quenched it in the water? Everything I know about annealing is to heat up the material and let it cool gradually by keeping it warm rather than rapid cooling by quenching, but alas I've never worked with copper sheets so I may be wrong.
To anneal aluminum or copper, you heat and quench.
@@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 i have never head of that...
@mrandy1995 Wrong. It's you that doesn't know. It makes no difference to the annealing process - quench or cool slowly.
Further, heating and rapid cooling DOES NOT harden copper as the "never worked with copper" @jake8714 suggests.
Having worked copper for over 45 years I tell you and the other ignorants here that copper never hardens by rapid cooling after reaching annealing temps. NEVER
Crazy good engineering. Excellent comments too.
what tool do you use at 5:26 for point welding?
Spot welder
@ is not a common spot welder it sounds like some argon gas is open before the tach and the electrode retract
Great job JQ90! These are really great engines with a lot of power compared to others. I've got a 1/7th scale drag car I'm working on, and seeing your improvements are definitely nice. I have a few others I've been suggesting to the manufacturer as well (Lifters, plug wiring/terminals, etc). Few other minor items. Otherwise these engines are really nice, IMO. My biggest hurdle right now is getting the power to the pavement in such a light car (11.5 lbs). Right now it just smokes the tires.
This is looking awesome! Also, the alternator doesn't spin fast enough during starting to make enough power to run the ignition directly, so a large capacitor to store up energy until it reaches enough voltage to run the ignition and get the engine idling might work. In a full-size vehicle with none of the advanced electrical modern comforts beyond a basic ECU, it takes a constant 4 to 5 amps at 12.6 to 14.4 volts to maintain an idle, that is to say fuel pump, ECU, ignition and fuel injection. An amp can probably be subtracted for a carbureted engine, and another amp for a mechanical fuel pump, though perhaps another half amp for mechanical ignition, so a tiny alternator on a tiny engine likely needs to build up enough voltage to get the ignition started before it can run under its own power. Its kind of like a magneto system, it has to reach a certain RPM before the magneto is getting enough voltage to create a spark, and once that happens the engine starts to generate power until its self-sufficient.
I'm kinda spitballing my thoughts here, I'm tired and the coffee hasn't kicked in yet XD
You are right and wrong. A big capacitor is not goign to work. A old car... a really old car without a ECU only uses a battery for starting and for the Ignition coil. The starter is the main reason for a big battery... but the Ignition is a constant user... once the engine runs, the battery becomes useless since the alternator provides all the power required. But we talk about a battery, not a capacitor. A battery stores power for long times and can give the power off for a while, while a capacitor is something that cannot "hold" a charge, it needs power to get charged, and as soon as that power is gone, it will give its stored power away again... this means that for starting, you need a full capacitor charge, and if you are only providing a small amount of electricity, this means it will take ages to get that charge. His contraption works, but he needs to spin the engine for 1-2 minutes straight.... a battery on the other hand will provide that charge from the start... imagine your car battery being dead, and you need to charge it.... imagine charging your car battery by letting the engine crank with a second battery hooked to the starter... doesnt make sense right???
Oh and by the way, mechanical Ignition needs less Volts, because it is just as simple as a electronical distributor ignition... instead of a hall-sensor, you get a small cam that opens and closes contacts that then transmit power to the distributor arm and then to the currently active cylinder.
Interesting to see how much you write when the coffee does kick in 😂
@@bluebird8004 Oddly enough, I write less, since my thoughts are more scattered. The coffee kicks in and though my brain speeds up I basically go from grip to drift if that makes any sense. When I'm slow pre-coffee I can't discern well if I'm making any sense, but when I'm amped on caffeine I have little coherence. Now its late enough that the caffeine has mostly worn off XD
Its so interesting to see how well you make things, looks easy for you. AMAZING skills 👍❤️
Can't wait to see you build the chuanqi 277cc big v8! It sounds so amazing!
Amazing! I’m at ahh with this project, very nicely executed my friend
did you check the buck-boost for it's max amp's?
With the rectifier and cap in place, all you need is a regulator. A DC 2 DC (technically DC to AC to DC) convertor works on a slightly different principle that doesn't guarantee that you will get enough usable current, especially on startup. Regulators on the other hand usually offer better current flow capabilities, especially on startup. There are many to meet almost every need in terms of input/output voltage regulation as well as current handling capabilities.
In electronics terms, it a basic regulated power supply.
🖖😎👍
¡Qué sonido tan espectacular!, Después de haber corregido los detalles que nos mostraste en este video, el motor suena increíble y muy estable, ¡Ademas de potente!, me encantara verlo montado con una gran carrocería de mucha estetica y donde se permita lucir todo el esplendor de su rugir, saludos!
You could use the output from the alternator to charge one of the onboard batteries by utilizing a battery management system and A 12v battery (maybe a small 12v Lithium pack to save weight) then use DC/DC buck boost converters to breakoff all the voltages you need. keep in mind you MUST use some sort battery management system with lithium batteries and LiPo batteries alike.
0:09 forbidden milkshake
Nice work! Have you thought about using a 15mm fan and rad? It might be a little less affective, but it is more scale.
JohnnyQ90’s builds are next-level inspiration! At Mantaray Motors, we’re pushing the boundaries to, developing a 3D-printed RC car powered by any mini engine that will soon be available for purchase. Stay tuned, RC enthusiasts you won’t want to miss what’s coming next!
Always a good day when jq90 puts up a new vid!!!🎉
Love this buid! You are a tallented guy!
Hi Johnny, have you done any welding tests on different materials with this welder? I'd be curious to know if it can weld aluminum
It looks and sounds great, I wonder how reliable it is though?
I’m curious at if it’d over heat, not perform and bog down under load etc etc. the water in the oil is concerning, yes skimming the block and heads is an easy job, but if that’s not the issue, it’d leave the head gasket failing. Do they do upgraded ones with copper inserts?
Coming along nicely ❤❤
Just charge a 3s lipo with the alternator. At 12.4 volts you are unlikely to overcharge a single cell, but it's still well topped off.
Amazing work as always, work on the engine and editing both!
You need to put one of these engines in a boat! 🚤
Looking good wish I could afford the V12 I like that one it sounds even better. Good catch on the o-rings
Restriction in the cooling system is not necessarily a bad thing. Coolant needs time to absorb heat. Why mechanics say to run a thermostat, even if it's gutted.
Wrong. Quite common misconception.
@ ok why?......it's not a misconception its thermodynamic law. Because there is a 100 percent chance that at some point the flow will be too fast for the water to have enough time in the radiator to shed enough heat or in block absorbing heat. Most engines it's never going to be a problem because of the design characteristics.
@@royb.1441 It's hard to explain for me in English, but I'll try. The coolant is just acts as a medium and is in constant motion. If you slow down this movement with lower flow rates you reduce the thermal flow, the efficiency of cooling. If given part of the coolant has more time to heat up the heat stays in engine and does not reach the radiator. More delta T -> better heat flow.
I all ways learn something from your videos.
Some really cool stuff! I enjoy watching your videos. Your projects are next level and also keep me waiting for the next video to drop!
You should add a BMS that lets you draw power from the battery, while there is nothing coming from the alternator, and when the motor is running, the BMS switches power sources to the alternator, leaving the battery isolated and charging
You may use super caps instead of battery for alternator. Give it a try. Btw I love your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video as always! Been subscribed for a while now. You’re truly innovative Mr Q90. Can’t wait for the next upload! 🤘🏻
Your videos inspire me , Sir!!!! Thank YOU!!!!
That is a very clear image from the thermal camera. What brand and model is it?
This blows my mind
You are like Honda, just perfect.
Nice I want to make a semi cab over truck using these engines so how much are they and can they be shipped over seas
Those dc to dc coverter don't have enough current to start the engine at low rpm. But good enough to recharge the battery, but when it up to idling speed, it should be able to sustain it even if you unplug the battery. Probably need batter DC regulator and higher power, you can try an actual car alternator regulator.
i cant hep to think that carb is restrictive...intake and exhaust ports as well, I wish they made a dual carb intake. did you lap the valves when you assembled it?
Sick build/skills!
Not long before 2 million subs!
Bro how much would it be for to buy that off you? When it’s done?
Love the V8 sound.. ❤❤❤
Sweet sound!
Remap the ECU, it will make ur engine start easier and make a good sound of your engine
This is amazing! I love your work. Do you keep the other engines you have worked on as well?
Getting it dialed in really well
😊 love the engine , especially the improvement’s to it!!!!
What thermal camera attachment are you using?
What App were you using to see the infrared on the engine? I need that.
I'm sure your new head gaskets will work great, but I have a question about annealing. I thought heating with a quick plunge to cool hardened the metal. I thought annealing was heating metal and giving it as long as possible to cool down?
What is the little welder called that you are using? Would be absolutely interested in having one?
That's what I want to know
What interesting content!! Keep it up!
The DC-DC wasn’t a bad idea! I bet the fan is 12V and it won’t like the higher voltages at higher RPM.
Ping me if you have some questions.
Most PC fans can handle a bit of extra voltage, and the output from the alternator shouldn't get nearly as high with a load connected
@@pocketpc_40V even without load is more than “just a bit of extra”.
Is it possible to run it with a lower idle? still high for a V8
Distilled water cools better, and doesn't create a mess when you have a leak.
You're one sharp dude!
Wonder how well aluminum kitchen wrap (kitchen foil) would do as a head gasket? Multi layer
Fascinating and inspirational
That thing sounds amazing for a replica V8. It looks alot like a SBC 350.
What thermal camera are you using?
Looks super cool
It's the INFIRAY T2S+
I really enjoy your videos!
Now you need a second carb and an SLM intake with trumpets
do you know how much torque it is producing? If it has more than 2.9nm it would be great!
It's 3.25 nm based on their claimed hp rating. I've got the same engine, in a 1/7th scale car that weighs 11.5 lbs, and without even having it fully tuned yet, it's just a donut machine at this point, so I'm inclined to believe the rating is somewhat accurate. It's vastly more powerful than my big block nitro or any 2/3s cars I've seen.
@@N301RCSTREETOUTLAWS well 3,25nm would make it drivable in my moped as it has 2.9nm stock
now make your own cam for it so it can be choppy
Seems fun to do maintenance on such a small V8
You need a battery since that alternator has a field generator instead of permanent magnets you need the battery to excite the coils to start charging.
Send cut send would have been perfect for those head gaskets.
Soooo badassssss 👍🏼
Superbe moteur V8 miniature, félicitations, trop beau, c'est presque de l'horlogerie ...
12 volt is nominal. 14.2 or three when charging can be pushed
That is true for a lead/acid battery. Looks like he is using LiPo batteries though
What is the compression ratio on a miniature engine like this?
Was hoping for a before and after compression test when you replaced the head gaskets.
Wow masterpiece!!!!!!
What thermal camera did you use?
Nice work.