This is the 5th tile project we've done where we've removed the old tile before installing new tile, and the first one with this tool ruclips.net/user/postUgkxqqoaX03nrziKwF7Bjjcc71YzLEleMvOS . I want to cry for all the unnecessary work we've done in the past. With this tool, we removed tile surrounding a fireplace, as well as the hearth tile, set in loads of cement, in less than an hour. I highly recommend this tool. It was easy to use, and very satisfying watching the tile literally fall off the wall.
*Works as described , **MyBest.Tools** breaking out rock in my yard to install post for mailbox , fencing and trenches . We built the house on a high point that is mostly rock and this is a tool that helps for installing anything in this ground.*
I bought one of these drills based on Alan's review and for the first few uses it worked very well. Until it developed a fault where it would only work in chisel mode if at all. I've used Makita tools for 15 years and never had a problem. I've returned the drill and Makita are in the process of dealing with it. So I shall have to see how well the warranty process works. My only criticism so far is that even if you have the original receipt they won't honour the three year warranty which is widely advertised if it has not been registered within 30 days. I can see no reason why this should be the case as they could send the certificate with the product at the time of purchase. It does make me suspect that the only reason they would use the 30 day registration process is so they have a means of not covering the tool for the three year period should someone not know about the registration process, forget or not bother believing that a genuine warranty would cover them automatically from the point of purchase.
Yes giving themselves a loophole so they can't take the blame for not honouring the warranty. I agree although to be fair in spite having the drill failing in the same way twice knocking my confidence in the drill they have impressed me with their customer service.
My one has seen a lot over time and I feel like it's lost it's edge. It seems to struggle with just 6mm concrete drilling quite often and needs to be pulled out mid drilling for dust 3~ times for a 2 inch deep hole or it will start to stall. I used to smash out 12mm holes in concrete regularly and it would even do 16mm at 3" deep without complaining.. I guess nothing lasts forever. I was hoping there's a way to clean/grease/maintain it I didn't know about.
Since owning this drill I've now had the trigger switch break a second time on this drill. To be fair Makita have fixed it twice. Which shows good customer service but, does make me less confident in this drills durability. Especially as it's the tool I use the least and the only Makita tool I've had break. The good news is I've found I can buy the parts needed to repair the problem myself for around £20 so at least it's an affordable albeit inconvenience should it break in the same way again. Great performance but, make sure you've read the small print and get the certificate off to make sure you are covered for the full three years. Otherwise you risk not being covered by this potential loophole.
The makita is light and works well, but with the 18v 5a battery it still is not good enough for holes in concrete. Maybe a couple of small holes, but not big holes with a diameter of 12 or bigger. I used it alot on the construction side. I love makita more and more. I always had DeWalt or Hitachi but now i only get Makita. And the cordless drill i choose Hilti.
Tim van Gool This Rotary Hammer should not be expected to do 12 inch holes in concrete. You are talking about very serious drilling. You need high amp motor and a cord for that. Hilti is good, but for the price of one Hilti drill you can get several Makita tools in their massive 18 volt family. The Makitas would still perform well and most of all pay for themselves and be cheaper. I can understand using Hilti for extreme Diamond Core drilling. But everyone has a preference. I just cannot make myself pay 1000 dollars for a cordless drill, when I could get alot of Quality Makita tools, that will still last for years.
Mideleast ain't bad spilling for folks that write back asswards: from right to left. Give em Muslims a brake. Let's see you spell something in Arabic...
The major draw back with this drill is the trigger. It's too long. When you are holding the drill with one hand, you can only grip the handle with two fingers.
***** I don't tolerate power tools powered from battery .. Combi drill and screwdriver is OK but grinder or hammer drill should be powered from the mains or proper generator if you're outside
A basic cordless hammer drill would be good for small jobs the occasional hole in concrete, and normal drilling which is why I will buy a cordless hammer drill, but I do hate cordless skill saws, have not used a cordless grinder yet, but do find the skill saws among most brands of the cordless type pretty crap, in comparison to mains.
I have the exact same one and it handles drilling in concrete very well. Up to 12x800 holes are no problem. It's just so much more efficient to have it cordless on the work floor.
Palpac I have the skill saw and the grinder and both are totally reliant on a steady hand and just pure experience. They are much harder to use than corded ones but brilliant once you learn. The 18v skill saw is a great tool when running around a building site but 1. It needs a sharp blade 2. It has no power to spare on forcing the blade round any twist. If you cut with a guide, it will glide through a worktop with ease but when freehand, you really need to have a good feel for what the machine is doing and when and why it's starting to groan. Any twist causing the sides of the blade to drag in the cut and it's problems. A corded tool will just force it through so sloppy technique goes unnoticed. The grinder has saved me untold time and effort. I use that thing for cutting almost everything besides wood. 1. The 1mm thick, steel cutting disks are what makes it such a beast but it's the same rules as with the skill saw. You have to be able to feel and hear that motor like it's a part of you and if you can, it will slice through a car. Every time I let someone else use it for anything, it's the same start, stop, start, stop, "I think this battery is almost out".. It's so annoying too when I can hear from a distance exactly how much battery there is and exactly what he is doing wrong as I hear the blade getting twisted in the cut and dragged to a halt and it makes me cringe till I decide to just do his cutting for him. I hated both these tools at first and I was convinced I'd wasted my money. Over time I learned how to use them and now they are part of my every day arsenal.
Yeah I don't like others using my tools either, they are usually pretty rough on them, I'm sure they will have there place for certain jobs, my main saw at work Is a Makita 9 and a 1/4, just some way's these other saws are laid out I just don't like.
This is the 5th tile project we've done where we've removed the old tile before installing new tile, and the first one with this tool ruclips.net/user/postUgkxqqoaX03nrziKwF7Bjjcc71YzLEleMvOS . I want to cry for all the unnecessary work we've done in the past. With this tool, we removed tile surrounding a fireplace, as well as the hearth tile, set in loads of cement, in less than an hour. I highly recommend this tool. It was easy to use, and very satisfying watching the tile literally fall off the wall.
*Works as described , **MyBest.Tools** breaking out rock in my yard to install post for mailbox , fencing and trenches . We built the house on a high point that is mostly rock and this is a tool that helps for installing anything in this ground.*
I bought one of these drills based on Alan's review and for the first few uses it worked very well. Until it developed a fault where it would only work in chisel mode if at all. I've used Makita tools for 15 years and never had a problem. I've returned the drill and Makita are in the process of dealing with it. So I shall have to see how well the warranty process works. My only criticism so far is that even if you have the original receipt they won't honour the three year warranty which is widely advertised if it has not been registered within 30 days. I can see no reason why this should be the case as they could send the certificate with the product at the time of purchase. It does make me suspect that the only reason they would use the 30 day registration process is so they have a means of not covering the tool for the three year period should someone not know about the registration process, forget or not bother believing that a genuine warranty would cover them automatically from the point of purchase.
It called "The BLAME GAME'.
Yes giving themselves a loophole so they can't take the blame for not honouring the warranty. I agree although to be fair in spite having the drill failing in the same way twice knocking my confidence in the drill they have impressed me with their customer service.
i still have my bhr 200 from 12 years ago it rocks still with new batts
Excellent review - Thank you.
Impressive review.
I like makita I love makita
I'M IN LOVE WITH MINE!!!
My one has seen a lot over time and I feel like it's lost it's edge. It seems to struggle with just 6mm concrete drilling quite often and needs to be pulled out mid drilling for dust 3~ times for a 2 inch deep hole or it will start to stall.
I used to smash out 12mm holes in concrete regularly and it would even do 16mm at 3" deep without complaining.. I guess nothing lasts forever.
I was hoping there's a way to clean/grease/maintain it I didn't know about.
Great video, but did he just give everyone the birdie at the end?
Isnt the dhp481 drill for drilling in wood and metal ?
The dhr242/3 can drill in metal and wood to ?
Since owning this drill I've now had the trigger switch break a second time on this drill. To be fair Makita have fixed it twice. Which shows good customer service but, does make me less confident in this drills durability. Especially as it's the tool I use the least and the only Makita tool I've had break. The good news is I've found I can buy the parts needed to repair the problem myself for around £20 so at least it's an affordable albeit inconvenience should it break in the same way again. Great performance but, make sure you've read the small print and get the certificate off to make sure you are covered for the full three years. Otherwise you risk not being covered by this potential loophole.
Excellent tool
Great review
If you please. We have to break Bnth inside Hilti happened. How could out through it ?? Thanks
The makita is light and works well, but with the 18v 5a battery it still is not good enough for holes in concrete. Maybe a couple of small holes, but not big holes with a diameter of 12 or bigger. I used it alot on the construction side. I love makita more and more. I always had DeWalt or Hitachi but now i only get Makita. And the cordless drill i choose Hilti.
Tim van Gool This Rotary Hammer should not be expected to do 12 inch holes in concrete. You are talking about very serious drilling. You need high amp motor and a cord for that. Hilti is good, but for the price of one Hilti drill you can get several Makita tools in their massive 18 volt family. The Makitas would still perform well and most of all pay for themselves and be cheaper. I can understand using Hilti for extreme Diamond Core drilling. But everyone has a preference. I just cannot make myself pay 1000 dollars for a cordless drill, when I could get alot of Quality Makita tools, that will still last for years.
Looks good for boring out door leafs for lock kits .....
How do you use the scrapper bit from rotating like the screw bit. I just need it to cut through a 3" block concrete step in bathroom. Thanks!
Mia W. There is a switch on the side which will change functions
where I get this in India
How much is it. ?
I need to buy one...from where i can got it at midelleast
Thanks & best regards
You can find it here www.buyaparcel.com/p/buyaparcel/?wpsc_live_search=bhr243&Search=Search
"Where can i got it at?" LOL
Mideleast ain't bad spilling for folks that write back asswards: from right to left. Give em Muslims a brake. Let's see you spell something in Arabic...
This one time
In band camp !
I need this how much cast is this
Dara Nagaraju m?bznn9mfbbc
台灣有賣嗎？
Excellant....
Its not THAT good...
It's the closest thing you'll find to owning a Zorg ZF-1
mightynobble я
mightynobble makita riptura
The major draw back with this drill is the trigger. It's too long. When you are holding the drill with one hand, you can only grip the handle with two fingers.
may dad haf 12v batery af
makita
cuantas horas dura la bateria
woood vwry wooood
هل يوجد من ياعدني في شرائها فقط يتصل بي وانا اشتريها منه
you won't find that at Harbor Freight.
Samo josip nakic 1950
اولادي اغلي اناس
Hii ok
خرب ماكو هيج شي
haf yo 12v batary af af makita
نلللبيي
the guy is so creepy
Lascite perdere questi giocattoli, hitachi è 10 volte superiore a makita, attrezzature da hobbisti a vengono vendute per professionali.......
This kind of drill should be powered from the mains only.
***** I don't tolerate power tools powered from battery .. Combi drill and screwdriver is OK but grinder or hammer drill should be powered from the mains or proper generator if you're outside
A basic cordless hammer drill would be good for small jobs the occasional hole in concrete, and normal drilling which is why I will buy a cordless hammer drill, but I do hate cordless skill saws, have not used a cordless grinder yet, but do find the skill saws among most brands of the cordless type pretty crap, in comparison to mains.
I have the exact same one and it handles drilling in concrete very well. Up to 12x800 holes are no problem. It's just so much more efficient to have it cordless on the work floor.
Palpac I have the skill saw and the grinder and both are totally reliant on a steady hand and just pure experience. They are much harder to use than corded ones but brilliant once you learn.
The 18v skill saw is a great tool when running around a building site but
1. It needs a sharp blade
2. It has no power to spare on forcing the blade round any twist.
If you cut with a guide, it will glide through a worktop with ease but when freehand, you really need to have a good feel for what the machine is doing and when and why it's starting to groan. Any twist causing the sides of the blade to drag in the cut and it's problems. A corded tool will just force it through so sloppy technique goes unnoticed.
The grinder has saved me untold time and effort. I use that thing for cutting almost everything besides wood.
1. The 1mm thick, steel cutting disks are what makes it such a beast but it's the same rules as with the skill saw. You have to be able to feel and hear that motor like it's a part of you and if you can, it will slice through a car.
Every time I let someone else use it for anything, it's the same start, stop, start, stop, "I think this battery is almost out"..
It's so annoying too when I can hear from a distance exactly how much battery there is and exactly what he is doing wrong as I hear the blade getting twisted in the cut and dragged to a halt and it makes me cringe till I decide to just do his cutting for him.
I hated both these tools at first and I was convinced I'd wasted my money. Over time I learned how to use them and now they are part of my every day arsenal.
Yeah I don't like others using my tools either, they are usually pretty rough on them, I'm sure they will have there place for certain jobs, my main saw at work Is a Makita 9 and a 1/4, just some way's these other saws are laid out I just don't like.