I own two Kubota and love them! You need some proper tires on the rear... AG tires to match the front. Get them fluid filled with beet juice and it will add @ 400 pounds. Also set the wheels at the widest set up and might even consider spacers. Add a 55 gallon barrel filled with cement on your rear forks and you will be all set to handle it! That Kubota will out last both of us!!!!
@@Rattlerjake1 a decent set of proper tires on the back, R1 or R4 preferably though these will require new rims, filled with water or rimguard(or equivalent) will add several hundred pounds to the rear which, combined with the wider stance of the new(er) tires will stabilize the tractor on hills quite a bit and give better traction for level ground activities and then you can add a ballast box to the rear lift when you are doing loaded work(many people use concrete filled 55-gallon drums, but if you prefer to use a heavy hitch or something that works too). Basically, it's two different types of ballast. Weight added at the rear axle pulls the center of mass back toward the center or slightly to the rear to return the tractor to a balanced neutral stance with the loader adding so much weight in the front, but the rear ballast actually serves as a counterweight to the loader payload helping keep all 4 wheels on the ground. Honestly, the original reseller of that tractor should never have let it off the lot in that configuration.
It's very important to get the correct tire size ratio between the front and rear, else the 4wd will wear out quickly. The fronts has to "claw" at the ground (road speed of the fronts has to be slightly higher than the rear) .
My husband and I enjoy your videos. You have a knack of creating interesting videos without the drama and ego that some channels seem to have. Thank you.
At the rate you're going, soon your biggest problem will be choosing which machine to use for your projects! ;) Anyway, seeing the deep "dish" of the rear wheels, along with the extra holes inside of them, makes me think that you were meant to add wheel weights on that thing. Speaking of that, I remember seeing a very old tractor with custom "weights" added by a farmer. He took the wheels off, laid them on their sides, and filled the entire "dish" portion with concrete :D The only unfilled area was the spot around the bolt holes and hub. While it certainly added plenty of weight, I don't think that was the best way of doing it ;)
We had a Massey Ferguson 35 with a front loader and a 200 liter barrel with concrete and steel on the back so we could use it without to many problems. Thank you for sharing your amazing journey. God bless you and your family.
@@fynbo1007 When we did it, once the concrete had set, the barrel was pretty much irrelevant - it was just a mould, although we didn't bother removing it. We'd embedded an old draw bar (for the swing arms) and a bolt bracket (for the top link) through the barrel before we poured.
Paul Womack , you are right, but it was my father who decided what to do. And he wanted a barrel without any damage, we told him it doesn’t matter. But then he decided a larger barrel and he is the one who paid the bills, so he is always right 🥴🥴
Them tractors are like Timex Watches. I had a Kubota L 2650. It was 30 years old when i traded it in on a new J.D.3025. Long story, short... i would love to have my Kubota back. A way better tractor than what i got.
Yup, not rocket science this mate, a good stiff roll bar has saved the life of more than one inattentive/careless/unlucky operator. With a roll over protection device installed, sit tight, hang on to the wheel and ride it out if she goes over, chances are good you’ll walk away.
I wish I could buy my dad one of these save him doing everything by hand and pushing a mower for 4 days to get the grass cut . Great video and find Marty thanks for sharing
I must admit ...You are a champion !!!! A great pleasure to witness your hard work done with so much great are !! thank you for the videos !!!! BRAVO !
Bigger rear tyres and water ballasting will make a huge difference to that machine, Marty. The advantage of water in the tyres is it adds the weight at the lowest possible point, so it not only adds weight, but lowers the centre of gravity overall. Good score. 👍
Very good catch, indeed ! I got myself a little Kubota too a few weeks back. They are not stable at all; the one I bought caused two accidents (the last one costed the owner his life, sadly). Please consider putting a ROPS on it. I plan to do that on mine. Keep safe, and keep up the good videos, I really enjoy them. cheers mate, and greetings from France.
@@MartyT must be used with a lap belt or its a real mess !! been over twice in mini diggers and no problem because of the belt. You are a very lucky guy tho, place, outlook and the toys you get !! enjoy !!
We put a roll bar on our Kubota, same model as one in video, I've done a video on it on my channel, plus mine came with 9.5 -24 tractor tires on the back,(8.3-24 ) on it now. If you pick up a 20" rim you can go much wider, I've looked into it a lot, something like 320-65-20 and that would leave it much more stable.
Ya you can see in the video how it is fairly unstable. The tractor dealers should never let them leave the dealership in such an unsafe configuration. You guys did a great job on the tractor and very impressive spreading. You can make your own wheel weights by using an old drum brake hub off a vehicle. Welding a plate that will match your holes for your weight in your tractor wheel or burn your own holes if there isn't any existing holes. Weld the hub and adapter together. Then fill the brake drum with concrete and there you go! Homemade weights. I would put on a ROPS. Then that nice little machine with care will last you a lifetime. Good video and good equipment operating! Best Wishes M.H.
Wow good little 4 wheel drive loader tractor, She's a Beauty that's for sure just needs a little extra work to make it right you're just the person for the job cheers mate
Enjoyed the video. It looks like that driveway is a full-time job. Lots of maintenance required and machinery to keep it looking good. But you’re the man for the job keep up the good work!
If you get a drawbar at TSC, bolt it to the bottom of a 30 gallon barrel, on the front side of it, mount an angle iron with enough strap iron to make the barrel vertical. Put it on the 3 point, fill it up with gravel, makes the rear axle a lot steadier. Hello from north east Montana.
Wooooooow!!!!! You are Wheeler and Dealer, Aren't you Sir Marty????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!! Great Job!!!!! Now if you just go in to the rent a vehicle for hire Then would killin it!!!!!
One day Marty will walk outside and say, "well well, which machine do I want to use today", OH WAIT, He already does that!!! HaHaHa!!!🤣 NICE SCORE MARTY!!! Can I borrow your golden horseshoe for a piece...😁 Take care and God Bless my friend. 👍👍 Jay.
Hello Marty! Im from Texas & enjoy your content. I have a ford 3000 diesel & 50 acres. Some of your practical tips and advice make things a lot more fun when I. On an off day working on stuff up there. Ive got a 1932 catipillar crawler that has a 4 cylinder hercules. Its about half the size of the little bristol dozer. Also have a ford 1715 new holland with brush hog loader & 4x4 (ag tires all way around). A 1960 model 50 mf gasoline. I really enjoy watching you clean up and and the firewood and all that. My latest toy is a sachs dolmar 133 super.
Greetings from England. Nice road you got. I thought our London Streets were bad for potholes till I saw your vid...at least we can winge at the council, like its a national pastime.
I have a tiny kubota as well. Handy little tractor. You need to put a ballast weight on the 3 point. Also look into a toothbar for the front bucket. It'll make digging into piles like that much easier
@@MartyT there is a company here in the US that makes things like that. Heavyhitch.com i have also seen home made ballast weights. Take a 55 gallon drum and put a hitch bar through it and a top link for the 3rd point and fill it with rock or cement
The wheels can be dished out to give the tractor a wider track, better stability. Also you can add water to the tubes to add weight. I enjoy seeing the land compared to No Cal Foothills where I am. Similar climate. I rolled my JD 970 but with the loader on and a ROP no damage or injury. Thanks for sharing.
Besides adding a ROPS , short of buying wider tires to increase stability ; you might want to purchase an adapter for filling your rear tires with water , the added weight of the water will greatly increase the stability ( and it's cheap , both the adapter & the water ) .
When I worked in a forklift shop, when we had pitted or damaged hydraulic rams, we would grind the damage clean and repair them with JB Weld. Takes a little time to sand it to match the radius but it holds up really well.
I was actually disappointed :-( This seemed sooo easy compared to your usual. You'll have to make the next one a real stinker LOL. Great Vid as usual.....
Yep, get rid of those turf tires if you're not going to mow grass with it. They're useless in snow, mud and rocks. Next, do you "ballast" tires where you are? In North America we used to use calcium, but as we grow tired of rusted out rims, many have switched to other liquids. Windshield washer fluid, beet juice and the like. If you don't need the forks on t he back, get rid of them, added length without need mean having to watch two places when backing up. Both the forks and the bucket. I mounted a 45 gallon barrel on a frame for the 3 point hitch. added rocks till it worked well. nice purchase.
I have almost the exact model to that one, mine is 2 years newer kubota l2550, Got it a loader and forks for $3600 Cad ($6000 to $12000 typically where I am) Thought it had a Knock in the bottom, turned out to be an injector. Picked up a backhoe for it last fall for $3000. Been a fantastic little machine, had -28 a couple month ago and 4 foot of snow, she fired right up but snow was a bit much for her. They can't push or lift squat though without a counter weight, Get yourself a 45 gallon drum and stuck it on the 3pt full of water/sand or you will have your back in the air all day long. Only thing I hear bad about your's and mine is the clutch it a little weak, they apparently will slip and burn out easy if you work then too hard. Can't hurt to check you free play in the linkage.
I'd be changing those back tyres for your type of country, maybe a lug tyre and if you can put some water in them, it does make them more stable and acts as a counter weight for bucket work.
Owning one of these, I fully understand why the prior owner was scared of it. Even on perfectly flat ground they are tippy when lifting an uneven load.....add a 15 degree slope and they are worthless. They are way too light with way too narrow of a track for using them the way you use a normal tractor. Yes you can mitigate some of that by adding weight at the rear and such, but it is just plain easier/safer to get an old tractor with normal track and weight where you don't have to worry about every little load.
If you'll make you a rear gate for your trailer that has pins to swing on, and then a set of adjustable chains to attach at different places. You can vary the opening at the bottom, and allow better control of material coming out of bed of trailer. That'll save you so much time moving the material you dropped in excess, and also put your material where you need it. Thus saving trips back n forth to your material pile, as well as fuel for both the tractor, and haul vehicle.
Yes we actually talked about adding chains as you say it would control the flow of gravel, but this fill we used had big chunks of road in it so may have blocked the gap
Marty, you can flip your front wheels to increase width between the wheels. They should match the rear width once you do that. If you want to go further, spacers can be purchased to bolt onto the hubs (or made if you know someone with a mill). I've encountered this in the past with a Kubota. We had to widen the stance to straddle 6' produce beds.
That's a bleedin' death trap. There must be a spacer that can be added to widen out that rear end. Even with fluid in the rear tires and proper-size rear tires at that, I wouldn't even climb on that thing until its stance is about a foot wider at least. Be careful, Marty.
Hadn't seen this one until now , handy little machine there Marty . I'm a great believer in mechanical assistance . Whenever wherever necessary . Never make any work harder than it needs to be . If machines are there , use them . Faster easier . Makes sense . Could do with a roll hoop on it though better safety option . If you haven't got one . Make one . Keep up the excellent content , no one got an old roller laying around there Marty . Or Wally Stevens hand bitumen pump . .
Looks like you need to fill the tyres with water...great on those smaller machines to give them more stability and traction. And ballast weights. Otherwise once the rear wheels lift the front axle pivot allows the machine to tip over. Nice score. Also a 4 in 1 bucket is shallower and better for that work. That bucket is only designed for wood chips and sandy loam.
While at the dirt pile, why not turn the tractor around and back the forks into the hardend dirt and lift up to fracture the pile. Then go at it with the bucket.
with that model i believe you can ad a second set of rear tires for dualy configuration or wheel weights or both... those would help with ballast for scraping and lifting with a rear fork and even would help with stability... calcium fill is another cheep option to help.
That's a very nice tractor Marty. There's one for sale where I'm at. Kubota 3 gear 1 reverse with a rotavator,woodchipper and petrol powerwasher all for €3,650. I'm in the process of getting a cherry picker. Btw,if anyone wants me to upload a video of when I get my cherry picker ask me in the comments below. Will take a week or so.😁👌✌️
Put a mixture of antifreeze and water in those back tires and it will help tremendously. Here in the states we add the antifreeze to keep the water from freezing solid .good vid.
I have almost the exact same tractor. What I did was fill a plastic 55 gallon drum about half way full of concrete for a counter weight. Worked great. I drilled three holes in the barrel in a largish triangle on one side. That way you can insert so t shaped pieces through the holes before you pour the concrete. Let it set up around them. Then connect your three point to those arms and you have a nice. Really cheap counterweight. It changed the tractor 💯%.
Nice tractor!, many tractors have adjustable width tires, my kubota has four different widths. Also wheel weights or liquid in the tire will help greatly.
If you have an old hardwood pallet & 4 empty 44gal drums you could strap the drums down onto the pallet, fill them up with water as a counter weight in the back so your tractor will be more stable.
I had a similar model 4x4, I used a 4ft bush hog for a counter weight on the 3pt hitch (600 lbs) & added a bolt-on tooth bar on the loader for diggin. And for maintaining roads & cutt'n fields, I had a few close roll over events but all you gotta do is put the loader down with a lil' pressure till you get righted again. Also some models have expandable axles in the rear for greater stability on slopes. Hope that helps
Not a bad unit . Replacing the rear wheel and filling with beet juice. Instead of calcium is a rim saver. Maybe add a ROP would be a good idea. I am a fan of Kubota 👍 basic reliable tractors. I was responsible for quite a few of them. Have a great one 👍🇨🇦 Craig
@@MartyT No I was the head mechanic at a large 480 acre Golf facility with two full-size courses in one small. We have/had M8200 m5030 L4300 L3450 + 3 x L4600HST
Nice little kit you found there I would definitely look for some rollover protection for it and some weider back wheels with weights great video enjoy your videos
L1 Series 1983-1985 tough, well maintained. We have extreme slopes to mow along I-5, and the city worker had a remote controlled autonomous mower that he was controlling via pendant around his neck. It was beyond 45 degrees when i saw it...
Adding a rops would be a great idea where your on slopes a lot. Role over protection system. Rops. It usually includes a good seat and harness. Because if you fall out it can still fall on top of you.
I love the scenery where you live!!! Nothing but fat bald prairie here... Lots of tractors around though... as mentioned before, double or widen the rear wheels. Also you can weight the front and rear rims to add mass and lower the centre of gravity.
Хобби
I own two Kubota and love them! You need some proper tires on the rear... AG tires to match the front. Get them fluid filled with beet juice and it will add @ 400 pounds. Also set the wheels at the widest set up and might even consider spacers. Add a 55 gallon barrel filled with cement on your rear forks and you will be all set to handle it! That Kubota will out last both of us!!!!
Instead of the 55 gal barrel, get a decent set of rear wheel weights. Plus before you scoop up the gravel, back into it with the forks to break it up.
Solid advice on the wieght ballast
@@Rattlerjake1 a decent set of proper tires on the back, R1 or R4 preferably though these will require new rims, filled with water or rimguard(or equivalent) will add several hundred pounds to the rear which, combined with the wider stance of the new(er) tires will stabilize the tractor on hills quite a bit and give better traction for level ground activities and then you can add a ballast box to the rear lift when you are doing loaded work(many people use concrete filled 55-gallon drums, but if you prefer to use a heavy hitch or something that works too).
Basically, it's two different types of ballast. Weight added at the rear axle pulls the center of mass back toward the center or slightly to the rear to return the tractor to a balanced neutral stance with the loader adding so much weight in the front, but the rear ballast actually serves as a counterweight to the loader payload helping keep all 4 wheels on the ground.
Honestly, the original reseller of that tractor should never have let it off the lot in that configuration.
@@Rattlerjake1 Best reply yet. The forks would break it up nicely.
It's very important to get the correct tire size ratio between the front and rear, else the 4wd will wear out quickly. The fronts has to "claw" at the ground (road speed of the fronts has to be slightly higher than the rear) .
My husband and I enjoy your videos. You have a knack of creating interesting videos without the drama and ego that some channels seem to have. Thank you.
The main benefit for me is that he doesn't talk like a teenage skateboarder and he doesn't have any tattoos (as far as |I know :) ) either.
Ffs,I’m getting jealous here watching you create a heavy machinery empire,ya lucky bugger,good score.
At the rate you're going, soon your biggest problem will be choosing which machine to use for your projects! ;) Anyway, seeing the deep "dish" of the rear wheels, along with the extra holes inside of them, makes me think that you were meant to add wheel weights on that thing. Speaking of that, I remember seeing a very old tractor with custom "weights" added by a farmer. He took the wheels off, laid them on their sides, and filled the entire "dish" portion with concrete :D The only unfilled area was the spot around the bolt holes and hub. While it certainly added plenty of weight, I don't think that was the best way of doing it ;)
That is clever thinking
That's your drive way !!!! *YOU* won lucky bastard !!!! Good for you fella respect from the UK !!
Its a shared driveway between 5 neighbors, I seem to end up doing most of the maintenance work though lol
Marty spends more time working on his driveway than my city ever has on my street. Always a good video!
We had a Massey Ferguson 35 with a front loader and a 200 liter barrel with concrete and steel on the back so we could use it without to many problems. Thank you for sharing your amazing journey. God bless you and your family.
Yeah - oil drum full of concrete on the 3 point linkage is pretty much traditional.
Paul Womack, yes our first was a 100 liter but was to rusty, so we upgraded it to some more heavy God bless you and your family.
@@fynbo1007 When we did it, once the concrete had set, the barrel was pretty much irrelevant - it was just a mould, although we didn't bother removing it.
We'd embedded an old draw bar (for the swing arms) and a bolt bracket (for the top link) through the barrel before we poured.
Good plan mate
Paul Womack , you are right, but it was my father who decided what to do. And he wanted a barrel without any damage, we told him it doesn’t matter. But then he decided a larger barrel and he is the one who paid the bills, so he is always right 🥴🥴
You’re getting things done and the dogs like “you’re doing great dad”.
What, it's not broken and rusty? I feel cheated! xD
Them tractors are like Timex Watches. I had a Kubota L 2650. It was 30 years old when i traded it in on a new J.D.3025. Long story, short... i would love to have my Kubota back. A way better tractor than what i got.
"After-market oil catchers", seem to work okay.
Fitting a roll bar to the tractor might be a good idea.
yes yes yes... I couldn't agree more. these machine are tippy and caused too many accidents
I hope that it's the next project on the tractor together with larger rear tires and counter weight behind. That way it would become more stable.
Yup, not rocket science this mate, a good stiff roll bar has saved the life of more than one inattentive/careless/unlucky operator. With a roll over protection device installed, sit tight, hang on to the wheel and ride it out if she goes over, chances are good you’ll walk away.
I agree, a rops frame is needed
Mate, I don’t think a section of railroad will do much in the way of counterbalance on the back of the tractor 😁
I wish I could buy my dad one of these save him doing everything by hand and pushing a mower for 4 days to get the grass cut . Great video and find Marty thanks for sharing
I must admit ...You are a champion !!!! A great pleasure to witness your hard work done with so much great are !! thank you for the videos !!!! BRAVO !
Marty it looks to me as though you would do well to rescue some sort of small crushing plant in the near future!
Nice tractor. Inconvenient parking of the trailer for loading....
Bigger rear tyres and water ballasting will make a huge difference to that machine, Marty. The advantage of water in the tyres is it adds the weight at the lowest possible point, so it not only adds weight, but lowers the centre of gravity overall. Good score. 👍
Yes the tyres are full of water but they're so small it doesnt add a lot of weight, I'll keep an eye out for bigger ag tyres
Nice addition to your fleet and a great job! Thanks for sharing and looking forward to your next adventure!
Put double tyres on rear. That will make it wider and more weight on rear.
Strap a barrel of water to the back or a rock
J’s gamechannel I was thinking about fighting two issues with one solution - also side to side rolling issue.
Water in tyres ...
Helium in tyres...oh wait
Water or rim guard (beet Juices) in the tires to help add weight
Very good catch, indeed ! I got myself a little Kubota too a few weeks back. They are not stable at all; the one I bought caused two accidents (the last one costed the owner his life, sadly). Please consider putting a ROPS on it. I plan to do that on mine. Keep safe, and keep up the good videos, I really enjoy them. cheers mate, and greetings from France.
Yes a rops frame is on my to-do list. Cheers
@@MartyT must be used with a lap belt or its a real mess !! been over twice in mini diggers and no problem because of the belt. You are a very lucky guy tho, place, outlook and the toys you get !! enjoy !!
@@rl3898 That makes sense, it would be natural instinct to leap out when feeling it go over, A lap belt would prevent that impulse
We put a roll bar on our Kubota, same model as one in video, I've done a video on it on my channel, plus mine came with 9.5 -24 tractor tires on the back,(8.3-24 ) on it now. If you pick up a 20" rim you can go much wider, I've looked into it a lot, something like 320-65-20 and that would leave it much more stable.
ROPS is on the list for my ih.
I love watching your Video's you don't talk threw the hole video like some do you don't go into great detail you just keep it simple.
I enjoy watching you down under. Keep up the good work.
My dog has looked at me the exact same way. That’s Great.
Ya you can see in the video how it is fairly unstable. The tractor dealers should never let them leave the dealership in such an unsafe configuration.
You guys did a great job on the tractor and very impressive spreading.
You can make your own wheel weights by using an old drum brake hub off a vehicle. Welding a plate that will match your holes for your weight in your tractor wheel or burn your own holes if there isn't any existing holes. Weld the hub and adapter together. Then fill the brake drum with concrete and there you go! Homemade weights. I would put on a ROPS. Then that nice little machine with care will last you a lifetime. Good video and good equipment operating!
Best Wishes M.H.
Where there's a will, there's a way. And Marty will find it. Good on your pal for helping you! 😃
I really enjoy the videos when it's you and your mate the facials crack me up
Wow good little 4 wheel drive loader tractor, She's a Beauty that's for sure just needs a little extra work to make it right you're just the person for the job cheers mate
Enjoyed the video. It looks like that driveway is a full-time job. Lots of maintenance required and machinery to keep it looking good. But you’re the man for the job keep up the good work!
You get all the good deals! Nice. I love those kubotas. They run awesome and are very dependable!
A cargo pallet on the rear forks, add weight with concrete blocks.
If you get a drawbar at TSC, bolt it to the bottom of a 30 gallon barrel, on the front side of it, mount an angle iron with enough strap iron to make the barrel vertical. Put it on the 3 point, fill it up with gravel, makes the rear axle a lot steadier.
Hello from north east Montana.
Wooooooow!!!!! You are Wheeler and Dealer, Aren't you Sir Marty????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!! Great Job!!!!! Now if you just go in to the rent a vehicle for hire Then would killin it!!!!!
Fill the rear tire tubes with antifreeze and water
One day Marty will walk outside and say, "well well, which machine do I want to use today", OH WAIT, He already does that!!! HaHaHa!!!🤣
NICE SCORE MARTY!!!
Can I borrow your golden horseshoe for a piece...😁
Take care and God Bless my friend. 👍👍 Jay.
Hello Marty! Im from Texas & enjoy your content. I have a ford 3000 diesel & 50 acres. Some of your practical tips and advice make things a lot more fun when I. On an off day working on stuff up there. Ive got a 1932 catipillar crawler that has a 4 cylinder hercules. Its about half the size of the little bristol dozer. Also have a ford 1715 new holland with brush hog loader & 4x4 (ag tires all way around). A 1960 model 50 mf gasoline. I really enjoy watching you clean up and and the firewood and all that. My latest toy is a sachs dolmar 133 super.
Nice, sounds like you have some cool toys
Yours top mine & I so enjoy watching your repairs. Its given me many ideas and easier ways of doing things without buying new or over-engineering.
Good to see the dog in charge of the gravel loading, but you might need a couple hundred m2 to fix your drive. Thanks for posting
nice! good buy. Be care back grading with bucket fully extended you could bend those cylinders, and those are fairly thin.
True, good point. Thanks
Greetings from England. Nice road you got. I thought our London Streets were bad for potholes till I saw your vid...at least we can winge at the council, like its a national pastime.
I have a tiny kubota as well. Handy little tractor. You need to put a ballast weight on the 3 point. Also look into a toothbar for the front bucket. It'll make digging into piles like that much easier
Good points, cheers
@@MartyT there is a company here in the US that makes things like that. Heavyhitch.com i have also seen home made ballast weights. Take a 55 gallon drum and put a hitch bar through it and a top link for the 3rd point and fill it with rock or cement
The wheels can be dished out to give the tractor a wider track, better stability. Also you can add water to the tubes to add weight. I enjoy seeing the land compared to No Cal Foothills where I am. Similar climate. I rolled my JD 970 but with the loader on and a ROP no damage or injury. Thanks for sharing.
Recently found your channel, love your videos! Keep it up!
-David
Nice lil machine with proper rear tires and ballast in them it will be unstoppable
Nice score on the tractor, Marty! Well done!
That is a sweet little machine for a small property! Gotta find me one of them!
What a nice old tractor, nice work as usual👍
Good score Marty! Now to widen the rear axle and wider tyres water filled.. also a roll bar. Next on the list will be a roller!
"Aftermarket oil catcher"
😂
I like those aftermarket oil catchers.
Besides adding a ROPS , short of buying wider tires to increase stability ; you might want to purchase an adapter for filling your rear tires with water , the added weight of the water will greatly increase the stability ( and it's cheap , both the adapter & the water ) .
When I worked in a forklift shop, when we had pitted or damaged hydraulic rams, we would grind the damage clean and repair them with JB Weld. Takes a little time to sand it to match the radius but it holds up really well.
I have heard there is special epoxy for that but I haven't heard of using jb weld, I'll have to try it
I thought sure you would pull out the grader. Good video. Keep em coming.
Awesome little tractor Kubotas are tough as a bag of hammers it should serve you well Im quite jealous greetings from Denmark Maine USA
I was actually disappointed :-( This seemed sooo easy compared to your usual. You'll have to make the next one a real stinker LOL. Great Vid as usual.....
Yep, get rid of those turf tires if you're not going to mow grass with it. They're useless in snow, mud and rocks. Next, do you "ballast" tires where you are? In North America we used to use calcium, but as we grow tired of rusted out rims, many have switched to other liquids. Windshield washer fluid, beet juice and the like. If you don't need the forks on t he back, get rid of them, added length without need mean having to watch two places when backing up. Both the forks and the bucket. I mounted a 45 gallon barrel on a frame for the 3 point hitch. added rocks till it worked well. nice purchase.
Good ideas, cheers
I have almost the exact model to that one, mine is 2 years newer kubota l2550, Got it a loader and forks for $3600 Cad ($6000 to $12000 typically where I am) Thought it had a Knock in the bottom, turned out to be an injector. Picked up a backhoe for it last fall for $3000. Been a fantastic little machine, had -28 a couple month ago and 4 foot of snow, she fired right up but snow was a bit much for her. They can't push or lift squat though without a counter weight, Get yourself a 45 gallon drum and stuck it on the 3pt full of water/sand or you will have your back in the air all day long.
Only thing I hear bad about your's and mine is the clutch it a little weak, they apparently will slip and burn out easy if you work then too hard. Can't hurt to check you free play in the linkage.
Nice, thanks for the info
I'd be changing those back tyres for your type of country, maybe a lug tyre
and if you can put some water in them, it does make them more stable and acts as a counter weight for bucket work.
iks explorations follower calcium is the proper liquid.
Long driveway! Cute little tractor! Seems to run well. Just some care needed to keep from flipping it over.
Owning one of these, I fully understand why the prior owner was scared of it. Even on perfectly flat ground they are tippy when lifting an uneven load.....add a 15 degree slope and they are worthless. They are way too light with way too narrow of a track for using them the way you use a normal tractor. Yes you can mitigate some of that by adding weight at the rear and such, but it is just plain easier/safer to get an old tractor with normal track and weight where you don't have to worry about every little load.
This video must be before you got the dozer and excavator!
If you'll make you a rear gate for your trailer that has pins to swing on, and then a set of adjustable chains to attach at different places. You can vary the opening at the bottom, and allow better control of material coming out of bed of trailer.
That'll save you so much time moving the material you dropped in excess, and also put your material where you need it. Thus saving trips back n forth to your material pile, as well as fuel for both the tractor, and haul vehicle.
Yes we actually talked about adding chains as you say it would control the flow of gravel, but this fill we used had big chunks of road in it so may have blocked the gap
Neat, its crying out for new rear treads! Still a nice score!
Good video, bigger wheels needed on the back and a 3 point linkage block weight required 👍
Marty, you can flip your front wheels to increase width between the wheels. They should match the rear width once you do that. If you want to go further, spacers can be purchased to bolt onto the hubs (or made if you know someone with a mill). I've encountered this in the past with a Kubota. We had to widen the stance to straddle 6' produce beds.
Good idea!
Great score there, widening the front axle width with spacers, or by engineering on the axle itself would help with stability.
Perhaps, given it's history of rolling over, a ROPS wouldn't go amiss.
That's a bleedin' death trap. There must be a spacer that can be added to widen out that rear end. Even with fluid in the rear tires and proper-size rear tires at that, I wouldn't even climb on that thing until its stance is about a foot wider at least. Be careful, Marty.
Hadn't seen this one until now , handy little machine there Marty . I'm a great believer in mechanical assistance . Whenever wherever necessary . Never make any work harder than it needs to be . If machines are there , use them . Faster easier . Makes sense . Could do with a roll hoop on it though better safety option . If you haven't got one . Make one . Keep up the excellent content , no one got an old roller laying around there Marty . Or Wally Stevens hand bitumen pump . .
Change out the rear tires to a wider heavy equipment tire , get a box blade for the rear . The extra weight on the rear will help with stability .
Looks like you need to fill the tyres with water...great on those smaller machines to give them more stability and traction. And ballast weights. Otherwise once the rear wheels lift the front axle pivot allows the machine to tip over.
Nice score. Also a 4 in 1 bucket is shallower and better for that work.
That bucket is only designed for wood chips and sandy loam.
While at the dirt pile, why not turn the tractor around and back the forks into the hardend dirt and lift up to fracture the pile. Then go at it with the bucket.
Shorts and welly's , your the man. LOL.. love it
Those are great tractors.
Great score. Nice sounding little kubota! Need some beefier rubber for the back for sure.
I think I see where this is going someday. Marty’s Tractor 🚜 Emporium. 🤪
Try backing into your pile with the forks to break the material up and easier to get bucket into it
In the US Merchant Marine we call those drip cans King's Point Gaskets.
with that model i believe you can ad a second set of rear tires for dualy configuration or wheel weights or both... those would help with ballast for scraping and lifting with a rear fork and even would help with stability... calcium fill is another cheep option to help.
Duals would be ideal, I'll have to do some research
That's a very nice tractor Marty. There's one for sale where I'm at. Kubota 3 gear 1 reverse with a rotavator,woodchipper and petrol powerwasher all for €3,650. I'm in the process of getting a cherry picker. Btw,if anyone wants me to upload a video of when I get my cherry picker ask me in the comments below. Will take a week or so.😁👌✌️
Put a mixture of antifreeze and water in those back tires and it will help tremendously. Here in the states we add the antifreeze to keep the water from freezing solid .good vid.
I have almost the exact same tractor. What I did was fill a plastic 55 gallon drum about half way full of concrete for a counter weight. Worked great. I drilled three holes in the barrel in a largish triangle on one side. That way you can insert so t shaped pieces through the holes before you pour the concrete. Let it set up around them. Then connect your three point to those arms and you have a nice. Really cheap counterweight. It changed the tractor 💯%.
Nice tractor!, many tractors have adjustable width tires, my kubota has four different widths. Also wheel weights or liquid in the tire will help greatly.
Would fit the linkage grader to the rear instead of the fork for bit more weight plus you can use it to leave out the fill then .
Well done m8 , saved your self hundreds doing it yourself .
brillaint move
nice toy !!!!
john uk london
If you have an old hardwood pallet & 4 empty 44gal drums you could strap the drums down onto the pallet, fill them up with water as a counter weight in the back so your tractor will be more stable.
I had a similar model 4x4, I used a 4ft bush hog for a counter weight on the 3pt hitch (600 lbs) & added a bolt-on tooth bar on the loader for diggin. And for maintaining roads & cutt'n fields, I had a few close roll over events but all you gotta do is put the loader down with a lil' pressure till you get righted again. Also some models have expandable axles in the rear for greater stability on slopes. Hope that helps
Not a bad unit . Replacing the rear wheel and filling with beet juice. Instead of calcium is a rim saver. Maybe add a ROP would be a good idea. I am a fan of Kubota 👍 basic reliable tractors. I was responsible for quite a few of them. Have a great one 👍🇨🇦 Craig
Good points, did you work at the factory?
@@MartyT No I was the head mechanic at a large 480 acre Golf facility with two full-size courses in one small. We have/had M8200 m5030 L4300 L3450 + 3 x L4600HST
what!!!!!!!!!! another tractor score??? good for you and a service record to boot. Thumbs Up
"Ill put some weight on the back" *Proceeds to put a single pice of track on it*
You only need to acquire a roller now to give your driveway a bit of a smoothing. 😉 Great vid as always.
Nice little kit you found there I would definitely look for some rollover protection for it and some weider back wheels with weights great video enjoy your videos
Yes I'll have to build a roll over frame and I'll look into duals on the rear
I like the Orange. Nice machine. :-)
L1 Series 1983-1985
tough, well maintained.
We have extreme slopes to mow along I-5, and the city worker had a remote controlled autonomous mower that he was controlling via pendant around his neck. It was beyond 45 degrees when i saw it...
Adding a rops would be a great idea where your on slopes a lot. Role over protection system. Rops. It usually includes a good seat and harness. Because if you fall out it can still fall on top of you.
@03:16 :) :) :) :) Good dog.
Nice job..we do same with a big JCB ..x..bigger tyres and little weight at back you've a little diamond there...
I actually attached the backblade to the rear, its really stable now
I love the scenery where you live!!! Nothing but fat bald prairie here...
Lots of tractors around though... as mentioned before, double or widen the rear wheels. Also you can weight the front and rear rims to add mass and lower the centre of gravity.
Awesome find !
I had a sunshine 1450dt a little beauty - upgraded to a new b1241 now with a bit more power - yep a rops is a must turned both of mine over !!
It looks like you could buy it at a home depo but what an super little tractor 🚜 imagine home long it would take to move one bucket load by hand
Rear wheel weights would stop the front end being over balanced.