@@Shaka1277 maybe it's worh a shot to try some split grade printing on this one? you may be able to tame the contrast in the shadows and make that fog less problematic. That sounds hard to pull it off... Also I may be 100% off base and this may not be the approach to use when trying to do this in the darkroom.... I say this as an amateur whose the ownership of an enlarger is counted in months not years!
10:02 Keep in mind that this will make the halation worse! You are focusing the visible part of the spectrum, leaving the actual infrared light (which is focus shifted due to refracting differently) out of focus. For optimal results you want to focus in the infrared.
@@Shaka1277 You're welcome. I'll add that it might not matter that much if you're stopped down, but it can definitely get worse if you have a fast lens wide open. I shoot infrared and such digitally and you can definitely tell when you include two different parts of the light spectrum that the lens can't focus on the same plane. It results in one part being rendered sharp and the other one is sort of a blurry ghost image behind it. If you're doing visual red to 950nm it might not be that intense, depends on the lens. I would still assume that most of the image recorded would consist of infrared though, so you might see sharper results if you focus for that, especially wide open.
I know about it being an issue with converted digi cameras but I hadn't heard about it on film. I'll have to borrow a (comparatively) very fast wide lens with an IR index marker when I test it out.
@@Shaka1277 I feel like it might be even worse fast with longer lenses (worst I encountered was while using a fast 50 on apsc), but sure. Thanks for the reply and have fun testing, man!
I just found a roll I didn't even know I had that came with some darkroom equipment i got from a WWII vet who'd owned the enlarger since just after the war. I found a random little metal canister with a screw top lid that said to open only in complete darkness and it never occurred to me that it'd be HIE. So I unscrewed it, saw the lime geen film, and quickly closed the lid. I havent shot HIE in almost 20 years. Now I have another chance with it. But I have to assume it's been stored very poorly and is probably pushing 40 or 50 years old if it was in a metal can. But I have to try. Your video will be enormously helpful in figuring out how to rate this stuff. Thank you.
Oh that's a nice bit of history! Opening the can for a moment won't ruin the film - I loaded my most recent roll outdoors to prove and point and it only burned 1.5 frames. Hoping you get something out of it :)
I vaguely recall shooting this film in the early to mid 1960s, my first "infrared period". At the time it was considered only somewhat grainy, as the comparison was Plus-X and the old Tri-X, which were quite a bit "grainier" than similar speed modern B&W film stocks. I didn't shoot a lot of rolls, and my subjects were quite derivative, wooded landscapes and seascapes with lots of cumulus clouds. The infrared novelty wore off fast at the time, mainly because printing 11 x14 inch cropped prints from 35mm, and the occasional 16x 20, was hard enough without the sharpness and grain issues. (The standards of the day did not accept a place for creative grain.) The one impact I see from the passage of time and film expiration here is that the relatively poor dark shadow detail inherent in infrared film generally is going to be exacerbated by the heavy base fog you are getting from the film aging, i.e., inky black shadows.
You can actually load this stuff with a blue LED safelight if you are careful. Useful for cameras that cannot be blind-loaded such as some swing-lens cameeras.
some people say those pesky DX code readers can effect High speed IR Film fogging - dont think I will ever get my hands on a roll like this if it is so expensive now.
@@Shaka1277 yea I was misinformed the darkroom article I had found online on further research it seems to be a few Canon cameras use led sensors for counting sprockets, it seems I may not have been the only person that had this misconception. Some one should really get that article corrected as it is quite prominent and I came across it while researching shooting Ir film. That ir film you are shooting might be good for trichroming due to it working with red filter and fast shutterspeeds less movement between shots. Thst is my next project to try.
The lighthouse shot is unbelievable! Thats a career shot right there
When I have more experience, I hope to print it in the darkroom. The heavy fog will make it tough but I think I can do it. Thanks, Evan!
@@Shaka1277 maybe it's worh a shot to try some split grade printing on this one? you may be able to tame the contrast in the shadows and make that fog less problematic. That sounds hard to pull it off... Also I may be 100% off base and this may not be the approach to use when trying to do this in the darkroom.... I say this as an amateur whose the ownership of an enlarger is counted in months not years!
Awesome. I’ve got one roll of this expired in 2009 and still figuring out how I want to shoot it
Those example shots are gorgeous… oh my.
10:02 Keep in mind that this will make the halation worse! You are focusing the visible part of the spectrum, leaving the actual infrared light (which is focus shifted due to refracting differently) out of focus. For optimal results you want to focus in the infrared.
I've never heard that, so I'll make sure to actually check it the next time I shoot a roll - thanks for the heads up!
@@Shaka1277 You're welcome. I'll add that it might not matter that much if you're stopped down, but it can definitely get worse if you have a fast lens wide open. I shoot infrared and such digitally and you can definitely tell when you include two different parts of the light spectrum that the lens can't focus on the same plane. It results in one part being rendered sharp and the other one is sort of a blurry ghost image behind it. If you're doing visual red to 950nm it might not be that intense, depends on the lens. I would still assume that most of the image recorded would consist of infrared though, so you might see sharper results if you focus for that, especially wide open.
I know about it being an issue with converted digi cameras but I hadn't heard about it on film. I'll have to borrow a (comparatively) very fast wide lens with an IR index marker when I test it out.
@@Shaka1277 I feel like it might be even worse fast with longer lenses (worst I encountered was while using a fast 50 on apsc), but sure. Thanks for the reply and have fun testing, man!
I just found a roll I didn't even know I had that came with some darkroom equipment i got from a WWII vet who'd owned the enlarger since just after the war.
I found a random little metal canister with a screw top lid that said to open only in complete darkness and it never occurred to me that it'd be HIE. So I unscrewed it, saw the lime geen film, and quickly closed the lid.
I havent shot HIE in almost 20 years. Now I have another chance with it. But I have to assume it's been stored very poorly and is probably pushing 40 or 50 years old if it was in a metal can.
But I have to try. Your video will be enormously helpful in figuring out how to rate this stuff. Thank you.
Oh that's a nice bit of history! Opening the can for a moment won't ruin the film - I loaded my most recent roll outdoors to prove and point and it only burned 1.5 frames. Hoping you get something out of it :)
I vaguely recall shooting this film in the early to mid 1960s, my first "infrared period". At the time it was considered only somewhat grainy, as the comparison was Plus-X and the old Tri-X, which were quite a bit "grainier" than similar speed modern B&W film stocks. I didn't shoot a lot of rolls, and my subjects were quite derivative, wooded landscapes and seascapes with lots of cumulus clouds. The infrared novelty wore off fast at the time, mainly because printing 11 x14 inch cropped prints from 35mm, and the occasional 16x 20, was hard enough without the sharpness and grain issues. (The standards of the day did not accept a place for creative grain.) The one impact I see from the passage of time and film expiration here is that the relatively poor dark shadow detail inherent in infrared film generally is going to be exacerbated by the heavy base fog you are getting from the film aging, i.e., inky black shadows.
You can actually load this stuff with a blue LED safelight if you are careful. Useful for cameras that cannot be blind-loaded such as some swing-lens cameeras.
That's very interesting to know, thank you!
some people say those pesky DX code readers can effect High speed IR Film fogging - dont think I will ever get my hands on a roll like this if it is so expensive now.
Depends on the camera! Every camera I own that can read DX codes uses metal pins to read conductivity, rather than using optics. No risk of fogging.
@@Shaka1277 yea I was misinformed the darkroom article I had found online on further research it seems to be a few Canon cameras use led sensors for counting sprockets, it seems I may not have been the only person that had this misconception. Some one should really get that article corrected as it is quite prominent and I came across it while researching shooting Ir film. That ir film you are shooting might be good for trichroming due to it working with red filter and fast shutterspeeds less movement between shots. Thst is my next project to try.
gonna shoot a roll of this on my Rollei 35 with a 1000nm IR filter. wish me luck
1 micron? You need more than luck. Which pantheon should I make a sacrifice to?
I found this film for $3 / exp 1998 in my local marketplace, and im quite scared to use it since im might screw it up lolz
It's expired and only getting worse. Shoot it! My latest roll was from a different batch and fogged to all hell but it was better than no pics :)