Dave, I would definitely consider a 18’ - 20’ boat with a 115hp motor. Then you will have what you’re looking for. The gains you get by small horse power changes, prop changes, ….. are expensive and disappointing at best. A bigger, wider boat with appropriate hp will give you the change you’re looking for. I’ve done my share of tinkering with boats - trying to make them something they’re not. In the end you’ll waste a lot of money and still not be happy and buy a different boat anyway. Love the videos
I've been preaching this kind of stuff for many years. I learn way back as a teenager if you want something fast you have to buy something that's fast. Buying something slow and trying to make it fast is way more work than just getting something already ready already.
I have a 2006 Mercury 40hp 4 stroke EFI Bigfoot motor and it's a 1.0 liter 4 cylinder motor, the 50hp and 60hp Bigfoot motor's have the same displacement, I took the restriction ring out and found a used 60hp ECU that was luckily the same year model for only $300, put it all together and it took my tracker pro team 170TX from 21mph to 38mph with the boat loaded the same before the change, I did go from a 12 pitch prop to a 14 pitch after testing and seeing the rpm's with the different props. I can't believe I had been running this slow all these year's until I did that upgrade 2 year's ago. I wished these Yamaha's was as easy to convert and work good, I'm very happy with the same kind of conversation you tried.
I did a conversion from 30hp to 40hp on a 4 stroke Mercury, mine was a carbed motor not efi , the only diffrence was a restrictor plate behind the carbs, so I bought one from a 40hp, the holes on the 40hp restrictor plate were the same size as the diameter of the carbs ( 3 carbs on the motor ). At first I noticed a little improvement but not a big diffrence, and still got 5800rpm with the same 12 pitch prop, I looked closely at the carbs and noticed that at full throttle the butterfly plates on the carbs only opened 3/4 of the way, there was a spacer on the adjustment screw preventing the carbs to fully open, once the spacer removed and screw sdjusted to get full throttle the improvement was amazing, it would over rev with the 12 pitch prop I got a 14 pitch, all this to say make sure you are getting 100% full throttle at the motor, check that your throttle body is oppening alle the way.
I bought a 16 1/2 foot deep V Polar Kraft and love it, it has the F50 on it also. I had looked at the 60 conversion and really kicked the idea around, but for the amount of money for the ECU I couldn`t justify only getting 10 hp more. Mine still has the factory prop and have no idea what pitch it is, I have a hydrofoil on mine and it practically jumps on plane, and top speed is 30 to 32 mph depending on how rough the water is. You might look into a hydrofoil so you can run the faster prop and not sacrifice over working the motor and have a better jump on plane. My favorite boat of all time was my 98 Triton TR20 with a 200hp Johnson, 75-77 mph was fun but I love my Polar Kraft and don`t really miss the extra 40 mph since I can fish out of this boat more comfortably . I did take the restrictor plate out of the F50 but haven`t had a chance to get it on the water yet, I may just put it back in after hearing your experience.
We had a 16 by 52 all welded duck boat with heavy gear and a 40hp Yamaha and put a hydrofoil on it and I can't tell you the difference it made in getting on plane and I mean a big difference ,just my two cents
Even though I don't have a boat or this kind of outboard motor it was very interesting to watch this video, thanks for taking the time to make this video and giving us this info. I'm sure someone will find it very helpful!
I will start by saying that I am not 100% sure why you would loose speed by adding 10hp if everything was kosher. I would have to research the 50 and 60 torque curves and powerbands. I occasionally mess with gas engines, but primarily build and tune caterpillar, cummins, Detroit, duramax and powerstroke engines for a living. Let's start by simplifying things a little bit. If you have 2 identical engines, with direct drive 1:1 ratio, they both redline to 7000 RPM, they will perform identical. Change the gear ratio of either, and you will see a noticeable difference. Change the HP/TORQUE of either, and you WILL see a noticeable difference even with them being identical and 1:1. However, it will not be AS noticeable as a prop change or gear swap! It will just cause it to be more efficient allowing you to in theory, run a more aggressive prop. However, in your case, the lower unit gear ratio is NOT the problem! You're supposedly ADDING 10hp. Dont quote me on this, but the 60hp ecm should NOT only change the amount of fuel delivered. It will also adjust timing and afr. The combination of AIR/FUEL AND TIMING are where the additional 10HP will come from, in turn causing the engine to work at a lower duty cycle essentially. One thing I am also NOT sure about is weather or not the 60hp requires an air silencer/restrictor as well. It may be the same as the 50, it may be larger than the 50. The 60 may run hotter spark plugs as well. I would continue to reach out to the yamaha groups, maybe even someone who specializes in this swap will see this video and be able to help you further. Best of luck Dave! One last thought that "might" have affected your initial test is that the water may have been absorbed into anything not solid. Possibly adding an unknown amount of weight.
Taking a dual action polisher & some cutter polish followed by a finer polish. Then apply 3-4 coats of sealant to keep that hull slick to the touch. Lot of time, but the power tool helps a lot.
Ive used a boat very similar. I converted a 26 foot pontoon. I tried a flat bottom john boat. Ended up in a 20ft center console deep. The sides are high and I can reach right over without kneeling. Grandkids wont fall out lol And I can access every inch of the boat for fishing other than the 2ftx2ft area the cockpit takes up. Best boat Ive ever owned. With a 90hp I can get it up to 38 to 40mph or slow troll etc. Has two live wells and a 20 gallon fuel tank.
Love my Lowe 1710 Fishing Machine. 115mercLots of room n rides nice in rough water. Have never figured why people need a flat bottom boat on the rivers
thats a big water boat for sure!!!! I gotta have a flat bottom for the summertime, headin upriver i get her up on plane and trim it up only need about 8". You could use your boat on the neuse in winter and spring no problem tho
Allowed rpms go up on higher hp motor. Look at specs on them. Mercury 75, 90 and 115 are all same motor with different programming, restrictor plates and higher rpm on each. "Red line" goes up like 500 rpm from 75 to 90 and again from 90 to 115
A used well kept 17 foot Boston Whaler with a 90 hp 4 stroke should do you well. Remove the steering and run tiller to optimize space and fishing room. The perfect setup in my eyes. Way more stable and unsinkable. Perfect for insurance companies.
Hydrofoils work great to get you up on step. They are not a hoax. You won't really get any more speed though, 1-3 mph if any at all. I prop my jon boats to hit the rev limiter with just me and a very light load in the boat. This has always worked out perfect for me. I have never hit the limiter with a fishing or hunting load
You need to put a "Dolphin Fin / Hydrofoil" on the 50 hp Yamaha. It will help your take off (get you on plane faster), top end speed, and fuel economy.
You can't help but wonder if there is supposed to be a different restrictor plate, but still a restrictor plate that goes with the 60 horse ECU. Instead of just taking the old restrictor plate out, there might be a restrictor plate that is paired with and tuned to the 60 horse setup. It might be that even with the 60 horse ECU, that with no restrictor plate, it's running so lean that the new ECU cannot keep up with way too much air being introduced that it cannot run in tune for the new setup. I wish you'd look into that.
it might help if you can find a good prop man down there, one that and that can build a special prop for your boat, or rework yours,,I have had several high performance boats with working with props, motor height, the pitch of your prop and how much cup it has in your blades,,hi rpm=more cup-lowers rmp, adds more left in your boat ,, it is just more money , to go fast
Yamaha is one of the very best marine engines. Forget conversions for more horsepower. Reliability starts to come into question especially with older engines. Get a bigger motor.
Most all fuel injection gas engine worther is in a car or truck or boat with ecm/pcm has to be re programed when u make a change like u dud to get more horse power and speed ....good luck hope u catch some big stripers soon!!
Interesting experiment but expensive. I have a 17.5' alumacraft with a 50hp Johnson. It's top speed is 28 mph with no water in the live well and bait tank and a full fuel load. With the live well full of water the speed drops to 25 mph.
Pure common sense Dave . That 50 in it's original trim would be a better motor that the 60 anyway . Because pumping it up from the factory in that sense would put more strain on the mechanical components if they weren't beefed up along with the ECU . Kind of like trying to put nitrous on a stock motor . It'll definitely let the smoke out . Yep, I'd leave well enough alone . :)
Would put the restrictive plate back in with the 60 ECU and the 12 pitch. For every pitch you go up it’s 150-200 RPM loss. But I believe you would only gain 2-3 mph maybe. I have a 20 EFI Yamaha and the only difference between that and the 25 is the ECU which changes the timing and fuel.
The clock will answer a lot of questions. Time the difference in a ten mile run. I tried 30 horse compared to 15 horse on my flatbottom. In seven mile run it only made 4 minutes difference. . The 15 was so much handier... lighter and will plane 2 guys and loaded for cat fishing. In a log infested river. Hauling bait ,gear, an 10 gallon extra gas 15 total. The 15 planes the big john easy. I have had about 6 different boats in 35 years .. by far the best for a load is a flat bottom. Big john wide bottom. 4 minutes is very little different. Use whatever works best. And horsepower . Is not as important as the clock. Convenience and dependability. I think at times on a lake i woul like some speed. But 22 mph is great if you hit a log. I leave motor unlatched to flip up. Been hanging on rivers for 30 some years. Johnson is best river motor going.. run one 20 years .. 2 cycle mixed 3 ounce to gallon. 40 to one. In ten miles you would get there 4 or 5 minutes quicker than me. With flatbottom. Guys fish oil rigs in the gulf with 16 foot flatbottom and 2 15 horse on the back. Loaded. Works great. Wide is better.
I have the same f50 on my pontoon, it’s definitely not a speedy motor. My bass boat has a 1986 Yamaha 115 two stroke and is a power house. Funny thing is, the f50 burns more gas than the 115. Bass boat weighs 1,600 lbs. I’m definitely a two stroke fan. Best of luck to you.
Yeah weather gets big out there,and rivers funnel that wind ,need 18-20 ft n bigger motor,I hear you and other people suggest Boston whaler,well,do yourself a favor and seriously look into a Lund,$ for $,may be one of the best out there
Lund WS16, tiller 25hp Mercury 2 stroke. Electric start. 2 batteries. Pedestal seats added, MinnKota 30, Hummingbird dual transducers, Downrigger, planer boards, life jackets, fire extinguisher, plenty of line, 2 anchors, all my fishing gear… top end 31 mph. Get rid of the Yamaha!
Get rid of that stinking water polluting 2 Stroke Not trying to be a Nancy buy I was fishing today and a 2stroke trolled by smoking n laying an oil film down
CD: I'm assuming you checked the condition of your plugs. Long time ago I bumped a 40 to 50 Yamaha two stroke carbed engine for use on a 13' Boston Whaler then it was essentially two alterations: carb jets as speced in Yamaha manual for the 50 and exhaust parts/manifold as speced in Yamaha manual...also new plugs but critical was the prop and taching first with light load then with working load ...with your working load and the 60 mods in place when you proped it did you record at least 5500(or more) at WOT...BTW checked part numbers 2017 50 and 60 exhaust manifold same part number as well as same for muffller...also recall auto days cannot take small block with 50 thosand miles on the heads and expect it to perform like new even when adding HP parts...how many hours on your engine
Pretty big house looks nice maby I could meet you someday. Or you take me fishing I haven't gone since my dad got hurt out on the lake shore about 4 or 5 years ago that almost ended his life if possible could you take me fishing?
i've learned from experience what dave had to unfortunately learn from experience,,,,don't mess with your outboards, fins someone who knows what theyre doing. I got lucky and found an employee at a boat dealership who's a marine mechanic and moonlights out of his garage. they're so many little nuances with outboards that you need that professional expertise
I have a 2017 yamaha F60 on a 18' 60" wide. Open john boat. The boat tops out at 32mph with or without gear. I usually run about 25-28mph to keep from maxing out rpms. I get great gas mileage. But the only gas i can run is non-ethanol. Everything else causes my engine to vapor lock. Do you have the same issue?
Adding a stainless prop will not add any gain. If anything it will slow it down. Alot more weight in SS than aluminum prop. SS is only best when used in salt water. You don't want 1 on this motor for the type of fishing he does. Aluminum prop will snap as opposed to SS which will grenade the lower in the event
Try Progressive. I have a 150hp on a boat rated for a 90hp. Filled out questionnaires online with Progressive and maybe one or two more. It asked for both motor hp and boat hp rating and was apparently OK. I didn't buy it so I can't tell you what would happen if I had. The sent me offers for a couple of months.
The only way to get more horsepower out of the same cubic inches is by spinning the motor faster. I don't see how the conversion can make any difference at lower or the same RPM. Guys who say they got an extra 10 hp have to be over revving it.
He didn't change displacement, compression ratio, camshaft, exhaust, etc. I'm pretty sure the various components on that engine were designed by Yamaha to work together as a 50HP motor. Changing the ignition module alone won't magically turn it into a 60HP motor..@@eagle777dh
Can you go to a tri blade? A 4 blade offers more tq but less speed. Also 50 to 60hp same gear same rpm equals same speed and maybe a little more tq getting on plain.
Tritoon, sits higher on the water with left draft. Twice as stable. Takes a bunch more horse power. Wicked ride @70mph on a toon..... Make your friends jealous. lol
Why don't you put a se sport hydroplane above your prop... Your boat will plane out very quickly.... Your boat will run faster... Great on gas mileage.... Just saying...
Dave, I would definitely consider a 18’ - 20’ boat with a 115hp motor. Then you will have what you’re looking for. The gains you get by small horse power changes, prop changes, ….. are expensive and disappointing at best. A bigger, wider boat with appropriate hp will give you the change you’re looking for. I’ve done my share of tinkering with boats - trying to make them something they’re not. In the end you’ll waste a lot of money and still not be happy and buy a different boat anyway. Love the videos
I've been preaching this kind of stuff for many years. I learn way back as a teenager if you want something fast you have to buy something that's fast. Buying something slow and trying to make it fast is way more work than just getting something already ready already.
Great video! If you are going to continue fishing big water a bigger boat may be the better option
Boston Whaler
Midnight Express. LOl!!
I have a 2006 Mercury 40hp 4 stroke EFI Bigfoot motor and it's a 1.0 liter 4 cylinder motor, the 50hp and 60hp Bigfoot motor's have the same displacement, I took the restriction ring out and found a used 60hp ECU that was luckily the same year model for only $300, put it all together and it took my tracker pro team 170TX from 21mph to 38mph with the boat loaded the same before the change, I did go from a 12 pitch prop to a 14 pitch after testing and seeing the rpm's with the different props. I can't believe I had been running this slow all these year's until I did that upgrade 2 year's ago. I wished these Yamaha's was as easy to convert and work good, I'm very happy with the same kind of conversation you tried.
I want to say the 50 is all ready tuned up from the 40 the 60 is is low tune of the 70. but as others have said hydrofoil be good thing to put on it.
Thank you Dave, another great video
I did a conversion from 30hp to 40hp on a 4 stroke Mercury, mine was a carbed motor not efi , the only diffrence was a restrictor plate behind the carbs, so I bought one from a 40hp, the holes on the 40hp restrictor plate were the same size as the diameter of the carbs ( 3 carbs on the motor ).
At first I noticed a little improvement but not a big diffrence, and still got 5800rpm with the same 12 pitch prop, I looked closely at the carbs and noticed that at full throttle the butterfly plates on the carbs only opened 3/4 of the way, there was a spacer on the adjustment screw preventing the carbs to fully open, once the spacer removed and screw sdjusted to get full throttle the improvement was amazing, it would over rev with the 12 pitch prop I got a 14 pitch, all this to say make sure you are getting 100% full throttle at the motor, check that your throttle body is oppening alle the way.
I bought a 16 1/2 foot deep V Polar Kraft and love it, it has the F50 on it also. I had looked at the 60 conversion and really kicked the idea around, but for the amount of money for the ECU I couldn`t justify only getting 10 hp more. Mine still has the factory prop and have no idea what pitch it is, I have a hydrofoil on mine and it practically jumps on plane, and top speed is 30 to 32 mph depending on how rough the water is. You might look into a hydrofoil so you can run the faster prop and not sacrifice over working the motor and have a better jump on plane. My favorite boat of all time was my 98 Triton TR20 with a 200hp Johnson, 75-77 mph was fun but I love my Polar Kraft and don`t really miss the extra 40 mph since I can fish out of this boat more comfortably . I did take the restrictor plate out of the F50 but haven`t had a chance to get it on the water yet, I may just put it back in after hearing your experience.
I never thought about the insurability with a larger hp engine....good point!
Thanks Dave!
We had a 16 by 52 all welded duck boat with heavy gear and a 40hp Yamaha and put a hydrofoil on it and I can't tell you the difference it made in getting on plane and I mean a big difference ,just my two cents
Yes, hydrofoils are not a scam. I have had them on almost all my boats.
Good video thanks for sharing the info .I will be sure to keep my 50 the way it is.👍
Go ahead and get you that Boston Whaler
We'll pay for it Dave
Even though I don't have a boat or this kind of outboard motor it was very interesting to watch this video, thanks for taking the time to make this video and giving us this info. I'm sure someone will find it very helpful!
Thank you Kathy stay for the education course now I know what to do
Thanks for the advice on boat motor complication on upping horsepower .
Great PSA Dave. You probably saved alot of people alot of $.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keep your videos coming please.
Beautiful home, Dave.
You need a Boston Whaler.
I need one 😔
I will start by saying that I am not 100% sure why you would loose speed by adding 10hp if everything was kosher.
I would have to research the 50 and 60 torque curves and powerbands.
I occasionally mess with gas engines, but primarily build and tune caterpillar, cummins, Detroit, duramax and powerstroke engines for a living.
Let's start by simplifying things a little bit. If you have 2 identical engines, with direct drive 1:1 ratio, they both redline to 7000 RPM, they will perform identical. Change the gear ratio of either, and you will see a noticeable difference. Change the HP/TORQUE of either, and you WILL see a noticeable difference even with them being identical and 1:1. However, it will not be AS noticeable as a prop change or gear swap! It will just cause it to be more efficient allowing you to in theory, run a more aggressive prop.
However, in your case, the lower unit gear ratio is NOT the problem! You're supposedly ADDING 10hp. Dont quote me on this, but the 60hp ecm should NOT only change the amount of fuel delivered.
It will also adjust timing and afr. The combination of AIR/FUEL AND TIMING are where the additional 10HP will come from, in turn causing the engine to work at a lower duty cycle essentially.
One thing I am also NOT sure about is weather or not the 60hp requires an air silencer/restrictor as well. It may be the same as the 50, it may be larger than the 50. The 60 may run hotter spark plugs as well.
I would continue to reach out to the yamaha groups, maybe even someone who specializes in this swap will see this video and be able to help you further. Best of luck Dave!
One last thought that "might" have affected your initial test is that the water may have been absorbed into anything not solid. Possibly adding an unknown amount of weight.
Is there anyway to tune boat engines, like you can car and truck engines?
Taking a dual action polisher & some cutter polish followed by a finer polish. Then apply 3-4 coats of sealant to keep that hull slick to the touch. Lot of time, but the power tool helps a lot.
Ive used a boat very similar. I converted a 26 foot pontoon. I tried a flat bottom john boat. Ended up in a 20ft center console deep. The sides are high and I can reach right over without kneeling. Grandkids wont fall out lol And I can access every inch of the boat for fishing other than the 2ftx2ft area the cockpit takes up. Best boat Ive ever owned. With a 90hp I can get it up to 38 to 40mph or slow troll etc. Has two live wells and a 20 gallon fuel tank.
Love my Lowe 1710 Fishing Machine. 115mercLots of room n rides nice in rough water. Have never figured why people need a flat bottom boat on the rivers
thats a big water boat for sure!!!! I gotta have a flat bottom for the summertime, headin upriver i get her up on plane and trim it up only need about 8". You could use your boat on the neuse in winter and spring no problem tho
Allowed rpms go up on higher hp motor. Look at specs on them. Mercury 75, 90 and 115 are all same motor with different programming, restrictor plates and higher rpm on each. "Red line" goes up like 500 rpm from 75 to 90 and again from 90 to 115
A used well kept 17 foot Boston Whaler with a 90 hp 4 stroke should do you well. Remove the steering and run tiller to optimize space and fishing room. The perfect setup in my eyes. Way more stable and unsinkable. Perfect for insurance companies.
We appreciate you sharing this with us Mr Catfish Dave.
Thanks for the heads up Dave !
You always give hood info. Thanks a bunch.
Ol Dave out here myth-busting for us, thank you sir 💪
Hydrofoils work great to get you up on step. They are not a hoax. You won't really get any more speed though, 1-3 mph if any at all. I prop my jon boats to hit the rev limiter with just me and a very light load in the boat. This has always worked out perfect for me. I have never hit the limiter with a fishing or hunting load
you need a Dolphin Fin. helps out a lot for plane faster. I drop 3 mph if off. you may need to change pitch and not diameter
CFD ! 👍
You need to put a "Dolphin Fin / Hydrofoil" on the 50 hp Yamaha. It will help your take off (get you on plane faster), top end speed, and fuel economy.
You can't help but wonder if there is supposed to be a different restrictor plate, but still a restrictor plate that goes with the 60 horse ECU. Instead of just taking the old restrictor plate out, there might be a restrictor plate that is paired with and tuned to the 60 horse setup. It might be that even with the 60 horse ECU, that with no restrictor plate, it's running so lean that the new ECU cannot keep up with way too much air being introduced that it cannot run in tune for the new setup. I wish you'd look into that.
YES, and pass everything on the water except a FUEL ⛽️ DOCK
hope you still got your 10mm socket
10 mm are always running away
it might help if you can find a good prop man down there, one that and that can build a special prop for your boat, or rework yours,,I have had several high performance boats with working with props, motor height, the pitch of your prop and how much cup it has in your blades,,hi rpm=more cup-lowers rmp, adds more left in your boat ,, it is just more money , to go fast
Don's Prop Shop in Soddy Daisy is a good one Dave
Yamaha is one of the very best marine engines. Forget conversions for more horsepower. Reliability starts to come into question especially with older engines. Get a bigger motor.
Most all fuel injection gas engine worther is in a car or truck or boat with ecm/pcm has to be re programed when u make a change like u dud to get more horse power and speed ....good luck hope u catch some big stripers soon!!
F70 is the best tiller out there. Light also
The boat he has will take on bigger water then most boats we have here in the south
THANKS!
Interesting experiment but expensive. I have a 17.5' alumacraft with a 50hp Johnson. It's top speed is 28 mph with no water in the live well and bait tank and a full fuel load. With the live well full of water the speed drops to 25 mph.
Pure common sense Dave . That 50 in it's original trim would be a better motor that the 60 anyway . Because pumping it up from the factory in that sense would put more strain on the mechanical components if they weren't beefed up along with the ECU . Kind of like trying to put nitrous on a stock motor . It'll definitely let the smoke out . Yep, I'd leave well enough alone . :)
Legend has it that a single 600 can pack quite the punch
Would put the restrictive plate back in with the 60 ECU and the 12 pitch. For every pitch you go up it’s 150-200 RPM loss. But I believe you would only gain 2-3 mph maybe. I have a 20 EFI Yamaha and the only difference between that and the 25 is the ECU which changes the timing and fuel.
Hello David ,. In Indiana catalpa worms were very good for cats. I wondered if you ever used them . Really enjoy your vids
The clock will answer a lot of questions. Time the difference in a ten mile run. I tried 30 horse compared to 15 horse on my flatbottom. In seven mile run it only made 4 minutes difference. . The 15 was so much handier... lighter and will plane 2 guys and loaded for cat fishing. In a log infested river. Hauling bait ,gear, an 10 gallon extra gas 15 total. The 15 planes the big john easy. I have had about 6 different boats in 35 years .. by far the best for a load is a flat bottom. Big john wide bottom. 4 minutes is very little different. Use whatever works best. And horsepower . Is not as important as the clock. Convenience and dependability. I think at times on a lake i woul like some speed. But 22 mph is great if you hit a log. I leave motor unlatched to flip up. Been hanging on rivers for 30 some years. Johnson is best river motor going.. run one 20 years .. 2 cycle mixed 3 ounce to gallon. 40 to one. In ten miles you would get there 4 or 5 minutes quicker than me. With flatbottom. Guys fish oil rigs in the gulf with 16 foot flatbottom and 2 15 horse on the back. Loaded. Works great. Wide is better.
Oh heck just go get you a Sea Ark Lol !❤
Build the Wall..
between David and the KFC
Sea ark 20foot with a140 Suzuki all the boat you’ll ever need it will be a lot safer on the. Giver body’s of water
All I did was remove the restrictor plate. Stock ecu and prop. I went from 33 to 37/38mph on gps.
Dave has busted more myths than anyone else, Dagblasted 60hp conversion myth. Jeff in LA USA
I have the same f50 on my pontoon, it’s definitely not a speedy motor. My bass boat has a 1986 Yamaha 115 two stroke and is a power house. Funny thing is, the f50 burns more gas than the 115. Bass boat weighs 1,600 lbs. I’m definitely a two stroke fan. Best of luck to you.
Ur mistake was not converting it to a 300HP. That would have spun that prop real fast😂
You can definitely insure the boat. You may just have to change carrier's. I mean they insure race cars.
The important thing is that you can’t go any further up river then a bull shark… …. Unless it’s imperative that you get there first
Have you seen all the logs and debris that's in his his rivers and lakes. I wouldn't want to go too fast and hit that stuff.
Yeah weather gets big out there,and rivers funnel that wind ,need 18-20 ft n bigger motor,I hear you and other people suggest Boston whaler,well,do yourself a favor and seriously look into a Lund,$ for $,may be one of the best out there
i learned my lesson with a gocart . ill never mess with a factory engine again
We use to wax the bottom,, you would be surprised how slippery it makes it,,an picks up mph, like dirt tracking you slide in the turns😂😂😂😂
Get you a 22' Sea Ark with trip 60's
Just like restrictor plates on NASCAR!
Wonder if the ECU controls the timing as well. If not it may require a timing advance.
Lund WS16, tiller 25hp Mercury 2 stroke. Electric start. 2 batteries. Pedestal seats added, MinnKota 30, Hummingbird dual transducers, Downrigger, planer boards, life jackets, fire extinguisher, plenty of line, 2 anchors, all my fishing gear… top end 31 mph. Get rid of the Yamaha!
Get rid of that stinking water polluting 2 Stroke
Not trying to be a Nancy buy I was fishing today and a 2stroke trolled by smoking n laying an oil film down
@@davefisher5196 i'm accepting donations in the 60hp 4storke category, get up with me lol
@@davefisher5196 No
You need a 60 restrictor plate.
It would be nice if you could get a boat with a 115 or a 150 on it.
Mr Dave where did u purchase the T Bar rod holder from😊
CD: I'm assuming you checked the condition of your plugs. Long time ago I bumped a 40 to 50 Yamaha two stroke carbed engine for use on a 13' Boston Whaler then it was essentially two alterations: carb jets as speced in Yamaha manual for the 50 and exhaust parts/manifold as speced in Yamaha manual...also new plugs but critical was the prop and taching first with light load then with working load ...with your working load and the 60 mods in place when you proped it did you record at least 5500(or more) at WOT...BTW checked part numbers 2017 50 and 60 exhaust manifold same part number as well as same for muffller...also recall auto days cannot take small block with 50 thosand miles on the heads and expect it to perform like new even when adding HP parts...how many hours on your engine
50 to 60 should help you get up and moving and on plane with more weight in the boat with the extra torque but not necessarily more top end
Pretty big house looks nice maby I could meet you someday. Or you take me fishing I haven't gone since my dad got hurt out on the lake shore about 4 or 5 years ago that almost ended his life if possible could you take me fishing?
Yeah right, there is a reason you never see anyone but him in the videos
If you're a third shift waitresses at the waffle house you might have a chance.
i've learned from experience what dave had to unfortunately learn from experience,,,,don't mess with your outboards, fins someone who knows what theyre doing. I got lucky and found an employee at a boat dealership who's a marine mechanic and moonlights out of his garage.
they're so many little nuances with outboards that you need that professional expertise
That looks exactly like the 10mm I lost a few weeks ago.
Time to install an automatic bilge pump
Just sell that mansion and get a house boat Dave, full time content creator cat fisherman living off the Reservoir 😂
no fish, not a fishing video.
doesn’t mean it’s a bad video… quite educational for newbies.
Its a boat video today 😂
Duh
And man enough to admit it.
I have a 2017 yamaha F60 on a 18' 60" wide. Open john boat. The boat tops out at 32mph with or without gear. I usually run about 25-28mph to keep from maxing out rpms. I get great gas mileage. But the only gas i can run is non-ethanol. Everything else causes my engine to vapor lock. Do you have the same issue?
Fuc ethanol fuel
Dave, add a hydraulic jack plate first and then play around with your prop. Stainless steel prop will help too. Should get you 7-8 more mph.
Adding a stainless prop will not add any gain. If anything it will slow it down. Alot more weight in SS than aluminum prop. SS is only best when used in salt water. You don't want 1 on this motor for the type of fishing he does. Aluminum prop will snap as opposed to SS which will grenade the lower in the event
Just go fishing with Panfish and his new boat.
He should check out Spencer at River Certified. He has a nice setup
Put a 115 tilller
The gearing ín the lower unit is different
I have a 30 Suzuki on my 2072 mv sea ark it's not fast but it don't pass the fish up 😂
What he say?
I asked before and didn’t get a response can you please tell me what kind of hooks you use? Thank you
Big ones. Size 10
@@IEchuckie brand i been having too many getting away!
@@IEchuckie does he answer his subscribers? I looked back and didn’t see much!
Try Progressive. I have a 150hp on a boat rated for a 90hp. Filled out questionnaires online with Progressive and maybe one or two more. It asked for both motor hp and boat hp rating and was apparently OK. I didn't buy it so I can't tell you what would happen if I had. The sent me offers for a couple of months.
Hello people
The only way to get more horsepower out of the same cubic inches is by spinning the motor faster. I don't see how the conversion can make any difference at lower or the same RPM. Guys who say they got an extra 10 hp have to be over revving it.
Torque
I can tell you weren't ever around any kind of performance shops or looked at dyno results.
He didn't change displacement, compression ratio, camshaft, exhaust, etc.
I'm pretty sure the various components on that engine were designed by Yamaha to work together as a 50HP motor. Changing the ignition module alone won't magically turn it into a 60HP motor..@@eagle777dh
Catfish Dave 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Can you go to a tri blade? A 4 blade offers more tq but less speed.
Also 50 to 60hp same gear same rpm equals same speed and maybe a little more tq getting on plain.
Dave you need to get you a pontoon takes less depth to run but ain’t fast
Tritoon, sits higher on the water with left draft. Twice as stable. Takes a bunch more horse power. Wicked ride @70mph on a toon..... Make your friends jealous. lol
Please
Need a bigger boat and more hp! Then you will be happy--break out another thousand (boat)!
Time to go big or stay home and watch cat fishing videos.
Is Dave gonna get a sinkark?
SeaArk?
Sinkark bad ass jhon boat
Why don't you put a se sport hydroplane above your prop... Your boat will plane out very quickly.... Your boat will run faster... Great on gas mileage.... Just saying...
Time sell boat get different one
Surprised your boat is only rated for a 50. I have a 1756 center console semi V and its rated for a 75.
Different boat. Dave has a 16 footer aluminum.
HOW YOU GONNA GET 10 MORE HORSES IN THAT BOAT!!
Dave, i know you could probably care less but the boat needs detailed
Great vid Dave. Sorry for the wasted time and money. Think you need to look into a good outboard mechanic. Too many variables your not mentioning.
You need a proper boat. Period. An 18-20 ft deep v fishing boat with a 150hp+ motor. Buy it once and be done with it.