A lot of good design considerations and why. Always like to hear the thoughts as to why you’ve let something’s grow more and how to maintain the tapering and over all end design coming through to the eventual design. Keep the videos coming.
Excellent video, Josh! It’s always great to understand the thought process behind each cut. Every time I see a video like this, a new light comes on in my brain. Thank you.
You would either have to cut back to that internode then try and keep the growth under control from there or hope for a new bud near that area to grow a new more suited branch from. Otherwise you may have to change the design of the tree to suit the longer first branch, in this case you may need a more elongated design rather then a short stout design.
Great video thank you. Clear information, reasoning and strategy. Just one question, will keeping the top pruned, slow down the healing of the big wounds? Thanks
Hi Andrew, yes it will slow the healing of the wound but I can live with that, what I wouldn't be able to live with is having to create another wound to remove the top of the tree again if it get too thick and out of control. The wound should mostly heal within a Single season though with the putty applied, it's only been 2 months since I worked that wound down and it's all ready rolled over a fair amount.
The wound was worked on first to allow some time with a large amount of foliage above the cut to help it along a bit, it will certainly slow down now but its more important at this stage that i get that apex branch under control otherwise i will end up needing to remove it causing yet another wound. In a perfect world i could do both but unfortunately we live in the parallel un perfect universe haha.
Without knowing too much more my first thoughts are was it summer time and the tree had minimal foliage on it or none at all? Sometimes maples can have a summer dormancy and if kept out in the sun the water trapped in the trunk and branches can actually cook the tree. Otherwise you may have had some sort of fungal infection or maybe even a pest like aphids, they can leave behind a sticky residue which is called honey dew, this then turns into sooty mould which is black.
Best video explaining maple branch selection I've ever seen! Thank you so much! Love your channel.
excellent video Josh well explained
Thanks for the vid, I have 2 large trunk maples that I cut back last year and are growing wild, this helps to decide what to keep.
A lot of good design considerations and why. Always like to hear the thoughts as to why you’ve let something’s grow more and how to maintain the tapering and over all end design coming through to the eventual design. Keep the videos coming.
Top notch video Josh, Your explanations and reasons for the decisions you made are clear and simple to understand. Loved the tool test and proverb.
Nice video! Good to see you back with some new ones recently...hoping to see more, too! cheers
There is certainly more planned!
Excellent video, Josh! It’s always great to understand the thought process behind each cut. Every time I see a video like this, a new light comes on in my brain. Thank you.
I received my branch cutters and wow they are amazing, this was perfect timing. thanks so much
There's some pruning in your future!
Great video Josh. Thank you for the knowledge! It would be great to see an update on this tree in the autumn please
Another straight forward excellent vid clip. Thanks.
Very useful. As always.
Southern hemisphere gang unite!
🇦🇺
Hey Josh thanks for that, awsome stuff, what about internode length, what would you do if the only branch option has a long first internode?
You would either have to cut back to that internode then try and keep the growth under control from there or hope for a new bud near that area to grow a new more suited branch from. Otherwise you may have to change the design of the tree to suit the longer first branch, in this case you may need a more elongated design rather then a short stout design.
Great video thank you. Clear information, reasoning and strategy. Just one question, will keeping the top pruned, slow down the healing of the big wounds?
Thanks
Hi Andrew, yes it will slow the healing of the wound but I can live with that, what I wouldn't be able to live with is having to create another wound to remove the top of the tree again if it get too thick and out of control. The wound should mostly heal within a Single season though with the putty applied, it's only been 2 months since I worked that wound down and it's all ready rolled over a fair amount.
So informative. You make it look soo easy. Way to go mate 👍. No need to keep branches near the cut site to aid in healing?
The wound was worked on first to allow some time with a large amount of foliage above the cut to help it along a bit, it will certainly slow down now but its more important at this stage that i get that apex branch under control otherwise i will end up needing to remove it causing yet another wound. In a perfect world i could do both but unfortunately we live in the parallel un perfect universe haha.
Great video Josh, I lost most of my Maples this year due to something that turned the branches black which continued down the trunk, any ideas?
Without knowing too much more my first thoughts are was it summer time and the tree had minimal foliage on it or none at all? Sometimes maples can have a summer dormancy and if kept out in the sun the water trapped in the trunk and branches can actually cook the tree. Otherwise you may have had some sort of fungal infection or maybe even a pest like aphids, they can leave behind a sticky residue which is called honey dew, this then turns into sooty mould which is black.
Summer there we are just coming into winter how sad 😪🌲
👍👌🙂