An easier solution would be to grab the beeper with pliers and twist it, which will break it from the connectors. Then throw it away while cursing it, or use it in future Arduino project to annoy others ;) This did the job for me. Thanks for the motivation though! :)
Thanks for taking the time to upload this, very helpful. Had to get a ceilo breeze to turn on and off my inverter mini split when cool temp was reached or else it just blew out humidity in fan mode - Only problem is it would beep every time. I have a Della so with the brand I didn’t even have to take anything apart, just pulled the control board straight out.
Thank you, this worked. Recently bought the Eaton UPS 5E 2000i - the beeping volume was so loud I awoke everyone in the apartment including the neighbors. I've grabbed the speaker with a pair of small pliers and twisted gently left-right until the pins broke, took only a few twists, worked like a charm.
Great video, this has been the bane of my existence living in SA too...many thanks for this! I've been searching for a solution for a while now, even considered NUT tools via a Linux box to script to the server. I really don't understand why Eaton didn't install a button somewhere to acknowledge the loss of power.
My pleasure. I also thought of going down that NUTty road but I didn't want to have a machine running permanently as a server. I think the lack of a mute button is combination of a small design oversight by Eaton and South Africa having load shedding which is an abnormal state of affairs that a UPS is not meant to handle on its own. Normally the UPS would bridge a short interruption until the power was restored from, for example, the grid or a generator.
What really grinds my gears is that paid "highly trained" Engineers though it would be a great idea to put a component on the UPS that literally drains the battery to tell you the power is off, when you are suppose to conserve every last drop you have. Mercer no load with 2x LION battery brand new. with zero load beeps it self to death literally in less than 5 hours. Pure genius!!!!
I suspect the buzzer consumes less power than the fan, let alone the rest of the electronics that create the heat but I think I understand where you are coming from because every Watt hour of power adds up.
My pleasure. I think mine woke me up once or twice. I also found that noise rather irritating and a somewhat stressful reminder of the state of national electrical supply. Silencing it certainly helped preserve some of my sanity.
in what situations have you heard these sounds at night? Was it on purpose - that is, the electric disappeared, or can it make sounds simply by itself, without any reason ?
@@e1jo It was only when the electric current disappears. My country struggles with electricity supply and it might happen in the early hours of the morning. (Also, it is probably worth mentioning I do not have this make/model of UPS. I have a different brand.)
Thank you for this video. That beep has been driving me nuts for 4 years and last night I had had enough. I wasn't daring enough to try and desolder the thing so, instead, I thoroughly plugged the bugger's little hole with Presstik. It's still beeping but the volume is down to a very tolerable level. Upshot is that I will still be able to hear if the batteries drop too low. I'll be trying the NUT software on my Linux machine to monitor the UPS' batteries in the near future. The companion software from Eaton's site is horrendously bad.
Sunday morning, woke up at 8 am because of this "dummy" beeper. Your video inspired me but instead of removing the beeper, I used my mighty hot glue gun. Sound now is very discreet! Thanks a lot! My other ups from APC has a great button in front and disabling any sound permanently with one touch! Why not you eaton?
I'm glad the hot glue worked! Someone else suggested silicone so there are quite a few of options. I think most people would pay extra for a mute button. 😁
I cannot fathom the level of idiocy required to put a buzzer that goes on endlessly to alert people about what they already know and is glaringly obvious. I can't imagine what the hell they were thinking in putting this buzzer on there in the first place but oh my fucking god this is too difficult for someone like me to do with my shaky hands. I guess they want me to buy their most expensive model with the mute button.
Slightly off subject, but given that people seem to be using their UPSs as power banks/stations for load-shedding, has anyone successfully replaced the lead acid battery with a lithium equivalent?
How do I stop the timer shutdown? UPS shuts down after 1 hour precisely, even if the battery is still going strong. I only run my router and fiber terminator on the UPS (Eaton 5E 850)
My UPS battery usually powers my computer for about 30-40 minutes, then fails. I have now connected a second battery in parallel and it last for longer, but the UPS (resistor) still shuts it down after 60 minutes. It would be nice to have it last as long as two batteries do, perhaps even three, if I could bypass the auto-shutdown 'feature'. Thanks again.
Well done on doubling the run time. It really depends on why it is shutting down. For example, the UPS overheats, the battery has no more charge left, a protection circuit kicking int to try and protect the battery from deep discharge or the UPS from suffering damage due to overheating. If it is exactly 60 minutes each time then probably the latter. My UPS was purchased in late 2019 to replace the previous one that saw a lot of service due to load shedding over the years. I think the charging circuit eventually gave out...
My Ups also shut off after 1 hour then I have to switch on again. Isn't there a way to bypass it so that ups doesn't shut off every hour. My battery capacity is in such way that my ups hold for whole 4 hours when stage 6 . but have to switch on every hour is annoying. Any ideas
@@eugeneventer1769 No sorry, very irritating Indeed. I did buy a 'Vertiv' UPS, and that has a two-hour cutoff, but as loadshitting is usually about 2 hours and a few minutes (5, 10 or 20 mins), it still cuts out and you have to reboot. Annoying, to say the least. Thanks ANC !!!
Hi there, hope you well I did exactly that for my 2 ups 1 works perfectly the second when I plug to power give me a sound like bzzzzzz and overheating as well?! Please advise thanks in advance
I am glad you enjoyed the humour in the video. I think a lot of people miss the quips because they are quite dry. It is probably easier to relate to when you have the same UPS and lots of load shedding.
i remove also on mine to, it is anoying they did not put a swtich to force off the speaker, i didnt remove the pcb on its mount i snip off the piezo, also is the can be replace with a Red Led and mount it infront to see it blinking, thanks on the vid that gave me idea what is in the back of that pcb.
Yes a switch would have been nice but would increase the cost. I like your idea of replacing the buzzer with an LED. My pleasure, I am glad the video helped.
Thanks for this tip. I also live in SA and load-shitting is a pain. Do you know how to make the UPS go for longer than an hour, as it automatically switches off after 60 minutes. There are a few videos on RUclips that says one has to remove a certain resistor (C19) and that will stop the UPS from shutting down, but I do not want to do this and then it does not work and I cannot reconnect it, then my UPS is useless to me. Thanks.
I am not familiar with your UPS or that specific time limitation so I'll first give a general answer that covers the two most common limitations for extended run time and then I'll address removing and replacing resistors in general. Obviously any changes to batteries, cooling, auto-shutdown and so on are at your own risk. Run time depends greatly on the UPS and the batteries. This one when the batteries were new mine could run for about four hours. However, lead acid chemistry batteries sustain serious wear when they are deeply discharged and more so when they remain in that state for an extended period of time. My UPS could eventually could only outlast a two hour load shedding window, then only 90 minutes, then one hour and now my batteries are only lasting about 30 minutes. Time for new batteries or a new plan for backup power. Adding larger batteries that have more capacity in terms of Watt hours while keeping the voltage the same, will extend the run time from a battery point of view. However, the battery recharging circuit of the UPS can only handle so much and therefore you can only go so far before you need to add a separate battery charger. If you don't do that then the batteries will not be recharged by the next load shedding window because the charger won't charge a larger battery faster. Stage four load shedding and grid faults after load shedding which lead to extended outages are what caused my lead acid batteries to degrade. At stage four they are still busy recharging from the previous outage when the power goes out again. Then again this solution was only ever meant to handle stage two load shedding when the intervals are less than half as frequent compared to stage four. The other option for batteries is to go for Lithium, they are more expensive but last longer as they can handle being discharged far better than lead acid chemistry. If you are just trying to run an internet router then those direct current (DC) UPS are great. They may only be glorified power banks but they charge off alternating current (AC) and then store and supply DC to the router. Reducing the conversion of Regarding the UPS unless it has active cooling, i.e., a fan, then it will probably not be able to run for extended periods without overheating. The losses in converting direct current (DC) to alternating current (AC) result in heat. Electronics do not function well when they are too hot. Above normal operating temperature the failure rate starts increasing. If that 60 minute shutdown that you refer to is a result of overheating then you need to improve the cooling. If it is merely a timer for normal operation, e.g., to prevent damage to the batteries due to them being discharged to a low level of charge, then you could get away with it albeit that batteries will be working hard as described. If you are handy with a soldering iron then you can remove a resistor without damaging it. Low wattage resistors can be "cooked" to the point where they are no longer function so it is important to not get them stuck on the soldering iron tip. I am imagining it is a small rectangular surface mount resistor because they are cheaper to buy and solder compared to a through hole resistor. Resistors are very low cost components. I had to buy more than one because the cost is so low that it is not worth anyone selling them one at a time. Do you know anyone into electronics? They could whip that resistor off in a less than a minute without damaging it and most of that time would be waiting for the soldering iron to heat up. Reinstalling the resistor would also be a simple matter for them. A solder sucker or solder wick (copper braid) with a decent soldering iron is all that is required. To (re)install a resistor requires a touch of solder and perhaps a bit of flux with the same soldering iron. Fancier would be a rework (hot air) station but that option would not be required. Beer makes the world go round... To replace a resistor with another one requires reading off or measuring the resistance of it so that the value in Ohms can be matched. The wattage that the resistor can handle can be the same or higher. If you do remove it yourself then make sure you note the value before destroying / discarding / losing it in case you need to replace it. Sometimes the value is on the circuit diagram if you can find it. Good luck!
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Hi there. Thanks for the lengthy reply. I have the same UPS as in your video, the EATON 5E. I have three connected to my system - one for my computer box only, one for my 2 monitors and speakers, and a third for my 2 external docking stations and fibre modem. EXACTLY at 60 minutes they all trip off together. Must be a safety thing. I did find a video that mentions resistor C19 must be removed from the board, but I am a bit hesitant just in case there is a checking system that 'sees' that the resistor is missing, and then they may not then operate at all. I shall just have to live with the 1 hour limit, shutdown at 58 minutes, and restart again for another 58 minutes... I do, however, have a 2000W inverter connected to a deep-cycle battery that keeys my entire system running for 4 to 6 hours, but that involves shutting down when load-shitting kicks in, then disconnecting all 6 power cabes, then plugging all 6 to the inverter, rebooting then going on again, then having to reverse the entire procedure when the ANC and Escom deem it convenient to supply power to the plebs again!!! I have priced a large backup option from Energy Solutions - a Mecer Hybrid Inverter 5KVA/5kW, with 4 x 100AH batteries, with a 20 millisecond switchover, but that is just shy of R25000, not including courier to Jhb, and installation by an electrician. So I think I will just have to plod along with what I have. I really do appreciate your reply though. Warm regards, Wayne.
@@waynejohn8 That is very interesting. Mine only supplies the modem and router so maybe it is load related. Yes my use case is crying out for a DC UPS... Perhaps mine is so lightly loaded that the safeguard doesn't kick in? Try putting just the modem on one of them and see if it still trips at 60 minutes. My UPS is not connected via USB. Are yours connected via their USB ports to anything? If you have three units then removing the resistor from one of them to test makes sense. Worst case is you need to replace the resistor on one UPS. I hear you on the cost of putting in a larger inverter and battery. I am costing out a system and at this point I may as well add with solar panels. I am getting tired of sitting in the dark with candles and the load shedding interrupts my ability to work... If you are in Johannesburg then you may want to look up there for backup power solutions as there are plenty of companies offering that sort of solution, e.g., SP Energy.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Hi. Yes, I have tried only my modem on one UPS, and it still shuts off after 60 minutes. No USB usage. Weird. I am in Jhb, yes, and I will give SP Energy a try. Thanks for the help.
Ja, replacing the buzzer with an LED will definitely stop it beeping. Just need to measure the voltage and work out what resistance value of resistor is required to drop the voltage sufficiently to stop the LED from burning out. Assuming the voltage is higher than what an LED can tolerate because I have not measured it.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Should be about 3.3v or 5v buzzer, maximum would be 12v buzzer. The function of buzzer is to communicate what happened with the motherboard, so in your case, if it is replaced with LED, you can still see the UPS status without it being annoying to the ear.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 If you have a way to make simple mod of your UPS adding fan so it will cool the battery and transformer while charging/discharging, please mention me. I wanted to know. My simpliest workaround method is by adding thermostat regulator and adding separate AC to DC converter, so I don't messing up with the factory board. If it can be done in cheaper and more compact form, replacing lead acid with lithium-ion and adding much more capacity for hours of backup isn't risky anymore.
When I have purchased UPS units I have specifically sought out models with built in cooling fans to avoid having to try and add cooling. My intention has always been to run the UPS for two hour stints of load shedding so I know it needs cooling for such an extended runtime. One other thing to bear in mind about adding batteries with a larger Amp/Watt-Hour capacity is that the charger will take longer to charge them. It can still only provide a certain number of amps so it can end up running for a very long time trying to recharge larger capacity batteries. With frequent load shedding lead acid batteries in particular have a tough time recharging before the next bout of power outage arrives. This really accelerates the degradation of lead acid batteries. I am a big fan of lithium batteries although I have not used them to replace lead acid batteries in any devices. I like them because in addition to having more discharge/recharge cycles, they charge quicker and don't suffer the same amount of degradation by being deeply discharged or left discharged as lead acid batteries would.
Yes, someone previously commented about using silicone. I imagine that either hot glue or silicone will make it a lot quieter. Most of the trouble was in opening the UPS and locating the buzzer rather than removing it. Let us know how hot glue works out.
Ja that could help muffle the noise. I think the trick would be to get the silicone into the buzzer. The hole looked pretty small as I remember it. However a paperclip, toothpick or a syringe could solve that problem. either which way, best to get it right the first time else you'll be opening up that UPS again. 😅
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326Followed your instructions and disabled buzzer. Had no soldering iron so I simply used a knife to physically break connection line between beeper terminals. Seems to have worked.
@@Alphonso7777777 Someone once told me that they stabbed the buzzer with a screwdriver and that seemed a bit excessive. As long as it is not beeping and still working then I would call it a win.
The device beeps for a reason; Such as a problem with the mains, battery failure, UPS fault or numerous other problems. One day the beep might help you to save your equipment from armageddon!
Nonsense. It beeps so you buy the one expensive model with the mute button. I don't need to be annoyingly alerted endlessly about a power outage in my house that is completely fucking obvious. This design is idiotic if not a clear cut case of greedy insistence that we buy the expensive one with the mute button.
DON'T DO THIS! Before you have read "Troubleshooting" from your instruction manual for users if you have it. Most UPS devices today have this option built-in in the Power switch. Just lightly tap it two times and you will hear two beeps for sound off, and one beep for sound on. Lightly tap means not pushing it all the way in like when you are turning it on, but just light tap so it will move just a little. Plus you will keep your warranty.
Thank you for your comment. I did read through the manual for the Eaton 5E UPS and it does not mention such a feature using the power button. I can't test it on the UPS as the buzzer is already removed. While it is possible to disable the beep via software, this setting is not permanent. This is a major problem when there is load shedding (rolling blackouts) and the UPS loses its settings. The beeping can return at the worst moment such as when trying to sleep or are on a call. Hence the search for a permanent solution! :-D
Brilliant! Very valuable fix. Applying it to all my hardware. Thanks.
An easier solution would be to grab the beeper with pliers and twist it, which will break it from the connectors. Then throw it away while cursing it, or use it in future Arduino project to annoy others ;)
This did the job for me. Thanks for the motivation though! :)
Thanks for taking the time to upload this, very helpful. Had to get a ceilo breeze to turn on and off my inverter mini split when cool temp was reached or else it just blew out humidity in fan mode - Only problem is it would beep every time. I have a Della so with the brand I didn’t even have to take anything apart, just pulled the control board straight out.
My dog (and me) goes crazy for this stupid beeper. Thanks a lot
Thank you, this worked. Recently bought the Eaton UPS 5E 2000i - the beeping volume was so loud I awoke everyone in the apartment including the neighbors. I've grabbed the speaker with a pair of small pliers and twisted gently left-right until the pins broke, took only a few twists, worked like a charm.
I am glad it helped.
Great video, this has been the bane of my existence living in SA too...many thanks for this! I've been searching for a solution for a while now, even considered NUT tools via a Linux box to script to the server. I really don't understand why Eaton didn't install a button somewhere to acknowledge the loss of power.
My pleasure. I also thought of going down that NUTty road but I didn't want to have a machine running permanently as a server.
I think the lack of a mute button is combination of a small design oversight by Eaton and South Africa having load shedding which is an abnormal state of affairs that a UPS is not meant to handle on its own. Normally the UPS would bridge a short interruption until the power was restored from, for example, the grid or a generator.
Thanks millions for your vedio. Finally I have gotten rid of the sound and get peace back.
What really grinds my gears is that paid "highly trained" Engineers though it would be a great idea to put a component on the UPS that literally drains the battery to tell you the power is off, when you are suppose to conserve every last drop you have. Mercer no load with 2x LION battery brand new. with zero load beeps it self to death literally in less than 5 hours. Pure genius!!!!
I suspect the buzzer consumes less power than the fan, let alone the rest of the electronics that create the heat but I think I understand where you are coming from because every Watt hour of power adds up.
Thanks for this. Had a really important meeting early in the morning and the damn thing woke me up at 2AM... I was not pleased.
My pleasure. I think mine woke me up once or twice. I also found that noise rather irritating and a somewhat stressful reminder of the state of national electrical supply. Silencing it certainly helped preserve some of my sanity.
in what situations have you heard these sounds at night? Was it on purpose - that is, the electric disappeared, or can it make sounds simply by itself, without any reason ?
@@e1jo It was only when the electric current disappears. My country struggles with electricity supply and it might happen in the early hours of the morning. (Also, it is probably worth mentioning I do not have this make/model of UPS. I have a different brand.)
@@pieternaude1469 Thank you! It would be interesting to hear what model you are using now?
Thank you for this video. That beep has been driving me nuts for 4 years and last night I had had enough. I wasn't daring enough to try and desolder the thing so, instead, I thoroughly plugged the bugger's little hole with Presstik. It's still beeping but the volume is down to a very tolerable level. Upshot is that I will still be able to hear if the batteries drop too low.
I'll be trying the NUT software on my Linux machine to monitor the UPS' batteries in the near future. The companion software from Eaton's site is horrendously bad.
Sunday morning, woke up at 8 am because of this "dummy" beeper. Your video inspired me but instead of removing the beeper, I used my mighty hot glue gun. Sound now is very discreet! Thanks a lot! My other ups from APC has a great button in front and disabling any sound permanently with one touch! Why not you eaton?
I'm glad the hot glue worked! Someone else suggested silicone so there are quite a few of options. I think most people would pay extra for a mute button. 😁
A uniquely South African problem, I have been suffering inscesent beeping every night for months now - thank you! ANC se P@#$
Thanks much 👍🏾…. It was very useful for me 😉
I cannot fathom the level of idiocy required to put a buzzer that goes on endlessly to alert people about what they already know and is glaringly obvious. I can't imagine what the hell they were thinking in putting this buzzer on there in the first place but oh my fucking god this is too difficult for someone like me to do with my shaky hands. I guess they want me to buy their most expensive model with the mute button.
thank you this is very helpful
Slightly off subject, but given that people seem to be using their UPSs as power banks/stations for load-shedding, has anyone successfully replaced the lead acid battery with a lithium equivalent?
How do I stop the timer shutdown? UPS shuts down after 1 hour precisely, even if the battery is still going strong. I only run my router and fiber terminator on the UPS (Eaton 5E 850)
Do you know how to disable auto shutdown after 1 hour. I'm running only a wifi rooter and my 5E shuts down after an hour
My UPS battery usually powers my computer for about 30-40 minutes, then fails. I have now connected a second battery in parallel and it last for longer, but the UPS (resistor) still shuts it down after 60 minutes. It would be nice to have it last as long as two batteries do, perhaps even three, if I could bypass the auto-shutdown 'feature'. Thanks again.
Well done on doubling the run time. It really depends on why it is shutting down. For example, the UPS overheats, the battery has no more charge left, a protection circuit kicking int to try and protect the battery from deep discharge or the UPS from suffering damage due to overheating. If it is exactly 60 minutes each time then probably the latter. My UPS was purchased in late 2019 to replace the previous one that saw a lot of service due to load shedding over the years. I think the charging circuit eventually gave out...
My Ups also shut off after 1 hour then I have to switch on again. Isn't there a way to bypass it so that ups doesn't shut off every hour. My battery capacity is in such way that my ups hold for whole 4 hours when stage 6 . but have to switch on every hour is annoying. Any ideas
@@eugeneventer1769 No sorry, very irritating Indeed. I did buy a 'Vertiv' UPS, and that has a two-hour cutoff, but as loadshitting is usually about 2 hours and a few minutes (5, 10 or 20 mins), it still cuts out and you have to reboot. Annoying, to say the least. Thanks ANC !!!
Hi there, hope you well I did exactly that for my 2 ups 1 works perfectly the second when I plug to power give me a sound like bzzzzzz and overheating as well?! Please advise thanks in advance
Awesome thanks man 👏🏻
My pleasure. I hope it helps because load shedding is not going away anytime soon!
Oke, I could not stop laughing at your video... I am just as annoyed with my buzzers. I have 4 of these little monsters!
I am glad you enjoyed the humour in the video. I think a lot of people miss the quips because they are quite dry. It is probably easier to relate to when you have the same UPS and lots of load shedding.
i remove also on mine to, it is anoying they did not put a swtich to force off the speaker, i didnt remove the pcb on its mount i snip off the piezo, also is the can be replace with a Red Led and mount it infront to see it blinking, thanks on the vid that gave me idea what is in the back of that pcb.
Yes a switch would have been nice but would increase the cost. I like your idea of replacing the buzzer with an LED. My pleasure, I am glad the video helped.
Thanks for this tip. I also live in SA and load-shitting is a pain. Do you know how to make the UPS go for longer than an hour, as it automatically switches off after 60 minutes. There are a few videos on RUclips that says one has to remove a certain resistor (C19) and that will stop the UPS from shutting down, but I do not want to do this and then it does not work and I cannot reconnect it, then my UPS is useless to me. Thanks.
I am not familiar with your UPS or that specific time limitation so I'll first give a general answer that covers the two most common limitations for extended run time and then I'll address removing and replacing resistors in general. Obviously any changes to batteries, cooling, auto-shutdown and so on are at your own risk.
Run time depends greatly on the UPS and the batteries. This one when the batteries were new mine could run for about four hours. However, lead acid chemistry batteries sustain serious wear when they are deeply discharged and more so when they remain in that state for an extended period of time. My UPS could eventually could only outlast a two hour load shedding window, then only 90 minutes, then one hour and now my batteries are only lasting about 30 minutes. Time for new batteries or a new plan for backup power.
Adding larger batteries that have more capacity in terms of Watt hours while keeping the voltage the same, will extend the run time from a battery point of view. However, the battery recharging circuit of the UPS can only handle so much and therefore you can only go so far before you need to add a separate battery charger. If you don't do that then the batteries will not be recharged by the next load shedding window because the charger won't charge a larger battery faster. Stage four load shedding and grid faults after load shedding which lead to extended outages are what caused my lead acid batteries to degrade. At stage four they are still busy recharging from the previous outage when the power goes out again. Then again this solution was only ever meant to handle stage two load shedding when the intervals are less than half as frequent compared to stage four.
The other option for batteries is to go for Lithium, they are more expensive but last longer as they can handle being discharged far better than lead acid chemistry. If you are just trying to run an internet router then those direct current (DC) UPS are great. They may only be glorified power banks but they charge off alternating current (AC) and then store and supply DC to the router. Reducing the conversion of
Regarding the UPS unless it has active cooling, i.e., a fan, then it will probably not be able to run for extended periods without overheating. The losses in converting direct current (DC) to alternating current (AC) result in heat. Electronics do not function well when they are too hot. Above normal operating temperature the failure rate starts increasing.
If that 60 minute shutdown that you refer to is a result of overheating then you need to improve the cooling. If it is merely a timer for normal operation, e.g., to prevent damage to the batteries due to them being discharged to a low level of charge, then you could get away with it albeit that batteries will be working hard as described. If you are handy with a soldering iron then you can remove a resistor without damaging it. Low wattage resistors can be "cooked" to the point where they are no longer function so it is important to not get them stuck on the soldering iron tip. I am imagining it is a small rectangular surface mount resistor because they are cheaper to buy and solder compared to a through hole resistor.
Resistors are very low cost components. I had to buy more than one because the cost is so low that it is not worth anyone selling them one at a time. Do you know anyone into electronics? They could whip that resistor off in a less than a minute without damaging it and most of that time would be waiting for the soldering iron to heat up. Reinstalling the resistor would also be a simple matter for them. A solder sucker or solder wick (copper braid) with a decent soldering iron is all that is required. To (re)install a resistor requires a touch of solder and perhaps a bit of flux with the same soldering iron. Fancier would be a rework (hot air) station but that option would not be required. Beer makes the world go round...
To replace a resistor with another one requires reading off or measuring the resistance of it so that the value in Ohms can be matched. The wattage that the resistor can handle can be the same or higher. If you do remove it yourself then make sure you note the value before destroying / discarding / losing it in case you need to replace it. Sometimes the value is on the circuit diagram if you can find it.
Good luck!
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Hi there. Thanks for the lengthy reply. I have the same UPS as in your video, the EATON 5E. I have three connected to my system - one for my computer box only, one for my 2 monitors and speakers, and a third for my 2 external docking stations and fibre modem. EXACTLY at 60 minutes they all trip off together. Must be a safety thing. I did find a video that mentions resistor C19 must be removed from the board, but I am a bit hesitant just in case there is a checking system that 'sees' that the resistor is missing, and then they may not then operate at all. I shall just have to live with the 1 hour limit, shutdown at 58 minutes, and restart again for another 58 minutes... I do, however, have a 2000W inverter connected to a deep-cycle battery that keeys my entire system running for 4 to 6 hours, but that involves shutting down when load-shitting kicks in, then disconnecting all 6 power cabes, then plugging all 6 to the inverter, rebooting then going on again, then having to reverse the entire procedure when the ANC and Escom deem it convenient to supply power to the plebs again!!! I have priced a large backup option from Energy Solutions - a Mecer Hybrid Inverter 5KVA/5kW, with 4 x 100AH batteries, with a 20 millisecond switchover, but that is just shy of R25000, not including courier to Jhb, and installation by an electrician. So I think I will just have to plod along with what I have. I really do appreciate your reply though. Warm regards, Wayne.
@@waynejohn8 That is very interesting. Mine only supplies the modem and router so maybe it is load related. Yes my use case is crying out for a DC UPS... Perhaps mine is so lightly loaded that the safeguard doesn't kick in? Try putting just the modem on one of them and see if it still trips at 60 minutes. My UPS is not connected via USB. Are yours connected via their USB ports to anything?
If you have three units then removing the resistor from one of them to test makes sense. Worst case is you need to replace the resistor on one UPS.
I hear you on the cost of putting in a larger inverter and battery. I am costing out a system and at this point I may as well add with solar panels. I am getting tired of sitting in the dark with candles and the load shedding interrupts my ability to work... If you are in Johannesburg then you may want to look up there for backup power solutions as there are plenty of companies offering that sort of solution, e.g., SP Energy.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Hi. Yes, I have tried only my modem on one UPS, and it still shuts off after 60 minutes. No USB usage. Weird.
I am in Jhb, yes, and I will give SP Energy a try.
Thanks for the help.
Maybe I got a special one. It is now surplus to requirements. Would you like my UPS sans the heavy and dead batteries?
The ANC brought me here
You can literally replace it with LED, people on PC community often exchange their buzzer speaker with LED.
Ja, replacing the buzzer with an LED will definitely stop it beeping. Just need to measure the voltage and work out what resistance value of resistor is required to drop the voltage sufficiently to stop the LED from burning out. Assuming the voltage is higher than what an LED can tolerate because I have not measured it.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 Should be about 3.3v or 5v buzzer, maximum would be 12v buzzer. The function of buzzer is to communicate what happened with the motherboard, so in your case, if it is replaced with LED, you can still see the UPS status without it being annoying to the ear.
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326 If you have a way to make simple mod of your UPS adding fan so it will cool the battery and transformer while charging/discharging, please mention me. I wanted to know. My simpliest workaround method is by adding thermostat regulator and adding separate AC to DC converter, so I don't messing up with the factory board. If it can be done in cheaper and more compact form, replacing lead acid with lithium-ion and adding much more capacity for hours of backup isn't risky anymore.
When I have purchased UPS units I have specifically sought out models with built in cooling fans to avoid having to try and add cooling. My intention has always been to run the UPS for two hour stints of load shedding so I know it needs cooling for such an extended runtime.
One other thing to bear in mind about adding batteries with a larger Amp/Watt-Hour capacity is that the charger will take longer to charge them. It can still only provide a certain number of amps so it can end up running for a very long time trying to recharge larger capacity batteries. With frequent load shedding lead acid batteries in particular have a tough time recharging before the next bout of power outage arrives. This really accelerates the degradation of lead acid batteries.
I am a big fan of lithium batteries although I have not used them to replace lead acid batteries in any devices. I like them because in addition to having more discharge/recharge cycles, they charge quicker and don't suffer the same amount of degradation by being deeply discharged or left discharged as lead acid batteries would.
How about putting some hot glue over it, instead of going through the trouble of removing it? I'm going to try that rather.
Yes, someone previously commented about using silicone. I imagine that either hot glue or silicone will make it a lot quieter. Most of the trouble was in opening the UPS and locating the buzzer rather than removing it. Let us know how hot glue works out.
fill it with silicone
Ja that could help muffle the noise. I think the trick would be to get the silicone into the buzzer. The hole looked pretty small as I remember it. However a paperclip, toothpick or a syringe could solve that problem. either which way, best to get it right the first time else you'll be opening up that UPS again. 😅
This beeping was driving us crazy. What a terrible design flaw by the designing engineers.
Hah, unfortunately for us they did not design for load shedding. 😅
@@breakfixbuildimprove4326Followed your instructions and disabled buzzer. Had no soldering iron so I simply used a knife to physically break connection line between beeper terminals. Seems to have worked.
@@Alphonso7777777 Someone once told me that they stabbed the buzzer with a screwdriver and that seemed a bit excessive. As long as it is not beeping and still working then I would call it a win.
The device beeps for a reason; Such as a problem with the mains, battery failure, UPS fault or numerous other problems. One day the beep might help you to save your equipment from armageddon!
Nonsense. It beeps so you buy the one expensive model with the mute button. I don't need to be annoyingly alerted endlessly about a power outage in my house that is completely fucking obvious. This design is idiotic if not a clear cut case of greedy insistence that we buy the expensive one with the mute button.
DON'T DO THIS! Before you have read "Troubleshooting" from your instruction manual for users if you have it.
Most UPS devices today have this option built-in in the Power switch. Just lightly tap it two times and you will hear two beeps for sound off, and one beep for sound on.
Lightly tap means not pushing it all the way in like when you are turning it on, but just light tap so it will move just a little.
Plus you will keep your warranty.
Thank you for your comment. I did read through the manual for the Eaton 5E UPS and it does not mention such a feature using the power button. I can't test it on the UPS as the buzzer is already removed.
While it is possible to disable the beep via software, this setting is not permanent. This is a major problem when there is load shedding (rolling blackouts) and the UPS loses its settings. The beeping can return at the worst moment such as when trying to sleep or are on a call. Hence the search for a permanent solution! :-D
Doesn't work on Eaton 5E 850VA
The APC does not, only the most expensive APC home model has a mute.