Jøtul 602 Classic, Restore and Assembly
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- The worlds most sold stove in this type of box stove. Came on marked about 1935 and are still made. Now with secondary burn patent and glass door. Same size and outlook...with the ribs on the sides and the lion relief made by artist Ørnulf Bast. Old and classic ! This movie shows you about all you need to know about this stove....The classic one.
You're the only person I've seen do it right so far. There's a million "restoration" videos of these stoves, and I can't find another one who actually takes the stove completely apart, and reseals the joints with furnace sealer. Everyone else just rubs a wire brush on it, then paints it, and calls it "restored." Well done.
Hey ! Thank you. Need to be putt in parts and reseal. If not...it is no sale object you v can call renovated. I do sell stoves in Sweden... Norwegian ones. Burning hot marked ha ha...but need to be done properly yes...if i claim it is renovated. I also sell stoves that is not renovated...just shined up ! :-) There is a difference ...and seems most people here agree on that. Ok
Great work. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share your knowledge with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Thx ! 🙂
Thank you for the help.
Thank you , this is just what I needed as I have bought an old 602N and need to restore it.
Welcome ! :-)
Thank you for this video. It helped me a lot.
I am restoring a Jotul 118 classic
Merry Christmas from the Netherlands
Thx ! :-) Merry Christmas ! :-)
Can you leave the top loose with only tounge and groove gasket for sealing so you can remove the top for easy and quick cleaning out,and wire brushing down.
It is not ment be like that. Will not be approved. Bad idea ! :-)
Thanks, realized my jøtul is missing a inner plate and the fire goes straight up the chimney..
No wonder it takes so long to be warm...
Can the glass doors off a newer model fit
Yes...but often some adjustments is needed to be done. If it is real old model...with no heat glassfiber rope on the door...and only metal to metal...a new glass door will not fit I guess. You need to know...and test...because those doors are expensive.
I have the same stove.And yes, she's a classic. 👍
thank you i could not figure out how the plates went back in
I am giving my good ol´ 602N same sort of love at the moment. Got more edges to the surfaces than yours, one for metal fittings and one for ... 6mm/1/4 " glassfiber/glue wick, I think. Those original screws I broke to dismantle the stove seemed in my eyes to be of iron. I see you put in regular steel or is it stainless ones ? How does the thermal expansion difference story go to that in relation to cast iron parts, do you know ?
I have the same classic model in green. Do you have that back plate available? I have a cracked back that I’d like to replace. Do you sell parts?
Hey ! Those back plates with no crack, is always a sortage. I might have, but is for stoves not yet refurbished. I guess you are over the sea...Atlantern, and extremely high postal costs. You can dobbel plate you back plate and use cement and screws...We call it " lasking " It is a legal or valid repair...but you will always know there is a crack there...but most people should not be irritated over that matter...i will suggest. You can later cover it with 2,5 cm fire stone so you make sure it is totally protected...but than again need 2,5 cm shorter loggs...when do fire. Also bore a hole about two mm at the end of the crack...to stop it to grow. The real problem is if beautiful dekorated sides...f.ecs. get a crack... That is annoying and irritating ...even if not a total perfectionist with idea buggs in brain and loose night sleep ha ha ha. Have a nice day ! :-)
My screws inside stove came loose a bit. Is it a good idea to tighten them every now and then? Or do I have to take it apart and reseal it?
Thanks in advance.
Hey I am not expert on that...and have never heard anyone say that is necessery. But if they loose...you might just need to thighten them slightly and leav it with that if stove does not leak smoke... I would say. They never tightened too much...Do not tighten too much ! 🙂
@@motordiverse1276 There was never any smoke, but sometimes you could see fire at the junction of the back and left side... That's why I thought something was wrong. I tightened the screws, I guess I didn't overdo it 🙂 I'll loosen them a little, just in case.
@@onside_pith5 Hey ! You can jam up or squeeze in som stove cement from inside in the joints to seal it...without takeing the stove apart. It should last some time and than you do it again after 5-10 years ... No beg deal. Just a suggestion...but you need to do something if you se open spaces. Should not have that.
@@motordiverse1276 I thought about it, but I thought it would have no effect. Now I will definitely do it.
Thank you very much!
Do you need to put Fire brick on the bottom of stove ? Thank you
No...but it is recommended that you use stove sand. They know...in a store special for stoves. Stove sand....not random sand. Recommended only...but if you leave 3-4 cm ashes...in the bottom...it do same job...when gotten more stabilized and compact.
Great job.
Please help out, I’m trying to restore one as well.
What type of stove cement did you use,
Does the water promote rust?
Do you paint the stove with high heat spray
Thanks in advance
Hey ! This cast iron stves...rust immidiatly if contact with water. But it is easy to brush them and or polish them after with stove polish. On this stove i use heat paint...and not polish. I use products from www.biltema.se
www.biltema.se/bygg/kemikalier/tatningsmedel/brandmassa-2000023767
I guess there is allot of brands of stove cement and polish and heat resistant paint...arround in the world. I am in Norway and Sweden...and also some products get sourced out and new comming in...as the polish i used to use...now is faced out and no longer is to buy...but a new linoil based one is replacing it. I guess also the cement now looks different...compared to the ones i bought six months ago. I use Biltema mostly...because good prices and good quality...combines it to a perfect choise for me he he ! :-)
I have this same stove. Three of the legs are wobbly but I can’t budge the flat head screws. I’ve used penetrating oil over night and still can’t move them. Any tips?
He he kick them with a hammer before trying to unscrew or tightening them. Remember this screws is easy to drill out or cut with a grinder or a dremmel and replace them with new M6 screw...as last solution. No big deal...so no worry. Ok The cast iron is soft to bore in or easy to repair the screwings...but be carful with the stove of cast iron...as it is a little fragile if you loose them on cement floore or kick them hard with sledge hammer...if you understand my point. Soft to drill in but fragile at the same time.
@@motordiverse1276 thank you. I’ll give the kick a try today!
@@jackachapman Another subject is...how and why they constructed the leg mounting as they did. I do not know exactly...but it is very common that legs are a little viggely or loos. When stove standing still on a place...you could choose to ignore that and should not add or take away anything...when conserning use of the stove. It is common on several types stove and leg mounting...type with one screw. I guess it hat something to do with heat extracting and retracting and may be difference in steel cast iron and the screws. Some times i have to bore out old screws as they brake or cannot start to be unscrewed or unmovable. But not difficult with drill and tools to make new screw windings. Exuse my english.
@@motordiverse1276 well two I was able to tighten well but two broke. Can you please tell me what size metal drill bit I should use. Also what size thread tap and screw?
@@jackachapman M6. ! Thread...nut sure what you mean...but remember it is soft to drill in...and screw in. I think there is a rougher thread 3/4 ? and a finer one...more common i Europa ? I not so scooled in english and in thread matter...but I use 08.08 quality steel screews or old one reuse...and both the rougher thread and the more smaller thread... works fine...even in hole not worked out with the thread maker. The thread maker i use i guess is the smaller thread and the diameter is what they name M6. So...maybe 5,5 mm drilll would be good and than thread with too...M6 and than use M6 screw . Originally...as you can see on the screws...it is used the more rough threads...i guess the more common american threads...and name is 4/4 or something. I might wright wrong here...but i know how i do it...but do not know for sure the names on thread size and stuff so much. And not sure if we mean the same when talking threads. My english you know. Maybe you understand what i wright he he...but others read it too so...i need to specify that this is just advices and not necessary the all correct answer.
What product did you use for the sealant?
Unfortunatly it has been fased out now. It was from swedish Biltema. Good price and very good or nice results...antrasit black. I have several tube ...as i secured myself from diferent Biltema stores....when i knew they going to stop production. They now have got a new pasta...but i never tried it. There is several types on the marked and some is from very old recipt and some brage all natural. Not sure if they found there was something dangerouse in the pasta they stopped/ faced out.
Ohh sorry...you mean the cement ? It is stove cement from www.biltema.se. Ordinary stove cement in tube...for tube pistol.