There are still a couple one or two off parts being made today, but at least they are part of a system... I'm thinking of like the Boost or Spike Essentials hubs.
I wouldn't be surprised if those capacitors lost capacity over time, and new, perhaps a higher Farad rating capacitors, would make those racers last longer per charge.
I fondly remember the japanese afols used the track pieces as highways in their train displays, Edit, if you were to say put a traction tyre on, like the old 1980s train motors, would that increase the wheel diameter of small one enough to clear the railhead?
This is actually a really good question. I think if you had the same tire thickness, it would work, especially if you put it on the front wheels as well. The actual issue here is whether or not the tires will stay on the wheels: the 4.5v/12v train wheels have a reverse taper such that the tires stay on, whereas the town train wheels a normal taper.
I picked up the track racer parts... but have had similar issues.. need to go back and re-test to see if it's motor, or capacitor that's at fault (I have a feeling the motors in mine were fine, and I might need to replace the cap!)
I don't think we say it in the video, but I think it's good that they used a capacitor instead of a battery... way easier to replace than some tiny LiPo, and you could conceivably upgrade it too.
You can probably make curves and switches the same way we did the narrow gauge switches, but I'm not sure the UCS Hogwarts is designed to run in anything other than a static fashion: ruclips.net/user/shortswRBzkEJz2tA?feature=share
NW do you got any tips and ideas on how I can get started at making realistic Lego trains I have like two train sets one is a Lego new Morden train set and the other is a old train set that I had a long time ago and I lost the pieces because of my older bother messed up with the Lego pieces.
The thing that really helped me was to use an engineering drawing and scale it to bricks (ie at ~1:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/LGeKqPNUhWY/видео.htmlfeature=shared). After that it's really just about doing reps. It definitely gets easier after doing a few, and sometimes you can reuse elements you used in the past (ie the same roof profile on my MP36, F40C, F40PH). Especially with more complicated drivetrains you just have to build a few to get a sense of what works and what doesn't particularly with respect to how much structural reinforcement various configurations need to be reliable.
Actually if you ask me, screws are the rule rather than the exception. In the Power Functions era all of the remotes and the AAA box had screws. The Powered Up hub has screws. The Control Plus AA box was retrofitted with screws, which is super annoying.
When I discovered this set, I couldn't believe how obscure something this complexe is. They just did it and never tried again
There are still a couple one or two off parts being made today, but at least they are part of a system... I'm thinking of like the Boost or Spike Essentials hubs.
RR Slugger is going to have enlarged eyes seeing this 👀
so we had official motorized narrow gauge all along?
Perhaps more of "we have official motorized narrow gauge at home" lol
Can't wait for Larry to learn about this
That is actually a great review of a Drome Racers set. Drome Racers is my favourite Racers theme.
Do you plan to review the Lego Racers RC Sets?
I think it would be an interesting review, but they're also really hard/really expensive to get now. Maybe if we are able to find a cheap one!
I wouldn't be surprised if those capacitors lost capacity over time, and new, perhaps a higher Farad rating capacitors, would make those racers last longer per charge.
I fondly remember the japanese afols used the track pieces as highways in their train displays,
Edit, if you were to say put a traction tyre on, like the old 1980s train motors, would that increase the wheel diameter of small one enough to clear the railhead?
This is actually a really good question. I think if you had the same tire thickness, it would work, especially if you put it on the front wheels as well. The actual issue here is whether or not the tires will stay on the wheels: the 4.5v/12v train wheels have a reverse taper such that the tires stay on, whereas the town train wheels a normal taper.
I never knew these electric racers existed.
I never knew this set was powered, I thought it was just really strong and long lasting pull backs
I picked up the track racer parts... but have had similar issues.. need to go back and re-test to see if it's motor, or capacitor that's at fault (I have a feeling the motors in mine were fine, and I might need to replace the cap!)
I don't think we say it in the video, but I think it's good that they used a capacitor instead of a battery... way easier to replace than some tiny LiPo, and you could conceivably upgrade it too.
you should have oiled the motor bearings to free up the old motor
In retrospect, that was probably worth a shot.
Nice video. It‘s set number 8364 😊
Can't believe nobody caught that yet. Fixed!
So, does pressing the cart down just charge a capacitor or something?
Yeah basically. We originally videoed a segment explaining the operation, but it was a bit rambling and the video was already getting long.
Hey i have a question can you make rails for the ucs hogwards express please
You can probably make curves and switches the same way we did the narrow gauge switches, but I'm not sure the UCS Hogwarts is designed to run in anything other than a static fashion: ruclips.net/user/shortswRBzkEJz2tA?feature=share
So THATS whee that part came from.
NW do you got any tips and ideas on how I can get started at making realistic Lego trains I have like two train sets one is a Lego new Morden train set and the other is a old train set that I had a long time ago and I lost the pieces because of my older bother messed up with the Lego pieces.
The thing that really helped me was to use an engineering drawing and scale it to bricks (ie at ~1:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/LGeKqPNUhWY/видео.htmlfeature=shared). After that it's really just about doing reps. It definitely gets easier after doing a few, and sometimes you can reuse elements you used in the past (ie the same roof profile on my MP36, F40C, F40PH). Especially with more complicated drivetrains you just have to build a few to get a sense of what works and what doesn't particularly with respect to how much structural reinforcement various configurations need to be reliable.
I own this one :)
All my life i didnt know that set have electric parts😮
For the first time I see lego battery compartment secured with a screw. What a ridiculous idea.
Actually if you ask me, screws are the rule rather than the exception. In the Power Functions era all of the remotes and the AAA box had screws. The Powered Up hub has screws. The Control Plus AA box was retrofitted with screws, which is super annoying.
Drome Racers is such an underloved theme. I wish there was more content on it.