No output power on 1 et 2. The diagram is not clear concerning wiring A1 and A2 and I do not want to short circuit or damage this circuit breaker. Please send me more informations : I saw others users wiring and mine don't work. But fortunately the green led and wifi work.
Got the home hub free from Makro, sale item with no cost, and discontinued, so got it free. Similar inside, just has a few sockets to connect the other modules like a display and wireless card, providing power and a microcontroller. Hard to open as well, rivets and glue as well. Sonoff modules are also available off the shelf at Mantech, but never asked the price for them, just saw on the display shelf. R205 each for the basic though on the website. They do get a lot more expensive though for other models.
Awesome video, great to see some SA content creators and reviews. I have a whole bunch of Sonoff switches all running custom firmware (tasmota to be specific). Do you know if this ESP chip can be flashed with custom firmware like tasmota?
Hi great teardown (and review)! Did you by any chance look at which GPIO is connected to the relay/led/button? I am thinking about reflashing something like Tasmota, but the other option is to maybe just reverse the mqtt messages and then forward the mqtt messages to a local server.
Does this give surge protection? If i power it off via my phone during lightning, can the surge still go to source if the switch is on off position but obviously still powered?
Thanks for the great review. Can two or more of these be configured to work together perhaps? I would like to control spikes seeing as I'm on solar were I would like my geyser to be switch on during the day but asa it reaches the desired temperature and it switched off it immediately switch on the pool pump. Thus allowing for faster switching between power heavy devices. Alternatively a way to auto switch between loads like having the geyser on but if you switch on a stove it switches the geyser off and when you switch the stove off it auto switches the geyser back on. Thank you
I'm looking to do similar things, but I'd prefer to control the switches via Home Assistant / Node-Red etc. Ideally, I'd like to install a Tamota firmware, and control using MQTT, but if I can't do that, a local API would suffice. Haven't managed to find any documentation on this though.
We much prefer this to the SONOFF stuff, but today I almost installed on my geyser to find its only 16A and geysers are 20A.. what to do for 20A variants?
If I have checked correctly, you have 230v Electricity where you are. In South Africa we also have 230v, and our Geysers are typically 3KW (Sometimes 4KW), which works out to 13A (18A). What I would do just to be on the safe side, is have a Sonoff or the TWST Timer just power the coil of a Contactor. The Geyser will then be powered through the contactor (which has a higher current rating than the dinky little relay in the TWST/Sonoffs.
No output power on 1 et 2. The diagram is not clear concerning wiring A1 and A2 and I do not want to short circuit or damage this circuit breaker. Please send me more informations : I saw others users wiring and mine don't work. But fortunately the green led and wifi work.
I would whant to know myself what is the proper way to wire it.
Got the home hub free from Makro, sale item with no cost, and discontinued, so got it free. Similar inside, just has a few sockets to connect the other modules like a display and wireless card, providing power and a microcontroller. Hard to open as well, rivets and glue as well.
Sonoff modules are also available off the shelf at Mantech, but never asked the price for them, just saw on the display shelf. R205 each for the basic though on the website. They do get a lot more expensive though for other models.
Awesome video, great to see some SA content creators and reviews. I have a whole bunch of Sonoff switches all running custom firmware (tasmota to be specific). Do you know if this ESP chip can be flashed with custom firmware like tasmota?
Hi great teardown (and review)! Did you by any chance look at which GPIO is connected to the relay/led/button? I am thinking about reflashing something like Tasmota, but the other option is to maybe just reverse the mqtt messages and then forward the mqtt messages to a local server.
Not getting output at terminals 1 and 2.. connected inputs line and Neutral.
Does this give surge protection?
If i power it off via my phone during lightning, can the surge still go to source if the switch is on off position but obviously still powered?
Thanks for the great review.
Can two or more of these be configured to work together perhaps?
I would like to control spikes seeing as I'm on solar were I would like my geyser to be switch on during the day but asa it reaches the desired temperature and it switched off it immediately switch on the pool pump. Thus allowing for faster switching between power heavy devices.
Alternatively a way to auto switch between loads like having the geyser on but if you switch on a stove it switches the geyser off and when you switch the stove off it auto switches the geyser back on. Thank you
I'm looking to do similar things, but I'd prefer to control the switches via Home Assistant / Node-Red etc. Ideally, I'd like to install a Tamota firmware, and control using MQTT, but if I can't do that, a local API would suffice. Haven't managed to find any documentation on this though.
Which ones like these have power consumption graphs as well?
Also are there mini din rail versions? For cbi
Is it retain the same status if electric gone???
will you please let me know how and where you would install the timer in your home?
this clearly goes on the DB board
What app do you use,because I cannot find it?
We much prefer this to the SONOFF stuff, but today I almost installed on my geyser to find its only 16A and geysers are 20A.. what to do for 20A variants?
If I have checked correctly, you have 230v Electricity where you are. In South Africa we also have 230v, and our Geysers are typically 3KW (Sometimes 4KW), which works out to 13A (18A). What I would do just to be on the safe side, is have a Sonoff or the TWST Timer just power the coil of a Contactor. The Geyser will then be powered through the contactor (which has a higher current rating than the dinky little relay in the TWST/Sonoffs.