That’s awesome!! I’m glad You can understand almost everything I’m saying...if it helps, you can turn on subtitles as well to help. If there’s anything you’re not sure about, you can always email me and I’ll help as much as possible. 😁👍
I’m watching this 3 years after and this video gave me the knowledge I needed to continue this Timelapse’s fascination I have. I’ve been having some trouble controlling some things and it taught me things I didn’t know. 🙏🏾
After watching 100s of tutorials on Holi Grail Time-lapses I have no doubt to say that this is the most thorough and well explained tutorial. Especially for Sony users. Thank you Mike. Very Grateful 😊
Hi Mike, I’ve just shot my first day to night timelapse using your exact methods and it worked like a dream, I didn’t detect any flickers at all. No need for LR Timelapse any more. I didn’t have my tripod with me but set it up on a gimble and, of course, there was slight movement in the framing of each photo. I’ve tried to stabilise in Davinci Resolve without much success. I’ll definitely use a tripod next time. The timelapse was shot in Brisbane Australia so the sun sets pretty quickly here. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into your videos to make them informative, interesting and entertaining too.
That's great to har Bill! It is amazing that even when gimbals have been calibrated, the amount of drift you get over time. That has happened with all of the gimbals I have owned over the years. Great to hear you got something useable from it though. I've often thought of trying to get some astrophotography pics from a moving boat with the use of a gimbal ... maybe one day when I get my super-yacht!! 😆😆 Thanks for your kind words and thanks for watching 😁👍
Like many comments already submitted, I watched your channel and enjoyed expanding my knowledge/abilities thanks to your videos years ago. After several frustrating failed attempts to capture a day-to-night Holy Grail Timelapse using a buggy German dongle, my search led me back to this channel and video. First time out, flawless capture! Thank you very much. Not sure if you are still collecting data as mentioned in the video, but I am happy to share my info/files if you are! My TL was shot in the middle of San Francisco Bay from Alcatraz Island National Park. Thanks again!
I've just bought the Sony A6600 and never knew that you could shoot a "Holy Grail" timelapse straight from the a camera. I'm amazed!! Thanks so much for this invaluable tutorial and for explaining it so well.
No worries Bill, great to hear I could help! The A6600 is a great little camera ... I have one as well and take it out to shoot when I want to travel super light. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Just want to say thank you so much for being an inspiration and great teacher. I’ve learned so much from you and I give you credit for what I’ve learned. Thank you and don’t ever stop helping us.
I haven't visted your channel for ages as it is mostly for beginners. Now I came back for the Timelapse information and have to say, that you are the only one so far who is really explaining it in your different videos so that it is possible to understand it technically and what the different settings mean. Thanks a lot!
I forgot to mention white balance in this video. 🤦🏻♂️ I set it to manual daylight balanced. Then edit in post. You gotta tweak and tune it until you get it right.
Used some of your other Astro photography videos to shoot the milky way while on vacation earlier this month. I did use the intervalometer but it was all night shots, I want to try the day to night and night to early morning tho! I’m new to a good quality camera so always learning, appreciate the help I get from your channel!
That's great to hear! I'm glad my tutorials are helping! It's well worth trying...I'm going to do a day to astro time-lapse to put in the editing video...it'll be interesting to see how it copes with that! Thanks for watching! 👍
I just wanna go out to shoot timelaps. And I did't know the interval effect the speed how turns day to night. I thought only the lenght of the timelaps only count. Thanks for explain it this 10,6,3sec video! Helpful! Can't wait to try out!
Hi Mike, great video. Just a tip I noticed, if you shoot in 16:9 the raw images will still be full size 3:2 so framing in 16:9 has no drawbacks that I can think of.
Thanks for the info Dane, yep this is true, I just prefer to look at the 3x2 aspect ratio so I can see the whole image and work out which part of the image I am going to use...although every now and then, I completely forget about this and then am too cropped in with the final shot. Having it in 16x9 is a great way not to forget this! Thanks for watching! 😁👍
I have the a7r3 and love it. Yet to do time lapse and have a job request coming up. I've watched other videos and yours is by far the best tutorial. I'm sure I will need to watch a couple more times to get the math down. Going to experiment tonight. Appreciate the help!
Thanks so much! The timelapse function is definitely a great addition to this camera!! ... and once you get a good timelapse, it can get quite addictive! Thanks for watching and let me know how you get on! 😁👍
I try a few different white balance levels. Sometimes I'll put it in between the tow extremes and then balance it out with key frames in Premier Pro or After Effects.
Hi Mike, me again, I watched your tutorial again and have noted the the key points you’ve mentioned: the interval priority on / off for day to night Timelapse, hence I would like to know it is better to set interval priority on or off in this case? Many thanks Randy from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Super post, Mike! Lots to absorb. Haven’t tried timelapse yet, but will retain this vid and make a cheat sheet from it for reference. Good illustration of Photopills real life use. Array of settings seems ripe for assigning to one of the memory mode dials. Involving your viewers via their downloads is a wonderful addition.
Thanks so much Paul...Photopills is by far my favourite photo app, although I'm trying planit pro and the photographers ephemeris at the mo to see if there's anything better out there...might even make a comparison video on those three as well! 😁 If you're doing it a lot it would definitely be worth assigning a memory mode position for it. I was thinking it would be great to get a whole load of time lapses from around the world...it'll be interesting to see the different ones everyone sends in...I just hope my dropbox account can handle it all!! 😁👍
Thanks Mike, a few years old but still an excellent and relevant video. I did some more experimenting and testing on this feature in various modes for others that may have my questions. I shoot a lot of sunset into astro timelapse which requires a huge change in exposure to Speed, Aperture and ISO. I start at usual daylight settings of say 1/125th, F8, ISO100 but by night time 2 hrs later I need 8.0 secs, F1.2 and ISO3200. The problem is almost every mode locks the Aperture at whatever you start with therefore as it gets darker you can never get enough light because your aperture is locked at F8 or whatever you started with. This equals dismal failure - EXCEPT? EXCEPT when you use Speed (S) Mode. In S mode you set the shutter speed to whatever works during daylight and as it gets darker, the aperture becomes wider and wider until the limit of your lens is reached. Then start increasing your shutter speed during the shoot bit by bit until you get to your 8 or 10 secs that you need in the dark. If your ISO is set to Auto, it then starts increasing the ISO as it gets darker. If you had your ISO locked in at say 100 originally, then you can increase the ISO during the shoot until you get to about 3200. Once you get to around 8 or 10 secs with your ISO at around 3200 (either auto ISO or manually), then you can walk away and enjoy a warm coffee in the dark while it does the rest. It works extremely well with little to no flicker. You can also choose whether you want a constant shoot interval, say 10 secs, right from the start and just adjust shutter speed as you go OR let the shutter speed override the interval as you go. This just results in different time effects during playback and is a personal choice. Be aware that Shoot interval priority is locked in the default off setting so your selected shutter speed will always override your Shooting interval.
Thanks for the info Levin! Do you use LRtimelapse at all in this process to get a completely smooth transition? Also, do you use the interval function in camera or an external intervalometer? Thanks for watching 👍
@@mikesphotography No Worries Mike, happy to help out as it is difficult to find detailed info about this feature. Everyone says you can do it and then just repeats the info in the Sony manual. Your video is the only one I could find that gave a really good explanation of HOW to use it in real life so thanks for that. All this was done using the internal Sony Interval Shooting Function. No external intervalometers at all. I do have and use Edelkrone heads and sliders which will be my next experiment but everything mentioned is with the camera only. Yes I still use LR timelapse pro for all my timelapse work but my tests indicated that while using the auto ISO, it get a little flicker but LRT was easily able to reduce it to virtually nothing. The flicker is caused by the occasional change in ISO between a few images when it is on the cusp of needing to change. It might be at ISO 200 and then one image will be at ISO250 then the next back to 200. You might get this jumping of ISO for say 3 in 10 images until it darkens enough to lock it at 250 until the next auto change. While the luminance value barely changes it is enough to just cause a little flicker. When I used a set ISO of 100 and then increased it manually as needed (once the aperture had opened completely and I had extended the speed out to 10sec), I ended up with no flicker at all and LRT didn't really have to do anything. The down side of changing the ISO manually is towards the end I had an interval of 11secs with a shutter speed of 10secs. Therefore the shutter is open and the screen is blank for 10 seconds. When you open the ISO window and change it, you can't see anything because the screen is blank taking the photo. It will change the ISO successfully between shots but you really need to know how to do that by feel and have a deep understanding of which buttons and how many turns to change it to your desired setting because it is all done blind. There is now only a 1 second window between shots to confirm your changes. This is also not great while the shutter is open as you can introduce image blur because you are shaking it when changing the settings. I tried using the Sony Imaging Edge Mobile app to control the camera during this so I wouldn't have to touch it and make all changes remotely from the app but the moment you invoke the Intvl Shooting Func, it kicks the app off line and won't have a bar of it. Pity because it would make the perfect solution. So the best result was using manual ISO but it is challenging. Auto ISO still gave an excellent result after I ran it through LRTimelapse. Results can be viewed at ruclips.net/channel/UC_WA_CFINHy24j679Wno_8w Sorry for the long reply.
dude, been looking for a video that explained if the auto exposure ramping in the sonys worked well or not, you are the first one that demonstrated it! thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing this setting technique. On AV mode, the camera will automatically adjust ISO + Shutter speed in associated with the light changing. However, we have to decide what "F value" we would go for? Does is matter to push the brightest aperture as we are shooting from Day to Night? and How about shooting from Night to Dawn and welcoming the Sun rise? What F value you might suggest?
Astounding. And a great tutorial on Timelapse with a guided tutorial no where so elaborate on RUclips. Thank you. For this. But I have Fuji XT4 camera. If you can give some settings for XT4, for Timelapse I shall be thankful.
VERY good info, ESPECIALLY showing us the difference bin settings. I see the advantages of the shooting Interval Priority on or off. Thanks so much for the tips.
I did a Milky Way to sunrise timelapse a couple weeks ago using manual exposure adjustments to run through LRT. I failed with the manual lens as changing aperture (which I did) on the manual lens is not recorded and LRT couldn't handle the changes smoothly. Thanks for this, next time I will use the interval and and auto iso method you outlined here.
Hi Chris, Yep, try the auto iso and interval method next time and see how you get on. The auto iso will hopefully smooth out the transitioning lighting conditions successfully next time. Let me know how you get on! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Here is the fail if you're interested. I'm not too heartbroken as the sunrise light never materialized and my singles came out very good. ruclips.net/video/lMvEBeJ-le4/видео.html
Hi Mike! AMAZING tutorial again. Can you please follow up with the sunset to star timelapse video that you mentioned in this tutorial? Your work is amazing and I will be very interested in it! Thank you very much!
Thanks so much Eduardo! As soon as we're allowed back outside, I'll definitely make that tutorial!! I'm going a little bit crazy being stuck indoors at the moment!! Can't wait for the curfew to be over!! Thanks for watching. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I think you face challenges about low light grains n noises, would you please tell how to resolve this issue, I am using sony A7c. which colour profile give less noise in production. Thanks again for your video that is really helpful.
Thanks so much Abraham! Timelapses are quite time consuming but are great fun when you get a good one! The Nikon’s already have an intervalometer built in don’t they? Thanks
Easy start is for example shooting melting of ice cube. Shooting interval 1 second. Windows movie maker might be enough for first tests. Or some other free SW. rockynook.com/article/time-lapse-photography-for-the-nikon-d750/
That is defintiely a good one to do...unless you live in a really cold country!! 😆 I'm going to try out some different bits of software to put timelapses together for people without adobe very soon. 👍
Thanks very much! You can't view it as a video, but if you select tab no.4 (the blue tab in the menu), and then go to page 4/4 it should have cont. PB for intvl option. this should give you a choppy playback giving you an idea of how the timelapse might look. Thanks for watching 😁👍
This is absolutely the best and most in depth timelapse day tutorial i have seen. And i have watched a lot. I would like to join in and send a day to night timelapse. I just got a Sony A7 III two days ago, and would like to give it a try. Good stuff! Keep it up.
Thanks so much, that would be great. If you can email me at mike@boxheadmike.com, I'll send you a link to upload the time-lapse to when you get the chance to make one. Thanks for watching and commenting and offering to join in, Much appreciated! 😁
Great video Mike! As usual! Greetings from Greece, and I'll see what I can do about that timelapse. A7iii / Tamron 28-75 here. You are, by far, my favorite tutorial source for this camera, and for photography in general! Keep it up. Thank you!
Thanks so much! I'm glad my tutorials are helping!! The tamron is a fantastic lens ins't it, I'm looking at getting the 17-28mm really soon! Thanks for watching! 😁
Thanks for the video Mike. What I'm looking for in a timelapse, if it shows the sky, is the movement of the clouds that ads interest to the shoot. I like the 3 sec interval. Oh by the way, it's great that clouds appear in your timelapse made here in UAE.
I waited for a cloud seeding day before shooting that one!! 😆 I do have a video on timelapses for clouds specifically as well, check it out when you have a chance: ruclips.net/video/D7lRvJdC3fg/видео.html Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks, great video ! Just want to add thought, you should mention the setting to turn off the screen light, so your battery can make it till the end !
Hello Mike. Thanks so much for this amazing tutorial. This makes it so much easier compared to what we needed before to do time lapse. I just created my first time lapse and I’m very happy with the result, however to go for the best quality you need some serious processing power. Thanks again and all the best to you!
Hi Reiner, Great to hear it has helped. You're right...I normally edit the photos for a timelapse and then leave my computer alone whilst it process them...and come back a few hours later...it is definitely a longer workflow than just shooting video or stills that's for sure. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Well, the day to night timelapse wasn't that great, but I went out very early last week to shoot a sunrise. But there is a lot of flickering, don't have a program like 'LRtimelapse' yet (but then again, I use On1 and not Lightroom). But afterwards I noticed I had the dial put on P and not A, so maybe that explains some flickering as well. Here's a link if you're interested. I shot it in the northern part of the Netherlands. ruclips.net/video/x5pQ-FcOJRA/видео.html
Thanks David! Unfortunately since then, as well as the pandemic, we moved to Bangkok...a place that isn't great for dark skies!! 😆🤦🏻♂️ When we get to travel again, I am hoping to be able to get somewhere dark again to shoot the holygrail sequence, just to see if it works with this setup...I have an epic place in mind in Indonesia, I just hope the borders open up again soon! Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thank you for every single tutorial. I enjoy all of it. The only thing I can't find is how to edit day to night timelapse in LR. Because day - golden hour - night is different how am I going to work that out? Your help much appreciated.
Thanks very much!! That is a good point...I tend to balance out the colours between the two as much as possible in lightroom and then add a varying colour temperature in the video editor. The other way to do it is to get LRtimelapse, this will give you the results you are looking for. lrtimelapse.com/ Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I have looked at the LRtimelapse as paid software. First I will try LR manually if not works we have to buy the software. Thank you for your reply.
Very nice video, detailed and very well explained as always! I like the way that you present your subjects in a calm way so that one can pleasantly follow you without stretching his nerves! Just one question. You do not mention anything about the aperture that you use. I see that it is F4. Any comments about it? Do you rather prefer an open aperture? Does it make any difference?
Thanks so much Sortiris! I just open it upas much as possible... as the darker it gets, the more light you need to let in to your camera. So get it as wide as possible and you'll get better night shots at the end of the timelapse.
Hello Mike, I see your videos again and again, as they are so helpful. At point 8:30 you change the shooting interval priority to on. I think that this is not necessasry as the ISO auto min ss is set to 4 sec while the shooting interval is 6 sec. Don't you agree?
Thanks so much! 😁 That is true, although in the example I give, it definitely does change the speed of the timelapse as it gets darker so just showing the differences between the two. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks so much! I have lots of fun creating these tutorials so there are plenty more to come!! Go check out my channel and subscribe if you haven't already! 😁👍
Thanks for this great video, Mike! On my side I strongly struggle with an issue with intervallometer Auto-exposure (on a6400) for timelapsing stars. The 1st shot is properly exposed, then all the other shots are way too underexposed. Any idea on how to avoid this? (settings used: A mode, min auto iso SS 30 sec, AE tracking sensitivity=low, interval priority=off)
Not a stupid question at all...you can do it in photoshop, quicktime, windows moviemaker and lots of other programs. I have a video to show you how I do it: ruclips.net/video/FQduVS3iO3E/видео.html Check it out when you get the chance. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Mike. I rarely leave comments on anyone's videos but I just wanted to tell you I tried your technique for the Sony a6500 but the steps/exposure adjustments were too drastic. Maybe its because my Sony crop-sensor camera is just too limiting for this? The first time lapse of a sunset I created last week was done using a variable ND filter (K&F Concept ND8-ND128 (3-7 Stop)) and on full Manual mode. I set my intervalometer to an interval of 4 seconds and a "Long" of 4 seconds. Then on my camera, I set a shutter speed of 2 frames per second, thus preserving the 180 degree shutter rule. I set the Aperture to f/11 on my new Sony 24-70 mm f/2.8 GM II lens, set the ISO to Auto, and set the White Balance to Auto, with Manual focus. The problem I found was once the sun was below the horizon, the exposure darkened considerably (due to the variable ND filter I had set to about the 6th stop) and the Auto ISO (100-1600) that I had set maxed out quite early. I was able to salvage this time lapse by creating two separate videos - one of the actual sunset, and one of the blue hour to night time. In the blue hour time lapse, I increased the exposure and highlights (as well as other enhancements) in the last frame and synced it with all of the other earlier frames to produce a usable video in Final Cut Pro. In the sunset time lapse, I decreased the exposure and highlights and was able to create something that worked right up until the sun dipped below the horizon line. However, there was noticeable flickering, which made me wonder if it was due to Auto White Balance I had set? (or maybe Auto ISO?). Earlier tonight, I tried another time lapse. This time I ditched the ND filter and chose Aperture Priority mode. Unfortunately there was too much flickering for this to be usable. I once again used an interval of 4 seconds and this time I opened the Aperture to the widest setting (f/2.8) on my new Sony 24-70 mm f/2.8 GM II lens, set the ISO to Auto, and set the White Balance to Daylight, with Manual focus. However, while playing the frames back, I noticed some lightening/darkening between frames, and thus more flickering. This was due to different shutter speeds I believe, stepping up or down to compensate for the available light. In the Sony a6500 there is no AE Tracking Sensitivity for still photographs (along with no interval shooting feature). Is there a way to avoid flickering or steps with Aperture Priority in this specific camera (the Sony a6500)? Or is my best bet to go with Manual with an ND filter? I want to avoid using specialized software such as LRTimelapse 6 as well. I know the Sony Alpha full frame cameras don't exhibit this flickering/step issue in shooting time lapses in Aperture Priority mode (at least with the A7III or A7RIII like you said), so is my camera simply too limiting for making these intervalometer-assisted time lapses? Thanks for any help. 🙏
Hi Jonathan, Thanks for your detailed comment. The main problem is that like you said, the a6500 doesn't have the AE tracking sensitivity as well as the interval function. In this function, the camera seems to be able to control the aperture blades better than for individual images taken with an external intervalometer. When shooting timelapses with modern lenses, the minute changes in the aperture blades cause the flickering you are talking about and the only real way to get rid of them is to process the sequence through LRtimelapse. When I made this video, I was expecting the flickering to still be there, so I was surprised to see there was very little flickering in the final timelapse. I think in the interval mode, the camera sets the aperture and then keeps it in one place (but that's just my thoughts on why it isn't as pronounced). I'd say with your current setup, the best way to get smooth looking timelapses, is to get LRtimelapse ... or shoot them when the exposure doesn't change as much. I hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I appreciate the response. I tried a few more time lapses since with this camera of mine, going fully manual with a Shade white balance and 400 ISO, along with the Manual setting, to go along with an aperture of f/8, and a shutter speed of 2 seconds with a 4 second interval. I also used a variable ND filter at an ND8/3 stop. No flickering whatsoever! Obviously when the light decreased rapidly, the image all went dark, except for the street and house lights. But in this method, I could still shoot sunset time lapses without having to go into LRTimelapse. And of course shooting RAW with my limited mirrorless camera is always better than the S&Q settings when it comes to quality, right? I may try the S&Q function though before I completely write it off, just to see the differences though. Thanks for making so many detailed videos and in-depth tutorials. I'm definitely going to upgrade to a full-frame camera in '23. One question, does the Sony A7S III (a "videocentric" mirrorless) also perform as well as the A7R III/IV or AR III/IV with flicker-free, Aperture priority interval shooting?
Nice time lapse...I’m just beginning to experiment with them so I got a few good tips here, and I love Astro photography as well! I’m hoping to get an Astro time lapse in soon..before winter sets in ha! Not sure if you’ve done earlier tutorials on Astro, if not hope there’s more in future.
Thanks so much Susan, I’m glad you got something from this. I haven’t done a video on astro timelpases...yet...but I have lots of other astrophotography tutorials...check out this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLDhXA9nCkoqYeOxFC6W5hh9_AW6mapILI Also I have all of my tutorials in alphabetical order and genres to make it easier to find what your looking for: www.boxheadmike.com/youtubelinks/ Thanks 😁
Have you experimented with different metering modes? I just tried a sunset timelapse and used spot metering, then put the spot on the sky thinking that'd be best. But the foreground gets lighter as it attempts to keep the same sky brightness...obviously 🙄 but putting the spot on the ground might also look odd, since it should naturally get darker, not stay the same. Is multi metering best?
Hi William, I haven't had a chance to experiment with the metering modes in this setting yet...I might have to give it a go when I do get out for some more timelapse sequences though. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography ahh ok. Thanks for the reply. Last night I did another one, with multi metering. It seemed to have some large steps in brightness where the iso suddenly jumps up and the exposure length didn't seem to come back down enough. Ahh well, it's reasonably fun tweaking these settings to find the best combination. Thanks for all the great videos!
Great vids Mike! Question about this technique.....I followed these in structures. With 30sec exposure, 30 sec shoot interval and 30sec auto iso with limit of 8000. Apature priority, 1 stop under exposure compensation. My goal was milky way then sunrise. The first image of the interval shoot was perfect with 2500 auto iso at 30sec so I walked away and let it go for 500 shots. But I found after that first shot the iso dropped to 250 and lower for the rest of the interval shoot making all the milky way images 3 stops under exposed. Why did this happen ?
I'm not sure why this happened. I have heard of a lot of problems with the iso changing or not going to the max that people have set. I am moving to a dark location really soon so I am going to try out exactly what you have done and make a video on it later in the year ... and try to figure it out once and for all ... it seems as though people have issues with big exposure changes and the camera not doing what it is told to do. With this one that I did, the city lights meant that the night time shots weren't that dark compared to a milkyway location.
Hi Mike. Great video! I’m just learning now about using time lapse on my A7III. You mentioned a video you would create towards the end of this video showing different day to night scenarios including astro. Did you make this video? Would be very interested to see it. Cheers.
Thanks so much Shahzad! I haven't made it yet...I didn't quite get enough different timelapses from different locations to make a decent video...maybe once we're allowed to travel again, we'll get more together. 😁👍
At 12:47 in you mention you’ll go over the processing for day to night, but I havn’t found it. Still going through videos though, there are worse things to do with my time ;-) Thanks for this info - i was looking at a device that would perform the bulb ramping but if the built in settings work this well, you just saved me a ton of cash.
That's a good point Chase...I had planned to shoot that one, but a few months after this covid hit...and then we moved countries...so haven't had a chance to shoot all of the time lapses that I wanted to for that video...it's still on the cards but I need to get out of the city first to get the stills needed. Thanks for reminding me...I'll add it to the list of things to shoot in the near future. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks, Mike. Those are obviously all, very good reasons ;-) No worries, I just thought I was missing it, as I found the video very late and there were many more after. But, have something to look forward to. Take care.
I wish I had three cameras with the same lenses! 😆 I shot them over three days form the same location changing the interval for each one...if you look closely you can see the 3 second one has clouds whereas the others haven't. As always, thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated!! 😁👍
Amazing video Mike ! The only video with so much detail about this feature. I watched it many time and I'm still struggling with one things. The difference between the interval priority on/off. i would love to see a graph with 2 curves : Shutter speed and ISO. On horizontal of the graph would be the light value decreasing and in vertical the value of the ISO and the shutter speed (as the focal stay constant there is no need to show it). I'm sure this would make my little brain understanding it faster :) Let me know if you are able to help me with this :) Thank you in advance Laurent
That would be a good way to show it!! Far too technical for me though...sounds like a challenge for Gerald Undone!! He'd be well into getting that kind of detail from a camera setting!! 😁👍
As always, a great video Mike :). I tried out the interval shoot setting in Zimbabwe for a timelapse of the Milkyway - came out ok. Happy to send you the timelapse and edited photos I used to create it :).
It's worth giving it a go!! It takes some time but its well worth it when you get a good one at the end of it! As always, thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated! 😁👍
Thanks so much! Yes. When you keep it the same, you can then edit to your liking afterwards and you won't get any weird changes through the sequence. 😁👍
Hello Mike - nice tutorial. Does the same ramping timelapse function exist on the A7R2 and A7R3 and will the ramping work automatically in reverse if the shot goes from sunset right the way through night and sunrise? Thanks
Thanks Bevan, It is definitely not on the A7r2...and I'm not sure if it is on the A7r3...I don't have one so couldn't comment. In the A73 it will work the other way round, so you can do this in reverse for a sunrise. 👍
Hi Mike, what a great video many thanks. I will try it out this week. One question though, you say to use widest aperture, but would this be the case even if I was using a 24mm f/1.4 lens? That seems crazy wide and maybe a bit overkill for a landscape timelapse. Many thanks again and great channel!
No worries, glad I could help. When you got into the depths of the night, you will need all the light you can get...the best bet is to try it out and see what results you can get. It also depends on how much man made light is about...I had all the city lights here so I had a bit of an advantage, butif you're in the middle of nowhere, you will need to open everything up for the transition into night time. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography yeah, it does makes sense in that respect - I mostly do astrophotography and once the current moon cycle ends I'll be trying out golden hour to total darkness. Any time lapse I've done in the past has always just started and ended in darkness. thanks again.
I'm not a english native, but i like the way you prononce every single letter and the speed of your talk, i understand almost everything :ok:
That’s awesome!! I’m glad You can understand almost everything I’m saying...if it helps, you can turn on subtitles as well to help.
If there’s anything you’re not sure about, you can always email me and I’ll help as much as possible. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks a lot for all the tips and for answering :)
Just keep going like that for your vidéos :ok:
I’m watching this 3 years after and this video gave me the knowledge I needed to continue this Timelapse’s fascination I have. I’ve been having some trouble controlling some things and it taught me things I didn’t know. 🙏🏾
Great to hear I could help!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
After watching 100s of tutorials on Holi Grail Time-lapses I have no doubt to say that this is the most thorough and well explained tutorial. Especially for Sony users.
Thank you Mike. Very Grateful 😊
That's great to hear! Thanks so much! The holy grail TL is a sort after beast that is sometimes hard to conquer!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
This is best time-lapse video tutorial for Sony on the whole wide wen. The whole wide web!
Thanks very much Lotny! 😁👍
Hi Mike, I’ve just shot my first day to night timelapse using your exact methods and it worked like a dream, I didn’t detect any flickers at all. No need for LR Timelapse any more. I didn’t have my tripod with me but set it up on a gimble and, of course, there was slight movement in the framing of each photo. I’ve tried to stabilise in Davinci Resolve without much success. I’ll definitely use a tripod next time. The timelapse was shot in Brisbane Australia so the sun sets pretty quickly here. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into your videos to make them informative, interesting and entertaining too.
That's great to har Bill! It is amazing that even when gimbals have been calibrated, the amount of drift you get over time. That has happened with all of the gimbals I have owned over the years. Great to hear you got something useable from it though.
I've often thought of trying to get some astrophotography pics from a moving boat with the use of a gimbal ... maybe one day when I get my super-yacht!! 😆😆
Thanks for your kind words and thanks for watching 😁👍
Like many comments already submitted, I watched your channel and enjoyed expanding my knowledge/abilities thanks to your videos years ago. After several frustrating failed attempts to capture a day-to-night Holy Grail Timelapse using a buggy German dongle, my search led me back to this channel and video. First time out, flawless capture! Thank you very much. Not sure if you are still collecting data as mentioned in the video, but I am happy to share my info/files if you are! My TL was shot in the middle of San Francisco Bay from Alcatraz Island National Park. Thanks again!
I've just bought the Sony A6600 and never knew that you could shoot a "Holy Grail" timelapse straight from the a camera. I'm amazed!! Thanks so much for this invaluable tutorial and for explaining it so well.
No worries Bill, great to hear I could help! The A6600 is a great little camera ... I have one as well and take it out to shoot when I want to travel super light.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
What a great tutorial mike! You make It so easy to understand! and at the same time very thecnical! The best i've seen on RUclips! Congrats!
Thanks so much Julian!! 😁👍
Just want to say thank you so much for being an inspiration and great teacher. I’ve learned so much from you and I give you credit for what I’ve learned. Thank you and don’t ever stop helping us.
I haven't visted your channel for ages as it is mostly for beginners. Now I came back for the Timelapse information and have to say, that you are the only one so far who is really explaining it in your different videos so that it is possible to understand it technically and what the different settings mean. Thanks a lot!
No worries. Great to hear my videos are stil helping, and still a resource to come back to.
Thanks for watching 👍
Very good videos and tutorials, I am just a beginner and these videos are helping people like us a lot. Thanks You
Thank you! This video was very pleasant to listen to and follow along!
Thanks very much Jessica. 😁👍
I am new with a7iii. I will try follow your instruction and share with you. Thank for this episode.
am from glasgow too, your videos are amazing thank you!
Great to hear you like them!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Very in depth and helpful Mike! Thanks for taking the time to break this down!
No worries, I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching Brady! 😁👍
great video. I'm wondering what did you do with the white balance cause I tried to do it once but my white balance looked like 💩
I forgot to mention white balance in this video. 🤦🏻♂️
I set it to manual daylight balanced.
Then edit in post.
You gotta tweak and tune it until you get it right.
Used some of your other Astro photography videos to shoot the milky way while on vacation earlier this month. I did use the intervalometer but it was all night shots, I want to try the day to night and night to early morning tho! I’m new to a good quality camera so always learning, appreciate the help I get from your channel!
That's great to hear! I'm glad my tutorials are helping! It's well worth trying...I'm going to do a day to astro time-lapse to put in the editing video...it'll be interesting to see how it copes with that!
Thanks for watching! 👍
Thank you so much, as a beginner I learned quite a lot from this video! Can't wait to get started!
That's awesome to hear!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I just wanna go out to shoot timelaps. And I did't know the interval effect the speed how turns day to night. I thought only the lenght of the timelaps only count. Thanks for explain it this 10,6,3sec video! Helpful! Can't wait to try out!
No worries Daniel, I'm glad I could help. 😁👍
Hi Mike, great video. Just a tip I noticed, if you shoot in 16:9 the raw images will still be full size 3:2 so framing in 16:9 has no drawbacks that I can think of.
Thanks for the info Dane, yep this is true, I just prefer to look at the 3x2 aspect ratio so I can see the whole image and work out which part of the image I am going to use...although every now and then, I completely forget about this and then am too cropped in with the final shot. Having it in 16x9 is a great way not to forget this!
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
I’ll try with my a7C
Thanks so much
I’ve learned so much in few minutes
Great to hear Mr Lamb! The A7C is a fantastic little camera ... I use mine all the time now.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks for the video! I'm gonna try these settings from Hong Kong tonight and see if I come up with anything useful.
Excellent! Hong Kong should be great for these! 😁👍
Your tutorials are so clear and easy to follow. I make the A7III firmware upgrade with your tutorial, Thanks.!!
Thanks so much! I'm glad I could help! 😁
As always thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated 👍
Good video. I have played with a few Timelapse’s with various degrees of success. This really helps explain some of the logic and settings well.
Great to hear it has helped Eddie. There are a lot of little nuances in timelapses that are really important to get right.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Amazing Tutorial! Thank you very much!
No worries Greg, thanks for watching 😁👍
This is exactly the information I was looking for! Thank you so much for sharing it!
No problem, I'm glad I could help.
Thanks for watching. 👍
Another good video with lots of useful tricks ...Thanks Mike...
As always thanks Patrick, much appreciated!! 😁👍
Been surfing RUclips for the A7iii night timelapse... Thank you for putting this together. Will be putting this to use in Hawaii next week. Stoked!
That's awesome! Let me know how you get on!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I have the a7r3 and love it. Yet to do time lapse and have a job request coming up. I've watched other videos and yours is by far the best tutorial. I'm sure I will need to watch a couple more times to get the math down. Going to experiment tonight. Appreciate the help!
Thanks so much! The timelapse function is definitely a great addition to this camera!! ... and once you get a good timelapse, it can get quite addictive!
Thanks for watching and let me know how you get on! 😁👍
So grateful, thanks for sharing, explained so well
Best video on holy grail timelapse :) Easy to digest and beautifully done
Thats an excellent presentation clear and very helpful thank you
Thanks very much! 😁👍
Thanks for very detailed explanation
No worries, I hope it has helped! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography it sure did. 👍
Great tutorial - was very helpful. Followed your easy to follow instructions to create my own first timelapse video of sunset to nighttime.
That's great to hear!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Great video! Small question: what about white balance? Thanks
I try a few different white balance levels.
Sometimes I'll put it in between the tow extremes and then balance it out with key frames in Premier Pro or After Effects.
wow that was by far the Best tutorial on timelapse. You gave the details that really help! thanks!
Great to hear!! This was a fun one to do and I learned a lot in making it as well! 😁👍
Hi Mike, me again, I watched your tutorial again and have noted the the key points you’ve mentioned: the interval priority on / off for day to night Timelapse, hence I would like to know it is better to set interval priority on or off in this case? Many thanks
Randy from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Super post, Mike! Lots to absorb. Haven’t tried timelapse yet, but will retain this vid and make a cheat sheet from it for reference. Good illustration of Photopills real life use. Array of settings seems ripe for assigning to one of the memory mode dials. Involving your viewers via their downloads is a wonderful addition.
Thanks so much Paul...Photopills is by far my favourite photo app, although I'm trying planit pro and the photographers ephemeris at the mo to see if there's anything better out there...might even make a comparison video on those three as well! 😁
If you're doing it a lot it would definitely be worth assigning a memory mode position for it.
I was thinking it would be great to get a whole load of time lapses from around the world...it'll be interesting to see the different ones everyone sends in...I just hope my dropbox account can handle it all!!
😁👍
Thanks Mike, a few years old but still an excellent and relevant video. I did some more experimenting and testing on this feature in various modes for others that may have my questions. I shoot a lot of sunset into astro timelapse which requires a huge change in exposure to Speed, Aperture and ISO. I start at usual daylight settings of say 1/125th, F8, ISO100 but by night time 2 hrs later I need 8.0 secs, F1.2 and ISO3200. The problem is almost every mode locks the Aperture at whatever you start with therefore as it gets darker you can never get enough light because your aperture is locked at F8 or whatever you started with. This equals dismal failure - EXCEPT?
EXCEPT when you use Speed (S) Mode. In S mode you set the shutter speed to whatever works during daylight and as it gets darker, the aperture becomes wider and wider until the limit of your lens is reached. Then start increasing your shutter speed during the shoot bit by bit until you get to your 8 or 10 secs that you need in the dark. If your ISO is set to Auto, it then starts increasing the ISO as it gets darker. If you had your ISO locked in at say 100 originally, then you can increase the ISO during the shoot until you get to about 3200. Once you get to around 8 or 10 secs with your ISO at around 3200 (either auto ISO or manually), then you can walk away and enjoy a warm coffee in the dark while it does the rest. It works extremely well with little to no flicker.
You can also choose whether you want a constant shoot interval, say 10 secs, right from the start and just adjust shutter speed as you go OR let the shutter speed override the interval as you go. This just results in different time effects during playback and is a personal choice. Be aware that Shoot interval priority is locked in the default off setting so your selected shutter speed will always override your Shooting interval.
Thanks for the info Levin!
Do you use LRtimelapse at all in this process to get a completely smooth transition?
Also, do you use the interval function in camera or an external intervalometer?
Thanks for watching 👍
@@mikesphotography No Worries Mike, happy to help out as it is difficult to find detailed info about this feature. Everyone says you can do it and then just repeats the info in the Sony manual. Your video is the only one I could find that gave a really good explanation of HOW to use it in real life so thanks for that.
All this was done using the internal Sony Interval Shooting Function. No external intervalometers at all. I do have and use Edelkrone heads and sliders which will be my next experiment but everything mentioned is with the camera only.
Yes I still use LR timelapse pro for all my timelapse work but my tests indicated that while using the auto ISO, it get a little flicker but LRT was easily able to reduce it to virtually nothing. The flicker is caused by the occasional change in ISO between a few images when it is on the cusp of needing to change. It might be at ISO 200 and then one image will be at ISO250 then the next back to 200. You might get this jumping of ISO for say 3 in 10 images until it darkens enough to lock it at 250 until the next auto change. While the luminance value barely changes it is enough to just cause a little flicker.
When I used a set ISO of 100 and then increased it manually as needed (once the aperture had opened completely and I had extended the speed out to 10sec), I ended up with no flicker at all and LRT didn't really have to do anything. The down side of changing the ISO manually is towards the end I had an interval of 11secs with a shutter speed of 10secs. Therefore the shutter is open and the screen is blank for 10 seconds. When you open the ISO window and change it, you can't see anything because the screen is blank taking the photo. It will change the ISO successfully between shots but you really need to know how to do that by feel and have a deep understanding of which buttons and how many turns to change it to your desired setting because it is all done blind. There is now only a 1 second window between shots to confirm your changes. This is also not great while the shutter is open as you can introduce image blur because you are shaking it when changing the settings. I tried using the Sony Imaging Edge Mobile app to control the camera during this so I wouldn't have to touch it and make all changes remotely from the app but the moment you invoke the Intvl Shooting Func, it kicks the app off line and won't have a bar of it. Pity because it would make the perfect solution.
So the best result was using manual ISO but it is challenging. Auto ISO still gave an excellent result after I ran it through LRTimelapse. Results can be viewed at ruclips.net/channel/UC_WA_CFINHy24j679Wno_8w Sorry for the long reply.
Thank you Mike, that was very helpful.
Great to hear! 😁👍
dude, been looking for a video that explained if the auto exposure ramping in the sonys worked well or not, you are the first one that demonstrated it! thanks!
No worries, I'm glad I could help! 😁👍
Thank you so much for sharing this setting technique. On AV mode, the camera will automatically adjust ISO + Shutter speed in associated with the light changing. However, we have to decide what "F value" we would go for? Does is matter to push the brightest aperture as we are shooting from Day to Night? and How about shooting from Night to Dawn and welcoming the Sun rise? What F value you might suggest?
Great video I wonder is this a setting that can be saved in one of those custom settings?
That's a good question ... and I am not sure ... maybe I'll try it next time I am out.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Astounding. And a great tutorial on Timelapse with a guided tutorial no where so elaborate on RUclips. Thank you. For this. But I have Fuji XT4 camera. If you can give some settings for XT4, for Timelapse I shall be thankful.
Thanks very much. Unfortunately I don't own the XT4 so I can't help.
Sorry.
Thanks for watching anyway 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I am saving this tutorial as my reference. 👍👏🏽🙏🏽
Thanks! You did a great job on this one.
Thanks very much 😁👍
VERY good info, ESPECIALLY showing us the difference bin settings. I see the advantages of the shooting Interval Priority on or off. Thanks so much for the tips.
No worries, I'm glad I could help. 😁👍
I did a Milky Way to sunrise timelapse a couple weeks ago using manual exposure adjustments to run through LRT. I failed with the manual lens as changing aperture (which I did) on the manual lens is not recorded and LRT couldn't handle the changes smoothly. Thanks for this, next time I will use the interval and and auto iso method you outlined here.
Hi Chris,
Yep, try the auto iso and interval method next time and see how you get on. The auto iso will hopefully smooth out the transitioning lighting conditions successfully next time.
Let me know how you get on! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Here is the fail if you're interested. I'm not too heartbroken as the sunrise light never materialized and my singles came out very good. ruclips.net/video/lMvEBeJ-le4/видео.html
Hi Mike! AMAZING tutorial again. Can you please follow up with the sunset to star timelapse video that you mentioned in this tutorial? Your work is amazing and I will be very interested in it!
Thank you very much!
Thanks so much Eduardo! As soon as we're allowed back outside, I'll definitely make that tutorial!! I'm going a little bit crazy being stuck indoors at the moment!! Can't wait for the curfew to be over!!
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
From a fellow Foos fan, love the videos.
just like your Time Lapses...cool
Thanks very much! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I think you face challenges about low light grains n noises, would you please tell how to resolve this issue, I am using sony A7c. which colour profile give less noise in production. Thanks again for your video that is really helpful.
Never used time-lapse, however enjoy listing to your generous sharing knowledge. I own Nikon D750. Thanks Mike.
Thanks so much Abraham!
Timelapses are quite time consuming but are great fun when you get a good one!
The Nikon’s already have an intervalometer built in don’t they?
Thanks
Easy start is for example shooting melting of ice cube. Shooting interval 1 second. Windows movie maker might be enough for first tests. Or some other free SW.
rockynook.com/article/time-lapse-photography-for-the-nikon-d750/
That is defintiely a good one to do...unless you live in a really cold country!! 😆
I'm going to try out some different bits of software to put timelapses together for people without adobe very soon. 👍
RUclips needs more professionals like this man. Immediate sub!
Thanks so much for the kind words...and for the sub! 😁 Welcome to the community!
Lots more to come as well! 😁👍
fantastic video Mike. Very helpful.
Thanks so much Aaron! I’m glad it has helped! 😁👍
Another great tutorial. I'd like to know if there is a way to view your timelapse clip in-camera as a video?
Thanks very much!
You can't view it as a video, but if you select tab no.4 (the blue tab in the menu), and then go to page 4/4 it should have cont. PB for intvl option. this should give you a choppy playback giving you an idea of how the timelapse might look.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks for your response, Mike.
Great tips! Thank you!
And thanks for watching David! 😁👍
This is absolutely the best and most in depth timelapse day tutorial i have seen. And i have watched a lot. I would like to join in and send a day to night timelapse. I just got a Sony A7 III two days ago, and would like to give it a try. Good stuff! Keep it up.
Thanks so much, that would be great. If you can email me at mike@boxheadmike.com, I'll send you a link to upload the time-lapse to when you get the chance to make one.
Thanks for watching and commenting and offering to join in, Much appreciated! 😁
@@mikesphotography finally manage to make one. The weather has been terrible last two weeks. I have send you a mail.
Awesome, I’ll check it out ASAP! Thanks so much for sending it through. 😁👍
Thank you sir, this tutorial is very detail and resourceful.
Excellent, I'm glad you like it!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Great time lapse video!
Thanks very much!
Great video Mike! As usual! Greetings from Greece, and I'll see what I can do about that timelapse. A7iii / Tamron 28-75 here. You are, by far, my favorite tutorial source for this camera, and for photography in general! Keep it up. Thank you!
Thanks so much! I'm glad my tutorials are helping!! The tamron is a fantastic lens ins't it, I'm looking at getting the 17-28mm really soon!
Thanks for watching! 😁
Thanks for the video Mike. What I'm looking for in a timelapse, if it shows the sky, is the movement of the clouds that ads interest to the shoot. I like the 3 sec interval. Oh by the way, it's great that clouds appear in your timelapse made here in UAE.
I waited for a cloud seeding day before shooting that one!! 😆
I do have a video on timelapses for clouds specifically as well, check it out when you have a chance: ruclips.net/video/D7lRvJdC3fg/видео.html
Thanks for watching 😁👍
This was helpful! Thank you. !!!!
No worries, thanks for watching! 😁👍
Thanks, great video ! Just want to add thought, you should mention the setting to turn off the screen light, so your battery can make it till the end !
That's a good point Marc... Although I've never really had a problem with the batteries.
Thanks for the tip. 😁👍
How you turn off the screen...? I never find this option! I can decrease the light but not turn off.
Super easy to understand, really well explained!
Thanks very much! 😁👍
Very well explained. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Mike. Thanks so much for this amazing tutorial. This makes it so much easier compared to what we needed before to do time lapse. I just created my first time lapse and I’m very happy with the result, however to go for the best quality you need some serious processing power. Thanks again and all the best to you!
Hi Reiner,
Great to hear it has helped.
You're right...I normally edit the photos for a timelapse and then leave my computer alone whilst it process them...and come back a few hours later...it is definitely a longer workflow than just shooting video or stills that's for sure.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
That was great, thank you!!
No worries, thanks for watching. 😁👍
This is great stuff! I'll go out this evening right away!
Awesome! Let me know how you get on! 😁👍
Well, the day to night timelapse wasn't that great, but I went out very early last week to shoot a sunrise. But there is a lot of flickering, don't have a program like 'LRtimelapse' yet (but then again, I use On1 and not Lightroom). But afterwards I noticed I had the dial put on P and not A, so maybe that explains some flickering as well.
Here's a link if you're interested. I shot it in the northern part of the Netherlands.
ruclips.net/video/x5pQ-FcOJRA/видео.html
Great video! Did you ever post the holy grail with milky way shot test? I tried looking through your videos but didn't see it.
Thanks David! Unfortunately since then, as well as the pandemic, we moved to Bangkok...a place that isn't great for dark skies!! 😆🤦🏻♂️
When we get to travel again, I am hoping to be able to get somewhere dark again to shoot the holygrail sequence, just to see if it works with this setup...I have an epic place in mind in Indonesia, I just hope the borders open up again soon!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography sounds good! I just picked up the A7iii a couple of weeks ago and will be giving this a shot sometime next month.
Super interesting! I‘m not sure if I will ever do a timelapse, but if I now know how to do it. Thank you!
No worries, if you ever do, you know where to get all the info for it!!
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
This was an amazing video!!!!!
Thanks so much Jake! 😃👍
Great informative video. Best explanation and presentation I've seen.
Thanks so much Michael, glad you enjoyed it! 😁👍
Thank you for every single tutorial. I enjoy all of it. The only thing I can't find is how to edit day to night timelapse in LR. Because day - golden hour - night is different how am I going to work that out? Your help much appreciated.
Thanks very much!!
That is a good point...I tend to balance out the colours between the two as much as possible in lightroom and then add a varying colour temperature in the video editor. The other way to do it is to get LRtimelapse, this will give you the results you are looking for.
lrtimelapse.com/
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I have looked at the LRtimelapse as paid software. First I will try LR manually if not works we have to buy the software. Thank you for your reply.
Very nice video, detailed and very well explained as always!
I like the way that you present your subjects in a calm way so that one can pleasantly follow you without stretching his nerves!
Just one question. You do not mention anything about the aperture that you use. I see that it is F4. Any comments about it? Do you rather prefer an open aperture? Does it make any difference?
Thanks so much Sortiris! I just open it upas much as possible... as the darker it gets, the more light you need to let in to your camera. So get it as wide as possible and you'll get better night shots at the end of the timelapse.
Hello Mike, I see your videos again and again, as they are so helpful.
At point 8:30 you change the shooting interval priority to on. I think that this is not necessasry as the ISO auto min ss is set to 4 sec while the shooting interval is 6 sec. Don't you agree?
Thanks so much! 😁 That is true, although in the example I give, it definitely does change the speed of the timelapse as it gets darker so just showing the differences between the two.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks a lot Mike for creating this great tutorial. Everything is well explained and easy to unterstand. You're the best !
Thanks so much! I have lots of fun creating these tutorials so there are plenty more to come!! Go check out my channel and subscribe if you haven't already! 😁👍
Thanks for this great video, Mike! On my side I strongly struggle with an issue with intervallometer Auto-exposure (on a6400) for timelapsing stars. The 1st shot is properly exposed, then all the other shots are way too underexposed. Any idea on how to avoid this? (settings used: A mode, min auto iso SS 30 sec, AE tracking sensitivity=low, interval priority=off)
Very helpful video! Thanks 🙏
Glad it was helpful Stephan!
Thank yor for all your videos.
I have a very stupid question... How to make a timelapse (in which program) from these 2000 photos?
Not a stupid question at all...you can do it in photoshop, quicktime, windows moviemaker and lots of other programs.
I have a video to show you how I do it: ruclips.net/video/FQduVS3iO3E/видео.html
Check it out when you get the chance.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography 🙏🏻 thank you, just starting my path of photography and videography with a7iii. Today bought DJI RSC2, can’t wait for it)
Hi Mike. I rarely leave comments on anyone's videos but I just wanted to tell you I tried your technique for the Sony a6500 but the steps/exposure adjustments were too drastic. Maybe its because my Sony crop-sensor camera is just too limiting for this?
The first time lapse of a sunset I created last week was done using a variable ND filter (K&F Concept ND8-ND128 (3-7 Stop)) and on full Manual mode. I set my intervalometer to an interval of 4 seconds and a "Long" of 4 seconds. Then on my camera, I set a shutter speed of 2 frames per second, thus preserving the 180 degree shutter rule. I set the Aperture to f/11 on my new Sony 24-70 mm f/2.8 GM II lens, set the ISO to Auto, and set the White Balance to Auto, with Manual focus. The problem I found was once the sun was below the horizon, the exposure darkened considerably (due to the variable ND filter I had set to about the 6th stop) and the Auto ISO (100-1600) that I had set maxed out quite early. I was able to salvage this time lapse by creating two separate videos - one of the actual sunset, and one of the blue hour to night time. In the blue hour time lapse, I increased the exposure and highlights (as well as other enhancements) in the last frame and synced it with all of the other earlier frames to produce a usable video in Final Cut Pro. In the sunset time lapse, I decreased the exposure and highlights and was able to create something that worked right up until the sun dipped below the horizon line. However, there was noticeable flickering, which made me wonder if it was due to Auto White Balance I had set? (or maybe Auto ISO?).
Earlier tonight, I tried another time lapse. This time I ditched the ND filter and chose Aperture Priority mode. Unfortunately there was too much flickering for this to be usable. I once again used an interval of 4 seconds and this time I opened the Aperture to the widest setting (f/2.8) on my new Sony 24-70 mm f/2.8 GM II lens, set the ISO to Auto, and set the White Balance to Daylight, with Manual focus. However, while playing the frames back, I noticed some lightening/darkening between frames, and thus more flickering. This was due to different shutter speeds I believe, stepping up or down to compensate for the available light.
In the Sony a6500 there is no AE Tracking Sensitivity for still photographs (along with no interval shooting feature).
Is there a way to avoid flickering or steps with Aperture Priority in this specific camera (the Sony a6500)? Or is my best bet to go with Manual with an ND filter?
I want to avoid using specialized software such as LRTimelapse 6 as well.
I know the Sony Alpha full frame cameras don't exhibit this flickering/step issue in shooting time lapses in Aperture Priority mode (at least with the A7III or A7RIII like you said), so is my camera simply too limiting for making these intervalometer-assisted time lapses?
Thanks for any help.
🙏
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your detailed comment. The main problem is that like you said, the a6500 doesn't have the AE tracking sensitivity as well as the interval function. In this function, the camera seems to be able to control the aperture blades better than for individual images taken with an external intervalometer.
When shooting timelapses with modern lenses, the minute changes in the aperture blades cause the flickering you are talking about and the only real way to get rid of them is to process the sequence through LRtimelapse.
When I made this video, I was expecting the flickering to still be there, so I was surprised to see there was very little flickering in the final timelapse. I think in the interval mode, the camera sets the aperture and then keeps it in one place (but that's just my thoughts on why it isn't as pronounced).
I'd say with your current setup, the best way to get smooth looking timelapses, is to get LRtimelapse ... or shoot them when the exposure doesn't change as much.
I hope that helps and thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I appreciate the response. I tried a few more time lapses since with this camera of mine, going fully manual with a Shade white balance and 400 ISO, along with the Manual setting, to go along with an aperture of f/8, and a shutter speed of 2 seconds with a 4 second interval. I also used a variable ND filter at an ND8/3 stop. No flickering whatsoever! Obviously when the light decreased rapidly, the image all went dark, except for the street and house lights. But in this method, I could still shoot sunset time lapses without having to go into LRTimelapse. And of course shooting RAW with my limited mirrorless camera is always better than the S&Q settings when it comes to quality, right? I may try the S&Q function though before I completely write it off, just to see the differences though.
Thanks for making so many detailed videos and in-depth tutorials. I'm definitely going to upgrade to a full-frame camera in '23. One question, does the Sony A7S III (a "videocentric" mirrorless) also perform as well as the A7R III/IV or AR III/IV with flicker-free, Aperture priority interval shooting?
Good one Mike. Lot of things to learn from here. After watching this I think I know nothing about video settings of a7iii 😀
Haha!! I’m sure you know a little about video settings! 👍
Thanks so much for watching and commenting dude. 😁
@@mikesphotography my pleasure :)
Thank u ❤️ but I love your t shirt .. 😊favorite band
Rock on! 🤘 It's all about the foos!! 😁👍
Nice time lapse...I’m just beginning to experiment with them so I got a few good tips here, and I love Astro photography as well! I’m hoping to get an Astro time lapse in soon..before winter sets in ha! Not sure if you’ve done earlier tutorials on Astro, if not hope there’s more in future.
Thanks so much Susan,
I’m glad you got something from this.
I haven’t done a video on astro timelpases...yet...but I have lots of other astrophotography tutorials...check out this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLDhXA9nCkoqYeOxFC6W5hh9_AW6mapILI
Also I have all of my tutorials in alphabetical order and genres to make it easier to find what your looking for: www.boxheadmike.com/youtubelinks/
Thanks 😁
Have you experimented with different metering modes? I just tried a sunset timelapse and used spot metering, then put the spot on the sky thinking that'd be best. But the foreground gets lighter as it attempts to keep the same sky brightness...obviously 🙄 but putting the spot on the ground might also look odd, since it should naturally get darker, not stay the same. Is multi metering best?
Hi William,
I haven't had a chance to experiment with the metering modes in this setting yet...I might have to give it a go when I do get out for some more timelapse sequences though.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography ahh ok. Thanks for the reply. Last night I did another one, with multi metering. It seemed to have some large steps in brightness where the iso suddenly jumps up and the exposure length didn't seem to come back down enough. Ahh well, it's reasonably fun tweaking these settings to find the best combination.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Great vids Mike! Question about this technique.....I followed these in structures. With 30sec exposure, 30 sec shoot interval and 30sec auto iso with limit of 8000. Apature priority, 1 stop under exposure compensation. My goal was milky way then sunrise. The first image of the interval shoot was perfect with 2500 auto iso at 30sec so I walked away and let it go for 500 shots. But I found after that first shot the iso dropped to 250 and lower for the rest of the interval shoot making all the milky way images 3 stops under exposed. Why did this happen ?
I'm not sure why this happened. I have heard of a lot of problems with the iso changing or not going to the max that people have set. I am moving to a dark location really soon so I am going to try out exactly what you have done and make a video on it later in the year ... and try to figure it out once and for all ... it seems as though people have issues with big exposure changes and the camera not doing what it is told to do.
With this one that I did, the city lights meant that the night time shots weren't that dark compared to a milkyway location.
You have know idea how this video is helpful, thank you!
That's great to hear!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Mike. Great video! I’m just learning now about using time lapse on my A7III. You mentioned a video you would create towards the end of this video showing different day to night scenarios including astro. Did you make this video? Would be very interested to see it. Cheers.
Thanks so much Shahzad! I haven't made it yet...I didn't quite get enough different timelapses from different locations to make a decent video...maybe once we're allowed to travel again, we'll get more together. 😁👍
At 12:47 in you mention you’ll go over the processing for day to night, but I havn’t found it. Still going through videos though, there are worse things to do with my time ;-) Thanks for this info - i was looking at a device that would perform the bulb ramping but if the built in settings work this well, you just saved me a ton of cash.
That's a good point Chase...I had planned to shoot that one, but a few months after this covid hit...and then we moved countries...so haven't had a chance to shoot all of the time lapses that I wanted to for that video...it's still on the cards but I need to get out of the city first to get the stills needed.
Thanks for reminding me...I'll add it to the list of things to shoot in the near future.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks, Mike. Those are obviously all, very good reasons ;-) No worries, I just thought I was missing it, as I found the video very late and there were many more after. But, have something to look forward to. Take care.
How did you manage to get 3, 5 & 10 second sample... do you have 3 a7iii with same lens? As always good video and info
I wish I had three cameras with the same lenses! 😆 I shot them over three days form the same location changing the interval for each one...if you look closely you can see the 3 second one has clouds whereas the others haven't.
As always, thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated!! 😁👍
Wow 3 days in a row... same timing and location.... in Malaysia we call it... adesss.. hahahah awesome bro..
Haha!! Thanks dude! Luckily this is off my balcony so I just put the camera outside the front of our apartment and then let it run!! :-)
Your videos are always brilliant!
Thanks so much Fasih! 😁👍
Amazing video Mike !
The only video with so much detail about this feature. I watched it many time and I'm still struggling with one things.
The difference between the interval priority on/off. i would love to see a graph with 2 curves : Shutter speed and ISO. On horizontal of the graph would be the light value decreasing and in vertical the value of the ISO and the shutter speed (as the focal stay constant there is no need to show it). I'm sure this would make my little brain understanding it faster :)
Let me know if you are able to help me with this :)
Thank you in advance
Laurent
That would be a good way to show it!! Far too technical for me though...sounds like a challenge for Gerald Undone!! He'd be well into getting that kind of detail from a camera setting!! 😁👍
great video thank you
Thanks very much!
Another great video, Mike! Great and useful explanation 👌
Thanks so much Luis! 😁👍
As always, a great video Mike :). I tried out the interval shoot setting in Zimbabwe for a timelapse of the Milkyway - came out ok. Happy to send you the timelapse and edited photos I used to create it :).
Very interesting. But I have yet to have a chance to use it. 😊
What I am also very interested in is how to make day-to-night photographs.
It's worth giving it a go!! It takes some time but its well worth it when you get a good one at the end of it!
As always, thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated! 😁👍
GREAT video.... im going to test here in Brazil ;)
btw... love the shirt
Thanks so much Bhrisha!! It's all about the Foos! 😁👍
Great tutorial. Thanks for this. You kept the White Balance fixed, right? No AWB?
Thanks so much!
Yes. When you keep it the same, you can then edit to your liking afterwards and you won't get any weird changes through the sequence. 😁👍
Hello Mike - nice tutorial. Does the same ramping timelapse function exist on the A7R2 and A7R3 and will the ramping work automatically in reverse if the shot goes from sunset right the way through night and sunrise? Thanks
Thanks Bevan,
It is definitely not on the A7r2...and I'm not sure if it is on the A7r3...I don't have one so couldn't comment.
In the A73 it will work the other way round, so you can do this in reverse for a sunrise. 👍
Very very very intresting subject. Thanks for giving us your thoughts on the matter Mike!
And thank you for watching and commenting, much appreciated! 😁👍
Excellent video tutorial, what I was looking for... thank you ★★★★★
And thank you for watching and commenting, much appreciated! 😁👍
really nice tuto! but i have just a question about the white balance? you change it in post with Premiere pro? thanks!
Thanks Pierre; sometimes I make changes in Lightroom, and then finish it off in premier pro.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Hi Mike, what a great video many thanks. I will try it out this week. One question though, you say to use widest aperture, but would this be the case even if I was using a 24mm f/1.4 lens? That seems crazy wide and maybe a bit overkill for a landscape timelapse. Many thanks again and great channel!
No worries, glad I could help.
When you got into the depths of the night, you will need all the light you can get...the best bet is to try it out and see what results you can get.
It also depends on how much man made light is about...I had all the city lights here so I had a bit of an advantage, butif you're in the middle of nowhere, you will need to open everything up for the transition into night time.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography yeah, it does makes sense in that respect - I mostly do astrophotography and once the current moon cycle ends I'll be trying out golden hour to total darkness. Any time lapse I've done in the past has always just started and ended in darkness. thanks again.