This is a really good video. Thanks! But in your examples, I think some parts were better with some reflection, when you removed the reflection it looked more flat. Maybe a middle is better. Actually on the living room the after pic is definitely with a flash or something, the light and shadows look way different. It's a bit misleading to use that as an example. In my opinion flat light like that does not look better. When I started out with RE photo I was turning on all lights in the room, but eventually found it was better to let the natural light do the main work, it made for more pleasant looking shadows and even walls, without these bloom spots on the walls from this one strong lamp. Definitely polarizing is good some times, but I'd be careful to not overdo it.
The first video I see of someone explaining why this is a great tool. I'm switching from environmental photography to do interior architectural photo, and it really drew me off why the salesman at a very reputable camera store in NY would not get why I need a good polarized filter and only wide lenses that can work with it. ... Thanks for sharing this. I was beginning to think I was crazy
I live in Florida, Hurricane proof windows have UV film inside that works TERRIBLY with Polarizer filters. Glass looks all smudged and gross. It's impossible to use it for floors because once you remove it you move your camera too much
Honestly it's a tough call because I have not tried them all, but I can give you some advice I have noticed to be true over time for my personal workflow. 1) Quality is directly associated with price for polarizers and ND filters. The cheaper ones tend to have lots of issues with banding and the vignetting you brought up. 2) I recommend buying one that fits your largest piece of glass and using step down filters. This allows you to spend more on 1 nice filter and use it across all your other lenses with stepdowns and it helps remove some of that vignetting by only shooting through the middle of the lens. I personally recommend the wonderpana system, but I have also used the big Lee filters and the Peter McKinnon colab with Polar Pro. They are all expensive options, but the quality of the image you produce with them compared to the cheap K&F brand is night and day.
Hey! Great video - do you still implement the CPL in your workflow? If so, is it mainly for HDR or do you use flash with the CPL as well? I tried using flash with a CPL once, but I had to crank my ad 200 up to full power even for medium size rooms to offset the loss of stops of light. Was debating if the CPL really is a game changer and if I need to upgrade to an ad600. Thanks!
Good question and I do still use it. Not only does it help my workflow for hardwoods and shiny surfaces, when I show up with this giant one agent and homeowners all still get impressed. What kind of camera are you shooting on? I use the A7iv and typically im shooting f7, iso 600 and about 1/50 as a starting point and my AD200 is between 1/16(small bathrooms) 1/8(regular bathrooms) 1/4(bedrooms) 1/2(living rooms)
Good to know, thanks for the reply. I’m shooting on an a7R IV at f7.1 and iso320 since you can see more noise in the R line with the more megapixels. Maybe the iso is too low? But I constantly find myself shooting at full power and most times wanting more power, so I’m not sure if those settings I need a more powerful flash
@@Hhart94 I'm sure the ISO has a big deal to do with it. I can shoot up to 800-1000 ISO before seeing even the slightest bit of noise that's noticeable for the MLS images
how does it work when using the filter in bracket shooting? I would assume that finding a "happy medium" is the best approach in bracket mode. Any additional info or tips on polarize filter combine with bracket shooting would be cool.
Enjoying your channel Jeremy. I’m looking into a Laowa 15mm but worried about that heavy gradation/vignetting I see in wide angle examples elsewhere . Have you had success with any other polarizers on a wide angle or only that Wonderpana?
I can tell you I have the Laowa 12mm full frame e-mount and can't see any vignetting (or at least any that is obvious and distracting). But I also have the Laowa 9mm APSC and I have extreme problems with vignetting on that lens. I don't have any personal experience with the 15mm though so I can't really sway your decision either way for that one, but the wonderpana system is the polarizing system I use because it is easy to swap to multiple lenses. I know it's not a lot of information but hopefully it helps, and thanks for watching!
I am using the wonderpana 145mm polarizer for all my interiors mainly because it's one of the only things I found to fit the wide angle lenses I shoot with for RE.
Did I see you use Wonder Pana for sony 12-24G ? I'm thinking of getting that cus it is cheaper and smaller than the NISI. I think the NISI looks stupid big and a hassle to use.
One of my photographers on staff has that same APSC lens for his Sony. He does tell me in those dark rooms like basements he can have a little issue with noise, but generally speaking not many issues according to him
I believe the same one I have will work on that lens too, but if you go to wonderpana's actual website they have a full breakdown of everyone they make by lens. I would check that out just to be sure
Thanks for the sub and the feedback! I have had a lot of issues with my audio this past year but I think I finally got it all figured out by spending lots of money on mics that don't suck 😂
Wood floors was the first thing I thought of! Does great. This was an excellent tip to share on your channel. Thanks for all your vids.
I'm glad to see others out there recognizing the wood floor effect! 🤣
This is a really good video. Thanks!
But in your examples, I think some parts were better with some reflection, when you removed the reflection it looked more flat. Maybe a middle is better.
Actually on the living room the after pic is definitely with a flash or something, the light and shadows look way different. It's a bit misleading to use that as an example.
In my opinion flat light like that does not look better. When I started out with RE photo I was turning on all lights in the room, but eventually found it was better to let the natural light do the main work, it made for more pleasant looking shadows and even walls, without these bloom spots on the walls from this one strong lamp.
Definitely polarizing is good some times, but I'd be careful to not overdo it.
The first video I see of someone explaining why this is a great tool. I'm switching from environmental photography to do interior architectural photo, and it really drew me off why the salesman at a very reputable camera store in NY would not get why I need a good polarized filter and only wide lenses that can work with it. ... Thanks for sharing this. I was beginning to think I was crazy
Glad I could help you remember you're only crazy... about photography 😂
'That photographer guy really swings a big filter!' LOL.
I live in Florida, Hurricane proof windows have UV film inside that works TERRIBLY with Polarizer filters. Glass looks all smudged and gross. It's impossible to use it for floors because once you remove it you move your camera too much
This is actually super helpful information for everyone. I have never encountered this personally so thanks for the heads up in case I do!
Great video!!! What polarizer do you suggest for my 77mm lens to shoot interiors without getting those black corners and vignettes?
Honestly it's a tough call because I have not tried them all, but I can give you some advice I have noticed to be true over time for my personal workflow.
1) Quality is directly associated with price for polarizers and ND filters. The cheaper ones tend to have lots of issues with banding and the vignetting you brought up.
2) I recommend buying one that fits your largest piece of glass and using step down filters. This allows you to spend more on 1 nice filter and use it across all your other lenses with stepdowns and it helps remove some of that vignetting by only shooting through the middle of the lens.
I personally recommend the wonderpana system, but I have also used the big Lee filters and the Peter McKinnon colab with Polar Pro. They are all expensive options, but the quality of the image you produce with them compared to the cheap K&F brand is night and day.
Hey! Great video - do you still implement the CPL in your workflow? If so, is it mainly for HDR or do you use flash with the CPL as well? I tried using flash with a CPL once, but I had to crank my ad 200 up to full power even for medium size rooms to offset the loss of stops of light. Was debating if the CPL really is a game changer and if I need to upgrade to an ad600. Thanks!
Good question and I do still use it. Not only does it help my workflow for hardwoods and shiny surfaces, when I show up with this giant one agent and homeowners all still get impressed. What kind of camera are you shooting on? I use the A7iv and typically im shooting f7, iso 600 and about 1/50 as a starting point and my AD200 is between 1/16(small bathrooms) 1/8(regular bathrooms) 1/4(bedrooms) 1/2(living rooms)
Good to know, thanks for the reply. I’m shooting on an a7R IV at f7.1 and iso320 since you can see more noise in the R line with the more megapixels. Maybe the iso is too low? But I constantly find myself shooting at full power and most times wanting more power, so I’m not sure if those settings I need a more powerful flash
@@Hhart94 I'm sure the ISO has a big deal to do with it. I can shoot up to 800-1000 ISO before seeing even the slightest bit of noise that's noticeable for the MLS images
how does it work when using the filter in bracket shooting? I would assume that finding a "happy medium" is the best approach in bracket mode. Any additional info or tips on polarize filter combine with bracket shooting would be cool.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoying your channel Jeremy. I’m looking into a Laowa 15mm but worried about that heavy gradation/vignetting I see in wide angle examples elsewhere .
Have you had success with any other polarizers on a wide angle or only that Wonderpana?
I can tell you I have the Laowa 12mm full frame e-mount and can't see any vignetting (or at least any that is obvious and distracting). But I also have the Laowa 9mm APSC and I have extreme problems with vignetting on that lens. I don't have any personal experience with the 15mm though so I can't really sway your decision either way for that one, but the wonderpana system is the polarizing system I use because it is easy to swap to multiple lenses. I know it's not a lot of information but hopefully it helps, and thanks for watching!
Great video. which filter do you use for interiors?
I am using the wonderpana 145mm polarizer for all my interiors mainly because it's one of the only things I found to fit the wide angle lenses I shoot with for RE.
Did I see you use Wonder Pana for sony 12-24G ? I'm thinking of getting that cus it is cheaper and smaller than the NISI. I think the NISI looks stupid big and a hassle to use.
I have a 10-18 f4 I’m concerned it’ll be too dark to shoot with one in front
One of my photographers on staff has that same APSC lens for his Sony. He does tell me in those dark rooms like basements he can have a little issue with noise, but generally speaking not many issues according to him
would the one you have work on sony fe 16-35 f2.8 gm lens and which one to buy
I believe the same one I have will work on that lens too, but if you go to wonderpana's actual website they have a full breakdown of everyone they make by lens. I would check that out just to be sure
Hi Jeremy, I'm new subscriber for your channel and I really enjoy from your videos. But your voice is buzzing and that is annoying a little bit.
Thanks for the sub and the feedback! I have had a lot of issues with my audio this past year but I think I finally got it all figured out by spending lots of money on mics that don't suck 😂
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