Serrated is the way to go with this. It's just amazing in that format, outcuts even the best high carbide plain edge, while being incredibly tough AND a breeze to sharpen.
Back when i first got into knives about 8 years ago, my first knife was a spyderco in an H1 steel for some deep sea fishing in Florida. With really heavy use the knife is still a killer to this day. Love a good salt knife!
The problem with these EDC knife steel snobs, is that they have either forgotten or never learned about having the proper tool for a specific job. Some of them have seemed to even forget the fact that knives are tools and not just pokemon to collect and keep in boxes until they take them out for pictures in their living rooms. These knives are perfectly suited for what they were intended for. These knives are for divers and fishermen. Back when we could still abalone dive on the north coast here in CA, a knife made from H1 is perfect. It needs to be sharp enough to cut through fishing line or kelp and dispatch fish, then get thrown in a dive bag or a tackle box full of salt water and sand and left for days on end. Liners only provide a spot for sand and salt water to get into and never come out. The people who complain about the lack of edge retention can take their M4, k390, 15V and maxamet blades out on a fishing boat and cry when they get home and find that their knife is completely ruined. Knives are tools. They're made to do a job. Some jobs prioritize edge retention, some prioritize corrosion resistance. I wouldn't take this knife to break down boxes at the cardboard factory just like I wouldn't take a knife made out of M4 out on the boat. Don't pay attention to the reddit and youtube divas who have probably never left the city in their lives.
Brilliantly said! I have many knives and have been whittling down my collection to what I need for the job at hand. Hiking/outdoor? Benchmade Crooked River or Buck do great! Everyday carry? Spyderco PM2 or Benchmade 940. But for beach/lake trips? I always carry what my wife lovingly calls my “water knife”, and she knows I will ALWAYS have it on me. That is my Pacific Salt Full Blackout in H1. That knife has been to California, Texas, Hawaii (soon Greece), Lake Havasu and I let my nephew borrow it for his honeymoon in Costa Rica. He gave it back to me lovingly and said that it was one heck of a knife and he used it everyday (and lovingly put some character on the blade). I have to touch it up a little more often, but that edge gets crazy scary and I do notice the more I use/sharpen it, the less I have to touch up the edge. Kind of makes me question why I have that case full of 30 knives, when really 4-5 do just fine.
If you treat H1 right, it is actually pretty outstanding. By "treat right" I mean, drop the factory edge bevel down to ~12 ish ° per side or so, and sharpen it at a low grit, 300 grit diamond seems very good. Or for a range, around 260 gr - 325 gr (so, your DMT coarse/blue) - and with care, debur on the stone also. A guy over on the Spyderco forums who posts under the name "vivi", and I did a one month carry and use exclusively, last July with H1, like that. To say I was impressed would be accurate, if not understated. vivi already knew how it would do, as he'd been rocking it for a while already. He, vivi, did a thread on it too, in which we both posted our experience(s). Numerous others have done it since, and had the same experience. So, low grit & lowered edge bevel angle seems (from experience) to be a really excellent way to sharpen & maintain Spyderco's H1 folders. u.w.
That’s why I look forward to your vids because then I can look into different knives. I like watching you and a couple of others who use their knives. I don’t always use all my knives. But the ones I do use I need them to hold up.
Great blade. I own the pacific salt ( the some what bigger brother) I'm using mine for years and i find that after a few sharpenings the edge retention gets better ( I feel like the better steel reveals it self like the original machine sharpening burned the steel some what) I indeed think most knife channels mostly concentrate too much on reviewing as much knifes possible instead of using the thing for some longer time. I like H1, because of how crazy sharp I can get it. ( something most knife reviewers never discover after making three cuts in a piece of phone book paper and saying the steel is crap)
I have the serrated version, and it's one of my dedicated dive knives. Being H1, I don't need to look after it (much). I removed the clip, and attached a boltsnap to it. It's always on my BCD and really only used for cutting through large diameter ghost gear. For monofilament, smaller diameter ghost gear, and webbing I use a Trilobite Eezycut line cutter.
By the way, the RGT pocket clip is freaking awesome on my pasific salt 2, don't even feel the clip when i got the knife in hand. Don't know how it will work on the shorter salt knife though, but guessing it won't be that much different
H1 is amazingly tough, in that it bends like crazy rather than breaking… combined with the corrosion resistance, that makes for an awesome beater, like you said. Also, Spyderco’s testing has supposedly demonstrated that serrated H1 has longer edge retention than anything else they’ve tested. I’ll be really interested to see more of your testing on the plain edge, because it absolutely gets dumped on.
H1 sharpened at a 15 degrees per side (even lower) with low grit (600) holds an edge perfectly fine for EDC. Basically the same as VG10, and I've tested them for years. Extremely tough steel, never chips, touches up to hair popping sharp in 60 seconds. One of the most underrated steels that steel snobs dismiss because they just like the novelty of supersteels that hold an edge forever, but in turn can rust in 1 day of sweat in your pocket. Knives are tools, you dont use K390 near water just like you dont pick H1 to cut up cardboard for 8 hours per day. Need the right tool for the job, but as an all round indestructible zero maintenance EDC steel, H1 & LC200N finds itself in my pocket more than any of my supersteel knives. There's just something about them. Absolutely love the new Spyderco Stretch XL in H2, my favourite knife blade and handle profile ever.
Just got a stretch 2 XL in SE Whoever sharpened it from the factory did a shit job. Wouldn’t even cut paper when I received it. Worked on it on my sharp maker for 10 minutes and it’s g2g now.
I hope your birthday was awesome! Quick H1 anecdote: I remember Eric Glesser saying that H1 warps when you grind just one side at a time. So that's why this is a hollow grind. It's impossible to full flat grind both sides of a blade simultaneously.
My first proper folder was actually an H1 pacific salt. I used it lightly here & there as my work carry when I rarely needed it. It never got run your finger down it dull, but I did strop it (poorly) often. I stopped using it when I had to cut down a pallet cardboard bin for the trash compactor & it cut so poorly (which was likely my fault due to poor sharpening) that it spun in my hand & almost serrated my arm, which made me shy away from this model. Not the steel. Think the blade grind was just too thick for what I was trying to cut with it. I also have a Spyderco ARK which is in H1 steel & I used that for food & it always worked fine. Really wouldn't mind using the steel again, but I don't use my stuff hardly at all (as I don't have much to use them on often) & I'm sure someone who uses their stuff extremely would hyper fixate on the noticeable flaws of a knife/steel. I'm naturally a very asthetic-oriented person when it comes to knives, so I don't naturally flock to Spyderco even though I know they got fire Heat treatment, for the most part. But, on a semi-related note, the main reason I don't like Spyderco knives is because most of the customizable models have that hole clip point with the hump, & that hump is very unnatural for my awkward hands. If I was to get one, it would most-likely be a shaman in a DLC tool steel with DLC hardware. Not against Spyderco (really not a fan of the sprint run game though.)
I hope Spyderco sees your videos. They could hire you to be their steel tester, knife tester, whatever they need. You always have them as your test knives and they are great
I have a Spyderco Dragonfly salt 2. Had it for almost a year. One of my first Spyderco and I love it! It's one of my EDC and I heard the samthing about H1 how it suck and my Dad told me it suck cause he has a Spyderco salt and it would not keep an edge. Thanks they probably change the heat treatment on the H1 cuz his is an older model and mine is newer. Thank you for the good review and I like your content!💯💯💯
Love your content, very informative 👍👌👏👏. Thanks to your channel I am able to make informed decisions when it comes to knife purchases. Albeit, most of my knives are not used 😄😄. I do have a few that I use. I have purchased a Wicked Edge system and will start to experiment with sharpening. Thanks to your experience and advice 🙏🙏
The first spyderco I ever bought was a beat up salt1 from an old coworker for $25. I still have it but since I have lc200n knives now it never gets used.
I have tons of high carbide steels: Maxamet, k390, M4, 10V, etc and my H1 Pacific Salt is one of my most used knives. Edge retention is not stellar but H1 is VERY tough and can handle and benefit from a coarse low edge angle. Edge retention is not everything! Nice to see you finding the merits of the OG Salt steel ;)
@@Krusher_Knave I use DMT diamond stones (pretty much essential for vanadium rich steels) so sharpening is not much of a challenge. I find that the harder steels with high edge stability are easy to apex. Thus Maxamet is easiest followed by K390, then closely 10V then by M4. Toughness is pretty much the inverse of this list. K390 is really a sweet spot for toughness and edge stability relative to edge retention. I kind of think of K390 as a non stainless s90v analog. It has similar bite, slightly higher edge retention, and similar edge stability and toughness. In contrast H1 is easily sharpened with typical alumina oxide or ceramic stones. It is a tough steel but not super hard and lacking in carbide so blunts from abrasive wear quickly.
@@joshuabriggs7114 What sharpening set would you recommend I get for these steels (diamond with ceramic possibly followed by what strop?), as they are my most preferred?
My only experience with H1 is the little Ladybug serrated hawkbill. And I absolutely love it. I carry it often (it weighs nothing), and when I don't EDC it I keep it in a handy spot in my kitchen and use it to open food packages and poke holes in microwave and whatever. But when I do EDC it, I have to maintenance the non-serrated tip area pretty frequently. It only takes a few seconds to do that. And the serrations are easy to sharpen on the Spyderco Sharp Maker. It's a cool little knife to throw in an EDC, though I probably should've spent a little more and gotten the hawkbill dragonfly for a tougher pivot.
@@YaYa-ke1zr I use the corner of the white rods. 5 strokes on the serrated side, 1 stroke on the other side, repeat as needed. On the non-serrated side you're removing the burr. With the hawkbill you wanna slightly turn your wrist. People get worried the Sharpmaker will ruin the serrations, but it actually improves them because they become less snaggy. I've been sharpening a serrated kitchen knife like this for many years and it hasn't ruined the serrations. You wanna go slow and light and only use the fine rods. I do the tip area separately freehanded so I don't round that off. Then on a strop I use the corner of the strop to get into the serrations. There's a good video that shows that from someone named MrTomatoManJL. His video on the Manbug Salt. He uses a different triangular sharpening rod but it's how I do it except I have the angle set by the Sharpmaker.
I wonder if the black ‘salt’ clips are all going to the new process. The Native Salt and the Salt 2 have different black clips (by design). In other news, the Salt 2 hardware won’t fit Delica’s. The clip fits, screws don’t. At least not on mine. I had wanted to use the black screws for my lynch clips but NOPE.
I have three… all serrated blades. Dangerous sharp. I think serrated is ago to daily. I do a lot of kayak fishing, and use them because they are visible
I edc a salt 2 in h1 and a manix 2 light weight in cpm bd1n and the manix has a touch of surface rust in the cutting edge from an acid wash I did in a pool so started using my salt more after and it still doesn’t have a spot of rust in it I will say it’s for basic cutting and the ballade does get beat up fast
I could be wrong but I think you may be a little mixed up with what you’re calling the “new salt 2” and Spyderco’s upcoming salt series that will be featuring the new H2 steel because H1 is going out of production, which spyderco went way into detail about in their May SpydercoByte email, it’s worth the read for sure. The line of salt 2 knives have been around for quite some time though that said they did seem to update the clips across the board with the release of the LC200N Salt 2 series which has the powder coated clip and hardware.
Have been thinking about getting one of those a few times, but i already got 2 pasific salt 2's with longer blades, so every time i think about it, my mind goes: What's the point, it's the same knife with a shorter blade and handle, cutting tasks is much easier with a longer blade, and so on and so on😄
Batoning isn't a good way to test edge retention. It can test toughness somewhat (H1 actually has decent toughness, don't know who's saying it doesn't) but it's more about geometry and blade shape. Plus wood isn't abrasive. Cut up some cardboard or rope and that'll show how good wear resistance is. On a side note I hate the rep gas station knives give 440. 440(doesn't matter if its A, B or C) is a decent class steel and can perform really well with a decent heat treatment. I have a custom in 440B at 60-61hrc with cryo and its up there with my 154cm knives. You tell people its Sandvik or Aeb-l and they're salivating but tell them its 440(similar composition but with a bit more Cr for better corrosion resistance) and they turn their nose up.
@@ericasedc I've read plenty on the plain edge having poor edge retention (and serrated ones being just below super steels in performance) but I haven't seen much talk about low toughness. Then again I wasn't researching/looking for info about it plus there's Si many posts or videos everywhere. I'll look forward to your testing/results videos. Been really enjoying your head to head weekly and monthly bodies. Hope you and Nicole are doing ok.
I may be wrong but I seem to recall Spyderco saying that H1 would sharpen with use (correct me if I’m wrong). If that’s true that would explain why after some sharpening it would retain an edge better. That being said it is a specialty steel that was never meant for EDC for most people. I do think that if Spyderco did address the heat treat thus making the steel perform better they should be open about it.
I was carrying a blade in 440C for a while (before I lost it), all I ever heard from my coworkers the whole time I carried it is how bad 440 is. People think they know everything even if they haven't tried it. A stoutly ground 440A survival knife with a soft temper is not the same as a lightly tempered 440C hollow ground edc. Geometry and heat treat are more important than steel composition, and there's also this funny thing about knives... you can sharpen them.
I've heard that H1 work hardens (I think that's the proper term) from sharpening, and edge retention improves from that. I'm curious to see if you find that to be true.
People _really_ misunderstand what work hardening actually means. Sharpening, and even grinding don't cause work hardening. Work hardening is caused by changes in shape, like bending over and over.
It isn’t an edge retention test- it was just general testing to see what would happen. If the edge would completely crumble or not. Because no one has anything good to say about it. Like I stated in the video, it was a stupid and fun activity to just see what happens.
My H1 dragonfly dulled after a trip to the beach… where I cut open like bags of chips and food. I was shocked! Love it for the corrosion resistance but it definitely dulled so fast
Welp now they can quit whining cause there's LC200N and CPM MagnaCut. My old H1 Spyderedge Pacific Salt holds an edge plenty well, all I've ever needed is a green DMT serrated edge sharpener to touch it up. A film of Flitz on a Dremel SOFT cloth buff will clean it up if needed. The plain edge for me, not so much. Used it in the kitchen, same treatment. Spyderco white triangle stones to hone. Meat and veggies
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Serrated is the way to go with this. It's just amazing in that format, outcuts even the best high carbide plain edge, while being incredibly tough AND a breeze to sharpen.
That is very true. It’s because of the heat treating process on the H1 serrated.
Back when i first got into knives about 8 years ago, my first knife was a spyderco in an H1 steel for some deep sea fishing in Florida. With really heavy use the knife is still a killer to this day.
Love a good salt knife!
H1 tied magnacut and elmax in the first wave of my edge retention testing in the 800 grit group.
The problem with these EDC knife steel snobs, is that they have either forgotten or never learned about having the proper tool for a specific job. Some of them have seemed to even forget the fact that knives are tools and not just pokemon to collect and keep in boxes until they take them out for pictures in their living rooms.
These knives are perfectly suited for what they were intended for. These knives are for divers and fishermen. Back when we could still abalone dive on the north coast here in CA, a knife made from H1 is perfect. It needs to be sharp enough to cut through fishing line or kelp and dispatch fish, then get thrown in a dive bag or a tackle box full of salt water and sand and left for days on end. Liners only provide a spot for sand and salt water to get into and never come out.
The people who complain about the lack of edge retention can take their M4, k390, 15V and maxamet blades out on a fishing boat and cry when they get home and find that their knife is completely ruined. Knives are tools. They're made to do a job. Some jobs prioritize edge retention, some prioritize corrosion resistance. I wouldn't take this knife to break down boxes at the cardboard factory just like I wouldn't take a knife made out of M4 out on the boat. Don't pay attention to the reddit and youtube divas who have probably never left the city in their lives.
Brilliantly said! I have many knives and have been whittling down my collection to what I need for the job at hand. Hiking/outdoor? Benchmade Crooked River or Buck do great! Everyday carry? Spyderco PM2 or Benchmade 940. But for beach/lake trips? I always carry what my wife lovingly calls my “water knife”, and she knows I will ALWAYS have it on me. That is my Pacific Salt Full Blackout in H1. That knife has been to California, Texas, Hawaii (soon Greece), Lake Havasu and I let my nephew borrow it for his honeymoon in Costa Rica. He gave it back to me lovingly and said that it was one heck of a knife and he used it everyday (and lovingly put some character on the blade). I have to touch it up a little more often, but that edge gets crazy scary and I do notice the more I use/sharpen it, the less I have to touch up the edge. Kind of makes me question why I have that case full of 30 knives, when really 4-5 do just fine.
If you treat H1 right, it is actually pretty outstanding. By "treat right" I mean, drop the factory edge bevel down to ~12 ish ° per side or so, and sharpen it at a low grit, 300 grit diamond seems very good. Or for a range, around 260 gr - 325 gr (so, your DMT coarse/blue) - and with care, debur on the stone also.
A guy over on the Spyderco forums who posts under the name "vivi", and I did a one month carry and use exclusively, last July with H1, like that. To say I was impressed would be accurate, if not understated. vivi already knew how it would do, as he'd been rocking it for a while already.
He, vivi, did a thread on it too, in which we both posted our experience(s). Numerous others have done it since, and had the same experience.
So, low grit & lowered edge bevel angle seems (from experience) to be a really excellent way to sharpen & maintain Spyderco's H1 folders.
u.w.
I was gonna talk about vivi. I hope he doesn't see this video, he's the best defender of H1 I know !
That’s why I look forward to your vids because then I can look into different knives. I like watching you and a couple of others who use their knives. I don’t always use all my knives. But the ones I do use I need them to hold up.
Also love the ending where you shouted out some awesome YT channels, that’s so cool!!
Great blade. I own the pacific salt ( the some what bigger brother) I'm using mine for years and i find that after a few sharpenings the edge retention gets better ( I feel like the better steel reveals it self like the original machine sharpening burned the steel some what) I indeed think most knife channels mostly concentrate too much on reviewing as much knifes possible instead of using the thing for some longer time. I like H1, because of how crazy sharp I can get it. ( something most knife reviewers never discover after making three cuts in a piece of phone book paper and saying the steel is crap)
Exactly!
H1 is a work hardening steel. The more you use and sharpen it, the better it gets.
Thanks for the review. I really love H1 serrated blades. I never go anywhere without either my Ladybug or Dragonfly serrated salt knives.
I have the serrated version, and it's one of my dedicated dive knives.
Being H1, I don't need to look after it (much).
I removed the clip, and attached a boltsnap to it. It's always on my BCD and really only used for cutting through large diameter ghost gear. For monofilament, smaller diameter ghost gear, and webbing I use a Trilobite Eezycut line cutter.
Keep up the great work Erica! I’ve never used H1 but I do appreciate your content!
By the way, the RGT pocket clip is freaking awesome on my pasific salt 2, don't even feel the clip when i got the knife in hand. Don't know how it will work on the shorter salt knife though, but guessing it won't be that much different
H1 is amazingly tough, in that it bends like crazy rather than breaking… combined with the corrosion resistance, that makes for an awesome beater, like you said. Also, Spyderco’s testing has supposedly demonstrated that serrated H1 has longer edge retention than anything else they’ve tested. I’ll be really interested to see more of your testing on the plain edge, because it absolutely gets dumped on.
H1 sharpened at a 15 degrees per side (even lower) with low grit (600) holds an edge perfectly fine for EDC. Basically the same as VG10, and I've tested them for years. Extremely tough steel, never chips, touches up to hair popping sharp in 60 seconds. One of the most underrated steels that steel snobs dismiss because they just like the novelty of supersteels that hold an edge forever, but in turn can rust in 1 day of sweat in your pocket. Knives are tools, you dont use K390 near water just like you dont pick H1 to cut up cardboard for 8 hours per day. Need the right tool for the job, but as an all round indestructible zero maintenance EDC steel, H1 & LC200N finds itself in my pocket more than any of my supersteel knives. There's just something about them. Absolutely love the new Spyderco Stretch XL in H2, my favourite knife blade and handle profile ever.
Just got a stretch 2 XL in SE
Whoever sharpened it from the factory did a shit job. Wouldn’t even cut paper when I received it. Worked on it on my sharp maker for 10 minutes and it’s g2g now.
I hope your birthday was awesome!
Quick H1 anecdote: I remember Eric Glesser saying that H1 warps when you grind just one side at a time. So that's why this is a hollow grind. It's impossible to full flat grind both sides of a blade simultaneously.
So glad you reviewed this because my step father loves fishing and I started researching a pocket knife for him. I’ll be checking it out now 🙏
There are a lot of H1 die-hards on the spyderco forums. It’s out of production now so we will have H2 steel now.
My first proper folder was actually an H1 pacific salt. I used it lightly here & there as my work carry when I rarely needed it. It never got run your finger down it dull, but I did strop it (poorly) often. I stopped using it when I had to cut down a pallet cardboard bin for the trash compactor & it cut so poorly (which was likely my fault due to poor sharpening) that it spun in my hand & almost serrated my arm, which made me shy away from this model. Not the steel. Think the blade grind was just too thick for what I was trying to cut with it.
I also have a Spyderco ARK which is in H1 steel & I used that for food & it always worked fine. Really wouldn't mind using the steel again, but I don't use my stuff hardly at all (as I don't have much to use them on often) & I'm sure someone who uses their stuff extremely would hyper fixate on the noticeable flaws of a knife/steel.
I'm naturally a very asthetic-oriented person when it comes to knives, so I don't naturally flock to Spyderco even though I know they got fire Heat treatment, for the most part. But, on a semi-related note, the main reason I don't like Spyderco knives is because most of the customizable models have that hole clip point with the hump, & that hump is very unnatural for my awkward hands. If I was to get one, it would most-likely be a shaman in a DLC tool steel with DLC hardware. Not against Spyderco (really not a fan of the sprint run game though.)
Nicely done program - I'll be watching from now on.
Thank you!
I hope Spyderco sees your videos. They could hire you to be their steel tester, knife tester, whatever they need. You always have them as your test knives and they are great
I have a Spyderco Dragonfly salt 2. Had it for almost a year. One of my first Spyderco and I love it! It's one of my EDC and I heard the samthing about H1 how it suck and my Dad told me it suck cause he has a Spyderco salt and it would not keep an edge. Thanks they probably change the heat treatment on the H1 cuz his is an older model and mine is newer. Thank you for the good review and I like your content!💯💯💯
Thank you very much for enabling subtitles. Have a nice day!
Love your content, very informative 👍👌👏👏. Thanks to your channel I am able to make informed decisions when it comes to knife purchases. Albeit, most of my knives are not used 😄😄. I do have a few that I use. I have purchased a Wicked Edge system and will start to experiment with sharpening. Thanks to your experience and advice 🙏🙏
The first spyderco I ever bought was a beat up salt1 from an old coworker for $25. I still have it but since I have lc200n knives now it never gets used.
I have tons of high carbide steels: Maxamet, k390, M4, 10V, etc and my H1 Pacific Salt is one of my most used knives. Edge retention is not stellar but H1 is VERY tough and can handle and benefit from a coarse low edge angle. Edge retention is not everything! Nice to see you finding the merits of the OG Salt steel ;)
Important question: How do each of those tool steels behave next to each other? (AKA toughness vs. edge retention vs. ease of sharpening?)
@@Krusher_Knave I use DMT diamond stones (pretty much essential for vanadium rich steels) so sharpening is not much of a challenge. I find that the harder steels with high edge stability are easy to apex. Thus Maxamet is easiest followed by K390, then closely 10V then by M4. Toughness is pretty much the inverse of this list. K390 is really a sweet spot for toughness and edge stability relative to edge retention. I kind of think of K390 as a non stainless s90v analog. It has similar bite, slightly higher edge retention, and similar edge stability and toughness.
In contrast H1 is easily sharpened with typical alumina oxide or ceramic stones. It is a tough steel but not super hard and lacking in carbide so blunts from abrasive wear quickly.
@@joshuabriggs7114 What sharpening set would you recommend I get for these steels (diamond with ceramic possibly followed by what strop?), as they are my most preferred?
My only experience with H1 is the little Ladybug serrated hawkbill. And I absolutely love it. I carry it often (it weighs nothing), and when I don't EDC it I keep it in a handy spot in my kitchen and use it to open food packages and poke holes in microwave and whatever. But when I do EDC it, I have to maintenance the non-serrated tip area pretty frequently. It only takes a few seconds to do that. And the serrations are easy to sharpen on the Spyderco Sharp Maker. It's a cool little knife to throw in an EDC, though I probably should've spent a little more and gotten the hawkbill dragonfly for a tougher pivot.
Do you have a good process for sharpening on the sharp maker? Lots of videos out there but curious as to which one works for you for this knife.
@@YaYa-ke1zr I use the corner of the white rods. 5 strokes on the serrated side, 1 stroke on the other side, repeat as needed. On the non-serrated side you're removing the burr. With the hawkbill you wanna slightly turn your wrist. People get worried the Sharpmaker will ruin the serrations, but it actually improves them because they become less snaggy. I've been sharpening a serrated kitchen knife like this for many years and it hasn't ruined the serrations. You wanna go slow and light and only use the fine rods. I do the tip area separately freehanded so I don't round that off. Then on a strop I use the corner of the strop to get into the serrations. There's a good video that shows that from someone named MrTomatoManJL. His video on the Manbug Salt. He uses a different triangular sharpening rod but it's how I do it except I have the angle set by the Sharpmaker.
@@Pinki2019 Thanks for the specifics! I’m gonna try to sharpen my serrated blades this weekend by following your advice.
@@YaYa-ke1zr Just go slow enough so the corner of the rod gets into each serration.
My experience with H1 is fairly limited but speaking solely in regards to edge retention, I'd take 440A over H1 any day of the week.
I wonder if the black ‘salt’ clips are all going to the new process. The Native Salt and the Salt 2 have different black clips (by design).
In other news, the Salt 2 hardware won’t fit Delica’s. The clip fits, screws don’t. At least not on mine. I had wanted to use the black screws for my lynch clips but NOPE.
Awesome video. Heck yes. Liking my Salt 2 Wharncliffe in LC200n.
Learning and using it.
Cheers!
I have three… all serrated blades. Dangerous sharp. I think serrated is ago to daily. I do a lot of kayak fishing, and use them because they are visible
Totally makes sense!
Thanks for the shout out at the end!🤩
I edc a salt 2 in h1 and a manix 2 light weight in cpm bd1n and the manix has a touch of surface rust in the cutting edge from an acid wash I did in a pool so started using my salt more after and it still doesn’t have a spot of rust in it I will say it’s for basic cutting and the ballade does get beat up fast
Solid video! Please don't say FRN handles are milled out it's an injection molded plastic, that has been skeletalized in the injection mold. Love you
Doesn't matter people get the point- nit picking doesn't really do anything beneficial haha thanks for watching I appreciate it!
I could be wrong but I think you may be a little mixed up with what you’re calling the “new salt 2” and Spyderco’s upcoming salt series that will be featuring the new H2 steel because H1 is going out of production, which spyderco went way into detail about in their May SpydercoByte email, it’s worth the read for sure. The line of salt 2 knives have been around for quite some time though that said they did seem to update the clips across the board with the release of the LC200N Salt 2 series which has the powder coated clip and hardware.
I remember reading an ol' blade forum post about h1 having a higher rockwell hardness (~61 ish), if full serrated was chosen
I have a Spyderco fixed blade in H1 I keep in my tackle box. I swear it feels like it gets dull whether I use it or not.
Dang!!
Have been thinking about getting one of those a few times, but i already got 2 pasific salt 2's with longer blades, so every time i think about it, my mind goes: What's the point, it's the same knife with a shorter blade and handle, cutting tasks is much easier with a longer blade, and so on and so on😄
Thanks for the shout out! I have H1 on my list of steels I’m eventually going to carry. My goal is to try them all. Insert Pokémon theme here.
Yes!!! Love trying them all!
Pretty windy there. Boiling hot here in Sacramento area. I bought a Spyderco Caribbean with lc200n. It's a good one for sure.
I haven’t been around in a while. You’re new backyard looks like your old backyard.
I’m veeery curious to see how it does through more testing!! It’s a cool looking knife!!
Need to get your hands on the new benchmade Taggedout love to hear your thoughts on it.
The chad deboonker. Keep making great reviews, love this content!
Batoning isn't a good way to test edge retention. It can test toughness somewhat (H1 actually has decent toughness, don't know who's saying it doesn't) but it's more about geometry and blade shape. Plus wood isn't abrasive. Cut up some cardboard or rope and that'll show how good wear resistance is.
On a side note I hate the rep gas station knives give 440. 440(doesn't matter if its A, B or C) is a decent class steel and can perform really well with a decent heat treatment. I have a custom in 440B at 60-61hrc with cryo and its up there with my 154cm knives. You tell people its Sandvik or Aeb-l and they're salivating but tell them its 440(similar composition but with a bit more Cr for better corrosion resistance) and they turn their nose up.
I know it wasn't a perfect test. It was just for fun. And to show that it didn't crumble to dog poop like people say it will. Thanks for watching!
@@ericasedc I've read plenty on the plain edge having poor edge retention (and serrated ones being just below super steels in performance) but I haven't seen much talk about low toughness. Then again I wasn't researching/looking for info about it plus there's Si many posts or videos everywhere.
I'll look forward to your testing/results videos. Been really enjoying your head to head weekly and monthly bodies.
Hope you and Nicole are doing ok.
Nice review, crazy how expensive spyderco is now. Knives like this used to be 1/2 what they cost now.
I have been looking at a new Spyderco and was wondering if it would be any good? Great to see you checking it out. I value your opinion.
Hell yeah looking forward to this one
It's cold rolled not heat treated BTW.
I was looking for a comment that mentioned H1 wasn't heat treated. It's nitrogen based instead of carbon if I remember correctly
@@williamjackson6316 Yes I believe there are new H2 that's gonna be replacing H1 is also cold rolled
ive got a pacific in h1 thats like 8yo if you want to borrow it for comparison. the edge retention really does suck.
oh yeah, and Happy Birthday to you! :-)
I may be wrong but I seem to recall Spyderco saying that H1 would sharpen with use (correct me if I’m wrong). If that’s true that would explain why after some sharpening it would retain an edge better. That being said it is a specialty steel that was never meant for EDC for most people. I do think that if Spyderco did address the heat treat thus making the steel perform better they should be open about it.
I was carrying a blade in 440C for a while (before I lost it), all I ever heard from my coworkers the whole time I carried it is how bad 440 is. People think they know everything even if they haven't tried it. A stoutly ground 440A survival knife with a soft temper is not the same as a lightly tempered 440C hollow ground edc. Geometry and heat treat are more important than steel composition, and there's also this funny thing about knives... you can sharpen them.
YES!!!! You speak truth brotha. Cheers to that!
Do you prefer H2 or LC200N
I've heard that H1 work hardens (I think that's the proper term) from sharpening, and edge retention improves from that. I'm curious to see if you find that to be true.
People _really_ misunderstand what work hardening actually means. Sharpening, and even grinding don't cause work hardening.
Work hardening is caused by changes in shape, like bending over and over.
The serrated version does not the plain edge.
@@CNYKnifeNerd You mean like serrations? I think Sal has said that serrated H1 has a longer edge retention than anything else they’ve tested.
I saw that there is a lime green UKPK also wth LC200n looks like H1 is not as bad as you thought.
Very Course edge for Plain edge.
Serration for the win in H1
Batoning isn’t the best edge retention test I personally believe. But 440 can be quite decent when done well.
It isn’t an edge retention test- it was just general testing to see what would happen. If the edge would completely crumble or not. Because no one has anything good to say about it. Like I stated in the video, it was a stupid and fun activity to just see what happens.
Love your content!
Thank you!
There you go! 👍😁👍
hey erica want to try out the spyderco new h2 steel i have it already was delivered two weeks ago is the spyderco assist
That could be fun! Maybe at some point!!!
Don't forget bout Nero knives. His channel is great
1 year later still hardly videos on this model🤦♂️
H1 is getting discontinued and it’s gonna be replaced with H2. This salt 2 is no longer new 😅
Happy Birthday 🎂
Do you prefer H2 or LC200N?
@@jaytay7989 LC200N!
@@ericasedc thank you.
Can you put in a link for carry every day?
My H1 dragonfly dulled after a trip to the beach… where I cut open like bags of chips and food. I was shocked! Love it for the corrosion resistance but it definitely dulled so fast
I am super curious to see what sharpening does!
why do people hate on 440 i get it on 440a but 440c is a good stong steel in my experiance
Pretty good
What about Nick Shabaaz?
is the myth of H1 being "work hardened" true? ie the more you sharpen it over time the edge will get harder
Shout me out!!! Lmao
H1 is an amazing steel. Idk what your doing for “testing” lol
Scab sent me
Set 2x speed 🤣
Funny but saves time 🤣
Haircut or just no hat? Nice, in any case.
Like your hairdo.
h1 is for saltwater people 👍 its only made for this ! h1 can not rust ! never !
worst knife ever.
Welp now they can quit whining cause there's LC200N and CPM MagnaCut. My old H1 Spyderedge Pacific Salt holds an edge plenty well, all I've ever needed is a green DMT serrated edge sharpener to touch it up. A film of Flitz on a Dremel SOFT cloth buff will clean it up if needed. The plain edge for me, not so much. Used it in the kitchen, same treatment. Spyderco white triangle stones to hone. Meat and veggies