I just performed this repair for the p2513 Code. I did not actually have a powerloss before the repair I only had the code. I've installed the resistor, reset the light and driven it. So far the light has not come back on and the vehicle still runs find. Thank you so much for this information!
I've been searching for anyone that had solid information on this issue after many KNOW NOTHING certified diesel mechanic fanatics I found the CHANNEL that has real answers and step by step instructions that not only make sense is spot on with results Thank you Clay , you're saving people thousands and giving piece of mind TWO 👍🏻👍🏻 UP!!!!
Well, that’s really really super awesome of you to say… it truly means a lot, and I put a lot of effort in my videos monetarily they don’t pay a lot, but the satisfaction I get is worth every sacrifice I’ve made… I greatly appreciate you welcome to the channel…. Hopefully the next elections a little bit better for us so money won’t be so tight….
Wow what a response time hey Clay where can we find the resistor's you purchased? And keep up the Great Videos were going join you as well have a great weekend.
I bought mine off of Amazon. Make sure you read the description because I said the wrong thing in the video but the resistor I was using was the right one you don’t want to continuously run it that way…. And I had contemplated the same thing about the particulate filter. It won’t hurt anything to try it. I guess unless you put the positive and negative together, depending on what signal goes into the particulate filter but I’m not certain about that I will tell you, though I’ve gutted it out, particulate filters before, and it had no effect on it running By the way, if you got a spreader, you definitely want to watch my Sprinter playlist I do some sick sick stuff to Sprinter’s Man, I’ve got something new I just invented… that is going to change the Sprinter world forever… And if you ever have a question, it’s best to reach out to me on clays, aace and Auto Repair over Facebook because I don’t often see responses or comments. I tried to answer everyone that I possibly can but if you want to guarantee it answer that’s the best way to do it or you can always email me as well. Theneeclayway@gmail.Com Once again, welcome to the channel very happy to have you. I always try to help everybody. I possibly can. Thank you so much. I hope you enjoy some of the Contant not all of it. Lol nobody possibly could.
I love you, brother! 2008 Sprinter 3500 dually confirmed fix: I de-soldered a 3.5 kOhm resistor from an old circuit board and used it for my repair - turbo is back, full power, drives like new! Thank you very much!
@maxitv8242 Myself I curved the end a bit in case they wiggle. When you bend the resistor to one side and electrical tape it in place, there will be contact on the tips.
I got rid of my Merc R320cdi before seeing this video. I wish I had the chance to use this repair. I changed the Turbo, Actuator and replaced the servo module and still the limp mode persisted. Great video....would have been greater if I had repaired my car with this quick fix. Thanks...
Hi Clay thanks for a very informative and an encouraging video My main concern is after doing this hack the swirl flaps should be locked in position so they dont move causing erratic power surges. I noticed on some vehicles the flaps are made of some hard plastic like looking material,I have come across some vehicles where the flaps break and end up on the piston head causing big damage to the valves as well in this case I would recommend removing the flaps completely blocking of the shaft holes in conjunction with this hack Also you mentioned that some sprinters dont have swirl flaps that's 100% correct im based in South Africa i noticed up until 2013 the om 642 motor's do not have swirl flaps. Once again thanks have a great day and be safe
I'll be damned. It worked!! Thank you!! I just got an estimate for $5,600. I have never done anything mechanical on a vehicle and I was a bit worried I wouldn't be able to get it back together, but I managed it..
Hi , I am back from a Road test . I did follow exactly your procedure and It worked for me man Thousands of thanks. It did around 40 Kms without this horrible sign of limb mode. Continue your nice work educating us. I don’t have any mechanic experience . Regards 😘😘😘
I love it! Clay's engineering takes over where MBZ's ended. Don't worry about smog tech seeing that the swirl motor is disconnected. My smog tech told asked me, "if I knew where the EGR valve was", as he was not familiar with diesel engines. Nice guy though!
So thankful I saw this video when I did. I had already started the task of removing the intake manifolds, but before I got too far in I was able to use a 3K Ohm resistor I had laying around and it seemed to work.
Thanks brother I appreciate it. Welcome to the channel. Very happy to have you there. Some more chips that are more recent than these videos. Right now I’m currently working on a Injector removal video., side door that won’t open video. I’m literally filming that right now….. and my my best Sprinter video ever probably one of the best videos I’ve ever made about how to get a Broken glow plug out without having to remove the cylinder head when they break off inside… that one’s a little bit of way but I’ve got most of it. Filmed I just haven’t got the actual part. It’s broken off inside the cylinder head out yet but I’m working on it. I’ve got a solution that’s really kick ass. Where I use silly putty
@@sharpcarco do you have any more tips on what I should replace on a 400K om642? Had to replace the alternator so the radiator went out to reach that. Noticed the oil cooler seal while working on it and figured I might as well do as much as I can. As I mentioned Ill get a physical egr blocker, you mentioned the swirl motor to be replaced, thinking of completely removing it also, but read on the internet it gave them less power on low rpm on cold days or something? Little reluctant... How about waterpump, does it last? And should I check the turbo for play? Certain gaskets or anything other I should replace? My engine used to run perfect, the van used to be hearse and a taxi. Want to get it good for another 200K, jts my carpentry work van.
Well that’s awesome to hear Tom when you actually get ready to do them keep me in mind because I remanufacture them intakes now and I give a warranty you should check out the video that I just posted about that it is really cool have a great day glad to hear you got her back on the road
I had to do this with my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee it has the Mercedes v6 CDR , I initially was told that due to a bad turbo gasket which sits right above the motor it allowed oil to drip down onto the motor thus causing it to become defective. I found that to be a common problem with this engine and if repairing to also replace that faulty turbo gasket. I've had the bypass on for a little over a year and soon will be looking for a permanent fix. Some of the things that I have noticed since the bypass is the engine sounds like it's working harder especially at high speeds.
The swirl motor is spring-loaded with the flaps normally in the open position [Re: WK Jeep shop manual sec.9-2713] so, this modification won"t harm your engine. As a matter of fact, my Jeep came out of limp mode after just disconnecting the swirl motor and driving for about an hour though the check engine light stayed on. However, be sure that the problem isn't broken linkage. If so, you can remove the swirl motor without pulling the turbo, tie off the linkages in the open position, [you can use some wire to secure the right side linkage to one of the swirl motor mounting bolt holes, and on the left side place a clamshell-type of paper clip on the linkage to prevent closure] and put the swirl motor in your sock drawer. BTW installing a catch can, or even a dump hose will prevent the gumming and sooting up of your intakes. ;)
For the "BTW installing a catch can, or even a dump hose will prevent the gumming and sooting up of your intakes. ;) ", any pic's or diagrams on this? Aren't the gummed up intakes downstream from the turbo? If that is so, isn't there the boost pressure at those intake ports? So wouldn't a dump hose bleed off the boost pressure? Anyone have a good way to thoroughly clean the intake manifolds, especially the gummed up intake ports and the pivot points of the flaps.
I have done this for about a year ago. still work well. and I got more turbo response and a bitt more...better sound. my car is a 2007 e 320 ccdi. done about 240 000 km, not shore how itis in miles.
@maxitv8242 I did put them in as long as I coulds. then I had good tape over and around it. to make it secure. been like that since....then. no done 285 000 km.
Hi Clay, thanks for all great videos you record and share, you have no idea how much you saved for your viewers. I have 2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 with 160k miles, I believe my after market Swril motor stopped working, I exactly did what what you did on this video, but I get these two codesL P2004 and P2005, Intake Manifold Runner control Stuck Open Bank 1 and 2. Any idea how to get ride of this error so I can get it smog check?
First off thank you very much for the kind words Unfortunately, so there’s the swirl flap And then on each side of the intake, there are rail sensors if the rails are not moving more than likely it’s because they’re plugged, which is extremely common So unfortunately, there’s no fix for it without removing them entirely or reprogramming them You can send me a message to Clay ac and Auto Repair over Facebook Or you can reach out to me over email Thenewclayway@gmail.com When I originally produced this video, I wasn’t aware of that, but I’ve got a lot more experience since then
You’re very welcome I recently figured out a way to delete them and bypass the sensor it’s actually very interesting you should look it up under my Sprinter playlist. Not quite as long as this video…… sorry about that I was so excited but I wanted to build anticipation……. Some ideas are good and some aren’t so……
Great Video! BUT... The text at the bottom of your video is very distracting. I cant tell if I should be reading it or paying attention to what youre doing.
I have an issue with my 2007 UK E320 CDI, i have bought recently with 150,000 miles. I have minimal low down power. I went to do this mod and found the plug onto the swirl motor unplugged. It doesnt have a code. I plugged the resistor in and it smoked for a while and ran terribly then cut out. Any idea what it could be? I am so lost. Thank you for the great content.
I was quoted fifteen hours and $6K Canadian for this repair. "replace left side swirl valve actuator" while they were in there they were going to replace some seals and other things just cause they were in there. I haven't done the repair because my van starts and runs like clockwork. zero issues, so hard to get motivated to spend 6K. Anybody else ignored this problem away? Or does it always lead to a limp mode morning and subsequent job loss, addiction, divorce, famine, halitosis, etc..?
Well if it’s got tits or tires you’re going to have problems with it….. You cannot ignore the problem it will not go away. But you can bring it over to me here at the clayway and it’s about three grand. If that’s helpful at all…..
What does it mean while my 2007 Dodge Sprinter engine is idling the swirl motor is rattling? With this resistor fix this issue? The engine runs amazing when I clear the codes and it runs for a few days before it goes back into limp mode. Thanks!
Definitely not with the resistor in there… it will pass it though if I delete the swirl flaps for you. Because it tricks the computer into thinking that the squirrel flaps are still there and you will never have to take the Intakes out again, but in order to do that you have to take the Intakes out If you’re interested in shipping them to me, look me up on clays ac and Auto Repair on Facebook messenger send me a DM and I’ll break it down for you
This is a clever way of tricking the ECU into thinking the runner control and swirl motor are working as they should, but what is the consequence of not actually fixing the root problem over time?
Well like I mentioned in the video it is a temporary solution the build up of carbon could be bypassed and then end up inside the catalytic converter/exhaust Particulate filter. It should be fixed properly and sometimes does not work on models after 2011 from what I’ve been told just depends how the system is set up from the factory
Very helpful video. You look very familiar and experienced with sprinter. I have question, my crankcase breather valve is making a loud noise because of the blow by. I already changed the valve but the noise still there. What do you think is the cause of this problem?. I'm on a limp mode, but when I disconnect my o2sensor I get the power back. Thanks in advance.
Nice, but what is the resistor actually doing here, can you explain a little theory not just all the mechanics, why didn’t Mercedes put the resistor in there, are we bypassing and defeating the original operating procedure, just curious
Hey Clay, very informative video! I'm servicing a 2010 Mercedes ML350 woth the 3.0L CDI. I have had the intake and cleaned up the intake ports as much as possible, replaced the worn out intake runners as well as put new shut-off sensors. I also replaced the intake flap actuator motor. Cleared codes. I keep getting the DTC for the actuator motor being faulty. Does this actuator need to be reprogrammed? Any other ideas? Thank you for your time and knowledge.
No that does not require any programming, and I constantly reuse arms that are loose, what I’m almost certain is happening is your actual Intakes are probably gummed up again. Meaning without this assembly you cannot get the carbon that’s built up out of the inside of the rods. You see years ago I made a video about cleaning intakes because people would try to watch other peoples videos and they would show you how to clean them but they could never clean them properly without disassembling them. So I invented a process where I am able to do this and clean them properly. What I found before that when I tried to clean them was if I left them out of the vehicle for 3 to 4 days they would lock up even though when I was done cleaning them they moved and worked. So fast forward a couple years to 2020 if I remember correct I finally figured out a way to do it and because RUclips videos pay 2/10 of a cent obviously I capitalize off of my discovery it requires special machinery to do it correctly from what I’ve discovered. You can reach out to me on clay’s AC and Auto Repair over Facebook messenger send me an email if you discover that that’s your problem thenewclayway@gmail.Com Look on my Sprinter playlist and you will see various videos about me cleaning these and some additions I made to the process like deleting them without re-programming.
What I think your problem is, is the little plastic clips that goes around the ball joints on the actuator motor, if you don’t reuse the old ones.... the new clips are too tight and restrict the motor from moving freely.. so always test the movement of the actuator after assembly! Make sure they are returning freely.
Hey Clay :) Back for more! 2008 Dodge Sprinter here. The codes i have are P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit closed 2953-1 right ekas closed 2952-2 left ekas open and 2513-1 intake port shutoff actuator signal fault. My van drives with poor acceleration and turbo doesn't kick in although no turbo related codes. Could this possibly get my turbo working again like yours did in the video? Is it worth removing the fuel filter and trying zip tie both ekas open if possible along with the resistor? Thank you again. Love the channel. Very Helpful :) Willing to give it a shot... 299k right now
Well, it only cost about two dollars to try so you can do anything but…. When you have the sensors, you have to delete the intakes or at least clean them and or replace them.. obviously I do all of that you can reach out to me on clays AC and auto. I don’t recommend continuously running your van with the resistors in there because it will plug up your exhaust. But it may work for a short period of time.
@@sharpcarco Hey thanks again for responding :) I keep watching your videos front to back.. I think i understand. Sounds like my van has the 2 sensors that you were mentioning in this video that cause this resistor trick not to work. The EKAS sensors must be the 2 you mention?
What code reader would you recommend for a 2019 907 USA sprinter (3500 XD 4x4 3L 6.0 diesel) for me as a vehicle owner? When I'm remote I would like the option of dialogue with a mechanic on the phone. Had limp mode a few times. Once it didn't correct itself and cost me a week. Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately I don’t know if there’s an affordable option for a scanner on a sprinter. I don’t have very inexpensive scanners and none of my normal commentators Have not mentioned and affordable option the scanner that I use is a Maxis 908P with foreign European commercial software. I spent quite a bit of money on mine pretty close to $4000 I know that they sell on Amazon for right around 12 or 1300 but I don’t know the difference between mine and the more inexpensive versions. I don’t believe they come with the same software and that is the difference. My unit is getting a little bit dated from 2018 and it’s about $1200 to update it so I might as well try to buy a new unit that has 2022 software in it when I run into it and I will probably buy the 12 or $1300 option off of Amazon to compare the difference between the $4000 option and the $1200 option if that makes sense Sorry I couldn’t be of much help but maybe somebody else will comment
Hey, just checking in after a few years to see if anyone regretted doing this mod. I’m about to do it myself but figured I’d ask the experienced their thoughts. Thanks
Really depends on what year you have if it’s later than 2009 it probably won’t work or work very well since creating this solution I’ve created a better solution where I delete the flaps you’ll have to look in my Sprinter playlist it’ll show an arrow pointing to the arms on the thumbnail
I made a mistake in the video and miss pronounced the correct size pause the video when I’m showing the package and get what is on the package There are also several comments in this thread that Correct me with the correct size Sorry about the confusion no you cannot use anything else that I’m aware of
nice and a very helpful video I did this procedure but still I got from DTC code p2007 stuck closed bank 2a and p2004 stuck open bank 1a I have doge sprinter 2008 diesel 3.0 3500 and limp mod
Hi I have 2009 ml320 I put in a 2008 jeep grand cherokee engine and is in limp mode now maybe this resister may help other issue is check engine light is because of the DEF tank heater because it was a bluetec if I disconnect the fuse will the check engine light go off and where is that fuse one more think turbocharger sensor is missing the socket is there but the sensor is not and I don't see any vacuum hose for it either and I have a problem with the glow plugs in the winter module is ok but I think the temperature sensor is not giving signal to the glow plug module where is that sensor on the engine would appreciate if you would help Thank you
Unfortunately when you have rail sensors this will not work they did not know that when I made the video regretfully the only thing to do is take the intakes out send them to me I will clean them and delete them without reprogramming them if you’re interested in that send me a message to Facebook messenger Clays AC and Auto Repair, I’ll get you hooked up
Where did you get the 4.7 k resistance value I tried it at work I didn't have one that size we had a 5.6 k work for a while but then the light came on still runs okay but the check engine lights on
You didn’t read the description or comments maybe you missed it in the video when I was holding the package of resistors up And it will go into limp mode from time to time that’s One of the reasons I said this is a temporary solution but there’s a much bigger one to why you don’t want to continuously make this is a lifestyle
Clay, great video! Do you know if this will work on a 2010 freightliner 2500? I have code P2005 and it’s in limp mode . Do you think it’s gonna be helpful in my case?
Regretfully, more than likely it will not. Because you have EKAS sensors. And you can’t bypass them. However, if you look underneath my Sprinter playlist, you will find out that there is a fix for it that I do..
Well welcome.. very nice to have you. No it don’t that I’ve seen but try wiggling the main wiring harness . When your stand in front of the eng with the hood up remove the air filter and just right of the turbo you will see the wiring harness near it. Wiggle it around and try to start .... if it starts it warn where it rest on the bracket ... and needs to be repaired. Not replaced (that’s not cheap) this will be and easy ...... If it don’t work try wiggling it as someone holds key on start . If that don’t work Something else is going on and I may able to try to help but will need a lot more info ..... your answers will be easier for me on Clays Ac and auto repair on Facebook throw Messenger. Hope it helps it the easiest I could explain and you can try quickly
Sir ive been there no boost then i put resistor in and problem solved.Now im doing the cooler seals,can i leave my swirl motor out completely on resemble as ive already using resistor? Il just make sure flaps are open on assembly and leavevout the m55 inlet port motor.Whats your advise on that as im a diy mechanic.
So I know a couple of tuners who claim to be able play with the ecu file to be able to disable egr and swirl valves, do you actually have to pull out the valves and weld up the intake and do the egr blockoff plate or is just doing the tune by itself enough and how does that compare to doing the resistor trick in this video?
Honestly I don’t know because that would make it emissions illegal. I rebuild my intakes and Keep them factory this only occurs every 200 to 300,000 miles so it’s not something that happens every day on the same vehicle
gotta b the best sprinter engine video ever. love all the unrelated facts in sub text. im gonna do this mod but also wanna remove the egr and install a block off plate, as well as; throwing the DPF in the garbage replaced by straight pipe. this is for off road racing only. can u offer any advice?
Are swirl flaps really required? I mean if you live where there is no emissions laws are enforced? Can I just remove the butterflys and get the swirl flap systems disabled from the ECU, or fit do the resister mod?
More than likely not because you’ll have rail sensors however, you can remove the Intakes and send them to me and I can delete them so you never have to worry about it again while she won’t need any reprogramming If you want more information on it, reach out to me on Facebook under clays AC and auto repair Just send me a DM. Or Email Thenewclayway@gmail.Com
Hey Clay I like your style!! I have a 2014 mercedes 3liter sprinter with half a million on the clock. I have a P2005 intake manifold runner control stuck open. I'm not a mechanic I'm a glorified parts changer. Can I tackle this or do I need to make a little trip up to Grand Rapids?
Oh I’m certain you could do that. And I’m over in Muskegon now. I could probably help you if you really think you need it I don’t do a lot of work for the public Except on Mercedes and a couple of other cars You can reach out to me on Facebook under clays Ac and Auto Repair send me a DM and we can set something up or you can email me even though I don’t look at that them as well as I should Thenewclayway@gmail.com
Yes they can. But.... bypassing the flaps with the resistor does the exact same thing. And if you have them disassembled you might as well repair it properly and the way it was engineered. Fairly soon and the not so distant future. I will be rebuilding them for the public I’m still in the testing phase. Making sure they will last the rebuild process is going to be half the price of the new component and the longevity of the component after rebuilt will be the same as the original.
Nope not at all they are more than likely already stuck open or stuck closed. doesn’t make a difference if you watch the video I explain to you this is a temporary solution to be able to get you to where you have to go this is not a way of life. You’re really overthinking and thinking The flaps make all of that big of a difference.
Hi clay, I tried your hack in a Mercedes’ Benz sprinter 2012 and works properly because the turbo come back to work but I don’t why now I have a problem with the coolant. When I turn on the engine and I accelerate start to lose the coolant from the intake I think because I can’t see any leak on the hose and you can see smoke after few minutes. This is really wears because before to did the hack was working perfect and this happened just after hacked. Do you have any idea what is happening?
well I can assure you that I’ve never heard anybody say anything like that and I don’t know what this would have anything to do with that coolant issue I am assuming that it was an issue before or could just be a coincidence. More than likely your oil cooler is leaking.
Even if the package of resistors you have shows 4.7K ohms you should point out that the resistor value is NOT 4.7 ohms but 4700 ohms. Also resistors are not directional. It doesn't matter which way you install it.
How would you like me to do that? Took took me three days to make that video. And I don’t have another Sprinter Van to make another video. It appears that most people are smart enough to understand that they need to use what’s on the package or not what I Verbalee say just trying to help folks but I’m getting beat up on this one maybe I should just take the video down and let people pay $4000 to have them fixed properly. Don’t take it the wrong way this is just a text message I just don’t know what it is that I could possibly do to fix it.
@@sharpcarco Maybe you could put a notice in the description of the video.. Don't get me wrong. I thought the video was great, just the littile piece of incorrect information..
I did exactly as you ask because I thought you were absolutely correct and honestly I thought I had already done it but I went back and checked and you were correct I was mistaken
Im going to give it a try . One question do I need a to erase the code with a scanner to make it work or it should work right away, bcause I dont have a scanner but mercedes scanned it and the flaps are stuck open. thx
No you don’t have to. The only drawback to the situation is with rail sensors sometimes it does not work. And this is a temporary solution it will eventually plug up your particulate filter. Having it fixed correctly is the best thing to do or deleting the flaps so the swirl motor activates the ECM correctly. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about you should probably look at my Sprinter playlist on my channel I have some really handy tricks that will help you out and some very good contact amazing dreams
Great video. I did the resistor install, and after a few minutes, on the next start, I got a P2004 intake runner open. Has this happened to anyone, and is there a cure for it?
Depends on what year you install the resistor in later models after 2012 sometimes have runner sensors and I have not had one that I could make video of the bypass on but yeah I believe that it’s possible to use the same Resistor on the runner switches but I’m not certain of this
@@sharpcarco Mine is a 2008. So are you saying there is another connector to do this with? The yellow side of the resistor I put is on the right side of the connector looking straight at it. Any ideas before I start taking it al apart :-) !
Not on the 2008 model I figured you were working with something newer I don’t think you have the resistor installed correctly or you have the wrong resistor sometimes it will go into limp mode but very very seldom even with the The resistor installed you just shut the key off and start it back up it will go away and eventually stop doing it
@@sharpcarco Well, went in and changed the resistor, reversed it, ran and got p2004, then cleared and got p2008. Cleared, drove it, and maybe got it right! Thanks for all of the info!! You rock!!!
@@sharpcarco I appreciate your bold and open videos on alternate ways on fixing these diesel engines. related to comment above, Did you figure this one out? I have a 2011 GL350 and before putting the resistor in, I was getting code 10cb00 right intake port shutoff end position sensor is defective, after the resistor install, I have two codes one for right and one for left...; is there a way to bypass position sensors?
Thank you for this! Just fixed my sprinter. I have a p2015 code and that’s how I came across this video. Will this fix last? Will it harm anything long term? Thanks again🤙
No I’m very sorry I do not... i’ve never removed one when The engine was in the vehicle and I’ve been told that you have to play it is one of the simpler engines to remove as far as I’m concerned
Clay, great video! Do you know if this will work on a 2007 freightliner 2500? My son just bought this van from a lot in Oregon and changed the computer. Now it's throwing p2006 and p2007 codes. Not in limp mode but he can't register it in California like this. Maybe the old computer had GDE tune on it to suppress these codes?
Yes absolutely it should but just remembered that it is a temporary solution. I hope the weather and life is treating you well thank you for asking and I hope this helps you out have a great day
Thanks Clay! The van runs fine already but this issue is the MIL light, can't pass smog with it on in California. So do you think it will turn off the check engine light? We are thinking about just pulling the intakes and sending them to you for a rebuild. Do you have a business address and what kind of turnaround?
I don’t know but 22k later it is still rolling. If you need to do this they need to be fixed . ASAP this is meant to be temporary solution. BTW I’ve tried to clean them 3 different times and they fail within a week or 2 The only way to truly fix them is to replace them or rebuild them , PM me on clays Ac and auto repair (Facebook) if you need the name of the rebuilder it cost 275.00 per cheaper than new and last just as long.
Hey clay I'm working a 2010 and codes are for intake runner volts low and stuck closed valve,And will blow the engine fuse not all the time short to ground.Bad swirl valve.I'm thinking of doing this to save them some money for now.How many miles are you getting out of the van doing this so far? Thanks
They help with an unnoticeable amount of torque….. you could consider them like a ram air system…. Except for they have no kind of seal properties so the difference between them being opened or closed is negligible……. But apparently they help with the burning of fuel meaning that they pass more air through them when they’re open so the fuel can ignite hotter in the exhaust system is my best guess……. Making better omissions and cleaner exhaust output. In Europe where regulations are a little bit easier I’ve been told by some of my European friends that they don’t even have them….. Older model 3.0 sprinters don’t have rail sensors so you can remove them but on later models the computer needs to see the rails moving in order for it not to go in limp mode
Yes you are correct. According to the way I understand it they are for the environment more so than functioning as far as a necessity for the engine to operate if you have the older model that does not have the sensors then you can get rid of them flaps
Sorry I talk to so many people I forgot that you and I were having a conversation earlier and I explained everything to you. With the exception of that last question
I have the same issue. I have bypassed the swirl motor. I'm out of limp mode. But the turbo is still not functional. Bough car as is. I have p2010 code
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
Is this what you’re talking about? If it is I had the same problem just the wrong sensor even though it looked identical I ended up getting one from Mercedes and fix the problem. ruclips.net/video/hLW1FYretVE/видео.html
Awesome video. Resistors do not have polarity, so the direction of the resistor probably does not matter. I also wonder after this mod if the flaps stay open or stay closed.
Well it’s hard to tell because they can get stuck open or closed. Either way it doesn’t make a difference. Although this is a temporary solution for a problem that needs to be taken care of not a lifestyle
Probably a lot longer than necessary I don’t make them quite this way anymore but I did love what I did in that video… So thank you very much for the kind words I greatly appreciate it
I drove mine about 5000 miles. The carbon will continuously build up and that’s what I believe the biggest problem would be in the future and from time to time it will go into limp mode with the bypass. I would say with shipping that’s about right but they’re actually only $225 apiece to do right now it could raise in the future. But that’s the going price for cleaning them right now plus shipping
@@sharpcarco okay cool. So with them being cleaned is nearly as good a solution as replacing? I’m in Georgia but coming up the coast this winter and would make a trip to you to get it fixed
Well I think you get a little bit better product with the cleaning because I have a special solution that I put on them to be a little bit resistant to the carbon buildup and you would be hard-pressed to not know that they are brand new if you looked on the inside of them the exterior of them may look a little bit dingy but the interior of them looks just as good as new. Without a piece of carbon anywhere and I would absolutely love it if you made a trip up here will make a video about that. So I would be happy to do it for you
@@sharpcarco I would love to get in direct contact with you. I’m very serious about this, you would be saving me from having to sell my van. Please let me know the best way to get in touch. Thank you
You can look me up on Facebook Clays ac and auto repair and send me a direct message, Or you can Ken send me an email to thenewclayway@gmail.com I don’t check emails as well. As I do my Facebook I’ll send you my cell phone number I just don’t give out personal contact Information over my channel
Yeah sorry to hear that but that’s because you have rail sensors and this procedure will not work for that you need to remove the Intakes clean them and or delete them… Then you’ll be happy motoring again
@@sharpcarco nah this way is good. Customer is just sending this one down the road. They didn't wanna fork over the money to fix it the right way. Thanks for the video man.
I just performed this repair for the p2513 Code. I did not actually have a powerloss before the repair I only had the code. I've installed the resistor, reset the light and driven it. So far the light has not come back on and the vehicle still runs find. Thank you so much for this information!
I've been searching for anyone that had solid information on this issue after many KNOW NOTHING certified diesel mechanic fanatics I found the CHANNEL that has real answers and step by step instructions that not only make sense is spot on with results Thank you Clay , you're saving people thousands and giving piece of mind TWO 👍🏻👍🏻 UP!!!!
Well, that’s really really super awesome of you to say… it truly means a lot, and I put a lot of effort in my videos monetarily they don’t pay a lot, but the satisfaction I get is worth every sacrifice I’ve made… I greatly appreciate you welcome to the channel…. Hopefully the next elections a little bit better for us so money won’t be so tight….
Wow what a response time hey Clay where can we find the resistor's you purchased? And keep up the Great Videos were going join you as well have a great weekend.
I was wondering if those same resistors would work for the now non existent particulate filter what's your thoughts?
I bought mine off of Amazon. Make sure you read the description because I said the wrong thing in the video but the resistor I was using was the right one you don’t want to continuously run it that way….
And I had contemplated the same thing about the particulate filter. It won’t hurt anything to try it.
I guess unless you put the positive and negative together, depending on what signal goes into the particulate filter but I’m not certain about that
I will tell you, though I’ve gutted it out, particulate filters before, and it had no effect on it running
By the way, if you got a spreader, you definitely want to watch my Sprinter playlist I do some sick sick stuff to Sprinter’s
Man, I’ve got something new I just invented… that is going to change the Sprinter world forever…
And if you ever have a question, it’s best to reach out to me on clays, aace and Auto Repair over Facebook because I don’t often see responses or comments. I tried to answer everyone that I possibly can but if you want to guarantee it answer that’s the best way to do it or you can always email me as well.
Theneeclayway@gmail.Com
Once again, welcome to the channel very happy to have you. I always try to help everybody. I possibly can. Thank you so much. I hope you enjoy some of the Contant not all of it. Lol nobody possibly could.
Thanks again for the info and help I'll recommend your channel to all my sprinter buds
👍🏻
I love you, brother!
2008 Sprinter 3500 dually confirmed fix: I de-soldered a 3.5 kOhm resistor from an old circuit board and used it for my repair - turbo is back, full power, drives like new! Thank you very much!
@maxitv8242 Myself I curved the end a bit in case they wiggle. When you bend the resistor to one side and electrical tape it in place, there will be contact on the tips.
I work in film and no time for down time.
This trick did the job within ten min and saved the day!
Roll the camera !!!
I got rid of my Merc R320cdi before seeing this video. I wish I had the chance to use this repair. I changed the Turbo, Actuator and replaced the servo module and still the limp mode persisted. Great video....would have been greater if I had repaired my car with this quick fix. Thanks...
I'm just about to try the fix on my car today 🙏
Hi Clay thanks for a very informative and an encouraging video
My main concern is after doing this hack the swirl flaps should be locked in position so they dont move causing erratic power surges.
I noticed on some vehicles the flaps are made of some hard plastic like looking material,I have come across some vehicles where the flaps break and end up on the piston head causing big damage to the valves as well in this case I would recommend removing the flaps completely blocking of the shaft holes in conjunction with this hack
Also you mentioned that some sprinters dont have swirl flaps that's 100% correct im based in South Africa i noticed up until 2013 the om 642 motor's do not have swirl flaps.
Once again thanks have a great day and be safe
I'll be damned. It worked!! Thank you!! I just got an estimate for $5,600. I have never done anything mechanical on a vehicle and I was a bit worried I wouldn't be able to get it back together, but I managed it..
worked for me 2008 dodge sprinter 2500. turbo is back!! bought same resistor pack off amazon. check engine light still on but who cares. turbo is on!
Work like charm in 2023 Thank you so much for your video save time and money!!!!
That’s awesome. Very glad to hear it. Welcome to the channel. Thank you so much for the comment.
Hi , I am back from a Road test . I did follow exactly your procedure and It worked for me man Thousands of thanks. It did around 40 Kms without this horrible sign of limb mode. Continue your nice work educating us. I don’t have any mechanic experience .
Regards 😘😘😘
I love it! Clay's engineering takes over where MBZ's ended. Don't worry about smog tech seeing that the swirl motor is disconnected. My smog tech told asked me, "if I knew where the EGR valve was", as he was not familiar with diesel engines. Nice guy though!
Much appreciated!
So thankful I saw this video when I did. I had already started the task of removing the intake manifolds, but before I got too far in I was able to use a 3K Ohm resistor I had laying around and it seemed to work.
Best wrenching video ive ever seen tbh..., currently removing turbo on my vito to replace oil cooler seal. My vito ran 400K. Will also close egr.
Thanks brother I appreciate it. Welcome to the channel. Very happy to have you there. Some more chips that are more recent than these videos. Right now I’m currently working on a Injector removal video., side door that won’t open video. I’m literally filming that right now….. and my my best Sprinter video ever probably one of the best videos I’ve ever made about how to get a Broken glow plug out without having to remove the cylinder head when they break off inside… that one’s a little bit of way but I’ve got most of it. Filmed I just haven’t got the actual part. It’s broken off inside the cylinder head out yet but I’m working on it. I’ve got a solution that’s really kick ass. Where I use silly putty
@@sharpcarco do you have any more tips on what I should replace on a 400K om642? Had to replace the alternator so the radiator went out to reach that. Noticed the oil cooler seal while working on it and figured I might as well do as much as I can. As I mentioned Ill get a physical egr blocker, you mentioned the swirl motor to be replaced, thinking of completely removing it also, but read on the internet it gave them less power on low rpm on cold days or something? Little reluctant...
How about waterpump, does it last? And should I check the turbo for play? Certain gaskets or anything other I should replace? My engine used to run perfect, the van used to be hearse and a taxi. Want to get it good for another 200K, jts my carpentry work van.
It's working! My code p2015 disappear and the turbo boost again! Thanks for the tips. For only 25 cents!
Just did this today and we are now at "full power" The codes still show obviously. Thanks !
Well that’s awesome to hear Tom when you actually get ready to do them keep me in mind because I remanufacture them intakes now and I give a warranty you should check out the video that I just posted about that it is really cool have a great day glad to hear you got her back on the road
@pete lavigne the pressure of the turbo will blow it open, but should be center.
I had to do this with my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee it has the Mercedes v6 CDR , I initially was told that due to a bad turbo gasket which sits right above the motor it allowed oil to drip down onto the motor thus causing it to become defective. I found that to be a common problem with this engine and if repairing to also replace that faulty turbo gasket. I've had the bypass on for a little over a year and soon will be looking for a permanent fix. Some of the things that I have noticed since the bypass is the engine sounds like it's working harder especially at high speeds.
As a matter fact I’m replacing the intakes on a 2008 Jeep grand Cherokee this week.
worked on a 2016 sprinter 3500, 5 min repair. thanks
Thank you so much for an amazing video
thanks you for the video. i will help me with the nightmare that is waiting in the garage. BTW, we have swirl flaps in Europe.
The swirl motor is spring-loaded with the flaps normally in the open position [Re: WK Jeep shop manual sec.9-2713] so, this modification won"t harm your engine. As a matter of fact, my Jeep came out of limp mode after just disconnecting the swirl motor and driving for about an hour though the check engine light stayed on. However, be sure that the problem isn't broken linkage. If so, you can remove the swirl motor without pulling the turbo, tie off the linkages in the open position, [you can use some wire to secure the right side linkage to one of the swirl motor mounting bolt holes, and on the left side place a clamshell-type of paper clip on the linkage to prevent closure] and put the swirl motor in your sock drawer. BTW installing a catch can, or even a dump hose will prevent the gumming and sooting up of your intakes. ;)
For the "BTW installing a catch can, or even a dump hose will prevent the gumming and sooting up of your intakes. ;) ", any pic's or diagrams on this? Aren't the gummed up intakes downstream from the turbo? If that is so, isn't there the boost pressure at those intake ports? So wouldn't a dump hose bleed off the boost pressure?
Anyone have a good way to thoroughly clean the intake manifolds, especially the gummed up intake ports and the pivot points of the flaps.
Does not seem to work when I put the resistor in it starts to smoke I ordered the correct one you were showing why is it smoking when I install it
More than likely you have a later model that has rail sensors. Sometimes this procedure does not work with rail sensors.
I have done this for about a year ago. still work well. and I got more turbo response and a bitt more...better sound. my car is a 2007 e 320 ccdi. done about 240 000 km, not shore how itis in miles.
@maxitv8242 I did put them in as long as I coulds. then I had good tape over and around it. to make it secure. been like that since....then. no done 285 000 km.
4.7 Ohm Resistor Color Code: Yellow, Violet, Golden, Golden. Resistance: 4.7 Ohm, Power Rating: 0.25 Watt, Approximate Maximum Current: 231mA .
Hi Clay, thanks for all great videos you record and share, you have no idea how much you saved for your viewers.
I have 2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 with 160k miles, I believe my after market Swril motor stopped working, I exactly did what what you did on this video, but I get these two codesL P2004 and P2005, Intake Manifold Runner control Stuck Open Bank 1 and 2.
Any idea how to get ride of this error so I can get it smog check?
First off thank you very much for the kind words
Unfortunately, so there’s the swirl flap
And then on each side of the intake, there are rail sensors if the rails are not moving more than likely it’s because they’re plugged, which is extremely common
So unfortunately, there’s no fix for it without removing them entirely or reprogramming them
You can send me a message to Clay ac and Auto Repair over Facebook
Or you can reach out to me over email
Thenewclayway@gmail.com
When I originally produced this video, I wasn’t aware of that, but I’ve got a lot more experience since then
Clay thank you for passing on great knowledge
Yes I did it too! And I'm technically challenged. Now I need to get it out of park. Any thoughts?
11:20 thanks for the great video Clay.
You’re very welcome I recently figured out a way to delete them and bypass the sensor it’s actually very interesting you should look it up under my Sprinter playlist. Not quite as long as this video…… sorry about that I was so excited but I wanted to build anticipation……. Some ideas are good and some aren’t so……
@@sharpcarco even better. I will check it out. Thanks again
Great Video! BUT...
The text at the bottom of your video is very distracting. I cant tell if I should be reading it or paying attention to what youre doing.
I have an issue with my 2007 UK E320 CDI, i have bought recently with 150,000 miles. I have minimal low down power. I went to do this mod and found the plug onto the swirl motor unplugged. It doesnt have a code. I plugged the resistor in and it smoked for a while and ran terribly then cut out. Any idea what it could be? I am so lost. Thank you for the great content.
Did this on my 2008 and works great.
Could I keep this forever or would it cause engine damage in the long run and it's better to get it repaired?
Yes overtime technically not good
I was quoted fifteen hours and $6K Canadian for this repair. "replace left side swirl valve actuator" while they were in there they were going to replace some seals and other things just cause they were in there. I haven't done the repair because my van starts and runs like clockwork. zero issues, so hard to get motivated to spend 6K.
Anybody else ignored this problem away? Or does it always lead to a limp mode morning and subsequent job loss, addiction, divorce, famine, halitosis, etc..?
Well if it’s got tits or tires you’re going to have problems with it…..
You cannot ignore the problem it will not go away.
But you can bring it over to me here at the clayway and it’s about three grand. If that’s helpful at all…..
What does it mean while my 2007 Dodge Sprinter engine is idling the swirl motor is rattling? With this resistor fix this issue? The engine runs amazing when I clear the codes and it runs for a few days before it goes back into limp mode. Thanks!
Sorry 🤷🏻♂️
I think this coulda saved me about $10k a few years ago
Think this would pass smog? I just purchased a 08’ dodge sprinter and I need it registered asap. Probably would fix after getting plates.
Definitely not with the resistor in there… it will pass it though if I delete the swirl flaps for you. Because it tricks the computer into thinking that the squirrel flaps are still there and you will never have to take the Intakes out again, but in order to do that you have to take the Intakes out
If you’re interested in shipping them to me, look me up on clays ac and Auto Repair on Facebook messenger send me a DM and I’ll break it down for you
Cool, Clay you bypassed ENDS, but how about butterfly flaps you leave them as is or leave them in open position???
Well, in the video, I say, this is a temporary fix for one
And number two in my splinter playlist, I show you that this problem is very fixable
This is a clever way of tricking the ECU into thinking the runner control and swirl motor are working as they should, but what is the consequence of not actually fixing the root problem over time?
Well like I mentioned in the video it is a temporary solution the build up of carbon could be bypassed and then end up inside the catalytic converter/exhaust Particulate filter.
It should be fixed properly and sometimes does not work on models after 2011 from what I’ve been told just depends how the system is set up from the factory
Interesting fix. Have you thought about a installing an oil catch can to prevent misting and gunking?
We do have those little flaps also in Europe.
Hm. Maybe I need to give your tip a try on my 2010 E Class with this engine.
Greetings from Germany
Very helpful video. You look very familiar and experienced with sprinter. I have question, my crankcase breather valve is making a loud noise because of the blow by. I already changed the valve but the noise still there. What do you think is the cause of this problem?. I'm on a limp mode, but when I disconnect my o2sensor I get the power back. Thanks in advance.
Nice, but what is the resistor actually doing here, can you explain a little theory not just all the mechanics, why didn’t Mercedes put the resistor in there, are we bypassing and defeating the original operating procedure, just curious
I would explain it to you but I explained it in the video. It’s basically telling the Ecm that the switch is there when it’s not
Hey Clay, very informative video! I'm servicing a 2010 Mercedes ML350 woth the 3.0L CDI. I have had the intake and cleaned up the intake ports as much as possible, replaced the worn out intake runners as well as put new shut-off sensors. I also replaced the intake flap actuator motor. Cleared codes. I keep getting the DTC for the actuator motor being faulty. Does this actuator need to be reprogrammed? Any other ideas? Thank you for your time and knowledge.
No that does not require any programming, and I constantly reuse arms that are loose, what I’m almost certain is happening is your actual Intakes are probably gummed up again. Meaning without this assembly you cannot get the carbon that’s built up out of the inside of the rods.
You see years ago I made a video about cleaning intakes because people would try to watch other peoples videos and they would show you how to clean them but they could never clean them properly without disassembling them. So I invented a process where I am able to do this and clean them properly.
What I found before that when I tried to clean them was if I left them out of the vehicle for 3 to 4 days they would lock up even though when I was done cleaning them they moved and worked.
So fast forward a couple years to 2020 if I remember correct I finally figured out a way to do it and because RUclips videos pay 2/10 of a cent obviously I capitalize off of my discovery it requires special machinery to do it correctly from what I’ve discovered.
You can reach out to me on clay’s AC and Auto Repair over Facebook messenger send me an email if you discover that that’s your problem thenewclayway@gmail.Com
Look on my Sprinter playlist and you will see various videos about me cleaning these and some additions I made to the process like deleting them without re-programming.
What I think your problem is, is the little plastic clips that goes around the ball joints on the actuator motor, if you don’t reuse the old ones.... the new clips are too tight and restrict the motor from moving freely.. so always test the movement of the actuator after assembly! Make sure they are returning freely.
Excelente si funcionó , gracias por compartir.
Hey Clay :) Back for more! 2008 Dodge Sprinter here. The codes i have are P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit closed 2953-1 right ekas closed 2952-2 left ekas open and 2513-1 intake port shutoff actuator signal fault. My van drives with poor acceleration and turbo doesn't kick in although no turbo related codes. Could this possibly get my turbo working again like yours did in the video? Is it worth removing the fuel filter and trying zip tie both ekas open if possible along with the resistor? Thank you again. Love the channel. Very Helpful :) Willing to give it a shot... 299k right now
Well, it only cost about two dollars to try so you can do anything but…. When you have the sensors, you have to delete the intakes or at least clean them and or replace them.. obviously I do all of that you can reach out to me on clays AC and auto. I don’t recommend continuously running your van with the resistors in there because it will plug up your exhaust. But it may work for a short period of time.
@@sharpcarco Hey thanks again for responding :) I keep watching your videos front to back.. I think i understand. Sounds like my van has the 2 sensors that you were mentioning in this video that cause this resistor trick not to work. The EKAS sensors must be the 2 you mention?
What code reader would you recommend for a 2019 907 USA sprinter (3500 XD 4x4 3L 6.0 diesel) for me as a vehicle owner? When I'm remote I would like the option of dialogue with a mechanic on the phone. Had limp mode a few times. Once it didn't correct itself and cost me a week.
Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately I don’t know if there’s an affordable option for a scanner on a sprinter. I don’t have very inexpensive scanners and none of my normal commentators Have not mentioned and affordable option the scanner that I use is a Maxis 908P with foreign European commercial software. I spent quite a bit of money on mine pretty close to $4000 I know that they sell on Amazon for right around 12 or 1300 but I don’t know the difference between mine and the more inexpensive versions. I don’t believe they come with the same software and that is the difference.
My unit is getting a little bit dated from 2018 and it’s about $1200 to update it so I might as well try to buy a new unit that has 2022 software in it when I run into it and I will probably buy the 12 or $1300 option off of Amazon to compare the difference between the $4000 option and the $1200 option if that makes sense
Sorry I couldn’t be of much help but maybe somebody else will comment
@@sharpcarco i appreciate the input just the same and perhaps another follower will have additional guidance for both of us.
I had the delete done, but don't know which position the flaps are on passenger side, because it don't move, the driver side moves
Hey, just checking in after a few years to see if anyone regretted doing this mod. I’m about to do it myself but figured I’d ask the experienced their thoughts.
Thanks
Really depends on what year you have if it’s later than 2009 it probably won’t work or work very well since creating this solution I’ve created a better solution where I delete the flaps you’ll have to look in my Sprinter playlist it’ll show an arrow pointing to the arms on the thumbnail
I have a 2008. Would you still remove the runners?
Thank u great video. I can only find 4.7ohm 5% 1/4w Is 5% ok? or do I need 2%
I made a mistake in the video and miss pronounced the correct size pause the video when I’m showing the package and get what is on the package
There are also several comments in this thread that Correct me with the correct size
Sorry about the confusion no you cannot use anything else that I’m aware of
@@sharpcarco thank you
nice and a very helpful video I did this procedure but still I got from DTC code p2007 stuck closed bank 2a and p2004 stuck open bank 1a I have doge sprinter 2008 diesel 3.0 3500 and limp mod
Thanks for the kind words but I’ve never had it not work. Well all I can guess is either you use the wrong resistor or you put it in incorrectly
Now I'm pretty sure that if you disable the swirl flap power.....The valves will end up closing because there's no power to keep them open?
Hi I have 2009 ml320 I put in a 2008 jeep grand cherokee engine and is in limp mode now maybe this resister may help other issue is check engine light is because of the DEF tank heater because it was a bluetec if I disconnect the fuse will the check engine light go off and where is that fuse one more think turbocharger sensor is missing the socket is there but the sensor is not and I don't see any vacuum hose for it either and I have a problem with the glow plugs in the winter module is ok but I think the temperature sensor is not giving signal to the glow plug module where is that sensor on the engine would appreciate if you would help Thank you
Hi boss can you send me the link for resistance and thanks for your help.
It’s listed in the description
I did this procedure on my 2013 Sprinter but I still get a fault end position sensor right and left malfunction. What I can do?
Unfortunately when you have rail sensors this will not work they did not know that when I made the video regretfully the only thing to do is take the intakes out send them to me I will clean them and delete them without reprogramming them if you’re interested in that send me a message to Facebook messenger Clays AC and Auto Repair, I’ll get you hooked up
Where did you get the 4.7 k resistance value I tried it at work I didn't have one that size we had a 5.6 k work for a while but then the light came on still runs okay but the check engine lights on
You didn’t read the description or comments maybe you missed it in the video when I was holding the package of resistors up
And it will go into limp mode from time to time that’s One of the reasons I said this is a temporary solution but there’s a much bigger one to why you don’t want to continuously make this is a lifestyle
Clay, great video! Do you know if this will work on a 2010 freightliner 2500? I have code P2005 and it’s in limp mode . Do you think it’s gonna be helpful in my case?
Regretfully, more than likely it will not. Because you have EKAS sensors. And you can’t bypass them. However, if you look underneath my Sprinter playlist, you will find out that there is a fix for it that I do..
@@sharpcarco Thank you man I will try to find out some more in your playlist.
Do you keep em closed or open
I may be your newest subscriber wondering if these intake swirls can cause a no start condition.
Thanks
Well welcome.. very nice to have you.
No it don’t that I’ve seen but try wiggling the main wiring harness . When your stand in front of the eng with the hood up remove the air filter and just right of the turbo you will see the wiring harness near it. Wiggle it around and try to start .... if it starts it warn where it rest on the bracket ... and needs to be repaired. Not replaced (that’s not cheap) this will be and easy ......
If it don’t work try wiggling it as someone holds key on start . If that don’t work
Something else is going on and I may able to try to help but will need a lot more info ..... your answers will be easier for me on Clays Ac and auto repair on Facebook throw Messenger. Hope it helps it the easiest I could explain and you can try quickly
Sir ive been there no boost then i put resistor in and problem solved.Now im doing the cooler seals,can i leave my swirl motor out completely on resemble as ive already using resistor? Il just make sure flaps are open on assembly and leavevout the m55 inlet port motor.Whats your advise on that as im a diy mechanic.
What method did you use to clean the intakes and the flaps ?
ruclips.net/video/-yg95ClUbN4/видео.html
So I know a couple of tuners who claim to be able play with the ecu file to be able to disable egr and swirl valves, do you actually have to pull out the valves and weld up the intake and do the egr blockoff plate or is just doing the tune by itself enough and how does that compare to doing the resistor trick in this video?
Honestly I don’t know because that would make it emissions illegal. I rebuild my intakes and Keep them factory this only occurs every 200 to 300,000 miles so it’s not something that happens every day on the same vehicle
@@sharpcarco fuck emissions. performance only after mileage
The color codes for that resistor do not match to 4.7k ohms, please clarify if possible
Hey Paul. I did down in the description. If I’m understanding your question correctly
gotta b the best sprinter engine video ever. love all the unrelated facts in sub text. im gonna do this mod but also wanna remove the egr and install a block off plate, as well as; throwing the DPF in the garbage replaced by straight pipe. this is for off road racing only. can u offer any advice?
Yeah I have a couple of great video showing you how to take that intake off etc. etc. let me know how it turns out
I did by pass 4.7 k but I still see the check engine light came back. what should I do?
Rewatch the video and listen to my words entirely through the whole video, then Read the description.
Are swirl flaps really required? I mean if you live where there is no emissions laws are enforced? Can I just remove the butterflys and get the swirl flap systems disabled from the ECU, or fit do the resister mod?
I’ve done it before and the vehicle ran great after it was reprogrammed actually got better fuel mileage.
So I suppose the short answer is yes
If its the om 642 they have the little flaps in Europe too.
Will this work on 2017 model?
More than likely not because you’ll have rail sensors however, you can remove the Intakes and send them to me and I can delete them so you never have to worry about it again while she won’t need any reprogramming
If you want more information on it, reach out to me on Facebook under clays AC and auto repair Just send me a DM.
Or
Email
Thenewclayway@gmail.Com
Hey Clay I like your style!! I have a 2014 mercedes 3liter sprinter with half a million on the clock. I have a P2005 intake manifold runner control stuck open. I'm not a mechanic I'm a glorified parts changer. Can I tackle this or do I need to make a little trip up to Grand Rapids?
Oh I’m certain you could do that.
And I’m over in Muskegon now. I could probably help you if you really think you need it I don’t do a lot of work for the public
Except on Mercedes and a couple of other cars
You can reach out to me on Facebook under clays Ac and Auto Repair send me a DM and we can set something up or you can email me even though I don’t look at that them as well as I should
Thenewclayway@gmail.com
@@sharpcarco thanks so much for the encouragement Clay keep up the good work!!
Tried this hack on my 08 2500 sprinter with no luck.Still in limp mode.
Can the swirl flaps be removed totally ? I mean if the manifolds are off would that be beneficial?
Yes they can. But.... bypassing the flaps with the resistor does the exact same thing. And if you have them disassembled you might as well repair it properly and the way it was engineered.
Fairly soon and the not so distant future. I will be rebuilding them for the public I’m still in the testing phase. Making sure they will last the rebuild process is going to be half the price of the new component and the longevity of the component after rebuilt will be the same as the original.
Are you not worried that the flaps will get jammed closed? Surely removing the swirl flap butterflys while proforming this mod would be best practices
Nope not at all they are more than likely already stuck open or stuck closed. doesn’t make a difference if you watch the video I explain to you this is a temporary solution to be able to get you to where you have to go this is not a way of life. You’re really overthinking and thinking The flaps make all of that big of a difference.
Hi clay, I tried your hack in a Mercedes’ Benz sprinter 2012 and works properly because the turbo come back to work but I don’t why now I have a problem with the coolant. When I turn on the engine and I accelerate start to lose the coolant from the intake I think because I can’t see any leak on the hose and you can see smoke after few minutes. This is really wears because before to did the hack was working perfect and this happened just after hacked. Do you have any idea what is happening?
well I can assure you that I’ve never heard anybody say anything like that and I don’t know what this would have anything to do with that coolant issue I am assuming that it was an issue before or could just be a coincidence.
More than likely your oil cooler is leaking.
Hi clay, thank you for answer. I already found the issue, was the coolant hose next to the firewall. What a coincidence.
Oh cool glad to hear it brother…
Even if the package of resistors you have shows 4.7K ohms you should point out that the resistor value is NOT 4.7 ohms but 4700 ohms.
Also resistors are not directional. It doesn't matter which way you install it.
How would you like me to do that? Took took me three days to make that video. And I don’t have another Sprinter Van to make another video. It appears that most people are smart enough to understand that they need to use what’s on the package or not what I Verbalee say just trying to help folks but I’m getting beat up on this one maybe I should just take the video down and let people pay $4000 to have them fixed properly.
Don’t take it the wrong way this is just a text message I just don’t know what it is that I could possibly do to fix it.
@@sharpcarco Maybe you could put a notice in the description of the video.. Don't get me wrong. I thought the video was great, just the littile piece of incorrect information..
I did exactly as you ask because I thought you were absolutely correct and honestly I thought I had already done it but I went back and checked and you were correct I was mistaken
Will this work with the 642 Diesel engine in the ML and GL vehicles? Those cars share the same 642 engine which contain the flaps.
Yes
As long as they don’t have the rail sensors
Im going to give it a try . One question do I need a to erase the code with a scanner to make it work or it should work right away, bcause I dont have a scanner but mercedes scanned it and the flaps are stuck open. thx
No you don’t have to.
The only drawback to the situation is with rail sensors sometimes it does not work. And this is a temporary solution it will eventually plug up your particulate filter. Having it fixed correctly is the best thing to do or deleting the flaps so the swirl motor activates the ECM correctly. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about you should probably look at my Sprinter playlist on my channel I have some really handy tricks that will help you out and some very good contact amazing dreams
Will a 4.3ohm resistor work
Great video. I did the resistor install, and after a few minutes, on the next start, I got a P2004 intake runner open.
Has this happened to anyone, and is there a cure for it?
Depends on what year you install the resistor in later models after 2012 sometimes have runner sensors and I have not had one that I could make video of the bypass on but yeah I believe that it’s possible to use the same Resistor on the runner switches but I’m not certain of this
@@sharpcarco Mine is a 2008. So are you saying there is another connector to do this with? The yellow side of the resistor I put is on the right side of the connector looking straight at it. Any ideas before I start taking it al apart :-) !
Not on the 2008 model I figured you were working with something newer I don’t think you have the resistor installed correctly or you have the wrong resistor sometimes it will go into limp mode but very very seldom even with the The resistor installed you just shut the key off and start it back up it will go away and eventually stop doing it
@@sharpcarco Well, went in and changed the resistor, reversed it, ran and got p2004, then cleared and got p2008. Cleared, drove it, and maybe got it right! Thanks for all of the info!! You rock!!!
@@sharpcarco I appreciate your bold and open videos on alternate ways on fixing these diesel engines. related to comment above, Did you figure this one out? I have a 2011 GL350 and before putting the resistor in, I was getting code 10cb00 right intake port shutoff end position sensor is defective, after the resistor install, I have two codes one for right and one for left...; is there a way to bypass position sensors?
Does the swirl motor still have to be in its place for the resistor to work properly?
No unless you have rail sensors and if you have real sensors this trick will not work.
@@sharpcarco What years have the rail sensors? I got 2008 2500 was wondering if it would work
Thank you for this! Just fixed my sprinter. I have a p2015 code and that’s how I came across this video. Will this fix last? Will it harm anything long term? Thanks again🤙
Watch a video I tell you....
Do you have a viedo on removing the Dpf filter off a 2010 3.0 sprinter van?
No I’m very sorry I do not... i’ve never removed one when The engine was in the vehicle and I’ve been told that you have to play it is one of the simpler engines to remove as far as I’m concerned
Clay, great video! Do you know if this will work on a 2007 freightliner 2500? My son just bought this van from a lot in Oregon and changed the computer. Now it's throwing p2006 and p2007 codes. Not in limp mode but he can't register it in California like this. Maybe the old computer had GDE tune on it to suppress these codes?
Yes absolutely it should but just remembered that it is a temporary solution. I hope the weather and life is treating you well thank you for asking and I hope this helps you out have a great day
Thanks Clay! The van runs fine already but this issue is the MIL light, can't pass smog with it on in California. So do you think it will turn off the check engine light?
We are thinking about just pulling the intakes and sending them to you for a rebuild. Do you have a business address and what kind of turnaround?
How long can i drive with this resistor and how can i know when to clean the manifold
I don’t know but 22k later it is still rolling.
If you need to do this they need to be fixed . ASAP this is meant to be temporary solution. BTW I’ve tried to clean them 3 different times and they fail within a week or 2
The only way to truly fix them is to replace them or rebuild them , PM me on clays Ac and auto repair (Facebook) if you need the name of the rebuilder it cost 275.00 per cheaper than new and last just as long.
I've done this for years and never had one come back. Just increased power over time.
@@xpertNetwork Did you ever experience one that gave you a P2004 after doing the resistor fix?
@@Nissan300zxshowcar no, never seen p2004 on any CRD, are you sure you don't have an engine swap?
Hey clay I'm working a 2010 and codes are for intake runner volts low and stuck closed valve,And will blow the engine fuse not all the time short to ground.Bad swirl valve.I'm thinking of doing this to save them some money for now.How many miles are you getting out of the van doing this so far? Thanks
When I sold the van I had a little bit over 15,000 miles After I installed a resistor
Have you tried it with your 2010?
if my swirl valves ARE stuck, do I need to get them to the open position if I was to try this?
No it’s fine if they’re stuck unless you have rail sensors if you have rail sensors this procedure will not work
@@sharpcarco mine is an 08, not sure if it is them or not
It will definitely work! I don’t believe they came out with rail sensors till 2011.
Give it a shot what are you gotta lose? Two bucks lol
Thank you very much!
what these flaps are actually doing? i have removed mine and didn't notice any difference
They help with an unnoticeable amount of torque….. you could consider them like a ram air system…. Except for they have no kind of seal properties so the difference between them being opened or closed is negligible……. But apparently they help with the burning of fuel meaning that they pass more air through them when they’re open so the fuel can ignite hotter in the exhaust system is my best guess……. Making better omissions and cleaner exhaust output. In Europe where regulations are a little bit easier I’ve been told by some of my European friends that they don’t even have them…..
Older model 3.0 sprinters don’t have rail sensors so you can remove them but on later models the computer needs to see the rails moving in order for it not to go in limp mode
@@sharpcarco mine is Chrysler 300c 3.0CRD , so these flaps is about ecology, not economy in fuel consumption right?
Yes you are correct. According to the way I understand it they are for the environment more so than functioning as far as a necessity for the engine to operate if you have the older model that does not have the sensors then you can get rid of them flaps
Sorry I talk to so many people I forgot that you and I were having a conversation earlier and I explained everything to you. With the exception of that last question
Codes now are left and right postion sensors
I have the same issue. I have bypassed the swirl motor. I'm out of limp mode. But the turbo is still not functional. Bough car as is. I have p2010 code
FYI. Turbo actuator works. I get about 14 psi of turbo boost. I don't have leaks (confirmed with smoke test)
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
Is this what you’re talking about? If it is I had the same problem just the wrong sensor even though it looked identical I ended up getting one from Mercedes and fix the problem.
ruclips.net/video/hLW1FYretVE/видео.html
@@sharpcarco hi thanks for answering, i just tested both in another car and are working good. I’m still with the same issue
Great video! Love the fun facts
Great video thanks. The trivia is very annoying and distracting
How do you see into those top tool drawers
Tip toes!!
Thanks for you videos really helpful
Did this on my 2010 sprinter, was throwing codes P200A & P2007. Now she’s throwing code 2006 after relay install. Anyone have an idea?
Does it stay out of limp mode?
Awesome video. Resistors do not have polarity, so the direction of the resistor probably does not matter. I also wonder after this mod if the flaps stay open or stay closed.
Well it’s hard to tell because they can get stuck open or closed.
Either way it doesn’t make a difference.
Although this is a temporary solution for a problem that needs to be taken care of not a lifestyle
Excellent video
Probably a lot longer than necessary I don’t make them quite this way anymore but I did love what I did in that video…
So thank you very much for the kind words I greatly appreciate it
Only thing I've ever seen in the Liberty is the Lombardini Italian motor.
VM Motori
Going to do this on my van. you said its a temporary fix and to repair asap? And you do the repair for 300 each?
I drove mine about 5000 miles. The carbon will continuously build up and that’s what I believe the biggest problem would be in the future and from time to time it will go into limp mode with the bypass. I would say with shipping that’s about right but they’re actually only $225 apiece to do right now it could raise in the future. But that’s the going price for cleaning them right now plus shipping
@@sharpcarco okay cool. So with them being cleaned is nearly as good a solution as replacing? I’m in Georgia but coming up the coast this winter and would make a trip to you to get it fixed
Well I think you get a little bit better product with the cleaning because I have a special solution that I put on them to be a little bit resistant to the carbon buildup and you would be hard-pressed to not know that they are brand new if you looked on the inside of them the exterior of them may look a little bit dingy but the interior of them looks just as good as new. Without a piece of carbon anywhere and I would absolutely love it if you made a trip up here will make a video about that. So I would be happy to do it for you
@@sharpcarco I would love to get in direct contact with you. I’m very serious about this, you would be saving me from having to sell my van. Please let me know the best way to get in touch. Thank you
You can look me up on Facebook Clays ac and auto repair and send me a direct message,
Or you can Ken send me an email to thenewclayway@gmail.com
I don’t check emails as well. As I do my Facebook I’ll send you my cell phone number I just don’t give out personal contact Information over my channel
Thanks for the information, but now I got P2015 code
Yeah sorry to hear that but that’s because you have rail sensors and this procedure will not work for that you need to remove the Intakes clean them and or delete them… Then you’ll be happy motoring again
The resistor worked but now I have cel back on and code p2530-switching off intake port. It's as if it switched from a p2513 to the p2530. Any advise?
Yes if you don’t want that to happen repair at the correct way
@@sharpcarco nah this way is good. Customer is just sending this one down the road. They didn't wanna fork over the money to fix it the right way. Thanks for the video man.
What amp is the resistor ?
One I hold it up in the air in the video..
It might be in the description I’m not sure
So you can actually remove the obstructing flaps
For off-road use only according to the government, i’m doing an off-road vehicle right now.
I did this but the codes come back