Nice 'save' on the verge. Using the 'break' shape will surely get it 'close enough - nice to see the burnished pinion finish - so many do not pay attention to future wear.
Thanks for the video on pallet repair---would be interested is seeing how a new set of verge pallets would be made. I thought the intro music was very clever, being from the same period as the clock, more or less.
and here I am fitting a quartz movement into the latest French slate clock that has ground to a halt...😳😲😦 (in my defence, I keep all the original parts safely stored for the next owner and I fit the quartz unit/hands to a replacement dial and bezel sourced from fleabay)
Thanks. Here is a link to the pivot polishing tool. Mine is the lathe mounted version, but the are basically the same. www.cousinsuk.com/product/rollimat-clock-pivot-polishing-machine
I like to weld axes in a L profile piece of scrap. The V in the profile will keep the "strait" and the rust of the scrap will not allow to ... weld the ax to the iron.
Hello Tommy, Good Vlog, thank you... Very interesting seeing the Microset calibration setup. The repair of the pallet arbor was good (look at me using horology terms - lol). See you next time... Take care. Paul,,
Nice. Saw the 1mm drill. Any video on smaller spade drills. I struggle making the 0.1mm for repivoting. So have a few watches in drawers all waiting a pivot :-)
I try to avoid pivoting that small! 0.1 is crazy small to drill into hardened material. I do have some spade drills, but I tend to use carbide for most things. That 1mm drill was a carbide stub drill.
@@TommyJobson those .1mm carbide drills you get for PCB boards break inside and then you have to chip them out. Do you have carbide drills that are less prone to snapping? Do you run them at specific speeds? If I break one more carbide drill of the .1 and have to chip it out I'll think I'll give up this hobby 🤯
@@fior2373 for small carbide drills I buy from www.drill-service.co.uk the carbide pcb drills are okay but i agree they break too easily. I’m planning on using some broken drill shanks and grinding them to be carbide flat drills.
The pallets will absolutely be softer than I would like. If I was doing the rest of the clock they would probably end up getting hardened faces soft soldered on whilst adjusting the escapement. Even without they will last many years and someone in the future can add faces if they need to.
Nice 'save' on the verge. Using the 'break' shape will surely get it 'close enough - nice to see the burnished pinion finish - so many do not pay attention to future wear.
Thanks for the video on pallet repair---would be interested is seeing how a new set of verge pallets would be made. I thought the intro music was very clever, being from the same period as the clock, more or less.
Hi Tommy, thank you for sharing my video that’s very kind of you. I’m enjoying your videos and learning from you so thanks for posting your videos.
No problem, glad your getting something out of my videos.
I like measurement setup! Repair done great,
Thanks!
Well done! Tommy, I’d love to see you make an extensive video on the MicroSet and software.
and here I am fitting a quartz movement into the latest French slate clock that has ground to a halt...😳😲😦
(in my defence, I keep all the original parts safely stored for the next owner and I fit the quartz unit/hands to a replacement dial and bezel sourced from fleabay)
Really enjoyed this one Tommy. Love that clock, a nice repair on the verge pallet arbor too.
Cheers,
Reuben 👏
Cheers Reuben. It's a lovely thing and very unusual.
Fascinating as always. The pivot burnishing tool was very interesting, I'd like to know more about it
Thanks. Here is a link to the pivot polishing tool. Mine is the lathe mounted version, but the are basically the same. www.cousinsuk.com/product/rollimat-clock-pivot-polishing-machine
Your videos are so good. Thanks for teaching us all
Thanks very much. I really enjoyed your latest video too, fantastic work.
Your videos are excellent and you deserve a lot more subscribers
I appreciate that, thank you. Let's hope more people find the channel.
I like to weld axes in a L profile piece of scrap. The V in the profile will keep the "strait" and the rust of the scrap will not allow to ... weld the ax to the iron.
Hello Tommy,
Good Vlog, thank you... Very interesting seeing the Microset calibration setup. The repair of the pallet arbor was good (look at me using horology terms - lol). See you next time...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul. The Microset is an extremely useful tool. If you would like to do a TKW sticker swap then drop me a line.
@@TommyJobson Sticker Swap sounds good, I have just emailed you.
Nice. Saw the 1mm drill. Any video on smaller spade drills. I struggle making the 0.1mm for repivoting. So have a few watches in drawers all waiting a pivot :-)
I try to avoid pivoting that small! 0.1 is crazy small to drill into hardened material. I do have some spade drills, but I tend to use carbide for most things. That 1mm drill was a carbide stub drill.
@@TommyJobson those .1mm carbide drills you get for PCB boards break inside and then you have to chip them out. Do you have carbide drills that are less prone to snapping? Do you run them at specific speeds? If I break one more carbide drill of the .1 and have to chip it out I'll think I'll give up this hobby 🤯
@@fior2373 for small carbide drills I buy from www.drill-service.co.uk the carbide pcb drills are okay but i agree they break too easily. I’m planning on using some broken drill shanks and grinding them to be carbide flat drills.
Nice save! Have the pallets ended up soft after all that soldering, or did you harden them again?
The pallets will absolutely be softer than I would like. If I was doing the rest of the clock they would probably end up getting hardened faces soft soldered on whilst adjusting the escapement. Even without they will last many years and someone in the future can add faces if they need to.