You articulated your rear brake tip so well; thank you! I do this all the time when entering corners in traffic, generally between 10 - 30 mph and it smooths things out so much. It's especially handy when you know you're likely to encounter gravel or debris at a corner's intersection. Thanks again. ✌
My first time with a jerky engine was on a 2020 SV650 test ride. I’m considering it for my first bike so this video will definitely help with the jerkyness. Thank you!
This is a notorious issue for the KTM Duke, my Grom and other Honda's like 500 don't do this, everytime I rode my mates Duke 390 the low rev jerkiness was ridiculous it made it feel like you needed to be stupid careful
A lot of modern bikes flywheels are too small. Made to allow better acceleration. The GR650 Suzuki had a variable mass flywheel, try one if you ever get the chance.
Excellent video, exactly what I was looking for. I thought this problem in cornering was due to a bad throttle deadzone adjustment but your advises make totally sense! Thanks
I use the rear brake technique when doing slow maneuvers, but for street cornering at 30kph or so (20mph) I use the clutch in preference - it is easier to execute. As I drop into the corner, I feather the clutch just slightly, while applying a little throttle throughout. Now I control the corner speed mostly with the clutch, keeping throttle constant. No jerkiness. This is especially good for traffic circles where you are going 3/4 around the traffic circle, and need a constant speed to turn around the circle.
Yet another fabulous vid, striking at the core issue. Returning from a major maintenance ride with lots of slow, mountain riding on fresh tires, my 2004 ST1300 throttle cable free play checked on the low side of 2-6 mm free play, so I left it alone. Now, your vid gives me yet one more area of improvement to concentrate on. Thank you! Additionally concentrating on front wheel braking while slowing down in tight curves….feeling that contact patch getting larger and more effective. Especially easy to feel with 2 or 3 or 4 PSI lower and softer than spec. Loving that! Parking lot practice next…! ❤
EXCELLENT WELL EXPLAINED ! In my opinion the best instructional video because a thorough explantion is followed by practical practice tips. Thank you and Best Cheers !
People are saying the 390 needs an ECU to fix the jerkiness in 1st and 2nd gear. Then people say the ECU _can_ invalidate your insurance, and it's a hefty sum of money too. Nobody told me it's a skill issue before now. Thanks!
Privet Andrey, thanks so much for another interesting video. I'm new to motorbiking and I'm experiencing this problem with my 125cc bike, which is very jerky in 1st and also in 2nd gear. I'm going to try out this technique soon.
Huh, you made me realize I was doing this unconsciously already, cause I’ve noticed if I don’t quite close the throttle the engine braking isn’t as strong. So I want to practice this more consciously and see if I can develop my skills more!
Thank you for this! I have a Kawasaki Vulcan S and it is very jerky. People said to buy the booster plug but I chose not to because I heard mixed opinions about it’s negative effect on speed. So I just really slowly open the throttle but sometimes I don’t feel like opening it that slowly and it jerks. Especially during Uturns, I want to open it faster and it jerks several times during the Uturn. I will try this, thanks again.
I have never had a problem riding motorcycles smoothly until I recently purchased a new 2024 motorcycle. The throttle feels extra jerky. I suddenly feel like I'm learning all over again!
Could you make a video teaching the basic stuff of bikes in general . I am a 15 year old student from India and love automobiles in general and was always confused about different bike or car related things. And my favourite category of bikes is adventure tourers and BMW 1250 GSA is my favourite bike.
One tip from my side brother. When you sit as a pillion from now on, close your eyes and focus on the sound of the bike, and slowly try to connect every action taken by the rider with how it affects the sound. Later when you will start riding on your own, this will help you out make bike riding your instinct and muscle memory, and hence you will have all the freedom to focus on the road and view ahead.
Moto C: To take up the slack dragging brakes fixes that mostly. My question: If I could achieve perfect full Throttle AND Front brake control using only my right handL Is there any advantage stability wise to use the front brake instead of the rear during low speed tight turns? It would seem that front brake would give more uplifting force since the two tire rotation directions and contact patches are not aligned and could provide some interesting effects if mastered. Would seem there could be an advantage to swapping levers (Clutch Right, Front Brake left) which would give more independant control of throttle, clutch, Front Brake, and Rear Brake.
классный совет, санкс! =) олсо у евро4 катыма можно было починить AFR путем втыкания копеешного резистора вместо о2 сенсора, а в евро5 уже ECU в лупе чекает, и только замена головного, а это 400 евро, все эндуристы 690 страдают на низах из-за евробюрократов, не делающих различий между чадящей клеткой и крошечным моточком -_- мне кажется можно "холостых" добавить уже к ручке, точно так же добавив сопротивления
I'll give this a try. I thought it was mainly my throttle game and an older bike. But the technique seems to be build momentum into the turn, lean and coast, then accelerate out.
GYMKHANA Rider don't use clutch either....!!!! I want to learn it... Riding such speed and turning tight corners...without NO JERKS ... WITHOUT NO CLUTCH...it sounds SO PROFESSIONAL...!!!!! 😃😃😃
It took me months to get used to the throttle jerkiness, for instance, when going from off-throttle to on-throttle in a tight turn. At first, I used to use the friction zone to smoothen this out, but then other riders told me that it is bad to use the clutch in a turn (I don't really know why this is bad, smooth is always good, right?). My throttle-hand has gotten more precise over time, so I need to don't need to use the clutch-hand as often to smoothen things out, but I still occasionally do that.
It's very bad/dangerous to use clutch in turning because it cuts engine power to rear wheel. Engine power or spinning rear wheel is what makes bike stable or stand straight. Also putting clutch means you can't accelerat or break quickly. All these things make it better to no clutch in turn and usually no no brake in turn or you hit ground. Use trail braking aka brake slowly/trailing the 1st brake before turn, use this instead of clutch to slow/smoothen in turn
from what i found, things we can do to maybe solve this issue is: verify idle control valve and throttle body, givr these a good clean,check tps and map sensors. 2nd verify spark plugs. 3rd verify the chain tension, and verify the throttle dead spot. . . . . . ultimately : GET RID OF THAT JUNK BIKE 😂 and get yourself a 4 cylinder japanese bike 😍👌
I could do with some of these videos but for DCT bikes, that have no clutch control on the handlebar. I'm told the rear brake drag is the way, but I wouldn't mind seeing it, with the controls narrated.
ok, now how to fix the problem itself rather than cope with it. what i do is press clutch lever (depress actual clutch (disengaging clutch) ), give a twist gas, depress clutch lever slowly (pressing the clutch plates each others ( engaging clutch) ). and when releasing throttle (to no have the jerkiness from releasing (assuming there is jerkiness from applying throttle, that i covered the solution in the first part with the clutch. and second type of jerkiness when you release throttle)) i do it slowly. but why does it do that ?
What if the motorcycle is new and the clutch is smooth and it works great, then it goes in for the first service at 600 miles, and the clutch hops in first gear until you let it out all the way? The clutch works good in second, third, forth, fifth, and sixth.
Sticky rubber Ben. If you can, feel a trials bikes tyres. They're like pencil eraser sticky. Or hard terrain knobbies vs soft terrain knobbies. The stickier, the grippier.
@@redtobertshateshandles I see 👀 I associate sticky rubber with, I guess, dry, track focused tyres? I guess a good set of all weather tyres from a reputable brand would be appropriate?
It's ok on very slow speeds, but if you try to do it on a higher speed while leaning if you make a mistake and release the clutch a bit too fast - you can slide the rear wheel and lowside or highside, depending on situation. That's why normally it's advised to always stay in gear while cornering and do all shifting before the turn. Unless it's a very gentle corner, where your bike is almost upright.
Can you please do a video how to control clutch in a very heavy traffic? My city has almost all day heavy traffic and is hilly area, also I have Duke 250 and i have to keep using half clutch all the time which i think will degrade the life of the clutch plates too quickly
Here is a vid about how to save your clutch when riding in friction zone: ruclips.net/video/2fUA8kv1rGs/видео.html And eventually I'll make a video about riding in a city, but you are right about clutch - it's the key for slow riding!
@@MotoControlEn thank you, also just to let you know, I watch this exact video of yours when i first owned a bike. Nevertheless, I will be looking forward for your new video cause I really need ways to save the clutch as much as possible as I have to use the clutch way too much
You will wear out something, no matter what. Unfortunately, you will wear out rear brakes faster if you like using that, or the clutch, if you are using that. Get a scooter, at least you only wear out your tires :D Life of City riding is a story of wear and tear, even cars who only go on highways last longer than cars driven in the city..............
IMO, the 'jerky' engine, the transition from closed to open throttle, is because of crap fueling calibration. Simple fact. Manufacturers just can not calibrate low speed/rev/throttle, or can not be bothered. Incompetence or indifference. Both are unacceptable. I have ridden may bikes over the years, Japanese & European and the only manufacturer that comes close to perfecting their fueling with little to no jerkiness is BMW. The number of bike reviews i have read over the years where a comment about the jerky throttle has been made, highlighting a 'problem' amongst the glowing accolades, is few. Don't bite the hand that feeds you. But i ride many bikes where the jerky throttle was never mentioned by a reviewer, but it is blatantly apparent there is a problem. Maybe these reviewers are so ham-fisted or insensitive they never notice. There are also mechanical reasons why engines can be jerky, including poor chain and/or throttle cable adjustment. Most of the jerky engines i have experienced are fuel injected. KTM, Yamaha and Honda are good (bad?) examples of jerky engines and i don't buy them as a result.
Thank you Moto Control. Being smooth, not jerky at any speed is what all riders must learn.
THANK YOU. Perfect explanation of what I was feeling. I have been looking for help, but no one seemed to understand.
You articulated your rear brake tip so well; thank you! I do this all the time when entering corners in traffic, generally between 10 - 30 mph and it smooths things out so much. It's especially handy when you know you're likely to encounter gravel or debris at a corner's intersection. Thanks again. ✌
My first time with a jerky engine was on a 2020 SV650 test ride. I’m considering it for my first bike so this video will definitely help with the jerkyness. Thank you!
This is a notorious issue for the KTM Duke, my Grom and other Honda's like 500 don't do this, everytime I rode my mates Duke 390 the low rev jerkiness was ridiculous it made it feel like you needed to be stupid careful
You should try 690 sometime:)
My CB300R is jerky as hell. I thought there was something wrong, it being my first bike. This technique will definitely help alleviate that issue
A lot of modern bikes flywheels are too small. Made to allow better acceleration. The GR650 Suzuki had a variable mass flywheel, try one if you ever get the chance.
My 2019 cb500x is jerky
My current Duke 390 is jerky in the 15-25mph space (which sucks living in a cul de sac). But my FJ09 was like that too.
Excellent video, exactly what I was looking for. I thought this problem in cornering was due to a bad throttle deadzone adjustment but your advises make totally sense! Thanks
Great clear no mess video. Awesome. Hope your new location is being good to you!
Hablas bien el español amigo. Muchísimas gracias por ti. Tu contenido aquí es el mejor.
Nice video, may I add that adjusting the throttle freeplay can also help, most bikes seem to me to have too much...
I use the rear brake technique when doing slow maneuvers, but for street cornering at 30kph or so (20mph) I use the clutch in preference - it is easier to execute. As I drop into the corner, I feather the clutch just slightly, while applying a little throttle throughout. Now I control the corner speed mostly with the clutch, keeping throttle constant. No jerkiness.
This is especially good for traffic circles where you are going 3/4 around the traffic circle, and need a constant speed to turn around the circle.
Thanks, I'll try that. I struggle around traffic circles and roundabouts
Just bought a ktm 390 and was concerned as it's my first bike. I thought i was doing someing wrong so thank you so much for this!!
I was already doing it unconsciously on my Superduke, now I know the theory behind it. Thanks for explaining!
Yet another fabulous vid, striking at the core issue. Returning from a major maintenance ride with lots of slow, mountain riding on fresh tires, my 2004 ST1300 throttle cable free play checked on the low side of 2-6 mm free play, so I left it alone. Now, your vid gives me yet one more area of improvement to concentrate on. Thank you! Additionally concentrating on front wheel braking while slowing down in tight curves….feeling that contact patch getting larger and more effective. Especially easy to feel with 2 or 3 or 4 PSI lower and softer than spec. Loving that! Parking lot practice next…! ❤
EXCELLENT WELL EXPLAINED ! In my opinion the best instructional video because a thorough explantion is followed by practical practice tips. Thank you and Best Cheers !
SUPER HELPFUL VIDEO!! I've been facing this issue on my Adventure bike and the jerk is amplified because of the suspension setup.
i'm using a small displacement single cylinder bike ( 150cc) and this is really helpful since i think single cylinder bike kinda more jerky
People are saying the 390 needs an ECU to fix the jerkiness in 1st and 2nd gear.
Then people say the ECU _can_ invalidate your insurance, and it's a hefty sum of money too.
Nobody told me it's a skill issue before now. Thanks!
Privet Andrey, thanks so much for another interesting video. I'm new to motorbiking and I'm experiencing this problem with my 125cc bike, which is very jerky in 1st and also in 2nd gear. I'm going to try out this technique soon.
Huh, you made me realize I was doing this unconsciously already, cause I’ve noticed if I don’t quite close the throttle the engine braking isn’t as strong. So I want to practice this more consciously and see if I can develop my skills more!
Nice, will try that technique. Thanks for the great content, as always
Update: I tried it on my ride to work earlier, i realized that i've been doing that all along, just not conscious about it or what it's called. 😁
대단히 감사합니다.ㅎ
얼마전에 아무런 사고 없이
원돌기 성공했습니다.ㅎ
너무 고맙습니다.ㅎ
The reason why the Duke has jerky issues is because of BS6 emissions, You can fix it with a O2 sensor mod like the RapidBike Easy or other ECUs.
Thank you for this! I have a Kawasaki Vulcan S and it is very jerky. People said to buy the booster plug but I chose not to because I heard mixed opinions about it’s negative effect on speed. So I just really slowly open the throttle but sometimes I don’t feel like opening it that slowly and it jerks. Especially during Uturns, I want to open it faster and it jerks several times during the Uturn. I will try this, thanks again.
Hi! This technique is usually used for a bit faster speeds, than U-turns, for smooth U-turns I still prefer "friction zone" technique:)
it will make ur mpg 25 instead of 50... trust me. i have mine off
Try shifting up a gear
@@kindafitsam9246 ahaha
I have never had a problem riding motorcycles smoothly until I recently purchased a new 2024 motorcycle. The throttle feels extra jerky. I suddenly feel like I'm learning all over again!
Emission standards
I agree, I've had 30 bikes over the last 28 years and only my Ninja 650 2023 model, has had such an annoyingly jerky throttle
nice advice. my ducati scrambler is jerky at low speed i will try this
Could you make a video teaching the basic stuff of bikes in general . I am a 15 year old student from India and love automobiles in general and was always confused about different bike or car related things. And my favourite category of bikes is adventure tourers and BMW 1250 GSA is my favourite bike.
Will do it eventually!
@@MotoControlEn Ok thanks mate
One tip from my side brother.
When you sit as a pillion from now on, close your eyes and focus on the sound of the bike, and slowly try to connect every action taken by the rider with how it affects the sound. Later when you will start riding on your own, this will help you out make bike riding your instinct and muscle memory, and hence you will have all the freedom to focus on the road and view ahead.
Moto C: To take up the slack dragging brakes fixes that mostly.
My question:
If I could achieve perfect full Throttle AND Front brake control using only my right handL Is there any advantage stability wise to use the front brake instead of the rear during low speed tight turns? It would seem that front brake would give more uplifting force since the two tire rotation directions and contact patches are not aligned and could provide some interesting effects if mastered.
Would seem there could be an advantage to swapping levers (Clutch Right, Front Brake left) which would give more independant control of throttle, clutch, Front Brake, and Rear Brake.
классный совет, санкс! =)
олсо у евро4 катыма можно было починить AFR путем втыкания копеешного резистора вместо о2 сенсора, а в евро5 уже ECU в лупе чекает, и только замена головного, а это 400 евро, все эндуристы 690 страдают на низах из-за евробюрократов, не делающих различий между чадящей клеткой и крошечным моточком -_-
мне кажется можно "холостых" добавить уже к ручке, точно так же добавив сопротивления
I'll give this a try. I thought it was mainly my throttle game and an older bike. But the technique seems to be build momentum into the turn, lean and coast, then accelerate out.
Your tips and explanations are always welcome. Adios!!!
This guy is very good👍keep up the good work thanks for all the video
2:05 it isn't minor when you are at the limits of the traction. Let's say, in maximum lean and/or in wet road. You risk.
Totally agree
Very informative thank you
another great vid. iv noticed on new my R7 from 2nd gear when i open throttle goin slow
Even worse with my gold wing DCT because no friction zone. You might have just saved me from selling the bike. 😅
GYMKHANA Rider don't use clutch either....!!!!
I want to learn it...
Riding such speed and turning tight corners...without NO JERKS ... WITHOUT NO CLUTCH...it sounds SO PROFESSIONAL...!!!!!
😃😃😃
It took me months to get used to the throttle jerkiness, for instance, when going from off-throttle to on-throttle in a tight turn. At first, I used to use the friction zone to smoothen this out, but then other riders told me that it is bad to use the clutch in a turn (I don't really know why this is bad, smooth is always good, right?). My throttle-hand has gotten more precise over time, so I need to don't need to use the clutch-hand as often to smoothen things out, but I still occasionally do that.
It's very bad/dangerous to use clutch in turning because it cuts engine power to rear wheel. Engine power or spinning rear wheel is what makes bike stable or stand straight. Also putting clutch means you can't accelerat or break quickly. All these things make it better to no clutch in turn and usually no no brake in turn or you hit ground. Use trail braking aka brake slowly/trailing the 1st brake before turn, use this instead of clutch to slow/smoothen in turn
@@maomekat2369 It’s not dangerous to do any of these things. Bikes don’t easily fall if we ride smoothly.
from what i found, things we can do to maybe solve this issue is: verify idle control valve and throttle body, givr these a good clean,check tps and map sensors. 2nd verify spark plugs. 3rd verify the chain tension, and verify the throttle dead spot.
.
.
.
.
.
ultimately : GET RID OF THAT JUNK BIKE 😂 and get yourself a 4 cylinder japanese bike 😍👌
I could do with some of these videos but for DCT bikes, that have no clutch control on the handlebar. I'm told the rear brake drag is the way, but I wouldn't mind seeing it, with the controls narrated.
Ahhhh, this is the beggining to moto gymkhana! tY!!! That is how they don't stall or jerk in slow turns!!!
ok, now how to fix the problem itself rather than cope with it. what i do is press clutch lever (depress actual clutch (disengaging clutch) ), give a twist gas, depress clutch lever slowly (pressing the clutch plates each others ( engaging clutch) ). and when releasing throttle (to no have the jerkiness from releasing (assuming there is jerkiness from applying throttle, that i covered the solution in the first part with the clutch. and second type of jerkiness when you release throttle)) i do it slowly. but why does it do that ?
mt 07 has it to but i like it i can ride smooth on it but have fun making the engine jerk
Do you use the brake at all whilst riding those circles or doing those evasive movements or do you pull in the clutch to go sloweR?
What if the motorcycle is new and the clutch is smooth and it works great, then it goes in for the first service at 600 miles, and the clutch hops in first gear until you let it out all the way?
The clutch works good in second, third, forth, fifth, and sixth.
How do you have so much grip in that wet car park?! I do a lot of rain riding but don’t have any confidence in my grip
Just being smooth. Plus good tires😁
@@MotoControlEn what tires?
@@420Sean69 Usually I use Mitas Sportforce+
Sticky rubber Ben. If you can, feel a trials bikes tyres. They're like pencil eraser sticky. Or hard terrain knobbies vs soft terrain knobbies. The stickier, the grippier.
@@redtobertshateshandles I see 👀 I associate sticky rubber with, I guess, dry, track focused tyres? I guess a good set of all weather tyres from a reputable brand would be appropriate?
Excellent
What about while shifting gear. would it be ok to keep little throttle open while shifting gears .without using the friction zone too much
What about just slipping the clutch a little when accelerating to smooth the transition out from off to on throttle instead?
It's ok on very slow speeds, but if you try to do it on a higher speed while leaning if you make a mistake and release the clutch a bit too fast - you can slide the rear wheel and lowside or highside, depending on situation. That's why normally it's advised to always stay in gear while cornering and do all shifting before the turn. Unless it's a very gentle corner, where your bike is almost upright.
Can you please do a video how to control clutch in a very heavy traffic? My city has almost all day heavy traffic and is hilly area, also I have Duke 250 and i have to keep using half clutch all the time which i think will degrade the life of the clutch plates too quickly
Here is a vid about how to save your clutch when riding in friction zone: ruclips.net/video/2fUA8kv1rGs/видео.html And eventually I'll make a video about riding in a city, but you are right about clutch - it's the key for slow riding!
@@MotoControlEn thank you, also just to let you know, I watch this exact video of yours when i first owned a bike. Nevertheless, I will be looking forward for your new video cause I really need ways to save the clutch as much as possible as I have to use the clutch way too much
You will wear out something, no matter what. Unfortunately, you will wear out rear brakes faster if you like using that, or the clutch, if you are using that. Get a scooter, at least you only wear out your tires :D Life of City riding is a story of wear and tear, even cars who only go on highways last longer than cars driven in the city..............
mostly feel chain slack when doing slides - new e motorcycle has counter shaft on swing arm center line - can run chain much less slack - much better
I noticed that too for e-motorcycles. I had a maxi scooter Tmax that was made that way also.
Have question. Rear brake and throotle can be overlaped? Thz
thanks
trail braking with rear brake while cornering
I see! You mean you need to maintain the tension in the chain, don´t you?
Simples 👍
Hola muchachos!
Or maybe they is a vacuum leak that is leaning out the mixture
what helmet is that?
👍
IMO, the 'jerky' engine, the transition from closed to open throttle, is because of crap fueling calibration. Simple fact. Manufacturers just can not calibrate low speed/rev/throttle, or can not be bothered. Incompetence or indifference. Both are unacceptable.
I have ridden may bikes over the years, Japanese & European and the only manufacturer that comes close to perfecting their fueling with little to no jerkiness is BMW.
The number of bike reviews i have read over the years where a comment about the jerky throttle has been made, highlighting a 'problem' amongst the glowing accolades, is few. Don't bite the hand that feeds you.
But i ride many bikes where the jerky throttle was never mentioned by a reviewer, but it is blatantly apparent there is a problem.
Maybe these reviewers are so ham-fisted or insensitive they never notice.
There are also mechanical reasons why engines can be jerky, including poor chain and/or throttle cable adjustment.
Most of the jerky engines i have experienced are fuel injected. KTM, Yamaha and Honda are good (bad?) examples of jerky engines and i don't buy them as a result.
Why do u speak mph?
Because the majority of the viewers are from US and UK, and they have imperial system.