Nice!! Better check the driver-side of the motor where the trans mates to it. There is a rear and front coolant pipe that run into the thermostat housing. Same gaskets, same failures. Found the same red sludge coming out of those. Not easy to replace those unless the cat is removed, and you will be better off replacing the t stat and it's heat-soaked aluminum housing while you are there. Last set of o-ring gaskets are the heater hose pipe connections behind the motor. Be careful working around the plastic piping that runs along the firewall (vaccuum booster lines), Fragile and not a local part-store part.
I probably need to do this. I am a little hesitant after the comment about re-installing the charge pipe. That looks like a bunch of extra effort/time to do. Would the stock charge pipe be as much of a hassle to reinstall, or could it just be rotated out of the way a little??
Have you ever had an issue with oil getting in the coolant reservoir? Not sure if it’s a blown head gasket, the car runs fine and isn’t overheating at all
Hey really interesting video! Btw i need to change the coolant on my saab 9-3 v6 2.8 ss, do you know how many liter antifreeze it take? Thank you in advance 👍
Hey man!! Looking at a 2.8 for 700 dollars. Guy says it's leaking coolant and 2 of the windows don't work which I'm guessing is a regulator issue. The door handle on the driver side seems to be disconnected. What do you think?
My leak came back after 3 days so it probably wasn't the inlet/outlet gaskets. I ended up tearing back in and replaced the water pump and gasket. Its been 4 days and no leak yet, but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed. I suggest that anyone who attempts a fix just go ahead and replace the water pump along with the gaskets since the bulk of this job is the hassle of removing parts to gain access. When I did the first teardown, it really looked like the leak was coming from the inlet/outlet. In retrospect, the water pump is centered below those gaskets, so its difficult to really tell the leak source. Who knows...maybe everything was leaking too. I did triple check everything on this teardown...I just can't see any other failure point. All my hoses looked dry as a bone so it seems unlikely any of them had an issue. If the leak comes back again, I'm probably just giving up. On a good note, the water pump is very easy to install. Its messy though. In spite of fully draining the coolant (again..I guess I'll have a very good flush at the end of this), there's no easy way to NOT spill about a pint of fluid down the side of the engine and onto the floor. Stuff some towels underneath the pump before your remove it. It'll still be a wet mess though, and you may want to hose off the engine to avoid coolant stink. I applied blue RTV on both sides of the metal waterpump gasket. The RTV works like a glue to keep the gasket well positioned on the water pump while you fit it back on the engine block. I bought the kit from esaab that came with the 3 gaskets, water pump, wp gasket, tensioner, and serpentine hose. It was $130 for all. Again, the time is the hassle for this job. The parts are pretty cheap in comparison. Just replace it all when you do it. Don't be like me and end up wasting an extra 3 hours doing it a second time.
Yep, water pump is definitely a pretty straight forward job (I ended up doing it too). I agree with you: probably best to just get it all done at once!
Just a check-in to mention I haven't seen any drips since I did the water pump. The entire kit with pump, gaskets, serp belt and tensioner (didn't use) was only $130. Thats not bad for parts costs. At the moment, its out of stock at esaab though.
Another check in. Unfortunately I still get an occasional drip of coolant on the garage floor. Its not much and its not every time the car is driven. I also get an occasional drip of oil. It feels like my old Triumph motorcycle days...that its just something it does. On rare occasions I get a sniff of coolant when driving but then the smell disappears right away. Maybe there's a heater core hose with a small crack? I'm not bothering with trying to do any more repair work. Whatever leak I have is small enough that I haven't had to add coolant in over six months.
Got everything swapped. I have near identical residue as you had on yours. I still have to put the airbox in, refill the coolant, and install the liner/wheel. I had a bunch of gummy blackish residue behind the larger o-ring groove. The larger o-ring didn't look so good. I wonder if it crud was some kind of stop-leak sealant or RTV. I've never used it myself, but it could have been a first owner thing. The irregular gasket still seemed really good. The smaller o ring was in fair shape. The coolant that came out looked good...bright orange...no sediment, residue, or streakiness. I saw another video where someone put AC Delco stopleak tabs in as a maintenance item on a coolant flush. I presume that's a bad/unnecessary thing unless I still have a leak (AND get desperate and lazy). The bolt you mentioned was a hassle, and a smaller one just below it holding a hose clamp. I had to use a 3/8" ratchet with a cheater tube to break it loose....then multiple extensions, socket depths, and a regular wrench to back it out . Those AC? lines are a pain to work around. I also put in a new expansion tank that I'd been sitting on for over a year. Maybe I'll finally have a working level sensor too!
But soooo worth it to enjoy these great cars, especially if you DIY. All the professional instructions are available if you join the online SAAB groups.
@@AutoAutopsy exactly. Shopping smart and installing yourself makes these cars very inexpensive to own. Replaced the fuel pump on the 05 vert with the GM version that happens to be the same as my 2002 GMC truck, did the work myself. Not hard if the tank is near empty. Saab branded part was a $$$, GM part was 1/3 the cost and Identical right down to the modules inside, psi and flow rate. It was also far easier than dropping the tank in the truck. Very good SAAB design on the straps and connectors for tank removal. Price at the local SAAB shop was $800, dealer was $1100, but it only cost about $100 plus a bit of sweat. Put that money into oil and gas instead! :-)
@@AutoAutopsy its difficult to get New OEM parts because of the age.... im from germany and drive a opel signum z28net (b248r) Its a battle for New parts..... many parts only from the US via eBay ;)
I just had this exact problem on my car, I almost gave up. Thanks for saving me a trip to the mechanic!
Glad it helped
Nice!! Better check the driver-side of the motor where the trans mates to it. There is a rear and front coolant pipe that run into the thermostat housing. Same gaskets, same failures. Found the same red sludge coming out of those. Not easy to replace those unless the cat is removed, and you will be better off replacing the t stat and it's heat-soaked aluminum housing while you are there. Last set of o-ring gaskets are the heater hose pipe connections behind the motor. Be careful working around the plastic piping that runs along the firewall (vaccuum booster lines), Fragile and not a local part-store part.
Thank you; if the problem arises again I'll definitely check there
Using a silicone grade lubricant protects o-rings from leaking and does not attack rubber as many petroleum lubricants will. Great video.
Thank you !
Thanks for uploading! My 2006 9-5 has a slow coolant leak...I’ll definitely check the gaskets and o rings.
My was just leaking try checking the engine coolant bypass hose that's where mine was
Will do! Thanks :)
good luck!
really good job on the video. first time viewer. keep up the good work, bro
thanks!
Glad you got that sorted ! And bless you !
LOL, thanks!
I probably need to do this. I am a little hesitant after the comment about re-installing the charge pipe. That looks like a bunch of extra effort/time to do. Would the stock charge pipe be as much of a hassle to reinstall, or could it just be rotated out of the way a little??
stock charge pipe would be easier, as it's in more pieces!
@@AutoAutopsy Cool. I appreciate the guidance! I probably wouldn't try this if it weren't for your video.
Great video
What is the chamber called I may have missed it ?
Great video, great help. but could you tell me the name of the part that required the water seals, please?
The one's replaced? If you go on www.esaabparts.com cooling system diagram, you can locate them pretty easily!
Pretty sure I’m having this exact issue right now.
What’s the part you fixed? What gasket kit do I need?
That was a great video. Must have the same problem on my 2006 aero (Changed my water pump 1 year ago). What was the rate of coolant loss you had;
It would drip out fairly quickly, so the car wasn't really drivable
@@AutoAutopsy Thank you. Did you use any part other than 12566429, 12584040 codes?
@@mariosk.7048 For what replacement?
For the one in this video. The gaskets in the coolant lines
@@mariosk.7048 Yes, that's two of them. Check esaabparts for the diagram to see what other ones you might need
You are a brave man rocking those shorts. I am curious why you didn't just replace the water pump since you are already there?
It didn't need to be replaced. Hope I don't regret that soon down the road though
When I did my thermostat it said to use petroleum jelly on the o-rings and gaskets
Yeah, that helps
Have you ever had an issue with oil getting in the coolant reservoir? Not sure if it’s a blown head gasket, the car runs fine and isn’t overheating at all
Never. I would try asking on a facebook group; maybe someone there can give you some better direction than i can
Saab skills 👌👍😎
;)
Отличная работа!
Hey really interesting video! Btw i need to change the coolant on my saab 9-3 v6 2.8 ss, do you know how many liter antifreeze it take? Thank you in advance 👍
I do not; I would buy a container of Dexcool concentrate and mix that with some water until it's full lol
Hey man!! Looking at a 2.8 for 700 dollars. Guy says it's leaking coolant and 2 of the windows don't work which I'm guessing is a regulator issue. The door handle on the driver side seems to be disconnected. What do you think?
cant go wrong for $700, assuming its not leaking coolant from a really bad place
do you have the park numbers for the gaskets? looks like I have the same issue with my '07 aero
I don't off the top of my head, but they're easy to locate on www.esaabparts.com!
How did you remove the power steering pump to get to the last bolt on the tensioner?
i didn't;t remove the power steering pump
Just a note ...Those are some BIG ASS Breaks stopping power should be decent ... finally the nav video
Yeah, it's pretty good ;)
Love the intake kit. Do88?
Yep! ruclips.net/video/nuYuFOj1tiQ/видео.html
Bro, did you get the aero steering wheel to work with the 2.0? Please respond.
I have not had it looked at with a tech 2 yet; will keep everyone posted, especially via instagram
hell yea!
My leak came back after 3 days so it probably wasn't the inlet/outlet gaskets. I ended up tearing back in and replaced the water pump and gasket. Its been 4 days and no leak yet, but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed. I suggest that anyone who attempts a fix just go ahead and replace the water pump along with the gaskets since the bulk of this job is the hassle of removing parts to gain access.
When I did the first teardown, it really looked like the leak was coming from the inlet/outlet. In retrospect, the water pump is centered below those gaskets, so its difficult to really tell the leak source. Who knows...maybe everything was leaking too. I did triple check everything on this teardown...I just can't see any other failure point. All my hoses looked dry as a bone so it seems unlikely any of them had an issue. If the leak comes back again, I'm probably just giving up.
On a good note, the water pump is very easy to install. Its messy though. In spite of fully draining the coolant (again..I guess I'll have a very good flush at the end of this), there's no easy way to NOT spill about a pint of fluid down the side of the engine and onto the floor. Stuff some towels underneath the pump before your remove it. It'll still be a wet mess though, and you may want to hose off the engine to avoid coolant stink.
I applied blue RTV on both sides of the metal waterpump gasket. The RTV works like a glue to keep the gasket well positioned on the water pump while you fit it back on the engine block.
I bought the kit from esaab that came with the 3 gaskets, water pump, wp gasket, tensioner, and serpentine hose. It was $130 for all. Again, the time is the hassle for this job. The parts are pretty cheap in comparison. Just replace it all when you do it. Don't be like me and end up wasting an extra 3 hours doing it a second time.
Yep, water pump is definitely a pretty straight forward job (I ended up doing it too). I agree with you: probably best to just get it all done at once!
@@AutoAutopsy Good to know. I am about to do this job. Would you know the seal part # for the water pump you used?
Just a check-in to mention I haven't seen any drips since I did the water pump. The entire kit with pump, gaskets, serp belt and tensioner (didn't use) was only $130. Thats not bad for parts costs. At the moment, its out of stock at esaab though.
Another check in. Unfortunately I still get an occasional drip of coolant on the garage floor. Its not much and its not every time the car is driven. I also get an occasional drip of oil. It feels like my old Triumph motorcycle days...that its just something it does. On rare occasions I get a sniff of coolant when driving but then the smell disappears right away. Maybe there's a heater core hose with a small crack? I'm not bothering with trying to do any more repair work. Whatever leak I have is small enough that I haven't had to add coolant in over six months.
Top class video.. great info. thank you. by the way can you give a link to the parts used.
Thanks! They are available on esaabparts
Those wheels don't look as weird as those shorts.
Got everything swapped. I have near identical residue as you had on yours. I still have to put the airbox in, refill the coolant, and install the liner/wheel.
I had a bunch of gummy blackish residue behind the larger o-ring groove. The larger o-ring didn't look so good. I wonder if it crud was some kind of stop-leak sealant or RTV. I've never used it myself, but it could have been a first owner thing.
The irregular gasket still seemed really good. The smaller o ring was in fair shape. The coolant that came out looked good...bright orange...no sediment, residue, or streakiness.
I saw another video where someone put AC Delco stopleak tabs in as a maintenance item on a coolant flush. I presume that's a bad/unnecessary thing unless I still have a leak (AND get desperate and lazy).
The bolt you mentioned was a hassle, and a smaller one just below it holding a hose clamp. I had to use a 3/8" ratchet with a cheater tube to break it loose....then multiple extensions, socket depths, and a regular wrench to back it out . Those AC? lines are a pain to work around.
I also put in a new expansion tank that I'd been sitting on for over a year. Maybe I'll finally have a working level sensor too!
awesome! congrats on the hard work. yeah, you described those "stop leak" tabs perfectly, best to just avoid those if possible
Yo dude! Are you in Tempe?
Phoenix area, yep!
God bless u
is there any question why the SAAB is expensive to repair ;)
But soooo worth it to enjoy these great cars, especially if you DIY.
All the professional instructions are available if you join the online SAAB groups.
It's a turbo x, its rare, parts are not as easy to find as a 9-5
@@MassiveTrackHunter no criticism implied. longing for the good old days of the "96" :)
those gaskets and serpentine belt were less than $40 all together lol
@@AutoAutopsy exactly.
Shopping smart and installing yourself makes these cars very inexpensive to own.
Replaced the fuel pump on the 05 vert with the GM version that happens to be the same as my 2002 GMC truck, did the work myself. Not hard if the tank is near empty. Saab branded part was a $$$, GM part was 1/3 the cost and Identical right down to the modules inside, psi and flow rate. It was also far easier than dropping the tank in the truck. Very good SAAB design on the straps and connectors for tank removal. Price at the local SAAB shop was $800, dealer was $1100, but it only cost about $100 plus a bit of sweat. Put that money into oil and gas instead! :-)
👍👍👍
Just replace all the rubber gaskets.... they are junk by now
that's exactly what i did...
@@AutoAutopsy its difficult to get New OEM parts because of the age.... im from germany and drive a opel signum z28net (b248r)
Its a battle for New parts..... many parts only from the US via eBay ;)
@@TheArdanwen Yeah, luckily we can still get parts here in the states from a couple of different sources