Tip... Elmers Wood Glue, (it's yellow) is not water soluble when dry. When it dries, it can get wet, creates a really hard shell, and can be sanded to a smooth finish.
It is a fantastic process, I've been playing with a similar method for my Darth Revan costume. If you use aluminum powder in the resin, you can also get a cold cast effect.
Very excellent ! You, as too many do not show the end result first. That is KEY for DIY video. Saves time, effort & helps viewer concentrate throughout video. THANK YOU!
This video was so helpful to me! I'm planning a foam costume build project and I was trying to think of a way to get the smoothness of fiberglass and resin without using them. This will be perfect. Thank you so much!
Easiest (and cheapest) solution is to use the white Elmer's School Glue. It has more additives and is more acidic than straight PVA, which is important to consider for book binding, but doesn't make a noticeable difference for this application. ^_^
I've finally found a Uk based foam master! Yay :) Thanks for the tutorial, I will definitely have to look into this. How much pressure can it take? I'm thinking of using this for knee pads.
I finally ordered some Smooth-Cast 65D last week and was able to play with it over the weekend. For those of you who are on a budget like myself, they sell trial versions for about $40 (including shipping), which actually goes a long way since this stuff spreads like water. For glue, I used Gorilla Wood Glue sold by Lowe's here in the USA. The foam I used was 1/4" EVA Foam. I must say I am in complete shock at the results. They are fantastic. I give this process a 5/5. Thank you James.
This process looks marvelous. I will have to give it a try on the HEV suit I plan on making for my husband. I really want something to give that hard, sturdy look and I am sure this will do the trick! Thanks for the video!
Really helpful video, I was looking for a way to add a plastic exoskeleton to an EVA foam Starwars helmet, never thought of brush-on plastic. Thanks so much for experimenting and then adding to RUclips.
Great video. How does this hold up to being bent? I used EVA foam to make a few armor pieces, I sealed it with wood glue (several coats) and then paint and polish. I had a couple spots in my collar piece that creased where it bent a little. Does this make it totally rigid so it can't bend? Does it crack? Will it crease? Thanks
Awesome James! Question: Can I use an Epoxy Resin with hardener instead of the Smooth-on product? I have used West System brand Epoxy Resin 105A with 206 hardener. Will this work the same way as you described?
I'm currently in the makeing of my verry first iron man suit out of 6mm Eva foam I've never done anything like this before but up to know it's not to bad I shall be also using the polyurethane resin and pva glue treatment for the suit as well
Really interesting! I was actually considering coating the foam in urethane resin and I was planning a few experiments. I have to admit PVA was not one of my initial options! Thank you! This will make my work easier!
great video. I do alot of slush casting, i suggest using the small white cups you get. they have small lines on the edge so are easy to measure. i pour a small amount onto each cup.. leave for a few minutes for the bubbles to disappear, then pour one into another ( when pouring, tilt the cup and pour onto the edge.. this stops bubbles forming) and mix very smoothly. then you can brush on. when brushed on use a hot air gun to remove bubbles from the surface.
Thanks for all these vids James. You've done a lot of the legwork in figuring out what works best and just wow, the projects you've done turn out really well! My question is if there is anything similar to the 65D I could use to be less rigid, more like rubber or leather and less like plastic?
Thanks for sharing this video. I'm going to work on my Snake Eyes Retaliation costume & the armor on the upper chest/shoulders with EVA foam, so this video help a lot on knowing how to make it glossy & kinda like Kevlar look with this without ruining it. :)
on eps i found using bondo as a second coat for more detail and easier shaping/sanding helps. cuts down time it takes sanding the 65D. then i hit it with a last coat of the 65D to give it the clean plasticy look.
For the bubbles, mentioned at 10:00 - I have seen in videos on coating wood (eg table tops) with resin, that a butane flame played rapidly across the surface pops all the bubbles, and leaves a very smooth surface. I don't know if it would work with this, but it could be worth an experiment on some piece of scrap. Keep the flame moving. Don't actually heat any localised area of the workpiece.
I saw the same technique with heat gun and even with hairdryer. And that's definitely worth a try, though open flame could be really too much for the foam.
does anyone know if this coating makes it less flammable, I read polystyrene is highly flammable, but would coating it make it usable as something like an incense burner or ash tray?
Thanks for this. I have some sculptured foam for my car spats and carbon skinning makes the design too bulky. This plastic coating looks a much better idea.
This is really cool thanks for sharing, I've been following your Iron man build too really cool stuff. Keep it up! Would be great to see more of this technique.
This is cool. I was wondering James, do you know how this would work for PLA plastics? I got a 3D printer, and I want to paint the sculptures I create, but PLA can melt in heat -- I'm trying to think of ways to make it stronger and more durable- as compared to just casting it out of another material.
Easyflo 120 is a good rotational cast urethane but i would suggest Easyflo 60 with microballoons in it. you'll half the weight and double the strength that way. and james if you see this, epoxy resins can be used on styrofoam without sealing.
Instead of brushing the PVA, have you considered using a LPHV (Low Pressure High Volume) spray gun for application? These guns are available with different nozzles, needles, and air caps for different viscosities in materials being applied.
Hi i will be starting my first armor this summer and on that armor I have to curve the foam in 2 directions; horizontal and vertical at the same time. I heard you mentioned about compound curve, so do you have a tutorial on that please?
I'm curious, how durable is armor made using these methods? Say, if I were to use it for sparring and parkour, do you think it would hold up, or should this really only be used for cosplay and props? So far I'm loving your videos-- great work!!!
James, have you done a destructive test to determine just how durable this combination is? I suggest you take the "part" you made in this video and tear it apart using your hands or even some tools to see how tough it actually is. And of course you should video the test and upload it for us to see! Thanks.
Thanks. I tried the liquid latex and it seemed to just be a lot of room for error for what I wanted. Trying to do a hybrid leather/metal look for a suit of armor. I'll give plastidip a try.
I think you have hit on something here, as you say something like this has definately been the holy grail for foam builders, this may well be the missing key to the puzzle. Have you had any seperation of the 65D either by lifting of flaking/breaking off yet?
To know that we can use smooth-cast over pva and foam changes everything! So instead of a paper pep and hours of bondo and sanding... Just a foam pep and then this and most of the job is done. Wow. I'm guessing we can also mold it after?
yeah,i figured id give it and try and see using a sample piece. one more question, i was looking at the foam templates on pepakura and i was wondering. what holds the pieces together? is a foam strip under the pieces u attach them to? crazy question..lol
since the foams end result is of a plastic nature does this mean a step using bondo is not necessary? also, for filling in cracks can we use some sort of filler? for example, for a leg piece different rectangles make it into a circle shape but V shaped divets are between each rectangle. great video my friend.
Hi James, I'm sure this has been answered somewhere in the feed but you couldn't let me know where you got the smooth cast from I'm struggling to find it.
Do you think that letting the Polyurethane set slightly before painting it on would make it easier for the non-rounded pieces? Just so that it's slightly less runny, or would that make it too difficult to apply?
Question; Could this method be used to coat a large section such as a chest piece? Main thoughts are that I could brush it on, let it set and then have at it with sandpaper or something... if you can do that. Any tips or info on larger pieces would help, totally new to foam building/coating and I'd rather like to try this!
I am a big fan of your tutorials. It seems like you are one of few Iron Man builders who are willing to share their techniques and secrets. Especially the motorization of the helmet. I am in the middle of a build but haven't decided if I should plastidip or rotocast. Have you tried using body filler on top of the plastidip? Do you think body fillers such as bondo would stick well to plastidip?
I did both ways over the weekend. Heating it does speed up the process but the results are pretty bad. It cracks pretty severely. I put a fan in front of one of my test pieces and it sped up the process while holding the quality. Personally, if you have the time let is cure on its on in room temp, but if you're pressed for time simply throw a fan in front of it. You'll just have to sand a little more and do 1 or 2 more layers since it doesn't dry evenly if that makes sense.
wow great job...really fantastic....but could you please tell me wath you have used to plastify the coat foam? me and my cousin are tryng to build an Iron Man and an Iron Patriot suit....but we're blocked by the process of plastic th suit....thank you so much XD
Tip... Elmers Wood Glue, (it's yellow) is not water soluble when dry. When it dries, it can get wet, creates a really hard shell, and can be sanded to a smooth finish.
Wow, I remember watching this in 2013 and have watched this man for years and still 9 years later, this still amazes me!
Thanks for watching!
I am so happy I found this! Will really help in my stormtrooper build.
4 years ago now :o does it looks great ??
@@jeanfrancoispoke1362 legend says he’s still working on it
This is great! I'm about to start my Space Marine foam build tomorrow and will definitely be using this process.
What a wonderful information! Thank you very much!
Don't let the bubbles dry, Use a hear gun over them when they form and they will level out and save time by reducing the sanding process.
Great idea! Thanks for the tip!!!
It is a fantastic process, I've been playing with a similar method for my Darth Revan costume. If you use aluminum powder in the resin, you can also get a cold cast effect.
Why do you do these excellent and very helpful videos? !!! Utterly inspiring. Thank you so much :)
thank you for finding, trying, recording and then sharing this method, this could be a serious time and effort saver, once again thanks.
So much serious! I kinda like it more than the bit over the top you have gotten.
Good to know. Thanks. I have just started testing this method out, and am pretty happy with the results. Thanks for sharing it!
Very excellent ! You, as too many do not show the end result first. That is KEY for DIY video. Saves time, effort & helps viewer concentrate throughout video. THANK YOU!
Thank you!! I’m trying to make my own version of Candy makeup artist’s corsets!! This is the closest I can get to a tutorial
Thanks for helping me figure out how to make better armor than just regular foam, or fiberglass!
I wanted to say, I really like this method. I've used it quite a few times now.
This video was so helpful to me! I'm planning a foam costume build project and I was trying to think of a way to get the smoothness of fiberglass and resin without using them. This will be perfect. Thank you so much!
Easiest (and cheapest) solution is to use the white Elmer's School Glue. It has more additives and is more acidic than straight PVA, which is important to consider for book binding, but doesn't make a noticeable difference for this application. ^_^
This is absolutely fantastic. Thank you so much for making this video. :D
I've finally found a Uk based foam master! Yay :)
Thanks for the tutorial, I will definitely have to look into this. How much pressure can it take? I'm thinking of using this for knee pads.
I finally ordered some Smooth-Cast 65D last week and was able to play with it over the weekend. For those of you who are on a budget like myself, they sell trial versions for about $40 (including shipping), which actually goes a long way since this stuff spreads like water. For glue, I used Gorilla Wood Glue sold by Lowe's here in the USA. The foam I used was 1/4" EVA Foam. I must say I am in complete shock at the results. They are fantastic. I give this process a 5/5. Thank you James.
This process looks marvelous. I will have to give it a try on the HEV suit I plan on making for my husband. I really want something to give that hard, sturdy look and I am sure this will do the trick! Thanks for the video!
Really helpful video, I was looking for a way to add a plastic exoskeleton to an EVA foam Starwars helmet, never thought of brush-on plastic. Thanks so much for experimenting and then adding to RUclips.
im just now working on my iron man suit and your videos really helps me
Great video. How does this hold up to being bent? I used EVA foam to make a few armor pieces, I sealed it with wood glue (several coats) and then paint and polish. I had a couple spots in my collar piece that creased where it bent a little. Does this make it totally rigid so it can't bend? Does it crack? Will it crease? Thanks
Great tutorial. I always wondered why more people didn't do this.
This is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for! Thanks!
Superb work Sir. Very helpful and answers a lot of questions I had.
Thank you for this James, it is VERY helpful and this looks like what I want for my sculpts, I have subbed
This is a brilliant idea!
Same foam rubber I’m working with. Great! Going to learn from you. Mine will have to endure outdoor weather 24\7. Fingers crossed. Thanks!!
Awesome job! I'm having a hard time finding the red paint for iron man mark 6. What red color did you used for this ?
this is amazing - nice shine
Very good idea. I may have to try this.
Awesome James!
Question: Can I use an Epoxy Resin with hardener instead of the Smooth-on product?
I have used West System brand Epoxy Resin 105A with 206 hardener. Will this work the same way as you described?
I'm currently in the makeing of my verry first iron man suit out of 6mm Eva foam I've never done anything like this before but up to know it's not to bad I shall be also using the polyurethane resin and pva glue treatment for the suit as well
Is there a noticeable weight difference?
Excellent video and instruction. This opens up whole new possibilities. Good on you mate!
Steve Neill
Really interesting! I was actually considering coating the foam in urethane resin and I was planning a few experiments. I have to admit PVA was not one of my initial options! Thank you! This will make my work easier!
Awesome Videos, Thanks for all the great reference material.
great video. I do alot of slush casting, i suggest using the small white cups you get. they have small lines on the edge so are easy to measure. i pour a small amount onto each cup.. leave for a few minutes for the bubbles to disappear, then pour one into another ( when pouring, tilt the cup and pour onto the edge.. this stops bubbles forming) and mix very smoothly. then you can brush on. when brushed on use a hot air gun to remove bubbles from the surface.
I used this method and it worked wonderfully! thanks :)
That's very true. I didn't think about that.
Excellent video, really well presented and informative. Thanks.
Sweet! I am making an underbust corset,so love the video! thanks!
Once again another great helpful video thanks
Thanks for all these vids James. You've done a lot of the legwork in figuring out what works best and just wow, the projects you've done turn out really well!
My question is if there is anything similar to the 65D I could use to be less rigid, more like rubber or leather and less like plastic?
This is just brilliant mate, thanks for putting this together and sharing the tips :)
hey xrobots tried this on a shoulder bell today turned out pretty well thanks for the tips
Thats Genius! Thx for the ideas!
Thanks for sharing this video. I'm going to work on my Snake Eyes Retaliation costume & the armor on the upper chest/shoulders with EVA foam, so this video help a lot on knowing how to make it glossy & kinda like Kevlar look with this without ruining it. :)
Encredible well described walkthrough.. thank you James.. your a lifesaver - im giong to try with my kid and its going be great :)
Thanks so much for answering! I'm now one step closer to making my Mass Effect 3 Armor
on eps i found using bondo as a second coat for more detail and easier shaping/sanding helps. cuts down time it takes sanding the 65D. then i hit it with a last coat of the 65D to give it the clean plasticy look.
I already have a HUGE tub of Elmers school glue and I am hoping I can use that instead of the PVA. Is it possible??? Hoping...
Thank you so much for making this video! You've made it so easy to understand and very doable!
For the bubbles, mentioned at 10:00 - I have seen in videos on coating wood (eg table tops) with resin, that a butane flame played rapidly across the surface pops all the bubbles, and leaves a very smooth surface. I don't know if it would work with this, but it could be worth an experiment on some piece of scrap. Keep the flame moving. Don't actually heat any localised area of the workpiece.
I saw the same technique with heat gun and even with hairdryer. And that's definitely worth a try, though open flame could be really too much for the foam.
does anyone know if this coating makes it less flammable, I read polystyrene is highly flammable, but would coating it make it usable as something like an incense burner or ash tray?
This is EXACTLY what I needed, thank you so much!
Thanks for this. I have some sculptured foam for my car spats and carbon skinning makes the design too bulky. This plastic coating looks a much better idea.
This is really cool thanks for sharing, I've been following your Iron man build too really cool stuff. Keep it up! Would be great to see more of this technique.
This is gold. Great vid man!
This is cool. I was wondering James, do you know how this would work for PLA plastics? I got a 3D printer, and I want to paint the sculptures I create, but PLA can melt in heat -- I'm trying to think of ways to make it stronger and more durable- as compared to just casting it out of another material.
This was a very helpful tutorial. Thank you.
Really appreciate this video!
Was looking to make a little stiffer and the glue is exactly what i need thanks
Hi. How strong is the result of this method? Could it be made suitable for furniture building? Thank you! Great work.
Easyflo 120 is a good rotational cast urethane but i would suggest Easyflo 60 with microballoons in it. you'll half the weight and double the strength that way. and james if you see this, epoxy resins can be used on styrofoam without sealing.
im so gonna use this prosess!im gonna click that big fat subscrib button
Instead of brushing the PVA, have you considered using a LPHV (Low Pressure High Volume) spray gun for application? These guns are available with different nozzles, needles, and air caps for different viscosities in materials being applied.
Hi i will be starting my first armor this summer and on that armor I have to curve the foam in 2 directions; horizontal and vertical at the same time. I heard you mentioned about compound curve, so do you have a tutorial on that please?
VERY informative, thank you!!
This is going to be hell painting on big pieces. But the ending product is sick though
This is brilliant.
I'm curious, how durable is armor made using these methods? Say, if I were to use it for sparring and parkour, do you think it would hold up, or should this really only be used for cosplay and props?
So far I'm loving your videos-- great work!!!
Amazing method
+James Burton can you use this same technique with craft foam?
James, have you done a destructive test to determine just how durable this combination is? I suggest you take the "part" you made in this video and tear it apart using your hands or even some tools to see how tough it actually is. And of course you should video the test and upload it for us to see! Thanks.
Thanks. I tried the liquid latex and it seemed to just be a lot of room for error for what I wanted. Trying to do a hybrid leather/metal look for a suit of armor. I'll give plastidip a try.
I think you have hit on something here, as you say something like this has definately been the holy grail for foam builders, this may well be the missing key to the puzzle. Have you had any seperation of the 65D either by lifting of flaking/breaking off yet?
Very good video. Is wood glue what you used first? Thank you.
By far the best cosplay armor tutorial. This makes the other ones not even worth watching.
Great work
To know that we can use smooth-cast over pva and foam changes everything! So instead of a paper pep and hours of bondo and sanding... Just a foam pep and then this and most of the job is done. Wow. I'm guessing we can also mold it after?
Good job mate
Thanks for the video.
yeah,i figured id give it and try and see using a sample piece. one more question, i was looking at the foam templates on pepakura and i was wondering. what holds the pieces together? is a foam strip under the pieces u attach them to? crazy question..lol
since the foams end result is of a plastic nature does this mean a step using bondo is not necessary? also, for filling in cracks can we use some sort of filler? for example, for a leg piece different rectangles make it into a circle shape but V shaped divets are between each rectangle. great video my friend.
Wondering if you could use a thickener and give it a snap from behind, after you put on a good layer? Good video.
Hi James, I'm sure this has been answered somewhere in the feed but you couldn't let me know where you got the smooth cast from I'm struggling to find it.
Do you think that letting the Polyurethane set slightly before painting it on would make it easier for the non-rounded pieces? Just so that it's slightly less runny, or would that make it too difficult to apply?
Thank you Gary. Cheers
Question; Could this method be used to coat a large section such as a chest piece? Main thoughts are that I could brush it on, let it set and then have at it with sandpaper or something... if you can do that. Any tips or info on larger pieces would help, totally new to foam building/coating and I'd rather like to try this!
I am a big fan of your tutorials. It seems like you are one of few Iron Man builders who are willing to share their techniques and secrets. Especially the motorization of the helmet. I am in the middle of a build but haven't decided if I should plastidip or rotocast. Have you tried using body filler on top of the plastidip? Do you think body fillers such as bondo would stick well to plastidip?
Really useful! Thanks!
So for the plastic primer, is that necessary or just a personal preference?
I did both ways over the weekend. Heating it does speed up the process but the results are pretty bad. It cracks pretty severely. I put a fan in front of one of my test pieces and it sped up the process while holding the quality. Personally, if you have the time let is cure on its on in room temp, but if you're pressed for time simply throw a fan in front of it. You'll just have to sand a little more and do 1 or 2 more layers since it doesn't dry evenly if that makes sense.
Hi, did you use water mixed on the PVA glue? If yes, what is the ratio? Thanks.
have you mixing food coloring in with the Smooth-cast before applying it? it should set that color, and remove priming and painting
Hi James, a little late to the party but I hope you don't mind. Curious about the pva.. will any wood glue do?
would you still recommend this foam building technique of have you found better alternatives?
wow great job...really fantastic....but could you please tell me wath you have used to plastify the coat foam? me and my cousin are tryng to build an Iron Man and an Iron Patriot suit....but we're blocked by the process of plastic th suit....thank you so much XD