Nice video. Since the vehicle is so wide and you have to do a bunch of leaning a stretching against the fenders, you might want to pick up a cheap moving blanket to drape over the sides so your shirt buttons and belt buckle don't scratch up your paint job.
You are dead on right with this suggestion. I had a blanket all ready to go but once I got into the job using my small step stool and knee up on the fender plate I didn't use it. If I were a bit taller and didn't need the stool I would use one for sure. Actually afterward I thought I should have put it on regardless as just dropping a tool might have hit paint. Great suggestion and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Keep that cap for oil in the hole but crack open. It is unsafe moving tools around that open hole. Imagine if socket will drop there or something. Keep it safe 😂. Good tutorial. Thank you
Good insight, thanks for sharing. Fortunately I have never had that happen but you are right, it could definitely ruin your day! Thanks for dropping by the channel.
Great video. I think it's smart to do the oil change yourself so you get to know your vehicle (e.g. the additional oil at the end). Also, I like that you pointed out the transmission oil plug...because...I may or may not have drained transmission fluid the first time I changed oil myself when I was a teenager. My famous quote from that experience: "Why is the engine oil red???" Keep up the GREAT content!
Hahaha-great story and so relevant. Thanks for watching. I finding doing your own oil changes forces you to get under the vehicle and have a good look around to see if anything looks amiss so something I do. I really like the 4x4s that I have because they do't require the use of the ramps!
This is fantastic!!! Thanks for you efforts and do consider making future videos on other maintenance how-to's like changing the air-filter, transmission oil, diff oil....etc). 👍
From a uk mechanic I can confirm this oil filter is about a 4 out of 10. Those who know, It's normal for European vehicles to put routine service components in awful places, mainly because our vehicles are smaller and manufacturers use the same engine across many different models and most don't relocate the oil filter housing despite this being easy to do. I like the grenadier idea. But I thought the whole purpose of it was farmers can maintain the whole thing with absolute ease. If I showed any farmer this they would scoff at the very least. I myself know full well it's normal awkwardness, infact there are more awkward cars, there are also a lot sensibly in your face when you open the bonnet. Even mechanics want ease. If I had a grenadier I would set myself a little project and be machining something and getting it remote right in your face. Especially as I maintain my vehicles more often than the recommended intervals, which are set in favour of strict European manufacturer oil pollutant legislation & 3 year service costs and certainly not in favour of your engine longevity lasting over 5 years. Have bmw fixed the B58 oil pump issues from c2020 or playing ignorance as usual?
At the end of the day not nearly as bad as it first looked but certainly could have been in a much more convenient location! I am not familiar with the oil pump issue, only a passing reference a few years ago to cold weather. As a mechanic how often do you change your oil?
I just finished the first oil change on my Trialmaster. Pretty stress free thanks to your video. I put back in exactly 7 liters and the computer says OK. I’ll check it again after driving it a few more miles. Ordered the eighth liter as you recommended, just in case.
This is a very comprehensive guide! thank you. There has been a lot of talk on the forums about using different weight oils so I am a little undecided. I want to use a ll-04 0w-30 but it looks like there is nothing wrong with using the 0w20 from oil analysis I have seen.
You are welcome. As far as oil grades I am certainly no oil scientist but I have never experienced any oil related problems in any of my vehicles in over 45 years of driving and doing self maintenance and always use factory recommended grade. My daughters Mazda uses 0-20 and has over 70k miles with no issues.
Well done for showing that and the information which goes with it. No dipstick? Seriously?!? All car manufacturers have a habit of making things really awkward to get to, probably to stop people like you and me from getting to them, although European ones are generally worst than most. I'm amazed that the starter motor is so easy. The last one I did on a Vauxhall involved removing the front wheel, putting several extension bars together, so it was about four feet long and trying to get to a 13mm bolt that was impossible to get to, without removing the cylinder head... I do miss old cars with small engines in big engine bays. And to think I used to complain. 😂
Good job. I'm going to change mine early. We're not allowed wing protectors in Europe including here in the UK, but I'm going to fit them, although I'd prefer not to source from ebay. All to do with pedestrian protection.
Absolutely enjoy your channel! I only found it today after looking at tons of the same Ineos channels with the same worthless content. I have owned at least six Jeeps over the years and have been considering the Ineos Grenadier Trial Master. My only worry is that I'll get in nowhere Moab, which will break down with no parts available. Your Baha trip put me at ease on that point.
Well to update you after towing the Grenadier to San Diego it is still out there. It took quite a while and the help of INEOS to get the fuel pump and transfer case faults cleared and now the body work requires all manual inputs because the parts and process are not computerized yet. The positive thing (if you can call it that) is that it all seems to have been caused by the damage from getting backed into.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 Wow! Talk about crying in the mud! Your reply makes me rethink my buying decision. I live in St. George, Utah; the closest dealer is SLC. I've owned many jeeps to the point that I don't want another. In addition, with Stalantis on the ropes, there is a better time to buy something from them. When I got an email regarding your post, I thought, hot damn, he's back. No such luck. I hope you are feeling better.
Consider adding a quart of new oil after draining to help remove/flush as much old oil as possible. Then add the drain plug and fill with fresh motor oil. Further, along with removing the oil cap, you can also unscrew the oil filter, but not remove yet (before removing the oil drain plug), to assist in oil flow out the oil drain. This will also allow the old filter to drain before removing and not drip oil on the engine.
BMW engines are notorious for having multiple major plastic components that perish and get brittle with age and heat. Not at all simple or cheap to maintain and repair long term. Some of the plastic is obvious. Another issue, which I think has been carried over to the current model, is that the oil is routed through the alternator mounting bracket and it has a cheap gasket that again hardens and cracks with age and gets to leak. Lots of plastic coolant and fuel lines and vacuum lines and adapters as well. All great when new but five or ten years later they test one’s patience.
I would have thought the grenadier would do a topside oil change because of the topside filter on the b58. I wonder if someone will make a custom tool for that filter location.
It would be nice to have some sort of spanner made for it but after all is said and done it really was not that hard to get to, only limited the stroke on each turn of the ratchet and would still need to get in there for the torque wrench I guess. Great idea and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Good point, thanks for the insight as not that common to have them in such close proximity. I appreciate the comment and your checking out the channel!
My oil filter cap/carrier was incredibly hard to free up and remained that hard to remove until it was all the way off. I don't know if it was cross threaded from the factory but it was very tight. Was yours easier?
@@AwestinTX Sorry to hear you had some issues. If I recall I did use the wrench the whole time to take it off but it went back on fine (no feeling of the threads being damaged) so not sure. I would think damaged threads would have caused a leak but I am not sure.
I have read there is a hidden dipstick on these somewhere but seems a lot of cars are going this route, I hear it is for emissions but don't really know. I believe plastic valve covers are much more common in newer cars but yes, lots of plastic here. I appreciate you dropping by.
I didn't as this was not the official 1 year oil change interval. I changed the oil after the initial break in period for the engine but will definitely change the axles when the time comes.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 my manual says at 12,000 miles the differential fluid should be changed. I also called the dealership and they confirmed. I thought it seemed weird to be changing the differential fluid that soon. I did my oil change tonight, I was expecting to have to put about 8 quarts in, but I put 7 in and ran the engine until operating temperature, expecting to get the warning light telling me that I needed more oil, but it never happened. Guess we’ll see how it goes!
@@j0shll0yd Just run the oil level check function on the computer to confirm the oil level is good and you should be fine. I would not rely on a warning light.
The oil change I did was an initial break-in oil change so I did not attempt to reset the computer. For warranty reasons I intend to have the dealership do the annual while under warranty. From what I understand from the Grenadier Forum is that a way for individuals to reset the oil life is not known at this point.
I didn't reset it. Since it was not done at the regular yearly schedule I left it so that it would continue to count down. Until is it is out of warranty I will take to dealer for the annual service.
Ya, seems to be standard placement on the B58 in BMWs but would have been nice to see some plumbing to relocate it to one of the spare spaces along the fender. That is what they did in my old 540 and it was super easy. I appreciate the comment.
Ya, the application probably makes a huge difference. On my old 540 it was plumbed right up to the front right side of the engine bay-total genius for ease!
Cross engineering. They install an engine already designed that work for the Ineos. It was not a new engine for the Ineos. I have seen borderline insane stuff. That is quite simple. I wpnder if that vehicle had skid plates
As Carlos mentioned below it is the standard location for the BMW engine that INEOS chose to use. At least they gave enough room between engine and body to get your hands in there and turn the ratchet but the front of the motor would certainly be easier-that is where Jeep puts theirs on the 3.6. Thanks for watching!
Easy enough to relocate the filter, this is supposed to be an African safari capable car, can you imagine being stuck out there and having to deal with that filter?@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609
Thanks for the video. This is a perfect example of why RUclips is terrific…good people like you providing great information. Hats off to you.
I must say this is one of the greatest comments I have gotten! Thanks for checking out the channel and the comment.
Nice video. Since the vehicle is so wide and you have to do a bunch of leaning a stretching against the fenders, you might want to pick up a cheap moving blanket to drape over the sides so your shirt buttons and belt buckle don't scratch up your paint job.
You are dead on right with this suggestion. I had a blanket all ready to go but once I got into the job using my small step stool and knee up on the fender plate I didn't use it. If I were a bit taller and didn't need the stool I would use one for sure.
Actually afterward I thought I should have put it on regardless as just dropping a tool might have hit paint.
Great suggestion and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Well done. I need to go back an catch your new vehicle experience from the beginning.
Great info here for Grenadier owners.
Keep that cap for oil in the hole but crack open. It is unsafe moving tools around that open hole. Imagine if socket will drop there or something. Keep it safe 😂. Good tutorial. Thank you
Good insight, thanks for sharing. Fortunately I have never had that happen but you are right, it could definitely ruin your day! Thanks for dropping by the channel.
Great video. I think it's smart to do the oil change yourself so you get to know your vehicle (e.g. the additional oil at the end). Also, I like that you pointed out the transmission oil plug...because...I may or may not have drained transmission fluid the first time I changed oil myself when I was a teenager. My famous quote from that experience: "Why is the engine oil red???" Keep up the GREAT content!
Hahaha-great story and so relevant. Thanks for watching. I finding doing your own oil changes forces you to get under the vehicle and have a good look around to see if anything looks amiss so something I do. I really like the 4x4s that I have because they do't require the use of the ramps!
This is fantastic!!! Thanks for you efforts and do consider making future videos on other maintenance how-to's like changing the air-filter, transmission oil, diff oil....etc). 👍
Thanks for dropping by and sure I am happy to film those things when I do them.
From a uk mechanic I can confirm this oil filter is about a 4 out of 10. Those who know, It's normal for European vehicles to put routine service components in awful places, mainly because our vehicles are smaller and manufacturers use the same engine across many different models and most don't relocate the oil filter housing despite this being easy to do. I like the grenadier idea. But I thought the whole purpose of it was farmers can maintain the whole thing with absolute ease. If I showed any farmer this they would scoff at the very least. I myself know full well it's normal awkwardness, infact there are more awkward cars, there are also a lot sensibly in your face when you open the bonnet. Even mechanics want ease. If I had a grenadier I would set myself a little project and be machining something and getting it remote right in your face. Especially as I maintain my vehicles more often than the recommended intervals, which are set in favour of strict European manufacturer oil pollutant legislation & 3 year service costs and certainly not in favour of your engine longevity lasting over 5 years. Have bmw fixed the B58 oil pump issues from c2020 or playing ignorance as usual?
At the end of the day not nearly as bad as it first looked but certainly could have been in a much more convenient location! I am not familiar with the oil pump issue, only a passing reference a few years ago to cold weather. As a mechanic how often do you change your oil?
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609Change at 5000 klm or 3000 mile intervals. Oil is cheap compared to the cost of the engine.
awesome video. I just changed the oil in mine using this video and it was very easy thanks to you
I appreciate the note and I am glad it was helpful!
Really well done and clear video. Very useful. Great plug for the Grenadier forum which is an invaluable resource.
Thank you.
The forum has so much information and I hope some people check it out and help keep it vibrant. Thanks for dropping by and checking out the channel!
I just finished the first oil change on my Trialmaster. Pretty stress free thanks to your video. I put back in exactly 7 liters and the computer says OK. I’ll check it again after driving it a few more miles. Ordered the eighth liter as you recommended, just in case.
I am glad it went smoothly for you and thanks for taking the time to write us!
This is a very comprehensive guide! thank you. There has been a lot of talk on the forums about using different weight oils so I am a little undecided. I want to use a ll-04 0w-30 but it looks like there is nothing wrong with using the 0w20 from oil analysis I have seen.
You are welcome. As far as oil grades I am certainly no oil scientist but I have never experienced any oil related problems in any of my vehicles in over 45 years of driving and doing self maintenance and always use factory recommended grade. My daughters Mazda uses 0-20 and has over 70k miles with no issues.
Well done for showing that and the information which goes with it. No dipstick? Seriously?!?
All car manufacturers have a habit of making things really awkward to get to, probably to stop people like you and me from getting to them, although European ones are generally worst than most. I'm amazed that the starter motor is so easy. The last one I did on a Vauxhall involved removing the front wheel, putting several extension bars together, so it was about four feet long and trying to get to a 13mm bolt that was impossible to get to, without removing the cylinder head... I do miss old cars with small engines in big engine bays. And to think I used to complain. 😂
Hahaha, as an American I miss the days of BIG engines and even BIGGER engine bays! Thanks for the great comment!
Good job. I'm going to change mine early. We're not allowed wing protectors in Europe including here in the UK, but I'm going to fit them, although I'd prefer not to source from ebay. All to do with pedestrian protection.
I was reading about that, too bad as they are a very functional item.
Absolutely enjoy your channel! I only found it today after looking at tons of the same Ineos channels with the same worthless content. I have owned at least six Jeeps over the years and have been considering the Ineos Grenadier Trial Master. My only worry is that I'll get in nowhere Moab, which will break down with no parts available. Your Baha trip put me at ease on that point.
Well to update you after towing the Grenadier to San Diego it is still out there. It took quite a while and the help of INEOS to get the fuel pump and transfer case faults cleared and now the body work requires all manual inputs because the parts and process are not computerized yet. The positive thing (if you can call it that) is that it all seems to have been caused by the damage from getting backed into.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 Wow! Talk about crying in the mud! Your reply makes me rethink my buying decision. I live in St. George, Utah; the closest dealer is SLC. I've owned many jeeps to the point that I don't want another. In addition, with Stalantis on the ropes, there is a better time to buy something from them. When I got an email regarding your post, I thought, hot damn, he's back. No such luck. I hope you are feeling better.
@@tdsmith The recovery is going right on schedule and we are talking about getting some videos out, not with the Grenadier but overlanding related.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 Excellent! All of your videos are informative and fun.
Consider adding a quart of new oil after draining to help remove/flush as much old oil as possible. Then add the drain plug and fill with fresh motor oil. Further, along with removing the oil cap, you can also unscrew the oil filter, but not remove yet (before removing the oil drain plug), to assist in oil flow out the oil drain. This will also allow the old filter to drain before removing and not drip oil on the engine.
Good suggestion. Thanks for dropping by and taking the time to offer your insight!
BMW engines are notorious for having multiple major plastic components that perish and get brittle with age and heat. Not at all simple or cheap to maintain and repair long term. Some of the plastic is obvious. Another issue, which I think has been carried over to the current model, is that the oil is routed through the alternator mounting bracket and it has a cheap gasket that again hardens and cracks with age and gets to leak. Lots of plastic coolant and fuel lines and vacuum lines and adapters as well. All great when new but five or ten years later they test one’s patience.
That is why I gave up on my 540. Best new car I ever owned and worst car ever after 10 years-a real money pit. Fingers crossed on the B58!
I would have thought the grenadier would do a topside oil change because of the topside filter on the b58. I wonder if someone will make a custom tool for that filter location.
It would be nice to have some sort of spanner made for it but after all is said and done it really was not that hard to get to, only limited the stroke on each turn of the ratchet and would still need to get in there for the torque wrench I guess. Great idea and thanks for taking the time to comment!
That was nicely done thank you!🎉
I am glad you liked it, thanks for dropping by.
That looks slightly easier to do than my defender. I have to remove 3 heavy skid plates to access the drain plug
I have to remove a plate to change the oil in my Raptor and it definitely adds time and effort to the job! Thanks for dropping by.
Please be careful with bare socket wrench handles as the starter motor terminals are LIVE and the sump plug is earth .
Good point, thanks for the insight as not that common to have them in such close proximity. I appreciate the comment and your checking out the channel!
My oil filter cap/carrier was incredibly hard to free up and remained that hard to remove until it was all the way off. I don't know if it was cross threaded from the factory but it was very tight. Was yours easier?
@@AwestinTX Sorry to hear you had some issues. If I recall I did use the wrench the whole time to take it off but it went back on fine (no feeling of the threads being damaged) so not sure. I would think damaged threads would have caused a leak but I am not sure.
Can you drop the name of which Grenadier forum you you referred to please. Thank you for the video.
The INEOS Forum. You can find it here www.theineosforum.com
Thanks for sharing. This engine has plastic valve covers?! And no physical dipstick?! Oy!
I have read there is a hidden dipstick on these somewhere but seems a lot of cars are going this route, I hear it is for emissions but don't really know. I believe plastic valve covers are much more common in newer cars but yes, lots of plastic here. I appreciate you dropping by.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 I think that I remember there is a hidden dipstick on the diesel B57 and not on the gas B58.
The manual says to also replace the axel oil at the first oil change (12,000 miles). Did you do that?
I didn't as this was not the official 1 year oil change interval. I changed the oil after the initial break in period for the engine but will definitely change the axles when the time comes.
@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609 my manual says at 12,000 miles the differential fluid should be changed. I also called the dealership and they confirmed. I thought it seemed weird to be changing the differential fluid that soon.
I did my oil change tonight, I was expecting to have to put about 8 quarts in, but I put 7 in and ran the engine until operating temperature, expecting to get the warning light telling me that I needed more oil, but it never happened. Guess we’ll see how it goes!
@@j0shll0yd Just run the oil level check function on the computer to confirm the oil level is good and you should be fine. I would not rely on a warning light.
nice car ineos grenadiers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🚙🚙🚙🚙🚙🚙👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hello, how do I reset the computer when I have drained the oil? Thank you
The oil change I did was an initial break-in oil change so I did not attempt to reset the computer. For warranty reasons I intend to have the dealership do the annual while under warranty. From what I understand from the Grenadier Forum is that a way for individuals to reset the oil life is not known at this point.
It is a 7 liters .. this is the 2nd time I change it ..
How did you reset the oil interval?
I didn't reset it. Since it was not done at the regular yearly schedule I left it so that it would continue to count down. Until is it is out of warranty I will take to dealer for the annual service.
Hi, is your grenadier diesel engine or gasoline ?
@@luigi3880 It is gasoline.
I’m curious as to why your changing the oil at 1100 miles?
It was a one time early oil change to replace the initial break in oil.
Done with minimal swearing! 😃
And that is saying a lot!
Ridiculous spot for the oil filter housing. Obviously the BMW and Ineos engineers didn’t fully communicate on that one.
Ya, seems to be standard placement on the B58 in BMWs but would have been nice to see some plumbing to relocate it to one of the spare spaces along the fender. That is what they did in my old 540 and it was super easy. I appreciate the comment.
Yeah my 340i was a lot easier to access
Ya, the application probably makes a huge difference. On my old 540 it was plumbed right up to the front right side of the engine bay-total genius for ease!
Why are you killing your self trying to stretch to the oil filter housing,,,,Use another extension on the wrench,,
I found it much easier to get under it without extensions, might not be everyone's experience but for me it just worked better.
great info - glad I won't be buying one of these!!
Hahaha, I hope you are not buying one just because of the oil filter location!
WTF kind of engineering is this?
Cross engineering. They install an engine already designed that work for the Ineos. It was not a new engine for the Ineos. I have seen borderline insane stuff. That is quite simple. I wpnder if that vehicle had skid plates
As Carlos mentioned below it is the standard location for the BMW engine that INEOS chose to use. At least they gave enough room between engine and body to get your hands in there and turn the ratchet but the front of the motor would certainly be easier-that is where Jeep puts theirs on the 3.6. Thanks for watching!
Easy enough to relocate the filter, this is supposed to be an African safari capable car, can you imagine being stuck out there and having to deal with that filter?@@dickinaroundoutdoors8609