I would have bored the hub, made a ring 0.05 mm bigger than the hole in the hub, heat the hole to 120°C, fit the ring in the hole, cool down, remounted the hub on the late, recentered on the spindle and finally bored to shape of the bearing and fit the bearing in the housing. With this method the bearing housing has to be centered perfectly to the rotation axis of the hub. However it is a nice job too, well done mate!
This is incredible. I typically use shim stock or feeler gauges in the 6 to 8 thousandths of an inch to “shore” up a worn out hub that is too loose for bearings. Can make hub last awhile doing that. Of course your skill set and work here is excellent and beyond most mortals.
I know what you mean if the beating is inside a bore use the outside race to press it in, but if the bearing goes on a shaft use the inside race to fit. What you’re saying is true though, it can and will damage the bearing if fitted wrong especially when hitting it.
Wow nice work on reparing this hub!! It is unreal straight and looks very well balanced too! You have some incredible machinery skills sir! Thanks for sharing!! :)
Nice video! Do you understand WHY the bearing chewed out the hub? Because if you don't address that issue, it will happen again! Invariably, this is caused by a bent axle. If you think about it, a bent axle will put angular forces on the bearing with every revolution. That will try and tilt the bearing in its seat. The moment the force is big enough - i.e. the bend becomes bad enough - to start moving the bearing, the seat gets brinelled and then chews out. So the first thing to do after the repair you showed, is to roll the axle on a known flat surface and find the bend. You can then either straighten the axle or replace it. Please check the replacement for straightness too! I have found bent ones in the original packing :(
Bonjour primo on presse le morceau d aluminium plein puis on usine l intérieur de la 'nouvelle porté ,secondo quand on remet un nouveau roulement on ne tape ou il y a les billes mais sur la partie extérieur du roulement.avant de faire le malin sur le net faudrait apprendre les vrais base de la mécanique,
Just smear some JB weld around the bearing. Works great. You might need to heat the bearing with a propane torch to soften the JB weld when removing it. I repaired a hub like this on the video but it cracked a few months later due to the thinner hub. Tapping on the center of the bearing knocks little dents in the race. Shortens the life of the bearing. I've probably changed 10,000 dirt bike wheel bearings. I do want to add, the hub I lathed out was worse than this one on the video. The walls was most likely thinner
I enjoy watching your videos, hows the repair holding up? I’ve repaired bicycles with thin aluminum shims and they never held up to a beating. The material just too soft. The rear wheel will definitely take a beating. I would have welded it than machined it back to size. You could indicate off of the sprocket flange. Or if you wanted to still do the shim, make it out of high carbon or Chromoly Steel... a nice interference fit that requires heat and freezing and it would last indefinitely.
Отличная работа! Можно, как вариант, накаткой поднять металл и установить подшипник на анаэробный герметик? А почему не использовали посадку ремонтной втулки в натяг на горячую? Так было бы прочнее.
Hey Paul, it is a pleasure to watch your clip. I never miss your video presentation, not even one ! Good things come to those who work, keeping up buddy !
@@mikegro8502 - unless there is a spacer between the bearing and the swing arm mount that is not shown, there is nothing to secure the bearing from moving in and out in the bore. The brake side has a circlip on it, his repair of the sprocket side does not. Would have been very easy to cut a groove in for a circlip while it was chucked.
@@ScoredPiston It has a spacer. (one on each side) and also there is a seperate seal missing on both sides of the bearing. actually the circlip is useless... most wheel hubs I know dont even have a circlip
I have similar issue (not the same hub but different) why not put a bigger diameter bearing instead of creating a shim? will it weaken the hub and crack if done so?
Não sai mais barato e rápido comprar um cubo novo? Se fosse um pais do 3º mundo como o meu tudo bem, afinal aqui o Dólar é caro então tudo custa muito.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to use a boring head and bar in the mill? Just curious why you chose to do so in the lathe considering all the setup time and lots of stick out from chuck. great video and I’m no machining expert like you are, I’m just learning from watching videos like yours :)
I wouldn't do this to any motorcycle intended for a public road, but I've seen loose wheel bearings wrapped with a strip.of aluminum ( oh, let's picture a beer can) , then tapped into the hub, the alum.strip takes up the worn hub area, it doesn't " fix" worn parts, but will finish a weekend up in the boonies for a dirt bike. But it will work its way loose again. Just another weekend warrior sleazy field repair -#955
i dont know is it very good option put that fitting with glue and then glue anso bearing. when u have to replace those bearings its going to fall apart. you shoud have just weld there more material..
Хобби
I would have bored the hub, made a ring 0.05 mm bigger than the hole in the hub, heat the hole to 120°C, fit the ring in the hole, cool down, remounted the hub on the late, recentered on the spindle and finally bored to shape of the bearing and fit the bearing in the housing. With this method the bearing housing has to be centered perfectly to the rotation axis of the hub. However it is a nice job too, well done mate!
Thanks for watching.
Yes this is the way too.
This is incredible. I typically use shim stock or feeler gauges in the 6 to 8 thousandths of an inch to “shore” up a worn out hub that is too loose for bearings. Can make hub last awhile doing that. Of course your skill set and work here is excellent and beyond most mortals.
Amazing job. Maybe easy for you, but to us, a piece of art. Congrats
Thank you very much.
Yes that's true.
Allways, amazing work and great edition!. Thanks Paul!
Thanks
Why not have a interference fit with the shim?
Never hit the inside ring or the balls of the bearing, only the outside ring.
I know what you mean if the beating is inside a bore use the outside race to press it in, but if the bearing goes on a shaft use the inside race to fit. What you’re saying is true though, it can and will damage the bearing if fitted wrong especially when hitting it.
Wow nice work on reparing this hub!! It is unreal straight and looks very well balanced too! You have some incredible machinery skills sir! Thanks for sharing!! :)
I love having a lathe and mill too. I fix anything on Sunday, no need to wait for the part store to open.
👍
Dude you are the best ! keep working like this
Nice video! Do you understand WHY the bearing chewed out the hub?
Because if you don't address that issue, it will happen again!
Invariably, this is caused by a bent axle. If you think about it, a bent axle will put angular forces on the bearing with every revolution. That will try and tilt the bearing in its seat. The moment the force is big enough - i.e. the bend becomes bad enough - to start moving the bearing, the seat gets brinelled and then chews out.
So the first thing to do after the repair you showed, is to roll the axle on a known flat surface and find the bend. You can then either straighten the axle or replace it. Please check the replacement for straightness too! I have found bent ones in the original packing :(
Ok.
Thanks.
4:40
Take away metal is crazy idea!
Better is welding if its possible!
Bonjour primo on presse le morceau d aluminium plein puis on usine l intérieur de la 'nouvelle porté ,secondo quand on remet un nouveau roulement on ne tape ou il y a les billes mais sur la partie extérieur du roulement.avant de faire le malin sur le net faudrait apprendre les vrais base de la mécanique,
Aluminium bush should be install tightly in wheel hub.
See you next time. Thanks for sharing 😊
Just smear some JB weld around the bearing. Works great. You might need to heat the bearing with a propane torch to soften the JB weld when removing it. I repaired a hub like this on the video but it cracked a few months later due to the thinner hub. Tapping on the center of the bearing knocks little dents in the race. Shortens the life of the bearing. I've probably changed 10,000 dirt bike wheel bearings. I do want to add, the hub I lathed out was worse than this one on the video. The walls was most likely thinner
I enjoy watching your videos, hows the repair holding up? I’ve repaired bicycles with thin aluminum shims and they never held up to a beating. The material just too soft. The rear wheel will definitely take a beating. I would have welded it than machined it back to size. You could indicate off of the sprocket flange. Or if you wanted to still do the shim, make it out of high carbon or Chromoly Steel... a nice interference fit that requires heat and freezing and it would last indefinitely.
So good so interesting
Your work is so good, wish you could fix my 54 year old rear hub damper pockets
Parabéns! Ótimo trabalho ,preciso. Sou seu adimirador aqui no Brasil.
Great job! My sprocket side has double bearings. I press them in on the outer race.
man, try next time to use shop press when pressing the bearings inside any hub...
Good work and smoothness Mr. Repairing.....!
everytime your work is precise and beautiful.
Un placer ver los trabajos que realizas. espectacular.
Nice job!
BUT !!!!
When install a bearing in a hole, the pressure must to be on outside side of the bearing! And it is beter to use press!
💯👍
Отличная работа! Можно, как вариант, накаткой поднять металл и установить подшипник на анаэробный герметик?
А почему не использовали посадку ремонтной втулки в натяг на горячую? Так было бы прочнее.
You did it again. Good job!!!
Very Nice done I put a compleet alu piece in the hub en then turn the whole for the bearings put the alu piece in the hub tighten congrats
Thanks.
Yes it can also be done this way.
👍👍👍
Hey Paul, it is a pleasure to watch your clip. I never miss your video presentation, not even one ! Good things come to those who work, keeping up buddy !
Te quedo cheto amigo. Bien ahí
Must be a very expensive hub to absorb this much machine time!
Costs around 210€ new. But if it’s his own hub and he has all the tools, the machine time sure is worth it
MASTER REGARDS from Canada Zbigniew dziekuje
You’re doing great.
Great example of machining!!
Nice... I wonder, if full alloi rim, how to do that. U going to hv limitation on t lathe
Great job and a pleasure to watch your work
Thanks
Perfect ! ...... genius as it is.
I am loving this channel! Super filming!
Отличная работа!
So…what keeps the bearing on the sprocket side from walking in and out? There’s no circlip or retainer of any kind.
Where should it go? the inner ring is boltet to the axle
@@mikegro8502 - unless there is a spacer between the bearing and the swing arm mount that is not shown, there is nothing to secure the bearing from moving in and out in the bore. The brake side has a circlip on it, his repair of the sprocket side does not. Would have been very easy to cut a groove in for a circlip while it was chucked.
@@ScoredPiston It has a spacer. (one on each side)
and also there is a seperate seal missing on both sides of the bearing.
actually the circlip is useless... most wheel hubs I know dont even have a circlip
Great work👍🏻 What would this roughly cost to carry out this repair? Thanks
That’s awesome 👏 work like 👍
Buen trabajo!!!
Nicely done ✅👍
Goldsmith work 👌👍
Thanks
The smoothness!
Good job!
Wonderful job
wow awesome job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Из стали долговечней,и стенку можно тоньше сделать,дюраль такой толщины будет деформироватьса.
Hey Paul X, nice video! 100% craftsmanship! If I may ask, what's the red stuff u are using when mounting the bearings?
Thanks.
Assembly oil
Muito bom 🇧🇷
You're awesome!!!
Какое биение осталось,нужно было показать до и после,что бы это дало?Имея твои возможности.Но это и узнаешь сам,только позже.
Great job paul
Thanks
Why not steel bushing? Or ss
Los rodamientos solo se golpean por la pista que encaja hay la liaste por lo demas perfet
Nice work, what kind of H.P Alu are you using? 7075 T6 ?
Thanks
AlMgSi0.5
Best master moto!100% Крым
Ahora la corona y el disco no estaran en medida y el fijador cataliza por presion, no es un adhesivo.
can you send me the link to where i can buy thr bearngs for this hub? thank you
Great job.
Thanks
KTM? explains everything!!
Why not use a 4 jaw to mount the hub fixture ,instead of beating on it with a hammer ? The 4 jaw is also more stable
what is this hub ? i'm looking for this kind of hub with the same flange and the same bolt circle diameter.
Excusime, how match money the work?
What did you use to glue the bearing to the housing, please?
Loctite 638
There was no better quality bearings on the shop?
Good work my friend
Thanks
Can I buy this sleeve anywhere ? You sell ?
Nice.👍👍👍
ciao vorrei sapere di che moto è questo mozzo e di quale anno grazie
why was there a circlip on on side and not the other?
Wow... that tool price at 6:49 in my country, can buy cbr150 or yzf r15... 😍
When you need thin bushing try to make some kind of face grooving tool, that way you can Save a lot of material
Ok
You do understand that you arn't a movie producer with all these special effects.I like your work .
I have similar issue (not the same hub but different) why not put a bigger diameter bearing instead of creating a shim? will it weaken the hub and crack if done so?
Yes
Hi very good
Não sai mais barato e rápido comprar um cubo novo? Se fosse um pais do 3º mundo como o meu tudo bem, afinal aqui o Dólar é caro então tudo custa muito.
Perfect
Very nice
sois unos crack
Wouldn’t it have been easier to use a boring head and bar in the mill? Just curious why you chose to do so in the lathe considering all the setup time and lots of stick out from chuck. great video and I’m no machining expert like you are, I’m just learning from watching videos like yours :)
It can also be done at the mill but not with such precision :)
Paul X true! Thanks for your response Paul
kolik hodin to trvalo i s přípravou?
it is a lot easier to mount a one size biger bearing....
I wouldn't do this to any motorcycle intended for a public road, but I've seen loose wheel bearings wrapped with a strip.of aluminum ( oh, let's picture a beer can) , then tapped into the hub, the alum.strip takes up the worn hub area, it doesn't " fix" worn parts, but will finish a weekend up in the boonies for a dirt bike. But it will work its way loose again.
Just another weekend warrior sleazy field repair -#955
Why not just overbore för a 48mm bearing?
I was wondering the same? maybe it weakens the hub?
Speed +2
Super glue 👍
BLUE IZOLENTA 💪
i dont know is it very good option put that fitting with glue and then glue anso bearing. when u have to replace those bearings its going to fall apart. you shoud have just weld there more material..
en costa rica eso se llama una camisa
hello i would like to know what bike is this up and what year. thanks
Ktm sx-f 450
one day i have made one of this repairs, the whole school kept watchin when i spind the whole wheel with tire and everything on... at 435 RPM XDD
can i contact you i need this done?
Le falto un poquito más de tiraje a ese casquillo
Super
Di indonesia teknik kaya gitu, pelanggan pada kabur boskuuu
👍
Fucking superb! Two thumbs up
what is high performance aluminum?
AlMgSi0.5
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Чистая победа!