I have an 03 wj 4.0 that currently has 117000 miles on it. Thank you for putting out content like this, it helps girls like me to be able to take care of their own maintenance and repairs and not get screwed over on repairs.
She's still a baby!!! 244k on my 03. I change the oil an filter at 3k, every time, like clockwork. I do run 10w-30 High Mileage. Do not listen to the bs about 10 or 15k rated oil... don't waste your money or chance it.
What Up, I'm a trained Jeep tech from the days and starting to get into HAVING these vehicles NOW to injoy. Just finished my granddaughters 4.0 installing new fuel pump due to lean conditions. Enjoyed your video and you so much I'll try to get on and help with some of these problems we all live with for the love of our Jeeps.
Thank you for the indepth breakdown. My lifter tick turned out to be a build-up of carbon. I was getting ready to take it apart for a rebuild when all it needed was a can of sea foam.
mine is somewhere between 425 and 500k. Clicks everyday, oil leaks like crazy, but I drive it 60 miles daily with nearly no issues. Don't know the exact milage because I'm on my 3rd speedometer lol
Thanks for the vid. I have a 95 cherikee country with a 4.0 that had 240000 + when i bought it. Shot Orings on oil pump meant previouse owner and i , who thought it was rear seal, just kept pouring oil into it like an 1930 harley davidson untill my shadetree traced the oil leak /-). Waterpump mounting dog ear in head caseing cracked , put new remanufactored head on it plus waterpump and this thing still has amazing compression and smog emission numbers. It never has made any of the noises you talk about, but the info you gave was good to learn thankyou. Since im shooting for the 500000 club im going to start adding zink , cats are much easier and cheaper than a rebuild i cant ever afford. Again , I and my jeep thank you for the vid. God bless you and yours.
I pulled an '89 XJ out of a barn that had all those sounds at 147,000 it ate it's self. Now a 5.0L stroker w/a boosted tech supercharger sits in place best money sent.
2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. 254,000 miles on it. Just started tapping. Like you said only in the morning. I run a repair shop and was thinking of tearing it down to change the cam and lifters. Now you have me wanting to run a bore scope down it. That will be done soon. I have been running bg products in it for about 60k of its life. Switching between moa and rf7. I am going to bores scope it first of the year. Thanks for the info
Beware the 2000 AMC 242ci I6 0331 cylinder head! The tiniest of over heating and it will crack between cylinder #3 and cylinder #4. This remained the situation on about half of the AMC 242ci I6 engines until March 2001. A revised cylinder head with the word, "TUPY," stamped between #3 and #4 cylinders will be the revised 0331 cylinder head. If the word, "TUPY," is not stamped between #3 and #4 cylinder valves you have about a 50% chance of having the infamous, "crack-o-matic," cylinder head. However, TJs are now considered a vintage Jeep with the original TJ now well over 25 years of age. The ones still running are likely already repaired, or the ones that are the 50% that did not have the thin, defective deck. But, if the cylinder head should ever fail, do not threat. A revised, "Clear Water," cylinder head is easily obtainable and very easy to change in your self.
I have been using engine restorer (has zinc) with every 3k oil change for the last 40k(+) on my 97 4.0 (ZJ) and it has almost completely eliminated piston slap that started back then.. Currently at 193k... good to go another 100+k.. To eliminate carbon build up (in addition to the Mopar cleaner)... a little water in the intake (while running) is an old trick to steam it out.. Just don't put too much or you can vapor lock... I did the water trick after the mopar treatment, and it absolutely worked great.. just make sure to change your oil right after. To clean out your cat, guys have run lacquer thinner / toluene to clean up clogged cats (Scott Kilmer). I bought this Jeep off the showroom floor, and has been garage kept , very well maintained / repaired it's entire life. I have been using semi synth oil over the past 20k or so.. only drive this rig 2-3k miles a year... so it is becoming a lifetime vehicle. Can't kill it, so cheap to own, and looks 5 years old inside and out.
I’m creeping up on 50 & can vouch for the water trick to remove carbon buildup. Definitely an old trick, usually used on carbureted engines though. Not exactly sure how to do that lil trick with EFI, but as long as you go easy on the amount of H2O used I’d think it’d be alright to do. From my understanding it works because of water turning into steam. Just my .02 on it. 👍🏼 If anyone can shed some light on how good it works going thru throttle body vs. carb I’d sure like to hear any opinions/ experiences
I used Chevron High Mileage fuel treatment. Used on 2 back to back tanks of gas and heard a huge improvement in noises. 2001 Jeep WJ 4.0 w/176,000 miles.
I now have a 4.7 stroker in my XJ with about 8000 miles. I don't have the noises on the new one yet, but the zinc issue came into play on the original engine. The camshaft was destroyed. Great video, keep them coming
I have a 2000 4.0L with 12 hole injecters and a viper mod, it ticks at first start up just for 5 seconds then all is quiet and smooth, I run rotella T6 5w- 40 for the colder climate im in. It has 195,000 miles on it. Good video
My 99 4.0 wj starting making a loud ticking noise at only 140k miles, I thought it was rod knock. When I removed the oil pan I discovered a large chunk of one of the piston skirts. From the research I have done piston skirts break a lot on the later 4.0s because of poor casting. I also noticed a lot of carbon buildup on top of all the pistons when I removed the head. I put in all new pistons and lifters because you might as well do it all while you have the head off.
Dude awesome video. At about 100k I switched my oil from conventional to synthetic (cause it was on sale). Boom, got a “rod knock” noise and panicked then put conventional back in it but it never went away…as of today that was like 90k miles ago. Doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold. Put slightly heavier oil in it and it’s a bit quieter. Don’t know what the hell it is tbh. Was told Piston slap by a mechanic years ago…also been told it’s a IED waiting to explode…years ago.
Non 4.0 guys will listen to your 4.0 and tell you that it will be dead within the day. Then 100k miles later they will try to tell you the same thing. haha.
They are about like an IED once they finally let go. Drove my xj with piston slap until that piston completely came apart, the rod slapped around in the blocked and cracked the shit out of it 😂
Thanks for all the information! I've been following for a couple years and your videos have gotten me out of some bad places with am 2 WJs. You win the internet today! Here is your trophy! 🏆
sounds like what mine does.. sound appears for me after cold start and in lower rpm and revving.. sound eventually diminishes after operating temperature reached, for the MOST part.. however sometimes its around regardless of engine temp.. i do injector cleaners every so often and in fact, i havent done one in a while.. i'll go ahead and do so.. thank you for this presentation and God bless
The lifter tap is also contributed to the bridges used to hold the rocker arm in place. Once they get wear, it puts more clearance in the valve train than the lifter can make up.
Hey Bud, excellent analogy! My 2000 grand had the same. My '01 Grand lifted all new underneath w/Core 4×4 adjustable arms. The flat tappet noise is a character of engineering. The cavernous engine bay with the cam just @ 10 o'clock from the crank right by the side of the block tends to make it noisy. My baby has 172,226 . I run Mobile 1 synthetic 10/30. Noise has decreased after 3 oil changes in 8,000 miles. I've wittled it down to cam/crank location with alot of room to hear anything. My little mule doesn't burn a drop of oil and keep Lucas fuel injection cleaner every 1,000 miles. It will shit&get on demand. I don't recommend heavier viscosity. When she's hot no noise🎉🎉 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I have a 1997 Wrangler I bought in September 1996. Right before 200,000 miles, the beloved AMC rattle became a part of my life. I felt terrible. I knew I only had 300,000 miles before the first rebuild. Right now, I have 446,000 miles. The AMC rattle has been my rhythm for 246,000 miles. Oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. 15w40 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in late spring and summer. 10w30 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in autumn. 5w30 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in winter and early spring. Filter is always a double sized oil filter that are used on large Ford pickup trucks.
@@qm8936 One of the best cleaners and lubricants on the planet is automatic transmission fluid. However, it can take the very hot temperatures of engine function by itself, for very long. To keep my engine clean, I substitute one quart of motor oil with one quart of Mercon /Dexron III or IV. The automatic transmission fluid also behaves closer to a type of hydraulic fluid. This helps the hydraulic lifter service life, slightly. I replaced the cylinder head gasket about eight years ago because of a oil leak that was leaving a mess in the engine compartment. The engine had just over 300,000 miles back then. The inside was almost like a new engine. I got the advise from a World War II veteran that was teaching me how to rebuild a Ford 300ci I6, when I was a, kid. He told me I would never keep my vehicles longer than if I used one quart of automatic transmission fluid in my oil changes. He told me to start at 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and not before. Now, I am the old man at 53 years of age. I have only had 7 vehicles my entire life, besides a few that were abandoned with me and I fixed and sold. Thank You Charlie Frazier of the 96 Dead Eye Division.
Yes more videos! As others have said I like 5w-40 Rotella T6. It has a little ZDDP for the cam and lifters. Also it’s high detergent which helps clean out our old junk engines. I believe up north they have a 0w-40 version. This would help with the cold weather startups. When ever possible I let the old XJ warm up a couple of minutes. Can’t hurt. Thick oil does not work as well as the thin. I’ve tried as thick as 20-50 and straight 40 no better only harder to start and noisier longer til warmed up. Oil changes are relatively cheap so 2-3000 is not bad. Current XJ at 265K and still going. Keep up the good work and thanks for the videos! (More junkyard too)
I add zinc. Sometimes (maybe once out of ten starts), it wil still knock/slap/tick/etc for a few seconds, 5 sec tops. Then it purrs like a cat. Mine is 2003.
This is the best show! I love your car talks ! The comedy skits, history documentary, and these mechanic philosophy segments.!. I don’t ever listen to blogs, vlogs, talks show, talk radio,.. but damn your talk’n is the best 👍🏽 quality thoughts
I would absolutely be into this style video once a week...that would be awesome! I'm a die hard 4.7 guy but don't mind learning about the 4.0; they're great engines, too! Thanks for the effort and time put into this video, as always. And you got me good on the "podcast mode" that was hilarious 🤣
haha. thanks bud. I think I may go back to doing more of the "info dump" style vids. I have some good 4.7 content in the hopper as well. My daily is still a 4.7
Great video - super interesting! My '98 XJ with a 4.0 certainly makes plenty of noises, and always has done. Listening to it at idle, you can hear a lot of noise from the front wheel wells that I believe to be piston slap. It's not audible in the Jeep with the windows up, and it's smooth as anything whilst driving. I've been driving it from 96,000 miles, and it's currently on 195,000. In that time I've had valve train noise exactly once, and that was when it had been sat for around 6 months. On first start up, the valves ticked for just a few seconds as it built up oil pressure. There are a couple of other noises worth mentioning: 1. When I first got it, I spent ages trying to figure out a knock that it would do at idle, which started about 5 minutes after starting the engine. The moment I touched the gas the knock doubled in speed, and I was convinced it was the start of rod knock. Turns out that it's the EVAP purge solenoid. If you put your finger on the solenoid, you can feel (and hear) it knocking away like a marble in a can. It's been happily doing that ever since I got the Jeep and now I don't think about it. 2. Exhaust manifold leak! My XJ is on (I think) its 4th exhaust manifold in the time I've had it, and when they crack they can make a ticking sound.
Very much into this type of vlog. It was the vlog on the history of Jeep that caught my attention and made me sub to this channel. As for the other type of non-Jeep shorts and vids, every once in awhile is fine especially if it can cross over to helping Jeep people out (like the vid of PVC pipe/drill holder - tools/shop organizing is helpful to a Jeep person), but I'll always think of D&E as a Jeep channel. So ya...in short, get back to the roots of the channel: Jeep topic vlogs. Cheers. P.S. - this topic needed to be covered, especially for those new to the 4.0 Well done. It was a gooder 🤙
BG 44k y'all. It works. I have used it and been super impressed with the results. Their MOA/EPR combo is also impressive for cleaning buildup inside of the engine. If you need to do a deep clean on the intake, you can use their PFI but you really need the right equipment for that stuff to work appropriately.
Just found your channel! I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee with 312,000 miles. I bought this with 80,000 miles, so I have put the 230,000 plus miles on this thing. Well maintained and loved. I love this post because it kinda addresses an off-the-wall issue I have with mine. I live in SC and really don't have any really cold mornings going to work. I have NEVER had any of the noises you are describing on on start up (even the occasional 20 or so degree nights). It's completely quite with the exception of the fan clutch for the first few minutes. Over the past six months I have had some "valve chatter" which is entirely INTERMINTTENT. One crank there's chatter, next crank and all's good. Oil level fine, etc. This only happens when the motor is at running temp. I have run the XADO engine treatment and it has actually improved the idle and acceleration, however for the first time I have the same "valve chatter" (it's definitely on the top of the motor) again. As usual, it has gone away after a few cranks and the motor is normal. NO OIL BURN between changes and no other issues. Is there anything that could cause this intermittent valve train noise? I'm thinking oil pump or related as it feels like the top end gets dry once in a while. Any input you could give me would be MUCH appreciated.
99 TJ repowered with a 97 Cherokee High Output 4.0, installed Dana 44's front and rear, switched to an electric fan, deleted kitty ( inspections not required and never will be in Florida) but still, don't say anything, and I just add zinc. I ONLY run non ethanol 90 (real gas) with an octane boost for firing. My buddy calls it The H.O.R.E. High Output Rubicon Equipped. Venezuela Edition.
Have had good results with Valvoline 5w-30 partial synthetic high mileage blend and a bottle of Rislone. It quieted down my 02 JGC w/ 167,000 mi ..No longer have any issues with cold starts
I have a 98,350k+,still runs strong for it's age. I run T5 Rotella 10-30 winter and I mix 10-30/15-40 summer. Flexalite radiator, triple electric fan,hi flow water pump. Other mods late model intake,plug wires,AC delete. She definitely likes to be warm before takeoff on a cold day.
Great vid. I've got three; 1999 4.0. 2001 4.0, 2004 4.7. I'm hoping to turn that 99 into a 4.6 stroker, IF I can find a decent 4.2 head. We will see...
Well we all love the 4.0 of course and those sounds are a symphony of internal combustion destruction like MegadetH says sort of. Mine has 142k on the ticker and I had the usually rap during startup so I wanted to see if I could get it to cease. I followed what a lot of Jeep WJ guys said as far as options to STP oil treatment and I used Rotella T6. Changed it with a Mopar filter and took it for a ride. Immediately I hear “noise” now. It wasn’t there before but it’s there now. It’s just a nice clicker clacking constant in a 6 cylinder chorus line. It’s a full on rapping now as I took it about 12 miles round trip and immediately changed it. The oil was black like it hadn’t been changed in forever and like water. I’m puzzled as Hell. I added some STP to the Pennzoil full synthetic that I normally use and although it’s still making noise I don’t what the problem was. Obviously the Rotella wasn’t the best choice. It’s just making a constant , albeit slight but constant tapping noise. I stood next to it and it sounds as though its bottom end but I haven’t had too much time to mess with it as it’s just my toy and not my daily
I'm at 204k with zero odd noises. I run 10w30 diesel oil (1400ppm of zinc). She just has the typical shakey idle. But i will be throwing in some 12 hole injectors which a lot of people say helps a lot so I'm hopeful
Dude, i put in the Bosch (MkIII, i think) 12 hole injectors a few years ago. Cooked the cats within a year, btw, you have 3 cats. Because you're dumping far more fuel than it can burn, all that unspent fuel just gets dumped into the cats. The computer just can't compensate without a tune. Good luck tuning it though. Anyway, i just hollowed the cats out and sent it. I would not recommend that upgrade if you have to pass inspection though. The difference in power, which is almost nothing, is not worth cooking your cats.
I have a 05 lj with 30k miles, did the usual oil change upon purchase. Discovered I had PCM/TCM (automatic trans) issues I addressed with wranglerfix. The added higher rpm range seemed to want to rattle a lot more after that but a change to lucas hot rod and classic zinc oil smoothed it out significantly at high rpm (diesel oil seems to be a cheaper more available alternative or a combo of zinc additives). Some kind of cleaner to keep on top of the build up seems good as well, even just high octane seemed to clear out some build up after I got it. A sever duty clutch for the fan also helped with the usual cooling issues (in AZ) and now the temp only fluctuates a degree or so in use mostly with the AC on at idle.
My 96 4.0 XJ (pre-lift) has as I presume lifter knock. On cold it is knocking, when oil gets warm it goes away. First I thought it was rod knock, so I've put thicker oil and that made knocking even worse. Even with hot oil it wouldn't go away. So I drained and put thiner oil (5w40) with additional bottle of zink additive, and it is almost completly gone.
@@DEInTheGarage I think that I have some issue with hydraulic lifter. If oil is thick it has problem geting inside and it is colapsed causing knock. When it gets hot it gets thinner and fills lifter.
Uncle Tony said he didn’t think zinc made a difference on the newer 4.0s but mine quieted a little when I started putting rotella t4 10w30 in it. I’m for certain mine has a cracked piston skirt. Sounds just like a knock till the engine gets some temp and sometimes all the way up to temp til it quits. Regular flat tappet noise when warm but some cold starts are noisy and others not so much. I’ve had it come and go till warm too. I’m third owner started life as a company commuter w/gps in rust belt then old couple drove it til wife wouldn’t cause death wobble. Never left town last four yrs till I got it and fully rebuilt the front suspension and was going to do the rear. They parked it at 128k and I’ve got 136k now 2.5” lift and 32s getting 18 hwy drive it 80 no wobble. I don’t have the time or money to do a rebuild but hoping to sell it cause it literally makes no noise when ambient temp is like 45F or higher some days vary. I would just hone and throw pistons in with current head cause everything is okay right now but don’t have time or resources.
Like another guy said mine fires right up and after 30 seconds sounds like a diesel for about a minute. The funny thing is that when I change the oil and add Restore or zinc additive it’s solved for about 500 miles then it comes back just the same. I suspect that means it’s the lifters but I have no idea, runs perfectly. It does it with 10w-30, 5w-40, and 15w-40.
I own 7 jeep 4.0 engines, I had one more in a jeep that I sold. Of all of these engines, I have never had any issues with any of these engines but one. It happens to be my 2005 Jeep LJ, and it is the newest one with the least amount of miles, around 120,000. My LJ will make the lifter tick noise sometimes but not all the time. I believe that it is an issue on the last years of the 4.0 only, but I could be wrong. I think Jeep changed some things for the worse after Chrysler was bought out around 2001 . I have a 1993, two 1997s, two 1998s, a 2000, and the 2005. most of these engines have over 250,000 miles on them and a couple have easily over 300,000. I think you could argue that they are the best engine ever made if it was not for fuel mileage.
Another possible cause of piston slap may be the fact that the 4 liter - unlike other American inline 6's, have a larger bore than stroke ratio. meaning: They are a relatively short-stroke engine compared to other straight 6 engines, and they use a shorter piston. While others do have the inherantly noisy architecture, they normally do not have piston slap to the degree that the 4 liter does. That said, my theory is that the sort stroke/wide bore/ short piston all contribute to the piston being slightly unstable in its course during the stroke. Inevitably, some pistons have cracked skirts or they break off and end up down in the pan. I have had an XJ for 8 years that was noisy, and now have a 95 ZJ with the exact same issue. It is audible only at slack idle and goes away under the slightest throttle. Compression is very good, and there is no rod knock. Bore scope shows no excess carbon on the pistons. Jus' sayin'
Great great great video! I think I've have every 4.0 sound available! Best to do regular maintenance and add zinc. If that don't fix it just pop a new 4.0 in when it blows up. 🤣
Name my start-up noise....Bought a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport new which currently has 71,400 miles on the odometer. I have always changed motor oil religiously along with all other maintenance. At around 50,000 miles on cold mornings (50 degrees and colder) at first start-up I get a brief 2-3 second rattle that quickly goes away and runs quietly after. During the warmer months my first start-up (even after sitting for days) is as quiet as a church mouse...no rattle whatsoever? Been told thru Jeep forums it is just lifter tick and don't worry about it. Also thru research I read that piston slap is not just a Jeep thing cause GM, Ford and other brands today complain about piston slap!
Mine starts cold with no noise and starts to go clack clack clack the more it warms up . About the first minute running it sounds nice and quiet . As it warms up the noise progressively gets louder . Then it sounds like a damned diesel . This I never hear about . Why me ?
If you have a sporadic lifter tick when first starting your engine, stab the fuel pedal down all the way quickly and back off a few times. The sudden spike in oil pressure will usually get it to quiet up almost right away. It's an oil supply issue, not an oil quality issue.
Ol'daddy would pour a little water down carb, t.b. spray bottle,qt. Tran sauce to tankful gas add fluid first to emulsify while filling. The t.f. cleans,lubricates whole fuel system&combustion chamber
my 170k '99 XJ had a horrible racket coming of it, pulled the oil pan thinking I would find bits and pieces of piston skirts and it turned out the 2 front most nuts for the girdle had come loose. Everything else looks fine. I'm in the middle of putting it back together, but I think that was the issue.
Bought my 4L manual tj new and drive daliy. Some rough off roading and if there is snow on the road I'll be drifting and making cookies. for 5 or 8 years it sounded like a diesel. Then it developed what I thought was a rod knock. Took the oil pan off and found 2 pices of piston skirt. Did an in frame rebuild and 1 piston looked just like the one in the video all the other ones were cracked but i found out the noise was coming from worn wrist pins.
I had a tap at idle but only when warmed up. Cold I had no noise. Turned out when I tore it down piston 6 was so worn out when at tdc that it could rock back and forth about 1/16-1/32 of an inch and was the source of my noise
Mine's making a noise that I'm certain is valve train, but it would be interesting if it was the piston smacking the head. An old trick is to run a small of water through carburetors at higher rpm to essentially "steam" clean the cylinders. My fix was to just build a new engine but I haven't put it in yet. I think I might try to decarbonize my current one, though I do mostly do highway driving.
have a 01 with a 99 motor with unknown miles. has a tap at idle and a very slow speed like in a parking lot, then seems to completely go away when actually driving. engine olds perfectly find oil pressure. been told piston slap, been told maybe a slight timing chain slap... ive never payed much mind to it since it doesnt do it while driving.
My 96' 4.0 sounds like a quiet diesel engine when ice cold, then 2 miles down the road it is dead quiet. The noise is only present at idle and goes away as soon as the rpms climb. When I am standing outside, it does not sound nearly as loud as inside the truck. I guess that is valve tick cause it sounds exactly as your valve tick impression. lol I am running rotella T6 5w-40 and motorkote.
Bout 3 glubs of seafoam in the crankcase then an oil change around 100 miles later. Have an 06 Wrangler with 90k on it. Try to only use premium fuel in it but I have ran a race gas additive in it before for 107 octane have also ran a small bit of aviation fuel in it. Heard that could keep the top end clean... didn’t seem to hurt it
I have a 01 xj but know the engine isn't original. It has had a tapping sound ever since I got it but lately it has gotten more noticeable. This rig doesn't see a ton of miles per year but worst part is they are all pretty much just very short drives. Furthest I go is maybe 5 miles to a friend's place. That can definitely be hard on a engine. When the sound got worse I thought it was main bearings but after getting the hood open (Yep, the dreaded hood release freezing up thing reared its ugly head) and listening, nope, not mains. It still holds good oil pressure even when warm but I'm not ruling out a lifter/valvetrain. Never considered piston slap. Meh, I'll pull the valve cover this weekend and check rockers etc and try to figure things out. If it's a simple fix (Relatively speaking) then cool, I'll throw lifters or whatever in it. If it turns out to be possible piston slap, run it until it doesn't run anymore then get a remaned engine. I've put too much into it to scrap it or sell it cheap. Definitely worth investing the money for a titan engine or something.
Mine has the same tapping sound. After 6 months of tinkering with it to no avail, I'm pretty sure it's got either a cracked or broken piston skirt. The engine was pulled from a violent wreck so even more reason for this to be the case.
I think ive learned my jeep runs remarkably well. Doesnt seem to make much of any noise, runs really well. Besides needing the solenoids and spring changed out in the transmission 🙄
Where is there a lobe at on the crank shaft? The main and rod journals are semantically round not lobed and the counter weights keeps it balanced to minimize bearing fatigue and the crankshaft dampener helps absorb the harmonics going through the crankshaft!
You can still get oil with zink in it,driven oil makes a oild thats got zink,polyphosphate and sulfer in it thats still a conventional oil or synthetic.
I have a 99 XJ with unknown mileage on it (PO replaced the ECM...comes up as a '98 so i have no clue how many ACTUAL miles are on it). Has pretty bad rod knock. Figured I'd replace the bearings in it but took a chance that they were OE diameter rod bearings. Wasn't until i was on breadcrumb #4 that i saw "0.010" stamped on it. The bearings that i was pulling out were badly worn and a couple of them were delaminating. So I figured, well maybe I'll get lucky and it'll quiet them down some even though the bearings I'm putting in aren't too much thicker than what i pulled out. Nope. Got another 4 liter to put in it. Gonna pull mine out, rebuild and stroke it. Oh yeah, I also put another engine in this Jeep that also had rod knock...as soon as i heard it, I pulled it out and put the other one back in. So by the time I'm done pulling my engine and putting the donor in, I'll have a spare short block and a long block sitting around. Just Empty Every Pocket.
My 01' XJ has 138k miles...starts up perfect...0 noise, but as it heats up it starts to sound like a diesel at idle. As soon as i give it any gas, whether in drive or not, the clatter goes away completely. The rattle doesn't appear to rise in noise with throttle input, but actually subsides. I changed out rod bearings, as they did show a little wear, but nothing crazy. I aslo changed out oil pump while at it with a melling. There was no metal in the oil pan. Good oil pressure...40 at hot idle, 50-55 psi at crusing speed. Any ideas?
@admorris11 did you ever find your issue? I have the identical issue. Using my stethoscope this noise seems to be coming from right in between the pre catalytic converters near the head. When I get a chance I need to look to see if possible loose bolts manifold bolts or a crack in exhaust manifold or cat.
Great video but I have a jeep question....I have an 01 WJ 4.0 with a misfire in cyl #4 I have changed the plugs, injectors, cam sensor and housing, Factory crank sensor, coil packs....It's driving me nuts....and I loaded the parts cannon twice second guessing myself.....I have never had a vehicle get the best of me until now....I noticed you hoodie says Bridge Marina that wouldn't be in Lake Hopatcong would it because I live 5 minutes from there....
One trick I do if my TJ starts up knocking is to turn it off. After a few seconds, I start it back up. The knock is gone 95% of the time. I have a 2005 4.0 with 266,000kms. I have a hard, loud and slow knock sound, at times. My thought is that it's from a sticky hydraulic lifter.
Thank you. I just love your video. My 97 TJ 4.0 blew a piston a month ago. And I’m havimg such a hard time to find a used engine in europe. So piston slap does come from carbon build up and not from a wornout piston or bore? My jeep quit after 225000km or 140000miles. And I babied the engine. It saw lots of highway and lomg distance use. And close to no city at all. It just hurts😔
Love the title, I watch a lot of your videos at work along with the history videos, really enjoy your information Just switched from full synthetic to 10w-30 conventional with zinc additive, will the zinc take a lot of life off my exhaust system?
Wish you had a sound sample of each of these. My 2000 Jeep that w 207k, has the noise now all the time . Every mechanic says it’s one of this and no two agree on which one ! Argh! Help !
I have a 2000 4.0 Jeep TJ. There are two noises. One is a tick from the top end. Always there, warm or cold. The other noise is driving me crazy. it almost sounds like pinging, but not really, and comes and goes. It is there under load, but then also some times when just cruising. However, it's not there while the oil is cold. Once the the oil starts to warm up, the noise comes on. Very frustrating. 175K miles.
Hi I have an 02 Grand Cherokee with 200,000 mile on the clock. I had what I thought was lifter tick but turned out to be piston slap, broke the skirt on number 3 piston. Finding parts can be a challenge this side of the pond but I did eventually find a low millage 2001 bottom end and used the Tupe head off my 2002 to create what I hope is the best of both motors. Still follow a warm up procedure each morning to allow the alloy pistons to expand to take up the clearances and reduce the noise. I would have used new pistons during the refresh but finding a machine shop able to heat the rods is a real challenge as most European cars use fully floating gudgeon pins (wrist pins) which makes it much easier to swap out the pistons. I'm looking to find a supplier in the USA willing to send me a set of pistons already mounted on the con rods - any suggestions?
1996 Jeep GC: 421,500 miles and counting....
Dead serious, HMU when you hit 500k. I'd love to hear about! dandeffroad@gmail.co
F*ck yeah! 🤘🥇
I have an 03 wj 4.0 that currently has 117000 miles on it. Thank you for putting out content like this, it helps girls like me to be able to take care of their own maintenance and repairs and not get screwed over on repairs.
She's still a baby!!! 244k on my 03. I change the oil an filter at 3k, every time, like clockwork. I do run 10w-30 High Mileage. Do not listen to the bs about 10 or 15k rated oil... don't waste your money or chance it.
I use Lucas Classic Car Oil, high zinc.
And change the oil every 3000 without fail.
Period.
Your jeep has plenty of life left, just as another said.. change the oil REGULARLY with high zinc oil.
I have 223k on my 03 cherokee 4.0. I change oil regularly. Runs strong
Did he say 25mpg highway ?
What Up, I'm a trained Jeep tech from the days and starting to get into HAVING these vehicles NOW to injoy. Just finished my granddaughters 4.0 installing new fuel pump due to lean conditions. Enjoyed your video and you so much I'll try to get on and help with some of these problems we all live with for the love of our Jeeps.
"Stop driving like a bitch!" is always good advice.
An Italian tuneup once a week usually does the trick.
Thank you for the indepth breakdown. My lifter tick turned out to be a build-up of carbon. I was getting ready to take it apart for a rebuild when all it needed was a can of sea foam.
My 89’ Cherokee has 370,000 miles on it and still going .
mine is somewhere between 425 and 500k. Clicks everyday, oil leaks like crazy, but I drive it 60 miles daily with nearly no issues. Don't know the exact milage because I'm on my 3rd speedometer lol
What kind of oil do you use good sir?? lol
@@davidduncil2355 I,ve always used 10w40 non synthetic .
Videos like this are why I started watching this channel. I daily a 99 XJ for my 20 mile commute to work. I love this content. Keep it up!!! Thanks
Thanks for the vid.
I have a 95 cherikee country with a 4.0 that had 240000 + when i bought it. Shot Orings on oil pump meant previouse owner and i , who thought it was rear seal, just kept pouring oil into it like an 1930 harley davidson untill my shadetree traced the oil leak /-). Waterpump mounting dog ear in head caseing cracked , put new remanufactored head on it plus waterpump and this thing still has amazing compression and smog emission numbers. It never has made any of the noises you talk about, but the info you gave was good to learn thankyou. Since im shooting for the 500000 club im going to start adding zink , cats are much easier and cheaper than a rebuild i cant ever afford. Again , I and my jeep thank you for the vid. God bless you and yours.
I pulled an '89 XJ out of a barn that had all those sounds at 147,000 it ate it's self. Now a 5.0L stroker w/a boosted tech supercharger sits in place best money sent.
How much they cost ya?
@@claytonpolly9139 10-12k in motor, another 12-13k in body, custom unimog axles,rollcage & suspension + other goodies.
2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. 254,000 miles on it. Just started tapping. Like you said only in the morning. I run a repair shop and was thinking of tearing it down to change the cam and lifters. Now you have me wanting to run a bore scope down it. That will be done soon. I have been running bg products in it for about 60k of its life. Switching between moa and rf7. I am going to bores scope it first of the year. Thanks for the info
Uncle Tony just did a tear down on a 4.0 with a broken piston skirt. I honestly didn’t realize how easily the aluminum pistons cracked.
UT is the man! I haven’t seen the tear down, but love his XJ stuff. The aluminum pistons fatigue over time as well… just to make it worse. Haha
Any thoughts on this noise? ruclips.net/user/shorts1hjkxwyU8Z0?si=Ac95Wb3lZL16OvWk
The pre 96' pistons are stronger
Would be curious to see some evidence of this, but I don't doubt it in the least. Cracked/broken skirts seem to be pretty damn common.
Beware the 2000 AMC 242ci I6 0331 cylinder head! The tiniest of over heating and it will crack between cylinder #3 and cylinder #4. This remained the situation on about half of the AMC 242ci I6 engines until March 2001. A revised cylinder head with the word, "TUPY," stamped between #3 and #4 cylinders will be the revised 0331 cylinder head. If the word, "TUPY," is not stamped between #3 and #4 cylinder valves you have about a 50% chance of having the infamous, "crack-o-matic," cylinder head. However, TJs are now considered a vintage Jeep with the original TJ now well over 25 years of age. The ones still running are likely already repaired, or the ones that are the 50% that did not have the thin, defective deck. But, if the cylinder head should ever fail, do not threat. A revised, "Clear Water," cylinder head is easily obtainable and very easy to change in your self.
New here and new to a old 4.0. I’m loving it. Thanks brother
I have been using engine restorer (has zinc) with every 3k oil change for the last 40k(+) on my 97 4.0 (ZJ) and it has almost completely eliminated piston slap that started back then.. Currently at 193k... good to go another 100+k.. To eliminate carbon build up (in addition to the Mopar cleaner)... a little water in the intake (while running) is an old trick to steam it out.. Just don't put too much or you can vapor lock... I did the water trick after the mopar treatment, and it absolutely worked great.. just make sure to change your oil right after. To clean out your cat, guys have run lacquer thinner / toluene to clean up clogged cats (Scott Kilmer). I bought this Jeep off the showroom floor, and has been garage kept , very well maintained / repaired it's entire life. I have been using semi synth oil over the past 20k or so.. only drive this rig 2-3k miles a year... so it is becoming a lifetime vehicle. Can't kill it, so cheap to own, and looks 5 years old inside and out.
I’m creeping up on 50 & can vouch for the water trick to remove carbon buildup. Definitely an old trick, usually used on carbureted engines though. Not exactly sure how to do that lil trick with EFI, but as long as you go easy on the amount of H2O used I’d think it’d be alright to do. From my understanding it works because of water turning into steam. Just my .02 on it. 👍🏼
If anyone can shed some light on how good it works going thru throttle body vs. carb I’d sure like to hear any opinions/ experiences
I used Chevron High Mileage fuel treatment. Used on 2 back to back tanks of gas and heard a huge improvement in noises. 2001 Jeep WJ 4.0 w/176,000 miles.
I now have a 4.7 stroker in my XJ with about 8000 miles. I don't have the noises on the new one yet, but the zinc issue came into play on the original engine. The camshaft was destroyed. Great video, keep them coming
I have a 2000 4.0L with 12 hole injecters and a viper mod, it ticks at first start up just for 5 seconds then all is quiet and smooth, I run rotella T6 5w- 40 for the colder climate im in. It has 195,000 miles on it. Good video
You, sir, got the memo! Sounds like a honey of a Jeep
Pfffft. Got a 01 Cherokee Limited with 276,000 miles and the fun sounds it makes is just part of the charm.
Tell ‘em bud. Preach
My 99 4.0 wj starting making a loud ticking noise at only 140k miles, I thought it was rod knock. When I removed the oil pan I discovered a large chunk of one of the piston skirts. From the research I have done piston skirts break a lot on the later 4.0s because of poor casting. I also noticed a lot of carbon buildup on top of all the pistons when I removed the head. I put in all new pistons and lifters because you might as well do it all while you have the head off.
Was it a pretty easy job?
@@CarveLifeno
@@CarveLifedepends on what youre capable of tbh and what tools you already have. It could be a nightmare for you or it could be a breeze.
Dude awesome video. At about 100k I switched my oil from conventional to synthetic (cause it was on sale). Boom, got a “rod knock” noise and panicked then put conventional back in it but it never went away…as of today that was like 90k miles ago. Doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold. Put slightly heavier oil in it and it’s a bit quieter. Don’t know what the hell it is tbh. Was told Piston slap by a mechanic years ago…also been told it’s a IED waiting to explode…years ago.
Non 4.0 guys will listen to your 4.0 and tell you that it will be dead within the day. Then 100k miles later they will try to tell you the same thing. haha.
mine has that sound and in 5000 miles my oii level is still full
They are about like an IED once they finally let go. Drove my xj with piston slap until that piston completely came apart, the rod slapped around in the blocked and cracked the shit out of it 😂
Thanks for all the information! I've been following for a couple years and your videos have gotten me out of some bad places with am 2 WJs.
You win the internet today! Here is your trophy! 🏆
hahahah.. thanks! Always nice to hear someone is enjoying these. I appreciate the support... and the trophy!
sounds like what mine does..
sound appears for me after cold start and in lower rpm and revving.. sound eventually diminishes after operating temperature reached, for the MOST part.. however sometimes its around regardless of engine temp..
i do injector cleaners every so often and in fact, i havent done one in a while.. i'll go ahead and do so..
thank you for this presentation and God bless
The lifter tap is also contributed to the bridges used to hold the rocker arm in place. Once they get wear, it puts more clearance in the valve train than the lifter can make up.
Hey Bud, excellent analogy! My 2000 grand had the same. My '01 Grand lifted all new underneath w/Core 4×4 adjustable arms. The flat tappet noise is a character of engineering. The cavernous engine bay with the cam just @ 10 o'clock from the crank right by the side of the block tends to make it noisy. My baby has 172,226 . I run Mobile 1 synthetic 10/30. Noise has decreased after 3 oil changes in 8,000 miles. I've wittled it down to cam/crank location with alot of room to hear anything. My little mule doesn't burn a drop of oil and keep Lucas fuel injection cleaner every 1,000 miles. It will shit&get on demand. I don't recommend heavier viscosity. When she's hot no noise🎉🎉
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I have a 1997 Wrangler I bought in September 1996. Right before 200,000 miles, the beloved AMC rattle became a part of my life. I felt terrible. I knew I only had 300,000 miles before the first rebuild. Right now, I have 446,000 miles. The AMC rattle has been my rhythm for 246,000 miles.
Oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles.
15w40 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in late spring and summer.
10w30 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in autumn.
5w30 + sub one quart Mercon/Dexron II ATF in winter and early spring.
Filter is always a double sized oil filter that are used on large Ford pickup trucks.
Do you by chance have a number for the filter, I have been running the m1204a, did enough oil changes to have it memorized.
What ford filter do you speak of?
Can you give us some insight on why you include the ATF in your oil changes?
@@qm8936 One of the best cleaners and lubricants on the planet is automatic transmission fluid. However, it can take the very hot temperatures of engine function by itself, for very long. To keep my engine clean, I substitute one quart of motor oil with one quart of Mercon /Dexron III or IV. The automatic transmission fluid also behaves closer to a type of hydraulic fluid. This helps the hydraulic lifter service life, slightly. I replaced the cylinder head gasket about eight years ago because of a oil leak that was leaving a mess in the engine compartment. The engine had just over 300,000 miles back then. The inside was almost like a new engine. I got the advise from a World War II veteran that was teaching me how to rebuild a Ford 300ci I6, when I was a, kid. He told me I would never keep my vehicles longer than if I used one quart of automatic transmission fluid in my oil changes. He told me to start at 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and not before. Now, I am the old man at 53 years of age. I have only had 7 vehicles my entire life, besides a few that were abandoned with me and I fixed and sold.
Thank You Charlie Frazier of the 96 Dead Eye Division.
@@qm8936cleans the carbon and has zinc
My 98 4.0 is almost a 180k miles thanks for the info. I gotta get ready for winter😅
Yes more videos!
As others have said I like 5w-40 Rotella T6. It has a little ZDDP for the cam and lifters. Also it’s high detergent which helps clean out our old junk engines. I believe up north they have a 0w-40 version. This would help with the cold weather startups. When ever possible I let the old XJ warm up a couple of minutes. Can’t hurt.
Thick oil does not work as well as the thin. I’ve tried as thick as 20-50 and straight 40 no better only harder to start and noisier longer til warmed up.
Oil changes are relatively cheap so 2-3000 is not bad. Current XJ at 265K and still going.
Keep up the good work and thanks for the videos! (More junkyard too)
I swore they lowered the ZDDP in the oils to be around 1000 or less but don’t quote me on it.
I add zinc. Sometimes (maybe once out of ten starts), it wil still knock/slap/tick/etc for a few seconds, 5 sec tops. Then it purrs like a cat. Mine is 2003.
Where do u get zinc ?
Thx😊
@@rickreese5794 some of the oils have added zinc for diesel motors.
d&e in the garage has a video about this. he suggests shell rotella
@@rickreese5794 Shell Rotella +Rislone ZDDP additive.
This is the best show!
I love your car talks !
The comedy skits, history documentary, and these mechanic philosophy segments.!.
I don’t ever listen to blogs, vlogs, talks show, talk radio,.. but damn your talk’n is the best 👍🏽 quality thoughts
Thanks bud! That is a heck of an endorsement!
I would absolutely be into this style video once a week...that would be awesome!
I'm a die hard 4.7 guy but don't mind learning about the 4.0; they're great engines, too! Thanks for the effort and time put into this video, as always.
And you got me good on the "podcast mode" that was hilarious 🤣
haha. thanks bud. I think I may go back to doing more of the "info dump" style vids. I have some good 4.7 content in the hopper as well. My daily is still a 4.7
That's great! 🙂
@@DEInTheGarage with 4.7 you mean a stroker or the later Mopar V8 in the WJ?
Great video - super interesting!
My '98 XJ with a 4.0 certainly makes plenty of noises, and always has done. Listening to it at idle, you can hear a lot of noise from the front wheel wells that I believe to be piston slap. It's not audible in the Jeep with the windows up, and it's smooth as anything whilst driving.
I've been driving it from 96,000 miles, and it's currently on 195,000. In that time I've had valve train noise exactly once, and that was when it had been sat for around 6 months. On first start up, the valves ticked for just a few seconds as it built up oil pressure.
There are a couple of other noises worth mentioning:
1. When I first got it, I spent ages trying to figure out a knock that it would do at idle, which started about 5 minutes after starting the engine. The moment I touched the gas the knock doubled in speed, and I was convinced it was the start of rod knock. Turns out that it's the EVAP purge solenoid. If you put your finger on the solenoid, you can feel (and hear) it knocking away like a marble in a can. It's been happily doing that ever since I got the Jeep and now I don't think about it.
2. Exhaust manifold leak! My XJ is on (I think) its 4th exhaust manifold in the time I've had it, and when they crack they can make a ticking sound.
Very much into this type of vlog. It was the vlog on the history of Jeep that caught my attention and made me sub to this channel.
As for the other type of non-Jeep shorts and vids, every once in awhile is fine especially if it can cross over to helping Jeep people out (like the vid of PVC pipe/drill holder - tools/shop organizing is helpful to a Jeep person), but I'll always think of D&E as a Jeep channel.
So ya...in short, get back to the roots of the channel: Jeep topic vlogs.
Cheers.
P.S. - this topic needed to be covered, especially for those new to the 4.0
Well done. It was a gooder 🤙
Thanks bud! Glad folks are still in to the 4.0 content. I enjoy making it and want to do more. Thanks again for the support!
@@DEInTheGarage Don't forget the 4.7 stuff. I'm a WJ addict too, just like you.
BG 44k y'all. It works. I have used it and been super impressed with the results. Their MOA/EPR combo is also impressive for cleaning buildup inside of the engine. If you need to do a deep clean on the intake, you can use their PFI but you really need the right equipment for that stuff to work appropriately.
44K makes all kinds of products. What are you talking about?
Just found your channel! I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee with 312,000 miles. I bought this with 80,000 miles, so I have put the 230,000 plus miles on this thing. Well maintained and loved. I love this post because it kinda addresses an off-the-wall issue I have with mine. I live in SC and really don't have any really cold mornings going to work. I have NEVER had any of the noises you are describing on on start up (even the occasional 20 or so degree nights). It's completely quite with the exception of the fan clutch for the first few minutes. Over the past six months I have had some "valve chatter" which is entirely INTERMINTTENT. One crank there's chatter, next crank and all's good. Oil level fine, etc. This only happens when the motor is at running temp. I have run the XADO engine treatment and it has actually improved the idle and acceleration, however for the first time I have the same "valve chatter" (it's definitely on the top of the motor) again. As usual, it has gone away after a few cranks and the motor is normal. NO OIL BURN between changes and no other issues. Is there anything that could cause this intermittent valve train noise? I'm thinking oil pump or related as it feels like the top end gets dry once in a while. Any input you could give me would be MUCH appreciated.
99 TJ repowered with a 97 Cherokee High Output 4.0, installed Dana 44's front and rear, switched to an electric fan, deleted kitty ( inspections not required and never will be in Florida) but still, don't say anything, and I just add zinc. I ONLY run non ethanol 90 (real gas) with an octane boost for firing. My buddy calls it The H.O.R.E. High Output Rubicon Equipped. Venezuela Edition.
🤘pure gas (when I can find it)
Have had good results with Valvoline 5w-30 partial synthetic high mileage blend and a bottle of Rislone.
It quieted down my 02 JGC w/ 167,000 mi ..No longer have any issues with cold starts
I have a 98,350k+,still runs strong for it's age. I run T5 Rotella 10-30 winter and I mix 10-30/15-40 summer. Flexalite radiator, triple electric fan,hi flow water pump. Other mods late model intake,plug wires,AC delete. She definitely likes to be warm before takeoff on a cold day.
Great vid. I've got three; 1999 4.0. 2001 4.0, 2004 4.7. I'm hoping to turn that 99 into a 4.6 stroker, IF I can find a decent 4.2 head. We will see...
I am on the same hunt, bud! Best of luck to you.
“When you said clearance. My cousin Clarence” then the video cut and you were back on topic, for whatever reason it laughed my entire ass off.
It seems after most a year of driving the 4.0 L has experienced improved performance with medium to hard acceleration all the time!
All this also applies to the 2.5 4 cylinder. Just a 4.0 with 2 fewer cylinders.
Another sound they get is the timing chain slapping.
Well we all love the 4.0 of course and those sounds are a symphony of internal combustion destruction like MegadetH says sort of. Mine has 142k on the ticker and I had the usually rap during startup so I wanted to see if I could get it to cease. I followed what a lot of Jeep WJ guys said as far as options to STP oil treatment and I used Rotella T6. Changed it with a Mopar filter and took it for a ride. Immediately I hear “noise” now. It wasn’t there before but it’s there now. It’s just a nice clicker clacking constant in a 6 cylinder chorus line. It’s a full on rapping now as I took it about 12 miles round trip and immediately changed it. The oil was black like it hadn’t been changed in forever and like water.
I’m puzzled as Hell. I added some STP to the Pennzoil full synthetic that I normally use and although it’s still making noise I don’t what the problem was. Obviously the Rotella wasn’t the best choice.
It’s just making a constant , albeit slight but constant tapping noise. I stood next to it and it sounds as though its bottom end but I haven’t had too much time to mess with it as it’s just my toy and not my daily
I'm at 204k with zero odd noises. I run 10w30 diesel oil (1400ppm of zinc). She just has the typical shakey idle. But i will be throwing in some 12 hole injectors which a lot of people say helps a lot so I'm hopeful
Yes bud! Sounds like you have a honey of a 4.0 and have been caring for her as she deserves! Good for you!
Dude, i put in the Bosch (MkIII, i think) 12 hole injectors a few years ago. Cooked the cats within a year, btw, you have 3 cats. Because you're dumping far more fuel than it can burn, all that unspent fuel just gets dumped into the cats. The computer just can't compensate without a tune. Good luck tuning it though. Anyway, i just hollowed the cats out and sent it. I would not recommend that upgrade if you have to pass inspection though. The difference in power, which is almost nothing, is not worth cooking your cats.
I have a 05 lj with 30k miles, did the usual oil change upon purchase. Discovered I had PCM/TCM (automatic trans) issues I addressed with wranglerfix. The added higher rpm range seemed to want to rattle a lot more after that but a change to lucas hot rod and classic zinc oil smoothed it out significantly at high rpm (diesel oil seems to be a cheaper more available alternative or a combo of zinc additives). Some kind of cleaner to keep on top of the build up seems good as well, even just high octane seemed to clear out some build up after I got it. A sever duty clutch for the fan also helped with the usual cooling issues (in AZ) and now the temp only fluctuates a degree or so in use mostly with the AC on at idle.
Great video and content ! Working on my 4.0 right now keep up the good work!
You too bud!
Turn up the radio... all the other noises go away. 😊
The XJ keeps rollin'. 99 with 262k miles.
My 96 4.0 XJ (pre-lift) has as I presume lifter knock. On cold it is knocking, when oil gets warm it goes away. First I thought it was rod knock, so I've put thicker oil and that made knocking even worse. Even with hot oil it wouldn't go away. So I drained and put thiner oil (5w40) with additional bottle of zink additive, and it is almost completly gone.
That is very interesting bud. Certainly suggests the Zinc did something positive
@@DEInTheGarage I think that I have some issue with hydraulic lifter. If oil is thick it has problem geting inside and it is colapsed causing knock. When it gets hot it gets thinner and fills lifter.
or the seals are leaking and it takes time to pump up and remove slack from the valve train. @@rudy75
First time I saw your program thank you much for the info appreciate it
Glad it was helpful!
“italian tune-up” fuckin killed me homie lol good one
Uncle Tony said he didn’t think zinc made a difference on the newer 4.0s but mine quieted a little when I started putting rotella t4 10w30 in it. I’m for certain mine has a cracked piston skirt. Sounds just like a knock till the engine gets some temp and sometimes all the way up to temp til it quits. Regular flat tappet noise when warm but some cold starts are noisy and others not so much. I’ve had it come and go till warm too. I’m third owner started life as a company commuter w/gps in rust belt then old couple drove it til wife wouldn’t cause death wobble. Never left town last four yrs till I got it and fully rebuilt the front suspension and was going to do the rear. They parked it at 128k and I’ve got 136k now 2.5” lift and 32s getting 18 hwy drive it 80 no wobble. I don’t have the time or money to do a rebuild but hoping to sell it cause it literally makes no noise when ambient temp is like 45F or higher some days vary. I would just hone and throw pistons in with current head cause everything is okay right now but don’t have time or resources.
I use diesel oil shell, T4 or Castrol 10/40 and add STP zinc additive
I saw an instagram real/advertisement that had you in it! love the videos Hollywood :D
Haha... no kidding?? Didnt think anyone saw those.
Like another guy said mine fires right up and after 30 seconds sounds like a diesel for about a minute. The funny thing is that when I change the oil and add Restore or zinc additive it’s solved for about 500 miles then it comes back just the same. I suspect that means it’s the lifters but I have no idea, runs perfectly. It does it with 10w-30, 5w-40, and 15w-40.
I own 7 jeep 4.0 engines, I had one more in a jeep that I sold. Of all of these engines, I have never had any issues with any of these engines but one. It happens to be my 2005 Jeep LJ, and it is the newest one with the least amount of miles, around 120,000. My LJ will make the lifter tick noise sometimes but not all the time. I believe that it is an issue on the last years of the 4.0 only, but I could be wrong. I think Jeep changed some things for the worse after Chrysler was bought out around 2001 . I have a 1993, two 1997s, two 1998s, a 2000, and the 2005. most of these engines have over 250,000 miles on them and a couple have easily over 300,000. I think you could argue that they are the best engine ever made if it was not for fuel mileage.
Another possible cause of piston slap may be the fact that the 4 liter - unlike other American inline 6's, have a larger bore than stroke ratio. meaning: They are a relatively short-stroke engine compared to other straight 6 engines, and they use a shorter piston. While others do have the inherantly noisy architecture, they normally do not have piston slap to the degree that the 4 liter does.
That said, my theory is that the sort stroke/wide bore/ short piston all contribute to the piston being slightly unstable in its course during the stroke. Inevitably, some pistons have cracked skirts or they break off and end up down in the pan.
I have had an XJ for 8 years that was noisy, and now have a 95 ZJ with the exact same issue. It is audible only at slack idle and goes away under the slightest throttle. Compression is very good, and there is no rod knock. Bore scope shows no excess carbon on the pistons.
Jus' sayin'
Great great great video! I think I've have every 4.0 sound available! Best to do regular maintenance and add zinc. If that don't fix it just pop a new 4.0 in when it blows up. 🤣
Finally another jeep video
Thanks for bearing with me bud 😂
Yo what’s up bro thanks for the vids keep ‘em coming
Mine has done almost 300,000kms and still purrs like a kitten :)
Name my start-up noise....Bought a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport new which currently has 71,400 miles on the odometer. I have always changed motor oil religiously along with all other maintenance. At around 50,000 miles on cold mornings (50 degrees and colder) at first start-up I get a brief 2-3 second rattle that quickly goes away and runs quietly after. During the warmer months my first start-up (even after sitting for days) is as quiet as a church mouse...no rattle whatsoever? Been told thru Jeep forums it is just lifter tick and don't worry about it. Also thru research I read that piston slap is not just a Jeep thing cause GM, Ford and other brands today complain about piston slap!
Mine starts cold with no noise and starts to go clack clack clack the more it warms up . About the first minute running it sounds nice and quiet . As it warms up the noise progressively gets louder . Then it sounds like a damned diesel . This I never hear about . Why me ?
Spray bottle of water lightly sprayed down the tbi unit at 1500 rpm
If you have a sporadic lifter tick when first starting your engine, stab the fuel pedal down all the way quickly and back off a few times. The sudden spike in oil pressure will usually get it to quiet up almost right away. It's an oil supply issue, not an oil quality issue.
Ol'daddy would pour a little water down carb, t.b. spray bottle,qt. Tran sauce to tankful gas add fluid first to emulsify while filling. The t.f. cleans,lubricates whole fuel system&combustion chamber
I have a 1992 with 108,000 and no noises.
I change the oil way too often and use high zinc oil.
I use a bigger oil filter, Motorcraft FL-1A.
my 170k '99 XJ had a horrible racket coming of it, pulled the oil pan thinking I would find bits and pieces of piston skirts and it turned out the 2 front most nuts for the girdle had come loose. Everything else looks fine. I'm in the middle of putting it back together, but I think that was the issue.
Bought my 4L manual tj new and drive daliy. Some rough off roading and if there is snow on the road I'll be drifting and making cookies. for 5 or 8 years it sounded like a diesel. Then it developed what I thought was a rod knock. Took the oil pan off and found 2 pices of piston skirt. Did an in frame rebuild and 1 piston looked just like the one in the video all the other ones were cracked but i found out the noise was coming from worn wrist pins.
I had a tap at idle but only when warmed up. Cold I had no noise. Turned out when I tore it down piston 6 was so worn out when at tdc that it could rock back and forth about 1/16-1/32 of an inch and was the source of my noise
Mine's making a noise that I'm certain is valve train, but it would be interesting if it was the piston smacking the head. An old trick is to run a small of water through carburetors at higher rpm to essentially "steam" clean the cylinders. My fix was to just build a new engine but I haven't put it in yet. I think I might try to decarbonize my current one, though I do mostly do highway driving.
I might have the Jeep but all I here is the rocker arms making noice
have a 01 with a 99 motor with unknown miles. has a tap at idle and a very slow speed like in a parking lot, then seems to completely go away when actually driving. engine olds perfectly find oil pressure. been told piston slap, been told maybe a slight timing chain slap... ive never payed much mind to it since it doesnt do it while driving.
I got a 93 jeep grand Cherokee zj 4.0 204000 still running quite 😊
My 96' 4.0 sounds like a quiet diesel engine when ice cold, then 2 miles down the road it is dead quiet. The noise is only present at idle and goes away as soon as the rpms climb. When I am standing outside, it does not sound nearly as loud as inside the truck. I guess that is valve tick cause it sounds exactly as your valve tick impression. lol I am running rotella T6 5w-40 and motorkote.
This also applies to the 2.5, 155,000 and piston slap for first 5min
Good video ! God Bless !!!
Thanks, you too!
97 grand Cherokee 208K on the clock . It ticks a little . And if there is no oil under under it there is no oil in it . But it runs like a top.
Always ran 15w40 Rotella down here in Phoenix
Bout 3 glubs of seafoam in the crankcase then an oil change around 100 miles later. Have an 06 Wrangler with 90k on it. Try to only use premium fuel in it but I have ran a race gas additive in it before for 107 octane have also ran a small bit of aviation fuel in it. Heard that could keep the top end clean... didn’t seem to hurt it
CATACLEAN seems to improve my performance. Also CFC intake cleaner treatment.
1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 260K miles
I have a 01 xj but know the engine isn't original. It has had a tapping sound ever since I got it but lately it has gotten more noticeable. This rig doesn't see a ton of miles per year but worst part is they are all pretty much just very short drives. Furthest I go is maybe 5 miles to a friend's place. That can definitely be hard on a engine. When the sound got worse I thought it was main bearings but after getting the hood open (Yep, the dreaded hood release freezing up thing reared its ugly head) and listening, nope, not mains. It still holds good oil pressure even when warm but I'm not ruling out a lifter/valvetrain. Never considered piston slap. Meh, I'll pull the valve cover this weekend and check rockers etc and try to figure things out. If it's a simple fix (Relatively speaking) then cool, I'll throw lifters or whatever in it. If it turns out to be possible piston slap, run it until it doesn't run anymore then get a remaned engine. I've put too much into it to scrap it or sell it cheap. Definitely worth investing the money for a titan engine or something.
Mine has the same tapping sound. After 6 months of tinkering with it to no avail, I'm pretty sure it's got either a cracked or broken piston skirt. The engine was pulled from a violent wreck so even more reason for this to be the case.
I got a 01 WJ from my neighbor Cheap, at any outside temp it knocks at startup then quits down when it warms up it has 334,000 miles on it.
I think ive learned my jeep runs remarkably well. Doesnt seem to make much of any noise, runs really well. Besides needing the solenoids and spring changed out in the transmission 🙄
nice ..... i just put new rear seal and rod bearings on an 1989,, will soon find out if i fixed or have broken the thing
Where is there a lobe at on the crank shaft? The main and rod journals are semantically round not lobed and the counter weights keeps it balanced to minimize bearing fatigue and the crankshaft dampener helps absorb the harmonics going through the crankshaft!
You can still get oil with zink in it,driven oil makes a oild thats got zink,polyphosphate and sulfer in it thats still a conventional oil or synthetic.
I have a 99 XJ with unknown mileage on it (PO replaced the ECM...comes up as a '98 so i have no clue how many ACTUAL miles are on it). Has pretty bad rod knock. Figured I'd replace the bearings in it but took a chance that they were OE diameter rod bearings. Wasn't until i was on breadcrumb #4 that i saw "0.010" stamped on it. The bearings that i was pulling out were badly worn and a couple of them were delaminating. So I figured, well maybe I'll get lucky and it'll quiet them down some even though the bearings I'm putting in aren't too much thicker than what i pulled out.
Nope.
Got another 4 liter to put in it. Gonna pull mine out, rebuild and stroke it.
Oh yeah, I also put another engine in this Jeep that also had rod knock...as soon as i heard it, I pulled it out and put the other one back in.
So by the time I'm done pulling my engine and putting the donor in, I'll have a spare short block and a long block sitting around.
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket.
My 01' XJ has 138k miles...starts up perfect...0 noise, but as it heats up it starts to sound like a diesel at idle. As soon as i give it any gas, whether in drive or not, the clatter goes away completely. The rattle doesn't appear to rise in noise with throttle input, but actually subsides. I changed out rod bearings, as they did show a little wear, but nothing crazy. I aslo changed out oil pump while at it with a melling. There was no metal in the oil pan. Good oil pressure...40 at hot idle, 50-55 psi at crusing speed. Any ideas?
@admorris11 did you ever find your issue? I have the identical issue. Using my stethoscope this noise seems to be coming from right in between the pre catalytic converters near the head. When I get a chance I need to look to see if possible loose bolts manifold bolts or a crack in exhaust manifold or cat.
Thank you 😎👍
No problem 👍
Great video but I have a jeep question....I have an 01 WJ 4.0 with a misfire in cyl #4 I have changed the plugs, injectors, cam sensor and housing, Factory crank sensor, coil packs....It's driving me nuts....and I loaded the parts cannon twice second guessing myself.....I have never had a vehicle get the best of me until now....I noticed you hoodie says Bridge Marina that wouldn't be in Lake Hopatcong would it because I live 5 minutes from there....
One trick I do if my TJ starts up knocking is to turn it off. After a few seconds, I start it back up. The knock is gone 95% of the time.
I have a 2005 4.0 with 266,000kms. I have a hard, loud and slow knock sound, at times. My thought is that it's from a sticky hydraulic lifter.
Thank you.
I just love your video.
My 97 TJ 4.0 blew a piston a month ago.
And I’m havimg such a hard time to find a used engine in europe.
So piston slap does come from carbon build up and not from a wornout piston or bore?
My jeep quit after 225000km or 140000miles.
And I babied the engine.
It saw lots of highway and lomg distance use. And close to no city at all.
It just hurts😔
My 2004 has 200k can’t hear it running best motor ever.
Love the title, I watch a lot of your videos at work along with the history videos, really enjoy your information
Just switched from full synthetic to 10w-30 conventional with zinc additive, will the zinc take a lot of life off my exhaust system?
How well do engine block heaters work for my Jeep 4L
Wish you had a sound sample of each of these. My 2000 Jeep that w 207k, has the noise now all the time . Every mechanic says it’s one of this and no two agree on which one ! Argh! Help !
Good thing I don't run cat's 😂
I have a 99 with 266,000 on her. My "ticking" is at start up. I mostly hear it when I'm under power, and it seems to go away when I'm up to speed.
I have a 2000 4.0 Jeep TJ. There are two noises. One is a tick from the top end. Always there, warm or cold. The other noise is driving me crazy. it almost sounds like pinging, but not really, and comes and goes. It is there under load, but then also some times when just cruising. However, it's not there while the oil is cold. Once the the oil starts to warm up, the noise comes on. Very frustrating. 175K miles.
Hi I have an 02 Grand Cherokee with 200,000 mile on the clock. I had what I thought was lifter tick but turned out to be piston slap, broke the skirt on number 3 piston. Finding parts can be a challenge this side of the pond but I did eventually find a low millage 2001 bottom end and used the Tupe head off my 2002 to create what I hope is the best of both motors. Still follow a warm up procedure each morning to allow the alloy pistons to expand to take up the clearances and reduce the noise. I would have used new pistons during the refresh but finding a machine shop able to heat the rods is a real challenge as most European cars use fully floating gudgeon pins (wrist pins) which makes it much easier to swap out the pistons. I'm looking to find a supplier in the USA willing to send me a set of pistons already mounted on the con rods - any suggestions?
My 2004 Grand Cherokee 4.0l ticks all the time hot or cold. Done it for years. Guess ill try to decarbon it.