Pinning a couple of extra notes: - The system will log DTC codes if it detects wiring problems on the solenoids, compressor, actuators or sensors. You can read these codes through TechStream software. - The system takes other inputs over the car's CAN system, from acceleration sensors, engine ECU, the pre-collision system (facelift models with PCS option), steering angle sensor and ABS system. For the purpose of brevity I've omitted these inputs, so just know that it does some fancy things to constantly adjust for the best ride and to improve safety during a crash.
Great video. I have an issue that the rode is extremely stiff. Seems as if you're driving on stones. Have changed all components one by one but doesn't change the ride quality. Any suggestions on what could be wrong? I'm willing to go over the whole system again to be able to diagnose and fix the issue.
Thanks for that detailed review of the system. I have a question. Where and how have you disabled costant adjustment of suspension using inputs from different sensors and systems? In particular, where in the thechstream software do I go to and what should be deactivated? Thanks for the info!
@@LS430VIPOk, thank you for your kind reply. Do have any experience in adjusting the ride hight of LS430 other then using shorter links between body and level sensors? It must be possible, at least in theory, to do it using techstream, no manipulation on the hardware. Any advice on this matter?
@@googlename7141 I'd shorten the adjusters personally, by a maximum of around 15mm in length. Any more and you are likely to suffer from underinflation, which will lead to a crashy ride as it will slam into the end of travel of the shocks. If you want to go very much lower you will need aftermarket suspension, as you can only remove so much air before you have none to absorb bumps.
My LS430 UL had the rear left strut fail by catastrophically bursting. It was something out of a movie. The rear end kept raising up and up and up and getting more stiff. I knew the car was over-inflating the rear but I wasn't sure why. I suspected a bad sensor but I was 2 hours from home. The rear left ended up bursting like a shotgun and I had to drive the car slammed in the rear. THANKFULLY the car could drive with tire clearance in the rear. What a sight this was... I ended up replacing all four air struts with conventional spring and dampeners. Great video. Thanks!
It is rare for me to comment on Fido, but your way of explaining, responding to comments, and spending your effort and time to help people greatly amazed me and prompted me to comment. You are wonderful, man. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Greetings to you from Germany.
Just picked up an 20year old ... rear right is lower then other and ratte sounds from the compressor... thank u for ur Information and hints ... very well done ... one of the best learning vids ob yt ... greetings from germany !
i have a 2004 ls430 that i purchased from the original owner of whom i knew. It had 305000kms when i picked it up and has the air suspension. This car has been BY FAR the most reliable car i've ever owned. Air suspension was replaced on all corners by original owner at 180,000kms. I currently have 420,000kms on this vehicle and had to have the 'tabs" on the lateral arms on the rear welded back on as they did break off (as mentioned in this video). The rear height sensor arms become stiff over the years of salt and cold winters as mine did and they finally were too stiff to move around and broke the tabs off. Had them zip tied up for a few weeks until my mechanic was able to weld them on with some "used" height sensors i picked up off eBay. Car ran well for a few months but now having an issues with the rear inflating to stiff and the ride becoming very hard. So, either it's the exhaust solenoid at the front which discharged excess air according to height or it's the rear sensors that my mechanic fooled around with to get a level he was comfortable with. Sometimes the car will go back to level ride, but it's been more stiff than not and i'll have to crawl under it and see. Otherwise, this car has been nothing but a dream to own and drive. I have a 300 F-Sport as well, and while that car handles amazing, i find myself driving in the LS for the room and comfort more times than not. Thanks for the great video, you are bang on in your information!
Thanks for the comment, hope you found some useful info in the video. With regards to your problem, the exhaust solenoid is shared by front and back, so I would expect issues with the front as well if it was that. I'd lean towards your used height sensors giving out. Good luck with the fix 👍
@@LS430VIP Bit cheeky of me, but I have an LS430 myself and wondered if you could help me with a query? When sitting for around a day or two the rear right seems to drop a little lower than the rest, I have not had a chance to look under the car properly but do you think it could be the rear solenoids as you said in the video? It doesn't seem to be "sagged" as such like I've seen on many 2000 Mercedes S classes, but a fair bit lower than the other side which seems fine to me. Again, I've not yet been able to look into it further, but I will soon and take measurements, as well as looking at the rear control arm sensors. Thanks again!
@@James_Smith489 sounds like a small leak, I'd check the rear solenoid pair first as they do corrode. Could be just starting to go so only leaking from one side/edge yet. The bag is also possible, but check the solenoid first with lots of soapy water.
@@James_Smith489 no problem. Might be useful to set the suspension to High before you check it, it will then have a bit more pressure in the system so might find leaks a little easier.
If you want to know what a reliable car looks like there is only the Land Cruiser. It sucks that Toyota has to include extremely problematic tech like air suspension in some of their high end cars.
Hi Peter! I was really excited to see your video since I am having serious problems with my air suspension. Last year I have renewed all my airstruts (+5000 euro) since they were leaking oil. After that I went on a trip from 1500km. The day I went home the ride became extremely harsh like an extremely lowered car and the car was lifted as well. There were 4 DTC's on the struts and one other but I lost all the info on this because of an error in my diagnose-tool. The DTC's didn't came back again. When I turn the car off on again the car lowers itself to the original ridehight. After driving a few seconds the car raises itself and becomes directly harsh again. The crazy thing here is that the car isnt exactly as harsh anymore as when the problem occured. Its absolutely not comfortable like it should be originally but its really not extremely harsh. The car is still raised though. The sport button is also not working anymore since this error. Normally I always drive in sport and thats really super comfortable with my car... its just the very perfect sweetspot between maximum comfort and safe steering. When I putted it in normal mode I found it a bit to boaty on the highway and dont get me wrong. I really love that! The only thing is that the floating can get dangerous when the road is bumpy or with sidewind or juist on busy roads. The sport button really takes that slightly uncontrollable feeling away for me. Anyway. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? I almost bought 4 new original sensors but they are 550 euro's each over here so I didnt do that + the risk of having a bad solenoid 2x 550 euro or maybe the computer is broken or some other difficult part? Where is the end of investing loads of money..... I connected my IT2 tester and disconnected every sensor from the control arm and rolled the sensor up and down. They where all showing their numbers directly when I twisted the arm on the sensor. Not one behaved strangely. I really hope you can help me out since you know so much about this system!
I'd recommend getting a copy of Techstream with a bidirectional cable. That will allow you to view all the live data, and also to actuate some of the parts to perform active tests on them. Your problem is certainly an unusual one, I did see you post this elsewhere. I can also send you over a copy of the factory workshop manual if you send me over your email address, it's got further diagnostic info.
@@LS430VIP Hey Peter, thanks for your reply! Can we make a skype call? I can tell you way more details. I did already did a live read out and I made pictures of them.
Also worth mentioning that if you disconnect components while it is running, the system may detect a fault and refuse to run for 10 minutes. A subsequent failure can disable the system for 70 minutes.
@@St.Moritz hi, I'm not really willing to do a video call, but if you send me your email address I'll send over the manual, and you can send over any screenshots for me to look at.
Thanks so much for your video it is very informative. My 04 UL seems to be functioning correctly and the ride is nice and soft at low speeds. I notice the right rear wheel is about an inch lower than the left when at rest. After watching your video I suspect the height sensor.
Sometimes it's just the sensor arm having slid down the adjusting slot, look under the car from the rear to see if both sides are at the same spot on the slot.
So over all seems pretty reliable. The failure points that you mentioned amounted to bushings and certain components not being protected from debris. So all the money people spent switching to coil overs could have easily been saved just by addressing those few issues. 🤦♂️
Thank you for the breakdown of the system, bought a ls 460 recently and have a background in heavy diesel engines/tractor trailer. Why does car air system not have any check valve or redundant components for safety similar to class 8 tractor trailers, which have a complete mechanical air ride system except for the air dump valve that's optional and temporary overinflation valve, would it be safer to build a mechanical system and then layer a electrical system over it. Example a electric air pump maintain a fixed pressure in a air tank. Then 2/4 lines with check valves route to the suspension and two mechanical and two electric ride hight control arms.
Lexus do not mention it on the service schedule. I would only change it if you are in a very dusty environment (desert etc.) It is a small box near the compressor behind the front bumper.
Fantastic video! Thank you. Can I ask a question? I'm about to undertake putting my LS430 back on a set of factory air suspension. The car had been switched over to coilovers by the previous owner. They're far too stiff for me, and I love the car so much, and it would be so cool to have it back on air struts. Beside removing and replacing the struts, I assume they disabled the compressor somehow. However, both fuses and the relay for the air suspension are in place, and appear intact. Besides unplugging the electrical connection to the compressor, is there any other way the would have disabled it? I assume it may also have just failed. The car doesn't give any suspension errors on the dash, and the sports light comes on when I put in in sports suspension mode, and the high ride height message comes on when I flip that button. I appreciate any tips your may have!
I'd definitely check the compressor connections first, or it could be faulty. You could also check the connectors to the air suspension ECU behind the glovebox, although I suspect that is connected as the buttons work as you mentioned. You won't see a lot of faults on the dashboard, a scan with Techstream would help see what is working and not.
@@LS430VIP I did a bit more troubleshooting. I checked conductivity of both of the air suspension fuses, which were good. I managed to get to the compressor, which was still connected. I unplugged it, and there is a much thicker wire in the connector, which I assume is the 12V. I never read more that 300 millivolts on it. Next, I pulled the air suspension relay, and I read 3.5-3.8V across the smaller terminals, but basically zero across the larger terminals, assuming they should be12V. I played around some more, and plugged the compressor back in. At that point, I was able to read 12V across the larger relay terminals. I assume there's some kind of fail-safe that if the compressor is disconnected, it won't request the 12V anymore. As plugging and unplugging yields that kind of change in the high relay voltage, I assume that means the remaining connections are good, and it is a dead compressor.
@@plamenpetkov5723 having the 12v om the big wires but no compressor does strongly point to a broken compressor. Also, I assume you are testing with the engine turned on?
Thank you. I have an LS400 (1995, 2nd generation). Since a week or so the rear has been acting weird. It decides to sit very low. When i started in one day it almost bottomed out and for the days after that it practically was, even when driving it for a bit. Then days later i drove a bit to put it on a tow truck and it suddenly sat at a normal height. At one point i started in, it lifted itself up and then immediately went back down at the same speed. The lexus dealer said the struts are worn out and need to be replaced, but this can’t be the only direct issue right?
Hard to diagnose over the internet. If the compressor is running when the car is running but car is not raising, suspect a strut leak. If compressor is not running, suspect a height sensor.
Should there be play in the height sensor? Thanks for the video, very resourceful. I've got a small knocking sound when going over bumps. There was also a creaking that when turning the steering all the way. Lubing up the control arms mostly fixed the squeaking but the knocking is still present. Hoping the air struts do not need to be replaced.
@@LS430VIP thank you for your help. You truly put out a great video. So the bottom suspension arm rear mount connects to the wheel and the rest of the car. When I put WD-40 on the part that connects to the rest of the car, I think that's when the squeaking pretty much stopped. Knocking still exists however. Could be multiple things failing but I will check it out tomorrow, and I'm hoping its just the bushing. I'm guessing I'd have to take it apart to really figure out what's wrong if there's no visible damage. The previous owner had the front struts and all control arms replaced 1.5 years ago, so all of these issues are coming in as a huge surprise.
It's possible, one or both broken. The damage may or may not be obvious, I'd start with a physical look at them for breakage, and after that get the car scanned with Techstream to read the sensor values.
Great video many thanks. Can I just ask, if you replace the solenoids or the ride height sensors, is there any adjustments needed? Or will it just find itself through the ECU? Many thanks
I can't think of any components that would cause that. Have you carefully measured the gap before and after on level ground? High mode does not add much, I think less than an inch.
Techstream video will be much appreciated. I try to leveling my car using the data from techstream, but even when the values was set to equal mm, the car continue to be unleveled. Front left it's up and the rear right it's down.
@@dapetkov I would start by putting your sensor heights back to factory lengths, then running the car for a few minutes and then checking levels + reading values. The rear sensors should be put in the middle of the slot, and the front ones should have 92mm of skinny shaft exposed between the two nuts. I put a picture of the measurement in this thread: www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/133078-ls430-air-suspension-harsh-feeling-15-cm-high-error/ Once you know that the car is as it should be from the factory, it will be easier to see what sensors if any are giving false information.
I appreciate this video. You really go into great detail. Im actually in the middle of buying a 05. The problem im having is, does the system last? The car has 197k miles. I know that doesnt mean much with these cars. Im worried ill have problems with the bags. Should that be a worry? I appreciate you.. thanks
The car is 18 years old. Problems are inevitable. It's the same amount of worry as a spring and shock on a regular vehicle, after 18 years a blown shock or snapped spring will happen eventually. You shouldn't expect a car that old to have no issues, but the air suspension is no worse than any other part, it's just poorly understood.
@@LS430VIP that is exactly what I wanted to know. I appreciate you to the fullest. Wanted to know if they are as reliable as springs. Should've just said it that way. Thanks again..
@ls430vip ok, one more for ya. Base model or loaded? Are one of them more reliable. I understand there is more to go wrong in the elite. I guess I just answered my question. I I'm the middle of 2 cars. One is a base for 8k the other an elite for 11500. Both are in great condition. The elite is priced a few grand over but it's so clean. The base i can get for a few grand under value. I guess i answered my own question again. . I'm lost. Haha don't want to make another bad decision. I'm so tired of bad decisions.
Very nice video! I’ve got a pre-facelift LS430 with original air suspension. Just reached 234.000 km, all on original parts. I’ve noticed the air compressor kicks in about once a week for about 5 seconds, then shuts off. It happens on idle when I reach a stop sign or red light. I’ve read that it’s normal for the compressor to kick in, but not too often. Also, All 4 sides of the car look normal after being parked for many hours. Could an uneven road cause the compressor to run, in my case when I reach a red light, where the front is a bit higher than the rear of the car, due to a small slope in the road?
The 430 will actually air down slightly at highway speeds to improve aerodynamics, and air up again when you slow back down to town speeds, so it's normal for the compressor to kick in at stop lights etc. in those circumstances. It should be hard to hear though, I suspect you just need to replace the little bushes that hold the compressor on to quieten it down (part number in description).
@@LS430VIPSorry I forgot to mention. It’s usually after a few minutes after a cold start in the morning, after approx 15 hours resting. Compressor does not kick in right after starting, but after a few minutes when I reach a stop light, engine is still cold though. Happens usually once a week. The compressor itself is pretty hard to hear, but I can feel it slightly in the brake pedal at stop sign. Can this be considered normal behavior?
@@ThePerfectionOfLexus sounds normal to me. Again with the vibration, I'd consider replacing the bushings, but honestly it's not a big deal to leave them alone.
Which components of the air suspension need replacement if the rear suspension height always remains lower than the front suspension height. Will highly appreciate your kind feedback. Many thanks in advance.
Without physically inspecting the car I cannot say for certain. I would advise you to view the video and draw your own conclusions. I would start by inspecting the rear height sensors, and checking for large leaks at the rear distribution solenoid (if the difference in height is very large and you have no suspension travel on the rear remaining). If it is only slightly lower (maybe 30mm or less difference than the front), then the rear sensors probably just need adjustment. It is also possible that both rear bags have failed, but less likely than the other options. Again, I cannot diagnose this without the car present. Either use the knowledge in this video to diagnose the problem yourself, or take the car to a professional.
@@dr.ahsanhussain4382 probably the adjuster on the arm of the rear suspension sensor has slipped down a little in the slot, it will need to be undone and moved back up to centre of the slot.
Great video. The passenger side rear strut leaks down over two days, and it sounds like there's an owl in the boot as we drive over bumps. Any thoughts on the sound, and could the rear solenoid only affect one rear strut? Many thanks for the thorough report!
It's possible, but I'd say the strut is more likely, especially given the noise. Have a good look around the strut for signs of damage to the bag or oil leakage.
@LS430VIP Great Video! I have a quick question, I own a 2004 Lexus LS 430 Ultra Luxury with the Height Adjustable Air Suspension, and would like to know how to replace them. Of course the hardware of replacing the actual strut is straightforward, but disconnecting the air lines is my concern. Do you have a way to remove the air lines without damage to them? I'm having trouble with finding a video on how to do so and would like further information before I pull the trigger on the purchase. Thanks!
They're a bit fiddly to remove for sure. First pinch together the outer (pale white plastic) connector and slide it away up the line. Now the inner part is the tricky part, there are two barbs holding the line in. Some people use two screwdrivers to lever them out of the way but I don't recommend that as you can damage plastic parts. I instead cut a small piece of plastic pipe about 1-2" (25-50mm) that would be large enough to fit over the air line, then cut a small slit down the side of it so it can be inserted over the air line. Then slide it down into the strut connector pushing it in hard and it will push the barbs apart and the line will release. If you don't have a piece of stiff plastic pipe in the right size, I've even used a pen before cut up.
If you have run the car with the wheels off the ground or the sensors disconnected then the car may have disabled the system as a failsafe. If so, it will reset eventually, or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes may force a reset. If it doesn't reset, you will need to scan the car with Techstream to see if one of the sensors is malfunctioning.
Thanks for taking the time to explain Good run down now i can do some basic diagnosis.... also any idea on how how i can completely deflate the bags and leave them deflated not interested in Ride quality or comfort what si ever i want it boned on its ass without spending a dime on aftermarket suspension .... got the car ls460 for a song it owes me nothing and i like it enough to drive every now and again also i don't care if i damage anything....but would like to "raise it up In case i come across the law ie some sort of cowboy pneumatic valve or removing a fuse and putting it back in .....any dodge advice is greatly appreciated
Honestly I wouldn't recommend running with no air, it's likely to really screw with your traction in corner bumps. I'd recommend getting an air suspension data controller, it will allow you to set the height however you want and raise and lower it.
03 ls430 UL. My rear is lower than the front. I can hear the compressor turn on and off but nothing ever happens. There are notes from previous mechanic that suspension is leaking. If just one or 2 struts went bad would that cause none of them to raise or lower?
If the leak is large enough, the compressor won't be able to keep up with the amount of air lost so yeah it would stay low. I'd check the rear struts and distribution block with soapy water and for rips on the bags. Also, read the comments on here, loads of commenters have had issues with rear leaks so it's been covered before in my replies. Lot of useful info in the comments.
Good info! Thanks a lot. Do you have any idea where the small hose is for thats attached to the compressor housing? It goes the same direction as the thicker hose that is the inlet of the compressor. Would like to know!
As far as I can tell, this is the over-pressure relief hose, if the pressure in the system exceeds what the compressor can handle then I think it will blow by the compressor piston and exit this pipe. I'm not 100% positive on that though, it isn't documented in the factory manuals, I think it just connects to the little filter near the thicker input hose. An over-pressure scenario could happen if for example you entirely filled the car with concrete blocks, far exceeding the load capacity of the vehicle. The suspension would try to level out but the pressures in the system would get dangerously high without a relief system. The manual mentioned a relief pressure of 142 psi, and that it will throw a code in that scenario, but it detects that code based on the compressor running for too long, there is no sensor for pressure so it's likely a simple blow-by system, the ECM does not get a PSI reading, only height readings.
Amazing video! You are well informed on this system. I have a 2002 ls430 with the air suspension. The previous owner replaced the 2 rear air suspension with Arnott brand about 2 years ago and less than 8k miles ago. However I have been hearing rattling sound coming from the rear when going over bumps. I replaced the stabilizer links in the back thinking they might be the problem but the sound didn't go away. It's like a bad strut sound and I'm positive it's from the rear suspension. But they aren't leaking and they are fairly new and arnott is a reputable brand. However, the height of the car from the rear looks lower than the front. What do you think is causing this sound? Thnx
Hard to say, could be a problem with how it's installed, you would need to do further investigation to find the source of the noise. It's not unusual for them to sit a little higher at the front (an inch or less higher), you can usually adjust the rear sensors on their slot to adjust it back to level.
Question please. BTW. this is an amazing video, exactly what I've been hoping to find. I have a '97 Century which appears to have mostly identical components. My problem is right front corner drops after sitting for days. Airs right back up and ride is fine. Soap hasn't shown a leak. I'm starting to believe that the splitter valve has a seal going. Other than rolling the air lines coming from the value is there a way to determine if this value might seal might have a bit of blow by occurring?
Not really any way to test for certain as you'd have to rig up some sort of high pressure test rig for the valve and monitor for pressure drop over days. I think for 430 the valves were about £150 from Amayama, so not insanely expensive for a genuine Toyota/Lexus part.
@@LS430VIP thanks for a super quick response. So I'm gathering you feel this might be a reasonable thought as to the failure I'm experiencing. I'm going to be ordering some gaskets soon and will just include one of the valves. Massive thanks to you.
This is such a great video, and has helped me confirm my rear solenoid valve leak, thank you for sharing! My problem is finding a replacement unit. Do you know of any aftermarket equivalents?
Glad the video helped. I don't believe any aftermarket part exists for this, but it is still available from Lexus new, or secondhand. I think the part number is 48096-50040 (but check with your dealer), and sells for around $200/£175
Hi, DTC code C1786 and C1787 could it be the cause of the high sensors going bad, as I installed all 4 air suspension from a working car but my car refuses to go up. I’m driving a 2004 ls430. :)
I think those codes are set if you don't switch the height switches (High and Sport) on and off during scanning, they just allow you to test the switch. I doubt they are the issue. I would advise you to get the car scanned on Techstream to check the live height sensor values.
Good information. But I still need some help. I have 1997 Toyota century, which is a very similar system as the Lexus LS. My Air suspension holds air very well until the any of the rear doors were opened. As soon as the door open, both of the rear suspension will sink very fast. I also noticed if I disconnect and then reconnect the battery, the rear suspension sink very fast as well. Do you know what is wrong with my car? Thank you.
I am not familiar with the Century system, so I can only guess. Is it possible that the compressor shuts off when the doors are opened? Perhaps you have a leak, which is making the compressor run for longer than it should, and it is only just keeping up with the air being lost by a leak?
@@LS430VIP Thank you for replying. I have the car sitting in my garage for a week and it hold air 100%, it did not even lower 1mm. But as soon as I open the rear door, the air comes out very quickly, I can hear the air blowing out from the rear of the car.
Pretty normal, the rear sensor link arms walk down the slot over time so the back sits a little lower. Assuming it's only a small difference, and you still have working suspension, you can undo the adjustment nuts on the front sensor arms and twist them to shorten. Take before and after measurements, I'd keep to less than half inch shortening of the arm on front, to keep a bit of comfort. A half inch at the sensor arm will drop the wheel more than an inch, you'll need to play around with what's a good amount to adjust.
Great video! I have had my 04 LS430 UL for more than 16 years and just now I had to replace the front airbags because the shocks in them gave up. But now my front left dropps down in an instant while driving with no air leaks that I can hear. Looked up a lot of forums but no luck finding anything similar to my problem. I would really appreciate if you find the time to give me some advice on a possible issue if you can. The front left just goes competley down and the car is undrivable when it happens.
If the compressor is running (while engine is on) and that side has dropped, that indicates a large air leak that the car is trying to pump back up, check for leaks carefully. If the compressor is NOT running, that indicates that the car has received a bad reading from one of the height sensors and thinks it is level when it is not. Test height sensors and replace the faulty one.
@@LS430VIP You were right. Techstream gave me C1726 for LF sensor and C1751 for the air compressor running often. I will replace the sensor and hope for the best. Thanks again for your help!
Hi What an awesomely geeky video, love it! Please help. LS430 all original, FLSH, 95k. I can bounce the front easily by pushing on the wings. The rear has much more resistance. Does little compression resistance mean failed air shocks? Nearside is always higher than offside, in both high and low. When I go high, the amount raised is different on all 4 corners. Should all 4 raise the same or does it have a built in spirit level type system? There is a bit of oil on top of the front shocks where the sport actuators are. All the suspension components look original. When I manoeuvre slowly on full lock I get clunks from the front. If RH lock the clunk is from the left. LH lock the clunk is from the right. Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Dave
If there is fluid escaping from the shocks then that is damper fluid, so that will explain the bounciness. Those shocks that are leaking will need to be replaced. I would start with that, as they will cause harsh ride and probably knocking too. You should also look at the bushes at the rear of the front lower arms. These can be seen by looking under the car behind the front wheel, they often wear out and cause clunking. Small height differences between corners are not unusual, all the height sensors have adjustment on them to tweak this.
I'm trying to diagnose my 01 ls430, if I leave it off overnight the driver front strut completely deflates, after 3 days both front struts completely deflate. I've checked for leaks on all hoses, bags and solenoid with soapy water and can't find a leak.
The leak must be there somewhere, sometimes they can be very hard to find. If you still can't find it and the solenoid or struts are available secondhand then I would replace them one at a time. Personally I'd start with the driver's strut, but you could make an argument that the solenoid is the common point too
Thank you for th great video. I do have one weird problem with my hydraulic suspension and none of the garages here in Dubai are pretty knowledgeable about such things: my 2006 led 430 have the hydraulic suspension. The front left suspension gets low when the car is off and the suspension is in normal mode. However if I leave the car in high mode and turn it off, the suspension will still the same when I come back to the car even the next day. So in theory, is it the strut or the front solenoid that could be the culprit here? I’m at loss as I don’t want to go to any garage here and let him fiddle around and cause another problem with my car. I always try to make sure that I know the cause of the to avoid any extra damage when going to these guys. Thanks to anyone for any scan s help or suggestion.
@@daviderhardt1496 I suspect the OP has the issue both times, it just takes longer to manifest when there is more air in there to leak out. I really can't diagnose your vehicle any more, I cannot physically inspect it so any advice I have given is best guess based on your interpretation of the symptoms. if your mechanic cannot find the issue, you can either take it to another one, or replace the strut and solenoid valve. Used ones are not expensive (relative to the labour costs), it may be best to stop thinking and start doing.
Hello. Great video. I have a 2006 ls 430 the compressor for the suspension is not coming on. I've checked the fuses they are fine. Is there any way for me to test the compressor before I buy another ? What else would cause the compressor not to come on? Thanks in advance.
The compressor will not come on if the ECM thinks the car is already at the correct height. Ideally you should scan the car with Techstream to check what height readings it is seeing and for fault codes on the compressor circuit. A faulty compressor would seem most likely if you have checked the main compresspr fuse in the engine bay, but it is possible to be that the system simply thinks it doesn't need to turn on the compressor. You could bench test the compressor when removed from the car, off the top of my head I think it has two large wires for battery supply, and a couple of trigger wires. I recommend getting a wiring diagram and Techstream, or a cheap secondhand compressor to test with
Great video. Have an issue woth ls460. Driving on motorway at 70 for 30 is all ok but as slow to exit the front right suspension drops completely. After a few hours of normal driving or next day back to normal. Lexus dealership has checked everything and can't find any problem. No leaks height matched and calibrated. Doesn't always happen but when it dies its the same scenario. Any idea?
Hard to diagnose, but the lowering at speed does seem to be triggering it. If it returns to normal after a while, and does not deflate when left for a few days, a bag leak is unlikely. Possibly sensor fault (bad reading at one part of the sweep of the sensor), or front solenoid fault. Tempting to replace those two with good secondhand units. Unfortunately an inconsistent error like this, with no codes, is hard to give a definitive answer to. The Lexus manuals do have a bench-test procedure for height sensors, which would show up any odd behaviour.
Sorry I can't do a video on that. If your alternator needs replacing it's a simple job. Disconnect battery, remove the belt, undo the bolts holding the alternator and wiring to it, loosen the power steering loop near the alternator, then flop the alternator out onto the floor. If you have a right hand drive car you'll also need to loosen the sway bar, but don't need to do that for left hand drive cars like USA. It's a very easy job.
Yes you can swap in the entire struts (spring plus damper) on all four corners to convert your car to non-air. You must do all four, you cannot do one or two corners. You will need to also remove the main air compressor fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay to prevent errors (and the compressor from constantly running).
Quick question if anyone would be so kind as to answer - when you activate "Sport" mode and it actuates the stepper motor to alter the dampening as described. But - does that motor get used during normal driving or is it exclusively used for sport mode? I'm asking because I have an '05 LS430, and since I bought it second-hand back in 2018, I've never used Sport mode at all(should have tried this before buying it!). I'm worried that if I try sport mode, those old motors haven't been used for a while, and something might break or get stuck in a certain position, and I don't want to have to fix anything as a result. But, I'm curious to try out sport mode - does anyone have any knowledge (not opinons) on this? P.S. Excellent video , thanks! - I love my LS430, I've had BMW, Merc and Jag, but the LS is the best.
You're probably overthinking this. The change with sport mode is pretty subtle, you may not even notice it. "Sport" is a strong word for a LS430! The motors are also in locations well away from water and debris so are unlikely to fail.
@@LS430VIP Thank you! I've just tried this as you clearly know your stuff about the LS430 suspension, and I've just taken mine out for a drive to try out sport mode. It worked great - firmed up, not quite as floaty over the bumps, cornered with less roll, and it could be me, but the throttle response also felt a bit more keen. As in, no extra outright power of course, but it seemed to want to give extra grunt more willingly at lower revs. Thanks for your help, hope you release some more LS430 videos in the future! 👍
great video, have few questions. Here in middle east, spare parts are fairly cheap. OEM used air sus go for around $100 for all corners, but the normal ones go for double. its common to change bags to coils, but i have no idea why. So my questions are: Does the compressor work overtime you turn on the car? cus its very noisy Is the ride comfort the same, or bags are noticeably better? And most important question, i dont have the buttons you should in the video, but i found wires and covers next to the top of my suspension, does that mean i can install bags but i cant control them ? Not really interested in controlling them as long as the ride is comfortable, but i want to make sure that it works on my car. Sorry for the long comment, much apricated
I'm not sure I understand all your questions but: If your compressor is noisy then you probably just need to change the three mounting bushings on it. I've not tried the spring version but I hear that the ride comfort is almost identical. If you don't have air suspension already I really wouldn't bother adding it, as you will also need every single item shown in the video (ECM, actuators, switches, compressor and so on). You will also need a lot of the tubes that connect everything, it will be a difficult job to do. It will not make the comfort much better than springs. If you do not install absolutely everything, then the bags will be flat and it will be as if you have four flat tyres, the ride quality will be unbearably bad.
@@LS430VIP im not installing the whole system from ground up, the car apparently was already on bags from the factory, but the previous owner changed it to coils. So all what im gonna do is, get 4 air suspension and hook them.
@@K0J0K I see. As long as the other components are still working, then it should be possible, hopefully the previous owner did not cut the hoses to remove the suspension. The compressor may also be damaged if it has run constantly (they could have removed the fuse for it to disable it).
hello sir... i have been all over the internet looking for a video on this particular air suspension... If you dont mind can you tell us the stock size of the that air line.. is it 4mm or 6.5mm? Then how would you go about the actual replacement the airline into the Strut assembly? How is the air line attached or fixed. I would really want to know and will really appreciate your reply on this.
The factory air line is tiny, about 2mm internal diameter. The factory lines all have barbs moulded on the end which attaches into a proprietary connector. There's a special tool to remove them, or you can make one out of a short length of hard plastic tube. Slips over the line and then pushes into the connector to release two tabs.
Is it a straight forward push and pull, some latch and locking mechanism or is there a screw mechanism to secure the airline into the Air-shock. Thanks
@@seanlovi8798 there is a raised section on the pipe, and two clip things on the connector that latched over it, they are just pushed out of the way by sliding something down the length of the pipe. No screws
First of all thank you very much for getting back to me on this one man.. i ordered a set of airshocks for my Toyota crown and i needed to know how to put in my airlines... The video you linked me too helped a ton man, . even described a DIY hack.. thank you very much Sir.
Hello again. I have now set the ride height sensors and thought that would be the end of my issues, however, it’s created other issues. Previously my suspension was high on the front and low on the back. Now I’ve set the sensors, one of the fronts looks about right and one of the backs looks about right. One front is still too high and one back is still too low. Would that suggest I need to replace those two sensors? Or does the whole system need to be reset with Lexus software? Or is there another issue I am missing. Also now I’ve reset all the sensors the steering wheel is off centre. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
Assuming you have not badly adjusted the sensors (and none are physically bent/broken), this points to one or more sensors giving bad reading. The best solution would be to scan the car with Techstream to see what the live readings from each sensor are, and then replace the bad one.
I have a Lexus rx300 where the compressor runs till it get hot and cuts off then the rear suspension drops. Rx300 compressor it at the back and the front rear control solinoid is by the rear diff. My is so rust I think the leak is bad and the compressor can’t keep up.
Yes you must have a bad leak somewhere. Spray very soapy water on all of the solenoids and joints until you find a place where you see bubbles from a leak.
@@LS430VIP if the suspension is aired up and the solenoids close the air should stay but mine leaks out. My understanding is that the only way air can escape is from a leak or the ecu opens the solinoid and exhaust valve. Today I check both rear air bags and no leaks but sometimes only the pass rear inflated and then both but as soon as compressor stopped the car dropped slowly. I check with Lexus today and the rear control valve is over £400. My rear valve is similar to the front valve in your video. Thanks for your reply and making such and amazing informative video 👍👍
The mounts on them are not the same so they are not interchangeable. You may be able to cobble something together to make them work but they are not bolt-in compatible. I think also the front one has an extra port for the pass-through to the rear.
Hi, to set the height sensors is there a dimension from wheel centre or the ground up to the wheel arch, or something along those lines? Or do you simply set the arms level with the car on level ground? Many thanks
Factory setting on the rear is to set the bolt on the bottom of the arm to the middle of the slot on the suspension arm. On the front, the factory setting is roughly 92mm of exposed skinny shaft between the locking nuts on the arms.
Hi Peter! Is there a way to air air to the system with a dead vehicle? The engine is blown and I need to get the front up to get it on my lift. Can you jump the relay to get the pump going? This is a 96 LS400 with only front bags. I'm having a time finding information.
No you cannot just jump the relay as the solenoids would be closed so there would be nowhere for the air to go I'm afraid. You would need to hotwire the solenoid live too, not sure where it is on a LS400, but on a 430 you would need to remove front bumper and hotwire the solenoid and compressor. It would be easier to just jack up the front of the car and put a small block of wood between the upper control arm and strut top to space it out temporarily while you move it on to the lift
@@LS430VIP , I ended up splicing into the air line adding a schrader valve to air the suspension up. I had to splice into each side to blow up the bags independently. I spliced in just past the air line leading into each bag. It didn't take very long at all.
Not yet, but I am planning to replace it with aftermarket air suspension. There are many air and spring options on the market, check with your local suspension suppliers
Sorry, know a couple of people with Crowns but I'm not that familiar with the platform. If it thinks it's high when it's not, I'd start with the dashboard switch, then checking the sensors. You really need a copy of Techstream software, and set the software region to Japan for Crown.
Most likely a loss of damping (shock absorber) on one or more of the shocks. Inspect for fluid leakage down the shock or at the top mount. You can also perform the usual bounce test on each corner of the car to check it settles back correctly and doesn't continue bouncing. Replace any failed shocks, they are not serviceable.
Thanks for your response... I will check that out. It seems odd that the shocks would go bad for only having 50,000 miles on the car... being these shocks cost around $2,500 per shock.
@@johnkanduit2144 True, although you have to remember that these cars are now 17-23 years old, and in that time parts will deteriorate. Rubber seals particularly will harden and become brittle with age, and that is somewhat unavoidable, even on a quality product.
You should be able to hear (and feel with your hand) it running, when the car engine is running. But yeah if you are testing it on the bench, you should just be able to give +/- power to the large wire connectors to turn on. Looking at the wiring diagram for a 430, the compressor has trigger + on light blue, and trigger - on brown. The manual states not to run the compressor in a bench test for more than 60 seconds, and to stop immediately if it doesn't run instantly. The compressor may also get hot while running. It'll be high amperage so use a car battery, not a bench power supply.
@@LS430VIP Thank you. Just got my car back from a local tech and I mistakenly had him check the rear suspension. Dry rot of the “boot” was found. Issue now is compressor doesn’t turn on at all. Never had that problem before.
@@medicalnegligence I'd check the compressor fuse (marked air sus in one of the cabin footwells), and also the air suspension compressor relay and other fuse which are in the fuse box under the hood/bonnet. If all that looks good I'd be sending the car back to be made right.
It's not bad at all, just 20 years old. Added to that, not many people understand air suspension compared to springs, so there's a "fear of the unknown" element to it too. Hopefully this video demystifies it for people.
Pinning a couple of extra notes:
- The system will log DTC codes if it detects wiring problems on the solenoids, compressor, actuators or sensors. You can read these codes through TechStream software.
- The system takes other inputs over the car's CAN system, from acceleration sensors, engine ECU, the pre-collision system (facelift models with PCS option), steering angle sensor and ABS system. For the purpose of brevity I've omitted these inputs, so just know that it does some fancy things to constantly adjust for the best ride and to improve safety during a crash.
Great video.
I have an issue that the rode is extremely stiff. Seems as if you're driving on stones.
Have changed all components one by one but doesn't change the ride quality.
Any suggestions on what could be wrong? I'm willing to go over the whole system again to be able to diagnose and fix the issue.
Thanks for that detailed review of the system.
I have a question.
Where and how have you disabled costant adjustment of suspension using inputs from different sensors and systems?
In particular, where in the thechstream software do I go to and what should be deactivated?
Thanks for the info!
@@googlename7141 you cannot disable parts of the system with Techstream, it requires all inputs to function.
@@LS430VIPOk, thank you for your kind reply.
Do have any experience in adjusting the ride hight of LS430 other then using shorter links between body and level sensors? It must be possible, at least in theory, to do it using techstream, no manipulation on the hardware.
Any advice on this matter?
@@googlename7141 I'd shorten the adjusters personally, by a maximum of around 15mm in length. Any more and you are likely to suffer from underinflation, which will lead to a crashy ride as it will slam into the end of travel of the shocks. If you want to go very much lower you will need aftermarket suspension, as you can only remove so much air before you have none to absorb bumps.
Please keep making videos! I honestly believe the LS430 is one of the greatest sedans in history, and it deserves the love.
Wow I don’t usually comment on videos but this was super thorough and well done. 10/10
My LS430 UL had the rear left strut fail by catastrophically bursting. It was something out of a movie. The rear end kept raising up and up and up and getting more stiff. I knew the car was over-inflating the rear but I wasn't sure why. I suspected a bad sensor but I was 2 hours from home. The rear left ended up bursting like a shotgun and I had to drive the car slammed in the rear. THANKFULLY the car could drive with tire clearance in the rear. What a sight this was... I ended up replacing all four air struts with conventional spring and dampeners.
Great video. Thanks!
Brilliant video. Thank you so much for the detailed walk through of the system. I have a much better understanding of the workings now.
It is rare for me to comment on Fido, but your way of explaining, responding to comments, and spending your effort and time to help people greatly amazed me and prompted me to comment. You are wonderful, man. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Greetings to you from Germany.
Thanks for your kind words, and I hope the video helped
Great vid Peter and information thank you man. I’m due to get a 430 soon so good to know more about the car and the set up. Many thanks 👍👍
Just picked up an 20year old ... rear right is lower then other and ratte sounds from the compressor... thank u for ur Information and hints ... very well done ... one of the best learning vids ob yt ... greetings from germany !
Glad to help. Part number for the compressor bushings ( that usually stop the rattle) are in the description.
i have a 2004 ls430 that i purchased from the original owner of whom i knew. It had 305000kms when i picked it up and has the air suspension. This car has been BY FAR the most reliable car i've ever owned. Air suspension was replaced on all corners by original owner at 180,000kms. I currently have 420,000kms on this vehicle and had to have the 'tabs" on the lateral arms on the rear welded back on as they did break off (as mentioned in this video). The rear height sensor arms become stiff over the years of salt and cold winters as mine did and they finally were too stiff to move around and broke the tabs off. Had them zip tied up for a few weeks until my mechanic was able to weld them on with some "used" height sensors i picked up off eBay. Car ran well for a few months but now having an issues with the rear inflating to stiff and the ride becoming very hard. So, either it's the exhaust solenoid at the front which discharged excess air according to height or it's the rear sensors that my mechanic fooled around with to get a level he was comfortable with. Sometimes the car will go back to level ride, but it's been more stiff than not and i'll have to crawl under it and see.
Otherwise, this car has been nothing but a dream to own and drive. I have a 300 F-Sport as well, and while that car handles amazing, i find myself driving in the LS for the room and comfort more times than not.
Thanks for the great video, you are bang on in your information!
Thanks for the comment, hope you found some useful info in the video. With regards to your problem, the exhaust solenoid is shared by front and back, so I would expect issues with the front as well if it was that. I'd lean towards your used height sensors giving out. Good luck with the fix 👍
You are doing God's work! Thank you so much for these videos, your explanations make them very easy to follow.
Looking forward to more!
Thank you! I'm sure I'll post more stuff as bits come up
@@LS430VIP Bit cheeky of me, but I have an LS430 myself and wondered if you could help me with a query?
When sitting for around a day or two the rear right seems to drop a little lower than the rest, I have not had a chance to look under the car properly but do you think it could be the rear solenoids as you said in the video? It doesn't seem to be "sagged" as such like I've seen on many 2000 Mercedes S classes, but a fair bit lower than the other side which seems fine to me.
Again, I've not yet been able to look into it further, but I will soon and take measurements, as well as looking at the rear control arm sensors.
Thanks again!
@@James_Smith489 sounds like a small leak, I'd check the rear solenoid pair first as they do corrode. Could be just starting to go so only leaking from one side/edge yet. The bag is also possible, but check the solenoid first with lots of soapy water.
@@LS430VIP Cheers! I'll let you know when I have more information, thanks for the quick responses!
@@James_Smith489 no problem. Might be useful to set the suspension to High before you check it, it will then have a bit more pressure in the system so might find leaks a little easier.
I'm so glad I removed this from my LS 430. It was a constantly failing headache.
If you want to know what a reliable car looks like there is only the Land Cruiser. It sucks that Toyota has to include extremely problematic tech like air suspension in some of their high end cars.
excellent explanation like pro. Thank you so much
Hi Peter! I was really excited to see your video since I am having serious problems with my air suspension. Last year I have renewed all my airstruts (+5000 euro) since they were leaking oil. After that I went on a trip from 1500km. The day I went home the ride became extremely harsh like an extremely lowered car and the car was lifted as well. There were 4 DTC's on the struts and one other but I lost all the info on this because of an error in my diagnose-tool. The DTC's didn't came back again. When I turn the car off on again the car lowers itself to the original ridehight. After driving a few seconds the car raises itself and becomes directly harsh again. The crazy thing here is that the car isnt exactly as harsh anymore as when the problem occured. Its absolutely not comfortable like it should be originally but its really not extremely harsh. The car is still raised though. The sport button is also not working anymore since this error. Normally I always drive in sport and thats really super comfortable with my car... its just the very perfect sweetspot between maximum comfort and safe steering. When I putted it in normal mode I found it a bit to boaty on the highway and dont get me wrong. I really love that! The only thing is that the floating can get dangerous when the road is bumpy or with sidewind or juist on busy roads. The sport button really takes that slightly uncontrollable feeling away for me. Anyway. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? I almost bought 4 new original sensors but they are 550 euro's each over here so I didnt do that + the risk of having a bad solenoid 2x 550 euro or maybe the computer is broken or some other difficult part? Where is the end of investing loads of money..... I connected my IT2 tester and disconnected every sensor from the control arm and rolled the sensor up and down. They where all showing their numbers directly when I twisted the arm on the sensor. Not one behaved strangely. I really hope you can help me out since you know so much about this system!
I'd recommend getting a copy of Techstream with a bidirectional cable. That will allow you to view all the live data, and also to actuate some of the parts to perform active tests on them. Your problem is certainly an unusual one, I did see you post this elsewhere. I can also send you over a copy of the factory workshop manual if you send me over your email address, it's got further diagnostic info.
@@LS430VIP Hey Peter, thanks for your reply! Can we make a skype call? I can tell you way more details. I did already did a live read out and I made pictures of them.
Also worth mentioning that if you disconnect components while it is running, the system may detect a fault and refuse to run for 10 minutes. A subsequent failure can disable the system for 70 minutes.
@@LS430VIP I did many tests but still no result....
@@St.Moritz hi, I'm not really willing to do a video call, but if you send me your email address I'll send over the manual, and you can send over any screenshots for me to look at.
Thanks so much for your video it is very informative.
My 04 UL seems to be functioning correctly and the ride is nice and soft at low speeds. I notice the right rear wheel is about an inch lower than the left when at rest. After watching your video I suspect the height sensor.
Sometimes it's just the sensor arm having slid down the adjusting slot, look under the car from the rear to see if both sides are at the same spot on the slot.
My right rear has always sagged too. I even replaced my right rear and it still always looked the same. I'm gonna need to check my sensors.
How many miles do you have?
So over all seems pretty reliable. The failure points that you mentioned amounted to bushings and certain components not being protected from debris. So all the money people spent switching to coil overs could have easily been saved just by addressing those few issues. 🤦♂️
Very well explained!❤
Thanks for sharing!👍
Another great video Peter, thanks!
THX U
VERY PROFESSIONAL
SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME
Thank you for the breakdown of the system, bought a ls 460 recently and have a background in heavy diesel engines/tractor trailer. Why does car air system not have any check valve or redundant components for safety similar to class 8 tractor trailers, which have a complete mechanical air ride system except for the air dump valve that's optional and temporary overinflation valve, would it be safer to build a mechanical system and then layer a electrical system over it.
Example a electric air pump maintain a fixed pressure in a air tank. Then 2/4 lines with check valves route to the suspension and two mechanical and two electric ride hight control arms.
Should the compressor filter be changed out?
Lexus do not mention it on the service schedule. I would only change it if you are in a very dusty environment (desert etc.) It is a small box near the compressor behind the front bumper.
excellent - many thanks!
Good information!
Glad you found it useful!
Hello. Do I have to lubricate my air strut ? Recently replaced and one of them is squeaking. Air ride. 2008 LS 600hL. Thanks
No lubricant is needed, you should check that everything has been installed and tightened properly.
Great video thank you for sharing
I NEED HELP!
Has some guys change lower control arm and suspension went out. Changed out air struts and now they’re not lifting. What is it?
Excellent ! Thankyou
No worries!
Very very helpful
Glad it helped
My 07 LS460 left side low ( ft and r) right side high , front and rear, why.?
Most likely a broken height sensor.
Fantastic video! Thank you. Can I ask a question? I'm about to undertake putting my LS430 back on a set of factory air suspension. The car had been switched over to coilovers by the previous owner. They're far too stiff for me, and I love the car so much, and it would be so cool to have it back on air struts. Beside removing and replacing the struts, I assume they disabled the compressor somehow. However, both fuses and the relay for the air suspension are in place, and appear intact. Besides unplugging the electrical connection to the compressor, is there any other way the would have disabled it? I assume it may also have just failed.
The car doesn't give any suspension errors on the dash, and the sports light comes on when I put in in sports suspension mode, and the high ride height message comes on when I flip that button. I appreciate any tips your may have!
I'd definitely check the compressor connections first, or it could be faulty. You could also check the connectors to the air suspension ECU behind the glovebox, although I suspect that is connected as the buttons work as you mentioned.
You won't see a lot of faults on the dashboard, a scan with Techstream would help see what is working and not.
@@LS430VIP I did a bit more troubleshooting. I checked conductivity of both of the air suspension fuses, which were good. I managed to get to the compressor, which was still connected. I unplugged it, and there is a much thicker wire in the connector, which I assume is the 12V. I never read more that 300 millivolts on it. Next, I pulled the air suspension relay, and I read 3.5-3.8V across the smaller terminals, but basically zero across the larger terminals, assuming they should be12V. I played around some more, and plugged the compressor back in. At that point, I was able to read 12V across the larger relay terminals. I assume there's some kind of fail-safe that if the compressor is disconnected, it won't request the 12V anymore. As plugging and unplugging yields that kind of change in the high relay voltage, I assume that means the remaining connections are good, and it is a dead compressor.
@@plamenpetkov5723 having the 12v om the big wires but no compressor does strongly point to a broken compressor. Also, I assume you are testing with the engine turned on?
Thank you. I have an LS400 (1995, 2nd generation). Since a week or so the rear has been acting weird. It decides to sit very low. When i started in one day it almost bottomed out and for the days after that it practically was, even when driving it for a bit. Then days later i drove a bit to put it on a tow truck and it suddenly sat at a normal height. At one point i started in, it lifted itself up and then immediately went back down at the same speed. The lexus dealer said the struts are worn out and need to be replaced, but this can’t be the only direct issue right?
Hard to diagnose over the internet. If the compressor is running when the car is running but car is not raising, suspect a strut leak. If compressor is not running, suspect a height sensor.
Should there be play in the height sensor? Thanks for the video, very resourceful. I've got a small knocking sound when going over bumps. There was also a creaking that when turning the steering all the way. Lubing up the control arms mostly fixed the squeaking but the knocking is still present. Hoping the air struts do not need to be replaced.
Just saw the fault finding segment. I guess the struts need to change.
@@sahibgaba1 it's possible. Also check for play in the bottom suspension arm rear mount, as that is a common bush to fail and can cause knocking.
@@LS430VIP thank you for your help. You truly put out a great video. So the bottom suspension arm rear mount connects to the wheel and the rest of the car. When I put WD-40 on the part that connects to the rest of the car, I think that's when the squeaking pretty much stopped. Knocking still exists however. Could be multiple things failing but I will check it out tomorrow, and I'm hoping its just the bushing. I'm guessing I'd have to take it apart to really figure out what's wrong if there's no visible damage.
The previous owner had the front struts and all control arms replaced 1.5 years ago, so all of these issues are coming in as a huge surprise.
Is it possible that one broken height sensor would cause both front and back wheels on one side to appear low?
It's possible, one or both broken. The damage may or may not be obvious, I'd start with a physical look at them for breakage, and after that get the car scanned with Techstream to read the sensor values.
Thank you very helpful
Great video many thanks. Can I just ask, if you replace the solenoids or the ride height sensors, is there any adjustments needed? Or will it just find itself through the ECU? Many thanks
They're not coded to the car so can be just swapped in.
@@LS430VIP great. I thought they might need adjusting to existing levels etc. thanks 🙏
@@MrNPJM as long as you make sure the sensor arm lengths match on both sides you should be fine.
On my LS when i put it in high mode it only raises the front otherwise the rear sits at normal height and doesn't sink over time
Any ideas
I can't think of any components that would cause that. Have you carefully measured the gap before and after on level ground? High mode does not add much, I think less than an inch.
Brilliant video. Is there any diagnostic software to check the readings of the height sensors?
Yes, see my pinned comment - you can read the live values through TechStream
@@LS430VIP brilliant. Thanks 👍🏼
Techstream video will be much appreciated. I try to leveling my car using the data from techstream, but even when the values was set to equal mm, the car continue to be unleveled. Front left it's up and the rear right it's down.
@@dapetkov I would start by putting your sensor heights back to factory lengths, then running the car for a few minutes and then checking levels + reading values. The rear sensors should be put in the middle of the slot, and the front ones should have 92mm of skinny shaft exposed between the two nuts. I put a picture of the measurement in this thread: www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/133078-ls430-air-suspension-harsh-feeling-15-cm-high-error/
Once you know that the car is as it should be from the factory, it will be easier to see what sensors if any are giving false information.
@@LS430VIP Thanks for your reply. Do you know if zero point calibration is needed after setting the sensors to the factory position?
I appreciate this video. You really go into great detail. Im actually in the middle of buying a 05. The problem im having is, does the system last? The car has 197k miles. I know that doesnt mean much with these cars. Im worried ill have problems with the bags. Should that be a worry? I appreciate you.. thanks
The car is 18 years old. Problems are inevitable. It's the same amount of worry as a spring and shock on a regular vehicle, after 18 years a blown shock or snapped spring will happen eventually. You shouldn't expect a car that old to have no issues, but the air suspension is no worse than any other part, it's just poorly understood.
@@LS430VIP that is exactly what I wanted to know. I appreciate you to the fullest. Wanted to know if they are as reliable as springs. Should've just said it that way. Thanks again..
@ls430vip ok, one more for ya. Base model or loaded? Are one of them more reliable. I understand there is more to go wrong in the elite. I guess I just answered my question.
I I'm the middle of 2 cars. One is a base for 8k the other an elite for 11500. Both are in great condition. The elite is priced a few grand over but it's so clean. The base i can get for a few grand under value. I guess i answered my own question again. . I'm lost. Haha don't want to make another bad decision. I'm so tired of bad decisions.
Very nice video!
I’ve got a pre-facelift LS430 with original air suspension. Just reached 234.000 km, all on original parts.
I’ve noticed the air compressor kicks in about once a week for about 5 seconds, then shuts off. It happens on idle when I reach a stop sign or red light. I’ve read that it’s normal for the compressor to kick in, but not too often. Also, All 4 sides of the car look normal after being parked for many hours.
Could an uneven road cause the compressor to run, in my case when I reach a red light, where the front is a bit higher than the rear of the car, due to a small slope in the road?
The 430 will actually air down slightly at highway speeds to improve aerodynamics, and air up again when you slow back down to town speeds, so it's normal for the compressor to kick in at stop lights etc. in those circumstances. It should be hard to hear though, I suspect you just need to replace the little bushes that hold the compressor on to quieten it down (part number in description).
@@LS430VIPSorry I forgot to mention. It’s usually after a few minutes after a cold start in the morning, after approx 15 hours resting. Compressor does not kick in right after starting, but after a few minutes when I reach a stop light, engine is still cold though. Happens usually once a week.
The compressor itself is pretty hard to hear, but I can feel it slightly in the brake pedal at stop sign.
Can this be considered normal behavior?
@@ThePerfectionOfLexus sounds normal to me. Again with the vibration, I'd consider replacing the bushings, but honestly it's not a big deal to leave them alone.
Which components of the air suspension need replacement if the rear suspension height always remains lower than the front suspension height. Will highly appreciate your kind feedback. Many thanks in advance.
Without physically inspecting the car I cannot say for certain. I would advise you to view the video and draw your own conclusions. I would start by inspecting the rear height sensors, and checking for large leaks at the rear distribution solenoid (if the difference in height is very large and you have no suspension travel on the rear remaining).
If it is only slightly lower (maybe 30mm or less difference than the front), then the rear sensors probably just need adjustment.
It is also possible that both rear bags have failed, but less likely than the other options.
Again, I cannot diagnose this without the car present. Either use the knowledge in this video to diagnose the problem yourself, or take the car to a professional.
Thanks for the swift response. It is 30mm or less.
@@dr.ahsanhussain4382 probably the adjuster on the arm of the rear suspension sensor has slipped down a little in the slot, it will need to be undone and moved back up to centre of the slot.
I have a 09 ls460 and i put a spacer and new Ir shock and for some reason my passenger side will lift fully. My driver side will not lift at all
Big leak or broken height sensor.
Great video. The passenger side rear strut leaks down over two days, and it sounds like there's an owl in the boot as we drive over bumps. Any thoughts on the sound, and could the rear solenoid only affect one rear strut? Many thanks for the thorough report!
It's possible, but I'd say the strut is more likely, especially given the noise. Have a good look around the strut for signs of damage to the bag or oil leakage.
@LS430VIP Great Video! I have a quick question, I own a 2004 Lexus LS 430 Ultra Luxury with the Height Adjustable Air Suspension, and would like to know how to replace them. Of course the hardware of replacing the actual strut is straightforward, but disconnecting the air lines is my concern. Do you have a way to remove the air lines without damage to them? I'm having trouble with finding a video on how to do so and would like further information before I pull the trigger on the purchase. Thanks!
They're a bit fiddly to remove for sure. First pinch together the outer (pale white plastic) connector and slide it away up the line. Now the inner part is the tricky part, there are two barbs holding the line in. Some people use two screwdrivers to lever them out of the way but I don't recommend that as you can damage plastic parts. I instead cut a small piece of plastic pipe about 1-2" (25-50mm) that would be large enough to fit over the air line, then cut a small slit down the side of it so it can be inserted over the air line. Then slide it down into the strut connector pushing it in hard and it will push the barbs apart and the line will release.
If you don't have a piece of stiff plastic pipe in the right size, I've even used a pen before cut up.
Hi, I've had my ls600 height disconnected whilst cleaning and underselling, now re connected and the car is stuck in high position..can you
If you have run the car with the wheels off the ground or the sensors disconnected then the car may have disabled the system as a failsafe. If so, it will reset eventually, or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes may force a reset.
If it doesn't reset, you will need to scan the car with Techstream to see if one of the sensors is malfunctioning.
Thanks for taking the time to explain
Good run down now i can do some basic diagnosis.... also any idea on how how i can completely deflate the bags and leave them deflated not interested in Ride quality or comfort what si ever i want it boned on its ass without spending a dime on aftermarket suspension .... got the car ls460 for a song it owes me nothing and i like it enough to drive every now and again also i don't care if i damage anything....but would like to "raise it up In case i come across the law ie some sort of cowboy pneumatic valve or removing a fuse and putting it back in .....any dodge advice is greatly appreciated
Honestly I wouldn't recommend running with no air, it's likely to really screw with your traction in corner bumps.
I'd recommend getting an air suspension data controller, it will allow you to set the height however you want and raise and lower it.
03 ls430 UL. My rear is lower than the front. I can hear the compressor turn on and off but nothing ever happens. There are notes from previous mechanic that suspension is leaking. If just one or 2 struts went bad would that cause none of them to raise or lower?
If the leak is large enough, the compressor won't be able to keep up with the amount of air lost so yeah it would stay low. I'd check the rear struts and distribution block with soapy water and for rips on the bags. Also, read the comments on here, loads of commenters have had issues with rear leaks so it's been covered before in my replies. Lot of useful info in the comments.
Good info! Thanks a lot. Do you have any idea where the small hose is for thats attached to the compressor housing? It goes the same direction as the thicker hose that is the inlet of the compressor. Would like to know!
As far as I can tell, this is the over-pressure relief hose, if the pressure in the system exceeds what the compressor can handle then I think it will blow by the compressor piston and exit this pipe. I'm not 100% positive on that though, it isn't documented in the factory manuals, I think it just connects to the little filter near the thicker input hose. An over-pressure scenario could happen if for example you entirely filled the car with concrete blocks, far exceeding the load capacity of the vehicle. The suspension would try to level out but the pressures in the system would get dangerously high without a relief system. The manual mentioned a relief pressure of 142 psi, and that it will throw a code in that scenario, but it detects that code based on the compressor running for too long, there is no sensor for pressure so it's likely a simple blow-by system, the ECM does not get a PSI reading, only height readings.
Amazing video! You are well informed on this system. I have a 2002 ls430 with the air suspension. The previous owner replaced the 2 rear air suspension with Arnott brand about 2 years ago and less than 8k miles ago. However I have been hearing rattling sound coming from the rear when going over bumps. I replaced the stabilizer links in the back thinking they might be the problem but the sound didn't go away. It's like a bad strut sound and I'm positive it's from the rear suspension. But they aren't leaking and they are fairly new and arnott is a reputable brand. However, the height of the car from the rear looks lower than the front. What do you think is causing this sound? Thnx
Hard to say, could be a problem with how it's installed, you would need to do further investigation to find the source of the noise. It's not unusual for them to sit a little higher at the front (an inch or less higher), you can usually adjust the rear sensors on their slot to adjust it back to level.
@@LS430VIP
Do you happen to have the lexus part number for the REAR solenoid?
@@hassansmw5634 it might be 48096-50040, you should check with the dealer or look up your model year on amayama.com
Question please. BTW. this is an amazing video, exactly what I've been hoping to find. I have a '97 Century which appears to have mostly identical components. My problem is right front corner drops after sitting for days. Airs right back up and ride is fine. Soap hasn't shown a leak. I'm starting to believe that the splitter valve has a seal going. Other than rolling the air lines coming from the value is there a way to determine if this value might seal might have a bit of blow by occurring?
Not really any way to test for certain as you'd have to rig up some sort of high pressure test rig for the valve and monitor for pressure drop over days. I think for 430 the valves were about £150 from Amayama, so not insanely expensive for a genuine Toyota/Lexus part.
@@LS430VIP thanks for a super quick response. So I'm gathering you feel this might be a reasonable thought as to the failure I'm experiencing. I'm going to be ordering some gaskets soon and will just include one of the valves. Massive thanks to you.
@@keithwood3783 yes it seems the most likely point of failure, if as you say the pipework and shocks have been tested with soap.
This is such a great video, and has helped me confirm my rear solenoid valve leak, thank you for sharing!
My problem is finding a replacement unit. Do you know of any aftermarket equivalents?
Glad the video helped. I don't believe any aftermarket part exists for this, but it is still available from Lexus new, or secondhand. I think the part number is 48096-50040 (but check with your dealer), and sells for around $200/£175
@@LS430VIP that's great, thanks for the info!
Hi, DTC code C1786 and C1787 could it be the cause of the high sensors going bad, as I installed all 4 air suspension from a working car but my car refuses to go up. I’m driving a 2004 ls430. :)
I think those codes are set if you don't switch the height switches (High and Sport) on and off during scanning, they just allow you to test the switch. I doubt they are the issue. I would advise you to get the car scanned on Techstream to check the live height sensor values.
Good information. But I still need some help. I have 1997 Toyota century, which is a very similar system as the Lexus LS. My Air suspension holds air very well until the any of the rear doors were opened. As soon as the door open, both of the rear suspension will sink very fast. I also noticed if I disconnect and then reconnect the battery, the rear suspension sink very fast as well. Do you know what is wrong with my car? Thank you.
I am not familiar with the Century system, so I can only guess. Is it possible that the compressor shuts off when the doors are opened? Perhaps you have a leak, which is making the compressor run for longer than it should, and it is only just keeping up with the air being lost by a leak?
@@LS430VIP Thank you for replying. I have the car sitting in my garage for a week and it hold air 100%, it did not even lower 1mm. But as soon as I open the rear door, the air comes out very quickly, I can hear the air blowing out from the rear of the car.
@@Zi_life_cars a very strange fault. Sorry, I don't know enough about the Century system to advise why that might happen.
Hi
If the LS430 sits higher on the Front what would you recommend ? To drop it about 1-Inch to match the Rear
Great Video
Pretty normal, the rear sensor link arms walk down the slot over time so the back sits a little lower. Assuming it's only a small difference, and you still have working suspension, you can undo the adjustment nuts on the front sensor arms and twist them to shorten. Take before and after measurements, I'd keep to less than half inch shortening of the arm on front, to keep a bit of comfort. A half inch at the sensor arm will drop the wheel more than an inch, you'll need to play around with what's a good amount to adjust.
Great video!
I have had my 04 LS430 UL for more than 16 years and just now I had to replace the front airbags because the shocks in them gave up. But now my front left dropps down in an instant while driving with no air leaks that I can hear. Looked up a lot of forums but no luck finding anything similar to my problem. I would really appreciate if you find the time to give me some advice on a possible issue if you can. The front left just goes competley down and the car is undrivable when it happens.
If the compressor is running (while engine is on) and that side has dropped, that indicates a large air leak that the car is trying to pump back up, check for leaks carefully.
If the compressor is NOT running, that indicates that the car has received a bad reading from one of the height sensors and thinks it is level when it is not. Test height sensors and replace the faulty one.
@@LS430VIP Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I will be checking it in morning. I hope Techstream will help me with this problem.
@@LS430VIP You were right. Techstream gave me C1726 for LF sensor and C1751 for the air compressor running often. I will replace the sensor and hope for the best.
Thanks again for your help!
@@bradata111 glad to hear it, Techstream is such a help for diagnosis
Hello brother I have a Lexus LS400 1995 and it has a problem with this system please talk to me to describe the problem to you
I don't know the 400 that well but you can ask questions on here
Hi
What an awesomely geeky video, love it!
Please help. LS430 all original, FLSH, 95k.
I can bounce the front easily by pushing on the wings. The rear has much more resistance. Does little compression resistance mean failed air shocks?
Nearside is always higher than offside, in both high and low. When I go high, the amount raised is different on all 4 corners. Should all 4 raise the same or does it have a built in spirit level type system?
There is a bit of oil on top of the front shocks where the sport actuators are.
All the suspension components look original. When I manoeuvre slowly on full lock I get clunks from the front. If RH lock the clunk is from the left. LH lock the clunk is from the right.
Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
If there is fluid escaping from the shocks then that is damper fluid, so that will explain the bounciness. Those shocks that are leaking will need to be replaced. I would start with that, as they will cause harsh ride and probably knocking too.
You should also look at the bushes at the rear of the front lower arms. These can be seen by looking under the car behind the front wheel, they often wear out and cause clunking.
Small height differences between corners are not unusual, all the height sensors have adjustment on them to tweak this.
@@LS430VIP brilliant, thank you that’s a great help
I'm trying to diagnose my 01 ls430, if I leave it off overnight the driver front strut completely deflates, after 3 days both front struts completely deflate. I've checked for leaks on all hoses, bags and solenoid with soapy water and can't find a leak.
The leak must be there somewhere, sometimes they can be very hard to find. If you still can't find it and the solenoid or struts are available secondhand then I would replace them one at a time. Personally I'd start with the driver's strut, but you could make an argument that the solenoid is the common point too
Thank you for th great video.
I do have one weird problem with my hydraulic suspension and none of the garages here in Dubai are pretty knowledgeable about such things: my 2006 led 430 have the hydraulic suspension. The front left suspension gets low when the car is off and the suspension is in normal mode. However if I leave the car in high mode and turn it off, the suspension will still the same when I come back to the car even the next day. So in theory, is it the strut or the front solenoid that could be the culprit here? I’m at loss as I don’t want to go to any garage here and let him fiddle around and cause another problem with my car. I always try to make sure that I know the cause of the to avoid any extra damage when going to these guys. Thanks to anyone for any scan s help or suggestion.
I would suspect the strut, I would change that first, it is an easy job on the front.
@@LS430VIP I thought so, just wanted a second opinion to confirm. Thanks man
Why would it be ok in high but drop in normal?
@@daviderhardt1496 I suspect the OP has the issue both times, it just takes longer to manifest when there is more air in there to leak out.
I really can't diagnose your vehicle any more, I cannot physically inspect it so any advice I have given is best guess based on your interpretation of the symptoms. if your mechanic cannot find the issue, you can either take it to another one, or replace the strut and solenoid valve. Used ones are not expensive (relative to the labour costs), it may be best to stop thinking and start doing.
Hello. Great video. I have a 2006 ls 430 the compressor for the suspension is not coming on. I've checked the fuses they are fine. Is there any way for me to test the compressor before I buy another ? What else would cause the compressor not to come on? Thanks in advance.
The compressor will not come on if the ECM thinks the car is already at the correct height. Ideally you should scan the car with Techstream to check what height readings it is seeing and for fault codes on the compressor circuit.
A faulty compressor would seem most likely if you have checked the main compresspr fuse in the engine bay, but it is possible to be that the system simply thinks it doesn't need to turn on the compressor.
You could bench test the compressor when removed from the car, off the top of my head I think it has two large wires for battery supply, and a couple of trigger wires. I recommend getting a wiring diagram and Techstream, or a cheap secondhand compressor to test with
Thanks for the advice ! I'll check it out.
OME parts to after market part air 20:11 struts, should that be an issue one over the other !!!
There are aftermarket air struts that are designed to be a drop in replacement, they should be fine.
Great video. Have an issue woth ls460. Driving on motorway at 70 for 30 is all ok but as slow to exit the front right suspension drops completely. After a few hours of normal driving or next day back to normal. Lexus dealership has checked everything and can't find any problem. No leaks height matched and calibrated. Doesn't always happen but when it dies its the same scenario. Any idea?
Wonder if something to do with the automatic lowering at speed. When it tells.the suspension to rise again the front right let's all the air out.
Just to add no error codes show
Hard to diagnose, but the lowering at speed does seem to be triggering it. If it returns to normal after a while, and does not deflate when left for a few days, a bag leak is unlikely. Possibly sensor fault (bad reading at one part of the sweep of the sensor), or front solenoid fault. Tempting to replace those two with good secondhand units. Unfortunately an inconsistent error like this, with no codes, is hard to give a definitive answer to.
The Lexus manuals do have a bench-test procedure for height sensors, which would show up any odd behaviour.
Ok thanks. Yes Lexus are struggling. Would the solenoid affect both sides? Is there anyway to cancel the lowering at speed?
Presumably its the ECM that controls the lowering could it just tell one corner something different to the others?
can you do a walkthrough about the alternator not charging my lexus.. and no.. its not the brattery or fuses..
Sorry I can't do a video on that. If your alternator needs replacing it's a simple job. Disconnect battery, remove the belt, undo the bolts holding the alternator and wiring to it, loosen the power steering loop near the alternator, then flop the alternator out onto the floor. If you have a right hand drive car you'll also need to loosen the sway bar, but don't need to do that for left hand drive cars like USA. It's a very easy job.
Can you swap the LS430 spring set directly into one that came with air springs or is there additional parts needed?
Yes you can swap in the entire struts (spring plus damper) on all four corners to convert your car to non-air. You must do all four, you cannot do one or two corners.
You will need to also remove the main air compressor fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay to prevent errors (and the compressor from constantly running).
Quick question if anyone would be so kind as to answer - when you activate "Sport" mode and it actuates the stepper motor to alter the dampening as described. But - does that motor get used during normal driving or is it exclusively used for sport mode?
I'm asking because I have an '05 LS430, and since I bought it second-hand back in 2018, I've never used Sport mode at all(should have tried this before buying it!). I'm worried that if I try sport mode, those old motors haven't been used for a while, and something might break or get stuck in a certain position, and I don't want to have to fix anything as a result. But, I'm curious to try out sport mode - does anyone have any knowledge (not opinons) on this?
P.S. Excellent video , thanks! - I love my LS430, I've had BMW, Merc and Jag, but the LS is the best.
You're probably overthinking this. The change with sport mode is pretty subtle, you may not even notice it. "Sport" is a strong word for a LS430! The motors are also in locations well away from water and debris so are unlikely to fail.
@@LS430VIP Thank you! I've just tried this as you clearly know your stuff about the LS430 suspension, and I've just taken mine out for a drive to try out sport mode. It worked great - firmed up, not quite as floaty over the bumps, cornered with less roll, and it could be me, but the throttle response also felt a bit more keen. As in, no extra outright power of course, but it seemed to want to give extra grunt more willingly at lower revs.
Thanks for your help, hope you release some more LS430 videos in the future! 👍
great video, have few questions. Here in middle east, spare parts are fairly cheap.
OEM used air sus go for around $100 for all corners, but the normal ones go for double.
its common to change bags to coils, but i have no idea why.
So my questions are: Does the compressor work overtime you turn on the car? cus its very noisy
Is the ride comfort the same, or bags are noticeably better?
And most important question, i dont have the buttons you should in the video, but i found wires and covers next to the top of my suspension, does that mean i can install bags but i cant control them ? Not really interested in controlling them as long as the ride is comfortable, but i want to make sure that it works on my car.
Sorry for the long comment, much apricated
I'm not sure I understand all your questions but:
If your compressor is noisy then you probably just need to change the three mounting bushings on it.
I've not tried the spring version but I hear that the ride comfort is almost identical.
If you don't have air suspension already I really wouldn't bother adding it, as you will also need every single item shown in the video (ECM, actuators, switches, compressor and so on). You will also need a lot of the tubes that connect everything, it will be a difficult job to do. It will not make the comfort much better than springs. If you do not install absolutely everything, then the bags will be flat and it will be as if you have four flat tyres, the ride quality will be unbearably bad.
@@LS430VIP im not installing the whole system from ground up, the car apparently was already on bags from the factory, but the previous owner changed it to coils. So all what im gonna do is, get 4 air suspension and hook them.
@@K0J0K I see. As long as the other components are still working, then it should be possible, hopefully the previous owner did not cut the hoses to remove the suspension. The compressor may also be damaged if it has run constantly (they could have removed the fuse for it to disable it).
@@LS430VIP so after knowing the whole situation, what’s ur recommendation?
@@K0J0K inspect the whole system and see if it is all intact would be my recommendation.
What size are the size lines? 1/8? 1/4?
Smaller than 1/8" I think, they are tiny. They will almost certainly be metric
hello sir... i have been all over the internet looking for a video on this particular air suspension...
If you dont mind can you tell us the stock size of the that air line.. is it 4mm or 6.5mm?
Then how would you go about the actual replacement the airline into the Strut assembly?
How is the air line attached or fixed.
I would really want to know and will really appreciate your reply on this.
The factory air line is tiny, about 2mm internal diameter. The factory lines all have barbs moulded on the end which attaches into a proprietary connector. There's a special tool to remove them, or you can make one out of a short length of hard plastic tube. Slips over the line and then pushes into the connector to release two tabs.
Is it a straight forward push and pull, some latch and locking mechanism or is there a screw mechanism to secure the airline into the Air-shock.
Thanks
@@seanlovi8798 there is a raised section on the pipe, and two clip things on the connector that latched over it, they are just pushed out of the way by sliding something down the length of the pipe. No screws
@@seanlovi8798 There's a guide here: ruclips.net/video/jBSo94kBSU0/видео.html&ab_channel=DustyRoberts
First of all thank you very much for getting back to me on this one man.. i ordered a set of airshocks for my Toyota crown and i needed to know how to put in my airlines...
The video you linked me too helped a ton man, . even described a DIY hack.. thank you very much Sir.
Hello again. I have now set the ride height sensors and thought that would be the end of my issues, however, it’s created other issues.
Previously my suspension was high on the front and low on the back. Now I’ve set the sensors, one of the fronts looks about right and one of the backs looks about right. One front is still too high and one back is still too low.
Would that suggest I need to replace those two sensors? Or does the whole system need to be reset with Lexus software? Or is there another issue I am missing.
Also now I’ve reset all the sensors the steering wheel is off centre. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
Assuming you have not badly adjusted the sensors (and none are physically bent/broken), this points to one or more sensors giving bad reading. The best solution would be to scan the car with Techstream to see what the live readings from each sensor are, and then replace the bad one.
@@LS430VIP That’s a great help. Thank you so much.
I had a a sound. 2 times that sounds like the rear tire has exploded but I got out and all is good any idea ???
I'm afraid it could be many things, you will have to investigate it yourself.
Before that the guys changed my spark plugs and my abs l and brake lights are all on…. Before this the car didn’t have any problems.
I have a Lexus rx300 where the compressor runs till it get hot and cuts off then the rear suspension drops. Rx300 compressor it at the back and the front rear control solinoid is by the rear diff. My is so rust I think the leak is bad and the compressor can’t keep up.
Yes you must have a bad leak somewhere. Spray very soapy water on all of the solenoids and joints until you find a place where you see bubbles from a leak.
@@LS430VIP if the suspension is aired up and the solenoids close the air should stay but mine leaks out. My understanding is that the only way air can escape is from a leak or the ecu opens the solinoid and exhaust valve. Today I check both rear air bags and no leaks but sometimes only the pass rear inflated and then both but as soon as compressor stopped the car dropped slowly. I check with Lexus today and the rear control valve is over £400. My rear valve is similar to the front valve in your video.
Thanks for your reply and making such and amazing informative video 👍👍
Are the front and rear air control solenoids interchangeable.
The mounts on them are not the same so they are not interchangeable. You may be able to cobble something together to make them work but they are not bolt-in compatible. I think also the front one has an extra port for the pass-through to the rear.
Hi, to set the height sensors is there a dimension from wheel centre or the ground up to the wheel arch, or something along those lines? Or do you simply set the arms level with the car on level ground? Many thanks
Factory setting on the rear is to set the bolt on the bottom of the arm to the middle of the slot on the suspension arm. On the front, the factory setting is roughly 92mm of exposed skinny shaft between the locking nuts on the arms.
Wow thanks! I'm guessing you are a master-tech at Lexus?
@@3452dtn haha no, just spend way too much time tweaking my own car, and I write everything down before I change things!
@@LS430VIP Well thanks so much for your help. Lovely to chat to a fellow geek!
Hi Peter! Is there a way to air air to the system with a dead vehicle? The engine is blown and I need to get the front up to get it on my lift. Can you jump the relay to get the pump going? This is a 96 LS400 with only front bags. I'm having a time finding information.
No you cannot just jump the relay as the solenoids would be closed so there would be nowhere for the air to go I'm afraid. You would need to hotwire the solenoid live too, not sure where it is on a LS400, but on a 430 you would need to remove front bumper and hotwire the solenoid and compressor. It would be easier to just jack up the front of the car and put a small block of wood between the upper control arm and strut top to space it out temporarily while you move it on to the lift
@@LS430VIP Awesome!! Thanks for the feedback!! I was actually thinking it wouldn't work listening to the whole video of how the system work.
@@LS430VIP , I ended up splicing into the air line adding a schrader valve to air the suspension up. I had to splice into each side to blow up the bags independently. I spliced in just past the air line leading into each bag. It didn't take very long at all.
@LS430 VIP did you delete your air suspension? If yes, what conversion kit did you use?
Not yet, but I am planning to replace it with aftermarket air suspension. There are many air and spring options on the market, check with your local suspension suppliers
@@LS430VIP thanks
Hey bro i have toyota crown majesta 2006 the icon show in dashboard show height high how can i fix it thanks for answer
Sorry, know a couple of people with Crowns but I'm not that familiar with the platform. If it thinks it's high when it's not, I'd start with the dashboard switch, then checking the sensors. You really need a copy of Techstream software, and set the software region to Japan for Crown.
@@LS430VIP thanks brother for answer its blinking in dashboard im gonna check it thanks
What if the car (air ride) is super bouncy in the ls430 ?
Most likely a loss of damping (shock absorber) on one or more of the shocks. Inspect for fluid leakage down the shock or at the top mount. You can also perform the usual bounce test on each corner of the car to check it settles back correctly and doesn't continue bouncing. Replace any failed shocks, they are not serviceable.
Thanks for your response... I will check that out. It seems odd that the shocks would go bad for only having 50,000 miles on the car... being these shocks cost around $2,500 per shock.
@@johnkanduit2144 True, although you have to remember that these cars are now 17-23 years old, and in that time parts will deteriorate. Rubber seals particularly will harden and become brittle with age, and that is somewhat unavoidable, even on a quality product.
Is there a way to isolate and test the compressor?
You should be able to hear (and feel with your hand) it running, when the car engine is running. But yeah if you are testing it on the bench, you should just be able to give +/- power to the large wire connectors to turn on. Looking at the wiring diagram for a 430, the compressor has trigger + on light blue, and trigger - on brown. The manual states not to run the compressor in a bench test for more than 60 seconds, and to stop immediately if it doesn't run instantly. The compressor may also get hot while running. It'll be high amperage so use a car battery, not a bench power supply.
@@LS430VIP Thank you. Just got my car back from a local tech and I mistakenly had him check the rear suspension. Dry rot of the “boot” was found. Issue now is compressor doesn’t turn on at all. Never had that problem before.
@@medicalnegligence I'd check the compressor fuse (marked air sus in one of the cabin footwells), and also the air suspension compressor relay and other fuse which are in the fuse box under the hood/bonnet. If all that looks good I'd be sending the car back to be made right.
Woah car
Much car
So the air suspension is not as awful as some suggest
It's not bad at all, just 20 years old. Added to that, not many people understand air suspension compared to springs, so there's a "fear of the unknown" element to it too. Hopefully this video demystifies it for people.
THANK YOU, YOUR INFORMATION IS INVALUABLE AND I APPRECIATE YOU. 🫖
Hello brother I have a Lexus LS400 1995 and it has a problem with this system please talk to me to describe the problem to you