Filter Lock Magnetic Filter Seal: geni.us/7V2W 3M Filtrete 1085 (MERV 11): geni.us/71H5xCF 3M Filtrete 1900 (MERV 13): geni.us/JoYdI DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Universal HVAC guy here, for some 20 years now I've been using painters tape and I keep a small sharpie near my filters. The painters tape is great for sealing up gaps and doesn't leave a residue and I also keep a strip of painters tape on the front panel and write down the date of every filter change. Painters tape is very cheap and removable. Also, when you remove the painters tape it pulls out my filter when I lift the tape off.
Hey, I’m no HVAC expert but just my two cents worth. I use good old-fashioned duct tape every single time and have for years. You pull the duct tape off and it often helps pull the filter out which has to come out anyway. Put the filter back in rip another 18 inch stretch of duct tape bang it on there and voilà all done.
Oh man, first time homeowner (and AC owner) and this video was a life saver. It's the most visually clear and detailed explanation of something so aggravating simple! Big thanks.
don't listen to it. those high merv filters are bad for hvac systems unless you have a thick filter more than 1in. honestly idk why they even sell them.
you don't want to use anything higher than a merv 8 furnace filter. If you do you can burn up your blower motor or cause it to shut down to the point that it won't blow air at all. We had our furnace quit working in the middle of winter a year ago and had to call a repairman because we didn't know how to get it going again. They came and told us that the blower motor had a feature that shut down the blower so it wouldn't burn up the motor. They told us to never use a merv 13 filter. They said to only use a merv 8 furnace filter or less. otherwise you will end up having to replace the blower motor. Just an fyi
As a retired HVAC industry professional, I wholeheartedly agree and congratulate you on your excellent, accurate video. There are other issues as well, but are beyond the scope of your video. Proper air duct sizing has become a lost skill in the trade. The return air duct should be sized by the volume of air AT a LOWER velocity so the air filter can catch the airborne particulates. Like a bullet, the higher the velocity, the easier it penetrates or passes thru an obstacle, in this scenario, a filter. Secondly, the square throat on the return duct (where you see the sheet metal makes a 90 degree turn towards to furnace) is a big problem as it creates great turbulence/ pressure drop there and thru actually cuts down the amount of of air moving. Example: if you have ever removed a filter and noticed a part of it was totally clean while the other half or three quarters was very dirty THERE IS the PROOF the little to no air was moving thru the filter at that point. That SQUARE THROAT is the reason. Google proper air duct fittings design and see. Thank you for reading this.
I’ve done commercial HVAC work for about 40 years, 33 with my own company. Restaurant hood (ecology unit) and even clean rooms. Every home I’ve owned is a 4” MERV 8 filter/ filter rack and change it 4 times a year. You will get cleaner air, reduce energy bill because your fan has less restriction. You won’t clog up you AC coil. Save a lot of money in the long run and better health, less dust. PS I change it 4 time a year because I have the fan run constantly. If you don’t, twice a year.
I've heard that, when it comes to MERV rating, lower is better so your furnace doesn't have to work as hard to move air. I recently changed from 11 to 5 on my MERV, so I'm hoping to save some years on my system. BUT, thanks so much for the recommendation of the filter seal. I will order one today as I've struggled as to what to do for a while. I had a furnace guy tell me not to worry about it, but I always have. Thanks!
I did a bunch of research and the Filtrete 1900 is what I went with too. I wish I would have seen this video sooner! The 1900 has better airflow than all the other lower MERV Filtrete filters due to that extra surface area you talked about. So it’s not a safe assumption that just because a filter has a lower MERV that it has better airflow.
This is good information for sealing a certain part of the HVAC system. I went a step further and used mastic on the seams of the HVAC unit, metal ducting and inside the vents in each room. Additionally using expanding foam to seal around each vent and using a metal foam delivering gun to minimize expansion. Cost me less than $70 and if you can paint, you can apply mastic. I use a 5 inch merve 8 filter, and my Goodman HVAC is coming up to 24 years old with no issues with annual servicing. I run an average stand alone air cleaner in my bedroom and one in the main area of our house, 24/7, and it costs pennies per day. Dust and airborne particles are virtually non existant in our house, even when we open up the windows during the day in fair weather, which is about 8 months out of the year in Southern California.
As a first time homeowner…..I can not thank you enough for this video. I was having poor cooling issues with my hvac system and it turns out….my system was pulling in air from all around the filter (poor return vent flow) after sealing around the filter….I’m now getting good airflow throughout my house thanks to this one little trick. Thank you so much!
Finally a video on an open slot where the filter goes. I kept looking for a door or face to open to look for a filter but instead there's that open slot in the back where a filter SHOULD be but is not. After living here more than 2 years apparently WITHOUT a filter in place. The a/c has always worked well but the unbelievable dust in my house, especially the bedroom was too much. . Thanks to this video I may be able to fix my situation
Most bedroom dust is actually skin cells from your dry skin and has little to do with HVAC filtration. I too wondered for years why the bedroom was so dusty. Now I know it was just food for mites. A room filter helps only a little since we don’t close our bedroom door at night and the HVAC runs anyway to circulate air through the house. Only solution is to vacuum and dust weekly if you want to keep it looking clean.
So that's why the furnace installers tried to fashion a cover for this gap with extra sheet metal! I had no idea it was so critical. Ordered the covers, thank you!
I figured this out about a year ago because we kept getting dust every other day. I was told if I didn't figure out a solution I'd be the one dusting. I tried some 2" wide masking tape and thankfully it worked. It really does help keep the dust in the basement. Thanks for another great tip.
66lwmorgan: Thanks. I was wondering about just using duct tape, though masking tape sounds much better re not leaving a bunch of glue residue. I have one of those customer made things (now I know what it's actually doing), but it doesn't fit that well and is kind of a hassle, so I will look at better solutions like that filter seal or wide masking tape.
With 60 year old ductwork and a 20 year old furnace we've used the cheap filters and change them every month. Never go over a MERV 5 unless you need a sterile environment. The higher the MERV rating the harder your fan will have to work. That's what I was told! 👍
Great tips! It's amazing how many homeowners don't have a clue. My neighbor didn't change her filter for 4 years.😳 I almost couldn't get the filter out. They didn't know you have to descale the tankless hot water heater as well. It's people like that, that don't maintain their cars also. Just subscribed, looking forward to seeing your other content.
We have a gas water heater that is making a lot of noise when using hot water, just learned it should be drain yearly but the manual comes with the system doesn’t even mention it.
Don't use tape. It can get sucked in. A Cardboard strip, horizontal along the length of the compartment, with a vertical strip hanging over the filter slot works fine.
The main purpose of the filter is to reduce dust from clogging the evaporator coil (if present). If you want to clean, filter and disinfect the air for YOUR benefit, you should install a HEPA filter and ultra-violet light. I always suggest homeowners get filters that are no more restrictive than MERV 8 ($5/each) and change them every month.
I swapped exactly this 100% - got the ultra violet light, went down to low merv filters changed every month, and setup multiple HEPA air filtration systems throughout the house. Two other important things: (1) keep the house clean - vacuum and kick up the dust / pollen so it can be caught / filtered. (2) convert away from carpet as much as possible (if possible).
@@america1403 I'm a male and I had no clue, so don't feel it's just because of that! I had mine professionally installed and it is just after the blower/system. so the return air comes through the HVAC filter, into the system, then heads back up, the ultraviolet light is put right where the air is leaving the blower/system area. hopefully I'm explaining this right. In this way, the air is filtered some as it passes through the system, the system blows up and through the UV light and cleans the air somewhat as it goes back through the house.
This is a wonderfully done video! He is clear and concise in his explanation and gives not the slightest indication of talking 'down' to the viewer. He seems an authentic and kind individual and I am inclined to check out his other videos...Bravo!
I sold filters among other things for 8 years and I always told folks basic is the way to go.The filter is not for you it's for the unit.Less carpet in your home more often you should change it ,you would be surprised how much dust it holds.Also tape around the frame of filter to help it seal,and if you're like me with a 20×40 return and have to use 2 filters seal the center.I change mine every 30days,and have a purifier in every room of house due to having pets.
Finally, a straight answer with a great explanation! Seriously, after years of wondering and worrying about this I now get it thanks to your video. I have the same system with the same issues. I use Filtrete 1900 with MERV 13 it makes a big difference. There is much to consider, pets, carpeting, vacuuming, moving furniture and odd jobs being done around home all make a difference in the air quality. Thank you again for this well done video!
If your buying on line there is a way to drop the cost of filters buy buying them in a box of ten or twenty at a time and it about half's the cost, set the change of the filter on your phone.
My heating and air guy recommended I use the lower Mervyn filter with my unit. I don't recall the specifics other than better air flow for my setup. There is a gap, and sometimes I hear the filter bang when the air is sucked through. I have a dusty old basement even though I do keep an air purifier running 24/7. Anyway, I am ordering this air lock! Thanks for this tip.
My furnace was having trouble lighting as it was struggling for air at the igniter. Furnace has started more reliably since going with lower MERV fiberglass filter. I was surprised at how much dust and other larger particles were captured. I expected house to be dustier with more transparent filter. It was the same or not noticeable. Saves $$$.
@@MikeHillenbrand-z3wwell, HOPEFULLY that’s just by chance, because your furnace absolutely should NOT be using your indoor air as combustion air. Your combustion system is a sealed system that is ducted directly with the outdoors. If there is any sort of leak within that combustion system you’re likely to begin getting error codes on your furnace, and it’s also a good way to get carbon monoxide poisoning.
The furnace filter isn’t meant to filter the air in your home. They make systems for that. It’s to keep large particles from going through your furnace/AC. If you restrict the return air too much, it can cause issues with your cooling coil and furnace.
I use cheapest 3M filter (3-pack from Lowes)...every 6 weeks...and I run the fan 24/7 to better keep the mix/temp consistent across all three levels. Just replaced my Trane indoor/outdoor units....lasted 25 years! I also tape up the open areas (gap) around the filter to improve pressure/flow on other levels as I have two huge returns in the basement already. Nice vid!
I ordered my filters from Home Depot merv 8 and a great price. My home is two years old with a high efficiency carrier system. I change mine every eight weeks. No problems. My unit has a door for filter access and works well. All instructions are clearly spelled out on the return ductwork for correct filter replacement.
excellent video - one thing that is different from what I was told by my hvac person who does the routine inspections is that he said the higher the merv, the hard the unit has to work to pull the air through, and he said that the recommended level was 8 (for my unit) instead of 13 for best efficiency and longevity of the system. but when I thought about it it made sense - the strongest filter and the smallest holes and would let hardly anything through and would take more effort to pull the air though it. like if you put a sheet of glass there it would block 100% or everything, including air, and nothing there would let all the air through and block nothing, so there should be a balance I suppose.
That's true but his point about more pleats meaning more surface area is important. You can build a merv 13 that has less pressure drop than a same size merv 11 if it has more pleats per inch. The air is going to pass thru the media perpendicular to the surface so the more surface area the more opportunities for air to "squeeze" through. If your sheet of glass has one little hole per square foot, the more square feet the more total hole area and the more air can go through. Same reason why a two inch pleated filter has less pressure drop than a 1 inch.
I have that exact HVAC model! When the blower comes on, the filter is pulled tightly against the frame, so the "gap" is only on the return side, thus all air goes thru the filter element!
Wow! I never considered that open slot in the filter port. Mine is sealed but not my friend's. Amazon sells those magnetic covers. Thanks for the great video!!
I appreciate the link for the seal. This has bothered me on my furnace. It is also worth noting that the opening may be on both sides. (like mine). I have always pushed the filter against the furnace side, but that was not a solution. Having an AC evaporator makes this more crucial as it acts as a non accessible filter. Mine was plugged solid when I bought my house. Excellent video
Great video! Glad the algorithm worked!! LOL. I have a spring loaded metal cover on mine, which is cool, kind of seals it off better. Although I have thought about putting some painter's tape over the remaining gap... Thanks for the info!!
Good review, thanks! Oh, and nice brick! I went down to a MERV 8 from a MERV 11, we have no pets and I think the MERV 11 was restricting airflow slightly.
Thanks for this video. I've had a gap in front of the furnace filter ever since I bought the house. Just ordered the magnetic covers. Hope they fit cause the filter sticks out about half an inch.
With older systems the merv 8+ filters can burn up your ac system because of the lack of airflow, especially if you only have one air return. It is best to stick with a lower merv rating for better airflow.
Even if it doesn't cause damage to the blower motor, it significantly reduces the heating efficiency. Those high Merv rated filters slow the airflow to a crawl.
I used to use those higher $$ filters but found that they lead to premature plenum warping/cracking as the air doesn’t flow nearly as well through the furnace. Put your hand against the ducting above the heat exchanger when the furnace is running… with a high merv filter you’ll find it to be extremely warm.., even hot… move to a merv 8 (or less) and you’ll see how much cooler the plenum is as the air is moving more freely. I also noticed how much better the air moves around my home with a merv 8, no more cool spots, furnace is on less and less condensation on the windows. I’ll preach to anyone about not using filters above merv 8.
The magnetic seal is a great idea. However, if you are cheap you can use aluminum duct tape or if you don't want to buy that you can use the ever popular duct tape. Throw it away and replace it when you change the filter.
LOL love this setup, all the air can just go in front side and bypass filter. Another big issue I am seeing is zero sealing or checking of leaks. I recently looked at a new install and the return was leaking at every joint, it was a joke. If you don't carry a smoke pen as part of your tool kit shame on you, every installer should be smoke checking post install and then sealing as needed. Time and time again I see people miss the most important step, checking for air leaks, not hard and very important.
Owner of 2 homes in the past 20 years. 1.) Both furnace filters were top down loaded, not side-loaded. Many different configurations in the market. 2.) Both either came with a metal filter box hood (hinged) or the hvac installer handmade one of same sheet metal material as duct work. Same principal as the magnetic skirt or the tape options mentioned.
I just found out one of the HVAC techs I had out MONTHS ago installed my heavy duty filter BACKWARD... and it's been one of the hottest summers ever. What a joke. Hope my system is okay. Finally fixed that issue, hoping it will now run a lot better! Lucky nothing broke, from what I can tell, but that could not have been good. Aprilaire 510 filter too...
I don't think that poll question was worded right. For example, a person who replaces his filter every 6 months might have recently replaced it when he said he last replaced it less than 3 months ago. The correct question should ask how often you replace the filter, not how long it's been since you last replaced it.
Also.... those responding to poll are people who tend to be more aware and concerned about this topic (or they wouldn't be searching for answers on RUclips) and therefore more likely to change filters more often than average person.
With 1" filters, I'd expect way more filter changes are needed per year (4+ possibly). They simply have the least surface area, least filtration and clog much faster. Modern/newer HVAC systems now use filters as wide as 4" that provide much more surface area and better filtration. Many allow much higher MERV rated filters to be used, trapping smaller particles and increasing air purification. I have a MERV 13 rated 4" in my newer HVAC system and have noticed a huge decrease in dust around the house, changing it twice per year. Taping all the duct joints you can, with aluminum backed tape, is also a good thing to do... including the seams at the furnace (you can see some gaps in your video).
Yeah, we have 5” filters in our system. Makes replacing a PIA if trying to find a good deal. And “subscribing” wasn’t an option last time I ordered. Not because they didn’t have it as an option, but because the filters disappeared on Amazon the next time we went to order more. lol
MERV 13 rated 4" filters are not cheap, that is for sure. I think mine run about $45 to $50 each. I also noted that my filters constantly change on Amazon as well and the old purchase links do not work... they are the same make and manufacturer (Aprilaire 413).
Ordered. Thanks for the tip. I knew that gap was an issue but I didn't know a cheap way to fix it. For filters, I have to order a custom size from a filter company.
On my old furnace ( for 30 years ) I just used a long strip of Packing Tape over the filter and the gaps, worked great. On the new furnace I had put in just two years ago it came with a magnetized metal strip made for the gap, it works great too.
DIYer here. Slightly different perspective. I recently upgraded from dental floss to MERV8 filters (!) and decided to STOP taping over my filter edge in order to try to warm up the basement a bit by pulling some return air from the colder basement (no cold air return in basement - probably should be). Bingo ! The basement is now almost the same temp as the main floor (ranch type house). I am of the opinion that a warm basement keeps the main level floor warmer - which is more efficient and more comfortable. Note - I do have registers in the basement. I have not noticed any increase in furnace running time.
So funny watching this video. I just bought 2 of these 4 weeks ago for my daughter and son’s houses. They have been working equally as well for them. Previously I used painters tape on them. Luckily my own furnace came with a filter door. Mine is also 4”’s thick and filters better and for a longer period of time. While the filter is more expensive I can double or triple the lifespan.
Wow! That's what I've been using even though I have a door on the filter compartment. The door is such a poor fit that I run painter's tape to solve any gap problem also. Will consider changing out to the Filter Lock instead!
I liked your presentation. A few things to keep in mind! Furnace filters are not designed to clean the air in our houses. Furnace filters are for keeping the hvac components clean! Also, you should never use any filter better then the cheapies without having a static duct pressure test done. Any filter better then a merv 4 is too restrictive for most hvac systems.
Every HVAC guy I have talked to lately would say no, no, no to anything much over Merv 5. If you need to filter the air that badly... buy an air filtering system don't suffocate your HVAC. The suction from the blower fan really should pull the filter tight to the front of the box. If you have a gap on the furnace side once that blower comes on... then I would suspect that you have a bigger problem at work... bad filter box framing.. or a really bad blower fan. To be honest, as long as you are not pulling excessive warm (during the warmer months) or very dirty air into the system around the box, I think it's pretty much a non-issue. But the filter lock is a nice inexpensive solution to either provide peace of mind and\or solve some issues which might occur in a small amount of scenarios.
Totally agree, I tried one of those Merv13, really restricted the flow, caused the AC unit to not cool properly... I believe the standard recommendation is to go with a media filter unit, those 3" ones, that go up to higher Merv's they do not restrict the flow, and have 10x the amount of material, and last much longer. The cost of the filter itself is lower (per year) and will pay for the upgrade..
I think it depends on the filter. The MERV, the size etc. The 1 inch, seems you should change them more often. I now have a 5 inch, and it says 6-12 months depending on air conditions. I use MERV 10-11 as more than that, seems too restriction on my system. I also have a filter box, which is a box separate from the duck and the furnace which houses the filter. Not sure If i have this because I have the 5 inch filter. When I got my new furnace, the furnace company suggested i install a filter box, but when the did the home inspection, noticed I had one so removed it from the quote and reused my current one.
I'm in a similar boat. Had a new system installed a couple of years ago, and it came with the Aprilaire filter system (got roped into it when I got the system). To be perfectly honest, I miss changing my filter monthly, primarily due to the exhorbitant cost of ther Aprilaire filters (I use a MERV 11 and their about 50 bucks a piece). I run the house fan all the time to keep air circulated but that comes at a price as the filers WON'T last the 6 months they state on the box (more like 4). I also feel that even at a MERV 11, the system works a little too hard to bring air through because of the 4 inch thick pleated filter. If I could turn back the clock, I'd opt for something that allowed me to use a universal filter and NOT one that is proprietary, like the Aprilaire (no generics for this baby).
I have a Nest thermostat. It will tell me when I need to change my filter based on HVAC usage in hours rather than the 3 months calendar. That way, if your system runs often, you will need to change it more often. However, if you don’t use your system that much, you can wait past the 3 months before changing the filter. The Nest will actually email you your monthly usage, how it compares to previous periods and how it compares to your Nest neighborhood. BTW, my furnace has that metal cover, blocking the filter side opening.
That's pretty common for smart thermostats at this point, but definitely a good point. In Texas we only use our furnace a handful of days in the winter and we go much longer without a filter change. IN the summer we have to change it much more frequently. Usually once a month.
I made sure I got a 4 inch filter housing installed when I had my furnace replaced. 16x25x4 and run a MERV 11. The 4 inch depth adds a ton of filter media and I change it every 6 months. I do like that filter lock product for sure. I don't need it, but it's cheaper then replacing the duct work.
Pretty much any tape that can cover the gap will do the same thing. Other thing about this video is the frame on the furnace side of the filter is bent. If it were straight, the negative pressure caused by the blower will suck the filter against the furnace and pretty much seal the gap and cause all the air entering to go through the filter. So, even with your plastic and magnet solution, all that's going to happen behind the plastic is air will now flow around the filter, in the space between the plastic and the filter, and enter through the damaged frame.
I use my furnace for heating only, iv noticed a banging noise & after watching this video , im assuming it because of the dirty filter causing pressure to build in the return air duct ?? Great video !! Thank u
Another method that I use is to install an adhesive backed half round weatherstrip on the duct side of the opening, to take up the excess space and force the filter against the furnace. At some point one might expect the furnace ductwork folks to reduce the size of the filter opening to fit the 3/4" filters instead of 1"". They haven't sold true 1" filters in many moons.
K&n makes a good air filter. I just bought one. Works great. It's a Merv 8 4-in filter and it's a lifetime filter. Just have to clean it every 3 months
I guess I am fortunate. When we upgraded our HVAC system 35 yrs ago, we had an electronic air cleaner added to the system. It still works very well even after two system upgrades.
Agree on the 3M filtrete 1900 - merv 13, but also twice the media as most merv 8's on the market (1,560 sq. in) so they do not clog up fast, or create static pressure build up any faster then the typical merv 8. Oh, but they do collect smaller particulate matter MUCH better than any merv 8 on the market (including particulates from wildfire smoke) - which equates to cleaner coils, less work for your motor etc, and FAR better overall air quality in your home. It's a no brainer. My residential HVAC heating/cooling system (Maytag) is close to 20 yrs old. Other than changing out a pressure switch yrs ago, not a single issue. I change the 3M 1900 every 4-6 weeks in summer, 8 weeks when snow is on the ground.
Let me give you another piece of advice. A 1" thick filter is completely inadequate for the task, because if you use filtrete it's too restrictive and it's gonna kill your furnace, and if you use fiberglass you're not really protecting your evaporator from getting dirty, so what you need to do is have your HVAC contractor modify that filter slot to accept a minimum of a 2" thick filter, which has a greater filtration area, a lower face velocity, and less restriction to the flow of air. Ultimately this saves you money in operational costs and extends the life of your equipment.
Wait until you price them not to mention availability. My Carrier unit came from the factory with the 2 inch option. The price and lack of choices turned me away from them.
@@tumbleweedking5668 In that case you're not looking in the right places, because 99.9% of the equipment that I service on commercial rooftops uses 2" filters, and trust me, they are not paying a lot of money to have me pick up those filters and put them in.
Depends if you are talking about a real electrical powered electrostatic filter which is the best, or the cheap reusable filters they claim are electrostatic. I have been using the K & N washable filter and it is fantastic. It is not electrostatic but saves a ton of money over the long haul.
I use hvac tape to seal it off. It's a little bit of a pain to remove the tape when changing the filter, but at least I know that it's fully sealed with no gaps at all.
Have a filter service indicator installed, worth every penny. I have had customers not install filters and destroy the entire system, unbalanced blower, burned up motor and it’s housing, and super clog the exchanger…, and those who don’t check filters and find the filter sucked into the unit due to load….
I only use up to a merv 8 and change them every month, 2 months at the very most. 👍 One of our properties filter becomes a dark grey after a month, used too high a merv value and it damaged the motor by cutting off the flow. A $10 filter cost me $300 motor replacement!
Great video, thanks for posting. I was changing my 1-inch wide filters every quarter. But when I changed over to the 2-inch wide filters, I was noticing there was no appreciable debris accumulation on them after 3 months... go figure. So now they get changed bi-annually instead. Also, I stick with Merv 8. Less resistance than Merv 12. It seems inefficient to use your heater/ AC unit as an air purifier. A stand-alone unit would be a much better solution for indoor air pollution.
Great information to share! Thought - since you will be removing the seals to change the filter I would suggest marking the one you cut with a sharpie or even electrical tape
If you use a high Merv rated filter it will reduce more than you know. It will make the blower work harder and reduce the life of the motor. It also reduces the amount of airflow going to the vents. If you want zero air flow and a motor burn out....by all means use this advice. The open slot issue can be fixed by using magnetic register covers cut to size.
My unit My filter is under my unit. I’ve always used the higher quality filter. I don’t have return ducts, mine has hole covered by vent. So I’m probably getting air from my house so it doesn’t seem like that isn’t problem. Plus the oily residue is new. So I’m not having a lot of faith in my air conditioner representative but have a contract. I’m a senior widow and finding trusting people a real Challenge!
I think this demo was set up I've never seen the air filter stay in place when the blower motor comes on. It is always pulled tight to the furnace forcing any air coming through that gap to go through the furnace. Further more I think it is a good thing to pull some return from the basement to keep it ventilated as long as you don't create a negative pressure that could negatively effect other gas fired appliances especially natural draft hot water tanks.
Most residential applications don't need 4 filter changes per year simply because the furnace/AC does not run all year round with the exception of those who run their fans continuously for air circulation. For those who must use expensive high dollar filters such as HEPA, consider using a cheaper pre-filter in front of the expensive filter. You'll have to install another filter track to accommodate the pre-filter but it will save you $$$ in the long run. In the commercial HVAC industry where fans tend run 24/7, the pre-filter is changed every 3 months while the more expensive lower micron second filter is changed, once a year.
Had a HVAC guy tell me don’t get the higher rate. It will be clogged up with in a week and just strain the system. If you need the higher filter get one and put it on a box fan in your bedroom. I live in a very dusty area, we have white dust and grey dust. It’s so much fun. Right now in the condo I’m in it has a four inch opening and the filter the landlord left fall over every time it turns on.
That is really a great way to fix the opening. I use two filters to my A/C. One at the air handler which is 5-1/2” thick that I change once a year and the other normal 1” where the air intakes inside the house that I change ones every 3 months. The question is that over kill and would that effect the air flow in the house. Great video as always.
I am thinking about upgrading to a 4” filter by Aprilaire so I can get the higher MERV rating with the lower restriction from the increased surface area. I need to do a bit more investigation but I think my retrofit is fairly straightforward.
Never use 2 filters! 1 at the air handler/furnace only, 2 filters is TOO much! This will cause an air flow restriction and extra strain on the blower motor.
The filter door on our 2002 Carrier air handler is the least of my problems. We bought this 35 yo contemporary in 2012 and while a solid structure, the ductwork must've been someone's middle school project. I'd like to see how a homeowner can snake through remote, buried (wall and floor) ducts to look for leaks and clogs. I have an endoscope and tried with fish tape but couldn't negotiate corners. Somewhere there's either a blockage or leak and the upper back bedrooms get very little air.
I guess every HVAC installer does this differently but this is the first time I have seen a filter with out a cover over it. Where I am, the filters are retained with in a door or cover to prevent leakage.
@@brettzeigerbacher2314 Interesting. I am on house 5, never seen this before. Maybe older home construction is this way. But the product to correct it is cool and something worth noting if I run across such a thing in my area.
@@cgore4 Thats normal in apts. that only have 1 central air return, maybe 2? My house has 1 or 2 return vents in every room. The central return is to save money on the system installation, not a great idea IMO. The best is to have a return air vent on the bottom and the top of the walls. Shut the bottom vent when the A/C is running so you send the warm air at the top to the furnace. Shut the top vent and open the bottom when the heat runs so you send the cooler air at ground level to the furnace.
Your frequency of filter change is dependent on your home and how clean you keep it. I have seen filters filthy in only 1 month, but have also seen filters barely dirty after a year. (this house was super clean) so a calendar date is not necessarily an indication. Also some homes need more often changes in different seasons. Really depends on your circumstances. Best to pull filter and check once a month and see until you get a feel for it. Remember the air conditioning coil becomes your filter if you run without a filter or if your filter is cheap or not properly fitted.
Filter Lock Magnetic Filter Seal: geni.us/7V2W
3M Filtrete 1085 (MERV 11): geni.us/71H5xCF
3M Filtrete 1900 (MERV 13): geni.us/JoYdI
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Universal HVAC guy here, for some 20 years now I've been using painters tape and I keep a small sharpie near my filters. The painters tape is great for sealing up gaps and doesn't leave a residue and I also keep a strip of painters tape on the front panel and write down the date of every filter change. Painters tape is very cheap and removable. Also, when you remove the painters tape it pulls out my filter when I lift the tape off.
Going to try this. Thanks!!
Neat idea, I will try this, thank you for sharing.
But it's harder to add a link and earn a profit from.
Put some tape on it. For the price of the magnetic sealer, you could buy a whole roll of Duct Tape. WTF!
I always used duct tape or painters tape…. Good point though overall….
Hey, I’m no HVAC expert but just my two cents worth. I use good old-fashioned duct tape every single time and have for years. You pull the duct tape off and it often helps pull the filter out which has to come out anyway. Put the filter back in rip another 18 inch stretch of duct tape bang it on there and voilà all done.
That's exactly what I do. 🙂
Or use gaffers tape to avoid sticky residue
Oh man, first time homeowner (and AC owner) and this video was a life saver. It's the most visually clear and detailed explanation of something so aggravating simple! Big thanks.
don't listen to it. those high merv filters are bad for hvac systems unless you have a thick filter more than 1in. honestly idk why they even sell them.
you don't want to use anything higher than a merv 8 furnace filter. If you do you can burn up your blower motor or cause it to shut down to the point that it won't blow air at all. We had our furnace quit working in the middle of winter a year ago and had to call a repairman because we didn't know how to get it going again. They came and told us that the blower motor had a feature that shut down the blower so it wouldn't burn up the motor. They told us to never use a merv 13 filter. They said to only use a merv 8 furnace filter or less. otherwise you will end up having to replace the blower motor. Just an fyi
As a retired HVAC industry professional, I wholeheartedly agree and congratulate you on your excellent, accurate video.
There are other issues as well, but are beyond the scope of your video.
Proper air duct sizing has become a lost skill in the trade. The return air duct should be sized by the volume of air AT a LOWER velocity so the air filter can catch the airborne particulates. Like a bullet, the higher the velocity, the easier it penetrates or passes thru an obstacle, in this scenario, a filter.
Secondly, the square throat on the return duct (where you see the sheet metal makes a 90 degree turn towards to furnace) is a big problem as it creates great turbulence/ pressure drop there and thru actually cuts down the amount of of air moving.
Example: if you have ever removed a filter and noticed a part of it was totally clean while the other half or three quarters was very dirty THERE IS the PROOF the little to no air was moving thru the filter at that point.
That SQUARE THROAT is the reason.
Google proper air duct fittings design and see.
Thank you for reading this.
Thanks for that info, Wayne!
😊 Thank you. Great explanation.
whats the solution?
I’ve done commercial HVAC work for about 40 years, 33 with my own company. Restaurant hood (ecology unit) and even clean rooms. Every home I’ve owned is a 4” MERV 8 filter/ filter rack and change it 4 times a year. You will get cleaner air, reduce energy bill because your fan has less restriction. You won’t clog up you AC coil. Save a lot of money in the long run and better health, less dust. PS I change it 4 time a year because I have the fan run constantly. If you don’t, twice a year.
Dang, I’ve been replacing mine about once a month, usually on the first day.
What’s the model of your 4” merv 8 ? I’ve got a merv13 that I want to bring down the restriction
Yeah it's crazy he recommended Merv 13. He's going to mess up some a coils. Nothing above merv 8
I've heard that, when it comes to MERV rating, lower is better so your furnace doesn't have to work as hard to move air. I recently changed from 11 to 5 on my MERV, so I'm hoping to save some years on my system. BUT, thanks so much for the recommendation of the filter seal. I will order one today as I've struggled as to what to do for a while. I had a furnace guy tell me not to worry about it, but I always have. Thanks!
I did a bunch of research and the Filtrete 1900 is what I went with too. I wish I would have seen this video sooner! The 1900 has better airflow than all the other lower MERV Filtrete filters due to that extra surface area you talked about. So it’s not a safe assumption that just because a filter has a lower MERV that it has better airflow.
I almost didn’t watch this. I’m so glad I did. Solid info and I didn’t care it was 10minutes.
I sped it up to X2. Only 5 mins used
😅
This is good information for sealing a certain part of the HVAC system. I went a step further and used mastic on the seams of the HVAC unit, metal ducting and inside the vents in each room. Additionally using expanding foam to seal around each vent and using a metal foam delivering gun to minimize expansion. Cost me less than $70 and if you can paint, you can apply mastic. I use a 5 inch merve 8 filter, and my Goodman HVAC is coming up to 24 years old with no issues with annual servicing.
I run an average stand alone air cleaner in my bedroom and one in the main area of our house, 24/7, and it costs pennies per day. Dust and airborne particles are virtually non existant in our house, even when we open up the windows during the day in fair weather, which is about 8 months out of the year in Southern California.
Thank you! Our home's filter covers were both mangled by the previous owners and this solution is perfect.
As a first time homeowner…..I can not thank you enough for this video. I was having poor cooling issues with my hvac system and it turns out….my system was pulling in air from all around the filter (poor return vent flow) after sealing around the filter….I’m now getting good airflow throughout my house thanks to this one little trick. Thank you so much!
Finally a video on an open slot where the filter goes. I kept looking for a door or face to open to look for a filter but instead there's that open slot in the back where a filter SHOULD be but is not. After living here more than 2 years apparently WITHOUT a filter in place. The a/c has always worked well but the unbelievable dust in my house, especially the bedroom was too much. . Thanks to this video I may be able to fix my situation
Most bedroom dust is actually skin cells from your dry skin and has little to do with HVAC filtration. I too wondered for years why the bedroom was so dusty. Now I know it was just food for mites. A room filter helps only a little since we don’t close our bedroom door at night and the HVAC runs anyway to circulate air through the house. Only solution is to vacuum and dust weekly if you want to keep it looking clean.
Our new construction home came with a rock catcher, and we switched to a MERV 8 and have been happy ever since.
So that's why the furnace installers tried to fashion a cover for this gap with extra sheet metal! I had no idea it was so critical. Ordered the covers, thank you!
I figured this out about a year ago because we kept getting dust every other day. I was told if I didn't figure out a solution I'd be the one dusting. I tried some 2" wide masking tape and thankfully it worked. It really does help keep the dust in the basement. Thanks for another great tip.
66lwmorgan: Thanks. I was wondering about just using duct tape, though masking tape sounds much better re not leaving a bunch of glue residue.
I have one of those customer made things (now I know what it's actually doing), but it doesn't fit that well and is kind of a hassle, so I will look at better solutions like that filter seal or wide masking tape.
@@rogergeyer9851 Thanks Roger, it definitely makes a difference, at least at my place. Have a good week and stay safe.
@@rogergeyer98513m Cold weather foil tape from Lowe’s or Home Depot. No residue and perfect seal, easy to reuse or replace.
With 60 year old ductwork and a 20 year old furnace we've used the cheap filters and change them every month. Never go over a MERV 5 unless you need a sterile environment. The higher the MERV rating the harder your fan will have to work. That's what I was told! 👍
Great tips! It's amazing how many homeowners don't have a clue. My neighbor didn't change her filter for 4 years.😳 I almost couldn't get the filter out. They didn't know you have to descale the tankless hot water heater as well. It's people like that, that don't maintain their cars also. Just subscribed, looking forward to seeing your other content.
We have a gas water heater that is making a lot of noise when using hot water, just learned it should be drain yearly but the manual comes with the system doesn’t even mention it.
And that's the reason for the after market market.
I used blue painters tape in the wide width. Cheap, efficient and I mark the date with a black sharpie.
Good suggestion. I’ll try that too
Don't use tape. It can get sucked in. A Cardboard strip, horizontal along the length of the compartment, with a vertical strip hanging over the filter slot works fine.
I do the same, a strip of cardboard and a bit of tape top and bottom and that's it,.simple and effective..
The main purpose of the filter is to reduce dust from clogging the evaporator coil (if present). If you want to clean, filter and disinfect the air for YOUR benefit, you should install a HEPA filter and ultra-violet light. I always suggest homeowners get filters that are no more restrictive than MERV 8 ($5/each) and change them every month.
I agree with all of these points
I swapped exactly this 100% - got the ultra violet light, went down to low merv filters changed every month, and setup multiple HEPA air filtration systems throughout the house. Two other important things: (1) keep the house clean - vacuum and kick up the dust / pollen so it can be caught / filtered. (2) convert away from carpet as much as possible (if possible).
@@officiallyfussy Where do you put your ultraviolet light? Is it on the air system? Sorry, I'm a female so don't know how it works
Where and How do u install an ultraviolet light??
@@america1403 I'm a male and I had no clue, so don't feel it's just because of that! I had mine professionally installed and it is just after the blower/system. so the return air comes through the HVAC filter, into the system, then heads back up, the ultraviolet light is put right where the air is leaving the blower/system area. hopefully I'm explaining this right. In this way, the air is filtered some as it passes through the system, the system blows up and through the UV light and cleans the air somewhat as it goes back through the house.
Great video, just replaced mine and feel 100% better already.
This is a wonderfully done video! He is clear and concise in his explanation and gives not the slightest indication of talking 'down' to the viewer. He seems an authentic and kind individual and I am inclined to check out his other videos...Bravo!
I sold filters among other things for 8 years and I always told folks basic is the way to go.The filter is not for you it's for the unit.Less carpet in your home more often you should change it ,you would be surprised how much dust it holds.Also tape around the frame of filter to help it seal,and if you're like me with a 20×40 return and have to use 2 filters seal the center.I change mine every 30days,and have a purifier in every room of house due to having pets.
Finally, a straight answer with a great explanation! Seriously, after years of wondering and worrying about this I now get it thanks to your video. I have the same system with the same issues. I use Filtrete 1900 with MERV 13 it makes a big difference. There is much to consider, pets, carpeting, vacuuming, moving furniture and odd jobs being done around home all make a difference in the air quality. Thank you again for this well done video!
If your buying on line there is a way to drop the cost of filters buy buying them in a box of ten or twenty at a time and it about half's the cost, set the change of the filter on your phone.
Great idea
My heating and air guy recommended I use the lower Mervyn filter with my unit. I don't recall the specifics other than better air flow for my setup. There is a gap, and sometimes I hear the filter bang when the air is sucked through. I have a dusty old basement even though I do keep an air purifier running 24/7. Anyway, I am ordering this air lock! Thanks for this tip.
My furnace was having trouble lighting as it was struggling for air at the igniter. Furnace has started more reliably since going with lower MERV fiberglass filter. I was surprised at how much dust and other larger particles were captured. I expected house to be dustier with more transparent filter. It was the same or not noticeable. Saves $$$.
@@MikeHillenbrand-z3wwell, HOPEFULLY that’s just by chance, because your furnace absolutely should NOT be using your indoor air as combustion air. Your combustion system is a sealed system that is ducted directly with the outdoors.
If there is any sort of leak within that combustion system you’re likely to begin getting error codes on your furnace, and it’s also a good way to get carbon monoxide poisoning.
The furnace filter isn’t meant to filter the air in your home. They make systems for that. It’s to keep large particles from going through your furnace/AC. If you restrict the return air too much, it can cause issues with your cooling coil and furnace.
I use cheapest 3M filter (3-pack from Lowes)...every 6 weeks...and I run the fan 24/7 to better keep the mix/temp consistent across all three levels. Just replaced my Trane indoor/outdoor units....lasted 25 years! I also tape up the open areas (gap) around the filter to improve pressure/flow on other levels as I have two huge returns in the basement already. Nice vid!
Cheapest pleated paper filter I hope. The fibreglass ones are just too cheap. I do cheap paper merv8 and replace monthly.
I ordered my filters from Home Depot merv 8 and a great price. My home is two years old with a high efficiency carrier system. I change mine every eight weeks. No problems. My unit has a door for filter access and works well. All instructions are clearly spelled out on the return ductwork for correct filter replacement.
excellent video - one thing that is different from what I was told by my hvac person who does the routine inspections is that he said the higher the merv, the hard the unit has to work to pull the air through, and he said that the recommended level was 8 (for my unit) instead of 13 for best efficiency and longevity of the system. but when I thought about it it made sense - the strongest filter and the smallest holes and would let hardly anything through and would take more effort to pull the air though it. like if you put a sheet of glass there it would block 100% or everything, including air, and nothing there would let all the air through and block nothing, so there should be a balance I suppose.
That's true but his point about more pleats meaning more surface area is important. You can build a merv 13 that has less pressure drop than a same size merv 11 if it has more pleats per inch. The air is going to pass thru the media perpendicular to the surface so the more surface area the more opportunities for air to "squeeze" through. If your sheet of glass has one little hole per square foot, the more square feet the more total hole area and the more air can go through. Same reason why a two inch pleated filter has less pressure drop than a 1 inch.
I have that exact HVAC model! When the blower comes on, the filter is pulled tightly against the frame, so the "gap" is only on the return side, thus all air goes thru the filter element!
Thanks so much for this video. I formed a cover from a slightly-damaged magnetic return-vent cover I had laying around. Works great!
Nice!
I like that brick and a support for the furnace
Wow! I never considered that open slot in the filter port. Mine is sealed but not my friend's. Amazon sells those magnetic covers. Thanks for the great video!!
I appreciate the link for the seal. This has bothered me on my furnace. It is also worth noting that the opening may be on both sides. (like mine). I have always pushed the filter against the furnace side, but that was not a solution.
Having an AC evaporator makes this more crucial as it acts as a non accessible filter. Mine was plugged solid when I bought my house. Excellent video
Great video! Glad the algorithm worked!! LOL. I have a spring loaded metal cover on mine, which is cool, kind of seals it off better. Although I have thought about putting some painter's tape over the remaining gap... Thanks for the info!!
Two great tips in one video. Didn't know you could schedule furnace filter through Amazon, and I'm definitely buying the Filter Lock.
Good review, thanks! Oh, and nice brick! I went down to a MERV 8 from a MERV 11, we have no pets and I think the MERV 11 was restricting airflow slightly.
Thanks for this video. I've had a gap in front of the furnace filter ever since I bought the house. Just ordered the magnetic covers. Hope they fit cause the filter sticks out about half an inch.
With older systems the merv 8+ filters can burn up your ac system because of the lack of airflow, especially if you only have one air return. It is best to stick with a lower merv rating for better airflow.
Even if it doesn't cause damage to the blower motor, it significantly reduces the heating efficiency.
Those high Merv rated filters slow the airflow to a crawl.
The actual reason for this filter is to protect the blower motor from large particles, not to clean the air. Marketing BS.
My buddy who works TRANE said the exact thing. Get the thinner ones and replace more often
Without simple static measurements…..Everyone here is guessing😎
How old would you consider an older system to be?
I used to use those higher $$ filters but found that they lead to premature plenum warping/cracking as the air doesn’t flow nearly as well through the furnace. Put your hand against the ducting above the heat exchanger when the furnace is running… with a high merv filter you’ll find it to be extremely warm.., even hot… move to a merv 8 (or less) and you’ll see how much cooler the plenum is as the air is moving more freely. I also noticed how much better the air moves around my home with a merv 8, no more cool spots, furnace is on less and less condensation on the windows. I’ll preach to anyone about not using filters above merv 8.
The magnetic seal is a great idea. However, if you are cheap you can use aluminum duct tape or if you don't want to buy that you can use the ever popular duct tape. Throw it away and replace it when you change the filter.
LOL love this setup, all the air can just go in front side and bypass filter. Another big issue I am seeing is zero sealing or checking of leaks. I recently looked at a new install and the return was leaking at every joint, it was a joke. If you don't carry a smoke pen as part of your tool kit shame on you, every installer should be smoke checking post install and then sealing as needed.
Time and time again I see people miss the most important step, checking for air leaks, not hard and very important.
I upgraded my system to a 2" filter merv. 11 I love it. Change it ever 6 months and it still looks like it could keep going.
Owner of 2 homes in the past 20 years.
1.) Both furnace filters were top down loaded, not side-loaded. Many different configurations in the market.
2.) Both either came with a metal filter box hood (hinged) or the hvac installer handmade one of same sheet metal material as duct work. Same principal as the magnetic skirt or the tape options mentioned.
I just found out one of the HVAC techs I had out MONTHS ago installed my heavy duty filter BACKWARD... and it's been one of the hottest summers ever. What a joke. Hope my system is okay. Finally fixed that issue, hoping it will now run a lot better! Lucky nothing broke, from what I can tell, but that could not have been good. Aprilaire 510 filter too...
Thanks for taking the time to make me aware of the leaks and scheduling 👍🏽
It also causes a negative pressure in the furnace room. You can end up with a back draft on any other gas appliances in the room.
Good point, thanks Scott.
Heh-heh, I adding to my reply that this could be an issue before I read your far more succinctly written comment.
I don't think that poll question was worded right. For example, a person who replaces his filter every 6 months might have recently replaced it when he said he last replaced it less than 3 months ago. The correct question should ask how often you replace the filter, not how long it's been since you last replaced it.
Also.... those responding to poll are people who tend to be more aware and concerned about this topic (or they wouldn't be searching for answers on RUclips) and therefore more likely to change filters more often than average person.
With 1" filters, I'd expect way more filter changes are needed per year (4+ possibly). They simply have the least surface area, least filtration and clog much faster. Modern/newer HVAC systems now use filters as wide as 4" that provide much more surface area and better filtration. Many allow much higher MERV rated filters to be used, trapping smaller particles and increasing air purification. I have a MERV 13 rated 4" in my newer HVAC system and have noticed a huge decrease in dust around the house, changing it twice per year. Taping all the duct joints you can, with aluminum backed tape, is also a good thing to do... including the seams at the furnace (you can see some gaps in your video).
^^ this. Media cabinet FTW. High MERV and low restriction. Plus only change filter 2x / yr.
Yeah, we have 5” filters in our system. Makes replacing a PIA if trying to find a good deal. And “subscribing” wasn’t an option last time I ordered. Not because they didn’t have it as an option, but because the filters disappeared on Amazon the next time we went to order more. lol
MERV 13 rated 4" filters are not cheap, that is for sure. I think mine run about $45 to $50 each. I also noted that my filters constantly change on Amazon as well and the old purchase links do not work... they are the same make and manufacturer (Aprilaire 413).
Just bought Filter Lock . They (makers of Filter Lock) should pay you for this.😊
Ordered. Thanks for the tip. I knew that gap was an issue but I didn't know a cheap way to fix it. For filters, I have to order a custom size from a filter company.
Happy to help!
On my old furnace ( for 30 years ) I just used a long strip of Packing Tape over the filter and the gaps, worked great. On the new furnace I had put in just two years ago it came with a magnetized metal strip made for the gap, it works great too.
DIYer here. Slightly different perspective. I recently upgraded from dental floss to MERV8 filters (!) and decided to STOP taping over my filter edge in order to try to warm up the basement a bit by pulling some return air from the colder basement (no cold air return in basement - probably should be). Bingo ! The basement is now almost the same temp as the main floor (ranch type house). I am of the opinion that a warm basement keeps the main level floor warmer - which is more efficient and more comfortable. Note - I do have registers in the basement. I have not noticed any increase in furnace running time.
Thanks for posting this informative video. I've been using a good quality duct tape for years with no problems.
Just did this thanks for the cutting tip never thought of that new to taking care of home
So funny watching this video. I just bought 2 of these 4 weeks ago for my daughter and son’s houses. They have been working equally as well for them. Previously I used painters tape on them. Luckily my own furnace came with a filter door. Mine is also 4”’s thick and filters better and for a longer period of time. While the filter is more expensive I can double or triple the lifespan.
Wow! That's what I've been using even though I have a door on the filter compartment. The door is such a poor fit that I run painter's tape to solve any gap problem also. Will consider changing out to the Filter Lock instead!
I liked your presentation. A few things to keep in mind! Furnace filters are not designed to clean the air in our houses. Furnace filters are for keeping the hvac components clean! Also, you should never use any filter better then the cheapies without having a static duct pressure test done. Any filter better then a merv 4 is too restrictive for most hvac systems.
Above 10 .
Every HVAC guy I have talked to lately would say no, no, no to anything much over Merv 5. If you need to filter the air that badly... buy an air filtering system don't suffocate your HVAC. The suction from the blower fan really should pull the filter tight to the front of the box. If you have a gap on the furnace side once that blower comes on... then I would suspect that you have a bigger problem at work... bad filter box framing.. or a really bad blower fan. To be honest, as long as you are not pulling excessive warm (during the warmer months) or very dirty air into the system around the box, I think it's pretty much a non-issue. But the filter lock is a nice inexpensive solution to either provide peace of mind and\or solve some issues which might occur in a small amount of scenarios.
Totally agree, I tried one of those Merv13, really restricted the flow, caused the AC unit to not cool properly... I believe the standard recommendation is to go with a media filter unit, those 3" ones, that go up to higher Merv's they do not restrict the flow, and have 10x the amount of material, and last much longer. The cost of the filter itself is lower (per year) and will pay for the upgrade..
His advice was just terrible NOT a MERV 13!!!! No!!! Speaking as an hvac service tech. So many problems in the short and long run.
My advice would be MERV 5 for old homes/furnaces and MERV 8 for almost everything else.
Aye lad well done me bhoy! I Chang ours 30 days or less depending on heavy useage. Love your wisdom lad keep it up
I think it depends on the filter. The MERV, the size etc. The 1 inch, seems you should change them more often. I now have a 5 inch, and it says 6-12 months depending on air conditions. I use MERV 10-11 as more than that, seems too restriction on my system.
I also have a filter box, which is a box separate from the duck and the furnace which houses the filter. Not sure If i have this because I have the 5 inch filter. When I got my new furnace, the furnace company suggested i install a filter box, but when the did the home inspection, noticed I had one so removed it from the quote and reused my current one.
I'm in a similar boat. Had a new system installed a couple of years ago, and it came with the Aprilaire filter system (got roped into it when I got the system). To be perfectly honest, I miss changing my filter monthly, primarily due to the exhorbitant cost of ther Aprilaire filters (I use a MERV 11 and their about 50 bucks a piece). I run the house fan all the time to keep air circulated but that comes at a price as the filers WON'T last the 6 months they state on the box (more like 4). I also feel that even at a MERV 11, the system works a little too hard to bring air through because of the 4 inch thick pleated filter. If I could turn back the clock, I'd opt for something that allowed me to use a universal filter and NOT one that is proprietary, like the Aprilaire (no generics for this baby).
I have a Nest thermostat. It will tell me when I need to change my filter based on HVAC usage in hours rather than the 3 months calendar. That way, if your system runs often, you will need to change it more often. However, if you don’t use your system that much, you can wait past the 3 months before changing the filter. The Nest will actually email you your monthly usage, how it compares to previous periods and how it compares to your Nest neighborhood. BTW, my furnace has that metal cover, blocking the filter side opening.
Nest is my favorite Smart Thermostat for sure 👍
That's pretty common for smart thermostats at this point, but definitely a good point. In Texas we only use our furnace a handful of days in the winter and we go much longer without a filter change. IN the summer we have to change it much more frequently. Usually once a month.
I made sure I got a 4 inch filter housing installed when I had my furnace replaced. 16x25x4 and run a MERV 11. The 4 inch depth adds a ton of filter media and I change it every 6 months. I do like that filter lock product for sure. I don't need it, but it's cheaper then replacing the duct work.
Thanks for the explanation about the arrow.
Pretty much any tape that can cover the gap will do the same thing. Other thing about this video is the frame on the furnace side of the filter is bent. If it were straight, the negative pressure caused by the blower will suck the filter against the furnace and pretty much seal the gap and cause all the air entering to go through the filter. So, even with your plastic and magnet solution, all that's going to happen behind the plastic is air will now flow around the filter, in the space between the plastic and the filter, and enter through the damaged frame.
Thx great advice.... ordered one from Amazon..👍👍👍
I use my furnace for heating only, iv noticed a banging noise & after watching this video , im assuming it because of the dirty filter causing pressure to build in the return air duct ??
Great video !!
Thank u
Thank you. Got the answer I was looking for @2:05. Then watched the rest.
Another method that I use is to install an adhesive backed half round weatherstrip on the duct side of the opening, to take up the excess space and force the filter against the furnace. At some point one might expect the furnace ductwork folks to reduce the size of the filter opening to fit the 3/4" filters instead of 1"". They haven't sold true 1" filters in many moons.
K&n makes a good air filter. I just bought one. Works great. It's a Merv 8 4-in filter and it's a lifetime filter. Just have to clean it every 3 months
I guess I am fortunate. When we upgraded our HVAC system 35 yrs ago, we had an electronic air cleaner added to the system. It still works very well even after two system upgrades.
These and all the EHR videos here are so informative and well-done that I even watch the ones I'm not interested in :)
Hey Eric, thanks for all the support 👍
Great video, didn’t know that product existed. I use packing tape but might try that seal method.
Agree on the 3M filtrete 1900 - merv 13, but also twice the media as most merv 8's on the market (1,560 sq. in) so they do not clog up fast, or create static pressure build up any faster then the typical merv 8. Oh, but they do collect smaller particulate matter MUCH better than any merv 8 on the market (including particulates from wildfire smoke) - which equates to cleaner coils, less work for your motor etc, and FAR better overall air quality in your home. It's a no brainer. My residential HVAC heating/cooling system (Maytag) is close to 20 yrs old. Other than changing out a pressure switch yrs ago, not a single issue.
I change the 3M 1900 every 4-6 weeks in summer, 8 weeks when snow is on the ground.
Let me give you another piece of advice. A 1" thick filter is completely inadequate for the task, because if you use filtrete it's too restrictive and it's gonna kill your furnace, and if you use fiberglass you're not really protecting your evaporator from getting dirty, so what you need to do is have your HVAC contractor modify that filter slot to accept a minimum of a 2" thick filter, which has a greater filtration area, a lower face velocity, and less restriction to the flow of air. Ultimately this saves you money in operational costs and extends the life of your equipment.
Wait until you price them not to mention availability. My Carrier unit came from the factory with the 2 inch option. The price and lack of choices turned me away from them.
@@tumbleweedking5668 In that case you're not looking in the right places, because 99.9% of the equipment that I service on commercial rooftops uses 2" filters, and trust me, they are not paying a lot of money to have me pick up those filters and put them in.
What I need is a video hot to convert my one inch filter frame to accept 2" filters.
Our contractor made a snap on sheet metal cover. Works great
My house uses an electrostatic filter that is reusable by washing and rinsing it out periodically. What do you think about this type of filter?
I like the idea but don’t think they are good in practice. Most of my thoughts on these filters come from the K&N type and the reviews on Amazon 🤷♂️
Garbage filters
Depends if you are talking about a real electrical powered electrostatic filter which is the best, or the cheap reusable filters they claim are electrostatic. I have been using the K & N washable filter and it is fantastic. It is not electrostatic but saves a ton of money over the long haul.
@@jazzfreek54 Thanks for the info. Actually the washable filter is the type that I use too with very good results.
Great video and always wondered about that gap. I will have to give this a try.
Super clear and useful info, thanks so much!
I use hvac tape to seal it off. It's a little bit of a pain to remove the tape when changing the filter, but at least I know that it's fully sealed with no gaps at all.
Have a filter service indicator installed, worth every penny. I have had customers not install filters and destroy the entire system, unbalanced blower, burned up motor and it’s housing, and super clog the exchanger…, and those who don’t check filters and find the filter sucked into the unit due to load….
I only use up to a merv 8 and change them every month, 2 months at the very most. 👍 One of our properties filter becomes a dark grey after a month, used too high a merv value and it damaged the motor by cutting off the flow. A $10 filter cost me $300 motor replacement!
Great video, thanks for posting. I was changing my 1-inch wide filters every quarter. But when I changed over to the 2-inch wide filters, I was noticing there was no appreciable debris accumulation on them after 3 months... go figure. So now they get changed bi-annually instead. Also, I stick with Merv 8. Less resistance than Merv 12. It seems inefficient to use your heater/ AC unit as an air purifier. A stand-alone unit would be a much better solution for indoor air pollution.
Great information to share!
Thought - since you will be removing the seals to change the filter I would suggest marking the one you cut with a sharpie or even electrical tape
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
Best video on this subject. Thank you very much.
If you use a high Merv rated filter it will reduce more than you know. It will make the blower work harder and reduce the life of the motor. It also reduces the amount of airflow going to the vents. If you want zero air flow and a motor burn out....by all means use this advice. The open slot issue can be fixed by using magnetic register covers cut to size.
My unit
My filter is under my unit. I’ve always used the higher quality filter. I don’t have return ducts, mine has hole covered by vent. So I’m probably getting air from my house so it doesn’t seem like that isn’t problem. Plus the oily residue is new. So I’m not having a lot of faith in my air conditioner representative but have a contract. I’m a senior widow and finding trusting people a real Challenge!
Superb tutorial - many thanks!
I think this demo was set up I've never seen the air filter stay in place when the blower motor comes on. It is always pulled tight to the furnace forcing any air coming through that gap to go through the furnace. Further more I think it is a good thing to pull some return from the basement to keep it ventilated as long as you don't create a negative pressure that could negatively effect other gas fired appliances especially natural draft hot water tanks.
Just what I needed, bought on the spot. Thanks!
Hvac pro here. Should have made a filter door for that elbow. That def sucks in a lot of dirt and dust. Good video!
Most residential applications don't need 4 filter changes per year simply because the furnace/AC does not run all year round with the exception of those who run their fans continuously for air circulation. For those who must use expensive high dollar filters such as HEPA, consider using a cheaper pre-filter in front of the expensive filter. You'll have to install another filter track to accommodate the pre-filter but it will save you $$$ in the long run. In the commercial HVAC industry where fans tend run 24/7, the pre-filter is changed every 3 months while the more expensive lower micron second filter is changed, once a year.
Had a HVAC guy tell me don’t get the higher rate. It will be clogged up with in a week and just strain the system. If you need the higher filter get one and put it on a box fan in your bedroom. I live in a very dusty area, we have white dust and grey dust. It’s so much fun.
Right now in the condo I’m in it has a four inch opening and the filter the landlord left fall over every time it turns on.
I have an older furnace that works great. The first filter shown works best. Anything more restricting will shut down the furnace.
Thank you very much for this useful information.
You are welcome
That is really a great way to fix the opening. I use two filters to my A/C. One at the air handler which is 5-1/2” thick that I change once a year and the other normal 1” where the air intakes inside the house that I change ones every 3 months. The question is that over kill and would that effect the air flow in the house. Great video as always.
I am thinking about upgrading to a 4” filter by Aprilaire so I can get the higher MERV rating with the lower restriction from the increased surface area. I need to do a bit more investigation but I think my retrofit is fairly straightforward.
What's your pressure drop?
@@Gabriel-vz7ml sorry, not a clue. I am clueless about A/Cs.
Never use 2 filters! 1 at the air handler/furnace only, 2 filters is TOO much! This will cause an air flow restriction and extra strain on the blower motor.
@@Slavelife9279 thank you. I will eliminate the filter at the air handler. It just make more sense. Thank you again
Thank you for sharing now I'm thinking what about the backside wouldn't you have to close that as well
Great product affordable solution, thanks for info.
The filter door on our 2002 Carrier air handler is the least of my problems. We bought this 35 yo contemporary in 2012 and while a solid structure, the ductwork must've been someone's middle school project.
I'd like to see how a homeowner can snake through remote, buried (wall and floor) ducts to look for leaks and clogs. I have an endoscope and tried with fish tape but couldn't negotiate corners. Somewhere there's either a blockage or leak and the upper back bedrooms get very little air.
I guess every HVAC installer does this differently but this is the first time I have seen a filter with out a cover over it. Where I am, the filters are retained with in a door or cover to prevent leakage.
I've lived in 6 houses and none of the furnaces have had doors on the filter slots...
@@brettzeigerbacher2314 Interesting. I am on house 5, never seen this before. Maybe older home construction is this way. But the product to correct it is cool and something worth noting if I run across such a thing in my area.
@@cgore4 Thats normal in apts. that only have 1 central air return, maybe 2? My house has 1 or 2 return vents in every room. The central return is to save money on the system installation, not a great idea IMO. The best is to have a return air vent on the bottom and the top of the walls. Shut the bottom vent when the A/C is running so you send the warm air at the top to the furnace. Shut the top vent and open the bottom when the heat runs so you send the cooler air at ground level to the furnace.
Your frequency of filter change is dependent on your home and how clean you keep it. I have seen filters filthy in only 1 month, but have also seen filters barely dirty after a year. (this house was super clean) so a calendar date is not necessarily an indication. Also some homes need more often changes in different seasons. Really depends on your circumstances. Best to pull filter and check once a month and see until you get a feel for it.
Remember the air conditioning coil becomes your filter if you run without a filter or if your filter is cheap or not properly fitted.