Yes, I have sold 4 bikes and bought some too, but I think you could of have went a bit more indebt about properly checking the bearings and everything's that's not supposed to move. For example how much knock is okay and how does it actually feel like, even for me who worked on my bikes multiple times and rebuild a couple of them this is way too fast for a beginner to understand what to actually look for when buying a bike. For example all seatposts that are adjustable have some play in them otherwise they wouldn't function properly. I really think that about 15 to 20 minutes is more then enough to explain everything properly. Pleas don't take this at the negative note, I find you're making an excellent work, but the small details are that matter, at least in my opinion.
All the time most have not been ridden my latest is a 2008 Ibex ignition full suspension mountain bike it was brand new for 300 dollars outstanding bike lots of retro mountain bikes with low or no miles
Bought a few secondhand mtbs, definitely a mix of experiences, good and bad. Worse experience: bought a bike for my son - crack in downtube had been very deliberately hidden, I demanded my money back from the seller, all ok in the end but I was annoyed with myself for not spotting it. Its becoming increasing difficult to justify buying anything less than near-perfect secondhand as replacement parts are still ridiculously expensive, whilst discounts on new bikes are so big.
I bought a secondhand mtb a few weeks ago. Specialized Rcokhopper. Was a very smooth buy, because the buyer had not lied one word about being it brand new. He had only ridden it once and he had bought it brand new. So that was a nice and lucky buy....and it turned out the guy who sold it lived 5 minutes from my house, so I didn't have to drive to pick it up.
Didn't want to pay the price for a new gravel bike so I bought an older cyclocross bike, purchased a second hand 26er full suspension all mountain 160mm travel bike for jump lines at Duthie Bike Park, saved lots of money buying the cyclocross, they don't make anything full suspension similar to a dirt jump bike in a 26er that I could see to learn with, so, I bought the all mountain size large160mm travel 26er bike. I'd just add check all critical bolt tightness including pedals, stem, wheel axle bolts and spoke tightness before heading out on the first ride but all major purchase checks seemed really very good, well done!
I love buying used bikes. Repairing any possible problems is a joy. Recently I found a 2017 specialized camber for $350, and will hopefully be able to give it the love it deserves.
Also found it helpful and a $$$ saver to test suspension compression/lockout/firm levers for proper function. If not working properly that can be an expensive cartridge service. Carrying a chain checker tool when test riding can keep sellers honest on drivetrain wear. Bought a couple of duds before learning some of these tips. Great presentation! 😊
Step 1 show them the companys website that has the bike new with better spec at half the price they are asking. Step 2 bash the short sighted bike industry's choices.
I've gotten screwed with two second hand cracked frames but I've also gotten gems! Just be careful as hell when it's a good price there's usually a reason
Great guide! I've bought and sold 100's of bike and one thing i would say that you haven't said is wiggle the cranks to check for play in the bottom bracket, if it does you can get some money off from the seller and quite a few times I've found that it only requires tightening up!
Thanks Anna! This video should make me feel empowered, but it actually makes me more nervous about buying a second hand bike since I’m not mechanically inclined.
As a bike mechanic, can tell you that never believe words of seller that bike us "fully serviced" unless workshop proves it or owner has service papers somehow. Some people think that wiping stanchions and lubing chain is a maintenance. Always get your new bike to the workshop you trust for complete teardown.
Always. ALWAYS! Ask for specific pics. I’ve even gone as far as a specific pic with the seller holding a card with my name or flipping me off. If they won’t ; it’s a scam. End of story. Also. Specially on PB. Look how long the seller has had an account. Chances are if it’s a brand new account with no sales it’s most likely a scam.
I’m about to sell my full suss e-bike and I would always be honest with a buyer as I’ve been in that position. I make sure every bike I’ve sold has been thoroughly cleaned and everything lubed, greased and working smoothly. Just be a good fellow biker! 🤘❤️🌈🕊️🌎
For carbon frames (even wheels/bars), what about gently squeezing the tubes or running your thumb along them, to feel for any possible hidden delamination? It should feel a bit soft compared to a structurally sound part.
If you have a carbon frame you really want to remove or at least move the seatpost. The aluminium can corrode to the carbon in a way that it will be near impossible to remove. I learned the hard way, took me 2 days of removing the old seatpost piece by piece in order to not destroy the frame....
It's all down to time/risk, the welding process weakens the frame meaning it would need heat treating again. This can cause problems in itself, the main one being the frame could warp. So most people avoid it as its quicker/less risk to buy a new frame.
As they said above the welding is kind of risky, buuuttt if it's on a place where nothing significant is mounted (forks, shocks any kind of bearings). Welding introduces warpage into the metal doesn't matter how good the welder is.
It depends on the alloy. If the frame is made from 6061 it needs a heat treatment after a welding. If it's 7005 you can store it for 3 months after welding and it gets the same strength as before. 7005 was specially developed to avoid a heat treatment, the frames hardened during assembly and transport in the container.
Just be careful. I got mine and it was an amazing deal but it wasn't assembled correctly and they damaged the transmission bolt. Warranty claim has been back and forth for weeks. They are sending me new parts but I got tired of waiting on them and bought my own parts. Still a great deal though.
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Eminem - Temporary (feat. Skylar Grey) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZaK9Wi5ho0o/mqdefault.jpg)
Have you ever bought or sold a mountain bike? How did it go?
Yes, I have sold 4 bikes and bought some too, but I think you could of have went a bit more indebt about properly checking the bearings and everything's that's not supposed to move. For example how much knock is okay and how does it actually feel like, even for me who worked on my bikes multiple times and rebuild a couple of them this is way too fast for a beginner to understand what to actually look for when buying a bike.
For example all seatposts that are adjustable have some play in them otherwise they wouldn't function properly.
I really think that about 15 to 20 minutes is more then enough to explain everything properly.
Pleas don't take this at the negative note, I find you're making an excellent work, but the small details are that matter, at least in my opinion.
All the time most have not been ridden my latest is a 2008 Ibex ignition full suspension mountain bike it was brand new for 300 dollars outstanding bike lots of retro mountain bikes with low or no miles
Bought a few secondhand mtbs, definitely a mix of experiences, good and bad. Worse experience: bought a bike for my son - crack in downtube had been very deliberately hidden, I demanded my money back from the seller, all ok in the end but I was annoyed with myself for not spotting it. Its becoming increasing difficult to justify buying anything less than near-perfect secondhand as replacement parts are still ridiculously expensive, whilst discounts on new bikes are so big.
I bought a secondhand mtb a few weeks ago. Specialized Rcokhopper. Was a very smooth buy, because the buyer had not lied one word about being it brand new. He had only ridden it once and he had bought it brand new. So that was a nice and lucky buy....and it turned out the guy who sold it lived 5 minutes from my house, so I didn't have to drive to pick it up.
Didn't want to pay the price for a new gravel bike so I bought an older cyclocross bike, purchased a second hand 26er full suspension all mountain 160mm travel bike for jump lines at Duthie Bike Park, saved lots of money buying the cyclocross, they don't make anything full suspension similar to a dirt jump bike in a 26er that I could see to learn with, so, I bought the all mountain size large160mm travel 26er bike. I'd just add check all critical bolt tightness including pedals, stem, wheel axle bolts and spoke tightness before heading out on the first ride but all major purchase checks seemed really very good, well done!
I love buying used bikes. Repairing any possible problems is a joy. Recently I found a 2017 specialized camber for $350, and will hopefully be able to give it the love it deserves.
Also found it helpful and a $$$ saver to test suspension compression/lockout/firm levers for proper function. If not working properly that can be an expensive cartridge service. Carrying a chain checker tool when test riding can keep sellers honest on drivetrain wear. Bought a couple of duds before learning some of these tips. Great presentation! 😊
Good tips! Thanks for sharing 🤘
Step 1 show them the companys website that has the bike new with better spec at half the price they are asking. Step 2 bash the short sighted bike industry's choices.
I've gotten screwed with two second hand cracked frames but I've also gotten gems! Just be careful as hell when it's a good price there's usually a reason
Great guide! I've bought and sold 100's of bike and one thing i would say that you haven't said is wiggle the cranks to check for play in the bottom bracket, if it does you can get some money off from the seller and quite a few times I've found that it only requires tightening up!
Also check:
Headset
Bottom bracket
Chain wear
Great video Anna. I'm actually using it to do a check over of my hardtail. I have been deliquent on maintenance.
Really interesting video, I hope one day I can reach your quality 🔥🔥
Thanks Anna! This video should make me feel empowered, but it actually makes me more nervous about buying a second hand bike since I’m not mechanically inclined.
Jump in totally blind. It's a rite of passage & best way to learn!
As a bike mechanic, can tell you that never believe words of seller that bike us "fully serviced" unless workshop proves it or owner has service papers somehow. Some people think that wiping stanchions and lubing chain is a maintenance. Always get your new bike to the workshop you trust for complete teardown.
Always. ALWAYS! Ask for specific pics. I’ve even gone as far as a specific pic with the seller holding a card with my name or flipping me off. If they won’t ; it’s a scam. End of story. Also. Specially on PB. Look how long the seller has had an account. Chances are if it’s a brand new account with no sales it’s most likely a scam.
I’m about to sell my full suss e-bike and I would always be honest with a buyer as I’ve been in that position. I make sure every bike I’ve sold has been thoroughly cleaned and everything lubed, greased and working smoothly. Just be a good fellow biker! 🤘❤️🌈🕊️🌎
Brilliant. Really helpful - thanks Anna!
An excellent checklist Anna! Thanks.
For carbon frames (even wheels/bars), what about gently squeezing the tubes or running your thumb along them, to feel for any possible hidden delamination? It should feel a bit soft compared to a structurally sound part.
You missed a check😂 always check your spokes also
If you have a carbon frame you really want to remove or at least move the seatpost. The aluminium can corrode to the carbon in a way that it will be near impossible to remove. I learned the hard way, took me 2 days of removing the old seatpost piece by piece in order to not destroy the frame....
Why can't an aluminum frame be repaired? Can't it be rewelded?
It's all down to time/risk, the welding process weakens the frame meaning it would need heat treating again. This can cause problems in itself, the main one being the frame could warp. So most people avoid it as its quicker/less risk to buy a new frame.
As they said above the welding is kind of risky, buuuttt if it's on a place where nothing significant is mounted (forks, shocks any kind of bearings). Welding introduces warpage into the metal doesn't matter how good the welder is.
It depends on the alloy. If the frame is made from 6061 it needs a heat treatment after a welding.
If it's 7005 you can store it for 3 months after welding and it gets the same strength as before. 7005 was specially developed to avoid a heat treatment, the frames hardened during assembly and transport in the container.
You can tell right away how used a bike is look at the chain some have never been oiled bike had never been used
Pretty much skipped rear suspension. 😂
Chain stretch/wear
i just bought a used trek marlin 6 gen 2 for 150 dollars the bike is basically new
Theres never been a better bargain than the bikes going on CRC and WIGGLE....!!
Very true!
Just be careful. I got mine and it was an amazing deal but it wasn't assembled correctly and they damaged the transmission bolt. Warranty claim has been back and forth for weeks. They are sending me new parts but I got tired of waiting on them and bought my own parts. Still a great deal though.
Canyon bikes has the very best sales right now great bang for your buck and top notch quality bikes
Hi
Really nice rack… I need one to hold my bike…