Personally i like electric gauges better, those mechanical gauges for one the oil pressure line gets old and brittle and when they blow its usually in car and you have a pressured line shooting oil all over your interior. NHRA doesn't allow them unless you have braided steel lines instead of plastic.
Ok guys, run the -3 stainless steel braided lines with AN fittings on each end. This will eliminate the possibility of leaks or a cracked/broken oil pressure line. 👍 Merry Christmas! 🎁🎄
I love the idea of the mechanical, I'm just worried about that input lag. If your oil pressure does plummet, you wont know for a few seconds. Which could be enough to cost you
The two at once is not a good comparison but I will say that the mechanical is better every time for there is nothing to fail in the mechanical one. But I think the one is robbing the other one as I found out was the case in the other one. Thanks again and have a great day today
I daily a 1994 Mustang Cobra and I drive all over the hottest parts of the country.I run EVERYTHING with Mechanical gauges.I run a 3 row Aluminum Rad,Oil Cooler with a finned Morosso 7quart pan..I run a T56 MAGNUM 6 Speed which makes 4.10s no problem plus it allows for 30plus mpg..Anyway I run just over 475HP & 490FT LBS TRQ..I ONLY trust my Mechanical gauges which consist of Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp,Fuel Pressure,Water Temp,AF along with Fuel.I do run a full AIM dash cluster but I only because I KNOW I CAN TRUST MY ANALOGS!!!! Keep it real man!!! 👍
A nearly 10% variance is big, but not alarming. A good big [4"] gauge would be nice to reach for to find out where the error is. I have a sneaking suspicion the sending unit is off - as long as error is known and linear, you just need to mark your gauge to note the correction.
I am running almost the same set-up, a stock 390 AMC with a mechanical Autometer oil pressure and I am getting the same results. I believe it was always better to run a mechanical gauge instead of an electrical for critical readings ie:oil pressure or trans. temperature. Some gauges are just inaccurate...you get what you pay for. Example... my (Summit) fuel gauge (mechanical) read 12 lbs. when in fact the true reading was 6 lbs. It was a little unnerving .!
Electric is good... but you have to come back with a nechanical every couple years and check for calibration drift as components age. Your basic bourdon tube [mechanical] is brilliant except if overpressured/off scale - then its trash: they never come back to being trustworthy. That's where electrical has it beat. When I run a mechanical gauge, I pick a range that lands [normal pressure] operation in roughly the middle third of scale - I want to avoid anything that would live in top or bottom 20% of range.
Why did you use gauges with different sweeps. Mechanical was 270 and the electric was looking like only 90. Didn't seem like an accurate setup to me. Did like the fast spool up of the electric over the mechanical. Biggest thing I don't like about the mechanical is the tubing required. Never use the plastic/nylon and the copper will work harden over time. Steel is ok if supported.
electric gauges are less accurate than mechanical because with elec you have 2 variances the gauge and the sending unit with mech. you just have the gauge variance also use a quality gauge autometer , stewart warner and never use that plastic oil line . use copper tubing and i slide a vacuum line over it before installation
do you have the oil line mod added under the intake in the lifter valley ... to the back left to feed more oil flow to the rear bearings ? i think Roger Penske Trans AM team came up with that :)
I'm into the mechanical gauges myself. I have a question. I'm told the mechanical oil pressure gauge and the mechanical fuel pressure gauge both made by autometer are the exact same gauge only difference is the faceplate. If this is the case why would you not run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside the cab of your truck obviously being Diesel and not gasoline. Can you explain to me the difference between the two gauges fuel pressure gauge and oil pressure gauge
Safety is why you never do that. You can run a mechanical fuel pressure guage but you have to use an inline isolator before the firewall. You can't have any fuel going into the cabin. No one will pass that in any kind of vehicle inspection. With modern components anymore, its just easier to run an electric guage set up where you only have to deal with a couple wires in the cab and to the pressure transducer. For some reason no one cares if you have an oil leak in the car. Just fuel.
Personally i like electric gauges better, those mechanical gauges for one the oil pressure line gets old and brittle and when they blow its usually in car and you have a pressured line shooting oil all over your interior. NHRA doesn't allow them unless you have braided steel lines instead of plastic.
Bleed the air out of the line to eliminate the delay
How do you do that?
@@mbz4652 crack the fitting at the gauge till oil comes out and tighten it. Probably don't want to do that in your interior though
Never had a mechanical oil pressure gauge take that long.
its cuz they used a drill ! also probably has never been used yet.
Ok guys, run the -3 stainless steel braided lines with AN fittings on each end. This will eliminate the possibility of leaks or a cracked/broken oil pressure line. 👍
Merry Christmas! 🎁🎄
I love the idea of the mechanical, I'm just worried about that input lag. If your oil pressure does plummet, you wont know for a few seconds. Which could be enough to cost you
Great vid, clear and to the point. Thanks
The two at once is not a good comparison but I will say that the mechanical is better every time for there is nothing to fail in the mechanical one. But I think the one is robbing the other one as I found out was the case in the other one. Thanks again and have a great day today
I daily a 1994 Mustang Cobra and I drive all over the hottest parts of the country.I run EVERYTHING with Mechanical gauges.I run a 3 row Aluminum Rad,Oil Cooler with a finned Morosso 7quart pan..I run a T56 MAGNUM 6 Speed which makes 4.10s no problem plus it allows for 30plus mpg..Anyway I run just over 475HP & 490FT LBS TRQ..I ONLY trust my Mechanical gauges which consist of Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp,Fuel Pressure,Water Temp,AF along with Fuel.I do run a full AIM dash cluster but I only because I KNOW I CAN TRUST MY ANALOGS!!!! Keep it real man!!! 👍
A nearly 10% variance is big, but not alarming. A good big [4"] gauge would be nice to reach for to find out where the error is. I have a sneaking suspicion the sending unit is off - as long as error is known and linear, you just need to mark your gauge to note the correction.
LOL....
Im all about Mechanical Gauges..ANALOG FOR LIFE!!!
Is there copper tubing that could be used instead of the flimsy plastic line? I've had my leg covered in oil once because of the crappy plastic tube
I thought they came with the copper line, or maybe it's an extra you can purchase. But I have seen the copper wire in an autometer box
Yes they sell copper tubes and they are better to use than the plastic
Autometer sell braided line for the oil pressure gauges so you don't have any leeks ect
Which one is more accurate?
Has no one noticed they are actually the same pressures? Think about it and do the math peeps.
terry thompson, yes i also noticed they are the same pressure
I am running almost the same set-up, a stock 390 AMC with a mechanical Autometer oil pressure and I am getting the same results. I believe it was always better to run a mechanical gauge instead of an electrical for critical readings ie:oil pressure or trans. temperature. Some gauges are just inaccurate...you get what you pay for. Example... my (Summit) fuel gauge (mechanical) read 12 lbs. when in fact the true reading was 6 lbs. It was a little unnerving .!
390 amc amx?
Electric is good... but you have to come back with a nechanical every couple years and check for calibration drift as components age. Your basic bourdon tube [mechanical] is brilliant except if overpressured/off scale - then its trash: they never come back to being trustworthy. That's where electrical has it beat. When I run a mechanical gauge, I pick a range that lands [normal pressure] operation in roughly the middle third of scale - I want to avoid anything that would live in top or bottom 20% of range.
@@kaleb1669
68, 69 and 70
That`s good presser for AMC oil pump :)
Why did you use gauges with different sweeps. Mechanical was 270 and the electric was looking like only 90. Didn't seem like an accurate setup to me. Did like the fast spool up of the electric over the mechanical. Biggest thing I don't like about the mechanical is the tubing required. Never use the plastic/nylon and the copper will work harden over time. Steel is ok if supported.
On my DSM the oil pressure sensor is at the oil pump so I see the pressure on DSMlink and its pretty accurate..m
electric gauges are less accurate than mechanical because with elec you have 2 variances the gauge and the sending unit with mech. you just have the gauge variance also use a quality gauge autometer , stewart warner and never use that plastic oil line . use copper tubing and i slide a vacuum line over it before installation
do you have the oil line mod added under the intake in the lifter valley ... to the back left to feed more oil flow to the rear bearings ? i think Roger Penske Trans AM team came up with that :)
It's in there
I'm into the mechanical gauges myself. I have a question. I'm told the mechanical oil pressure gauge and the mechanical fuel pressure gauge both made by autometer are the exact same gauge only difference is the faceplate. If this is the case why would you not run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside the cab of your truck obviously being Diesel and not gasoline. Can you explain to me the difference between the two gauges fuel pressure gauge and oil pressure gauge
Don't know, talking to Auto Meter is your best bet
Safety is why you never do that. You can run a mechanical fuel pressure guage but you have to use an inline isolator before the firewall. You can't have any fuel going into the cabin. No one will pass that in any kind of vehicle inspection. With modern components anymore, its just easier to run an electric guage set up where you only have to deal with a couple wires in the cab and to the pressure transducer. For some reason no one cares if you have an oil leak in the car. Just fuel.
Your fly is down
Hey Gus your barn door is open>
Maybe you should check the supply voltage, they must be design to run at 13.8v and you are probably at 12.6 now?
Worth checking
I was having the same thought.
My plastic tube broke off 300km frm home never again