@@stevenrhyne1 they are bxbuilt led projectors w/turbine shrouds that I retrofited into the OEM headlights myself. I think Timmy has a video with a new company you can get projectors from as bxbuilt is out of business now.
I am about to undergo this same project. OEM is $1000 from dealership (with warranty) and Autozone wants $300 after core trade. Is this amazon bought booster still doing well 3 months later??
Thank you for being articulate, detailed, and great with the video! Taking pictures of everything before the installation process sure helped me out! I knew exactly where the spring attached way up under the dash after it came out of its mount! I created my gasket from the wet strength paper from a Celsius drink box. Kudos to you! You made a difficult process easy for this backyard mechanic! Following you for life.....
Great video. I definitely recommend a vacuum bleeder too that helps night and day with brake pedal feel especially with the tundra front caliper upgrade.
@MarkamisPrime does it work better than gravity bleeding? I've deleted the abs, replaced literally everything except the hard lines, pedal, and booster and my pedal only works at the bottom of its travel and does nothing until halfway down. I'm about to swap in a booster next. Idk what else to do.
Also if anybody runs into this! There's a little plastic piece that pushes on the brake light switch, mine broke and I couldn't find a new replacement! I came up with something that will go in the hole easy and stay in place. It's a plastic push pin like you would use on the door to hold the panel on. I have an assortment kit, and had one that just had a plastic flat tip. I pushed it right through the hole with the flat tip where the switch pin is. It's a perfect substitute and now I have brakes lights that work properly again!
Great video as always guys! Your content never disappoints. I have a 01’ currently dealing with an annoying noise and a considerable leak coming out of my master cylinder. Do you have any video related to that issue? Would you recommend that I replace it or it’s worth fixing? Also I’ve been looking around and looks like they don’t make the OEM anymore, could you share with me some safe place to buy a used/reconditioned one?
We've never tried to rebuild a master cylinder so we couldn't advice you on that. We don't have any videos on replacing a master cylinder on a 3rd Gen 4runner. We know of a guy in Washington state that parts out 4runners. You can contact him on Facebook and see if he has one he can sell you. facebook.com/josh.young.3950
I have a 01 Tacoma and watched this hoping it was similar, but this master cylinder doesn't have a shaft on it that inserts into the booster like the Tacoma's does. That shaft makes it nearly impossible to take the booster off without taking the master cylinder completely off and need to do a bench bleed/system bleed after. There's a video showing it can be done on the Tacoma without taking the MC off but you have to put a hell of a lot of stress on those skinny fluid lines. Fun, fun, fun.
....great DIY video Sean....I have two 3rd gen 4Runners (year 2000) and I plan to keep them forever....I'm sure this video will come in handy in the near future....I'm curious, do you think removing he driver seat would give you more room to work under the dash?.....tell Tim hello, and keep the videos coming!.. 🙂
Also, it wasn't on my vehicle but on other vehicles. I'd run across where the aftermarket booster was bad so make sure before you take everything apart! Start your vehicle and pull the hose off. Attach it to the new one off to the side and make sure that it holds vacuum! Just an FYI to save you some trouble! I did it only for a second, so I didn't think any harm came to the unit by not having it fully installed.
Last year when I got my 1998 4runner literally the day I got my brand new tires and wheels on my brake booster started to fail lol. I hadn't started doing my own work on my truck yet so I had a shop that my family is friends with install my brake booster. It's an aftermarket one. Has been great so far almost coming up on a year with it no issues. Maybe aftermarket brake boosters aren't so bad. Just don't get the crappiest one I guess haha.
@@TimmyTheToolman very true. There’s definitely is a fair share of discontinued parts from Toyota and you have to find a different source. Thankfully there’s plenty!
Great video - I was hoping I wouldn't have to disconnect the hard brake lines from the master cylinder as the FSM suggests. I almost always replace with Toyota parts, but the cheapest I could find was $800, which is robbery - thanks for the suggested replacement. Is there a link to see Chris' build? He has some interesting transfer case levers...
You haven’t seen anything yet! We should do a walk around video on his rig.. but as of now, we have not done a complete rig walk around. We will work on that ASAP as his rig is pretty completed at this point. - Sean
I have this issue on my 99... I was a bit surprised by the link shown to an aftermarket part. Any feedback on how its treated Chris and his rig? OEM is brutally expensive!
Hey Tim I'm the guy that sent you the whiskey I wonder if anybody makes a rebuild kit for those because I believe you can take them apart they're getting harder to find and they're just way too expensive I bought a knockoff from Amazon and so far it's holding up another great video appreciate it man
I've never heard of a rebuild kit for them, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. I've never searched for one. By the way, the whiskey was good. Thanks!
@KetoCaveMan I plan on visiting Jordan this year and the plan is to drive up into Raleigh, NC and have the party at TEQ Customs. There's a good group of Toyota enthusiasts there.
That's a good question. I can't say for sure, but I don't think that gasket has any sealing quality to it. I think it's just meant to keep water or other debris from sneaking in. I've never heard of a vacuum leak from that connection.
Another great video 🏆🏆 I will never understand why Toyota went so willy nilly with master/booster designs - the T100 is similar weight with the same drivetrain AND built during the same time, but has 4 bolts instead of two. Tundras and Sequoias are larger, also built during the same period, but have smaller bore sizes (and I think the Tundra has a different stroke than the Sequoia?). I think Tacomas had a different stroke length than 4Runners too? Just all over the place, and it definitely wasn't cheaper for them to do it that way either
My 2000 is have random moments of the brake becoming super stiff and a loss of brake power, and then it goes right back to normal. Is this because of a bad brake booster or is it losing vacuum
It could be a vacuum issue. Check to make sure the hose is intact. If it is, then check the integrity of the brake booster check valve. It that checks out, you need to replace the brake booster. The check valve is easy to check, you should be able to suck air in through the nipple but not be able to blow are through.
I went with an aftermarket Amazon booster for mine when the oem one went out last week and it feels a lot harder and maybe ever less braking power. Did I buy a dud or is it kind of breaking in? I know all the vacuum line are good cause I took a photo.
I'm really feeling the love from your comment. Just know that Sean and I are a team. When you criticize one of us, you're criticizing both of us. He has my back and I have his. This is a video I did on the same subject matter replacing a brake booster on my buddy Aaron's FZJ80 Land Cruiser. The video is 38 minutes long. ruclips.net/video/KqugF6hLAMY/видео.htmlsi=mwle5xO78QDILhgy I know, it's twice the length of the video Sean made with Chris, but maybe if you have the patience to watch it, you'll learn something because the videos aren't identical and different information is shared. Just know that for every comment like yours slamming us for the length of our videos, there's tons of people who applaud us for the detail we provide. They could care less how long it is. The video length is dictated by the subject matter. Our videos are as long as they need to be in order to instruct people in a way that leaves Nobody lost, not even the absolute beginner who has never turned a wrench. - Tim
@@TimmyTheToolman It was an honest observation which was borne out by your reply. I have no need to learn how to replace a booster on a vehicle I don't own. Sic mods!
@maralynthomson4375 Well, your first comment was an exaggeration. I showed you a video I did on the same subject matter that was 38 minutes long, not 90 minutes long. It's clear your "Observation" was intended to be a slight towards me. You also purposely referred to me as Timmy Tool, not Timmy the Toolman. So, you're calling me a Tool, which is an insult. So Maralyn, or whoever you are, don't try to say your comment was just an honest observation. I know very clearly the purpose of your first comment. We don't tolerate disrespectful comments on our channel. We have the ability to hide people's comments. Your next disrespectful comment will be your last. I'llI leave you with this. You could have simply congratulated Sean on a job well done and left any reference to me out of it. Because you felt the need to disrespect me, your comment lost any good intention you had. If you can't understand what I just said, well, I hope one day you finally get how you were very wrong in your approach to respectful conversation. If you think anyone would respond positively to a comment like yours, I highly suggest you taking a class on communication skills.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much! got a 4runner this year and needs to be worked on to get it up to date. your videos and information has helped me believe that this thing can be restored!
Also for bleeding I bought one of those Amazon air hose kits to suck the fluid through my issues with the anti-lock brake housing I just still feel like I don't have a nice high pedal like I should I've adjusted everything the brakes in the rear I just don't feel like it gives me that high pedal I'm almost considering removing the anti-lock brake housing and putting in a proportioning valve
To push air out of the anti lock brake module, I've heard of guys driving on a gravel road or trail and locking up the brakes over and over again to get the ABS module to fire a bunch of times. Usually air does not get trapped in the module unless you let a lot of brake fluid drain out. Do you have an 01 or 02 model with the fancy brake booster?
@@TimmyTheToolman no sir. It's a 99 with a spaceship on top! 🤪🤣 I did have a friend bring over a modis and was able to activate it through the computer. Maybe you can provide a pin out on the module for that procedure!
🤘 awesome video. You guys should consider filming a video where you do a t100 brake booster swap for the 3rd gen 4Runner. For people with the tundra brake swap, I heard this was a very nice supporting mod.
@@TimmyTheToolman Reporting back* I did the replacement and everything works fine but I’m hearing a slight “whistle” when depressing the brake pedal quickly. Anyone experience something similar? Otherwise great video! Helped me get the job done in an hour and 30 minutes :)
@@TimmyTheToolman I’m chalking it up as a slight defect on the 3rd party brake booster. Maybe it’ll go away in time but if not at least it doesn’t keep the brakes from working properly :)
I just had my suspension replaced with bilstein 5100s with new factory springs and no lift bc the rear of my runner was sagging. Also got a new tires. Sag was fixed but truck is now more loud in rear and bumpier. Would durabumps smooth the ride or do springs settle in?
It's hard for us to diagnose over the internet and issue after the suspension work was done. The bump stops are only there has limiters to hard compressions to keep the shocks from bottoming out. If you're getting noises from normal driving, I can't advise you other than make sure nothing is loose in the back end - shocks, sway bar, panhard bar, etc. By the way, you asked a suspension question for a video about replacing a brake booster.
You don’t really need to remove the charcoal canister I’ve done two of them and you can remove the booster and master cylinder without removing the charcoal canister. It just creates more work for yourself.
Sean mentions in the video you can most likely get the master cylinder out of the way and the brake booster out without removing the charcoal canister. But, because Chris had some accessory vent tubing and wiring going on in that area, they though best to remove the canister for more room to work and film. I believe the extra space gained makes removing the canister worth the work. Also, you have to remember we are filming and want to show our audience clearly what's going on. With less things in the way, it's easier for us to show people what fasteners they need to remove. - Timmy
There is the t100 upgrade. I have a bunch of forums on it but alot of dead ends...I can never figure out the final part #s needed sadly for this. But alot of people have talked about this upgrade
Are you sure the booster you pulled out was original? I thought OEM was Seiken and not Master Vac? Also I’ve been trying to track down the correct part number for the gasket that goes between the master cylinder and booster. I found 47275-52010 but none of the diagrams on the Toyota parts website have the exploded view for the booster and associated parts. The factory booster part number is 44610-3D700 and the part number for the Seiken is 650-71050 if people want to go that route. I just did mine but the Scarab fuse holder that bolts on top of the charcoal canister definitely complicated the removal!! Thanks again for making these great videos!
I can't remember who made it, but for what it's worth a few years back I do remember shopping for one on McGeorge and I think they wanted like $600 for it 🤯🤯
You are kind of forced to go OEM new or used with the 01-02’s. And new OEM is crazy expensive because the master cylinder on those years integrates into the traction system. - Sean
Yeah I ended up picking a used one, have no idea how to bleed the master cylinder but doing as much research as I can. Recommend any videos to watch on the 01-02 master cylinder install?
Straight boosted! The new booster is holding up well so far 🤘🏼. Made a huge difference in the hard brake/quick acceleration stumble I used to have.
Nice triple stick 👍👍
@@Patrick.Weightmanthank you 😁
Just came across this video after looking at the retro headlights. Not a brake booster comment but what are the specs on those headlights?
@@stevenrhyne1 they are bxbuilt led projectors w/turbine shrouds that I retrofited into the OEM headlights myself. I think Timmy has a video with a new company you can get projectors from as bxbuilt is out of business now.
I am about to undergo this same project. OEM is $1000 from dealership (with warranty) and Autozone wants $300 after core trade. Is this amazon bought booster still doing well 3 months later??
Thank you for being articulate, detailed, and great with the video! Taking pictures of everything before the installation process sure helped me out! I knew exactly where the spring attached way up under the dash after it came out of its mount! I created my gasket from the wet strength paper from a Celsius drink box. Kudos to you! You made a difficult process easy for this backyard mechanic! Following you for life.....
Hell yeah bro! Keep up the Sicmods!
- Sean
Good job Sean & Tim!This video will help a lot of people!
Glad you think so!
- Sean
Well this video is good timing. I think my booster just went out today, so I'll be replacing it soon. Appreciate the down to earth repair videos!
You're welcome. Good luck with the swap.
Great video. I definitely recommend a vacuum bleeder too that helps night and day with brake pedal feel especially with the tundra front caliper upgrade.
Vacuum bleeder?
@@KetoCaveMan yes a vacuum bleeder. Or pneumatic bleeder.
Where can I find info on this?
Info on a vacuum bleeder or on how to??
@MarkamisPrime does it work better than gravity bleeding? I've deleted the abs, replaced literally everything except the hard lines, pedal, and booster and my pedal only works at the bottom of its travel and does nothing until halfway down.
I'm about to swap in a booster next. Idk what else to do.
That is one sweet rig!!!!
You just made Chris smile.
Also if anybody runs into this! There's a little plastic piece that pushes on the brake light switch, mine broke and I couldn't find a new replacement! I came up with something that will go in the hole easy and stay in place. It's a plastic push pin like you would use on the door to hold the panel on. I have an assortment kit, and had one that just had a plastic flat tip. I pushed it right through the hole with the flat tip where the switch pin is. It's a perfect substitute and now I have brakes lights that work properly again!
Thanks for sharing this info.
Great video as always guys! Your content never disappoints. I have a 01’ currently dealing with an annoying noise and a considerable leak coming out of my master cylinder. Do you have any video related to that issue? Would you recommend that I replace it or it’s worth fixing? Also I’ve been looking around and looks like they don’t make the OEM anymore, could you share with me some safe place to buy a used/reconditioned one?
We've never tried to rebuild a master cylinder so we couldn't advice you on that. We don't have any videos on replacing a master cylinder on a 3rd Gen 4runner.
We know of a guy in Washington state that parts out 4runners. You can contact him on Facebook and see if he has one he can sell you. facebook.com/josh.young.3950
I have a 01 Tacoma and watched this hoping it was similar, but this master cylinder doesn't have a shaft on it that inserts into the booster like the Tacoma's does. That shaft makes it nearly impossible to take the booster off without taking the master cylinder completely off and need to do a bench bleed/system bleed after.
There's a video showing it can be done on the Tacoma without taking the MC off but you have to put a hell of a lot of stress on those skinny fluid lines. Fun, fun, fun.
....great DIY video Sean....I have two 3rd gen 4Runners (year 2000) and I plan to keep them forever....I'm sure this video
will come in handy in the near future....I'm curious, do you think removing he driver seat would give you more room
to work under the dash?.....tell Tim hello, and keep the videos coming!.. 🙂
Yes, removing the drivers seat would definitely make it more comfortable. Tim and I say hi back 👋🏼 💪🏼
- Sean
Also, it wasn't on my vehicle but on other vehicles. I'd run across where the aftermarket booster was bad so make sure before you take everything apart! Start your vehicle and pull the hose off. Attach it to the new one off to the side and make sure that it holds vacuum! Just an FYI to save you some trouble! I did it only for a second, so I didn't think any harm came to the unit by not having it fully installed.
Last year when I got my 1998 4runner literally the day I got my brand new tires and wheels on my brake booster started to fail lol. I hadn't started doing my own work on my truck yet so I had a shop that my family is friends with install my brake booster. It's an aftermarket one. Has been great so far almost coming up on a year with it no issues. Maybe aftermarket brake boosters aren't so bad. Just don't get the crappiest one I guess haha.
Aftermarket can be pretty good and sometimes it can be your only option when Toyota discontinues parts.
@@TimmyTheToolman very true. There’s definitely is a fair share of discontinued parts from Toyota and you have to find a different source. Thankfully there’s plenty!
Great video - I was hoping I wouldn't have to disconnect the hard brake lines from the master cylinder as the FSM suggests. I almost always replace with Toyota parts, but the cheapest I could find was $800, which is robbery - thanks for the suggested replacement. Is there a link to see Chris' build? He has some interesting transfer case levers...
You haven’t seen anything yet! We should do a walk around video on his rig.. but as of now, we have not done a complete rig walk around. We will work on that ASAP as his rig is pretty completed at this point.
- Sean
I have this issue on my 99... I was a bit surprised by the link shown to an aftermarket part. Any feedback on how its treated Chris and his rig? OEM is brutally expensive!
His aftermarket booster is working fine.
Hey Tim I'm the guy that sent you the whiskey I wonder if anybody makes a rebuild kit for those because I believe you can take them apart they're getting harder to find and they're just way too expensive I bought a knockoff from Amazon and so far it's holding up another great video appreciate it man
I've never heard of a rebuild kit for them, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. I've never searched for one.
By the way, the whiskey was good. Thanks!
@@TimmyTheToolman you are so welcome! And thanks to Sean. Are you planning a Georgia trip this year?
Theres A guy that rebuilds these. Cant remember his name
@KetoCaveMan I plan on visiting Jordan this year and the plan is to drive up into Raleigh, NC and have the party at TEQ Customs. There's a good group of Toyota enthusiasts there.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok cool! Keep us posted sir! If possible, I'd like to be there! Cheers!
This video was so helpful! Thank you
You're welcome Terry.
Wow that shaft was looooooose, I'm thinking I should maybe give mine a peek sometime soon now
Well, if your braking is fine, I don't see any reason to do anything. Chris did this job because he was experiencing braking issues.
does the gasket between the master cylinder and brake booster seal vacuum? Or is it just to protect the dissimilar metals of the 2 mating surfaces
That's a good question. I can't say for sure, but I don't think that gasket has any sealing quality to it. I think it's just meant to keep water or other debris from sneaking in. I've never heard of a vacuum leak from that connection.
Another great video 🏆🏆
I will never understand why Toyota went so willy nilly with master/booster designs - the T100 is similar weight with the same drivetrain AND built during the same time, but has 4 bolts instead of two. Tundras and Sequoias are larger, also built during the same period, but have smaller bore sizes (and I think the Tundra has a different stroke than the Sequoia?). I think Tacomas had a different stroke length than 4Runners too? Just all over the place, and it definitely wasn't cheaper for them to do it that way either
Sometimes I wonder how they came up with the designs they engineer.
@@TimmyTheToolman but a great motor design! I got my 300000 mile sticker that now is proudly displayed! 😎👌
Excellent video it help me a lot thanks guys.
Thanks and you're welcome.
Great video!
Thanks Eliot!
My 2000 is have random moments of the brake becoming super stiff and a loss of brake power, and then it goes right back to normal. Is this because of a bad brake booster or is it losing vacuum
It could be a vacuum issue. Check to make sure the hose is intact. If it is, then check the integrity of the brake booster check valve. It that checks out, you need to replace the brake booster. The check valve is easy to check, you should be able to suck air in through the nipple but not be able to blow are through.
I went with an aftermarket Amazon booster for mine when the oem one went out last week and it feels a lot harder and maybe ever less braking power. Did I buy a dud or is it kind of breaking in? I know all the vacuum line are good cause I took a photo.
That doesn't sound right. I'd send it back.
How did you guys make the gasket for the master cylinder mating up too the brake booster?
Chris found some bulk gasket material and they simply traced and cut it out.
Great video could have used a tape measure to measure the pushrod?
Thanks. There's lots of different ways you can measure the length of the pushrod. Sean and Chris shared one way. A tape measure would work fine.
NIce! Do you think you can look into the new LBJ mod that came out? Might be a game changer
I hope you’re referring to the uni-ball LBJ..? We got that video right around the corner for ya!
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I am! Heck yeah, dude!
Thanks Sean. Sweet and concise. If Timmy Tool had done this video it would have been and 90mins long!
I'm really feeling the love from your comment. Just know that Sean and I are a team. When you criticize one of us, you're criticizing both of us. He has my back and I have his.
This is a video I did on the same subject matter replacing a brake booster on my buddy Aaron's FZJ80 Land Cruiser. The video is 38 minutes long. ruclips.net/video/KqugF6hLAMY/видео.htmlsi=mwle5xO78QDILhgy I know, it's twice the length of the video Sean made with Chris, but maybe if you have the patience to watch it, you'll learn something because the videos aren't identical and different information is shared.
Just know that for every comment like yours slamming us for the length of our videos, there's tons of people who applaud us for the detail we provide. They could care less how long it is. The video length is dictated by the subject matter. Our videos are as long as they need to be in order to instruct people in a way that leaves Nobody lost, not even the absolute beginner who has never turned a wrench. - Tim
@@TimmyTheToolman It was an honest observation which was borne out by your reply. I have no need to learn how to replace a booster on a vehicle I don't own. Sic mods!
@maralynthomson4375 Well, your first comment was an exaggeration. I showed you a video I did on the same subject matter that was 38 minutes long, not 90 minutes long. It's clear your "Observation" was intended to be a slight towards me. You also purposely referred to me as Timmy Tool, not Timmy the Toolman. So, you're calling me a Tool, which is an insult. So Maralyn, or whoever you are, don't try to say your comment was just an honest observation. I know very clearly the purpose of your first comment. We don't tolerate disrespectful comments on our channel. We have the ability to hide people's comments. Your next disrespectful comment will be your last.
I'llI leave you with this. You could have simply congratulated Sean on a job well done and left any reference to me out of it. Because you felt the need to disrespect me, your comment lost any good intention you had. If you can't understand what I just said, well, I hope one day you finally get how you were very wrong in your approach to respectful conversation. If you think anyone would respond positively to a comment like yours, I highly suggest you taking a class on communication skills.
How has it been holding up so far?
@isaacsumera3795 So far, so good. No issues.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much! got a 4runner this year and needs to be worked on to get it up to date. your videos and information has helped me believe that this thing can be restored!
@@isaacsumera3795 You're very welcome. Have fun with your rig.
Thank you for good video
Always welcome 🙏🏼
Also for bleeding I bought one of those Amazon air hose kits to suck the fluid through my issues with the anti-lock brake housing I just still feel like I don't have a nice high pedal like I should I've adjusted everything the brakes in the rear I just don't feel like it gives me that high pedal I'm almost considering removing the anti-lock brake housing and putting in a proportioning valve
To push air out of the anti lock brake module, I've heard of guys driving on a gravel road or trail and locking up the brakes over and over again to get the ABS module to fire a bunch of times.
Usually air does not get trapped in the module unless you let a lot of brake fluid drain out. Do you have an 01 or 02 model with the fancy brake booster?
@@TimmyTheToolman no sir. It's a 99 with a spaceship on top! 🤪🤣 I did have a friend bring over a modis and was able to activate it through the computer. Maybe you can provide a pin out on the module for that procedure!
🤘 awesome video. You guys should consider filming a video where you do a t100 brake booster swap for the 3rd gen 4Runner. For people with the tundra brake swap, I heard this was a very nice supporting mod.
@@YotaNation I've done the rotor swap! Didn't know there was a booster swap too! Following! Thanks
@@KetoCaveMan You can fire the ABS with the Tech Stream program as well.
Time for me to tackle this one, brake booster just took it’s last breath 2 weeks ago lol
Good luck with the job!
@@TimmyTheToolman Reporting back*
I did the replacement and everything works fine but I’m hearing a slight “whistle” when depressing the brake pedal quickly. Anyone experience something similar?
Otherwise great video! Helped me get the job done in an hour and 30 minutes :)
@Twenty.4.Frames Our buddy Chris didn't experience this. I'm not sure why it makes a whistling sound.
@@TimmyTheToolman I’m chalking it up as a slight defect on the 3rd party brake booster. Maybe it’ll go away in time but if not at least it doesn’t keep the brakes from working properly :)
My booster just went out how's this one holding up so far?
So far, so good.
Just got it done thanks for the video!!!
@@that4runnerguy364 You're welcome. Good job getting it done.
So you did not have to disconnect master cyl and lines?
No just hangs out of the way.
@@gncc600 Thks
What brand of break booster did you guys use?
We linked it in the video description, but I'll save you some time and share it with you here. amzn.to/3SnpyIS
You guys are awesome going to tackle the job with your help. Thank you
@@albertmartinez1900 You're welcome. Good luck with the swap.
I just had my suspension replaced with bilstein 5100s with new factory springs and no lift bc the rear of my runner was sagging. Also got a new tires. Sag was fixed but truck is now more loud in rear and bumpier. Would durabumps smooth the ride or do springs settle in?
It's hard for us to diagnose over the internet and issue after the suspension work was done. The bump stops are only there has limiters to hard compressions to keep the shocks from bottoming out. If you're getting noises from normal driving, I can't advise you other than make sure nothing is loose in the back end - shocks, sway bar, panhard bar, etc.
By the way, you asked a suspension question for a video about replacing a brake booster.
You don’t really need to remove the charcoal canister I’ve done two of them and you can remove the booster and master cylinder without removing the charcoal canister. It just creates more work for yourself.
Sean mentions in the video you can most likely get the master cylinder out of the way and the brake booster out without removing the charcoal canister. But, because Chris had some accessory vent tubing and wiring going on in that area, they though best to remove the canister for more room to work and film.
I believe the extra space gained makes removing the canister worth the work. Also, you have to remember we are filming and want to show our audience clearly what's going on. With less things in the way, it's easier for us to show people what fasteners they need to remove. - Timmy
Anyone know if you can fit a larger booster, master cylinder to compliment the tundra brake upgrade?
There is the t100 upgrade. I have a bunch of forums on it but alot of dead ends...I can never figure out the final part #s needed sadly for this. But alot of people have talked about this upgrade
You don't have to bleed the brakes?
The lines were never disconnected so the system was never opened.
@@gncc600 correct but this makes it exciting to know.
Yep, there's no need to bleed the brakes because no brake lines were disconnected.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thanks!
Are you sure the booster you pulled out was original? I thought OEM was Seiken and not Master Vac? Also I’ve been trying to track down the correct part number for the gasket that goes between the master cylinder and booster. I found 47275-52010 but none of the diagrams on the Toyota parts website have the exploded view for the booster and associated parts.
The factory booster part number is 44610-3D700 and the part number for the Seiken is 650-71050 if people want to go that route. I just did mine but the Scarab fuse holder that bolts on top of the charcoal canister definitely complicated the removal!! Thanks again for making these great videos!
I can't remember who made it, but for what it's worth a few years back I do remember shopping for one on McGeorge and I think they wanted like $600 for it 🤯🤯
Oh the cheapest I found for Toyota was over $900 shipped!!! The Seiken was less than $700 and I thought I was getting a deal 😞
@@Deoxyryboncleic Yeah that sounds about right, it's been a couple years and McGeorge was famously cheaper than everyone else
@@Patrick.Weightman It's now $1200, with a discount on the site $800 💀
I replaced mine and now my break pedal goes to the floor 😔 what could it be ?
Did you do the job like we showed without disconnecting brake lines, or did you disconnect brake lines to get the master cylinder out of the way?
You cant beat Toyota reliability.
We agree with this statement.
Is there a video for the 2001-2002 master cylinder replacement anyone likes? Can’t find one for these years
You are kind of forced to go OEM new or used with the 01-02’s. And new OEM is crazy expensive because the master cylinder on those years integrates into the traction system.
- Sean
Yeah I ended up picking a used one, have no idea how to bleed the master cylinder but doing as much research as I can. Recommend any videos to watch on the 01-02 master cylinder install?
Why you replaced booster
Chris explained the symptoms he was experiencing to make him want to replace the brake booster. I suggest you watch the video.
My brake booster is completely out 😂
I reckon it's time to replace it then. You found the right channel to help you with the swap. Good luck!
Your old booster is not oem. Somebody replaced it at an earlier time.