That 80's black hammer is what I always wanted to throw in my youth.. Thanks for the video. I'm starting to understand this bowling ball business on surface.
I have the Faball enterprise blue hammer with blue pin and white logos and the faball enterprise blue pearl hammer urethane and I think they are at 78 hardness because no matter how dry the lanes are and no matter how hard I hit it at the bottom of the swing they don't do the urethane motion.
I really enjoy your presentations - Calling them videos is definitely not appropriate for the level of training and attention you put into them - Thank you
I wonder how hard the old faball hammer black would test. Some people say it was from 78-80 hardness. It would be cool if the older ones that tested at 78+ hardness after all this time.
THE Title "The Future of Urethane Bowling Balls is Here". is reminisent of the mid 1980s. Had the Black Hammer, Columbia Udot and the Angles Black Blue and Gold
Reminder that the lower the grit on the ball the quicker it'll lose that surface. 500 grit becomes "not 500 grit" within one night of league 4000 grit polished becomes "pretty much still 4000" for like a month.
That's not entirely true. It depends on the substrate used to apply the surface and at what grit. The 120 grit ball will hold it for quite some time due to the material used to cut the ball. I do appreciate the spirit of your post.
@@Ctdbowling would be interesting to test his theory with some real numbers. Sand a ball 500 and see how quickly it changes shot to shot. You'd think you have a curved line of surface delta per shot and the lower the sanding the faster that changes until it begins to decrease the deltas as it approaches that ~4500 mark.
I used to make my 600 grit on my weaker urethanes last longer by putting 180 grit below before applying the 600 on top. Made the surface last whole 6 games blocks with no issue lol
@@ArsenalBowler the real question is what was the surface after 6 games. Historically CTD has said a ball's surface levels off at 4500 in 6-9 games, is this statement changing is the real question.
my 78d hooks way too much! i drilled it the weakest layout in the 2ls system. i throw about 14.5 mph with about 300 rev rate. any suggestions to help me calm the ball down?
Make a product that gets the oil completely off the urethane cover.. that way it reacts the same way every shot like the first shot. Ur a chemist u can think this up..
Good video! 2 questions... 1- Does an old blue faball hammer can keep the performance nowadays??? 2- what about that storm natural pearl? It was also a urethane pearl.
@@Ctdbowling thank you for your answer! It would be great to compare the new hammer urethane pearl to the storm one, to give us a feedback on both cases and how the ages change or not the hardness and if it is a urethane or not. I have one natural pearl and maybe I guess it is real urethane because y leave a little oil on it and it doesn't get absorbed on the next hours.
Good video. We used to start a screen or 120 when resurfacing Urethanes back in the day. However, we'd take them to 320. Usually just step to 320. I notice you are leaving it at 120. is that because you think you need that much "grit" or because the 120 might hold up longer than 320? Just curious.
I thought the Nu Blue looked a lot like the Purple Reactive. Sure enough, they have the same diff and RG (for a 15 lb. ball). When my purple urethane is no longer 'legal' in league, I may opt for the purple reactive instead of looking at the Nu Blue. Any thoughts (I'm lower speed, med. revs)?
From what I have seen, the purple reactive has a little stronger cover than the NU blue. The NU blue looks like a slightly tamer purple reactive to get closer to the shape of the purple urethane. Go with the blue if you need to replace the purple urethane. Go with the purple reactive if you want a little more back-end pop than the purple urethane.
That 80's black hammer is what I always wanted to throw in my youth.. Thanks for the video. I'm starting to understand this bowling ball business on surface.
I have the Faball enterprise blue hammer with blue pin and white logos and the faball enterprise blue pearl hammer urethane and I think they are at 78 hardness because no matter how dry the lanes are and no matter how hard I hit it at the bottom of the swing they don't do the urethane motion.
I love the faballs
Glad we could help
Great info. I just picked up the NU Blue and the Black Peral. I threw the Red and the Blue Hammers in the 80s and 90s. Loved them..
I really enjoy your presentations - Calling them videos is definitely not appropriate for the level of training and attention you put into them - Thank you
Thank you for watching
Back in the 80s-90s, remember the ball cleaning machine, lol
Absolutely 🤣🤣
My center still has one
That Outside line is Money!
It worked well for sure.
Awesome video, boss!
Appreciate it!
You must have great connections still to get one of these already. Thought only the PBA guys were getting them at the moment.
Good information as usual!
Glad it was helpful!
You know you are old when you thought "oh yeah" when he grabbed the 120 grit. Used to keep my thunderbolt dual block at that grit.
Wow, 120 grit. I never would have thought.
I wonder how hard the old faball hammer black would test. Some people say it was from 78-80 hardness. It would be cool if the older ones that tested at 78+ hardness after all this time.
THE Title "The Future of Urethane Bowling Balls is Here". is reminisent of the mid 1980s. Had the Black Hammer, Columbia Udot and the Angles Black Blue and Gold
It sure is
I would love to see different surfaces on the iq78u. Will it get better at those lower heavy grit surfaces? Very curious!
Nice video what's the hardness on a Faball Pink Hammer Ron
Reminder that the lower the grit on the ball the quicker it'll lose that surface.
500 grit becomes "not 500 grit" within one night of league
4000 grit polished becomes "pretty much still 4000" for like a month.
That's not entirely true. It depends on the substrate used to apply the surface and at what grit. The 120 grit ball will hold it for quite some time due to the material used to cut the ball. I do appreciate the spirit of your post.
@@Ctdbowling would be interesting to test his theory with some real numbers. Sand a ball 500 and see how quickly it changes shot to shot. You'd think you have a curved line of surface delta per shot and the lower the sanding the faster that changes until it begins to decrease the deltas as it approaches that ~4500 mark.
I used to make my 600 grit on my weaker urethanes last longer by putting 180 grit below before applying the 600 on top. Made the surface last whole 6 games blocks with no issue lol
@@ArsenalBowler the real question is what was the surface after 6 games. Historically CTD has said a ball's surface levels off at 4500 in 6-9 games, is this statement changing is the real question.
Funny, rolls and hits like the angle. Bet you can do the same with the AMF! Why is bowling going backwards!
I'm not too old for the Ultra Angle. Dubbed, "the only ball ever made to wobble". I believe it was the first ball that flared when drilled properly.
Hammer needs go comeout with the pink hammer urethane again. Same color and finish at 78+ d hardness.
my 78d hooks way too much! i drilled it the weakest layout in the 2ls system. i throw about 14.5 mph with about 300 rev rate. any suggestions to help me calm the ball down?
When does that ball come out
Make a product that gets the oil completely off the urethane cover.. that way it reacts the same way every shot like the first shot. Ur a chemist u can think this up..
You can bowl on one you can bowl on 52 Bar open?
good video but 2 different styles of bowlers?
Yes we will launch the 2nd of 3 videos this week.
Cool video, but random question: was that an extra thick BAM pad? It seemed to have additional padding in it
It's a new product coming soon
@@Ctdbowling awesome. I'll look forward to it's release
Good video!
2 questions...
1- Does an old blue faball hammer can keep the performance nowadays???
2- what about that storm natural pearl?
It was also a urethane pearl.
1.yes
2. I'm not 100% sure if that was plasticized or not. If we ever get one to test we sure will.
@@Ctdbowling thank you for your answer!
It would be great to compare the new hammer urethane pearl to the storm one, to give us a feedback on both cases and how the ages change or not the hardness and if it is a urethane or not.
I have one natural pearl and maybe I guess it is real urethane because y leave a little oil on it and it doesn't get absorbed on the next hours.
I have a Storm Super Natural.
The Nike shirts is clean
Thanks!
@@Ctdbowling I recently received my ctd staff patches are they iron on?
@@Jdbreal299yes, they’re iron on.
Good video. We used to start a screen or 120 when resurfacing Urethanes back in the day. However, we'd take them to 320. Usually just step to 320. I notice you are leaving it at 120. is that because you think you need that much "grit" or because the 120 might hold up longer than 320? Just curious.
Both, needed and it will hold up longer.
I thought the Nu Blue looked a lot like the Purple Reactive. Sure enough, they have the same diff and RG (for a 15 lb. ball). When my purple urethane is no longer 'legal' in league, I may opt for the purple reactive instead of looking at the Nu Blue. Any thoughts (I'm lower speed, med. revs)?
From what I have seen, the purple reactive has a little stronger cover than the NU blue. The NU blue looks like a slightly tamer purple reactive to get closer to the shape of the purple urethane. Go with the blue if you need to replace the purple urethane. Go with the purple reactive if you want a little more back-end pop than the purple urethane.
Would those changes be legal by usbc
As long as they are done before or after competition, yes.
Wasn’t all the headlines for the 78u “the future of urethane is here”
No, it was your guide to urethane bowling balls.
@@Ctdbowling I mean all the other people’s reviews
380 rev rate… wow! Go Ron!
I was definitely wanting to see that 80 grit on there 😂
Lol, thanks
Cool video talk tech bowling ball Ron hickland
Thank you for watching
@@Ctdbowling your welcome