seems like it could be interesting content. One thing I personally would love to see is a deep dive into rasp killing on a catless setup. I'm sure there are a lot of people out there like me that want to run a high boost tune and pulley, thus removing the cats is a good idea, but still want to keep a reasonable sound level. I've seen a bunch of different attempts at getting rid of the rasp, some more successful than others, but the topic seems under-discussed.
Yes for sure this is a great video. I would also love to see a segment on what would be done differently if pulling the engine without a lift. Thanks as always for the great content
@@ianp0817 mate....I have something pretty good for my setup with is an 8R SQ5. First off, I fitted a cat-back Milltek system. Sounded good. Then I removed the cats, which provided the worst sound and rasp imaginable. So I fitted high-flow sport cats further down the system by literally splitting the milltek downpipes and putting two cats in there. That sorted out 70% of the rasp but it still sounded rough. Next, I removed the first muffler from the milltek system, the one that follows the downpipes, and replaced that single muffler box with two flowmaster Super Hp-2 Mufflers (one for each bank) and THAT provided the best sound ever. If you're struggling with rasp on our setup, I honestly recommend some form of x-pipe and then some flowmaster Super HP2s - which then feeds into your normal back-boxes where your tailpipes are.
I pulled mine like 2 weeks ago. I pulled off the core support, left the subframe in the car and hoisted it out the front. All in all it was pretty simple and possibly better if you dont have access to a lift.
I just got a pair of 3.0TFSI engines, one out of an A6 and one out of a Q7. I did forget to get the bellhousing bolts so I could get both of them on an engine stand, and for some reason, google doesn’t give me a clear answer… can you or someone tell me what size bolts and thread pattern I’ll need just so I’ll be able to get them on the stands and get started on working with them? I appreciate any help
hi a have a 2013 Audi Q7 that needs an engine. i found a 2013 Audi a6 engine for good price both are 3.0t wondering if it will work with my 2013 Audi Q7
Hi, I have an a6 c7.5 2015 in south america, brazil! I have a suspension noise that I cant get rid of! With your experience can you guide me on this journey. I already replaced, the pivot, shock absorber, the cushion too, the bottom struts, the upper and some bushings and im still getting a metal to metal noise!
Hey man. Without seeing the car in person it would be impossible to help diagnose a noise. I suggest taking it to a shop to inspect it if you can't locate the source of the noise.
is it normal for the oil in these engines to smell gas? Most people say its failing hpfp but some people say that it is from the car being taken on short drives where the engine doesn't get fully upto temp and can cause for some gas to mix with the oil. I just wanted to hear your opinion.
If you are smelling gas in your oil then you may have a bad hpfp seal. This could do a lot of damage. I'd either replace the hpfp, or at least send an oil sample to Blackstone to be analyzed. That will tell you for sure
Hi. Since you've upgraded the crank pulley for some time now. Would like to know have the solid crank pulley caused any damage or premature wear to the crankshaft or bearing? I'm still debating whether I should stick with audi crank pulley or upgrade it to the solid pulley. Cheers mate. Enjoy all your videos. It's always very insightful to me
@@AudiC7Ownerscannot confirm or deny Sadly that thing is so pretty, I'm actually sad it's meeting is end.... But it is for the greater good. Maybe mad scientist will want to swap over the dl501.....😅
Hi, I have an a6 c7.5 2015 in south america, brazil! I have a suspension noise that I cant get rid of! With your experience can you guide me on this journey. I already replaced, the pivot, shock absorber, the cushion too, the bottom struts, the upper and some bushings and im still getting a metal to metal noise!
Is the ground and wiring necessary to remove under neath the car under the under carriage? I don’t believe I’ve seen anyone else remove those and don’t see how they relate to the engine pull?
So there are two ways to do this: 1) detach the wiring harness from the engine, but leave it attached to the car. 2) detach the wiring harness from the car and let it come out with the engine. We did #2 which, in my opinion, is the easiest option.
@ Yes, however I don’t see how the ground wire underneath the side undercarriage of the car connects to the wiring harness. I’m taking the wire harness out with the engine and I don’t see how it connects at all there
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Would you guys like a video specifically covering all the failures/broken parts/difficulties of the engine swap? Comment below.
seems like it could be interesting content. One thing I personally would love to see is a deep dive into rasp killing on a catless setup. I'm sure there are a lot of people out there like me that want to run a high boost tune and pulley, thus removing the cats is a good idea, but still want to keep a reasonable sound level. I've seen a bunch of different attempts at getting rid of the rasp, some more successful than others, but the topic seems under-discussed.
Yes for sure this is a great video. I would also love to see a segment on what would be done differently if pulling the engine without a lift. Thanks as always for the great content
I will have that video coming soon
Check out @audi3point0work's channel. He pulled his engine in his driveway
@@ianp0817 mate....I have something pretty good for my setup with is an 8R SQ5. First off, I fitted a cat-back Milltek system. Sounded good. Then I removed the cats, which provided the worst sound and rasp imaginable. So I fitted high-flow sport cats further down the system by literally splitting the milltek downpipes and putting two cats in there. That sorted out 70% of the rasp but it still sounded rough. Next, I removed the first muffler from the milltek system, the one that follows the downpipes, and replaced that single muffler box with two flowmaster Super Hp-2 Mufflers (one for each bank) and THAT provided the best sound ever. If you're struggling with rasp on our setup, I honestly recommend some form of x-pipe and then some flowmaster Super HP2s - which then feeds into your normal back-boxes where your tailpipes are.
You guys are amazing! I was searching for a C7 engine removal guide just yesterday, and here it is-voilà!
I pulled mine like 2 weeks ago. I pulled off the core support, left the subframe in the car and hoisted it out the front. All in all it was pretty simple and possibly better if you dont have access to a lift.
I just got a pair of 3.0TFSI engines, one out of an A6 and one out of a Q7. I did forget to get the bellhousing bolts so I could get both of them on an engine stand, and for some reason, google doesn’t give me a clear answer… can you or someone tell me what size bolts and thread pattern I’ll need just so I’ll be able to get them on the stands and get started on working with them? I appreciate any help
hi a have a 2013 Audi Q7 that needs an engine. i found a 2013 Audi a6 engine for good price both are 3.0t wondering if it will work with my 2013 Audi Q7
3days ago wow mine is coming out today!!
Have fun!
Is it easier to take the engine out to fix the exhaust manifold on the driver side or is it better to replace it in while it’s still in the car
You cannot access the bolts to the exhaust manifold with the engine in the car
Hi, I have an a6 c7.5 2015 in south america, brazil! I have a suspension noise that I cant get rid of! With your experience can you guide me on this journey. I already replaced, the pivot, shock absorber, the cushion too, the bottom struts, the upper and some bushings and im still getting a metal to metal noise!
Hey man. Without seeing the car in person it would be impossible to help diagnose a noise. I suggest taking it to a shop to inspect it if you can't locate the source of the noise.
Got a question! I have a crec 3.0t 2016 audi a7 and im getting P050A cold start idle valve issue code! Are you familiar or know anything about it ?
is it normal for the oil in these engines to smell gas? Most people say its failing hpfp but some people say that it is from the car being taken on short drives where the engine doesn't get fully upto temp and can cause for some gas to mix with the oil. I just wanted to hear your opinion.
If you are smelling gas in your oil then you may have a bad hpfp seal. This could do a lot of damage. I'd either replace the hpfp, or at least send an oil sample to Blackstone to be analyzed. That will tell you for sure
@ thank you for your input
Hi. Since you've upgraded the crank pulley for some time now. Would like to know have the solid crank pulley caused any damage or premature wear to the crankshaft or bearing? I'm still debating whether I should stick with audi crank pulley or upgrade it to the solid pulley.
Cheers mate. Enjoy all your videos. It's always very insightful to me
Hey man! No issues at all. And across the platform there is no evidence that solid upgraded crank pullies cause any damage.
@@AudiC7Owners cheers mate, really appreciate your input. i will get the pulley upgraded.
Why did you pull it again?
Swapping in an AM Tuned Built engine
Hello there :D
I have the easiest removal option you need to try
It involves a big truck and some chains...
And possibly some questionable moral minded friends
Is this how you guys are getting the manual out of the B8?
@@AudiC7Ownerscannot confirm or deny
Sadly that thing is so pretty, I'm actually sad it's meeting is end.... But it is for the greater good. Maybe mad scientist will want to swap over the dl501.....😅
Can't wait to see it happen!
Hi, I have an a6 c7.5 2015 in south america, brazil! I have a suspension noise that I cant get rid of! With your experience can you guide me on this journey. I already replaced, the pivot, shock absorber, the cushion too, the bottom struts, the upper and some bushings and im still getting a metal to metal noise!
Is the ground and wiring necessary to remove under neath the car under the under carriage? I don’t believe I’ve seen anyone else remove those and don’t see how they relate to the engine pull?
So there are two ways to do this:
1) detach the wiring harness from the engine, but leave it attached to the car.
2) detach the wiring harness from the car and let it come out with the engine.
We did #2 which, in my opinion, is the easiest option.
@ Yes, however I don’t see how the ground wire underneath the side undercarriage of the car connects to the wiring harness. I’m taking the wire harness out with the engine and I don’t see how it connects at all there
Which side? The passenger side connection?
Also, what year/make/model car?
@@AudiC7Owners I believe it’s drivers side. Showed it at 12:15 in the video, I have a 2016 S5