Yet again I miss my cross slide having no T-slots. The Myford certainly is great in that respect. Long ago I managed a lot of milling on my old Raglan lathe but not as easily as you manage. Great result with the new tool holder... lovely work.
Hello Steve,ex machinist here,nice quality work as usual I see.Just a point on the drilling through hole ,I used to use tail stocks and block as a buffer to equalise push pressure against the saddles.As you know with only one leadscrew and worn gibs maybe, you get slight angled pressure on drilling hole.Obviously this is ok on none critical work,and it would be nice to have double leadscrews driven or centralised.Just a minor point Steve, as I also used to work on very fine critical parts. All the best. Re. Trevor
Another brilliant video Steve if it wasn’t for people like you blokes like me who are new to lathe work would be stuffed I’ve learned so much from you and your videos and I’m putting it to practice thanks for all the hard work put into your videos all the best god bless
Very good informational video Steve. I have been getting my carbide end mills from here in the United States but very costly here. I had seen them on Bang goods website but was not sure of them. After your video I will be ordering a set to give them a try. Thanks for the good videos.
Steve, thank you for another instructive video, however, it would be even more instructive if you also mention RPMs and feedrates in demonstrations like this. That would enable viewers to decide whether buying such tools is useful for their own machine. Regards, Herman from across the North Sea.
I like this. It also seems that your lathe benefits from first class bearings as there was no bounce back once the tool tip touched. The majority of ML7s these days suffer from totally knackered bearings that unfortunately renders the lathe useless.
Mine did have knackered hearings when I got it. After wasting a lot of time trying second hand spindle and bearings I splashed out on a new hardened spindle with bronze bearings from Myford UK. It was very costly but then it is the main part of the lathe. The lathe is great now but I would still prefer a tapered roller bearing set-up like on the mini lathe if it was possible.
Hi Steve, Nice work, was wondering if you considered mounting the blade directly in the tool post instead of using the holder? I have been considering one for mine but haven’t decided how much functionality to include in the post or just use it for parting off. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Raymond
Hi Raymond, Thanks..I did think of that, but then decided to make the tool-post more versatile. In the end I made the shank holding slot wider. I did this because I found a variation in the centre height measurement between the different thickness blades. The GTN 3 and the GTN2. I want to be able to use all the different thickness part-off blades, because they are also excellent for deep grooves and the GTN2 is great for use to save expensive materials like brass. I may make another tool-post at some point. I saw somewhere where people mount a quick-change on the back as well, which maybe useful.
I know this is an old video, but I'm just catching up. I have just got my elderly Myford Super 7 lathe up and running but I'm a novice and I'm having problems parting off. I wonder whether you would have time to answer some questions for me about the Banggood style parting tools and holders ? Banggood seem to be out of stock, but the tools are available from Arc Euro, albeit more expensively. First, have you found the 26mm tool with 2mm tips satisfactory, and secondly will the holder with a 12mm shank work well in the Myford rear tool post with the tool inverted, as you use it ? I can't visualise whether there would be any difficulty in getting the cutting edge of the tool to centre height. The tools are not exactly cheap, and I would not like to make an expensive mistake. Many thanks.
Hi George, I'm not sure about the 26mm one being use in the original Myford toolpost as I sold my one off. If I can remember rightly I think that it wouldn't otherwise I would have used it. I think this is why made the new toolpost in the first place. Regards Steve
Another great video Steve, thank you. Just wondering if your scribed line and cut out in the block was bang on as far as center height goes or did you have to shim the tool holder up a wee bit? I think if I did that cut by eye to the scribed line, I would have trouble getting it exactly at the correct height.
I actually decided to cut it a bit wider as the two different 32mm blades were on different centre heights. So I machined it about 1.5 mm lower and about 5mm wider at the top. Then I use shim to get it spot-on for each blade.
Hi Steve, surely you must have mentioned it somewhere, but I would like to know what kind or brand of cutting oil you are using. Is it water soluble? I always get stains on the slides with water soluble oils.
Hi Robert, To tell you the truth I use ordinary new car engine oil at the moment as I have run out of the cutting oil. Otherwise I use any brand of neat non-soluble cutting oil. The engine oil seems to work well and I haven't noticed anything like extra tool wear. I often get bottles on new engine oil from my local recycle shop, so I may just continue using that. It may not be good though for prolonged skin contact, so I only tend to use it on parting-off or drilling.
Some more very fine work on the Myford! Thank you! Do you collect and recycle your oil from the dripper? I am very stingy and tend to recycle everything I can so I can buy more machine tools. I also distil my used and dirty acetone, along with the ethanol and kerosene fractions. Saves a lot of money and obviates the need to take used solvents to the recycle center. Often I just filter the solvents and oils to remove particulate matter if they are not too dirty.
Hi Louis, I normally catch it in a tray, filter it and recycle the oil. I usually use cutting oil but in this video I was using new car engine oil. It seemed to work as good as the cutting oil, but I don't know whether there would be any significant comparable wear on the tools not using the proper oil? Its great that you recycle everything. Regards Steve
Jim Pritz. Yea Jim it does seem to take forever here in the United States to get a order from bangood tools. I have ordered twice from them and it has taken at lest 4 weeks to get each order. I have got a 80 mm 4 jaw self centering chuck and some carbide cutters ordered now and it has been 2 weeks and nothing yet. I always seem to get my order but never in a timely manner. Good luck.
Hi Jim, On average it takes about two weeks. Some of the recent things I've bought though have been sent from either the UK or Europe. I'm pretty sure they have warehouses here for some stock.
ha, you must be new here interestingly, Steve musta got on the chickens good side,, 'cuz they are usually noisier than that they sometimes just about shoo Steve out of that shed
Hi I only normally cut .020" inch deep, as I like to be really careful when milling on the lathe. The lathe is good for milling but obviously not as solid and rigid as a proper milling machine. There is a lot of overhang to take into consideration, particularly when using the milling slide.
Yet again I miss my cross slide having no T-slots. The Myford certainly is great in that respect.
Long ago I managed a lot of milling on my old Raglan lathe but not as easily as you manage.
Great result with the new tool holder... lovely work.
Hello Steve,ex machinist here,nice quality work as usual I see.Just a point on the drilling through hole ,I used to use tail stocks and block as a buffer to equalise push pressure against the saddles.As you know with only one leadscrew and worn gibs maybe, you get slight angled pressure on drilling hole.Obviously this is ok on none critical work,and it would be nice to have double leadscrews driven or centralised.Just a minor point Steve, as I also used to work on very fine critical parts.
All the best. Re. Trevor
Nice Steve! You never dissapoint. Can't wait till the next one.
Informative video as always Steve. Not having a mill, it's nice to see milling work done on a lathe.
Another brilliant video Steve if it wasn’t for people like you blokes like me who are new to lathe work would be stuffed I’ve learned so much from you and your videos and I’m putting it to practice thanks for all the hard work put into your videos all the best god bless
Well thank you for watching and your encouraging comments. It makes it all the more worthwhile for me to hear things like this. Regards Steve
another great video Steve,
Well done...waiting for the next one.......take care....
Very good informational video Steve. I have been getting my carbide end mills from here in the United States but very costly here. I had seen them on Bang goods website but was not sure of them. After your video I will be ordering a set to give them a try. Thanks for the good videos.
That is a lovely angle plate you've got there, Liked the way you marked the post for the holder.
ATB
Cliff.
Hi Cliff, I found and bought the angle plate from my local recycling center a few years ago. These larger ones seem to be quite rare...Regards Steve
Lovely job Steve, great work as usual.
Nice job ! Like your work alot. Thanks
Steve, thank you for another instructive video, however, it would be even more instructive if you also mention RPMs and feedrates in demonstrations like this. That would enable viewers to decide whether buying such tools is useful for their own machine. Regards, Herman from across the North Sea.
I like this. It also seems that your lathe benefits from first class bearings as there was no bounce back once the tool tip touched. The majority of ML7s these days suffer from totally knackered bearings that unfortunately renders the lathe useless.
Mine did have knackered hearings when I got it. After wasting a lot of time trying second hand spindle and bearings I splashed out on a new hardened spindle with bronze bearings from Myford UK. It was very costly but then it is the main part of the lathe. The lathe is great now but I would still prefer a tapered roller bearing set-up like on the mini lathe if it was possible.
@@SteveJordan I had a look at the RGB/Myford UK after I watched your video but it seems that these bearings are no longer available or not on offer.
Hi Steve, Once again GREAT video, what is that item just to the left of the selector arm??
Hi Allen I think you have seen my new brass locking handle on the carriage depth clock mount? Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
Nice work, was wondering if you considered mounting the blade directly in the tool post instead of using the holder? I have been considering one for mine but haven’t decided how much functionality to include in the post or just use it for parting off.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Raymond
Hi Raymond, Thanks..I did think of that, but then decided to make the tool-post more versatile. In the end I made the shank holding slot wider. I did this because I found a variation in the centre height measurement between the different thickness blades. The GTN 3 and the GTN2. I want to be able to use all the different thickness part-off blades, because they are also excellent for deep grooves and the GTN2 is great for use to save expensive materials like brass. I may make another tool-post at some point. I saw somewhere where people mount a quick-change on the back as well, which maybe useful.
I know this is an old video, but I'm just catching up. I have just got my elderly Myford Super 7 lathe up and running but I'm a novice and I'm having problems parting off. I wonder whether you would have time to answer some questions for me about the Banggood style parting tools and holders ? Banggood seem to be out of stock, but the tools are available from Arc Euro, albeit more expensively. First, have you found the 26mm tool with 2mm tips satisfactory, and secondly will the holder with a 12mm shank work well in the Myford rear tool post with the tool inverted, as you use it ? I can't visualise whether there would be any difficulty in getting the cutting edge of the tool to centre height. The tools are not exactly cheap, and I would not like to make an expensive mistake. Many thanks.
Hi George, I'm not sure about the 26mm one being use in the original Myford toolpost as I sold my one off. If I can remember rightly I think that it wouldn't otherwise I would have used it. I think this is why made the new toolpost in the first place. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thanks Steve: perhaps I'll phone Arc Euro and see what they say about compatibility.
Another great video Steve, thank you. Just wondering if your scribed line and cut out in the block was bang on as far as center height goes or did you have to shim the tool holder up a wee bit? I think if I did that cut by eye to the scribed line, I would have trouble getting it exactly at the correct height.
I actually decided to cut it a bit wider as the two different 32mm blades were on different centre heights. So I machined it about 1.5 mm lower and about 5mm wider at the top. Then I use shim to get it spot-on for each blade.
Hi Steve, surely you must have mentioned it somewhere, but I would like to know what kind or brand of cutting oil you are using. Is it water soluble? I always get stains on the slides with water soluble oils.
Hi Robert, To tell you the truth I use ordinary new car engine oil at the moment as I have run out of the cutting oil. Otherwise I use any brand of neat non-soluble cutting oil. The engine oil seems to work well and I haven't noticed anything like extra tool wear. I often get bottles on new engine oil from my local recycle shop, so I may just continue using that. It may not be good though for prolonged skin contact, so I only tend to use it on parting-off or drilling.
What coolant pump and system are you using Steve
Hi Trevor. It is this one here:-
ruclips.net/video/OgjrLqbNVSY/видео.html
Some more very fine work on the Myford! Thank you!
Do you collect and recycle your oil from the dripper? I am very stingy and tend to recycle everything I can so I can buy more machine tools. I also distil my used and dirty acetone, along with the ethanol and kerosene fractions. Saves a lot of money and obviates the need to take used solvents to the recycle center. Often I just filter the solvents and oils to remove particulate matter if they are not too dirty.
Hi Louis, I normally catch it in a tray, filter it and recycle the oil. I usually use cutting oil but in this video I was using new car engine oil. It seemed to work as good as the cutting oil, but I don't know whether there would be any significant comparable wear on the tools not using the proper oil? Its great that you recycle everything. Regards Steve
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What kind of delivery time do you have from Banggood where you are located. It seems like we wait forever here in the states.
Jim Pritz. Yea Jim it does seem to take forever here in the United States to get a order from bangood tools. I have ordered twice from them and it has taken at lest 4 weeks to get each order. I have got a 80 mm 4 jaw self centering chuck and some carbide cutters ordered now and it has been 2 weeks and nothing yet. I always seem to get my order but never in a timely manner. Good luck.
Hi Jim, On average it takes about two weeks. Some of the recent things I've bought though have been sent from either the UK or Europe. I'm pretty sure they have warehouses here for some stock.
😍😍😍 A chicken in the background ??
ha, you must be new here
interestingly, Steve musta got on the chickens good side,,
'cuz they are usually noisier than that
they sometimes just about shoo Steve out of that shed
What's your depths of cut when milling ??
Hi I only normally cut .020" inch deep, as I like to be really careful when milling on the lathe. The lathe is good for milling but obviously not as solid and rigid as a proper milling machine. There is a lot of overhang to take into consideration, particularly when using the milling slide.
Steve Jordan thanks steve