Yeah I would agree with Thierry, mudguards are essential. I dont understand why so many cyclists dont use them. I can understand on a road bike considering the weight issue but I used to have the little short mudguards made from aluminium on my road bikes and they weigh almost nothing and they only need to be secured by a single lug so they can be fitted or removed in a jiffy. Better than having a line of shit that does look like you have shit yourself all up your back, that is just misery in the wet.
I have a Fuji Touring travelled 12,000 kms without a problem This bike has all the features you mentioned except for the quill stem Enjoyed you video:)
These "simple cantilevers" are Avid Shorty Ultimate and are among the highest quality cantilevers you can get today! Great choice! Great video too, I really enjoy the "British" looks of this bike, I personally can't do drop bars but you Brits have a thing or two when it comes to bike styling and these drop bars with classic shifters look amazing!
Good down to earth advice, especially regarding wheels. Aluminium frames have a tendency to flex after years of touring with a full kit, and forget trying to get one fixed in an undeveloped country. ;-)
Hello Dave, Thanks for the talk through of the fundamentals of a Touring Bike. But I don't understand how a longer Top Tube would give a rider a more upright position. Surely a longer top tube would mean your handlebars are further away from the saddle and therefore the rider would have a less upright position? Sincerely, Liam.
debate between steel and aluminum will never end but here two things, if you ride near coastal line(beach etc) u might prefer aluminum since its gonna less corrode, while steel is good for most of the touring bike because if something happens (chainstay break for example) you can weld it in almost every workshop available
When I was into my touring bikes there were a few things that I required. Campag record hubs. B17. 40 spoked laced x4 doubled walled rear rim. Jim blackburn 4 point carrier and front low riders. Reynolds 531 frame and I'm showing my age 😆😆😆😆👍
Dave, great informational video! I'm going to purchase a Trek 520 for bike touring. I'm currently using a Specialized Cross Trail, but it is not built for touring. Thanks again for making the video! Good riding, mate!
@Anton Chigurh how do you like your Trek 520? Do you recommend this bike for long touring? Is it comfortable? Thanks and happy trails to you, friend! Frado
Yep I choose not to have mudguards on my touring bikes for various reasons I've gone into before. You're quite right that a 90s MTB make good touring bikes - More what i would class an 'expedition' touring bike. The only slight problem occasionally, can be the relatively short chain-stays
As you say you omitted a third water bottle cos it gets covered in dirt and road grime, mudguards are a must for me I usually rivet an extended mudflap onto them, after most rides my bike is almost as clean as when I set out.
Lol at this "you've not ridden enough" comment, Dave (the bloke in the video) has only ridden from Alaska to the the tip of South America, and Cairo to cape town, so yea he needs to ride a lot more. How far you ridden then, oh knowledgeable one?
@1:46 handlebars, interesting as I look back at my touring on an upright bike and I would change hand positions every 15 minutes because that was what I was taught for touring and yes you have about 5 positions to choose from. Now I ride a recumbent which has far better aerodynamics and I can ride for 3 hours with the same position as I no longer hold any body weight on the bars. Wish I had bought my recumbent far sooner. The truth of the matter about buying a touring bike is ,you can tour on any bike period. The only enhancements would be lower gearing and a decent saddle.
Hi Dave - cheers for this video. I'm planning on cycling across Europe next summer & so will require an appropriate bike for the job. I understand that bike prices can be astronomic: any recommendations for good touring bikes priced at about £500? Thanks!
You can definitely spend a small fortune if you want on a bike haha! For the 500 pound mark, I would recommend looking for a second hand Dawes touring bike. If you look on the Evans site, they might even have a new basic model (Galaxy) for around the mark for new. All the best for your bike tour across Europe next year!
Hello, mate! Like your bike a lot! Thinking of buying similar old style tourer which I plan to use as my road bike when it's not loaded. The bike seemed fine when I testrode it, but the tektro oryx brakes (cantis) were strange and unconvincing. Don't know if the bike is still worth buying or should I look for something more modern. I can see you have great avid cantis. How do you feel about them? Would you recomend the upgrade with the better cantis than oryx? Some say that there is no big of a difference. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi! The brakes on this one are great - most importantly, they stop well with a full load going downhill! I think overall its really difficult to compare different cantis as there could be other factors (rim age, how the brakes are set up, bike load).
@@DaveBriggs Thank you Dave! Still I don't know what to do. :) Lot of people are saying "no" to cantis, but there are lots of them saying they are as good as other rim sistems. I gues I have to risk, hoping that the brakes will brake in and eventually do just fine... Thank you for your replay!
Tire size?? 26ers for strength and widespread availability?? Also tire width?? I think min 32mm?? Maybe thicker for comfort, but not so thick they become a drag on speed or effort to pedal. One other- won't front paniers or front rack help distribute weight more evenly?? Otherwise everything's on the rear wheel and tire?? Thanks for the vid!!
Hi! I think for bike touring, there are two different styles of touring. One which uses the classic touring bike (700), and expedition/multi-year tours of which I am a strong advocate for 26inch wheel. I've done plenty of videos in the past on 26 inch wheels/bikes, so thought I would go over the classic 700 touring bike set up. At the end of the day, this is the most popular sizing for bike touring after all! Not sure if I mentioned in this or a previous video, that the reasons front panniers weren't fitted to this bike, was that I was aiming for a lightweight setup in terms of what I was carrying. For the bike tour around the Peloponnese, everything I needed fitted on the back rack and wasn't overweight at all - www.davestravelpages.com/bike-touring-gear-list-for-the-hercules-bike-tour-of-peloponnese/ Glad you enjoyed the vid!
Dave enjoyed the video particularly as I own a Roberts Tourer made for me. Not that I feel that its necessary as an off the peg Tourer can be adapted quite easily to fit you. Interesting to hear your views on the Brookes saddles because funnily enough I have two B17 Narrow fitted to two of my bikes and I struggle to get comfortable on them both. I am just hoping that if I persevere long enough they will mould to my body shape. Like your bike mine was fitted with XT components but my front chain set is a 44t triple and I am intrigued at the size of your biggest chain ring as I didn't realise you could get a larger one to fit the crank set.Now going to look at some more of your videos, thanks again.
Hi Ted, Glad you enjoyed the video! I think the Brooks saddle experience is a very personal one - maybe they should use that catchphrase! I hope they mould for your soon, as it really does make a tremendous difference on long rides when touring. I'm still going to do a review of the Skyelander as shown in this video. The transmission details are: "Deore XT triple 26-36-48 chainset combined with the Deore 11-34 cassette provide a great gearing range for all terrain, and all hills with loaded panniers." Hope you enjoy the rest of the videos! Dave
Very like my Jamis Aurora. The only things I've had problems with were aluminium. The rear rack broke at a weld, the rear mudguard broke in two and a cheap Sidestand I added, fell to bits. Glad I didn't buy the fully aluminium touring bike from Evans.
The first thing to remember is that the purchase of the bike should be governed by the most extreme type of touring that the rider's needs encompass. Secondly, the bike must be able to accept fenders, tires and racks that are compatible with each other. Unless the anticipated touring does NOT involve rain, fenders are a must. And, of course, the bike must be designed so that your body can function naturally. Consequently, the saddle, handlebar, brake levers, shifters and pedals must be easily reached. In touring, the wheels are the most important component. To get the strongest wheels, the dropouts should be spaced at 135 mm. The tires should be at least 32 mm but 35-42 mm is usually much better because the wider the tire, the lower the tire pressure that's required so less shock is transmitted to the bike. This is good for two reasons. First, obviously, less road shock will be transmitted to the rider. Touring is more fun when the rider is comfortable. Second, recent testing at VeloNews has shown that a high quality supple tire is also going to provide less rolling resistance. Additionally, with lower tire pressures (but not too low), more of the tire contacts the pavement leading to more traction, less tire wear and very possibly more puncture resistance. I concur with the video with regard to the brakes. Unless the bike is going to see substantial offroad miles involving mud, cantilevers are the way to go. They are cheaper and easier to maintain. There's less interference with rack stays too. Disc brakes, especially hydraulic brakes are much more difficult to repair and if the tour is going through less developed countries, spare parts are going to be difficult to obtain. Keep the bike as simple as possible. Durability is more important than a snazzy looking bike. Cycling purists tend to favor leather saddles. I'm not one of them. I prefer the gel-based saddles. There's no break-in and if the saddle is properly adjusted so that it's right where you need to sit, it will be a real friend. They are also much cheaper. If I were forced to use one the leather saddles, I'd dump it in some motor oil for a few minutes just like Lon Haldeman used to do when he was riding RAAM. Look for a saddle that's wide enough to is support your natural sit-bone position.. The purchase of a touring bicycle is probably the most complex and difficult type of bike to purchase.
I will add one other item that I think is really important and that is gearing. You need far less top end gearing and a lot more bottom end slow up horrible hills gearing. You can always switch cassettes when you get home again to go back to normal gears for the city. It is so nice to have a gear between on some climbs when you want one instead of wishing for one.
I agree with most of your statements. For a touring bike I also would strongly recommend: Mudguards with mudflaps (It is amazing how many dirt and rain/wetness they'll keep away from the rider and the bike) Personal, I don't like drop down handlebars - very unhealthy esp. in the lower positon. What is with a hub gear - much more reliable or a hub dynamo with automatic functions and light is always there?
Hi - Yep I've left fenders out as I think they are an accessory that is up to the individual rider. In my opinion, they are not a key element to a touring bike. My personal preference is to tour without them, due to several instances of mud clogging between the fenders and tyres in Alaska which prevented the wheel from actually going around! I think the fenders are probably still in an Alaska campsite somewhere :D
Depends on the conditions you will experience. A bit of mud betwixt the fender and the tire can be a drag , otoh spray from the wheels on a rainy cold day is something better minimized than endured.
Exactly. I think the key takeaway is to ensure that a new touring bike is able to take fenders (which most of them are), and then make your own decision as to whether to tour with them or not.
WOW! You are so wrong on this. You get fenders that can be easily removed when necessary. I think that is the difference in riders that ride and riders that sometimes ride.
Lots of good info. Even a cheap saddle can be comfortable! Just try out quite a few. A little difficult as you don't really know until you have bought one and ridden a few hundred miles on it meaning you cannot really return it for a refund. Also you could possibly mention choice of pedals and gearing? And disc brake bikes are better all round ;@) better braking in dry or wet, and no worn out rims to replace meaning a new wheel build as well. What has happened to your Rohloff bike? Surely you would prefer to be riding it? I would like to see a few more videos of you touring on it.
I still have the Thorn Nomad (Rohloff). I don't think I've ever made a video on it. At the moment, it's in storage, but I'm due to take it out November, and give it a good clean and service!
I think e-assist has real potential for bike touring, whether recumbent bikes or traditional. It's always going to be limited by the places you can recharge of course.
I personally find recumbents more dangerous because they sit so low they are often not seen by others. But if that's your thing they can take mid-drive add-on motors like most other bikes.
In Europe drop bar aren't popular in touring bikes. Long stem quill is comfortable on long trips but looks not so good. 26 inch wheels are better in remote parts of world even in far east Russia you will have problem with buying 28 inch tires or rims. IMHO.
Adrian Caban In my opinion they are more reliable and easier to maintain than integrated shifters. That opinion is shared by touring bike manufacturers such as Stanforth (shown here) and Surly to name just 2 bike touring manufacturers.
I love cycling, but I'm not built for it... I'm 6'4", 250, long legged, arms to my knees... Totally wrong it seems for long rides... I have a custom built Davidson, and still have forearm, neck, upper back issues... Looking into recumbents, but like them less every time I watch a youtube video and see them unable to track a smooth line, especially uphills... Trikes are too wide, taking up too much of any bike lane... Though they look comfortable as hell... Etc. Etc... Decisions, decisions.. I'm just going to go back to my bike and try to re-engineer the geometry some more... Sigh... Any advice would be appreciated. And good video... Nothing like someone who has thousands of miles under their feet to explain why one thing is better than another...
I think given your build, trying to get a custom fit on a bike is all but essential. I know of one big fella who rode a Thorn Nomad bike, and made the thing look tiny, but he said it was comfortable - however he went into the store, and they set it up just for him. Perhaps a more upright style is going to take away the back and neck issues. Butterfly handlebars might also be an idea, as they will give your hands different positions which could take away the stress from your shoulders and upper back. Good luck, and I hope you find a ride that gives you many thousands of miles of comfortable, happy cycling!
Ralph," Looking into recumbents, but like them less every time I watch a youtube video and see them unable to track a smooth line, especially uphills... " Just remember it is the rider not the bike or bent that is weaving on the uphills. I ride pain free so will not ride a diamond frame again.
Yea... I fully agree... My custom upright was never comfortable and I've lost half a decade of healthy exercise because it sits in the garage... I'm testing out a Cruz bike here next month... Pretty sure that's the one I'm getting... Thanks for the reply, and ride on brother...
My recumbent touring bike has 27 gears ranging from 15" to 104" and I can use all 27 gears as the chain does not have the stretch worries that your normal bike does. I will never go back to a normal bike because I enjoy comfort too much and isn't that what you need on a tour?
I hope this helps you make your choice! The bike shown here is the Stanforth Skyelander and is pretty ideal for European touring on mainly sealed roads. If you want something that will be equally good on rough roads, their Kibo+ expedition bike is a great choice. I rode that Kibo+ from Greece to England, and reviewed it over on this video - ruclips.net/video/r1lvNJ62lXY/видео.html Whatever bike you choose, and whatever route you take, have a great time, and here's wishing you Happy Tailwinds into the New Year!
Also I think the front tire is mounted in the wrong rolling direction. If you look close you can see the back tires treads are facing one way and the front tire tread is facing the other way. Love the steel frame.
Yeah I would agree with Thierry, mudguards are essential. I dont understand why so many cyclists dont use them. I can understand on a road bike considering the weight issue but I used to have the little short mudguards made from aluminium on my road bikes and they weigh almost nothing and they only need to be secured by a single lug so they can be fitted or removed in a jiffy. Better than having a line of shit that does look like you have shit yourself all up your back, that is just misery in the wet.
I have a Fuji Touring travelled 12,000 kms without a problem
This bike has all the features you mentioned except for the quill stem
Enjoyed you video:)
So you have an ass-buster too.
These "simple cantilevers" are Avid Shorty Ultimate and are among the highest quality cantilevers you can get today! Great choice! Great video too, I really enjoy the "British" looks of this bike, I personally can't do drop bars but you Brits have a thing or two when it comes to bike styling and these drop bars with classic shifters look amazing!
Thank you for the information. I'm planning to buy my first bike as I wanted to do bike touring. Very informative
Good job, I only ride steel, the long wheelbase on a true tourer makes for a stable ride when loaded.
Surprisingly informative video. Really well explained.
Good down to earth advice, especially regarding wheels. Aluminium frames have a tendency to flex after years of touring with a full kit, and forget trying to get one fixed in an undeveloped country.
;-)
That's pretty much my take on aluminium frames as well!
I don't disagree, but Koga sells some pretty expensive aluminum touring bikes. I'm not sure why.
Because people buy them. Then they make a youtube video touting how good they are and others mistakenly go buy one. It's a vicious circle. :)
Hello Dave,
Thanks for the talk through of the fundamentals of a Touring Bike. But I don't understand how a longer Top Tube would give a rider a more upright position. Surely a longer top tube would mean your handlebars are further away from the saddle and therefore the rider would have a less upright position?
Sincerely,
Liam.
Always great to hear that friendly Australian accent ! Thanks for the vide-o!
That's an English accent 😂
Yes. He's from Northampton.
debate between steel and aluminum will never end but here two things, if you ride near coastal line(beach etc) u might prefer aluminum since its gonna less corrode, while steel is good for most of the touring bike because if something happens (chainstay break for example) you can weld it in almost every workshop available
Titanium?
When I was into my touring bikes there were a few things that I required.
Campag record hubs.
B17.
40 spoked laced x4 doubled walled rear rim.
Jim blackburn 4 point carrier and front low riders.
Reynolds 531 frame and I'm showing my age 😆😆😆😆👍
531 ! Time flies . Those were the days…….😂
Thanks for the info Dave especially what to look for re geometry.
Cheers John :)
I got the Brooks all weather carved one and I like it. I even bought another for my other bike.
I would have liked to hear about gear ratio and number of teeth in the back cassette to tackle those inclines.
Lovely bike. However I think it could do with some decent mudguards. Thanks for the overview.
Dave, great informational video! I'm going to purchase a Trek 520 for bike touring. I'm currently using a Specialized Cross Trail, but it is not built for touring. Thanks again for making the video! Good riding, mate!
My pleasure - Hope you have plenty of enjoyable bike tours in the future on your new setup. Happy tailwinds!
@Anton Chigurh how do you like your Trek 520? Do you recommend this bike for long touring? Is it comfortable?
Thanks and happy trails to you, friend!
Frado
@Anton Chigurh good for you, Anton. I hope your Trek brings you places to enjoy!
Keep me posted, ok?
Frado
what no mudguards?repurposed mtb for touring is a fantastic option,like my old 90s raleigh,best bike i have ever ridden
Yep I choose not to have mudguards on my touring bikes for various reasons I've gone into before.
You're quite right that a 90s MTB make good touring bikes - More what i would class an 'expedition' touring bike.
The only slight problem occasionally, can be the relatively short chain-stays
Well, that shows that you haven't ridden enough then.
Not using fenders and mudguards on a touring bike is crazy, they can be problematic at times, but over-all a must. When you ride year round.
As you say you omitted a third water bottle cos it gets covered in dirt and road grime, mudguards are a must for me I usually rivet an extended mudflap onto them, after most rides my bike is almost as clean as when I set out.
Lol at this "you've not ridden enough" comment, Dave (the bloke in the video) has only ridden from Alaska to the the tip of South America, and Cairo to cape town, so yea he needs to ride a lot more.
How far you ridden then, oh knowledgeable one?
@1:46 handlebars, interesting as I look back at my touring on an upright bike and I would change hand positions every 15 minutes because that was what I was taught for touring and yes you have about 5 positions to choose from. Now I ride a recumbent which has far better aerodynamics and I can ride for 3 hours with the same position as I no longer hold any body weight on the bars. Wish I had bought my recumbent far sooner. The truth of the matter about buying a touring bike is ,you can tour on any bike period. The only enhancements would be lower gearing and a decent saddle.
You can tour on any bike but you can't stay comfortable on just any bike.
Nonsense, there is huge difference between different sorts of material and geometry.
Keep your ignorance privat, thanks.
@@OmmerSyssel Please show us those differences .
Like always great video, excellent information thank you. Paul
Cheers Paul :)
At 04:00 How is a longer top tube going to give a more upright position? It seems to me, a longer top tube would lay a rider down more, right?
Did he have that backwards? Longer TT moves the saddle further form the handlebars
Nice !! I want that bike .. Add some fenders and you're ready
Great video, sound advice.
Hi Dave - cheers for this video. I'm planning on cycling across Europe next summer & so will require an appropriate bike for the job. I understand that bike prices can be astronomic: any recommendations for good touring bikes priced at about £500? Thanks!
You can definitely spend a small fortune if you want on a bike haha! For the 500 pound mark, I would recommend looking for a second hand Dawes touring bike. If you look on the Evans site, they might even have a new basic model (Galaxy) for around the mark for new. All the best for your bike tour across Europe next year!
Hello, mate! Like your bike a lot! Thinking of buying similar old style tourer which I plan to use as my road bike when it's not loaded. The bike seemed fine when I testrode it, but the tektro oryx brakes (cantis) were strange and unconvincing. Don't know if the bike is still worth buying or should I look for something more modern. I can see you have great avid cantis. How do you feel about them? Would you recomend the upgrade with the better cantis than oryx? Some say that there is no big of a difference. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi! The brakes on this one are great - most importantly, they stop well with a full load going downhill! I think overall its really difficult to compare different cantis as there could be other factors (rim age, how the brakes are set up, bike load).
@@DaveBriggs Thank you Dave! Still I don't know what to do. :) Lot of people are saying "no" to cantis, but there are lots of them saying they are as good as other rim sistems. I gues I have to risk, hoping that the brakes will brake in and eventually do just fine... Thank you for your replay!
The front tire is mounted backwards, the thread direction should be the opposite way.
Would this be the Dirk Diggler of Ceo.ca fame?
hahahaha...
On a road going bicycle, tread is completely unnecessary and serves no purpose.
Tire size?? 26ers for strength and widespread availability?? Also tire width?? I think min 32mm?? Maybe thicker for comfort, but not so thick they become a drag on speed or effort to pedal. One other- won't front paniers or front rack help distribute weight more evenly?? Otherwise everything's on the rear wheel and tire?? Thanks for the vid!!
Hi!
I think for bike touring, there are two different styles of touring. One which uses the classic touring bike (700), and expedition/multi-year tours of which I am a strong advocate for 26inch wheel. I've done plenty of videos in the past on 26 inch wheels/bikes, so thought I would go over the classic 700 touring bike set up. At the end of the day, this is the most popular sizing for bike touring after all!
Not sure if I mentioned in this or a previous video, that the reasons front panniers weren't fitted to this bike, was that I was aiming for a lightweight setup in terms of what I was carrying. For the bike tour around the Peloponnese, everything I needed fitted on the back rack and wasn't overweight at all - www.davestravelpages.com/bike-touring-gear-list-for-the-hercules-bike-tour-of-peloponnese/
Glad you enjoyed the vid!
Dave enjoyed the video particularly as I own a Roberts Tourer made for me. Not that I feel that its necessary as an off the peg Tourer can be adapted quite easily to fit you. Interesting to hear your views on the Brookes saddles because funnily enough I have two B17 Narrow fitted to two of my bikes and I struggle to get comfortable on them both. I am just hoping that if I persevere long enough they will mould to my body shape. Like your bike mine was fitted with XT components but my front chain set is a 44t triple and I am intrigued at the size of your biggest chain ring as I didn't realise you could get a larger one to fit the crank set.Now going to look at some more of your videos, thanks again.
Hi Ted,
Glad you enjoyed the video! I think the Brooks saddle experience is a very personal one - maybe they should use that catchphrase! I hope they mould for your soon, as it really does make a tremendous difference on long rides when touring.
I'm still going to do a review of the Skyelander as shown in this video. The transmission details are:
"Deore XT triple 26-36-48 chainset combined with the Deore 11-34 cassette provide a great gearing range for all terrain, and all hills with loaded panniers."
Hope you enjoy the rest of the videos!
Dave
Very like my Jamis Aurora. The only things I've had problems with were aluminium. The rear rack broke at a weld, the rear mudguard broke in two and a cheap Sidestand I added, fell to bits. Glad I didn't buy the fully aluminium touring bike from Evans.
The first thing to remember is that the purchase of the bike should be governed by the most extreme type of touring that the rider's needs encompass. Secondly, the bike must be able to accept fenders, tires and racks that are compatible with each other. Unless the anticipated touring does NOT involve rain, fenders are a must. And, of course, the bike must be designed so that your body can function naturally. Consequently, the saddle, handlebar, brake levers, shifters and pedals must be easily reached.
In touring, the wheels are the most important component. To get the strongest wheels, the dropouts should be spaced at 135 mm. The tires should be at least 32 mm but 35-42 mm is usually much better because the wider the tire, the lower the tire pressure that's required so less shock is transmitted to the bike. This is good for two reasons. First, obviously, less road shock will be transmitted to the rider. Touring is more fun when the rider is comfortable. Second, recent testing at VeloNews has shown that a high quality supple tire is also going to provide less rolling resistance. Additionally, with lower tire pressures (but not too low), more of the tire contacts the pavement leading to more traction, less tire wear and very possibly more puncture resistance.
I concur with the video with regard to the brakes. Unless the bike is going to see substantial offroad miles involving mud, cantilevers are the way to go. They are cheaper and easier to maintain. There's less interference with rack stays too. Disc brakes, especially hydraulic brakes are much more difficult to repair and if the tour is going through less developed countries, spare parts are going to be difficult to obtain. Keep the bike as simple as possible. Durability is more important than a snazzy looking bike.
Cycling purists tend to favor leather saddles. I'm not one of them. I prefer the gel-based saddles. There's no break-in and if the saddle is properly adjusted so that it's right where you need to sit, it will be a real friend. They are also much cheaper. If I were forced to use one the leather saddles, I'd dump it in some motor oil for a few minutes just like Lon Haldeman used to do when he was riding RAAM. Look for a saddle that's wide enough to is support your natural sit-bone position..
The purchase of a touring bicycle is probably the most complex and difficult type of bike to purchase.
I will add one other item that I think is really important and that is gearing. You need far less top end gearing and a lot more bottom end slow up horrible hills gearing. You can always switch cassettes when you get home again to go back to normal gears for the city. It is so nice to have a gear between on some climbs when you want one instead of wishing for one.
Agreed.
I agree with most of your statements.
For a touring bike I also would strongly recommend: Mudguards with mudflaps (It is amazing how many dirt and rain/wetness they'll keep away from the rider and the bike)
Personal, I don't like drop down handlebars - very unhealthy esp. in the lower positon.
What is with a hub gear - much more reliable or a hub dynamo with automatic functions and light is always there?
really interesting sir! Thank you.
Nice video mate :) I'm actually looking for a new bike like your's for the long European tour of approximately 3500 km distance. Thanks again
That design of touring bike would be ideal for a European tour. Happy Tailwinds!
Always a bell and lights.
hello,can i know what derailleur and crankset you use?
Deore xt
What do you think about putting drop bars on a 66mm travel fork
Sorry - I'm not technically minded enough to be able to answer that!
It works perfectly for my down hill full sus road bike.
Selle Anatomica X Series Leather saddle or Brooks Flyer Imperial Leather saddles are real nice
Nothing about fenders? Speaking from experience, they are essential.
Hi - Yep I've left fenders out as I think they are an accessory that is up to the individual rider. In my opinion, they are not a key element to a touring bike. My personal preference is to tour without them, due to several instances of mud clogging between the fenders and tyres in Alaska which prevented the wheel from actually going around! I think the fenders are probably still in an Alaska campsite somewhere :D
Depends on the conditions you will experience. A bit of mud betwixt the fender and the tire can be a drag , otoh spray from the wheels on a rainy cold day is something better minimized than endured.
Exactly. I think the key takeaway is to ensure that a new touring bike is able to take fenders (which most of them are), and then make your own decision as to whether to tour with them or not.
WOW! You are so wrong on this. You get fenders that can be easily removed when necessary. I think that is the difference in riders that ride and riders that sometimes ride.
I really don’t do well with the Cambium. To me, it feels like a Medieval torture device. But the B17 is perfect.
Totally agree! I tried with the Cambium, but never again!
Butterfly (aka Trekking) handlebars. My hands, wrists and shoulders are much happier. Or maybe the Jones H-Loop bars.
Lots of good info. Even a cheap saddle can be comfortable! Just try out quite a few. A little difficult as you don't really know until you have bought one and ridden a few hundred miles on it meaning you cannot really return it for a refund. Also you could possibly mention choice of pedals and gearing? And disc brake bikes are better all round ;@) better braking in dry or wet, and no worn out rims to replace meaning a new wheel build as well.
What has happened to your Rohloff bike? Surely you would prefer to be riding it? I would like to see a few more videos of you touring on it.
Looks like you came up with two subjects for future videos - pedals and gearing!
Indeed. Your Rohloff bike? Have you sold it?
I still have the Thorn Nomad (Rohloff). I don't think I've ever made a video on it. At the moment, it's in storage, but I'm due to take it out November, and give it a good clean and service!
What is your take on incumbent bikes for touring with e-assist for hills?
I think e-assist has real potential for bike touring, whether recumbent bikes or traditional. It's always going to be limited by the places you can recharge of course.
Any knowledge around Dynamos or solar sells in terms of recharging E-bike cells?
Not with my 300w foldable solar panel.
I personally find recumbents more dangerous because they sit so low they are often not seen by others. But if that's your thing they can take mid-drive add-on motors like most other bikes.
Dynamos will only change low voltage items like USB. You can get a 300w folding solar panel for $2500 bucks my friend.
In Europe drop bar aren't popular in touring bikes. Long stem quill is comfortable on long trips but looks not so good. 26 inch wheels are better in remote parts of world even in far east Russia you will have problem with buying 28 inch tires or rims. IMHO.
Good video....what is the size of your tires
It's designed with clearance for 35mm tyres with mudguards, or 45mm without mudguards. These are 35.
uh I haven’t seen bar end shifters since 1990s bikes, why do you recommend this
Adrian Caban In my opinion they are more reliable and easier to maintain than integrated shifters. That opinion is shared by touring bike manufacturers such as Stanforth (shown here) and Surly to name just 2 bike touring manufacturers.
how come nobody ever tells us what gearing they have on there bikes
6 speed, 13, 15, 17, 20, 24, 30 with a 46/36/24 front chain ring. There!
Mudguards....?
I love cycling, but I'm not built for it... I'm 6'4", 250, long legged, arms to my knees... Totally wrong it seems for long rides... I have a custom built Davidson, and still have forearm, neck, upper back issues... Looking into recumbents, but like them less every time I watch a youtube video and see them unable to track a smooth line, especially uphills... Trikes are too wide, taking up too much of any bike lane... Though they look comfortable as hell... Etc. Etc... Decisions, decisions.. I'm just going to go back to my bike and try to re-engineer the geometry some more... Sigh...
Any advice would be appreciated. And good video... Nothing like someone who has thousands of miles under their feet to explain why one thing is better than another...
I think given your build, trying to get a custom fit on a bike is all but essential. I know of one big fella who rode a Thorn Nomad bike, and made the thing look tiny, but he said it was comfortable - however he went into the store, and they set it up just for him. Perhaps a more upright style is going to take away the back and neck issues. Butterfly handlebars might also be an idea, as they will give your hands different positions which could take away the stress from your shoulders and upper back. Good luck, and I hope you find a ride that gives you many thousands of miles of comfortable, happy cycling!
Appreciate your response... I was thinking the same about the handlebars... Keep up the good work...
Ralph," Looking into recumbents, but like them less every time I watch a youtube video and see them unable to track a smooth line, especially uphills... " Just remember it is the rider not the bike or bent that is weaving on the uphills. I ride pain free so will not ride a diamond frame again.
Yea... I fully agree... My custom upright was never comfortable and I've lost half a decade of healthy exercise because it sits in the garage... I'm testing out a Cruz bike here next month... Pretty sure that's the one I'm getting... Thanks for the reply, and ride on brother...
You just need to pony up for the right bike. imgur.com/a/30EBO8o Recumbents wern't the answer for me.
Pedals what brand is it?
I'm not 100% sure what the pedals are. Drop Simon at Stanforth an email at info@stanforthbikes.co.uk and I'm sure he can let you know ;)
Sorin Negoita , MKS sylvan touring pedals, I believe..
my touring bike got 33 gears! take that 1x11 Sram mtb sadists who like to inflict pain on their chain with excessive cross chaining....
My recumbent touring bike has 27 gears ranging from 15" to 104" and I can use all 27 gears as the chain does not have the stretch worries that your normal bike does. I will never go back to a normal bike because I enjoy comfort too much and isn't that what you need on a tour?
Greetings from Germany. Schwalbe tyres are pronounced Shh-val-ber. It means "Swallow" in German.
Thanks for the correct way to pronounce it!! :)
Thanks for sharing 👍. Looking for one for a European Bike Tour! 👈
I hope this helps you make your choice! The bike shown here is the Stanforth Skyelander and is pretty ideal for European touring on mainly sealed roads. If you want something that will be equally good on rough roads, their Kibo+ expedition bike is a great choice. I rode that Kibo+ from Greece to England, and reviewed it over on this video - ruclips.net/video/r1lvNJ62lXY/видео.html
Whatever bike you choose, and whatever route you take, have a great time, and here's wishing you Happy Tailwinds into the New Year!
Your handlebar bag holder is set wrong.
It certainly is!
Dave Briggs Loved your Balkan series.
It's a great region to cycle through - I wish I have time next year to spend even longer cycling there!
Also I think the front tire is mounted in the wrong rolling direction. If you look close you can see the back tires treads are facing one way and the front tire tread is facing the other way. Love the steel frame.
Your front tire is put the wrong way.
5:39 - none of your ways to pronunce it is correct :) "Schwalbe" is pronounced "sch-val-beh"
Yes, you are right. Die Schwalbe (from German) - a swallow
say old man, can you play that fiddle?
I can get a tune out of it, but I'm actually a bass guitar player ;)
yes young feller I can fiddle just a little
Best rear bike rack